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I 


TRAVELS 


IN 


NORTH  AMERICA 


DURING 


THE  YEARS  1834,  1835,  & 1836. 


INCLUDING 

A SUMMER  RESIDENCE  WITH  THE  PAWNEE  TRIBE  OF 
INDIANS,  IN  THE  REMOTE  PRAIRIES  OF  THE  MISSOURI, 
AND  A VISIT  TO  CUBA  AND  THE  AZORE  ISLANDS. 


BY 

THE  HON.  CHARLES  AUGUSTUS  MURRAY. 


“ Le  voyager  me  semble  un  exercise  profitable  : Tame  y a une  continuelle 
exereitation,  a remarquer  les  choses  incogniies  et  nouvelles  ; et  jene  s$ache 
pas  meilleure  escole  a faijonner  la  vie  que  de  luy  proposer  incessamment  la 
diversite  de  tant  d’autres  fantasies  et  usances,  et  luy  faire  gouter  une  si 
perpetuelle  variety  de  forme  de  nostre  nature.” — Essais  dt  Montaigne,  liv.  3, 
chap. ix. 


IN  TWO  VOLUMES, 
VOL.  I. 


NEW  YORK : 

HARPER  & BROTHERS,  82  CLIFF-STREET. 

1S39. 


DEDICATION 


TO 


THE  QUEEN. 


Madam, 

It  is  with  mingled  feelings  of  anxiety  and  gratitude 
that  I avail  myself  of  Your  Majesty’s  gracious  permission 
to  inscribe  to  you  the  following  Narrative.  It  pretends 
to  no  other  merit  than  that  of  truth ; and  its  most  ambi- 
tious object  will  be  obtained,  if  it  be  found  to  afford 
any  useful  or  interesting  information,  and  thus  to  beguile 
a leisure  hour  stolen  from  Your  Majesty’s  more  grave 
and  weighty  occupations. 

It  has  been  customary  to  clothe  a dedication  in  the 
language  of  panegyric : I will  not  presume  to  follow  the 
tempting  precedent.  Your  Majesty’s  qualities  will  be 
attested  by  an  Empire,  and  be  recorded  by  History. 
Nevertheless,  I trust  I may  venture,  unblamed,  to  ex- 
press, on  this  occasion,  my  earnest  desire,  and  my  heart- 
felt prayer,  that  your  reign  may  be  long  and  happy,  and 
that  Britain  may  hereafter  look  back  with  regret  and 
with  pride  on  a Sovereign,  who  blended  the  wisdom  and 
energy  of  Queen  Elizabeth  with  the  more  winning  and 
attractive  attributes  of  her  sex. 

I am  Madam, 

With  the  deepest  attachment  and  respect, 

Your  Majesty’s  dutiful  Subject  and  Servant, 

Charles  Augustus  Murray. 

Buckingham  Palace , 

Jane , 1839. 


PREFACE. 


It  is  very  seldom  that  the  journal  of  a traveller  appears 
before  the  public  unaccompanied  by  a prefatory  declara- 
tion that  it  was  not  his  original  intention  to  publish,  and 
that  he  has  been  reluctantly  induced  by  the  importunities 
of  his  friends  to  inform  the  world  of  the  extent  and  par- 
ticulars of  his  travel.  A statement  of  this  kind  usually 
meets  with  as  much  credit  as  the  laboured  impromptu 
of  a wit,  or  the  professions  of  diffidence  made  by  a 
practised  speaker  : as  it  is  a matter  in  which  the  public 
are  so  little  interested,  I am  surprised  that  authors  should 
take  so  much  pains  in  attempting  to  explain  it.  Most 
travellers  keep  a record  of  the  scenes  through  which 
they  pass,  without  having,  at  the  time,  any  definite  in- 
tentions as  to  publication,  leaving  their  after-decision  to 
be  determined  by  circumstances  ; this  is  generally  the 
case  with  persons  who  travel  without  any  scientific 
object,  and  is,  probably,  applicable  to  the  following 
narrative. 

Some  readers  may  be  disposed  to  inquire  why  I have 
allowed  two  or  three  years  to  elapse  between  the  writing 
and  the  publishing  of  this  journal.  I can  offer  no  other 
satisfaction  to  their  curiosity  than  by  informing  them, 
that  the  delay  has  been  occasioned  by  circumstances  of 
a private  and  domestic  nature.  The  careless  arrange- 
ment of  materials,  in  these  pages,  will  furnish,  I am 
afraid,  more  than  abundant  evidence  of  the  fact,  that  the 

A* 


VI 


PREFACE. 


manuscript  has  been  untouched  during  the  interval,  and 
that  the  original  copy  has  been  placed  in  the  hands  of 
my  publisher,  with  such  few  verbal  corrections  and 
additions  as  my  present  occupations  have  permitted  me 
to  make. 

As  the  state  of  the  Canadas  has  excited,  of  late,  so 
much  attention,  I feel  it  my  duty  (in  order  to  prevent 
the  disappointment  of  those  who  might  expect  some  in- 
formation regarding  them  in  these  volumes)  to  state  that 
my  tour  did  not  extend  through  those  extensive  and 
interesting  provinces. 


CONTENTS 


OP 

THE  FIRST  VOLUME. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Embark  at  Liverpool. — Cabin  and  Steerage  Passengers. — Whimsical 
Distress  of  a Military  Captain. — A heavy  Sea. — Portuguese  Man-of- 
war.—  A False  Alarm. — May  Morning  at  Sea. — A Leak  sprung  : our 
perilous  Situation, — Reflections  under  Danger. — Agony  of  mind  in 
one  of  the  Passengers. — Men  at  the  Pumps. — Increase  of  Danger. — 
The  Cargo  hove  overboard. — Merciful  Dispensation  of  the  Creator. — 
Make  for  the  Azores. — Dreadful  Night  and  gloomy  Morning. — Pre- 
paration for  the  worst. — The  Author’s  providential  Escape. — Offices 
of  Devotion. — Resignation  of  the  female  Passengers.  A Sail  in 
Sight. — Departure  of  some  of  the  Passengers  in  the  Lady  Raffles, 
bound  for  London. — Threatened  Mutiny. — Resolute  Conduct  of  a 
young  Passenger. — Arrival  off  Fayal.  ....  Page  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

Approach  to  Fayal. — Peak  of  Pico. — Reception  by  the  British  Consul. 
— The  Town  : its  declining  State. — Politeness  of  the  People. — Sin- 
gular Custom. — Inauguration  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress  of  Fayal. 
— The  Fayal  Authorities. — Agriculture. — Donkeys. — Volcanic  For* 
mation  of  the  Island. — Market  Days. — Cruelty  to  an  Animal. — De- 
lightful Climate. — Rock  Pigeons. — A quaint  old  Hunter. — Perilous 
Ascent. — A good  Shot. — The  American  Consul  and  his  Daughters. — 
Beautiful  Orange  Garden. — Exquisite  Scenery. — Evening  Parties. — 
Absurd  Custom. — Successful  Attempt  to  reform  it.  . . . 26 

CHAPTER  III. 

A Marine  Excursion. — Novel  Mode  of  Landing. — Dinner  with  Captain 
L. — A Portuguese  Ecclesiastic. — Latin  Conversation  with  him. — 
Pico  Wine. — Excursion  resumed. — Disagreeable  Quarters. — A 
Storm. — Providential  Escape  — Velas. — Volcanic  Craters. — A buried 
Church. — Unlucky  Search  for  Game. — Female  Costume. — Fuel. — 
Return  to  Fayal. — The  Waverly  again  ready  for  Sea. — Serious  Af- 
fray— Its  Consequences. — A Street  Squabble. — Cowardly  Threats. 
— Leave  Fayal.  .........  36 


Yin 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

A dead  Calm. — Scant  Allowance  of  Provision  during  the  Voyage. — A 
Whale  shot. — Anchor  off  Sandy  Hook. — The  Quarantine  Station. — 
View  in  the  Narrows. — Variety  of  Shipping. — Quarantine  Hospitals. 
— New  York. — Iced  Punch. — Land  at  New  York. — An  American 
Table  d ’ hote.-  Oppressive  Heat. — Episcopalian  Church. — Costume 
of  American  Ladies. — Visit  to  Rockaway. — American  Omnibus. — 
Desolate  Marsh. — Reception  by  Sir  C.  Vaughan. — Rockaway. — Mint 
Julep. — The  celebrated  Compounder  of  this  Nectar.  . Page  50 

CHAPTER  V. 

Expedition  up  the  Hudson  River. — Scene  of  the  Death  of  Hamilton. — 
Cooper,  the  American  Novelist. — Scenery  of  West  Point. — Nursery 
for  the  American  Army. — The  Cadets. — Albany. — The  Patroon. — 
Railroad  to  Saratoga. — Watering  Places. — Mineral  Water. — Ballston. 
— The  Trenton  Falls. — An  Extra  Exclusive. — The  Prison  at  Auburn. 
— Miserable  Appearance  of  the  Prisoners. — Geneva. — Canandaigua. 
— Eminent  Scottish  Agriculturist. — Genesee. — Mr.  W. — Fertile 
Meadows. — Falls  of  Niagara 58 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Embark  on  Lake  Ontario. — Toronto. — Reception  by  the  Governor. — 
Lake  of  The  Thousand  Islands. — The  Cholera  at  Montreal  and  Que- 
bec.— Journey  towards  Lake  Champlain. — Gloomy  Road. — Burling- 
ton.— Students  in  the  College  of  that  Town. — An  Obliging  Land- 
lord.— Road  to  Montpelier. — The  Camel’s  Hump. — American  Libe- 
rality.— Accommodations  at  the  Taverns. — John  Bull  a bad  Traveller. 
— Hanover. — Concord. — A Criminal  Trial  in  this  Town. — Amoskeag. 
— Exchange  of  Steeds. — Lowell:  its  Lucrative  Trade. — Approach 
to  Boston. — Arrival  in  that  Town. — The  Tremont  House. — Mr. 
Webster. — Tone  of  Conversation  in  Boston.  . . . .70 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Return  to  New  York. — Heavy  Fog. — Exploring  Party. — Society  in 
New  York. — Departure  for  Philadelphia. — Exhibition  of  Wild  Beasts 
in  Bordentown. — Arrival  in  Philadelphia. — A lineal  Descendant  of 
William  Wallace. — Arrival  at  Washington. — British  Legation. — 
Tour  to  the  West  of  Virginia. — Wretched  Roads. — A Disaster. — A 
Negro  Samaritan. — Friendly  Landlord. — Arrival  at  Leesburgh. — 
Search  for  Game. — Capture  of  a large  Gobbler. — Fruit  called  Per- 
simmon.— Remarkable  Duel. — Romney. — Excursion  in  pursuit  of 
Deer. — American  Agriculturist  and  Hunter. — Invidious  Comparison. 
—Hospitable  Laird. — Republican  Doctrine  of  Equality  : ludicrous 
Anomalies  arising  from  this — Survey  of  various  Tracts  of  Land. — 
Progress  of  Agriculture. — Excursion  to  the  Glades  of  Alleghany  : 
Scenery  : the  Inhabitants. — Private  Entertainment. — Mr.  Chisholm. 
— Recollections  of  Scotland. — Scotch  Settlers. — Field  Sports  in  the 
Alleghanies 81 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Return  to  Washington. — The  Capital. — The  Senate.— The  Ladies’ 
Gallery. — Debate  on  the  relations  with  France. — Mr.  Clay. — Mr. 
Webster. — Public  Demonstration  on  the  Death  of  a Citizen. — At- 
tempt upon  the  Life  of  the  President : his  miraculous  Escape. — Mr. 
Calhoun. — Mount  Vernon. — Observations  on  Washington’s  Tomb. 
— Singular  Occurrence  illustrative  of  the  State  of  Society  in  Lou- 
isiana.— Melancholy  Appearance  of  the  City  of  Washington  : its 
Site. — Method  of  assessing  its  Inhabitants. — Absence  of  local  attach- 
ment in  American  Agriculturists  contrasted  with  the  Scottish  Love 
of  Country Page  98 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Quit  Washington  for  a Tour  in  Virginia. — Voyage  down  the  Potomac 
in  the  Champion  Steamer. — Land  Journey  to  Fredericksburgh. — 
Wretched  Road. — Arrival  at  Fredericksburgh. — The  Town. — House 
of  Judge  Coalter  : hospitable  reception  by  that  Gentleman. — Writers 
in  the  Public  Press. — Journey  from  Fredericksburgh  to  Richmond. — 
Perpetual  Danger  of  being  upset. — Arrival  at  Richmond. — The 
Town:  its  Society. — Judge  Marshall : his  House. — Ladies  of  Rich- 
mond.— Embark  on  the  James  River. — Intermarriages  of  the  Resi- 
dents on  its  Shores — Plantations  cultivated  by  Slaves. — Treatment 
of  the  Slaves. — Necessity  for  corporal  Punishment. — Expense  of 
keeping  Slaves. — The  Negro  Character. — Domestic  and  farm-labour- 
ing Slaves. — Overseers. — Marriage  of  Slaves  : their  Religion. — 
Agriculture  on  the  Banks  of  James  River. — Law  of  Primogeniture. 
— Embark  in  the  Patrick  Henry  Steamer. — Region  visited  by  Sir 
Walter  Raleigh. — Cruelty  of  early  Settlers. — Jamestown. — Indif- 
ference of  the  American  People  to  sepulchral  Relics. — Ruins  of  the 
former  Governor’s  Palace. — College  endowed  by  William  and  Mary. 
— New  Fortification  at  Old  Point. — Arrival  at  Norfolk. — Bay  of  the 
Chesapeake. — Return  to  Washington.  . . , . .112 

CHAPTER  X. 

Morning  Ride. — Delightful  Season. — Shrubs  and  Flowers. — The  Mock- 
ing-bird. — Visit  to  a Flower  Garden. — Preparations  for  a Tour  in 
the  West. — Parting  from  Friends. — Leave  Washington  for  Balti- 
more.— Fearful  Ravages  of  the  Cholera. — Incident  in  the  Museum  at 
Baltimore. — Arrival  at  Philadelphia. — Start  for  Pittsburgh. — Lovely 
Prospect. — Lancaster  Vale. — German  Settlers. — The  Susquehannah. 
—The  Juniata. — Track  Boats. — A Newspaper  Reporter. — Inquisi- 
tive Western  Traveller. — Walk  to  Holydaysburgh. — Nocturnal  An- 
noyance.— Passage  across  the  Alleghanies. — Arrival  at  Johnstown. — 
The  River  Conimah. — Railroad. — The  Alleghany  River. — Pitts- 
burgh.— The  Market. — Mr.  Rapp’s  Settlement.  . . . 130 


X 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Embark  on  the  Ohio. — Banks  of  the  River. — Wheeling. — Remark- 
able Indian  Mound. — Risings  of  the  River. — Arrival  at  Cincin- 
nati.— The  Town. — The  Museum.— Manufacture. — Mrs.  Trollope’s 
Bazaar — her  erroneous  Statements. — Prosperity  of  Cincinnati. — 
Hospitality  of  its  Inhabitants. — American  Servants. — The  Cholera. 
— Contrast  between  the  States  of  Ohio  and  Kentucky. — Character 
of  the  Kentuckians. — Brutal  Method  of  Fighting.  , Page  144 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Leave  Cincinnati  for  Louisville. — Reminiscences. — Louisville. — Re- 
publican Incongruity. — Swearing  in  the  Western  States. — Start  for 
Lexington. — Beautiful  Scenery. — Curious  Sermon. — Arrival  at  Lex- 
ington.— Meeting  with  Miss  Martineau. — General  Shelby’s  Farm. 
— Situation  of  Lexington. — Its  public  Institutions. — System  of 
Education  in  America. — Lunatic  Asylum. — Evening  Parties. — Mu- 
sical Soiree. — A Serenade. — Mr.  Clay. — Return  to  Louisville. — 
Embark  for  Saint  Louis. — Passage  down  the  Ohio. — Robbers’  Cave. 
— The  “ Father  of  Waters.” 155 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Situation  of  St.  Louis. — The  Catholic  new  Church. — General  Clarke. — 
Embark  for  Fort  Leavenworth. — Requisites  for  a Tour  on  the  Prai- 
rie.— The  Missouri — Rapidity  of  its  Stream. — Islands. — Fatal  Case 
of  Cholera. — Changeful  Climate. — Floating  Obstructions. — Settle- 
ments on  the  Missouri. — Scarcity  of  Game. — Gigantic  Trees. — Fer- 
tility of  the  Soil. — Precarious  Navigation. — -Magnificent  Thunder- 
storm.— State  of  Health  on  board  the  Steam-boat. — Tedious  Progress. 
Mouth  of  Osage  River. — Indian  Painting. — Town  of  Booneville. — 
Price  of  Provisions. — Narrow  Escape. — Village  of  Liberty. — Outfit 
for  the  Prairie. — A small  Prairie. — Swampy  Wood. — Reception  at 
Fort  Leavenworth — Prospect  from  the  Heights  in  its  Neighbourhood. 
— Indian  Tribes — Commemoration  of  the  4th  of  July. — Pawnee 
Visiters. — Indian  Chorus. — Picturesque  Scene. — Arrangements  to 
accompany  the  Pawnees  to  their  Nation.  . . . .167 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Pawnee  chiefs  with  whom  I started. — Leave  Fort  Leavenworth. — Roll- 
ing Prairie. — Halting  Place. — Loss  of  Horses. — Flock  of  Perroquets. 
— Our  stray  Horses. — Indian  Appetite. — Accidents  by  the  Way. — 
Overtake  the  Pawnee  Deputation. — Esculent  Roots. — Deer-stalking 
in  the  Prairie. — A Misfortune. — Cross  the  Great  Nimahaw  River. — 
Party  in  Search  of  Elk. — Rejoin  the  Camp. — Tired  Horse. — False 
Alarm  of  Chill  and  Fever. — The  Kanzas  River. — My  Dog  killed  and 
eaten. — Fatiguing  Travelling. — Friendly  Reception. — Effect  of  whis- 
key on  the  Indians. — Indian  Village. — Occupations  of  the  Men,  Wo- 
men, and  Children. — The  old  Chief. — Buffalo  Meat. — Order  of 
March. — Pawnee  Summer  Lodge. — Medicine. — First  Night  in  the 
Pawnee  Lodge. — Dogs. 183 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


CHAPTER  XY. 

Lavatory  in  the  Prairie. — Picturesque  Scene. — A “ Brave.” — Quarrel 
with  him. — Desolate  Prairie.— Prairie  Dogs.— Owls  and  Rattlesnakes. 
— First  View  of  Buffalo. — Chase  of  Buffalo. — Indian  Butchery. — 
Horses  stolen  by  the  Ricaras. — Indian  Method  of  Horse-stealing. — 
Discussion  as  to  the  expediency  of  making  Reprisals. — Present  of  a 
Buffalo  Robe. — Indian  Character. — A Feast. — Indian  Curiosity.  203 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Indian  Women. — Children. — Nursery  Discipline. — Girls. — Courtship. 
— Marriage. — A Missionary. — Occupation  and  Labours  of  married 
Women. — Degradation  of  the  half-civilized  Tribes. — Education  and 
Life  of  Indian  Men. — An  Indian  Dandy. — His  elaborate  Toilet  — 
His  Effeminacy. — Game  of  the  Javelin. — Indian  Courage.  . 215 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Ceremonies  attendant  on  the  Buffalo  Chase. — Adventures  with  Buffalo. 
— Number  of  Beasts  slain. — Night  Attack  of  the  Shiennes. — The  Con- 
flict.— War  Songs. — A Council. — Religion. — Great  Spirits  and  other 
Deities. — Religious  Ceremonies. — Notions  of  Futurity. — Months  and 
Years. — Office  of  Soldiers. — A “ Cerne,”  or  “ Surround.” — Buffalo 
Hunt. — Preparation  of  Buffalo  Skins. — Strange  Fuel. — March  re- 
sumed.— Otoe  Chief. — Deadly  Feud  between  two  Brothers. — Great 
Medicine  Feast. — Impromptu  Oration. — Indian  Eloquence. — Grace 
before  Meat. — Rapid  Feeding. — Method  of  Invitation  to  a Feast. — 
Contrasted  Temperature. — Change  in  the  Aspect  of  the  Country.  227 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

A Stampedo. — Number  of  Horses  in  the  Encampment. — Moccasins. — 
Prickly  Pears  : Feet  wounded  by  them. — Indian  Surgery. — Improvi- 
dent Inactivity. — Desire  to  return  to  the  Civilized  World. — Indian 
Extortion. — Medical  Faculty. — Mode  of  Practice. — Stroll  after 
Nightfall. — Narrow  Escape. — Scarcity  of  Water. — Haitans. — Buf- 
falo Hunt. — Dinner  on  raw  Buffalo  Meat. — Long  Shot  at  an  Ante- 
lope.— Advantage  of  the  Bow  over  the  Rifle  in  Buffalo  Hunting. — 
Value  of  the  Buffalo  to  the  Western  Tribes. — An  Accident. — Extra- 
ordinary Sport. — Bird  Nesting. — My  Library. — Thoughts  of  Home. 
— Herd  of  Buffalo. 243 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Camp  moved. — Medicine  Council. — Preparation  for  Hunting. — Martial 
Appearance  of  the  Chief : his  Costume. — The  Author’s  Hunting- 
dress. — Conversation  with  the  Chief. — Equipment  of  the  Warriors. 
— Forced  March. — Attack  the  Herds. — Dangerous  Conflict. — Sorry 
Steed. — Unhorsed  Indian. — A young  >Buil  shot. — A Hunter’s  Meal. 
— Suspicious  Intruders. — Perplexing  Situation. — A Friend  in  Need. 
— Return  to  the  Camp 262 


CONTENTS. 


Xil 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Medicine  Ceremonies. — Instance  of  ungovernable  Temper  and  Cruelty 
in  a young  Indian. — Indian  Horse-dealers. — Bargaining  Anecdotes. 
— Hiring  a Guide. — Knavery  of  the  Great  Chief. — Hunting  Party  of 
Delawares  and  Shawnees. — Conversation  with  them.— Dislike  of  the 
Pawnees  to  their  new  Guests.— Pride  of  the  Delawares. — Unequal 
Conflict. — Skilful  Retreat.^Delaware  and  Shawnee  Languages. — 
Departure  of  the  Visiters Page  277 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Interview  with  the  Great  Chief. — Telescope  regained. — Stock  of  Pro- 
visions for  the  Journey. — Indian  Knavery. — Disinterested  Genero- 
sity.— Exchange  of  Horses. — Message  from  the  Great  Chief. — A 
“ Talk.” — Invitation  to  the  Great  Chief. — Presents  made  to  him. — 
Want  of  Cleanliness  among  the  Pawnees. — Splendid  Daybreak. — 
Valedictory  Speeches. — A vicious  Horse. — Journey  homeward  com- 
menced.— Herd  of  Buffalo. — Successful  Shot. — Evening  Camp. — 
Musquitoes. — Serious  Accident. — Defection  of  our  Guide. — Return 
to  the  Pawnees. — Repulsive  Scene. — Indian  Mourning. — Reception 
at  the  Lodge  of  Sa-nl-tsa-rish 288 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Commission  intrusted  to  the  Canadian  Interpreter. — Arrangement  with 
two  Indian  Guides. — Pae-tae-lae-cha’rd — Indications  of  his  Malignity. 
— Leave  the  Pawnees. — Harangue  of  the  Guide. — Dinner. — March 
resumed. — Fearful  Storm. — Indian  Superstition. — Morning  after  the 
Storm. — Ramble  in  Search  of  Game. — Anteiope. — A narrow  Escape. 
— An  Indian  Hunter. — Conversation  with  him. — Lose  my  Party. — 
Visit  to  an  Indian  Camp. — My  Reception  there.  . . . 303 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Unpleasant  Predicament. — Set  forth  in  search  of  my  Party. — Night 
Wanderings. — Rejoin  my  Friends  — Journey  resumed. — Evening 
Camp. — Prairie  Wolves. — Scotch  Servant. — The  American  Lad. — 
Conversation  with  the  Guide. — Enormous  Rattlesnake. — Indian 
Manoeuvre. — Danger  from  Snakes. — An  Antelope  Shot. — A Bath. — 
Our  Feast. — Meeting  with  Pawnee  Hunters. — Their  Conference 
with  our  Guides — Consultation  with  my  Companions. — Desertion 
of  the  Guides. — Difficulties  of  our  Situation. — Commencement  of 
my  Office  as  Guide.  ........  315 


TRAVELS 


IN 

THE  UNITED  STATES,  etc. 


CHAPTER  I. 


Embark  at  Liverpool. — Cabin  and  Steerage  Passengers. — Whimsical  Dis- 
tress of  a Military  Captain. — A heavy  Sea. — Portuguese  Man-of-war. — 
A False  Alarm. — May  Morning  at  Sea. — A Leak  sprung  : our  perilous 
Situation. — Reflections  under  Danger. — Agony  of  mind  in  one  of  the 
Passengers — Men  at  the  Pumps. — Increase  of  Danger. — The  Cargo 
hove  overboard. — Merciful  Dispensation  of  the  Creator. — Make  for  the 
Azores. — Dreadful  Night  and  gloomy  Morning. — Preparation  for  the 
worst. — The  Author’s  providential  Escape. — Offices  of  Devotion. — 
Resignation  of  the  female  Passengers. — A Sail  in  Sight. — Departure 
of  some  of  the  Passengers  in  the  Lady  Raffles,  bound  for  London. — 
Threatened  Mutiny. — Resolute  Conduct  of  a young  Passenger. — 
Arrival  off  Fayal. 


On  the  18th  of  April  1834, 1 embarked  at  Liverpool, 
on  board  the  American  ship  Waveriy,  bound  for  New 
York.  Although  not  one  of  those  regular  packets 
which  have  attained  so  just  a celebrity  for  their  beauty, 
comfort,  and  sailing  qualities,  she  was  a fine  new  vessel 
of  530  tons  ; and  as  I was  accompanied  by  an  admiral 
in  the  British  Navy  when  I secured  my  berth,  I con- 
sidered myself  thereby  justified  in  my  selection. 

We  sailed  at  5 a.  m.  with  a sleady  light  breeze  from 
the  E.  S.  E.  The  cabin  passengers  consisted  of  three 
ladies  with  nurses,  maids,  &c.,  three  or  four  young 
gentlemen,  who  were  going  to  settle  in  Canada,  an 
architect,  a captain  in  the  army,  a German  wine-mer- 
chant and  his  son,  and  a dissenting  minister.  About  a 
hundred  and  fifty  emigrants  of  the  poorest  class,  mostly 
Irish,  were  in  the  steerage,  and  I never  saw  a more 
ragged  squalid  assemblage  than  that  which  now  thron- 
ged the  deck  of  the  Waveriy.  Poor  fellows  ! few  of 

B 


14 


PORTUGUESE  MAN  OF  WAR. 


them  seemed  to  have  friends  or  kindred  on  the  shore 
that  we  were  leaving,  and  they  sat  huddled  together 
round  the  long  boat  and  the  hen-coops,  while  some  of 
the  sailors  and  passengers  were  waving  hands  and 
handkerchiefs  amid  cheers  for  our  safe  voyage,  and  the 
thousand  farewell  devices  invented  by  the  ingenuity  of 
gdfection. 

*The  breeze  freshened  from  the  eastward,  and  bore  us 
merrily  down  the  Channel  : the  ship  bounded  forward 
under  a press  of  canvass  ; while  the  light  spray  dashed 
from  her  bows,  and  the  line  of  foam  in  her  wake,  joined 
to  a motion  too  perceptible  to  be  unfelt  by  landsmen, 
soon  told  us  that  we  were  on  the  open  sea.  On  the 
morning  of  the  19th,  I heard  a voice  in  the  next  cabin 
to  mine,  singing  with  a faint  attempt  at  cheerfulness  ; 
opening  my  door  to  catch  the  air  and  words,  I discov- 
ered that  the  vocalist  was  the  military  captain,  who  was 
endeavoring  to  cheat  himself  into  good  spirits  by  sing- 
ing “ I’m  rather  sick,”  “ I feel  very  queer,”  to  the  tunes 
of  “ Home,  sweet  home,”  “ I’d  be  a Butterfly,”  and  other 
prevalent  airs. 

For  a week,  the  wind  continued  favorable,  and  we 
made  an  average  way  of  eight  or  nine  knots  an  hour; 
on  the  26th  it  freshened  so  much  that  our  top-gallant- 
sails  were  taken  in  and  the  topsails  reefed.  A heavy 
sea  “ got  up,”  and  most  of  the  passengers  (myself  inclu- 
ded) were  afflicted  with  that  oppressive  nausea  which 
the  worthy  captain  described  in  the  above  pathetic 
strains : the  ship  rolled  heavily,  and  six  water-casks, 
which  had  been  faultily  secured  in  the  steerage,  broke 
loose,  were  instantly  staved  in,  and  drenched  the  unfor- 
tunate steerage  passengers,  causing  no  little  alarm  and 
confusion  among  them. 

On  this  day  I saw  for  the  first  time  that  beautiful  little 
wanderer  of  the  ocean  called  by  the  sailors  “ the  Portu- 
guese man-of-war :”  he  spreads  his  light  sail  in  all 
weathers,  and  delights  to  float  lazily  in  a calm ; but  it  is 
when  an  angry  restless  sea  is  lit  up  by  a fitful  sunshine, 
that  he  is  seen  to  most  advantage.  He  dances  so  buoy- 
antly on  the  crest  of  the  waves ; and  the  transparent 
filmy  wings  with  which  he  sails  along,  give  back  so 


FALSE  ALARM. 


15 


many  varied  colours  to  the  sun,  that  few  of  the  tiny  in- 
habitants of  air  or  earth  are  so  pretty  to  look  upon.* 

On  the  27th  and  two  following  days  it  blew  very 
hard,  and  the  wind  having  shifted  to  the  N.  W.  we  were 
obliged  to  lie-to  for  many  hours,  An  accident  occurred 
which  was  productive  of  temporary  alarm.  I was 
walking  on  the  quarter-deckt  with  the  captain  about 
mid-day,  when  a cry  arose  that  the  “ ship  was  on  lire  !” 
The  ladies’  cabin  was  filled  with  smoke  accompanied 
with  a strong  smell  of  burning  wood  ; one  of  its  fair 
tenants  fainted  away,  another  screamed,  and  all  jumped 
from  their  berths  and  sofas  in  confusion  and  affright. — 
Captain  Phillips  was  preparing  for  a descent  into  the 
lower  deck  to  examine,  and  make  the  requisite  exer- 
tions, when  he  suddenly  recollected  the  employment  of 
some  sailors  astern  ; and,  hastening  thither,  we  found 
a tar  busily  employed  in  burning  a hole  in  the  ear  of  a 
bucket  with  a red-hot  marlingspike,  the  smoke  and 
smell  of  which  operation  passed  directly  through  the 
stern-windows  into  the  ladies’  cabin,  and  occasioned  the 
alarm  above  mentioned.  It  was  of  short  duration,  but 
the  first  impression  caused  by  the  cry  of  fire,  when 
there  is  a heavy  .sea  running,  and  no  land  within  a 
thousand  miles,  is  not  by  any  means  agreeable,  and  I 
confess  that  I breathed  more  freely  when  the  doubt 
was  resolved  by  the  old  sailor  and  his  hot  iron.  We 
might  feel  disposed  to  quarrel  with  that  rapidity  of 
thought  which  thus  induces  man  to  invest  smoke  with 
the  terrors  of  fire,  were  it  not  for  the  compensating 
power  of  mind  which  also  enables  him  to  catch  glim- 
merings of  hope  where  reason  and  experience  would 
despair. 

* The  Portuguese  man-of-war  is  of  the  “ Medusa”  species,  and 
its  proper  name  in  natural  history  is  “ Physalia.”  When  taken  out 
of  the  water  it  is  very  small,  and  covered  with  poisonous  prickles, 
producing  on  the  skin  (if  carelessly  handled)  an  irritation  similar  to 
that  caused  by  a nettle. 

t I deprecate  the  criticism  of  nautical  readers,  and  beg  to  inform 
them,  that  I use  synonymously  “ quarter-deck”and  “podp,”  in  the 
belief  that  (although  these  may  be  technical  errors)  my  meaning 
will  be  intelligible. 


16 


MAY  MORNING  AT  SEA. 


The  morning1  of  the  1st  of  May  was  bright  and  cheer- 
ful, the  clouds  were  broken  into  light  fleecy  masses, 
which  now  obscured,  now  revealed  the  rays  of  the  sun, 
with  that  changeful  alternation  which  gives  to  the 
“ soote  season”  its  well-deserved  character  for  life,  and 
youth,  and  mirth,  on  which  every  poet,  of  ancient  and 
of  modern  times,  has  exhausted  the  richest  treasures 
of  his  fancy  : but  for'  us,  in  the  Waverly,  there  were 
no  opening  blossoms,  “no  carolling  larks,  no  new-born 
flocks  in  rustic  dance,”  to  usher  in  the  “ flowery  May 
and  as  I looked  over  the  ship’s  side  on  the  deep  green 
waste  of  waters,  busy  thought  carried  me  back  to  the 
smiling  valleys  of  my  father-land,  and  even  Jack  in  the 
Green  and  Maid  Marian,  with  the  swarthy  imps  dan- 
cing round  them  in  the  streets  of  London,  were,  for  a 
time,  remembered  with  regret.  The  evening  closed 
in  without  any  indication  of  storm  or  danger. 

About  7 o’clock  p.  m.  1 was  whiling  away  my  time 

at  a game  of  drafts  with  a passenger,  when  Mr. 

(who  being  the  only  person  in  our  party  who  had  made 
the  voyage  to  New  York,  was  a kind  of  self-appointed 
cabin-oracle  as  to  weather,  longitude,  &c.)  appeared  in 
the  cabin ; I felt  a convulsive  movement  of  his  hand 
as  he  laid  it  on  my  arm,  and  on  looking  up,  I observed 
that  his  face  was  white  and  haggard  with  agitation  ; at 
length  it  found  utterance  in  the  following  words : — 
u Sir,  the  ship  has  sprung  a leak  !”  I defy  any  writer 
to  describe  exactly,  or  any  reader  to  understand,  the 
first  sensations  occasioned  by  an  announcement  of  this 
nature,  unless  he  has  experienced  them  ; for  each  suc- 
ceeding suggestion,  as  the  mind  glanced  over  it  with 
the  rapidity  of  lightning,  only  seemed  to  magnify  the 
peril  of  our  situation,  and  almost  to  shut  out  hope  ; we 
were  about  1200  miles  from  Liverpool  and  much  more 
distant  from  New  York,  a high  sea  running,  and  only 
provided  with  boats  which,  in  a calm,  might  contain 
one  fourth  of  the  number  on  board. 

The  incessant  creaking  of  the  pumps,  and  the  voice 
of  the  mate  urging  the  men  to  continued  exertion, 

showed  that  Mr. ’s  information  was  but  too  correct. 

In  answer  to  my  further  inquiry  he  told  me  that  there 


A LEAK  SPRUNG, 


17 


was  much  water  in  the  hold,  and  that  as  far  as  he  could 
learn  it  had  neither  diminished  nor  gained  ground 
since  the  pumps  began  to  work.  Here  was  at  least  some 
ground  for  hope,  so  I intreated  him  not  to  communicate 
the  fact  to  the  ladies  who  were  all  in  the  after  cabin, 
but  to  wait  until  morning,  when,  perhaps,  some  favor- 
able change  might  occur  : he  acquiesced  in  this  view ; 
but  having  gone  into  the  ladies’  cabin  to  speak  to  his 
wife,  a shrill  scream  from  within  soon  apprized  me  that 
either  his  face  or  his  tongue  had  told  all. 

In  a few  minutes  I went  on  deck  and  saw  Captain 
Phillips  alone  on  the  poop.  Being  well  aware  how  ilk 
timed  and  how  hateful  to  all  seamen,  under  such  cir- 
cumstances, are  the  inquiries  of  passengers  respecting 
u danger”  and  such  particulars,  I merely  said,  u Cap- 
tain, can  I be  of  any  use  ?”  The  answer  being,  “ Thank 
you  sir,  not  to-night,”  I went  again  below  and  retired 
to  my  own  cabin. 

There  are  seasons  when  the  mind,  shut  out  from  all 
intercourse  with  the  world  around,  communes  with  it- 
self and  with  the  Almighty  who  formed  it.  When  these 
meditations  are  aroused  and  quickened  by  the  prospect 
of  death,  of  a death,  too,  where  the  spirits  and  the  frame 
are  not  excited  by  exertion,  they  embrace  the  past,  the 
present,  and  the  future,  with  a comprehensiveness  and 
rapidity  almost  supernatural ; conscience  wakes  from 
the  drowsy  bed  where  it  has  been  too  long  a sluggard, 
and  memory,  as  if  touched  by  TthuriePs  spear,  starts 
into  gigantic  power  and  energy.  Together,  they  draw 
back  the  veil  from  scenes  long  past  and  long  forgotten, 
and  present  a picture  for  the  soul  to  contemplate,  so 
wide  in  its  range,  so  minute  in  its  details,  so  terribly  faith- 
ful in  its  representations,  that  she  would  turn  from  it  in 
dread  and  despair,  were  not  the  horizon  lighted  up  by  the 
sunshine  of  mercy  unspeakably  bright  and  boundless  in 
extent. 

Of  the  thoughts  that  crowded  on  my  own  mind,  du- 
ring the  first  watches  of  this  night,  it  is  not  fitting  that 
I should  say  anything.  I will  only  record  with- grati- 
tude that  before  midnight  I fell  fast  asleep,  and  when  I 
awoke  at  the  usual  hour  on  the  following  morning,  I 

b* 


18 


MEN  AT  THE  PUMPS. 


might  have  thought  the  scene  of  the  preceding  evening 
a dream,  had  not  the  continued  and  ceaseless  creaking 
of  the  pumps  assured  me  of  its  reality. 

On  reaching  the  deck,  I learned  that  the  leak  was 
much  in  the  same  state,  and  that  the  incessant  pumping 
throughout  the  night  had  not  diminished  the  water  in 
the  hold.  Few  of  the  passengers  appeared  at  breakfast, 
and,  among  those  few,  but  little  conversation  passed. — 
I could  not  help  feeling  for  the  irrepressible  agony  of 

mind  evinced  by  H , the  German  wine-merchant, 

who  had  crossed  the  Atlantic  to  bring  over  his  son,  a 
fine  boy  of  twelve  years  old.  From  my  speaking  to 
him  in  his  native  language  he  was  more  communica- 
tive with  me  than  with  the  other  passengers,  and  taking 
my  arm  in  the  greatest  agitation  he  said,  “ Is  it  not  too 
hard  ? I care  not  for  myself,  but  my  poor  boy,  whom 
I have  with  such  difficulty  separated  from  his  mother, 
must  I see  him  drowned  before  my  eyes  ?”  I endea- 
voured to  comfort  him  with  hopes  which  I did  not  en- 
tertain very  strongly  myself. 

In  such  emergencies,  exertion  is  both  a duty  and  a 
resource : and,  hastening  on  deck,  I found  the  captain 
busy  in  dividing  all  the  able-bodied  men  on  board  into 
“ gangs,”  who  were  to  work  the  pumps  successively, 
each  taking  an  hour’s  labor  at  a time  : every  gang  con- 
tained eight  men,  four  of  whom  rested  and  worked  al- 
ternately for  an  hour,  when  another  was  called  to  re- 
place them ; by  thus  dividing  the  fatigue  among  so 
many,  it  was  hoped  that  we  might  hold  out  until  we 
reached  land ; and  as  the  wind  blew  strong  from  the 
west,  and  the  ship  was  found  to  make  more  water  when 
beating  against  the  sea  than  when  going  free,  the  cap- 
tain, directing  his  whole  efforts  to  preserve  life,  put  her 
about,  and  made  all  sail  for  the  nearest  port  of  Europe. 

Meantime  I threw  off  my  coat,  jumped  down  among 
the  Paddies  on  deck,  joined  myself  to  a “ gang,”  and 
pumped  away  lustily,  endeavoring  to  keep  up  their  spi- 
rits, and  stimulate  their  exertions.  The  younger  pas- 
sengers in  the  cabin  did  so  likewise,  and  the  unanimity 
and  good  humour  with  which  the  labour  was  performed 
contributed  much  to  banish  the  recollection  of  our  dan- 


CARGO  HOVE  OVERBOARD. 


19 


ger,  and  the  gloomy  thoughts  which  it  would  otherwise 
have  engendered. 

All  our  efforts,  however,  although  continued  without 
intermission  for  twenty-four  hours,  seemed  likely  to 
prove  unavailing,  for  on  the  morning  of  the  3rd,  the 
water  in  the  hold  was  found  to  have  gained  upon  us 
considerably,  and  of  course  the  chance  of  our  founder- 
ing was  proportionably  increased.  Captain  Phillips  no 
longer  hesitated  to  put  in  practice  an  expedient  which 
he  had  conscientiously  deferred  as  long  as  possible, 
namely,  to  ease  the  ship  by  heaving  over  half  her  cargo. 
The  leak  had  not  been  discovered,  but  he  believed  it 
to  be  owing  to  the  starting  of  one  of  her  timbers,  occa- 
sioned by  the  unequal  pressure  of  pig-iron,  a great 
quantity  of  which  was  stowed  away  in  the  lower  hold. 
Under  this  belief  he  expected  much  advantage  from  re- 
lieving the  vessel  of  a portion  of  this  iron,  which  is  well 
known  to  be  the  most  stiff,  unyielding,  and  dangerous 
cargo  that  a ship,  so  circumstanced,  could  have  on 
board.*  Here  then  was  opened  a new  field  for  exer- 
tion, and  new  food  for  hope  ; the  main-hatch  was  taken 
off,  and  gangs  were  again  selected  to  hand  the  cargo 
from  the  hold,  and  heave  it  overboard  : in  this  also  I 
took  my  share,  and  can  aver  that  it  was  most  laborious 
work,  rendered  more  so  by  the  rolling  of  the  ship,  and 
the  slipperiness  of  the  deck  which  was  constantly  flood- 
ed with  water : as  the  heaviest  goods  (iron  and  cased 
tin)  were  near  the  bottom  of  the  hold,  we  were  obliged, 
before  we  could  reach  them,  to  heave  over  seventy  or 
eighty  enormous  crates  of  earthenware,  and  they  being 
too  ponderous  to  be  raised  over  the  bulwarks  (without 
employing  mechanic  power  of  which  the  circumstances 
would  not  admit)  they  were  broken  up  on  deck,  and 
their  contents  thrown  pell-mell  into  the  sea. 

In  spite  of  the  danger  of  our  situation,  it  was  impos- 
sible to  avoid  laughing  outright  at  the  scene  passing 
upon  deck.  A dozen  of  Ireland’s  most  wild  and  rag- 
ged sons  were  collected  round  the  crate, -its  fastenings 
were  destroyed  in  a moment,  and  the  unfortunate 


*At  Fayal  this  conjecture  proved  to  have  been  correct. 


20 


MERCIFUL  DISPENSATION. 


crockery  exposed  to  treatment  most  rude  and  merciless ; 
saucers,  cups,  plates,  basins,  were  sent  overboard  with- 
out comment,  but  the  quaint  observations  and  strange 
gestures  of  the  Paddies  as  they  handled  sauce-boats,  tu- 
reens, and  othnr  utensils,  which  many  of  them  had  ne- 
ver seen  before,  were  amusing  in  the  highest  degree. — 
One  fellow,  wishing  to  show  more  strength  and  dexte- 
rity than  his  neighbours,  was  staggering  under  a great 
load  of  plates,  when  the  ship  gave  a lurch,  and  he  was 
washed  off  his  legs,  and  rolled  with  the  broken  frag- 
ments of  his  crockery,  in  the  lee-scuppers.  The  labour 
of  getting  rid  of  the  cargo,  added  to  the  pumping,  was 
continued  the  whole  day ; towards  noon  we  got  at  the 
tin  dnd  iron,  and  at  sunset,  the  mate  calculated  that  we 
had  heaved  over  twenty  ton  of  crockery,  and  seventy 
ton  of  metal. 

Here  I must  pause,  to  dwell  for  a moment  on  the  il- 
lustration, afforded  by  our  present  circumstances,  of  the 
inscrutable  wisdom  and  mercy  of  that  Being  whom  we 
are  constantly  incensing  by  our  disobedience,  and  in- 
sulting by  our  ignorant  complaints,  but  who,  neverthe- 
less, bears  with  our  infirmities,  and  often  compels  us  to 
love  and  admiration  by  making  the  very  grievances  of 
which  we  complain  the  visible  instruments  of  our  pre- 
servation. This  reflection  was  suggested  by  looking 
at  the  scene  on  deck ; for,  during  the  first  week  of  the 
voyage,  we  (in  the  cabin)  had  often  complained  of  the 
smell,  dirt,  and  other  nuisances  occasioned  by  the  num- 
ber of  emigrants  stowed  in  the  steerage,  most  of  whom 
were,  as  I have  said,  of  the  most  wretched  and  ragged 
class  that  Ireland  exports  to  the  colonies  ; and  we  had 
often  remarked  how  much  more  agreeable  the  voyage 
would  have  been  had  they  not  come  on  board.  Had 
our  wish  been  granted,  our  term  of  life  had  now  been 
short  indeed! — if  the  ship’s  complement  had  consisted 
only  of  the  crew  and  cabin  passengers,  we  should  have 
been,  ere  this,  worn  down  by  fatigue,  and  unable  to 
keep  her  afloat ; for,  besides  the  ordinary  sailors’  duty, 
the  pumps  required  six  men  at  work  without  intermis- 
sion, day  and  night,  while  the  heaving  over  of  the  car- 
go found  full  employment  for  twenty  more  ! 


STORMY  NIGHT. 


21 


During  the  whole  of  the  3rd  the  wind  blew  fresh 
from  the  north,  and  the  captain  made  all  sail  for  the 
Azores,  which  islands  were  between  two  and  three* 
hundred  miles  to  the  south.  In  the  evening  it  changed 
to  the  south-west ; and,  gradually  increasing  in  vio- 
lence, before  midnight  became  a heavy  gale.  It  was 
indeed  a dreadful  night ; several  storms  of  hail,  the 
stones  of  which  were  larger  than  any  I had  ever  seen 
in  Europe,  fell  in  rapid  succession  ; the  ship  laboured 
and  rolled  so  heavily  that  it  was  with  difficulty  I could 
cling  to  my  berth,  while  trunks,  boxes,  and  everything 
not  securely  lashed,  rolled  about  the  cabin,  making  a 
din  sufficient  to  keep  even  weariness  from  sleep. 

In  the  morning  I scrambled  on  deck,  clothed  in  a 
thick  jacket ; and,  partially  sheltered  under  the  wea- 
ther bulwarks,  held  fast  to  the  rigging.  I had  read  of 
storms  at  sea,  but  my  conception  had  never  figured 
anything  so  terrible  as  the  scene  before  me.  A lurid 
saffron  light  mingled  with  the  dusky  blackness  of  the 
clouds,  which  resembled  the  effect  of  some  wide-spread 
conflagration  at  night,  rather  than  the  light  of  day  ; the 
ship,  after  an  ineffectual  attempt  at  lying-to,  was  scud- 
ding under  bare  poles  ; every  stick  had  been  reduced, 
and  a storm-jib,  which  had  been  set  a few  minutes  be- 
fore I came  on  deck,  was  blown  into  ribands  ! The 
might  of  the  ocean  was  now  aroused,  and  the  large  ship 
was  a cock-boat ; three  men  were  lashed  to  the  helm, 
watching  every  plunge  of  her  bows,  and  careful  to  save 
her  from  being  struck  by  any  of  the  tremendous  seas 
which  were  sometimes  towering  high  over  her  yard- 
arm. 

Captain  Phillips,  who  had  been  familiar  with  the 
Atlantic  for  two-and- twenty  years,  (and  who  had  beha- 
ved throughout  this  trying  scene  with  admirable  firm- 
ness and  self-possession,)  assured  me  that  never  in  win- 
ter or  in  summer  had  he  encountered  weather  so  severe, 
while  the  rolling  of  the  ship  rendered  it  almost  impos- 
sible to  work  the  pumps,  for  sometimes  they  would 
scarcely  draw,  and  the  men  could  not  keep  on  their 
legs  ; the  hatches  were  closed,  and  the  hold  could  not 
be  sounded,  but  it  was  too  certain,  under  these  circum- 


22 


OFFICES  OF  DEVOTION. 


stances,  that  the  leak  was  gaining-  ground.  I saw  the 
mate  place  an  axe  by  the  foot  of  the  mast,  a symptom 
which,  together  with  the  glances  he  interchanged  with 
the  captain,  convinced  me  that  they  were  preparing  for 
the  worst.  To  complete  the  gloom  of  the  prospect  we 
were  driving  with  headlong  speed  to  the  north-east, 
that  is,  directly  contrary  to  the  quarter  where  was  our 
only  hope  of  finding  a harbour. 

I seriously  believed  that  our  appointed  time  was  at 
hand,  when  my  reflections  were  disturbed  by  a sudden 
cry  of  warning  from  Captain  Phillips,  (who  sprung  up 
the  weather  mizzen-shrouds  with  the  activity  of  a cat,) 
but  before  I could  catch  his  meaning,  or  look  around,  a 
heavy  sea  struck  us  and  broke  over  the  quarter-deck, 
sweeping  everything  moveable  before  it.  I was  un- 
conscious of  anything  further  until  I found  myself 
stuck  in  the  lee-rigging,  being  thus  providentially  saved 
from  being  carried  over-board.  Drenched,  bruised, 
and  having  lost  my  oil-skin  hat,  I retreated  below,  en- 
sconced myself  in  my  berth  ; and,  favoured  by  the  pre- 
ceding day’s  fatigue  and  a sleepless  night  contrived  ere 
long  to  fall  asleep. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  I went  again  on  deck,  and 
found  that  the  gale  had  abated  in  violence ; but  there 
was  still  a very  heavy  sea,  and  the  pumps  were  worked 
with  difficulty.  The  dissenting  minister,  (although 
not  a man  of  powerful  mind  or  energy,)  was  a serious 
and  sincere  Christian  ; with  the  consent  of  the  captain, 
he  called  together  on  deck  from  cabin,  forecastle,  and 
steerage,  ail  who  were  disposed  to  join  in  the  offices  of 
devotion  ; and  after  a prayer  appropriate  to  the  circum- 
stances in  which  we  were  placed,  proceeded  to  read 
that  magnificent  portion  of  Scripture,  where  the  Psalm- 
ist, after  describing  the  wonderful  works  of  the  Almigh- 
ty, displayed  on  the  deep  in  storm  and  terror,  completes 
and  concludes  his  graphic  description  with  those  mer- 
ciful and  consoling  words,  “ He  maketh  the  storm  a 
calm,  so  that  the  waves  thereof  are  still.  Then  are 
they  glad  because  they  be  quiet : so  He  bringeth  them 
unto  their  desired  haven.”* 

* Ps.  107}  v.  23,  et  seq. 


CONDUCT  OF  THE  LADIES. 


23 


Most  of  the  labourers  and  sailors  listened  with  serious 
attention  ; but,  alas  ! there  were  some,  especially 
among  the  latter,  who  sneered  and  scoffed  at  the  exer- 
cise in  which  we  were  engaged,  and  I heard  one  fellow 
say  to  his  messmate,  “ I say,  Jack,  this  d — d gale  o’  wind 
and  leak  has  all  been  owing  to  the  parson  ; if  I could 
have  had  my  way,  we’d  have  heaved  him  overboard 
long  before  this  ?”  Such  is  human  nature,  when  de- 
graded by  ignorance  and  vice,  and  untouched  by  mercy 
or  by  grace.  Later  in  the  evening,  the  wind  fell,  and 
the  sea  subsided ; the  pumps  worked  more  easily ; and, 
as  soon  as  it  was  daylight  on  the  following  morning, 
we  were  able  to  resume  the  labour  of  heaving  over  the 
cargo. 

The  conduct  of  the  ladies  throughout  this  trying- 
scene  was  most  exemplary ; and  although  the  relation 
of  sister,  child,  and  husband,  involved  in  common  dan- 
ger with  them,  added  sharper  pangs  to  the  natural  ter- 
ror inspired  by  their  situation,  they  were  almost  uni- 
versally composed  and  resigned. 

On  the  5th,  the  wind  continued  still  to  head  us  off 
from  our  attempt  at  reaching  the  Azores  ; at  2 p.  m.  we 
made  a sail  on  the  weather-bow ; we  hoisted  signals  of 
distress  ; she  noticed  them,  and  bore  down  towards  us  : 
the  weather  being  now  moderate,  she  lowered  a boat 
and  sent  a mate  and  half-a-dozen  men  on  board  of  us. 
She  proved  to  be  the  Lady  Raffles,  from  Bengal,  bound 
for  London ; they  said  that  if  we  were  in  extreme  dan- 
ger, they  could  take  a dozen  or  two  of  our  complement, 
but  that  they  were  very  crowded,  had  still  one  thou- 
sand two  hundred  miles  to  run,  and  were  scant  both  of 
water  and  provisions. 

Great  was  the  doubt  and  dispute  and  anxiety  amidst 
our  passengers,  as  to  who  should  leave  our  unlucky 
ship,  and  return  in  safety  to  England.  The  German 

merchant,  Mr.  the  architect  and  his  wife,  with 

one  or  two  others  in  the  cabin,  who  had  been  through- 
out most  subdued  and  depressed  by  terror,  determined 
at  once  to  leave  the  ship  : there  was  a fearful  conflict  in 
the  mind  of  one  of  our  passengers,  who  had  been,  I be- 
lieve, a lawyer  in  the  west  of  Scotland,  and  had  now 


24 


DEPARTURE  OF  PASSENGERS. 


sailed  with  his  family  for  Canada,  where  he  intended 
permanently  to  reside.  I felt  much  for  him,  as  he  asked 
my  advice  whether  he  should  return  or  remain.  I told 
him  that  I could  offer  him  no  advice  as  I was  alone, 
and  he  had  his  wife  and  children  on  board,  but  that  I 
myself  intended  certainly  to  remain  : he  decided  upon 
the  latter  course. 

While  our  departing  passengers  were  collecting  their 
baggage,  I overheard  a few  words  which  fell  from  one 
of  the  Irish  labourers,  at  which  I could  not  refrain  from 
smiling.  I was  rather  a favorite  among  these  poor  fel- 
lows, as  I had  joked  with  them,  and  encouraged  them 
at  the  pumps  ; many  of  them  had  worked  at  the  har- 
vest, in  the  west  of  Scotland,  and  knew  my  family,  so 
they  call  me  the  young  Scotch  lord.  They  gathered 
eagerly  towards  the  quarter-deck  to  learn  who  and  how 
many  were  about  to  leave  the  ship  : I then  overheard 
one  of  them  say,  “We’ll  just  see  what  the  young  Scotch 
lord  does  ; if  he  stays,  it’s  all  right.”  Indeed,  I think 
it  probable  that  if  I and  two  or  three  more  of  the  cabin 
passengers  had  gone  on  board  the  Lady  Raffles,  these 
fellows  would  have  considered  themselves  deserted, 
and  believing  their  case  to  be  hopeless,  might  have  be- 
come quite  unmanageable. 

As  Mr. went  over  the  ship’s  side  I cautioned 

him  strongly  against  alarming  our  friends  and  relations 
in  England,  by  spreading  reports  of  our  danger  on  his 
return,  and  in  half  an  hour  we  saw  him  and  his  com- 
panions safely  placed  on  the  deck  of  the  Indiaman  ;*  we 
returned  to  our  pumping  and  heaving  out  cargo,  ma- 
king every  exertion  to  reach  the  Azores.  For  three 
days  these  labours  continued  without  intermission ; the 
lightening  of  the  ship  had  produced  a sensible  effect 
upon  the  leak,  but  it  was  still  so  nearly  balanced  by 
the  power  of  the  pumps,  that  the  latter  could  not  be 
suspended  for  ten  minutes  in  three  hours,  without  risk. 
We  were  at  one  time  threatened  with  a mutiny,  on  the 
subject  of  ardent  spirits,  which  the  steerage-passengers 

* I am  sorry  to  add  that  this  caution  was  neglected,  and  that  on 
the  arrival  of  the  Lady  Raffles  reports  of  our  having  been  left  at  sea 
in  a hopeless  condition  were  widely  circulated. 


THREATENED  MUTINY. 


25 


insisted  upon  having  served  out,  whereas  it  had  been 
determined  from  the  first  day  of  the  leak  to  lock  up  the 
spirit-room,  which  did  not  contain  a three  days’  supply 
for  the  number  of  claimants,  who  would  have  been  more 
ungovernable  while  it  lasted,  and  discontented  when  it 
was  finished  ; so  the  captain  firmly  adhered  to  his  re- 
solution. A few  of  them,  whose  turn  it  was  to  pump, 
refused  to  work  unless  they  got  some  whisky  ; he  told 
them  they  might  be  dro  wned,  but  that  they  should  be 
drowned  sober,  not  drunk.  We  prepared  our  fire-arms 
in  the  cabin  to  defend  the  spirit-room  in  case  of  neces- 
sity. 

Meantime  the  resolute  courage  of  the  captain  of  the 
gang  on  duty  (who  was  a powerful  young  man  from 
Anglesea)  settled  the  question  ; he  called  out  his  men 
by  rotation,  and  the  first  recusant  he  knocked  down 
with  his  fist,  the  second  he  treated  in  the  same  manner, 
when  seeing  that  he  was  determined,  and  that  although 
they  could  get  no  whisky,  they  might,  through  a few 
minutes  more  delay,  be  drowned,  they  caught  hold  of 
the  pump  ; I jumped  in  among  them,  and  we  worked 
away  as  merrily  as  if  nothing  had  happened. 

The  breeze  having  continued  favourable  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  we  were  rejoiced  on  the  8th  by  the  cry  of 
“land  a-head  it  proved  to  be  Graciosa,  the  northern- 
most of  the  Azores.  In  the  evening  we  shortened  sail, 
and  on  the  morning  of  the  9th  were  off  Fayal.  I leave 
it  for  the  reader  to  imagine  the  sensations  of  delight  and 
gratitude  which  accompanied  the  first  view  of  this  de- 
sired haven,  after  the  fatigue  and  danger  to  which  we 
had  for  nine  days  been  exposed. 


c 


26 


APPROACH  TO  FAYAL. 


# 

CHAPTER  II. 


Approach  to  Fayal. — Peak  of  Pico. — Reception  by  the  British  Consul. — 
The  Town — its  declining  State. — Politeness  of  the  People. — Singular 
Custom. — Inauguration  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress  of  Fayal. — The 
Fayal  Authorities. — Agriculture. — Donkeys. — Volcanic  Formation  of 
the  Island. — Market  Days. — Cruelty  to  an  Animal. — Delightful 
Climate. — Rock  Pigeons. — A quaint  old  Hunter. — Perilous  Ascent. 
— A good  Shot. — The  American  Consul  and  his  Daughters. — Beautiful 
Orange  Garden. — Exquisite  Scenery. — Evening  Parties. — Absurd 
Custom. — Successful  Attempt  to  reform  it. 

The  opening  of  these  western  islands  from  the  north 
is  strikingly  beautiful.  At  first  sight  the  round  sloping 
hills  of  Fayal  recall  the  Isle  of  Man  to  remembrance, 
but  the  soft  air,  the  verdure,  the  orange  groves,  tell  of 
a gentler  climate ; while  the  Peak  of  Pico,  with  his  lofty 
summit  towering  above  a wreathed  mantle  of  clouds, 
looks  down  upon  the  cluster  of  isles  beneath  with  the 
pride  of  a mountain  autocrat.  After  passing  through 
the  strait  which  separates  Pico  from  Fayal,  and  round- 
ing two  bold  headlands  in  the  latter  island,  the  town 
gradually  opens  upon  the  view  ; it  is  of  a crescent  form, 
the  streets  having  followed  the  indented  margin  of  the 
bay,  and  the  hills,  by  which  it  is  surrounded  on  three 
sides,  are  covered  with  orange,  lemon,  lime,  box,  gera- 
nium, and  other  beautiful  shrubs. 

On  landing,  we  went  to  the  house  of  the  British  Con- 
sul, Mr.  Walker,  from  whom  we  experienced  a kind 

reception  ; indeed  he  pressed  Captain and  myself 

with  so  much  sincerity  to  take  up  our  abode  with  him 
that  we  could  not  decline  so  agreeable  an  offer.  Fayal 
does  not  boast  of  an  inn  or  tavern  of  any  description  ; — * 
the  other  cabin  passengers  were  billetted  in  different 
half-occupied  half-furnished  houses,  while  the  steerage 
emigrants  were  all  quartered  in  a spacious  convent 
which  had  been  dismantled  and  pillaged  by  some  of  the 
adherents  of  Don  Pedro  ; meanwhile  the  poor  Wa- 
verly  would  have  sunk  in  the  harbour,  had  not  the  cap- 


THE  TOWN. 


27 


tain  hired  relays  of  Portuguese  boatmen  to  pump  her 
out  continually  until  arrangements  could  be  made  for 
heaving  her  down,  there  being  no  dry  dock  in  any  port 
of  the  Azores. 

The  town  consists  principally  of  one  long  straggling 
street,  from  which  many  smaller  ones  branch  off  at 
right  angles.  The  buildings  are  generally  whitewash- 
ed and  have  a cleanly  appearance,  but  there  are  many 
and  evident  marks  of  declining  trade,  population,  and 
wealth : some  large  houses  are  empty,  others  going  to 
ruin,  and  the  public  buildings  (which  are  spacious  pic- 
turesque edifices,  with  no  pretensions  to  architecture) 
are  in  a miserable  state  of  dilapidation ; one  of  them 
seems  to  perform  the  functions  of  all  the  rest,  as  it  an- 
& swers  the  various  purposes  of  customhouse,  treasury, 
W home  and  foreign  office,  a barrack,  and  a college  ! — 
' Some  of  the  houses  attest  by  their  shattered  doors  and 
broken  windows  that  they  belonged  to  Miguelites  du- 
ring the  late  civil  war.  The  Pedro  party  is  quite  tri- 
umphant here,  their  few  and  feeble  opponents  having 
migrated  to  other  islands.  A stranger  is  much  struck 
by  the  extraordinary  and  somewhat  inconvenient  po- 
liteness shown  to  him  by  all  classes  in  the  street : those 
in  the  upper  ranks  of  life  take  off  their  hats  and  bow  ; 
and  the  peasantry  and  labourers  stand  still  and  uncover- 
ed, while  making  way  for  him  to  pass. 

On  the  evening  after  our  arrival  I witnessed  a cu- 
rious procession,  the  origin  and  description  of  which 
may  be  so  far  interesting,  as  throwing  some  light  upon 
the  habits  and  religious  prejudices  of  the  inhabitants. 
The  island  of  Fayal  is  divided  into  eight  parishes,  of 
which  three  are  in  the  town.  In  each  of  these  are  cho- 
sen, on  every  successive  Sunday  between  Easter  and 
Whitsunday,  an  Emperor  and  an  Empress ; they  are 
elected  by  universal  suffrage  of  their  fellow  parishion- 
ers, from  the  middle  and  lower  orders,  their  office  last- 
ing, of  course,  one  week  : they  may  or  may  not  be  re- 
lated to  each  other,  and  have  no  power,  authority,  or 
privilege  of  any  kind  ; on  the  contrary,  they  are  obliged 
to  furnish  wax  candles  for  the  churches  on  the  day  of 
•heir  inauguration,  and  to  provide  a certain  quantity  of 


28 


INSTALLATION- 


food  for  the  poor,  and  a treat  of  wine  and  other  drink  to 
their  companions.  The  ceremony  may  probably  cost 
them  from  twenty  to  thirty  dollars  ; and  yet,  such  is  the 
force  of  prejudice  and  habit,  that  even  in  the  present 
depressed  and  impoverished  state  of  the  island,  this 
empty  distinction  is  sought  with  the  greatest  avidity  by 
men  who  can  scarcely  find  wherewithal  to  feed  or  clothe 
themselves  and  their  families.  I am  assured,  it  is  by 
no  means  uncommon  for  their  imperial  honours  to  be 
preceded,  or  followed,  by  a few  weeks’  imprisonment 
for  debt. 

On  the  day  of  their  installation  they  go  in  procession 
through  the  streets  with  flags  and  banners,  discordant 
music,  and  still  more  discordant  cries,  to  the  church, 
where  the  priest  places  a silver  tinsel  crown  upon  their 
heads  and  performs  other  trifling  ceremonies.  As  they 
pass  along,  they  receive  from  many  houses  tribute  of  a 
small  donation,  which  is  offered  by  them  at  the  church, 
for  the  Holy  Ghost,  in  honour  of  whom  the  festival  is 
said  to  have  been  originally  instituted  : a collection  is 
always  made,  because  it  appears  to  be  the  custom  of  the 
lower  orders  when  attacked  by  sickness  or  disease,  to 
go  to  bed,  and,  taking  neither  remedy  nor  medical  ad- 
vice, to  vow  so  many  farthings  to  the  Holy  Ghost  on 
this  occasion,  in  the  event  of  their  recovery.  The 
evening  is  closed  by  drinking  and  dancing  to  a jing- 
ling guitar,  until  fatigue  and  intoxication  terminate  the 
feast. 

Such  is  a brief  outline  of  the  inauguration  of  the 
Emperor  and  Empress  of  Fayal.  “ Take  physic, 
Pomp  !”  and  see  how  low,  even  in  human  estimation, 
the  imperial  name  may  fall  !*  If  in  future  ages  our  dis- 
embodied spirits  are  permitted  to  recall  and  review  the 
scenes  in  which  they  mingled  while  on  earth,  perhaps 

* Conf.  Schiller’s  Piccolomini,  Act  iii.  Sc.  3. 

“ So  miisst  es  einem  seligen  Geiste  seyn, 

Der  aus  den  wohmungen  der  eurgen  Frende. 

Zu  seinen  kinder  spielen,  und  Geschaften, 

Zu  seinem  neigungen,  und  Bruderschaften, 

Zum  ganzen  armen  menscheit  weiderkehrte  !” 


THE  FAYAL  AUTHORITIES. 


29 


the  glories,  the  treasures,  the  quarrels  and  jealousies  of 
the  rulers  of  nations  will  appear  as  trifling,  as  worth- 
less and  ephemeral,  as  the  idle  pageant  above  descri- 
bed. 

The  Fayal  authorities,  whether  civil,  military,  or  ec- 
clesiastic, seem  to  be  very  unimportant  personages  both 
as  to  their  duties  and  appointments.  The  police,  such 
as  it  is,  appears  to  be  under  the  control  of  a prefect  and 
subordinate  officers,  who  also  attend  the  custom-house, 
the  prohibitory  regulations  of  which  are  as  severe  as  in 
the  frontier  districts  of  Prussia  or  Austria.  During  my 
stay,  the  military  governor’s  force  consisted  of  a few 
recruits  miserably  drilled  and  accoutred ; the  artillery 
boasted  of  eleven  men  and  a lieutenant ; while  the  re- 
ligious establishments  were  directed  by  an  Ouvidor  or 
superintendant,  responsible  to  a superior  resident  at  Ter- 
ceira,  the  latter  being  the  deputy  of  the  Bishop  of  the 
Azores,  who  was  at  this  time  (1834)  supposed  to  be 
with  Don  Pedro’s  army. 

The  agriculture  of  the  island  is  as  remarkable  for  la- 
borious industry,  as  for  the  awkwardness  and  want  of 
skill  with  which  that  industry  is  applied.  The  hills 
are  cultivated  to  the  very  top,  while  many  of  the  more 
fertile  spots  in  the  valleys  are  exhausted  by  overcrop- 
ping, and  rendered  unproductive  by  neglect.  The  vin- 
tage had  failed  for  several  successive  years ; but  the 
proprietors  of  farms,  who  are  generally  merchants  in 
the  town,  could  not  lower  the  rents  in  consequence  of 
their  commercial  losses ; the  natural  consequence  is 
that  the  soil  has  been  burthened  and  exhausted  in  the 
attempt  to  extract  from  it  an  unusual  quantity  of  pro- 
duce. The  carts,  drawn  only  by  oxen  and  cows,  are 
huge  ponderous  machines,  with  enormous  wheels  very 
narrow  in  the  tire.  As  might  be  expected,  they  cut  an 
unpaved  road  into  holes  and  ruts  in  a very  few  days. — 
The  jolting  and  creaking  sounds  emitted  by  the  dry 
axles  of  these  primitive  vehicles,  prevent  any  conver- 
sation from  trespassing  in  their  neighbourhood. 

The  streets  are  execrably  paved,  and  altogether  the 
most  favourable  I ever  saw  for  the  production  of  bro- 
ken shins  and  sprained  ancles.  There  are  very  few 


30 


VOLCANIC  FORMATION. 


horses  or  ponies  on  the  island,  donkeys  being  used  for 
those  excusions  which  are  too  long  to  be  performed  on 
foot  by  the  elderly  merchants  and  ladies.  We  had 
many  amusing  scenes  with  these  obstinate  though  sure 
footed  animals,  while  making  trips  of  pleasure  to  the 
gardens  and  villas  above  the  town  ; for  they  knew  so 
well  the  roads  leading  to  their  favourite  haunts  or  sta- 
bles, that  they  were  very  little  disposed  to  consult  the 
wishes  of  their  riders  as  to  the  line  of  march,  and  a dis- 
pute upon  this  point  was  generally  accompanied  by 
smart  blows  on  one  side,  and  sundry  active  and  absurd 
flourishes  of  the  heels  on  the  other. 

The  volcanic  formation  of  the  island  meets  the  eye 
in  every  quarter : the  houses  are  built  and  the  streets 
are  paved  with  lava,  and  many  of  the  rough  stones  ly- 
ing about  the  hills  and  in  the  beds  of  the  streams,  look 
as  if  they  were  quite  fresh  from  the  furnace.  There 
seems  to  be  no  scarcity  of  domestic  animals.  On  the 
market  days,  which  are  Thursday  and  Sunday,  the 
town  wears  a very  busy  appearance.  An  ordinary 
cow. is  worth  fourteen  or  fifteen  dollars,  a pig  two,  a 
sheep  one  and  a half,  and  fowls  are  sold  at  a shilling 
each  English  money. 

A few  days  after  our  arrival,  an  incident  occurred, 
which  shows  the  necessity  for  extending  Mr.  Martin’s 
act  beyond  the  shores  of  Great  Britain.  A ragged  fel- 
low, employed  occasionally  as  a sedan-chairman,  bought 
a miserable  donkey  for  three  shillings,  and  putting  a 
rope  round  the  poor  animal’s  neck  dragged  it  about  the 
town,  vociferating  its  merits,  and  endeavoring  to  make 
some  profit  by  reselling  it ; presently  it  was  so  exhaust- 
ed by  fatigue  and  weakness  that  it  dropped  down  in 
the  street ; he  beat  it  most  unmercifully  with  a cudgel 
till  he  broke  one  of  its  legs,  and  dragged  it  forward  on 
its  side,  while  a rabble  of  boys  and  street-vagabonds 
drew  it  by  the  tail,  threshing  it  with  thongs  and  sticks. 
I was  sitting  at  dinner  in  the  English  Consul’s  house 
when  these  wretches,  with  the  victim  of  their  cruelty, 
passed  before  the  windows.  I caught  up  a loaded  gun 
and  sallied  forth  to  the  rescue  ; but  the  poor  creature 
was  past  all  hope  of  recovery  from  the  blows  and 


AN  OLD  HUNTER. 


31 


wounds  it  had  already  received.  I lost  no  time,  how- 
ever, in  terminating  its  sufferings  by  lodging  the  charge 
of  my  gun  in  its  brain.  Meanwhile,  the  chairman 
worked  himself  into  a great  fury,  stamped,  tore  his  hair, 
shook  his  fist,  and  poured  forth  a torrent  of  Portuguese 
Billingsgate,  which  produced  little  effect  upon  me,  who 
did  not  understand  it.  He  also  threatened  to  appeal  to 
the  judge ; a threat  he  was  too  prudent  to  put  in  exe- 
cution. being  well  aware  that  his  own  conduct  would 
not  have  met  with  judicial  approbation. 

I never,  in  any  part  of  the  world  enjoyed  a climate  so 
delightful.  At  mid-day  the  sun  was  powerful ; but  the 
heat  was  always  tempered  by  the  fresh  ocean-breeze, 
which  prevented  any  sensation  of  lassitude.  I fre- 
quently amused  myself  by  long  walks  into  the  interior 
in  pursuit  of  quails,  which  were  abundant ; but  as,  at 
this  season,  they  were  chiefly  in  the  standing  crops, 
my  sport  was  thereby  much  curtailed.  Sometimes, 
indeed,  I ventured  to  trespass  therein,  but  was  general- 
ly recalled  to  a sense  of  my  offence  by  loud  cries  from 
the  labourers.  I must  own  that  they  were  very  good- 
humoured  on  these  occasions,  and  never  carried  their 
warnings  to  the  length  of  threats  or  incivility. 

I went  out  several  times  in  search  of  rock-pigeons. 
These  birds  are  not  unlike  the  blue  pigeons  found  in 
the  islands  on  the  west  coast  of  Scotland.  They  are 
small,  slate-coloured,  and  fly  with  exceeding  rapidity  ; 
they  build  their  nests  in  the  crevices  of  the  black  pre- 
cipitous rocks  which  gird  the  S.  W.  shore  of  the  island. 
The  best  time  for  shooting  them  is  during  the  heat  of 
the  day,  when  they  fly  in  countless  numbers  into  the 
interior  to  slake  their  thirst  at  the  fresh  springs  among 
the  hills.  The  hunter  who  knows  these  resorts,  may, 
by  concealing  himself,  kill  as  many  in  two  or  three  shots 
as  he  can  wish  to  carry  home.  I went  with  an  old 
hunter  to  attack  them  in  their  rocky  haunts  ; his  ap- 
pearance was  picturesque  in  the  extreme,  and  very 
nearly  answered  the  description  of  Cooper’s  inimitable 
“ Leather-stocking,”  for  he  was  clad  in  a jerkin  of  lea- 
ther, leggings  of  the  same  material  protected  his  legs, 
on  his  feet  were  sandals  of  undressed  ox-hide,  and 


32 


PERILOUS  ASCENT. 


on  his  head  a rough  sheep-skin  cap  : he  carried  an  old 
Spanish  fowling-piece,  the  barrel  of  which  was  of  great 
length  and  solidity,  while  the  ponderous  lock  was  so 
slow  in  its  movement,  and  the  priming-pan  so  distant 
from  the  breech,  that  it  seemed  constructed  on  purpose 
to  give  warning  to  the  object  at  which  it  was  levelled, 
to  move  out  of  danger  ; in  fact,  it  would  require  no  great 
stretch  of  imagination  to  liken  the  discharge  of  this  pri- 
mitive firelock  to  a pinch  of  snuff  administered  to  an 
unpractised  nose,  where  one  hears  the  nasal  sniff  ac- 
companying the  admission  of  the  powder  into  the  nos- 
tril, and  after  a minute  or  two,  the  report  of  the  conse- 
quent sneeze. 

Armed  with  this  venerable  weapon,  the  no  less  vene- 
rable hunter  contrived  to  be  the  most  celebrated  poacher 
on  the  island.  He  brought  more  quails  and  pigeons  to 
market  than  any  other  man ; his  sagacity  was  great, 
and  his  patience  inexhaustible ; he  never  wasted  pow- 
der and  shot  upon  a single  member  of  the  feathered 
tribe,  but  crept  into  ravines,  hid  himself  behind  the 
walls  or  hedges  ; and  whenever  he  could  find  a luck- 
less family  of  quails  at  their  morning  meal  and  grouped 
conveniently  for  his  purpose,  or  whenever  a thick  flight 
of  pigeons  passed  over  his  head,  he  fired  into  the  midst 
of  them,  never  showing  malice  against  any  individual 
of  the  species,  but  giving  them  all  an  equal  chance  of 
destruction  or  escape  with  most  praiseworthy  impar- 
tiality ; however,  as  the  gun  above-described  was  gene- 
rally loaded  with  a full  charge  of  powder  and  about 
three  ounces  of  shot,  he  rarely  returned  with  an  empty 
pouch. 

With  this  quaint  old  hunter  I sallied  forth  one  morn- 
ing along  the  shore,  in  search  of  pigeons.  After  walk- 
ing for  a mile  or  two,  the  sloping  beach  abruptly  ter- 
minated, and  we  continued  our  course  along  a narrow 
ledge  of  rocks,  which  was,  for  some  distance,  but  little 
raised  above  the  sea  ; on  our  other  hand  were  the  high 
black  precipices  to  which  I have  before  referred,  and 
among  which  hundreds  of  pigeons  were  wheeling  and 
circling  in  the  air,  quite  out  of  the  range  of  shot.  After 
a time,  the  old  man  quietly  said  that  we  must  go  to  the 


A GOOD  SHOT. 


33 


top  of  the  rocks,  as  we  should  there  find  better  sport. 
I looked  at  the  dark  frowning  masses  above  us,  and 
thought  either  that  he  was  in  a joke  or  that  I misun- 
derstood him,  as  I had  but  small  skill  in  the  Portu- 
guese tongue  ; nevertheless,  he  said  there  were  u steps” 
or  “ stairs,”  and  led  the  way  towards  them.  On  arri- 
ving at  the  indicated  spot,  I was  indeed  surprised  to 
find  that  there  were  notches  or  steps  in  the  rock,  partly 
natural,  and  partly  cut  by  hunters  or  smugglers,  which 
afforded  sufficient  foot-hold  for  a practised  climber. 
My  old  companion  seemed  quite  familiar  with  this 
path,  and  went  up  it  as  leisurely  as  if  he  had  been 
walking  on  level  ground  : I followed  as  well  as  I was 
able,  but,  before  I was  half-way,  wished  that  I had  not 
attempted  it ; for  independently  of  the  novelty  of  the 
exercise,  I laboured  under  disadvantages  from  which 
he  was  free  ; his  soft  pliant  sandles  enabled  him  to 
cling  better  with  his  feet  than  I could  with  a pair  of 
thick  shooting-shoes ; and  he  scrupled  not  to  use  his 
long  barrelled  gun  as  a prop  or  staff  whenever  he  re 
quired  its  aid  ; my  short  double-barrel  could  answer  no 
such  purpose,  so  it  was  with  some  risk  and  difficulty 
that  I kept  close  to  my  guide  ; I never  looked  down- 
wards, being  afraid  that  my  head  might  become  giddy ; 
and  when  we  reached  the  top,  I was  more  glad  than  I 
chose  to  express. 

If  the  activity  of  old  “ Leather-stocking”  surprised 
me,  I was  soon  able  to  surprise  him  in  turn  ; for,  two 
pigeons  passing  over  us  in  full  flight,  I fired  right  and 
left,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  them  both  drop 
within  ten  yards  of  his  feet.  I never  saw  astonishment 
so  visibly  painted  on  a human  face  ; for  a minute  he 
seemed  unable  to  articulate,  and  when  he  did  speak, 
the  only  words  he  uttered  were,  “ O diabo  o spingad 
ed  o cacador  ?”*  We  continued  our  ramble  until  late 
in  the  afternoon,  and  returned  laden  with  pigeons. 

The  wealthiest  proprietor  in  Fayal  is  Mr.  D , 

the  American  Consul ; we  found  him  extremely  hos- 
pitable ; and,  as  his  daughters  and  a friend  on  a visit 


* The  gun  is  a devil,  and  so  is  the  hunter. 


34 


PEAK  OF  PICO. 


to  them  were  the  first  American  ladies  whom  I had 
seen,  I observed  their  manners,  appearance,  and  con- 
versation, with  no  little  interest.  Abhorring  as  I do 
the  custom,  too  prevalent  among  travellers,  of  iepaying 
the  courtesies  shown  to  them  abroad  by  violating  the 
privacy  of  the  society  into  which  they  have  been  ad- 
mitted, I shall  say  no  more  here,  than  that  the  impres- 
sion which  I received  at  Fayal  was  most  favourable, 
and  that  the  hours  spent  in  the  American  consul’s 
house  were  most  agreeable.*  Adjoining  it  was  a beau- 
tiful orange-garden,  and  there,  when  the  heat  of  the 
sun  invited  to  the  enjoyment  of  shade,  I often  stretched 
myself  under  the  boughs  of  a large  orange-tree,  feasting 
my  eyes  on  the  lovely  prospect  below,  and  occasionally 
refreshing  my  thirst  with  the  delicious  fruit  which 
tempted  me  from  above  ; the  narrow  sea  dividing  Fayal 
from  Pico,  was  studded  with  fishing  and  ferry  boats, 
beyond  which  were  stretched  the  black  rocks  and  hang- 
ing vineyards  of  the  opposite  coast,  while  the  distant 
landscape  was  filled  by  the  undulating  hills  of  St. 
George’s  Island ; but  the  object  on  which  my  eye  most 
loved  to  dwell,  was  that  noble  peak  to  which  I have 
before  referred.  There  may  be  many  higher  mountains 
in  the  world,  but,  (excepting  the  Peak  of  Teneriffe,) 
there  is  none  that  rises  abruptly  from  the  level  of  the 
sea  to  so  great  an  elevation.  On  one  side  of  it  is  al- 
most a continuous  precipice,  and  its  height  is  calcula- 
ted at  9000  feet ; it  is  “ alone  in  in  its  glory,”  no  rivai 
summit  robs  it  of  one  fleecy  “ wanderer  of  the  sky  f t 
it  seems  as  if  every  cloud  within  the  sphere  of  its  at- 
traction came  to  repose  upon  its  lofty  crest ; and  as  they 
feel  the  influence  of  the  winds  which  sweep  unobstruc- 
ted over  the  wide  ocean,  they  are  wreathed  and  piled 
into  a thousand  varied  and  fantastic  shapes,  ever  chang- 
ing their  colour  as  they  receive  the  impression  of  the 
solar  rays. 

* One  of  the  cabin-passengers  in  the  Waverly,  a young  Scotch  gentle- 
man, was  so  severely  wounded  by  the  bright  eyes  of  a daughter  of  the 
Consul,  that  he  afterwards  returned  from  Canada,  and  married  her. 

t “ Scgler  the  Lufte.” — Stiller. 


ABSURD  CUSTOM. 


35 


It  may  be  well  imagined  that  the  arrival  of  the  Wa- 
verly  had  created  no  small  sensation  in  Fayal.  and 
several  evening  parties  were  given  by  the  Portuguese 
leader  of  fashion  in  honour  of  the  “ distinguished  fo- 
reigners.” 

We  found  them  at  first  very  dull  and  formal,  from 
the  custom  which  was  universally  observed  of  separa- 
ting the  gentlemen  from  their  fair  partners,  and  thus 
restricting  all  conversation  between  them  to  the  pe- 
riod when  they  were  actually  engaged  in  dancing. — 
The  ball-room  was  generally  the  termination  of  the 
suite  of  apartments ; round  it  and  close  to  the  walls  sat 
all  the  ladies,  playing  with  their  fans,  chatting  to  each 
other  in  whispers,  and  looking  as  if  all  their  happiness 
was  in  expectancy ; in  the  adjoining  ante-room  the 
men  lounged,  or  stood  in  small  groups,  while  the  most 
gallant  placed  themselves  at  the  folding-doors  looking 
wistfully  into  the  paradise  which  they  seemed  forbid- 
den to  enter.  When  the  music  began,  they  hastened 
forward,  claimed  their  respective  partners,  and  after  the 
dance  returned  to  the  outer  apartment ; or  if  a few  lin- 
gered in  the  ball-room,  it  was  only  to  stand  opposite  to 
the  fair  wall-flowers  where  every  sentence  spoken  was 
necessarily  overheard  by  the  persons  on  either  side. 

After  enduring  this  unnecessary  penance  for  some 
time,  two  or  three  bold  spirits  from  the  Waverly  deter- 
mined to  effect  a radical  reform  of  the  social  abuse. 

Accordingly,  to  the  surprise  of  the  islanders,  we 
brought  chairs  in  from  the  adjoining  room ; and  after 
the  dance,  seated  ourselves  by  the  ladies5  bench,  and 
entered  into  conversation  with  them  The  unexpected 
audacity  of  this  proceeding,  precluded  all  possibility  of 
resistance  on  the  part  of  the  maintainers  of  the  “ an- 
cien  regime.”  Not  only  was  our  triumph  complete ; 
but  before  we  left  Fayal,  we  had  the  satisfaction  of 
seeing  the  lieutenant  of  artillery  and  other  native  beaux 
follow  our  heroic  example. 


.36 


MARINE  EXCURSION. 


CHAPTER  III. 


A Marine  Excursion. — Novel  Mode  of  landing. — Dinner  with  Captain  L. 
— A Portuguese  Ecclesiastic. — Latin  Conversation  with  him. — Pico. 
Wine. — Excursion  resumed. — Disagreeable  Quarters. — A Storm. — 
Providential  Escape. — Yelas. — Volcanic  Craters. — A buried  Church. — 
Unlucky  Search  for  Game. — Female  Costume. — Fuel. — Return  to 
Fayel. — The  Waverly  again  ready  for  Sea. — Serious  Affray. — Its 
Consequences. — A Street  Squabble. — Cowardly  Threats. — Leave 
Fayal. 

After  a fortnight  thus  agreeably  spent  in  Fayal,  I 
determined  to  see  some  of  the  other  islands ; and  ac- 
cordingly hired  a boat  manned  by  four  stout  seamen 
and  a pilot,  whose  services  I engaged  for  a week. 

Not  being  able  to  prevail  upon  any  of  my  fellow-pas- 
sengers to  accompany  me  on  this  excursion,  I embark- 
ed with  Mr. , the  son  of  the  Dutch  consul,  who 

was  kind  enough  to  volunteer  his  company,  which  was 
the  more  agreeable  and  useful  inasmuch  as  he  spoke 
the  language  fluently,  and  was  acquainted  with  many 
persons  in  the  places  that  I was  about  to  visit.  We 
started  with  a fresh  breeze,  and  ran  across  the  channel 
separating  Fayal  from  Pico,  (which  is  eight  or  nine 
miles  wide,)  in  the  space  of  an  hour. 

As  we  approached  the  shore,  I could  distinguish  a 
village  composed  of  a few  dozen  scattered  houses  ; a 
few  people  were  also  to  be  seen,  and  boats,  and  nets, 
but  I could  nowhere  discern  a creek  or  harbour,  nor 
any  indication  of  a landing-place.  The  coast  is  girt  by 
black  and  frowning  rocks  ; and  although  there  was  not 
a heavy  sea  running,  a formidable  row  of  breakers 
dashed  over  the  point  for  which  our  pilot  was  steering. 
I was  utterly  at  a loss  to  conceive  how  we  were  to  ef- 
fect a landing : but,  being  myself  only  a passenger,  and 
seeing  the  rest  of  the  party  apparently  unconcerned,  I 
had  nothing  to  do  but  to  remain  in  my  seat  and  watch 
their  movements  in  silence. 


DINNER  WITH  CAPTAIN  L- 


37 


As  soon  as  the  boat  was  within  a few  yards  of  the 
rocks,  half-a-dozen  stout  fellows,  armed  with  long  poles, 
were  prepared  to  assist  our  disembarkation.  Two  of 
our  own  boat’s  crew  stood  on  the  bows  provided  with 
similar  staves,  (which  resemble  very  closely  the  iron- 
shod  punt-poles  used  by  the  bargemen  in  the  Thames,) 
with  these  the  boatmen  and  those  on  shore  fended  us 
off  for  a minute  or  two,  until  the  boat  being  raised  by  a 
wave  larger  than  the  rest,  they  gave  a simultaneous 
shout,  and-allhwed  her  to  be  carried  high  upon  the 
rocks,  those  eTn  shore  breaking  her  fall  by  applying 
their  shoulders  and  fenders  brought  down  for  the  pur- 
pose. This  mode  of  landing  was  new  to  me,  but  I pre- 
sume those  who  are  accustomed  to  it,  like  it  as  well  as 
drawing  a boat  upon  a sandy  beach.  I do  not  think  I 
ever  saw  finer  or  mere  muscular  figures  than  the  bare- 
armed bare-legged  fellows  who  attend  the  landing  of 
Pico  boats.  Their  countenances  are  swarthy  and  sun- 
burnt, and  they  seem  to  live  half  their  lives  in  the  surf, 
and  to  treat  its  foam  and  rage  with  the  coolest  indiffe- 
rence. 

On  going  up  to  the  village,  I heard  that  Captain 

L had  come  from  Fayal  early  in  the  day,  and  was 

giving  a dinner  to  the  dignitaries  of  the  island  : I de- 
termined upon  witnessing  this  scene  of  hospitality ; 
and,  on  entering  the  room,  I found  the  captain  doing 
the  honours  at  the  end  of  a table,  round  which  sat  a 
dozen  persons,  total  strangers  to  me,  and  who  must  have 
been,  half-an-hour  before,  equally  strange  to  their  ex- 
cellent entertainer.  As  he  could  not  speak  a word  of 
Portuguese,  nor  of  any  other  language  intelligible  to 
his  guests,  the  conversation,  carried  on  by  signal,  and 
the  civilities  interchanged  by 

Quips  and  cranks,  and  wanton  wiles, 

Nods  and  becks,  and  wreathed  smiles, 

was  amusing  in  the  highest  degree.  The  captain  ha- 
ving made  his  friends  understand  that  I was  a Scottish 
grandee  of  the  first  class,  I was  treated  with  the  most 
profound  respect,  and  the  distinguished  post  of  croupier 
was  forthwith  assigned  to  me. 

D 


38 


A PORTUGUESE  ECCLESIASTIC. 


After  a few  minutes  passed  in  bowing  to  my  right 
and  left,  and  in  various  modes  of  telegraphic  commu- 
nication, I perceived  that  the  chair  on  the  right  of  our 
host  was  occupied  by  a portly  good-humoured  eccle- 
siastic. The  bright  idea  immediately  struck  me  that  I 
might  here  derive  some  advantage  from  my  Eton  edu- 
cation, so  I addressed  the  priest  with  a “ salve,  vir  re- 
verend issi  me,”  which  instantly  drew  his  attention,  and 
that  of  the  whole  company,  to  my  learned  self ; the 
good  priest  rose  from  his  chair  and  answered  my  salu- 
tations in  a torrent  of  complimentary  eloquence,  which 
showed  me  but  too  plainly  that  the  pronunciation  of 
Latin,  as  taught  at  Eton,  had  not  fitted  me  for  under- 
standing or  being  understood  in  conversation  with  a 
Portuguese.  But  the  good  priest  was  so  delighted  at 
the  opportunity  thus  given  him,  for  astonishing  his 
companions  with  the  learning  of  himself  and  the  Scot- 
tish grandee,  that  he  soon  found  means  to  obviate  the 
difficulty  resulting  from  the  difference  of  our  pronun- 
ciation. Two  sheets  of  paper  were  provided,  on  one  of 
which  he  wrote  me  a complimentary  address  on  my 
arrival,  assuring  me  therein  that  the  <c  Scottish  nation 
was  the  greatest  on  earth,  that  the  island  of  Pico  had 
never  been  so  honoured  before,  and  that  my  visit  would 
be  treasured  in  its  latest  annals.” 

Having  had  some  experience  in  public  dinners  in 
Britain,  1 flatter  myself  I was  not  a bad  match  for  the 
priest  at  the  weapons  which  he  had  chosen.  I assured 
him  “ that  my  feelings  of  gratification  were  too  over- 
whelming to  be  conveyed  in  words  ; that  this  was, 
without  exception,  the  proudest  moment  of  my  life,  and 
that  I congratulated  the  island  of  Pico  on  the  posses- 
sion of  a reverend  luminary  whose  learning  and  elo- 
quence were  not  inferior  to  that  of  Grotius  or  Eras- 
mus !” 

It  was  difficult  to  retain  my  gravity  while  the  good 
man  read  this  effusion  half  aloud  to  himself,  and  after- 
wards translated  it  into  Portuguese  for  the  benefit  of 
the  auditors.  Unequivocal  expressions  of  admiration 
and  satisfaction  circulated  through  the  company  ; and 
being  desirous  of  securing  an  honorable  retreat  in  or- 


PICO  WINE. 


39 


der  that  I might  continue  my  excursion,  I thought  no 
fairer  opportunity  than  the  present  could  occur  ; so  I 
withdrew  amid  bows  and  compliments  yet  more  pro- 
fuse than  those  that  accompanied  my  entrance,  and  am 
much  disappointed  if  my  name  be  not  recorded  in  Pico 
as  the  “ Admiral  Crichton”  of  this  century. 

I wished  very  much  to  ascend  the  peak,  but  was  as- 
sured it  was  impracticable  until  the  month  of  August,  in 
consequence  of  the  number  of  deep  fissures  covered 
by  soft  and  melting  snow.  I endeavoured  by  the  offer 
of  money  to  induce  several  of  the  islanders  to  accom- 
pany me  as  guides  in  the  ascent  of  the  mountain  ; but 
finding  that  they  invariably  refused,  I was  obliged 
to  give  up  the  attempt.  I understand  that  several  ac- 
tive pedestrians  have  succeeded  in  reaching  the  top, 
but  it  has  always  been  during  the  autumn  months 
that  the  ascent  has  been  successfully  attempted. 

There  is  little  or  no  society  in  Pico,  as  it  belongs 
chiefly  to  proprietors  who  reside  in  Fayal,  and  who 
visit  their  property  only  at  those  seasons  when  their 
presence  is  necessary.  Wine  is  the  sole  produce  worth 
mentioning.  The  quantity  made  in  this  island,  and 
sold  in  London  as  Madera,  is  much  greater  than  is 
generally  known,  or  than  the  English  merchants  would 
be  content  to  acknowledge.  On  the  island  it  may  be 
very  cheaply  purchased  ; it  is  always  mixed  with  a 
considerable  portion  of  brandy,  and  the  best  that  I have 
tasted  is  certainly  equal  to  Madeira  of  second  quality. 
The  whole  broad  base  of  the  peak,  and  indeed  all  that 
part  of  Pico  which  fell  under  my  observation,  is  cov- 
ered with  vineyards.  Few  of  the  orange  or  other  ver- 
dant plants  that  adorn  the  hills  of  Fayal,  are  here  to 
be  seen.  The  island  wears  altogether  a dark  and 
gloomy  aspect,  rendered  yet  more  threatening  by  the 
black  rocks  which  guard  its  shore,  and  by  the  gigan- 
tic crest  of  the  peak  which  towers  above  it  from  its 
throne  of  clouds. 

Having  re-embarked,  we  coasted  along  the  shoTe  to 
a smai  1 village  a few  miles  to  the  eastward,  where  it 
was  proposed  that  we  should  pass  the  night.  The 
evening  was  beautiful,  and  the  air  so  still  that  our  men 


40 


DISAGREEABLE  QUARTERS. 


were  obliged  to  take  to  the  oars.  I was  not  a little 
amused  at  the  strange  objurgations  with  which  they 
stimulated  each  other  to  labour  : “ Vamos,  perga, — 
perga, — vamos  coil  Deos,”  (fee. 

We  arrived  about  sunset  at  our  resting-place  ; and, 
owing  to  the  calmness  of  the  water,  effected  our  land- 
ing more  easily  than  in  the  morning.  We  took  up 
our  quarters  at  a large  empty  house,  belonging  to  a 
merchant  residing  in  Faya],  who  had  permitted  us  to 
make  what  use  we  could  of  it,  and  had  warned  us  that 
we  should  find  little  comfort  or  attendance.  The  room 
into  which  I was  shown  was  spacious  and  entirely 
devoid  of  furniture,  except  a deal  table,  a wooden  chair, 
and  an  old  bedstead  in  the  corner,  over  which  was 
spread  one  of  those  abominable  cotton  wadded  cover- 
lets, which  rarely  see  the  laundry,  and  which  are  made 
to  answer  the  purpose  of  counterpane,  blanket,  and 
sheet.  Being  somewhat  tired,  I was  rash  enough  to 
venture  my  person  on  this  uninviting  couch  ; but  in 
less  than  half  an  hour,  sustained  an  attack  sufficiently 
disagreeable  to  make  me  repent  my  audacity.  Fortu- 
nately I had  not  extinguished  the  rushlight  ; spring- 
ing out  of  bed  I seized  it,  and  bringing  it  to  the  scene 
of  battle,  found  it  positively  alive  with  the  crawling 
vermin  from  which  I had  effected  my  escape.  I took 
my  revenge  upon  ten  or  twelve  of  the  ringleaders,  who 
were  still  on  my  pillow  ; and  throwing  myself  on  the 
floor  in  a corner  of  the  room  with  my  cloak  around 
me,  was  soon  fast  asleep. 

On  the  following  morning,  we  embarked  for  the 
island  of  St.  George,  which  was  about  twenty  or 
twenty-five  miles  distant.  Although  the  sky  looked 
somewhat  threatening,  our  pilot  (who  was  an  expe- 
rienced boatman)  said  that  we  should  cross  before  the 
bad  weather  came  ; but  that  if  we  remained  an  hour 
or  two  longer,  we  might  be  detained  some  time.  On 
this  occasion  his  experience  seemed  to  have  misled 
him : we  were  not  yet  half  way  across  when  it  came 
on  to  blow  very  fresh,  and  our  small  open  boat  was 
tossed  about  like  a cockle-shell  on  the  mighty  Atlantic, 
which  began,  like  a lion  roused,  to  snort  and  roar  un- 


A STORM. 


41 


der  the  impulse  of  the  breeze.  Every  minute  the  wind 
increased  in  violence  ; black  heavy  clouds  were  piled 
in  the  western  sky,  and  gave  evidence,  not  to  be  mis- 
taken, of  an  approaching  storm.  Two  of  the  sailors, 
who  seemed  to  be  fellows  of  weak  and  cowardly  cha- 
racter, began  to  cry  and  howl,  and  call  on  all  the  saints 
in  their  calendar,  and  we  were  obliged  to  reduce  them 
to  silence  by  the  application  of  a smart  blow  from  a 
cane,  and  threats  of  still  rougher  usage. 

Our  only  hope  of  safety  now'  rested  in  the  dexterity 
of  the  pilot,  who  skilfully  eased  off  the  bows  of  his 
boat,  and  made  her  rise  buoyantly  over  the  white  am 
gry  waves  which  threatened  to  break  over  her.  All 
his  exertions,  however,  could  not  prevent  our  shipping 
et  great  deal  of  water,  which  I and  another  were  con- 
stantly employed  in  baling  out  with  our  hats.  As  we 
had  not  provided  ourselves  with  ballast  sufficient  for 

an  emergency  like  this,  Mr. and  a sailor  (the  two 

heaviest  of  the  party)  was  desired  to  lie  down  in  the 
bottom  of  the  boat  to  assist  in  keeping  her  steady.  Hav^ 
ing  reduced  our  lateen  sail  to  demensions  little  larger 
than  an  ordinary  pocket-handkerchief,  we  scudded  on 
with  fearful  speed  towards  the  port  of  Velas,  to  which 
we  were  bound. 

Every  ten  minutes,  as  they  past,  added  to  the  angry 
appearance  both  of  sea  and  sky,  and  we  were  momen? 
tarily  in  imminent  danger  of  being  swamped.  It  re- 
quired only  one  mistaken  turn  of  the  helm,  or  wrist, 
to  bring  us  in  collision  with  one  of  the  huge  breakers 
over  which  we  were  now  driving  with  such  reckless 
speed,  and  we  must  have  been  buried  under  it  in  an 
instant,  without  hope  of  rescue  or  escape.  However, 
it  pleased  Providence  that  we  should  reach  the  shore 
in  safety.  As  we  approached  the  pier,  which  protects 
the  little  fishing  harbour  of  Velas,  most  of  its  inhabi- 
tants, who  had  viewed  our  approach  with  anxiety  and 
interest,  hastened  down  to  the  beach  : when  we  stepped 
on  shore,  they  crowded  round  the  pilot,  eager  to  learn 
what  urgent  business  or  important  political  event  had 
brought  him  over  in  such  tempestuous  weather.  This 
man  had  some  dry  native  humour,  and  (having  learned 

D* 


42 


VELAS. VOLCANIC  CRATERS. 


from  Mr.  that  I had  brought  my  fowling-piece 

with  an  intention  of  shooting  a few  of  the  rabbits  which 
were  said  to  abound  in  the  hills)  he  answered  them 
very  gravely,  “ ’Tis  only  an  Englishman  come  to 
shoot  rabbits  !”  The  crowd  dispersed  with  various 
exclamations,  some  of  surprise,  others  of  incredulity, 
but  none  very  flattering  to  my  wisdom  or  prudence. 

We  lost  no  time  in  making  our  way  to  the  house 
where  we  were  to  take  up  our  quarters.  It  was  an 
unfurnished  building  of  very  moderate  dimensions. 
We  soon,  however,  procured  a table  and  a few  chairs, 
supplying  the  remainder  of  the  furniture  from  our 
own  baggage. 

Velas  is  a small  town  containing  about  3000  inhabi- 
tants ; its  situation  is  most  beautiful  and  picturesque, 
extending  along  the  shores  of  the  little  bay  that  forms 
the  harbour,  and  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  steep 
mountains  covered  with  luxuriant  shrubs  to  the  very 
summit,  among  which  I noticed  tne  orange,  lemon, 
peach,  and  vine,  which,  at  this  delightful  season,  were 
mostly  either  in  blossom  or  just  budding  into  fruit. 

The  day  after  my  arrival  I went  to  see  the  craters 
formed  by  the  last  volcanic  eruption  which  occurred 
in  1808 : they  are  about  3000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea,  and  are  seven  or  eiodit  in  number  : all  the 
little  valleys  and  watercourses  in  their  vicinity  are 
choked  by  lava,  the  main  stream  of  which,  however, 
ran  down  the  opposite  or  eastern  declivity  of  the  island ; 
there  its  course  is  marked  with  fearful  evidence.  The 
whole  summit  is  strewed  with  black  sand,  and  the  side 
of  the  hill  below  is  a wide  continued  waste  of  lava. 
Yet  even  in  the  very  midst  of  this  vast  fiery  deluge 
one  small  verdant  spot  has  been  permitted  to  remain 
(like  the  rainbow  in  the  heaven)  an  emblem  of  sparing 
mercy  amid  the  most  destructive  inflictions  of  Provi- 
dence. 

I was  much  amused  with  my  guide  telling  me  that 
the  mountain  on  which  we  stood,  was  full  of  volcanic 
fire  close  to  the  surface  ; in  proof  of  which,  he  bade 
me  put  my  finger  down  to  the  cinders  on  which  I was 
walking,  and  feel  their  excessive  heat.  I did  so,  and 


BURIED  CHURCH. 


43 


truly  enough  they  were  hot ; but  not  being  quite  such 
a simpleton  as  he  was  himself  or  believed  me  to  be,  I 
scraped  up  a few  of  the  ashes  with  my  foot,  and  bid- 
ding him  then  put  in  his  finger,  showed  him  that  the 
deeper  he  went  the  cooler  they  were,  and  that  the  heat 
proceeded  altogether  from  the  rays  of  the  sun.  Near 
the  base  of  the  hill  is  still  to  be  seen  the  steeple  of  a 
church,  emergingfrom  the  lava  under  which  the  body  of 
the  building  lies  buried.  The  inhabitants  consider  the 
extraordinary  preservation  of  this  steeple  as  a mark  of 
the  peculiar  favour  of  Heaven  for  the  spot ; and,  re- 
gardless of  the  destruction  which  overwhelmed  the 
former  village,  they  have  built  a new  one  precisely  on 
the  same  site.  There  the  vine,  the  fig,  and  the  orange, 
are  already  starting  into  luxuriance,  and  the  villagers 
point  with  confidence  to  their  antediluvian  spire,  care- 
lessly pursuing  their  daily  avocations  above  graves  of 
their  predecessors  and  the  slumbering  fire  below. 

Having  been  informed  that  the  sides  of  the  hills 
which  had  been  spared  by  the  eruption,  abounded 
with  rabbits,  I toiled  up  thither  with  my  fowling-piece 
under  a hot  sun,  the  rays  of  which  were  rendered 
more  oppressive  by  reflection  from  the  blackened  sur- 
face over  which  I walked.  The  services  of  a native 
hunter  were  engaged  for  the  occasion,  and  he  appeared 
on  the  hill  accompanied  by  half-a-dozen  curs  and  by 
three  times  as  many  boys  and  country  lads,  who  had 
come  out  to  see  the  foreigner  shoot.  The  brushwood 
was  very  thick,  and  averaged  two  or  three  feet  in 
height,  so  that  it  was  impossible  to  get  a shot,  unless 
the  rabbits  chose  to  cross  from  one  patch  of  cover  to 
the  other.  As  it  happened,  this  was  not  their  choice, 
the  hunter  whistled,  the  boys  shouted,  and  the  curs 
yelped  incessantly,  but  to  no  purpose  ; and  after  idle- 
ing  away  an  hour  or  two  in  this  profitless  sport,  I re- 
turned towards  the  town. 

The  language,  manners,  and  habits  of  the  people 
w.ere,  of  course,  much  the  same  as  those  at  Fayal ; 
nor  did  I see  any  thing  remarkable  in  their  dress,  ex- 
cepting that  of  the  females  when  goino-  to  mass.  This 
consists  of  a large  black  crape  fastened  at  the  waist, 


44 


RETURN  TO  FAYAL. 


covering  the  head,  and  passing  over  a very  wide  square 
of  pasteboard  or  wood.  It  gives  them  a most  extraor- 
dinary appearance,  and  although  it  probably  answers 
the  intended  purpose  of  protecting  the  wearer  from  the 
sun,  it  makes  the  upper  part  of  the  figure  strange  and 
disproportioned  to  the  lower. 

Fire- wood,  both  in  this  and  the  neighbouring  islands, 
is  extremely  scarce,  and  the  poorer  inhabitants  are  in 
the  habit  of  collecting  cow-dung,  which,  when  dried 
in  the  sun,  they  cut  into  squares,  piling  them  like  peat 
in  Scotland.  They  use  it  as  fuel,  and  when  once  ig- 
nited it  burns  well  and  retains  the  heat  a long  time. 
Those  who  are  familiar  with  the  writings  of  Eastern 
travellers,  must  be  well  aware  that  the  camel’s  drop- 
ping is  similarly  applied  by  the  wandering  Arab  and 
Tartar  tribes  both  in  Asia  and  Africa.* 

After  rambling  for  several  days  about  this  pretty 
picturesque  island,  I determined  to  return  to  Fayal, 
and  embarked  accordingly.  Old  Ocean  was  in  one  of 
his  tranquil  moods,  and  his  surface,  was  as  smooth 
and  still  as  a mill-pond,  affording  an  excellent  oppor- 
tunity to  those  who  might  be  fond  of  the  exercise  of 
rowing.  The  distance  being  twenty-five  miles,  we 
did  not  reach  our  destination  till  late  in  the  evening, 
and  I was  not  ill-disposed  to  enjoy  the  comfort  and 
cleanliness  of  the  consul’s  house  after  the  annoyance 
from  fleas  and  other  vermin  to  which  I had  been,  dur- 
ing my  excursion,  exposed. 

We  had  now  been  a month  in  the  Azores,  and  the 
repairs  of  the  Waverley  were  nearly  completed  ; by 
many  of  the  party  it  was  with  mingled  feelings  of  re- 
gret and  satisfaction  that  the  announcement  of  her 
readiness  for  sea  was  received.  As  I am  not  a sailor, 
and  still  less  a ship  carpenter,  I shall  not  attempt  any 
minute  description  of  the  appearance  or  causes  of  the 
leak.  When  examined,  after  heaving  down,  there 
was  a rent  or  fissure  of  about  six  feet  in  length,  and 

* I little  thought  while  writing  this  sentence,  that  on  the  following 
year  I should  be  myself  sitting,  with  a horde  of  North  American  Indians, 
round  a fire  made  of  buffalo-dung,  on  the  great  Western  Prairies  of  the 
Missouri. 


SERIOUS  AFFRAY. 


45 


capable  of  admitting  such  a body  of  water,  that  it  was 
a matter  of  astonishment  how  the  ship  had  been  kept 
so  long  afloat  at  sea.  The  captain  was  confirmed  in 
his  belief  that  the  accident  had  been  occasioned  by  a 
strain  arising  from  the  injudicious  stowage  of  iron, 
and  the  vessel  plunging  against  a heavy  sea ; but  he 
very  prudently  did  not  tell  us  a fact  of  which  he  must 
have  been  well  aware,  that,  although  a finely  propor- 
tioned and  handsomely  rigged  vessel,  she  was  some- 
what crank  in  her  timbers,  and  had  been  built  less 
with  a view  to  durability  than  to  economy  and  space. 

It  was  decided  that  we  were  to  embark  on  the  12th 
of  June,  and  the  intervening  days  were  spent  in  excur- 
sions of  pleasure  to  the  neighbouring  villas,  and  the 
evenings  in  music  and  dancing.  As  the  embarkation 
of  so  many  persons  was  a matter  of  some  time  and 
trouble,  (there  being  neither  dock  nor  pier  in  the  har- 
bour,) it  was  prudently  arranged  that  the  steerage 
passengers  should  go  on  board  on  the  lltli. 

On  the  afternoon  of  that  day  I was  enjoying  my  last 
dinner  at  the  table  of  my  hospitable  and  worthy  host, 
when  I suddenly  heard  my  name  shouted  by  a female 
voice,  with  howls  and  lamentations  not  to  be  mistaken, 
“ Oh,  your  honor,  your  honor  ! my  lord,  my  lord,  it’s 
yourself  must  come  down  to  the  beach  immediately  ; 
for  they  have  kilt  my  poor  Dennis,  and  murdered  us 
all  entirely.”  Understanding  from  her  cries  that  there 
was  no  time  to  be  lost,  I caught  up  my  walking  stick, 
and  hastened  after  her  to  the  scene  of  action,  My 
arrival,  however,  was  too  late  to  be  of  any  service  to 
the  poor  Irishman,  several  of  whom  were  stretched 
upon  the  sand,  some  severely  wounded,  and  two  or 
three  without  sense  or  motion.  As  for  poor  Dennis, 
(by  whose  wife  I had  been  summoned,)  I thought  he 
was  certainly  dead.  Upon  examining  his  head,  I 
found  that  it  had  been  cleft  open  with  a hatchet,  the 
skull  itself  was  fractured ; neither  could  we  extract 
from  the  unfortunate  man  any  symptoms  of  life.  After 
giving  a hasty  glance  at  the  other  wounded  men,  I 
found  that,  although  badly  hurt,  none  of  them  were  in 
immediate  danger. 


46 


ITS  CONSEQUENCES. 


The  report  of  the  affray  had  soon  circulated  through 
the  town,  and  assistance  was  promptly  offered  to  those 
who  were  able  to  avail  themselves  of  it.  I devoted 
myself  altogether  to  poor  Dennis,  whose  wife  was  now 
seated  on  the  beach,  holding  his  head  in  her  lap,  and 
endeavouring  to  staunch  the  blood  that  flowed  from  his 
wound.  As  he  was  a very  strong  and  powerful  man, 
and  apparently  of  a sanguine  temperament,  I thought 
(if  he  yet  indeed  lived)  that  more  danger  was  to  be 
apprehended  from  brain  fever  than  from  effusion  of 
blood,  so  I obliged  her  to  desist,  and  to  permit  the 
blood  to  flow ; and,  having  obtained  assistance,  con- 
veyed the  sufferer  to  a large  half-furnished  apartment 
which  was  called  by  courtesy  an  hospital.  I lost  no 
no  time  in  sending  for  the  nearest  surgeon  : a little 
dapper  Portuguese  came  in ; and  having  slightly 
examined  the  wound  and  the  ghastly  appearance  of 
the  patient,  he  coolly  said,  “ He  could  be  of  no  use,  for 
the  man  was  dead,”  and  soon  after  left  the  room. 

I know  not  wherefore  I had  the  impression  that  the 
poor  man  was  not  past  hope  of  recovery,  but  I sent 
immediately  for  a young  Englishman,  one  of  our 
cabin  passengers,  who  had  gone  through  his  medical 
studies,  and  having  seen  something  of  hospital  practice, 
was  about  to  push  his  fortune  in  Canada.  Even  before  his 
arrival,  the  patient  showed  some  symptoms  of  his  life  : 
a feather  moved  when  held  before  his  mouth,  a faint 
motion  betokened  the  struggle  of  returning  animation, 
and  the  joyful  cries  uttered  by  the  wife  were  almost  as 
wild  as  those  which  had  before  proceeded  from  her 
agony.  The  young  surgeon  went  about  his  difficult 
task  with  much  skill  and  self-possession.  I asked  him 
if  he  had  ever  assisted  in  the  operation  of  trepanning  ; 
— he  said  that  he  had  not,  and  had  never  seen  it  per- 
formed but  once.  All  that  he  was  able  to  do  was, 
after  shaving  away  the  hair,  to  press  gently  but  firmly 
together  the  separated  portions  of  the  cranium.  In 
this  I assisted  him  as  well  as  I was  able  : we  then  clo- 
sed the  lips  of  the  wound,  and  bound  up  his  head 
tightly  with  a strong  linen  bandage.  It  is  needless  to 
describe  the  tedious  process  of  returning  animation,  or 


IRISH  LABOURERS,  AND  47 

the  struggles  by  which  it  was  accompanied.  In  a few 
hours  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  hearing  the  poor  fel- 
low utter  a few  faint  words  of  thankfulness,  and  we 
left  him  with  the  assurance  on  the  part  of  the  young 
surgeon,  that  he  was  out  of  immediate  danger. 

But  it  is  time  that  I should  give  some  account  of 
the  dispute  which  had  led  to  this  unfortunate  affray. 
It  appears  that,  during  the  preceding  week,  several 
differences  and  quarrels  had  arisen  between  the  Irish 
labourers  and  the  Portuguese  boatman,  which  had 
more  than  once  terminated  in  blows.  The  latter  are 
generally  men  of  a vindictive  disposition  ; and  being 
somewhat  afraid  of  attacking  the  whole  body  of  Irish 
quartered  in  the  convent,  they  had  cunningly  deferred 
their  revenge  until  three-fourths  of  their  opponents 
were  re-embarked  ; and  just  as  the  last  division  were 
stepping  into  the  boat  to  join  their  companions,  a party 
of  these  fellows,  who  had  armed  themselves  with  va- 
rious weapons  employed  in  their  craft,  picked  a quar- 
rel with  them,  and  being  very  superior  in  number, 
achieved  an  easy  victory.  During  the  whole  evening 
the  consul  and  the  local  authorities  were  investigating 
and  inquiring  into  the  merits  of  the  case;  but,  as 
usual,  both  parties  were  equally  in  the  wrong,  and  it 
was  impossible  to  decide  by  whom  the  first  blow  bad 
been  struck,  or  the  first  provocation  given. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  news  of  the  row  having  reach- 
ed  the  Waverly,  a great  sensation  was  created  on  board. 
The  Paddies  declared  their  determination  to  come  on 
shore  and  revenge  their  countrymen ; a threat  which 
they  certainly  would  have  executed,  had  not  the  cap- 
tain given  strict  orders  that  no  boat  should  leave  the 
ship  under  any  pretence  whatever.  In  spite  of  this  or- 
der, one  fellow  was  so  bent  upon  trying  his  shillelagh 
on  a Portuguese  head,  that  he  actually  let  himself  down 
into  the  sea  with  an  intention  of  swimming  ashore  ; but 
being  discovered,  was  with  difficulty  compelled  to  re- 
turn. 

On  the  following  morning  the  wounded  man  had 
made  some  progress  towards  recovery,  but  he  was  still 
too  feeble  to  be  transported  on  board,  and  the  departure 


4P 


PORTUGUESE  BOATMEN. 


of  the  Waverley  was  accordingly  deferred.  The  blows 
and  injuries  received  by  the  other  Irish  (although  in 
some  cases  very  severe  and  disfiguring)  were  not  such 
as  to  cause  any  apprehension  for  their  safety  ; but  it 
was  necessary  to  watch  the  ship  closely,  in  order  to 
prevent  another  collision  between  the  hostile  parties. 

I do  not  believe  that  these  Portuguese  islanders  are  a 
brave  or  determined  race  of  men,  but  if  they  consider 
themselves  aggrieved  or  injured,  they  are  not  very  scru- 
pulous about  the  mode  of  taking  revenge.  An  incident 
which  occurred  to  myself  will  serve  to  illustrate  this 
point.  I was  walking  down  the  street  in  company  with 
a.  young  lady,  and  when  passing  the  door  of  a shop,  a 
dog  sprang  from  it,  and  barking  very  fiercely,  was  about 
to  seize  my  companion.  I placed  myself  between  her 
and  her  assailant ; and,  fortunately  having  a very  strong 
thick  stick  in  my  hand,  I met  his  attack  with  a blow 
which  felled  him  to  the  ground.  The  owner  came  out 
of  the  shop  apparently  in  a furious  passion  ; he  storm- 
ed, and  swore,  and  threatened,  with  so  much  rapidity, 
that  he  soon  went  beyond  my  small  stock  of  Portuguese 
(of  which  language  I had  now  acquired  a slight  know- 
ledge). However,  as  he  did  not  seem  to  wish  to  come 
within  reach  of  the  stick  which  had  so  rudely  received 
his  dog,  the  tongue  was  the  only  weapon  of  offence  he 
employed.  A number  of  people  now  collected  round 
the  shop  door  : and  not  wishing  to  embroil  myself,  much 
less  my  companion,  in  a street  squabble,  we  pursued  our 
way  towards  the  American  consul’s. 

At  the  time  I thought  no  more  of  the  matter  ; but 
two  days  afterwards  as  I was  passing  the  same  spot,  a 
shopkeeper  who  lived  opposite  to  the  man  whose  dog  I 
had  struck,  beckoned  me  into  his  house.  As  he  spoke 
a few  words  of  English,  he  soon  made  me  understand 
that  his  opposite  neighbour  was  a man  of  a very  mali- 
cious disposition  ; that  the  dog  had  been  either  killed 
by  the  blow,  or  so  much  hurt  that  they  had  since  been 
obliged  to  destroy  it ; and  that  he  had  more  than  once 
expressed  his  determination  to  have  my  life  if  ever  he 
could  find  me  out  of  doors  after  it  was  dark.  My  infor- 
mant strongly  urged  the  propriety  of  my  remaining  at 


LEAVE  FAYAL. 


49 


home,  for  he  was  sure  the  fellow  would  fulfil  his  pro- 
mise. I thanked  him  for  his  warning  ; but  thinking  it 
most  likely  that  this  threatening  talker  was  not  so  for- 
midable a person  as  his  neighbour  believed  him  to  be, 
I asked  my  new  friend  if  he  would  go  over  with  me  and 
faithfully  translate  the  expressions  I should  use,  promi- 
sing at  the  same  time  that  they  should  not  be  offensive, 
or  such  as  to  provoke  an  affray.  He  agreed  to  do  so  ; 
and  crossing  the  street,  we  entered  the  man’s  shop. 

As  soon  as  he  saw  me,  he  appeared  very  much  sur- 
prised, and  I desired  my  interpreter  to  inquire  of  him 
whether  it  was  true  that  he  had  more  than  once  said,  he 
would  have  my  life  if  he  found  me  in  the  street  after 
dark  ? He  seemed  a little  confused,  but  answered 
stoutly  that  “He  had  said  it,  and  he  meant  it to  which 
I answered  that  it  was  quite  fair,  and  that  I would  be 
equally  frank  with  him.  I then  stated  that  I always 
carried  a brace  of  pistols  about  my  person,  and  as  he 
had  now  declared  his  intentions,  I added  that  if  ever  I 
fell  in  with  him,  or  saw  him  abroad  after  dusk,  I should 
immediately  shoot  him.  So  I took  off  my  hat,  and  ma- 
king him  a low  bow  left  his  shop.  It  is  needless  to  add, 
that  my  idle  threat  answered  the  intended  purpose  ; for 
I never  carried  pistols  ox  any  other  defensive  weapon, 
nor  heard  any  thing  more  of  the  valiant  proprietor  of 
the  dog. 

But  to  return  from  this  digression  ; the  doctor  having 
nowdeclaredthat  Dennis  might  be  moved  on  board  with 
the  others,  we  embarked  on  the  13th,  parting  with  sin- 
cere and,  I believe,  mutual  regret,  from  those  on  whose 
hospitable  kindness  we  had  been  so  unexpectedly 
thrown.  I had  been  domesticated  in  the  house  of  the 
British  consul,  and  the  constant  aim  of  himself  and  hiss 
amiable  family  was  to  contribute  every  thing  in  their 
power  to  my  comfort ; so  well  did  they  succeed,  that  I 
almost  felt  in  leaving  them  that  I was  leaving  a home. 

The  whole  party  on  board  were  silent  and  melancholy 
and  few  words  were  interchanged,  while  the  black  rocks, 
the  white-washed  houses,  and  verdant  hills  of  Fayal, 
gradually  faded  in  the  distance. 


E 


50 


A DEAD  CALM. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

A dead  calm. — Scant  Allowance  of  Provision  during  the  Voyage. — A 
Whale  shot. — Anchor  off  Sandy  Hook. — The  Quarantine  Station. 
— View  in  the  Narrows. — Variety  of  Shipping. — Quarantine  Hospi- 
tals.— New  York. — Iced  Punch — Land  at  New  York. — An  Ameri- 
can Table  d ’ hute. — Oppressive  Heat. — Episcopalian  Church. — Cos- 
tume of  American  Ladies. — Visit  to  Rockaway. — American  Omnibus. 
— Desolate  Marsh — Reception  by  Sir  C.  Vaughan. — Rockaway. — Mint 
Julep. — The  celebrated  Compounder  of  this  Nectar. 

I will  not  detain  the  reader  by  a detailed  account  of 
our  voyage  from  the  Azores  to  New  York.  It  was  te- 
dious and  unlucky  to  an  unusual  degree.  After  pas- 
sing Flores  and  Corvo,  (the  two  westernmost  of  the 
Azores,)  we  never  once  squared  the  yards  until  we  ar- 
rived within  thirty  miles  of  New  York.  We  had  a con- 
tinued succession  of  baffling  head  winds  and  dead 
calms  ; during  the  latter,  we  lay  for  many  days  together 
in  the  midst  of  the  Mexican  Gulf  stream,  under  a sun 
of  burning  heat,  unrefreshed  by  a breath  of  air,  and  with 
no  other  amusement  than  to  watch  the  sails  idly  flap- 
ping against  the  mast,  and  gambols  of  the  dolphins,  black 
fish,  and  other  tenants  of  the  western  main. 

The  average  voyage  from  Fayal  to  New  York  being 
estimated  at  sixteen  days,  the  captain  justly  considered 
himself  sufficiently  provided  when  he  had  taken  in  sup- 
plies for  twenty-six  ; indeed,  in  respect  to  some  articles, 
such  as  fowls  sheep,  (fee.  I believe  our  provisions  had 
exhausted  the  whole  island  market.  When  we  had 
been  a month  at  sea,  of  course  we  were  reduced  to  a 
somewhat  scant  allowance,  and  to  other  annoyances 
was  added  the  failure  of  our  stock  of  oranges,  of  which 
we  had  laid  in  a great  many  chests,  and  which  we  con- 
sidered a luxury  preferable  to  wine  or  any  other  refresh- 
ment. 

The  only  incident  worthy  of  mention  which  occur- 
red during  this  tedious  voyage,  was  one  which  I should 


A WHALE  SHOT. 


51 


be  afraid  to  relate,  had  it  not  been  witnessed  by  a 
whole  ship’s  company. 

On  the  evening  of  the  22d  June,  several  whales  were 
playing  round  the  ship.  I was  on  deck  with  my  dou- 
ble-barrelled rifle,  and  was  talking  near  the  bows  of  the 
ship  with  an  old  sailor  who  had  served  many  years  on 
board  a whaler.  As  one  of  the  whales  came  up  above 
the  water,  not  more  than  thirty  or  forty  yards  distant, 
he  directed  me  to  aim  about  three  feet  behind  the  head, 
and  rather  low  in  the  body ; I obeyed  his  instructions, 
and  lodged  both  the  balls  within  a few  inches  of  each 
other  in  the  part  he  had  pointed  out.  They  pierced  the 
thick  coat  of  blubber,  and  both  probably  entered  the 
heart ; for  after  a few  convulsive  struggles,  which  dis- 
coloured the  water  with  blood  and  fat  for  many  yards 
around,  the  unfortunate  whale  turned  upon  his  back, 
and  ere  he  had  floated  past  the  stern  of  the  ship  was  per- 
fectly dead.  We  had  no  tackle  on  board  proper  for 
heaving  him  up,  and  the  evening  being  too  far  advan- 
ced to  permit  the  captain  to  lower  his  boats,  no  advan- 
tage could  be  derived  from  this  accidental  shot,  which 
might  otherwise  have  furnished  us  with  several  barrels 
of  oil.  I had,  on  several  other  occasions,  struck  the 
whales  and  black  fish  which  played  round  the  ship, 
with  balls  from  the  same  rifle,  but  without  any  other 
apparent  effect  than  'making  them  lash  the  water  with 
their  tail  and  go  down  for  a few  seconds,  after  which 
they  appeared  again  on  the  surface,  pursuing  their  pas» 
time  as  if  nothing  had  occurred  to  disturb  it. 

On  the  26th  of  July,  having  been  at  sea  six  weeks, 
dieted  for  the  last  ten  days  upon  mouldy  biscuit,  salt 
junk,  and  a very  short  allowance  of  very  foul  offensive 
water,  we  hailed  with  no  little  satisfaction,  the  cry  of 
11  land  a-head.”  This  first  point  of  the  American  con- 
tinent which  met  our  view,  proved  to  be  the  high  land 
of  New  Jersey ; and  on  the  following  morning,  we 
came  to  anchor  off  Sandy  Hook. 

On  the  morning  of  the  28th  we  beat  up  the  Narrows 
to  the  quarantine  station  on  Staten  Island,  where  our 
ship  was  subjected  to  two  days’  quarantine.  There 
being  no  sickness  on  board,  the  cabin  passengers  were 


52 


VIEW  IN  THE  NARROWS. 


allowed  by  a medical  certificate  to  go  on  shore  ; but 
this  permission  was  not  extended  to  any  of  the  steerage 
passengers  or  to  the  baggage. 

The  view  on  sailing  up  the  Narrows  is  very  beauti- 
ful. The  coast  of  Staten  Island  on  one  side  and  Long 
Island  on  the  other,  is  undulating  and  well  wooded. — 
The  bay  stretching  across  from  the  station  to  New  York 
is  extensive  and  admirably  adapted  to  shipping.  I was 
particularly  struck  by  the  cleanly  and  graceful  rigging 
oflhe  various  vessels  which  were  crossing  it  in  all  di- 
rections. Here  was  to  be  seen  the  majestic  China-man 
floating  gently  down  under  a crowd  of  canvass  before 
the  light  breeze.  There  the  Baltimore  clipping  brig 
with  her  sharp  bows,  her  low  hull,  and  raking  masts. — 
Nearer  to  the  shore  might  be  seen  “ creeping  like  snail” 
the  coasting  timber-craft,  and  in  mid-channel  the  gor- 
geous steamer  with  her  painted  bulwarks  and  crowded 
decks,  passing  her  lazy  competitors  with  insulting  speed. 
Amidst  all  these,  news’  boats,  and  pilot  boats,  and  other 
light  shallops,  were  darting  about  from  ship  to  ship  to 
“ welcome  the  coming  and  speed  the  parting  friend.” 

All  this  gave  life  and  animation  to  the  scene,  enhan- 
cing its  natural  beauty  ; but  in  spite  of  all  these  advan- 
tages, and  of  its  incomparable  superiority  in  space  and 
magnificence  as  a harbour,  I cannot  help  thinking  that 
the  descriptions  given  of  this  bay  by  some  travellers, 
have  been  too  highly  coloured  ; for  there  is  nothing 
bold  or  striking  on  either  shore,  and  the  eye  feels  the 
absence  of  a distant  outline  on  which  it  may  rest,  such 
as  is  formed  by  the  Alpine  and  irregular  chain  of  moun- 
tains which  fill  the  back  ground  of  the  landscape,  in 
sailing  up  the  Firth  of  Clyde.  The  quarantine  hospi- 
tals are  lofty  and  spacious  buildings,  situated  on  a slo- 
ping bank  overlooking  the  bay,  and  sheltered  by  a wood. 
They  are  whitewashed ; and  all  the  windows  being 
furnished  with  green  Venetian  blinds,  give  an  appear- 
ance of  comfort  and  cleanliness,  which  is  well  main- 
tained by  their  admirable  internal  arrangements. 

My  first  desire  on  landing  was  to  procure  a glass  of 
fresh  water,  a luxury  so  long  unknown.  On  applying 
for  some  cool  draught,  a glass  of  excellent  iced  punch 


NEW  YORK. ICED  PUNCH. 


53 


was  put  into  my  hands.  Two  goblets  of  this  delicious 
beverage  did  I quaff,  when  the  intense  heat  of  the  wea- 
ther, and  the  quarantine  hospital  immediately  opposite 
to  me,  conjured  up  before  my  eyes  the  spectre  of  cho- 
lera, and  a call  for  the  third  died  upon  my  lips. 

In  forty  minutes  we  had  crossed  the  bay,  and  landed 
at  New  York,  near  the  battery  ; a sort  of  round  wooden 
building,  with  an  adjacent  garden,  which  appears  to 
answer  the  purpose  of  a kind  of  Marine  Vauxhall. — 
Here  we  hired  a hack,  (for  so  is  a New  York  hackney 
coach  denominated,)  and  drove  to  the  American  hotel, 
a distance  of  about  three  quarters  of  a mile.  On  arri- 
ving we  inquired  the  coachman’s  charge,  and  found  that 
here,  as  elsewhere,  a stranger  runs  considerable  risk  of 
submitting  to  an  operation  which  passes  in  England  by 
the  various  names  of “ being  done.”  “ screwed,”  “ taken 
in,”  “sold,”  “ fleeced,”  &c.  In  America  the  appropriate 
phrase  is  “ shaved;”  and  the  fare  due  being  three  shil- 
lings, our  Jehu  modestly  required  only  three  dollars. — 
After  some  dispute  we  gave  him  two  and  a half ; and 
as  he  went  away,  one  would  have  thought,  from  the  ex- 
pression of  his  face  that  we  had  cheated  him,  although 
the  fellow  had  received  more  than  five  shillings  above 
his  fare. 

In  justice  to  America  I must  subjoin  two  observa- 
tions ; first,  that  this  class  of  street  plunderer  is  common 
to  every  city  in  Europe  ; and,  secondly,  that  the  indivi- 
dual in  question  was  evidently  from  that  “ first  gem  of 
the  sea”  whose  sons  perform  the  greater  portion  of  labo- 
rious and  domestic  service  throughout  the  Transatlan- 
tic cities. 

At  five  o’clock  I dined  for  the  first  time  at  an  Ameri- 
can table  d’hote , and  I certainly  never  saw,  at  any  hotel 
in  Europe,  a dinner  for  so  large  a party  served  in  bet- 
ter style,  or  with  less  confusion.  The  dishes  were  very 
numerous,  and  the  cookery  respectable.  I observed  also 
that  the  knives,  glasses,  plates,  &c.  were  remarkably 
clean,  the  table-cloth  of  the  finest  quality,  and  that  ice 
was  applied  in  a profusion  not  less  unexpected  than 
agreeable  to  the  water,  salad,  cucumber,  butter,  & c. 

In  answer  to  my  inquiries,  I learnt  from  one  of  my 

E* 


54 


AMERICAN  TABLE  D’HOTE. 


neighbours  that  this  was  called  the  ladie’s  ordinary, 
being  attended  by  the  families  resident  in  the  house, 
and  that  the  usual  public  table  d hote  was  daily  at 
two  o’clock,  so  that  if  I chose  to  attend  it,  I should 
witness  a very  different  scene  from  the  well-conducted 
table  now  before  me.  I certainly  remarked  that  there 
was  less  conversation  than  at  a German  table  d’hote , 
perhaps  even  less  than  at  an  English  public  table ; 
and  although  the  dinner  was  a ceremony  quickly  des- 
patched there  was  neither  haste  nor  scrambling,  such 
as  travellers  are  led  to  expect.* 

The  heat  of  the  weather  was  intense  to  a degree  of 
which  I had  never  formed  any  idea.  In  the  evening 
I strove  in  vain  to  find  a cool  breath  of  air  among  the 
trees  in  the  park,  or  in  the  streets  ; I retired  to  my 
own  room,  threw  off  my  clothes,  and  opened  the  win- 
dows, all  to  no  purpose  ; I could  neither  sit,  nor  walk, 
nor  lie  still,  without  continual  perspiration  so  profuse  that 
I really  felt  as  if  nature  could  not  endure  it  for  many 
hours.  This  state  of  oppression  will  cause  little  sur- 
prise when  I inform  the  reader  that  in  a thorough 
draft  of  open  air,  at  eleven  o’clock  at  night,  the  ther- 
mometer stood  at  98°  of  Fahrenheit,  a height  which  I 
am  told  it  rarely  attains  under  similiar  circumstances 
in  the  most  sultry  regions  in  British  India. 

* It  must  not  be  supposed  that  the  foregoing  account  is  intended  to 
impugn  the  accuracy  of  the  statements  which  have  been  so  often  laid  be- 
fore the  public,  of  the  greedy  haste  and  confusion  which  are  usually  ob- 
servable at  American  tavern  dinners  : on  the  contrary,  these  are  deserving 
of  all  the  strong  animadversions  which  have  been  bestowed  upon  them. — 
I should  probably  be  accused  of  entertaining  the  prejudices  universally  at- 
tributed to  British  travellers  in  the  United  States,  if  I were  to  express  my- 
self in  terms  only  half  as  strong  as  those  contained  in  the  subjoined  ex- 
tract from  the  National  Intelligencer , published  at  Washington,  Nov.  20, 
1836. — “ Several  persons  have  died  in  New  York  lately,  by  being  choked 
with  edibles,  at  their  meals.  This  is  the  result  of  the  bolting  system,  which 
is  so  generally  adopted  among  our  people.  We  wonder  that  disasters  of 
this  kind  are  not  more  frequent  than  they  are.  A practice  so  pernicious 
and  so  detrimental  to  health  as  quick  eating — to  say  nothing  of  its  positive 
danger — does  not  exist  in  the  country.  At  the  table  d’hote  of  an  inn, 
where  great  numbers  convene  together,  the  process  of  bolting  would  seem 
to  be  done  by  steam,  and  those  who  perform  it  jaw-moving  automata. — 
They  sit  down  and  rise  up  simultaneously,  accompanied  by  the  quick-time 
music  of  knives  and  forks,  sallying  forth  on  the  instant  to  use  their  quills, 
and  smoke  their  segars  at  leisure.  The  habit  is  a bad  one.” 


AMERICAN  OMNIBUS. 


55 


On  the  morning  of  Sunday  the  27th,  I went  to  the 
episcopalian  church  of  St.  Paul,  in  the  Broadway. 
The  service  there  performed  was  slightly  altered  from 
the  English  liturgy  : some  of  the  alterations  are  of 
course  necessary,  others  (such  as  the  curtailing  or 
omitting  frequent  repetitions)  appeared  to  me  judicious, 
and  few,  if  any,  can  be  censured  as  departing  either 
in  spirit  or  in  tone  from  the  pure  model  on  which  they 
are  formed.  There  was  nothing  either  in  the  music 
or  in  the  sermon,  to  distinguish  them  from  the  average 
of  our  own  churches. 

In  spite  of  the  extreme  heat,  I contrived  to  lounge 
for  half  an  hour  in  Broadway,  to  observe  the  crowd 
passing  to  and  from  the  different  places  of  worship. 
The  dress  of  the  ladies  partook  generally  rather  of 
French  than  of  English  costume  ; and  the  number  of 
pretty  faces  and  small  delicate  feet  that  passed  me  in 
that  short  walk,  led  me  to  believe  that  the  encomiums 
which  I had  so  frequently  read  upon  American  beauty 
were  not  undeserved.* 

Having  ascertained  that  the  British  minister,  Sir  C. 
Yaughan,  was  at  Rock  way,  (a  bathing-place  ri  about 
twenty  miles  from  New  York,)  I proceeded  thither  irx 
a kind  of  light  omnibus,  or  stage.  I could  not  help 
being  struck  by  an  amusing  commentary  on  the  vanity 
with  which  travellers  charge  the  Americans,  which 
was  furnished  by  the  Marine  stage.  On  both  sides  of 
the  vehicle  there  was  a painting  of  a splendid  Grecian 
building,  surmounted  by  a lofty  cupola,  and  having  in 
its  front  a lawn  covered  with  shrubs,  cypresses,  (Ac. 
all  of  which  was  meant  to  represent  the  place  of  our 

* From  reading  Captain  Hamilton’s  “Men  and  Manners  in  America,”  (a 
work  of  which  I acknowledge  the  ability,  while  I dissent  from  many  of  the 
author’s  views,)  I had  been  led  to  expect  great  annoyance  and  inconve- 
nience in  landing  my  baggage  from  the  ship ; I was  therefore  agreeably 
surprised  when  I found  that  the  search  was  less  strict  than  that  made  at 
the  custom-house  in  Liverpool  ; neither  oath  nor  affidavit  was  required  of 
me  ; my  servant  brought  all  my  baggage  easily  ashore,  and  I never  saw  the 
functionary  whose  proceedings  seem  so  much  to  have  irritated  Captain 
Hamilton.  (Vide  “Men  and  Manners  in  America,”  vol.  i.  page  15.) — 
The  talented  author  of  that  work  Wrote  it  with  the  avowed  intention  of  ab- 
juring all  prejudice,  and  doubtless  believed  that  he  was  altogether  impartial, 
the  reader  may  judge  by  comparing  page  20  of  the  same  volume. 


56 


DESOLATE  MARSH. 


destination.  On  arriving,  I found  a large  square  wooden 
house,  with  a colonnade  of  wooden  pillars ; but  no 
cupola,  lawn,  or  trees,  were  to  be  seen  ! Upon  inquir- 
ing the  meaning  of  this,  I was  informed  that  the  pic- 
ture represented  what  they  intended  the  house  to  be 
either  this  or  the  following  season. 

For  the  first  twelve  or  fourteen  miles,  the  country 
through  which  we  passed  was  enclosed  and  neatly 
cultivated  ; but  as  it  approaches  Rockaway,  the  road 
leads  over  a wide  swamp  or  marsh,  the  desolate  barren- 
ness of  which  I was  unable  justly  to  appreciate,  being 
engaged  in  a vain,  but  unceasing  conflict  with  the 
musquitoes,  which  were  in  endless  swarms,  and  which 
effectually  withdrew  my  attention  from  the  scene 
around. 

On  arriving,  I found  my  friend,  Sir  C.  Vaughan,  at 
tea,  in  a large  room  where  there  were  a hundred 
persons  at  table.  When  I appeared  beside  his  chair, 
and  called  him  by  name,  he  looked  quite  bewildered, 
and  seemed  somewhat  inclined  to  doubt  the  evidence 
of  his  senses  ; for,  having  known  that  I had  embarked 
nearly  four  months  before,  and  having  heard  that  our 
ship  had  been  lost,  he  thought  me  drowned.  Very 
few  minutes,  however,  explained  how  matters  stood  ; 
and  it  was  with  no  small  pleasure  that  I found  myself 
seated  by  a neighbour,  with  whom  I could  enjoy  the 
double  gratification  of  talking  over  subjects  of  mutual 
interest  at  home,  and  of  acquiring  information  and 
introductions  calculated  to  be  useful  during  my  resi- 
dence in  the  United  States. 

Rockaway  consists  of  a few  scattered  boarding-houses 
and  the  marine  hotel,  the  interior  of  which  is  more 
spacious  and  comfortable  than  I was  led  to  believe 
from  its  external  appearance  ; the  sea-beach  is  admira- 
bly adapted  for  bathing,  and  the  place  may  be  said  to 
bear  the  same  relation  to  New  York,  that  Brighton 
bears  to  London,  excepting  that  it  is,  in  comparison, 
more  limited  in  its  extent. 

I spent  two  or  three  days  here  very  agreeably,  being 
at  once  introduced  to  many  members  of  the  best  so- 
ciety from  all  parts  of  the  Union.  During  the  morning 


MINT  JULEP. 


57 


we  strolled  on  the  shore,  bathed,  rode,  or  drove  about 
in  light  carriages,  which  the  active  horses  of  this  country- 
draw  at  a speed  truly  surprising  : the  evenings  were 
passed  in  music  or  dancing  ; and  after  the  ladies  re- 
tired, I joined  some  of  the  younger  men  of  the  party, 
in  smoking  a cigar  under  the  verandah,  fanned  by  the 
cool  night  breeze  from  the  sea,  and  making  my  first 
acquaintance  with  a beverage  approaching  more  nearly 
to  nectar  than  any  that  I had  ever  tasted  or  imagined. 
The  American  reader  will  at  once  know  how  to  apply 
this  panegyric ; but  how  shall  I attempt  to  convey  to 
English  senses  all  thy  fragrant  merits  ? divine  mint 
julep  ! This  delicious  compound  (which  is  sometimes 
in  the  southern  and  western  states  denominated  “ hail- 
storm”) is  usually  made  with  wine,  (madeira  or  claret,) 
mingled  in  a tumbler  with  a soupcon  of  French  brandy, 
lime,  and  lemon,  ice  pulverised  by  attrition,  and  a 
small  portion  of  sugar,  the  whole  being  crowned  with 
a bunch  of  fresh  mint,  through  which  the  liquor  per- 
colates before  it  reaches  the  drinker’s  lips  and  “laps 
him  in  Elysium.”  This  beverage  is  supposed  to  be 
of  southern  origin,  and  the  methods  of  preparing  it 
vary  in  the  different  states ; some  Carolinians  will 
assert  that  it  can  only  be  found  in  perfection  at  Charles- 
ton ; but  I believe,  that  by  common  consent,  the 
immortal  Willard  (who  kept  the  bar  of  the  city  hotel 
in  New  York  for  many  years)  was  allowed  to  be  the 
first  master  of  this  art  in  the  known  world.  The  name 
of  this  remarkable  personage  is  familiar  to  every  Ameri- 
can, and  to  every  foreigner  who  has  visited  the  States 
during  the  last  thirty  years ; I have  heard  many  cal- 
culations of  the  number  of  mint  juleps  that  he  has  been 
known  to  compound  in  one  day,  and  of  the  immense 
profits  resulting  to  the  hotel  from  his  celebrity  ; but 
not  having  written  them  down  at  the  moment,  I will 
not  venture  on  a vague  statement  here.  His  memory 
was  yet  more  surprising  than  skill  at  concoction  ; of 
the  hundreds  and  thousands  who  went  in  to  enjoy 
practical  demonstration  of  the  latter,  he  never  forgot  a 
face,  or  a name  if  once  mentioned ; even  although  the 
individual  were  absent  for  years,  he  could  at  once 


58 


EXPEDITION  UP  THE  HUDSON# 


address  him  as  though  he  had  been  introduced  but 
yesterday. 

But  I must  return  from  this  digression  to  New  York, 
whither  I accompanied  the  minister  and  my  other 
friends  after  this  short  but  agreeable  visit  to  Rocka- 
way. 


CHAPTER  Y. 

Expedition  up  the  Hudson  River. — Scene  of  the  Death  of  Hamilton. — • 
Cooper,  the  American  Novelist. — Scenery  of  West  Point. — Nursery 
for  the  American  Army. — The  Cadets. — Albany. — The  Patroon. — 
Railroad  to  Sara  toga. — Watering  Places. — Mineral  Water. — Ballston. — 
The  Trenton  Falls. — An  Extra  Exclusive. — The  Prison  at  Auburn. — 
miserable  Appearance  of  the  Prisoners. — Geneva. — Canandaigua. — 
Eminent  Scottish  Agriculturist. — Genesee. — Mr.  W. — Fertile  Mea- 
dows.— Falls  of  Niagara. 

After  spending  a few  days  at  New- York,  I started, 
in  company  with  a friend  belonging  to  the  British 
Legation,  on  the  expedition  up  the  Hudson  river,  to 
which  I had  so  long  looked  forward  with  eager  expec- 
tation, and  found  myself  embarked  in  the  steam-boat 
Albany,  on  Monday  the  12th  of  August.  The  morn- 
ing was  thick  and  misty,  and  the  rain  fell  in  torrents, 
so  that  I feared  it  would  be  impossible  to  see  either 
bank  of  this  magnificent  river.  However,  the  fog  gra- 
dually rose,  and  I could  then  discern  a succession  of 
pretty  villas,  lawns,  and  woods,  not  unlike,  in  some 
respects,  those  that  crown  the  royal-towered  Thames, 
I could  scarcely  distinguish  the  spot  pointed  out  to  me 
as  the  scene  of  the  death  of  the  illustrious  Hamilton 
who  fell  in  a duel  with  Colonel  Burr,  and  whose 
monument  is  now  in  the  cemetery  of  Trinity  Church, 
New  York,  where  his  remains  sleep  ^honoured  by  the 
well-deserved  praises  bestowed  upon  him  as  “ The 
patriot  of  incorruptible  integrity,  the  soldier  of  appro- 


SCENERY  OF  WEST  POINT. 


59 


ved  valour,  and  the  statesman  of  consummate  wis- 
dom.” 

About  twelve  or  thirteen  miles  from  New  York,  I 
had  great  pleasure  in  finding  among  the  passengers 
Mr.  Cooper  the  American  novelist,  to  whonii  had  been 
introduced  by  Mr.  Rogers  some  years  ago  in  London, 
and  who  was  now  on  his  way  to  his  native  place, 
Cooperstown.  He  was  kind  enough  to  point  out  the 
scenes  of  the  unfortunate  Andre’s  execution,  and  the 
treacherous  Arnold’s  escape,  and  to  communicate  seve- 
ral interesting  particulars  relative  to  that  transaction, 
as  well  as  to  other  events  during  the  war.  I was  sorry 
that  my  disembarkation  at  West  Point  deprived  me  of 
the  advantage  of  so  able  and  agreeable  a commentator 
on  the  scenery  of  the  Hudson.* 

On  landing  at  West  Point,  and  climbing  the  hill  on 
the  summit  of  which  stands  the  hotel,  (which,  by  the 
by,  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  comfortable  I have  yet 
seen,)  I was  astonished  and  delighted  at  the  varied 
beauty  of  the  scenery.  The  promontory  projects  into 
the  Huson,  whose  ample  stream  is  perpetually  crowded 
with  vessels  of  every  description.  The  surrounding 
mountains  are  wooded  to  their  very  tops.  The  small 
plain  is  covered  with  the  white  tents  of  the  cadets, 
who  are  in  camp  during  this  season  ; and  above  it  rise 
the  ruins  of  Fort  Putnam,  built  upon  rocks  six  hun- 
dred feet  high,  and  well  calculated,  from  its  command- 
ing position,  and  association  with  the  history  of  the 
war,  to  inspire  the  young  soldiers  with  an  enthusiastic 
love  for  the  glorious  and  beautiful  scene  of  their  fath- 
ers’ triumphs. 

It  is  well  known  that  this  is  the  nursery  for  the 
American  army.  The  cadets  are  about  two-hundred 
in  number  ; and  from  them  the  troops  are  chiefly,  if 
not  altogether  officered.  In  the  winter  they  live  in 

* Let  not  the  reader  imagine  that  I underrate  the  beauty  of  the  scenery 
► through  which  this  noble  river  flows.  It  deserves  all  the  praises  bestowed 
upon  it  by  other  travellers  ; but  the  rain  and  mist  which  enveloped  it 
during  this  excursion  prevented  me  from  enjoying  its  charms  ; and  though 
I ascended  this  river  a dozen  times  at  a latter  date,  I have  thought  it  bet- 
ter to  leave  this  part  of  my  journal  as  it  originally  stood. 


60 


MILITARY  COLLEGE. 


the  barracks,  and  pursue  the  theoretic  branches  of 
their  professional  studies ; while  during  the  summer 
months,  they  bivouac  in  tents,  each  of  which  contains 
three  cadets,  and  they  spend  all  their  time  in  various 
military  manoeuvres.  The  discipline  seems  strict,  and 
the  regulations  for  maintaining  order  and  temperance 
very  severe.  They  seem  to  have  no  punishment  but 
dismissal. 

To  the  cursory  observation  of  an  unprofessional 
traveller,  several  branches  of  the  system  appear  capa- 
ble of  improvement.  In  the  first  place,  each  cadet  must 
remain  his  full  term  of  four  years  (generally  from  six- 
teen to  twenty),  whether  he  be  quick  and  industrious, 
or  dull  and  idle,  the  only  difference  being  that  on  final 
examination  the  latter  will  be  dismissed  as  incompe- 
tent, while  the  former  will  probably  obtain  the  first 
vacant  commission.  It  would  certainly  appear,  that 
the  mode  adopted  by  the  British  Naval  College  at 
Portsmouth,  of  allowing  a young  man  to  shorten  his 
time  and  distinguish  his  character,  by  industry  and 
ability,  is  preferable.  In  the  second  place,  it  is  difficult 
to  see  why  four  or  five  of  the  months  should  be  spent 
altogether  in  drills  and  manoeuvres  to  the  total  exclu- 
sion of  all  the  studies  pursued  in  the  winter. 

I spoke  to  two  or  three  of  the  cadets,  and  they  in- 
formed me,  that  during  the  encampment  they  seldom 
opened  a book  ; and  from  what  I observed  of  the  list- 
less languid  sauntering  of  the  whole  mass  after  drill 
and  parade,  I do  not  question  the  accuracy  of  their 
statement.  Doubtless  the  manual  and  practical  exer- 
cises are  very  fatiguing,  but  it  is  very  certain  that 
such  a quantum  of  bodily  labour  as  totally  incapaci- 
tates a young  man’s  mind  for  moderate  study,  must  be 
fatal  to  the  professional  advancement  of  an  officer, 
even  if  it  be  requisite  for  the  mechanical  proficiency 
of  a private,  which  I very  much  doubt.  There  seemed 
to  be  no  running,  leaping,  playing  at  quoits,  cricket, 
rior  any  other  amusement ; and  altogether  I could  not 
help  remarking  the  want  of  that  blithe,  frank,  joyous 
expression  of  countenance  that  is  observable  in  youths 
of  the  same  age  in  England.  They  were  generally 


ALBANY. 


61 


grave  and  reserved  ; and  I certainly  did  not  see  in  the 
whole  corps  one  single  face  or  figure  that  could  be 
pronounced  strikingly  handsome ; and  this  is  the 
more  remarkable,  as  their  mothers  and  sisters  are 
certainly  in  as  high  an  average  of  beauty  as  any 
women  in  the  world.  I should  add,  however,  that  I 
gathered  my  information  respecting  this  establishment 
from  conversation  with  some  of  the  cadets,  and  not 
from  the  officers  or  authorities,  whose  acquaintance  I 
had  not  time  nor  opportunity  to  cultivate. 

After  leaving  West  Point,  we  pursued  our  way  in 
the  steam  boat  up  the  Hudson  as  far  as  Albany,  passing 
through  beautiful  scenery,  leaving  on  our  right  Hyde 
Park,  and  a number  of  prettily  wooded  villas,  and  on 
our  left  the  Catskill  mountains.  Albany,  the  capital 
of  New  York,  it  is  one  of  the  oldest  settlements  in  the 
United  States ; I believe  the  first  in  the  upper  states, 
having  been  settled  in  1612.  It  is  a busy  and  prospe- 
rous town  ; and  as  it  forms  the  termination  both  of 
the  Erie  canal,  and  of  the  Hudson  and  Mohawk  rail- 
road, is  a place  of  much  commercial  activity,  t,  The 
population  is  estimated  at  twenty-eight  thousand,  and 
this  city  may  be  pronounced  the  greatest  emporium  of 
internal  trade  in  the  United  States.  Estimates  taken 
last  year  (1833)  and  based  upon  accurate  calculations, 
compute  the  value  of  goods  brought  into  it  through  the 
Erie  and  Champlain  canals,  at  two  millions  and  a half 
sterling. 

The  capitol,  and  several  other  public  buildings 
appeared  worthy  of  notice,  but  I had  not  time  to  visit 
them  on  this  occasion.  The  principal  proprietor  in 
the  neighbourhood  is  General  Stephen  Yan  Rensselaer, 
better  known  by  the  appellation  of  the  Patroon,  who  is 
mentioned  in  the  books  of  all  American  travellers  as 
one  of  the  largest  landholders  in  the  States.  I had  the 
pleasure  of  being  introduced  to  this  respectable  and 
venerable  old  gentleman  at  Saratoga. 

After  leaving  Albany  we  proceeded  by  the  railroad 
through  Schenectady  to  Saratoga.  This  line  of  rail- 
road is  admirably  contrived  to  answer  all  the  purposes 
of  speed,  safety,  and  economy ; although  the  first  of 

F 


62 


WATERING  PLACES. 


these  qualities,  it  is  not  to  be  compared  with  the 
Liverpool  and  Manchester  line.  The  soil  appears 
principally  sand  ; and,  except  in  one  or  two  instances, 
I should  not  conceive  the  formation  of  the  railroad  to 
have  been  attended  with  much  difficulty. 

We  were  rather  unfortunate  as  to  the  time  at  which 
we  visited  Saratoga — the  Cheltenham  of  the  States,  as 
most  of  the  parties  whom  we  had  calculated  upon 
meeting  there,  had  left  it  the  day  before  we  arrived, 
and  there  were  few  “ fashionables”  remaining.  In  fact, 
it  is  the  fashion  to  make  the  round  of  all  the  watering- 
places,  (Rockaway,  Saratoga,  Ballston,  Lebanon,)  in 
regular  succession,  and  an  unfortunate  traveller  who 
happens,  as  we  did,  to  be  rather  late  in  starting,  may 
follow  the  gay  route,  and  never  catch  its  most  agree- 
able parties. 

The  Congress  Spring  at  Saratoga  is,  I believe,  one 
of  the  most  medicinal  natural  waters  in  the  world ; 
and  the  cures  that  it  is  said  to  have  performed  are 
numerous  and  extraordinary.  It  is  delightfully  cool, 
and  not  unpleasant  to  the  taste;  but  if  taken  without  due 
care  and  attention,  it  produces  violent  headache,  and 
sometimes  more  serious  consequences. 

After  spending  a day  or  two  at  Saratoga,  I returned 
to  Ballston,  which  is  a very  pleasant  village  and  also 
a place  of  great  resort,  from  the  excellence  of  its  min- 
eral springs,  which  are  supposed  to  possess  more  tonic 
qualities  than  those  at  Saratoga  ; from  thence  by  Sche- 
nectady to  the  Trenton  Falls,  through  a cultivated  and 
well- wooded  country,  and  passing  some  of  the  exten- 
sive property  of  Sir  Frederic  Johnston.  I had  heard 
so  much  of  these  Falls,  that  I own  I was  much  disap- 
pointed in  visiting  them.  The  scenery  of  this  country 
is  upon  so  magnificent  a scale,  and  its  rivers  so  vast 
and  deep,  that  I expected  to  see  torrents  and  waterfalls, 
such  as  I had  never  before  beheld.  The  scenery  is 
certainly  very  pretty ; the  banks  are  richly  clothed 
with  wood,  and  the  fall  of  water  is  considerable  enough 
to  arrest  and  please  the  eye ; but  unless  my  memory 
very  much  deceives  me,  these  Falls  would  gain  noth- 
ing by  comparison  with  the  Falls  of  Fyers,  Bruar,  and 


PRISON  AT  AUBURN.  63 

others  that  I have  seen  in  the  highlands  of  Scotland 
(if  the  latter  are  visited  atter  a rainy  season).  The 
limestone  rocks  over  which  they  run  are  certainly  bold 
and  precipitous,  but  the  eye  (at  least  the  eye  of  a 
Scotchman)  misses  sadly  the  brown  heather,  the 
frowning  precipice  with  its  weeping  birch  and  scathed 
and  gnarled  fir,  and,  above  all,  the  blue  and  distant 
mountain  ridge  that  completes  and  perfects  the  pic- 
ture. 

After  being  jolted  some  fifteen  miles  over  an  execra- 
ble road  in  an  “ extra-exclusive,”*  we  arrived  at  Utica, 
whence  we  proceeded  to  Auburn  ; — a village  the  name 
of  which  is  interesting  to  all  Europe  from  its  being 
the  seat  of  the  New  York  State’s  prison.  This  cele- 
brated establishment  is  now  so  familiar  to  every  Euro- 
pean reader,  that  a detailed  description  of  it  is  un- 
necessary, and  I shall  confine  myself  to  such  observa- 
tions as  naturally  suggested  themselves  to  me  on  visit- 
ing it. 

The  mass  of  building  is  solid  and  imposing,  and  al- 
together well  suited  to  the  gloomy  character  of  the 
place  ; but  its  effect  is  totally  destroyed  by  an  absurd 
nondescript  set  of  pinnacles  on  the  top  of  the  building, 
in  the  midst  of  which  is  a representation  of  a sentinel 
with  a ipusket.  Whether  he  is  meant  as  a scare-crow 
to  the  prisoners  or  not,  I cannot  tell  ; but  I am  sure 
that  he  and  the  litter  of  pinnacles  around  him  are  a 
grievous  annoyance  to  the  eye. 

As  far  as  I am  able  to  judge,  the  published  accounts 
of  the  discipline  and  arrangements  are  substantially 
correct.  I walked  through  all  the  shops  in  which  the 
prisoners,  were  at  labour  ; and  I must  say  that  so  mis- 
erable, jaded,  desponding  a row  of  faces  I never  be- 
held— such  sunken  lacklustre  eyes  I never  encoun- 
tered. I made  careful  observation  on  all  that  I saw, 
and  cannot  help  praising  the  cleanliness,  order,  and 
regularity  of  the  whole  arrangement ; but  my  visit  did 
not  incline  me  to  believe,  that  the  moral  object  which 
this  institution  has  in  view,  was  attained  or  even 


* A private  carriage  hired  by  an  individual  or  a party  is  here  so  called. 


64 


SCOTTISH  AGRICULTURIST. 


approached.  However,  as  my  mind  had  been  rarely 
directed  to  this  subject,  and  was  not  familiar  with  its 
details,  I beg  to  offer  the  above  remarks  as  those  of  a 
passing  observer,  and  to  disclaim  all  pretension  to  a 
critical  opinion  regarding  it. 

From  Auburn  we  took  saddle-horses,  and  rode  to 
Geneva,  a beautifully  situated  town  on  Seneca  lake  ; 
thence  through  a country  bearing  marks  of  improved 
fcultivation  and  prosperous  condition,  to  Canandaigua, 
passing  over  the  fine  lake  Cayuga  on  a wooden  bridge, 
the  length  of  which  I conceive  to  be  nearly  a mile  and 
a half,  built  on  piles.  Nothing  can  be  more  neat  and 
comfortable-looking  than  the  village  of  Canandaigua ; 
it  is  composed  of  one  long  street,  which  is,  indeed,  a 
series  of  villas,  each  house  being  shaded  by  walnut, 
hickory,  and  other  forest  trees. 

Having  letters  of  introduction  to  Mr.  G , an 

eminent  Scottish  agriculturist,  and  my  companion  being 
acquainted  with  Mr.  D , another  Scottish  gentle- 

man settled  here,  we  found  ourselves  soon  in  the  en- 
joyment of  every  comfort  that  the  most  kind  and  con- 
siderate hospitality  could  offer.  Mr.  G was  one 

of  the  earliest  settlers  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and 
by  unwearied  perseverence,  consummate  ability,  and 
unsullied  integrity,  has  raised  himself  in  this  district 
to  an  eminence,  both  in  fortune  and  character,  that 
may  be  pronounced  enviable.  Indeed  it  was  with 
mingled  feelings  of  astonishment,  pleasure,  and  nation- 
al pride,  that  I saw  this  excellent  man  doing  the  hon- 
ours of  his  table,  in  a house  that  might  vie  in  comfort 
and  luxury  with  any  of  the  villas  near  London,  and 
looking  from  its  roof  over  a vast  plain  of  corn,  fruit- 
trees,  and  gardens,  on  which,  when  he  first  came  to 
the  country,  the  impervious  forest  grew,  the  red  man 
and  the  deer  wandered. 

We  spent  two  or  three  days  here  most  agreeably, 
and  I derived  much  useful  information  from  conversa- 
tion with  Mr.  G respecting  the  method  pursued  in 

surveying,  clearing,  selling,  and  otherwise  managing 
the  tracts  of  land  disposed  of  in  this  country. 

From  Canandaigua,  which  I left  with  much  reluc- 


FERTILE  MEADOWS. 


65 


tance,  we  passed  through  a thriving  and  well  cultiva- 
ted country  to  Geneseo,  where  I had  the  pleasure  of 
being  introduced  to  Mr.  W , the  owner  of  a mag- 

nificent estate  in  the  Genesee  flats.  Fortune  seemed 
not  yet  wearied  of  being  bountiful,  and  allowed  us  to  see 
this  most  beautiful  valley,  with  the  advantage  of  residing 
in  one  of  the  most  hospitable  and  agreeable  houses  that 

I ever  entered.  Mr.W ’s  son  accompanied  us  through 

his  extensive  farms,  which  are  formed  to  delight  equally 
the  eye  of  a Poussin  or  a Sir  J.  Sinclair.  The  broad  mea- 
dows of  an  alluvial  soil,  covered  with  the  richest  grasses, 
as  watered  by  the  winding  Genesee,  are  studded  with 
trees,  beautifully  and  negligentlygrouped,  among  which 
are  scattered  large  herds  of  cattle  of  various  breeds  and 
kinds,  both  English  and  American ; the  meadows  are  here 
and  there  interspersed  with  fields  of  Indian  corn  and 
wheat,  whilethe  hills  that  rise  on  each  side  are  crowned 
with  timber,  exceptingspots  where  the  encroaching  hand 
of  improvement  has  begun  to  girdle  some  of  the  tall 
sons  of  the  forest,  whose  scathed  tops  and  black  bare 
arms,  betokening  their  approaching  fall,  give  a pic- 
turesque variety  to  the  scene. 

Yet  this  scene,  extraordinary  and  interesting  as  td 
was,  possessed  less  interest  to  a contemplative  an 
musing  mind,  than  the  venerable  and  excellent  gen- 
tleman who  had  almost  created  it ; for  it  was  now 

forty-four  years  since  Mr.  W came  as  the  the  first 

settler  to  this  spot,  with  an  axe  on  his  shoulder,  and 
slept  the  first  night  under  a tree.  After  this,  he  lodg- 
ed in  a log-house  ; subsequently  in  a cottage  ; and  he 
is  now  the  universally  esteemed  and  respected  posses- 
sor of  a demesne,  which  many  of  the  proudest  nobility 
of  Europe  might  look  upon  with  envy,  where  he 
exercises  the  rites  of  hospitality,  in  the  midst  of  his 
amiable  family,  with  a sincerity  and  kindness  that  I 
shall  not  easily  forget. 

As  I wished  to  see  the  country,  and  to  travel  more 
at  leisure  than  the  tyrannical  customs  of  a stage-coach 
permit,  I bought  here  a horse  and  light  waggon,  in 
which  I proceeded  to  Lockport,  a flourishing  village 
on  the  canal,  about  sixty  miles  from  Geneseo,  and 


66 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


thence  on  the  following  morning  to  the  Falls  of  Niag- 
ara. 

These  falls  have  been  so  frequently  and  so  well 
described  by  numerous  travellers,  that  any  description 
of  them  is  superfluous  in  regard  to  others,  and  in 
regard  to  myself  it  seems  equally  unnecessary  to  record 
upon  paper  that  which  is  graven  on  my  memory,  in 
characters  more  durable  than  any  that  the  hand  of 
man  can  trace.  Still  it  is  impossible  to  give  a faithful 
transcript  of  the  scenes  through  which  I have  passed, 
or  of  the  sensations  excited  by  them,  and  to  omit  all 
mention  of  the  most  sublime  natural  spectacle  on 
which  the  eye  of  man  ever  dwelt. 

The  river  Niagara  flows  from  Lake  Erie  to  Ontario, 
and  receives  from  the  former  the  waters  of  the  St. 
Clair,  the  Huron,  Michigan,  and  other  upper  lakes. 
After  leaving  lake  Erie,  the  Niagara  expands  to  the 
width  of  about  six  miles,  heaving  in  its  channel  two 
large  islands  called  Grand,  and  Navy  Island  ; on  the 
former  of  these  the  Jewish  city  of  Ararat  was  to  have 
been  built,  according  to  the  project  of  a Major  Noah, 
of  New  York,  in  1825.  Below  these  islands  the  width 
of  the  river  is  about  two  miles,  and  soon  after  leaving 
them  the  stream  begins  to  descend  with  great  rapidity, 
its  declination  being  above  fifty  feet  in  less  than  a mile. 
In  the  midst  of  the  white  and  foaming  rapids,  formed 
by  the  descent,  is  Goat  Island,  on  the  western  or  Cana- 
dian side  of  which  is  the  Horse-shoe  Fall ; on  the 
eastern,  the  American  Fall ; the  former  of  which,  being 
the  principal  channel  of  the  river,  is  about  one-third 
of  a mile  broad,  and  about  one  hundred  and  fifty-eight 
feet  high ; the  latter  a few  feet  higher,  but  of  much 
smaller  extent. 

On  arriving  at  the  Great  Horse-shoe  Fall,  descrip- 
tion must  stop  short ; and  to  those  who  have  not  seen 
it,  imagination  must  be  left  to  finish  a.  picture  of  which 
words  can  give  but  a feeble  outline.  How  can  lan- 
guage convey  impressions  too  tremendous  and  sublime 
even  for  the  mind  to  bear?  How  can  it  presume  to 
embody  a scene  on  which  the  eye  could  not  gaze,  to 
which  the  ear  could  not  listen,  and  which  the  oppres- 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


67 


sed  and  overwhelmed  power  of  reflection  could  not 
contemplate  without  feelings  of  awe,  wonder,  and 
delight,  so  intense  as  to  amount  almost  to  pain  ! 

Who  doth  not  feel,  until  his  failing  sight 
Faints  into  dimness  with  its  own  delight, 

His  changing  cheek,  his  sinking  heart  confess 
The  might — the  majesty  ? 

Bride  of  Abydos. 

These  lines  beautiful  as  they  are,  and  beautifully  ap- 
plied by  the  poet,  are  no  less  applicable  to  the  glorious 
Niagara.  He  who  admires  and  loves  the  softer  fea- 
tures in  Nature’s  countenance  should  cross  in  the 
ferry-boat  about  a quarter  of  a mile  below  the  falls  : 
there,  the  eye  can  take  them  both  in  at  once,  the  ear 
can  bear  the  hoarse  and  deep  voice  of  the  waters  sof- 
tened by  distance.  The  clouds  of  foam  that  rise  from 
the  boiling  caldron  spring  upward  in  snowy  wreaths 
of  vapour,  and  the  rocks  and  woods  around  are  tinged 
with  the  ever-changing  rays  of  the  rainbow.  And  he 
who  admires  Nature  in  her  more  stern  and  magnificent 
array,  should  stand  upon  the  Table  Rock.  There 
u Praesentiorem  conspiciet  Deum,” — there  the  tremen- 
dous roar  will  stun  his  ear — the  mingled  masses  of 
waters  and  of  foam  will  bewilder  his  eye — his  mind 
will  be  overwhelmed  by  contending  feelings  of  eleva- 
tion and  depression — and,  unless  he  be  colder  than 
the  very  rock  on  which  he  stands,  the  thoughts  that 
press  upon  his  brain,  will  be  high,  pure,  and  enthusi- 
astic, and  his  hot  brow  will  welcome  the  cool  light 
spray  that  is  ever  falling  around  that  holy  spot. 

Let  him  whose  spirit  delights  in  the  awful  sublimity 
of  nature,  who  loves  the  war  of  elements,  and  the 
secret  and  mysterious  paths  of  darkness,  descend  from 
the  Table  Rock,  and  undeterred  by  the  wind  and 
spray  that  will  appear  to  oppose  his  entrance, — let  him 
walk  along  a narrow  ledge  that  extends  about  one 
hundred  feet  under  the  great  Horse-shoe  Fall,  and 
there,  with  his  back  to  the  huge  beetling  rock,  above 
him  the  canopy  of  rushing  waters,  before  him  and  all 
around  a tempestuous  whirlwind  of  foam,  and  beneath 


68 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


his  feet  a raging  and  boiling  nnfathomed  abyss, — let 
let  him  meditate  on  the  littleness  of  man,  and  on  the 
attributes  of  Him  who  metes  out  those  waters  in  the 
hollow  of  his  hand  ! 

There  is  no  object  in  nature,  in  which  the  reflecting, 
the  poetic,  or  the  pious  mind,  will  not  trace  the  hand 
of  its  Divine  Author,  as  well  as  in  the  “ wee  modest 
crimson-tipped”  daisy,  or  the  love-torch  of  the  glow- 
worm, as  in  the  ocean,  or  the  starlit  sky  ; but  here  the 
dullest  spirit  must  be  stirred,  the  most  thoughtless  and 
careless,  be  arrested,  the  most  haughty  and  daring 
humbled  ; he  feels  like  Moses,  that  “he  should  put  the 
shoes  from  off  his  feet;”  he  feels  as  if  admitted  to  a 
secret  abode  and  dwelling-place  of  the  Deity,  who 
speaks  to  him  there  in  a terrible  whisper. 

When  I followed  the  guide  into  this  stormy  recess, 
there  was  a strong  breeze  of  wind,  and  the  spray  was 
was  dashed  against  our  faces  with  such  unusual  vio- 
lence  as  to  render  it  almost  impossible,  upon  first  en- 
tering, to,  keep  the  eyes  open,  or  to  respire  : I was  so 
excited,  that  I feel  some  degree  of  shame  in  owning 
I neglected  the  usual  paraphernalia  of  oilskin  coat, 
trousers,  &c.  and  throwing  off  my  walking-jacket,  I 
braved  the  water-monarch  in  his  den  with  no  other 
armour  than  a stout  broad-brimmed  hat.  However, 
by  slouching  this  civic  helmet  over  my  eyes  and  hold- 
ing my  breath,  I followed  the  guide  without  difficulty 
to  the  interior  of  the  rocky  chambers  where  the  spray 
and  whirlwind  are  less  violent,  and  where  the  faculties 
of  seeing,  hearing,  and  feeling  are  restored. 

Upon  arriving  here  I became  aware  that  two  young 
American  travellers  whom  I had  met  in  my  rambles, 
and  who,  accoutred  in  a panoply  of  oilskin,  had  accom- 
panied me  to  the  entrance  below  the  Falls,  were  miss- 
ing. Upon  informing  the  guide  of  the  circumstance, 
he  was  alarmed  for  their  safety,  and  returned  to  see 
what  had  become  of  them.  Thus  left  alone,  I pursued 
the  little  path  or  ledge  to  its  farthest  extremity,  at  a 
point  called  Termination  Rock:  and,  reseating  myself, 
regardless  of  the  “ pelting  of  the  pitiless  storm,”  I re- 
velled in  the  glorious  and  terrible  scene  before  me 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


69 


To  describe  it  further  I will  not  attempt,  neither  can 
I relate  the  thoughts  that  crowded  upon  me  during  the 
few  minutes  that  I spent  in  that  awful  spot  — they 
were  too  mingled  and  confused  to  be  defined,  or  inter- 
esting to  any  one.  The  faculties  of  reason  were  ab- 
sorbed, and  the s powers  of  imagination  and  memory 
held  for  a time  divided  empire.  The  Atlantic  and  the 
thousand  miles  that  divided  me  from  home  were  for- 
gotton,  and  well-know  forms  and  beloved  images  were 
mingled  in  my  wild  waking  dream  with  the  thunder- 
ing rush  of  waters. 

I know  not  how  long  the  reverie  continued,  from 
which  I was  roused  by  the  return  of  the  guide,  who 
informed  me  that  he  could  not  persuade  the  other  two 
travellers  to  enter  the  cavern.  I went  back  and  used 
every  argument  to  induce  them  to  prosecute  the  un- 
dertaking in  which  there  was  no  real  danger,  but  in 
vain  : in  their  first  attempt  one  had  lost  his  balance, 
and  the  other  his  breath,  and  they  went  away,  as  the 
old  Greek  tragedians  say,  atfgoLxroi* 

Many  travellers,  after  leaving  Niagara,  have  said 
that,  although  deeply  impressed  with  its  unrivalled 
magnificence,  they  felt  no  anxiety  to  revisit  it.  Such 
is  not  the  case  with  me,  and  if  ever  Fate  permit  me 
again  to  stand  upon  the  Table  Rock,  the  charms  of 
novelty  and  surprise  may  be  wanting,  but  I shall 

“ Hail  in  each  crag  a friend’s  familiar  face, 

And  clasp  the  torrent  in  my  mind’s  embrace.” 


* ‘‘Unsuccessful,” 


70 


TORONTO. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Embark  on  Lake  Ontario. — Toronto. — Reception  by  the  Governor. — 
Lake  of  The  Thousand  Islands. — The  Cholera  at  Montreal  and  due- 
bee. — Journey  towards  Lake  Champlain. — Gloomy  Road, — Burlington. 
— Students  in  the  College  of  that  Town. — An  Obliging  Landlord. — 
Road  to  Montpelier. — The  Camel’s  Hump. — American  Liberality. — 
Accommodations  at  the  Taverns. — John  Bull  a bad  Traveller. — Han- 
* over. — Concord. — A Criminal  Trial  in  this  Town. — Amoskeag. — Ex- 
change of  Steeds. — Lowell — its  Lucrative  Trade. — Approach  to  Bos- 
ton.— Arrival  in  that  Town. — The  Tremont  House. — Mr.  Webster. — 
Tone  of  Conversation  in  Boston. 

On  leaving  the  Palls,  I drove  my  waggon  and  horse 
down  to  Niagara  town,  and  embarked  with  them  in 
the  Great  Britain ; a magnificent  steamboat,  which 
plies  on  Lake  Ontario.  We  arrived  in  the  evening  at 
Toronto,  late  York,  the  capital  of  Upper  Canada.  This 
is  a flourishing  town,  though  it  has  been  severely  visi- 
ted by  the  cholera,  it  contains  about  ten  thousand  in- 
habitants ; but  as  the  steam-boat  only  stayed  two  hours, 
and  during  those  it  was  dark,  I cannot  [speak  much 
either  of  its  defects  or  beauties. 

I spent  an  hour  in  conversation  with  the  governor 

Sir  J.  C , to  whom  I had  a letter  of  introduction, 

and  from  whom  I met  with  a most  polite  reception 
notwithstanding  the  unseasonable  hour  (9.  p.  m.)  at 
which  I was  obliged  to  intrude  upon  his  hospitality. 
I regretted  much  that  I was  unable  to  avail  myself,  for 
a longer  period,  of  the  opportunity  of  deriving  infor- 
mation respecting  Upper  Canada  from  a distinguished 
officer  so  able  and  willing  to  give  it. 

From  Toronto  we  sailed  down  Lake  Ontario  passing 
Kingston  before  daylight,  to  Oswego,  a thriving  town 
on  the  American  coast ; thence  to  Ogdensburgh,  pas- 
sing the  opening  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  through  the 
Lake  of  the  Thousand  Islands.  With  the  scenery  of 
the  latter  I was,  I confess,  somewhat  disappointed; 
perhaps  my  expectation  had  been  raised  too  high  by 


LAKE  OF  THE  THOUSAND  ISLANDS. 


71 


the  descriptions  of  travellers,  and  by  the  splendour  of 
the  name.  The  islands  are  indeed  almost  innumera- 
ble, and  covered  with  wood  ; but  there  is  little  variety, 
scarcely  any  rising  ground,  even  on  the  banks,  and  no 
distant  outline  whatever.  The  water  was  beautifully 
smooth  and  clear — the  autumnal  tints  had  begun  to 
shed  their  melancholy  charm  over  the  foilage,  and  the 
scene  was  agreeable  and  pretty ; but  it  undoubtedly 
wants  many  of  the  elements  of  beauty  that  delight  the 
eye,  in  the  wooded  islets  that  gem  the  bosom  of  Loch 
Lomond. 

On  arriving  at  Ogdensburgh,  my  fellow-traveller  and 
I determined  not  to  prosecute  our  journey  to  Montreal 
and  Quebec,  as  the  cholera  was  making  serious  rava- 
ges in  those  cities ; and  independently  of  the  risk  in- 
curred of  being  attacked  by  that  terrible  disease,  the  ma- 
jority of  the  higher  classes  of  society  had  retired  to  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  neighbouring  country  ; we  accor- 
dingly directed  the  flight  of  Hornet  (for  so  was  my  faith- 
ful steed  called)  towards  Lake  Champlain  ; and  after  a 
drive  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  through  the  most 
wild  and  uncultivated  countiy  that  I have  ever  seen, 
we  came  to  Plattsburgh. 

In  the  course  of  this  long  journey  the  villages  were 
“ like  angel  visits,  few  and  far  between  the  roads  ex- 
ecrable, being  made  upon  the  anti-mac-adam  corduroy 
system.  The  miles  of  gloomy  silent  forest,  apparently 
interminable — the  dull  monotony  of  this  bosky  desert 
— its  loneliness  unrelieved  by  the  appearance  of  any 
living  creature,  save  now  and  then  the  shrill  cry  of  the 
woodpecker,  and  the  hissing  whisper  of  the  catydid, 
produced  a corresponding  effect  upon  our  spirits.  A 
group  of  shepherds,  collected  round  a wolf,  which  they 
had  just  slain  as  an  expiatory  sacrifice  to  appease  the 
manes  of  eight  sheep,  devoured  by  him  the  preceding 
night,  formed  the  only  banquet  in  which  our  appetite 
for  interest  or  incident  was  permitted  to  indulge.  We 
heard  indeed  of  bears,  deer,  (fee.  but  saw  none. 

I do  not  know  from  what  principle  of  our  nature  it 
proceeds,  but  it  is  undoubtedly  true,  that  the  mind  feels 
more  oppressed  by  the  unvarying  loneliness  and  silence 


72 


BURLINGTON. 


of  a vast  American  forest,  than  by  the  barren  desolation 
of  the  wildest  moor  or  plain  ; nay,  even  more  than  by 
the  waste  of  waters  in  a calm  at  sea.*  Perhaps  it  may 
be  that  the  spirit  is  more  circumscribed  and  confined  in 
the  former  instance,  and  feels  the  want  of  that  space  and 
extent  which,  however  desolate  it  may  be,  it  can  roam 
over,  and  people  with  the  undefined  and  fantastic  ob- 
jects of  its  own  creation.  Leaving  the  solution  of  the 
problem  to  more  speculative  heads,  we  proceed  to  Lake 
Champlain,  which  we  crossed  in  a steamer,  and  landed 
at  Burlington,  a village  on  the  south  eastern  side  of  the 
lake. 

Of  all  the  places  which  I have  yet  visited,  this  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  agreeable.  The  townt 
rises  in  a gentle  slope  from  the  bay,  which  is  a semi- 
circular curve,  the  extremities  of  which  are  fringed 
with  wood  to  the  margin  of  the  water.  The  ground 
about  it  is  undulating  and  varied,  the  houses  neat, 
and  for  the  most  part  shaded  by  hickory  and  other 
trees,  and  the  view  of  the  lake  with  its  promontories 
and  woody  islands,  bounded  by  a distant  range  of  blue 
mountains,  is  as  lovely  as  the  eye  of  a Claude  or  a 
Poussin  could  desire. 

Burlington  contains  about  three  thousand  inhabi- 
tants ; three  churches  — one  Episcopalian,  one  Pres- 
byterian, and  one  Unitarian  ; and  a college,  situated 
on  an  eminence  about  a quarter  of  a mile  from  the 
town,  attended  by  about  a hundred  students.  The 
vacation  was  just  over,  and  some  repairs  of  the  build- 
ing were  scarcely  complete,  so  I had  little  opportunity 
of  talking  with  any  of  the  students,  but  was  informed 
that  among  them  were  three  Germans  come  thither 


* Of  course  I allude  to  an  individual  travelling  without  a definite  object; 
to  an  Indian  following  through  the  forest  the  trail  of  an  enemy,  or  to  a 
hunter  following  that  of  a bear  or  deer,  these  remarks  would  be  totally  in- 
applicable. 

f Once  for  all  it  is  necessary  to  mention,  that  in  (this  part  at  least  of 
the  United  States,  the  Americans  use  the  word  “ town"  to  express  what 
is  called  in  England  a parish, — and  places  such  as  in  England  would  be 
called  towns,  are  by  them  denominated  either  villages  or  cities,  under  the 
former  of  these  appellations  are  included  many  places  containing  three, 
four,  and  five  thousand  inhabitants,  and  sometimes,  I believe,  more. 


COLLEGE  STUDENTS. 


73 


from  Gottingen  to  study  the  English  language  ! Is 
there  nothing  in  this  to  rouse  the  attention  of  Oxford, 
Cambridge,  London,  Edinburgh,  &c.  that  three  young 
men,  desirous  of  learning  English,  should  find  it  ex- 
pedient (from  reasons  of  economy  or  other  facilities) 
to  travel  between  four  and  five  thousand  miles  to  a 
remote  town  in  the  interior  of  North  America? 

There  are  three  good  hotels ; that  at  which  I stayed, 

kept  by  Mr.  T , is  very  well  conducted,  and  he 

himself  is  a most  intelligent,  active,  and  obliging  land- 
lord ; he  is  a proprietor  of  extensive  glass-works  in  the 
lower  part  of  the  village.  He  drove  me  down  in  his 
carriage  to  see  them,  and  I was  surprised  at  the  ex- 
cellence and  cheapness  of  the  material.  The  work  is 
carried  on  upon  principles  differing  considerably  from 
those  observed  at  the  glass- manufactories  in  Britain, 
and  is  altogether  well  worthy  of  attention.  The  clay 
used  in  making  the  pots  is  imported  from  Hamburgh, 
none  having  yet  been  found  in  America  capable  of 
resisting  for  any  length  of  time  the  intense  heat  of  the 
furnaces. 

From  Burlington  (my  fellow-traveller  having  pre- 
ceded me  in  the  stage  to  Boston)  I drove  through  a 
very  pretty  and  picturesque  country  to  Montpelier,  the 
capital  village  of  Vermont.  The  road  formed  by  the 
course  of  the  Union  river  (pronounced  there  invaria- 
bly Onion),  passes  down  the  valley:  the  lower  meadows 
are  rich  and  fertile,  and  divided  into  neat  and  thriving 
farms  ; the  sides  of  the  valley  are  clothed  with  varied 
copse  and  forest  wood,  and  over  the  western  side  towers 
a lofty  mountain,  called  the  Camel’s  Hump,  although 
(as  Shakespeare  says)  the  u shepherds  gives  it  a grosser 
name”  which  answers  very  well  in  rhyme  to  the  one 
here  given,  but  is  not  quite  so  euphonious  to  ears  po- 
lite. Its  height  is,  I believe,  about  five  thousand  feet. 

At  Montpelier,  I found  that  hilly,  sandy,  execrable 
roads,  together  with  the  heat  of  the  weather,  made  the 
journey  rather  fatiguing  for  my  steed  ; and  I chose 
him  a helpmate  in  the  shape  of  a little  Indian  pony, 
which  I found  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  C , land- 

lord of  the  Pavilion  Hotel. 

G 


74 


AMERICAN  LIBERALITY. 


Here  I cannot  help  making  a few  remarks  upon  a 
subject  on  which  I think  the  general  opinion  in  Britain 
is  erroneous.  We  are  taught  to  believe  that  the  Yan- 
key  is  invariably  a suspicious  and  avaricious  man  in 
his  money  transactions,  and  incapable  of  those  feelings 
and  acts  of  liberality  for  which  the  British  character 
is  distinguished.  I shall  mention  two  instances  that 
occurred  to  me  in  the  space  of  four  days,  which  showed 
a very  different  character  from  that  of  which  the 
New  Englanders  are  accused.  The  change  in  the 
route  which  the  prevalence  of  the  cholera  at  Montreal 
induced  me  to  adopt,  had  prevented  me  from  drawing 
any  of  the  money  which  I intended  to  get  in  that  city, 
and  my  finances  were,  therefore,  so  much  reduced  as 
to  leave  me  only  just  sufficient  to  take  me  as  far  as 
Boston.  Upon  my  mentioning  the  circumstance  to 

Mr.  T , my  landlord  at  Burlington,  as  my  reason 

for  not  making  some  trifling  purchases  in  that  town, 
he  at  once  advanced  me  fifty  dollars,  by  indorsing  my 
draft  on  New  York,  and  presenting  the  bill  to  the  Bur- 
lington Bank. 

The  second  instance  which  I shall  quote  was  in  the 
purchase  of  the  Indian  pony.  Mr.  C of  Montpe- 

lier, understanding  that  it  would  be  inconvenient  for 
me  to  pay  his  price  out  of  my  travelling  pocket-money, 
offered  at  once  to  accept  my  draft  on  New  York  for 
the  sum,  in  which  manner  the  purchase  was  made. 
Neither  of  these  gentlemen  had  ever  seen  or  heard  of 
me  before,  neither  of  them  asked  even  for  a letter  of  in- 
troduction or  other  papers  to  satisfy  them  as  to  any 
particulars  respecting  me  ; and  with  all  due  and  mo- 
dest allowance  for  my  own  gentlemanly  appearance,  I 
very  much  doubt  whether  I should  have  met  with  the 
same  liberal  treatment,  under  similar  circumstances, 
at  a country  town  in  Yorkshire  or  Lancashire. 

Another  thing  I am  also  bound  in  candour  to  say, 
namely,  that  the  descriptions  hitherto  given  by  travel- 
lers, of  the  accommodations  at  the  taverns  in  the  more 
remote  parts  of  the  country,  have  been  highly  coloured 
to  their  disadvantage.  In  travelling  for  the  last  fort- 
night with  my  own  horse  and  waggon,  I have  stopped 


TAVERN  ACCOMMODATION. 


75 


at  three  or  four  different  places  in  the  course  of  each 
day,  and  have  gone  through  a great  portion  of  the 
most  unsettled  country  in  New  York,  Vermont,  and 
New  Hamshire : in  many  instances  the  taverns  have 
been  very  small ; but  I have  never  had  reason  to  com- 
plain of  want  of  cleanliness,  good  victuals,  or  civility. 
I have  asked  at  the  most  unseasonable  hours,  both 
early  and  late,  for  breakfast,  dinner,  and  supper  ; and 
in  the  course  of  ten  minutes  have  always  been  sup- 
plied with  a beefsteak,  potatoes,  bread  and  cheese,  but- 
ter, eggs,  and  tea  or  coffee ; the  beds  have  been  clean, 
and  whenever  I asked  for  two  or  three  towels  instead 
of  the  one  placed  in  the  room,  they  have  been  furnished 
without  any  hesitation  or  extra  charge.  All  that  a 
traveller  requires  is  a sufficient  knowledge  of  the  world, 
to  prevent  his  mistaking  manners  for  intention  : and  a 
sufficient  fund  of  good  temper  in  himself  to  keep  him 
from  being  irritated  by  trifles.  Upon  entering  or  driving 
up  to  a tavern,  the  landlord  will  sometimes  continue 
smoking  his  pipe  without  noticing  your  entrance  ; and 
if  you  ask  whether  you  can  have  dinner,  you  may  be 
told  “ dinner  is  over,  but  I guess  you  can  have  some- 
thing.” If  you  are  true  John  Bull,  you  will  fret  and 
sulk ; and  silently  comparing  this  with  the  bustling 
attention  and  empressement  of  an  English  waiter  or 
boots,  you  walk  about  by  yourself,  chewing  the  bitter 
cud  of  wrath  : but  if  you  are  a traveller,  or  formed  by 
nature  to  become  one  (which  John  Bull  is  not),  you 
will  take  this  reception  as  you  find  it  and  as  the  usage 
of  the  country,  and  in  a few  minutes  he  of  the  pipe 
will  be  assisting  to  arrange  your  baggage,  to  dry  your 
wet  great  coat,  and  a tolerable  dinner  will  be  in  prepa- 
ration. Such  is  the  state  of  things  in  the  North,  what 
it  may  be  in  the  South  and  West,  I have  yet  to  learn. 

From  Montpelier  I drove  through  a tolerably  well- 
cultivated  country  to  Hanover,  a pretty  town,  in  which 
is  situated  Dartford  College ; an  extensive  clumsy 
building.  I was  informed  that  the  number  of  students 
was  about  one  hundred  and  fifty,  besides  the  medical 
department,  which  was  separate,  and  consisted  of  one 
hundred ; but  as  the  weather  was  very  stormy,  and  it 


76 


CONCORD. 


was  vacation  time,  I had  little  inclination  or  opportu- 
nity to  see  the  lions  of  Hanover  ; accordingly  I made 
the  best  of  my  way  to  Concord,  the  capital  of  New 
Hampshire,  a clean  airy  town,  containing  several  good 
taverns,  and  an  excellent  hotel. 

The  village  consists  principally  of  the  main  street,  the 
houses  of  which  are  generally  painted  white,  and  a 
great  many  of  them  have  gardens  and  large  trees  round 
them,  which  give  them  a fresh  and  rural  appearance. 

The  state  of  New  Hampshire,  of  which  Concord  is 
the  capital,  contains  about  the  same  population  as  Ver- 
mont, and  both  send  five  members  to  Congress.  Du- 
ring my  excursion,  the  political  feelings  in  both  states 
ran  rather  high,  and  seemed  pretty  equally  divided  on 
the  Bank  question,  at  this  time  the  general  subject  of 
divided  opinion  ; but  I thought  the  majority  of  the  in- 
habitants of  both  these  states  more  favourable  to  the  ex- 
isting government  than  those  of  New  York. 

Before  arriving  at  Concord,  I passed  a Shaker  vil- 
lage ; but  as  it  was  not  on  a Sunday,  I could  not  see 
any  of  the  peculiarities  of  their  worship.  The  rain, 
which  fell  in  torrents,  prevented  me  from  paying  atten- 
tion to  other  circumstances  which  might  have  been 
worthy  of  notice. 

At  Concord  I found  the  court  of  Common  Pleas  sitting: 
the  case  appeared,  from  the  numbers  that  flocked  into 
the  town,  to  create  much  interest,  and  upon  inquiry  I 
found  that  a man  was  upon  his  trial  for  murdering  a 
woman  under  most  horrible  and  aggravated  circum- 
stances. They  were  briefly  as  follows  : — 

A young  man  of  about  seventeen  or  eighteen  years  of 
age,  lived  as  farm-servant  in  a respectable  family  near 
Concord,  the  mistress  of  which  was  an  amiable,  and 
beautiful  young  woman.  She  asked  her  husband  one 
evening  to  go  to  the  garden  and  gather  some  strawberries 
with  her ; he  happened  to  be  reading  an  interesting 
book  and  declined,  and  she  went  accompanied  by  this 
lad.  On  arriving  there,  he  made  a brutal  attack  upon 
her  ; and  unable  to  effect  his  purpose,  murdered  her  by 
beating  her  brains  out  with  a stake.  The  unfortunate 
woman  appears  to  have  made  a protracted  resistance, 


CRIMINAL  TRIAL. 


77 


as  the  grass  around  the  spot  was  covered  with  blood 
and  other  marks  of  a struggle.  These  circumstances 
the  prisoner  admitted,  and  the  defence  rested  upon  an 
attempt  to  prove  temporary  insanity  ! 

In  the  state  of  New  Hampshire,  murder  and  treason 
are  the  only  crimes  punishable  by  death.  Two  coun- 
sel are  provided  for  the  panel  by  the  state  ; the  prosecu- 
tion is  conducted  by  the  Attorney-general  for  the  state, 
and  the  solicitor  of  the  county  ; and  the  court  is  com- 
posed of  two  judges  of  the  local,  and  two  of  the  supreme 
court,  one  of  which  latter  presides. 

I attended  three  or  four  hours  on  the  second  day,  all 
of  which  time  was  occupied  in  the  examination  of  me- 
dical men  on  the  subject  of  insanity.  I was  surprised 
to  find  great  weight  attached  in  court  to  the  writings 
and  opinions  of  Combe  and  Spurzheim,  and  I certainly 
never  heard  so  vague  and  desultory  an  examination  as 
that  which  these  witnesses  underwent : every  case  of 
insanity  that  had  ever  come  under  their  observation  was 
quoted  revelant  or  irrevelant.  There  was  no  attempt 
to  prove  that  the  prisoner  had  ever  shown  symptoms  of 
that  malady  previously  to  the  murder,  but  his  grand- 
father had  been  an  odd  man,  and  one  of  his  uncles  was 
nearly  mad — when  drunk  ! 

One  ludicrous  instance  quoted  of  the  hereditary 
descent  of  maladies,  may  be  mentioned  as  an  evidence 
of  the  latitude  allowed  to  a prisoner’s  defence  : the 
prisoner’s  father  had  never  shown  any  symptoms  of 
that  strangeness  of  character  for  which  his  grandfather 
had  been  remarkable  ; one  medical  witness  said  that 
the  President  Jefferson’s  grandson  inherited  exactly 
that  eminent  man’s  nose , although  in  the  intermediate 
face  of  his  father  a different  nose  had  appeared  ! The 
prisoner  had  been  confined  about  a year  and  a half, 
having  confessed  the  assault  and  consequent  murder. 
The  stings  of  conscience,  the  tedious  confinement,  the 
expectation  of  death,  and  above  all  possibly  the  know- 
ledge that  his  life  depended  upon  being  pronounced 
mad  or  idiotic,  had  given  to  his  countenance  in  court 
a sallow  hue,  a downcast  look,  a heavy  lustreless  eye ; 

G* 


78 


AMOSKEAG. 


and  yet  one  medical  witness  commented  upon  his  ap- 
pearance in  court  as  an  evidence  of  madness  ! 

My  impression  from  the  evidence  was,  that  the  pri- 
soner had  been  clearly  guilty  of  a brutal  attempt,  which 
he  had  deliberately  endeavoured  to  conceal  by  an  atro- 
cious murder,  and  that  be  deserved  hanging  as  richly 
as  any  wretch  that  ever  died  by  the  gallows.  I learnt 
soon  afterwards  that  he  was  condemned,  but  I did  not 
hear  or  read  of  his  execution,  so  it  is  not  improbable 
that  his  punishment  was  commuted,  as  (in  1834)  thir- 
teen years  had  elapsed  since  a capital  conviction  had 
been  followed  by  execution  in  the  state  of  New  Hamp- 
shire. 

Leaving  Concord  in  the  afternoon  I drove  to  Amos- 
keag, a pretty  village  in  the  road  to  Boston,  where 
there  is  a thriving  cotton  factory,  standing  upon  a rocky 
promontory  projecting  into  the  river,  whence  the  water 
flows  through  the  establishment.  Below  it  is  a cascade, 
over  which  is  thrown  a wooden  bridge.  The  dark 
pines  fringing  the  banks  of  the  stream,  gave  to  the 
whole  scene  under  the  chasteninginfluence  of  the  bright 
moonlight  in  which  I saw  it,  an  agreeable  and  pic- 
turesque effect,  which  was  the  more  striking  from  its 
being  totally  unexpected. 

Here  my  poor  steed,  Hornet,  evinced  considerable 
signs  of  having  been  overdriven  in  the  hot  weather. 
As  his  shoulder  was  much  pained  by  the  collar,  I de- 
termined to  take  him  no  further,  and  accordingly  ex- 
changed him  for  a short,  stout,  active  galloway,  more 
suited  for  daily  drudgery,  and  a better  match  in  size 
for  my  little  Indian  pony. 

Prom  Amoskeag  I proceeded  to  Lowell  in  Massachu- 
sets,  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  towns  in  this  extra- 
ordinary country.  It  is  now  perhaps  the  first  manufac- 
turing village  in  the  United  States  ; and  although  it 
cannot  vie  with  Manchester,  Leeds,  or  Glasgow,  in 
wealth  or  population,  it  far  exceeds  them  in  the  neat- 
ness and  cleanliness  of  its  streets  and  buildings.  Du- 
ring this  year  (1834)  I understood  that  the  capital  em- 
barked in  cotton  mills  was  about  one  million  and  a half 
sterling,  employing  seven  thousand  persons,  and  above 
one  hundred  thousand  spindles  ; at  a rough  estimate 


BOSTON. 


79 


there  might  be  forty  million  yards  of  cotton  made  in 
the  year,  of  which  one-fourth  were  printed. 

From  Lowell  I proceeded  to  Boston,  where  I arrived 
in  the  evening.  The  approach  to  the  city,  which  is  over 
a very  long  wooden  bridge,  recalled  Amsterdam  to  my 
memory ; an  association,  doubtless,  strengthened  by 
the  busy  stir,  and  the  masts  seen  in  so  many  directions 
as  to  lead  you  to  believe  that  every  street  was  a canal. 

On  arriving,  I drove  (as  every  traveller  must  do,  bon 
gre , mat  gre ) to  that  first  and  most  complete  of  hos- 
telry monopolies,  the  Tremont  House,  which  is  certainly 
one  of  the  largest  and  best-conducted  establishments  of 
the  sort  in  the  world.  The  building  is  a good  massy 
specimen  of  the  simplest  order  of  Greek  architecture ; 
and  although  I could  not  perceive  the  extreme  beauty 
which  I had  been  taught  to  expect,  the  effect  of  the 
whole  is  both  pleasing  and  imposing.  To  this  house 
the  daily  arrivals  may  be  reckoned  by  scores,  sometimes 
by  hundreds  ; and  fortunate,  indeed,  is  the  man  who, 
by  giving  a week’s  notice,  can  obtain  a single  room  of 
ten  feet  by  twelve.  The  ground  floor  is  taken  up  by 
two  large  drawing  rooms  for  ladies  on  one  side  of  the 
entrance,  and  a reading-room,  parlour,  and  smoking- 
room,  for  gentlemen,  on  the  other  ; behind  these  is  the 
dining-room,  probably  ninety  feet  by  fifty ; and  the 
wings,  which  are  built  round  a large  court,  contain  par- 
lours and  sleeping-rooms  for  families. 

The  drives  and  rides  about  Boston  are  very  beauti- 
ful specimens  of  the  best  kind  of  English  villa  scenery. 
The  enclosures  are  small,  the  verdure  rich,  the  ground 
undulating,  and  all  remind  the  British  traveller  of  the 
neighbourhood  of  Richmond  and  Roehampton,  while 
the  clean  white  villas,  with  their  verandahs  covered 
with  fragrant  creepers,  and  surrounded  by  gardens  and 
orchards,  indicate  that  luxurious  comfort  and  wealthy 
repose  which  gild  the  peaceful  autumn  of  a life  of  com- 
mercial activity.  In  many  respects  Boston  is  a pleasant 
and  interesting  city,  the  latter  from  its  being  the  foun- 
dation stone  of  the  Temple  of  American  Liberty  ; and 
the  former,  from  the  liberality  and  hospitality  by  which 
its  citizens  are  distinguished. 


80 


BOSTON. MR.  WEBSTER. 


The  day  after  my  arrival  I had  the  pleasure  of  an  in- 
troduction to  Mr.  Webster,  whose  reputation  for  foren- 
sic eloquence  is  already  as  familiar  to  the  eastern  as  to 
the  western  hemisphere ; and  although  he  was  unfor- 
tunately labouring  under  the  attack  of  a severe  cold,  it 
required  very  little  fancy  to  clothe  that  open  brow,  that 
large  dark  eye,  that  firm  and  compressed  lip,  and  that 
deep  voice  with  all  their  well-known  attributes  of  rea- 
soning, sarcasm,  and  invective.  We  parted  with  a sin- 
cere wish  on  my  part  to  improve  the  acquaintance  du- 
ring the  ensuing  season  at  Washington. 

My  stay  in  this  city  was  so  short  that  I will  not  pre- 
tend to  make  any  comments  upon  its  society  : I only 
attended  two  or  three  small  parties ; and  although  the 
general  tone  of  conversation  was  more  grave  and  lite- 
rary than  what  I had  hitherto  found  elsewhere  in  the 
United  States,  I am  quite  aware  that  any  opinions  of 
mine,  formed  during  a residence  of  a few  days  in  a city 
of  such  magnitude  and  so  often  described,  would  be 
crude  and  without  value.  I will,  therefore,  pass  over 
the  subject  of  Boston’s  merits,  not  as  undeserving  of 
further  notice,  but  from  a feeling  of  my  own  incompe- 
tence to  do  justice  to  it. 


RETURN  TO  NEW  YORK. 


81 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Return  to  New  York. — Heavy  Fog. — Exploring  Party. — Society  in  New 
York. — Departure  for  Philadelphia. — Exhibition  of  Wild  Beasts  in  Bor- 
dentown. — Arrival  in  Philadelphia. — A lineal  Descendant  of  William 
Wallace. — Arrival  at  Washington. — British  Legation. — Tour  to  the 
West  of  Virginia. — Wretched  Roads. — A Disaster. — A Negro  Samari- 
tan.— Friendly  Landlord. — Arrival  at  Leesburgh. — Search  for  Game. — 
Capture  of  a large  Gobbler. — Fruit  called  Persimmon. — Remarkable 
Duel. — Romney. — Excursion  in  pursuit  of  Deer. — American  Agricul- 
rist  and  Hunter. — Invidious  Comparison. — Hospitable  Laird. — Repub- 
lican Doctrine  of  Equality — ludicrous  Anomalies  arising  from  this. — 
Survey  of  various  Tracts  of  Land. — Progress  of  Agriculture. — Excur- 
sion to  the  Glades  of  Alleghany — Scenery — the  Inhabitants. — Private 
Entertainment. — Mr.  Chisholm. — Recollections  of  Scotland. — Scotch 
Settlers. — Field  Sports  in  the  Alleghanies. 


From  Boston  I returned  to  New  York  by  steam,  em- 
barking at  Providence.  On  this  expedition  my  usual 
sea-luck  attended  me,  inasmuch  as  we  were  obliged  to 
drop  the  anchor  in  mid-channel  between  Long  Island 
and  the  main  land  in  consequence  of  a heavy  easterly 
fog,  through  which  the  eye  could  not  penetrate  above 
twenty  yards.  After  lying  there  all  night  and  half  the 
succeeding  day,  the  captain  determined  to  send  out  a 
boat  to  explore  in  hopes  of  obtaining  information  or  bear- 
ings by  which  he  might  continue  his  course.  As  I was 
weary  of  inaction,  I jumped  into  the  boat  and  took  an 
oar  ; there  were  three  others  besides  myself  and  a 
steersman  : we  pushed  off  armed  with  only  a compass, 
and  in  three  minutes  lost  sight  of  the  steamer.  Like 
Satan  of  old 


“ From  them  we  went 
This  uncouth  errand  sole  ; and  we,  for  all 
Ourselves  exposed  with  lonely  steps  to  tread 
Th’  unfounded  deep,  and  through  the  void  immense 
To  search  with  wandering  quest  a place.” 

We  rowed  steadily  on  in  order  that  the  compass  might 
not  be  disturbed,  and  the  only  sound  that  broke  upon 
the  ear  through  the  thick  pulpy  haze,  was  the  melan- 


82 


EXPLORING  PARTY. 


choly  tolling  of  the  steamboat  bell  which  became  gra- 
dually fainter  and  fainter,  till  at  length  it  died  away  al- 
together. 

Several  times  we  rested  on  our  oars,  and  the  cox- 
swain proposed  to  return,  a motion  which  I always  ne- 
gatived, as  I thought  we  should  be  laughed  at  if  we 
went  back  without  conveying  any  information,  and  I 
knew  that  we  were  in  a channel  which  could  not  be 
more  than  ten  or  fifteen  miles  wide,  so  that  we  had  lit- 
tle fear  of  being  starved,  unless  we  were  carried  out  to 
sea.  Again  we  rowed  on,  and  again  the  faint  chime  of 
the  bell  was  heard  as  the  lazy  breeze  veered  and  hauled 
and  gradually  died  away  ; but  even  this  ceased  to  be  of 
much  avail,  as  one  sailor  thought  the  steamer  was 
astern  of  us,  another  that  she  was  on  our  larboard,  ano- 
ther on  our  starboard  quarter  ; we  still  pulled  a-head  by 
compass,  and  were  soon  rewarded  by  hearing  a distant 
roar  which  we  knew  to  be  breakers,  but  owing  to  the 
state  of  the  atmosphere  the  sounds  were  so  indistinct, 
that  we  could  not  agree  from  whence  they  came.  We 
pulled,  perhaps,  two  or  three  miles  before  we  made  the 
shore,  but  then  it  was  merely  a low  line  of  rocks,  by 
which  none  of  my  companions  could  calculate  whether 
it  was  island  or  main-land,  or  even  ascertain  on  which 
side  of  the  channel  they  were  j however,  after  pulling 
a mile  or  two  alongr  the  coast,  we  made  a light  house, 
which  they  recognized,  and  taking  accurate  bearings, 
we  put  the  boat  about  and  steered  due  north-west,  which 
was  the  point  at  which  we  calculated  the  steamer’s  an- 
chorage ; determining,  after  rowing  a certain  distance, 
to  cruise  about  till  we  heard  the  bell.  The  plan  suc- 
ceeded, and  we  reached  her  with  very  little  deviation 
from  our  north-west  course,  having  been  absent  between 
two  and  three  hours.  Altogether  it  was  to  me  a very 
pleasant  excursion  : I obtained  some  hard  exercise,  as 
we  had  but  four  oars,  and  the  boat  was  meant  for  six ; 
and  there  was  something  mysterious  in  the  chaotic  dark- 
ness of  our  course  that  gave  the  excitement  of  danger 
without  its  annoyance. 

On  my  return  to  New  York,  I quitted  the  gaiety  and 
noise  of  the  hotel  for  a quiet  lodging,  and  resolved  to 


EXHIBITION  OF  ANIMALS. 


83 


spend  a few  weeks  in  the  enjoyment  of  the  pleasures  of 
society.  Of  these — although  it  was  not  properly  speak- 
ing the  gay  season — I had  enough  and  more  than 
enough;  to  satisfy  my  utmost  desires,  and  the  time  pas- 
sed as  rapidly  as  it  is  wont  to  do,  under  the  influence  of 
hospitality,  amusement, and  I hope,  I may  add,  friendship. 

On  the  23rd  of  October  I left  New  York  for  Phila- 
delphia, which  journey  is  usually  performed  in  little 
more  than  half  a day,  by  the  combined  exertions  of 
steam-boat  and  railroad  opposed  to  the  vis  inertia  of 
their  respective  antagonist  elements.  I preferred  how- 
ever, driving  at  leisure  through  the  quiet  woods,  of 
New  Jersey  to  Bordentown,  where  I spent  the  evening, 
and  found  the  whole  village  in  a state  of  excitement, 
owing  to  the  recent  arrival  of  a caravan  of  wild  beasts. 
Of  course  I went  to  see  it.  The  exhibition  of  animals 
was  commonplace  enough,  with  the  exception  of  a very 
find  black-mained  African  lion,  and  a young  female 
elephant,  which  last  had  been  saved  from  the  wreck 
of  an  English  vessel,  on  board  of  which  she  had  been 
so  smitten  by  the  beaux  yeux  of  a bull-dog,  that  she 
could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  leave  the  wreck  till  her 
canine  swain  was  induced  to  jump  into  the  water,  and 
she  followed  him : of  course  this  tender  couple  have 
not  been  separated.  Though  the  wild  beasts  were  of 
an  ordinary  description,  not  so  were  the  caravans  and 
vehicles  in  which  they  were  transported  ; of  these  there 
were  ten  or  twelve,  each  drawn  by  four  or  six  grey 
horses,  no  other  colour  being  admitted  : they  were 
accompanied  by  an  excellent  German  band,  and  their 
puffs  or  show  bills  would  put  to  shame  the  paltry  ef- 
forts of  Messrs.  Womb  well,  Charles  Wright,  or  even 
those  of  a candidate  for  Westminister. 

On  the  following  day  I arrived  in  Philadelphia.  As 
I proposed  revisiting  this  city  in  the  winter,  I made 
but  a short  stay  ; but  during  the  few  days  which  I did 
remain  there,  I experienced  much  kindness  from  the 
two  or  three  families  with  whom  I was  acquainted  ; 
and  among  other  inducements  to  return,  I must  not 
forget  that  I heard  the  harp  played  in  a manner  never 
excelled  by  any  performer,  professor,  or  amateur.  As 


84 


DESCENDANT  OF  WALLACE. 


the  fair  harpiste  was  one  whom  I had  the  pleasure  to 
number  among  my  acquaintance,  I looked  forward  to 
the  winter  months  when  I might  again  enjoy  a musical 
treat,  in  hearing  so  exquisitely  played  an  instrument 
which  is  linked  with  ail  the  earliest  associations  of  my 
childhood. 

At  Baltimore  I met  and  conversed  with  an  elderly 
gentleman  of  the  name  of  Wallace.  In  early  life  he 
had  attended  the  classes  at  Edinburgh,  and  studied 
under  Dr.  Black  and  others.  He  boasts  of  being  the 
only  remaining  lineal  descendant  of  William  Wallace, 
and  still  uses  the  arms  and  motto  of  that  hero  : he  men- 
tioned to  me  that  he  was  once  in  an  engraver’s  shop 
in  Edinburgh,  giving  the  requisite  instructions  for  cut- 
ting his  seal,  when  the  Earl  of  Buchan,  who  was  ac- 
cidentally present,  examined  the  arms  and  motto,  and 
said,  “Sir,  there  is  only  one  family  remaining  entitled 
to  these,  and  that  family  is  in  Virginia.”  This  con- 
firmation of  his  innocent  and  praiseworthy  claims  from 
the  lips  of  a stranger,  must  have  given  him  great  sat- 
isfaction. He  is  a very  cheerful,  communicative,  old 
gentleman,  and  I was  really  pleased  to  interchange  a 
friendly  grasp  with  a hand,  the  veins  of  which  might 
be  enriched  even  with  a drop  of  the  Wallace  blood. 

On  the  1st  of  November  I arrived  at  Washington, 
where  I found  myself  domesticated  in  the  house  of 
my  friend  Sir  C.  Vaughan,  and  surrounded  by  every 
comfort  that  the  kindest  host  could  devise,  or  the 
most  luxurious  traveller  desire.  I should  feel  that  I 
was  trespassing  upon  the  privacy  of  friendship  were  1 
to  enumerate  his  agreeable  and  amiable  qualities  as  a 
companion,  or  his  high  character  as  a diplomatist, 
although  all  who  know  him  would  bear  witness  to 
the  former,  and  the  latter  is  stamped  by  public  opin- 
ion. 

After  spending  a pleasant  fortnight  in  Washington, 
which  city  I intended  to  revisit  in  the  winter,  I pro- 
ceeded on  my  tour  into  the  west  of  Virginia.  As  I 
continued  to  travel  in  my  waggon  with  my  two  po- 
nies, I proposed  halting  the  first  evening  at  Leesburgh, 
a village  about  thirty-two  miles  from  Washington.  I 


WRETCHED  ROADS. 


85 


had  been  warned  that  the  road  was  undergoing  a 
radical  reform,  and  I started  in  a heavy  constant  rain, 
in  order  that  I might  the  better  appreciate  the  neces- 
sity for  such  a measure  : the  first  two  miles  convinced 
me  that  its  adoption  was  never  more  loudly  called  for 
by  Gatton  or  Old  Sarum,  by  the  old  burgh  corpora- 
tions of  Scotland,  or  by  the  late  post-office  regulations 
in  America. 

In  one  place  the  road,  or  rather  the  passage,  with  a 
high  bank  on  one  side  and  a canal  on  the  other,  was 
strewed  so  thickly  with  rocks  that  it  was  impossible 
to  guide  either  horse  or  wheels  between  them  ; the 
aforesaid  flank  barricades  prevented  the  attainment  of 
the  usual  remedial  luxury  in  this  country,  of  driving  by 
the  side  of  the  road  over  stumps  of  trees  or  through  a 
morass,  so  I had  nothing  for  it  but  to  leave  my  four- 
footed  friends  to  their  own  sagacity,  and  to  trust  the 
character  of  the  coachmaker  to  the  mercy  of  the  rocks. 
The  sequel  will  prove  that  the  latter  did  not  deserve 
the  confidence  reposed  in  him  so  well  as  the  former  ; 
they  indeed  scrambled  on  in  a manner  that  amused 
and  astonished  me  ; my  little  Indian  leader,  (for  I 
drove  them  tandem)  was  now  perched  on  a stone  with 
his  tail  above  the  wheeler’s  head,  then  descended  into 
a pool  where  he  was  hardly  visible.  Indeed,  our 
progress  was  something  like  that  agreeable  journey 
(would  that  he  had  never  accomplished  it !)  which  his 
satanic  majesty,  as  described  by  Milton,  made  from 
his  infernal  to  his  future  terrestrial  dominion. 

“ Nigh  founder’d,  on  he  fares, 

O’r  bog,  or  steep,  throagh  straits,  rough,  dense,  or  rare, 

With  head,  hands,  wings,  or  feet,  pursues  his  way.” 


At  length  we  escaped  from  this  confused  mass  of 
rocks,  (which,  after  all,  requires  nothing  more  than  a 
few  barrels  of  gunpowder  and  a few  hundred  Irish 
under  the  guidance  of  Macadam,  to  make  it  into  a 
road,)  and  I fondly  hoped  that  I had  escaped  the  stony 
ordeal,  with  no  further  damage  than  my  own  half- 
dislocated  bones ; he w,  vatu.m  ignarce  mantes ! I 
drove  on  in  safety  for  upwards  of  twenty-five  miles, 

H 


86 


A DISASTER. 


and  was,  indeed,  within  three  of  Leesburgh.  The 
rain  was  falling  in  torrents,  night  had  come  on,  when, 
descending  a small  hill,  I felt  several  strange  and 
uncouths  jots  in  the  waggon,  which  were  too  often 
repeated  for  me  to  think  they  could  be  occasioned  by 
stones  in  the  road  ; and  just  as  I had  resolved  to  get 
out  at  the  bottom  of  the  hill  to  ascertain  the  cause  of 
this  strange  limping  gait  in  my  waggon,  I was  spared 
the  trouble  of  putting  my  intentions  into  execution, 
by  the  sudden  departure  of  one  of  the  forewheels, 
which  placed  me  comfortably  in  the  mud.  Luckily 
my  ponies  were  as  quiet  in  difficulty  as  gallant  in 
action,  so  they  gave  me  no  trouble.  I got  up  to  ex- 
amine the  damage,  and  found  that  the  wheel  was 
positively  annihilated,  the  rim  and  tire  gone,  nowhere 
to  be  found,  and  the  spokes  broken  in  every  direction, 
after  having  warned  me  by  the  aforementioned  jolts  of 
the  unwonted  office  they  were  performing. 

Now,  gentle  readers  of  these  important  memoirs,  if  you 
have  experience  in  similarcases,  or  if  you  have  imagi- 
nation, which  will  do  quite  as  well,  picture  to  yourself 
the  agreeable  predicament  in  which  I was  placed  ; 
alone  in  a strange  road  and  unknown  country,  not  a 
human  being  or  dwelling  in  sight,  inasmuch  as  it  was 
already  dark,  and  my  wagon  full  of  baggage,  which  I 
did  not  which  to  leave  exposed  while  I went  to  seek 
assistance,  even  if  I had  ventured  to  trust  the  station- 
ary propensities  of  the  ponies  : here  was  enough  to 
rouse  the  bilious  ingredients  of  a moderate  temper. 
However,  there  are  few  evils  without  their  attendant 
antidotes  ; and  in  this  case  any  little  tendency  that  I 
might  have  to  warm  or  hasty  feeling,  was  wholesomely 
cooled  and  subdued  by  the  rain,  which  continued 
to  fall  with  unwearied  perseverance  and  undiminished 
vigour. 

Not  having  the  means  of  lighting  one  consolatory 
cigar,  I was  obliged  in  psewefo-Peisian  phrase,  to  “ sit 
upon  the  carpet  of  expectation  and  smoke  the  pipe  of 
patience.”  I took  the  harness  off  my  Indian  leader, 
in  order  that  I might  be  ready  to  pursue  the  first  Sa- 
maritan that  Providence  might  send  to  the  neighbour- 


A NEGRO  SAMARITAN. 


87 


hood,  and  had  not  waited  a quarter  of  an  hour,  when 
a negro  passed,  carrying  some  brooms  to  the  village  ; 
he  seemed  a good-humoured  fellow,  and  willing  to 
render  me  all  the  assistance  in  his  power.  I liked  his 
manner,  and  what  I could  see  of  his  face,  (which  by- 
the-by  amounted  to  little  more  than  the  teeth,)  and 
determined  to  show  a magnanimous  confidence  worthy 
of  the  great  Alexander  and  his  medicine  cup.  Ac- 
cordingly I left  him  in  charge  of  the  waggon  and  one 
quadruped,  while  I threw  myself  on  the  deck  of  the 
other,  which  I had  unharnessed,  and  galloped  back  to 
a house  that  I remembered  to  have  passed  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a mile  from  the  scene  of  my  catastrophe.* 

On  arriving,  I entered  the  first  room,  and  presented 
my  dripping  and  suppliant  form  to  the  landlord  of  the 
tavern,  for  such  k was.  He  proved  very  deaf  to  my 
voice,  not  so  to  my  entreaties  ; for,  after  I had  bellowed 
in  his  ear  a detail  of  my  accident,  which  elicited  sundry 
suppressed  giggles  and  malicious  smiles  from  one  or 
two  personifications  of  mischief  in  petticoats  who  we're 
in  the  adjacent  room,  the  old  gentleman  told  me  that 
I was  welcome  to  his  servant,  horse,  and  cart,  to  trans- 
port my  luggage  to  the  city,  and  that  he  should  charge 
me  nothing.  I think  it  right  to  record  this  among  the 
many  refutations  (which  my  experience  affords)  to  the 
accusation  of  rudeness,  so  frequently  and  unjustly 
brought  against  the  Americans. 

I returned  to  the  waggon,  where  I found  my  faith- 
ful sentinel,  who  assisted  me  to  place  ail  my  effects  in 
the  cart ; and  mounting  him  upon  the  other  pony, 
with  the  baggage-waggon  in  the  rear,  I entered  the 
village  of  Leesburgh,  with  my  two  sable  attendants, 
soaked  and  triumphant.  Dry  clothes,  and  a cup  of  hot 
coffee,  accompanied  by  a broiled  fowl  and  some  smoking 
cakes  of  Indian  corn,  soon  banished  all  unpleasant 
recollections  of  “ mine  accident,”  The  discriminating 
reader  will  doubtless  perceive  from  this  little  narrative, 
written  the  same  evening,  that  my  temper  was  soon 


* The  classical  reader  will  appreciate  the  etymological  propriety  of  this 
expression. 


88 


PURSUIT  OF  A GOBLER. 


restored  to  its  usual  equilibrium ; whether  that  be 
good,  bad,  or  indifferent,  I leave  him  to  discover. 

While  my  waggon  was  undergoing  the  requisite  re- 
pairs, I went  into  the  woods  near  Leesburgh,  in  search 
of  partridges,  or  any  other  game  that  might  fall  in  my 
way.  I was  accompanied  by  a boy  and  his  dog,  a 
very  small  spaniel:  the  day  was  intensely  cold,  it  rained 
and  froze  severely,  and  consequently  I found  my  clothes 
as  stiff  as  boards  upon  my  person.  This  would  have 
been  disagreeable  had  I not  entirely  forgotton  it  in  a 
chase  which  I unexpectedly  undertook.  I was  cross- 
ing a wooded  ravine,  when  a large  gobler  (so  is  the 
full-grown  wild  turkey-cock  called  here)  started  from 
the  brush-wood  ; my  gun  was  only  loaded  with  very 
small  partridge-shGt,  but  I discharged  both  barrels  after 
the  flying  enemy,  accidentally  broke  his  wing  ; he  came 
to  the  ground,  and  began  to  run  like  an  ostrich.  The 
little  spaniel  pursued  in  gallant  style  ; but  when  he 
came  up,  was  too  small  to  hurt  or  hold  his  antagonist. 
I threw  down  my  rifle  and  joined  in  the  pursuit : at 
length  I got  hold  of  the  turkey’s  leg  ; the  grass  was 
slippery  with  ice,  and  in  his  desperate  struggle  to  es- 
cape he  pulled  me  over  on  the  ground,  then  he  scrat- 
ched my  hands  with  his  claws,  and  nearly  blinded  me 
by  flapping  his  great  wings  over  my  face  and  eyes  ; 
at  last  I contrived  to  seize  his  neck,  and  soon  put  an 
end  to  the  contest.  As  he  was  too  heavy  a burthen 
for  my  little  companion,  I slung  him  across  my  back, 
and  shouldering  my  rifle,  returned  in  triumph  to  Lees- 
burgh. During  the  walk  homeward  I felt  no  disposi- 
tion to  complain  of  the  cold  ; for,  independent  of  my 
accoutrements,  the  turkey’s  weight  proved,  on  my 
arrival,  to  be  twenty-eight  pounds. 

On  this  expedition  I tasted  for  the  first  time,  the  Per- 
simmon, a fruit  which  is  excellent  when  over-ripe  and 
slightly  touched  by  frost ; but  woe  to  the  inexperienced 
stranger  who  ventures  upon  it  in  an  earlier  stage  of  ma- 
turity ! for  then  its  bitter  power  of  astringency  is  sur- 
prising, and  seems  capable  of  suspending  for  a time  all 
the  faculties  of  the  lips,  and  binds  up  the  risible  mus- 
cles of  the  sufferer  to  the  same  extent  that  it  excites 
those  of  a spectator. 


EXTRAORDINARY  DUEL. 


89 


While  in  this  village,  I became  acquainted  with  a 

gentleman,  Colonel  M , who  had  been  concerned  in 

one  of  those  extraordinary  duels  unheard  of  in  any 
other  civilized  nation.  He  had  quarrelled  with  Gene- 
ral M , to  whom  he  was  related,  (they  were  either 

first-cousins  or  brothers-in-law,  I forget  which,)  and 
upon  some  occasion  of  meeting  and  dispute,  the  colonel 
knocked  the  general  down.  Of  course,  he  immediately 

challenged  Colonel  M , leaving  him  the  choice  of 

any  medium  of  destruction  which  suited  his  fancy. — 
Colonel  M , knowing  the  general  to  be  an  experien- 

ced swordsman  and  an  unerring  shot,  proposed  to  the 
gentleman  who  came  to  settle  the  preliminaries  of  this 
“ mighty  pretty  quarrel,”  that  he  and  the  general  should 
sit  upon  the  same  barrel  of  gunpowder,  and  by  the  ap- 
plication of  a match,  both  take  a trip  into  the  aerial  re- 
gions. This  very  sociable  proposal  was  declined  by 
the  general ; and  the  colonel,  still  determined  to  have 
the  honour  of  his  relation’s  company  in  the  long  jour- 
ney “ from  which  no  traveller  returns,”  suggested  the 
propriety  of  their  taking  hands  and  jumping  together 
off  the  top  of  the  Capitol.  This  courteous  (query  Cur- 
tins) offer  was  also  declined  by  the  unaccommodating 
and  unreasonable  general  ; and  the  third  proposal  of 
the  colonel  was  musket  and  ball,  at  five  or  ten  paces  (I 
forget  which).  To  this  arrangement  there  could  be  no 
objection.  They  met — fired  together  Dy  signal — the 
general  was  shot  through  the  heart,  while  his  ball,  which 
was  pursuing  its  true  course  to  his  opponent’s  breast, 
struck  against  the  breech  of  his  musket,  glanced  off, 
and  did  no  further  injury  than  shattering  a part  of  one 
of  his  wrists;  he  showed  me  the  scar  of  this  wound. 

I have  given  this  story  exactly  as  it  was  told  me  by 
several  of  the  colonel’s  own  acquaintances  in  the  town 
where  he  lives,  and  have  no  reason  to  doubt  its  correct- 
ness. It  is  only  necessary  to  add,  that  both  these  par- 
ties were  men  of  as  high  standing  as  any  in  their  dis- 
trict, both  members  of  the  legislature,  and  that  this  duel 
was  fought  within  fifty  miles  of  the  capital  of  the  Uni- 
ted States.  Where  can  we  find  in  the  annals  of  early 

H* 


90 


NEGRO  WEDDING. 


Rome,  or  of  Gothic  barbarianism,  or  any  where  else 
(except,  perhaps,  some  instances  of  more  glaring  atro- 
city in  Louisiana),  a personal  quarrel  carried  on  in  a 
spirit  more  vindictive  and  barbarous  ? This  incident 
would,  indeed,  be  scarcely  worth  the  narration,  as  far 
as  relates  to  the  two  individuals  concerned,  (because  it 
might  be  argued  that  in  any  country  two  persons  might 
be  possessed  by  so  rabid  a feeling  of  revenge  or  hatred 
as  to  proceed  to  similarly  savage  extremities,)  but  it 
does  derive  some  importance,  as  a collateral  indication 
of  national  character,  from  the  fact  that  the  parties  were 
in  respectable  and  responsible  situations,  and  that  the 
circumstances  attending  the  duel  were  related  to  me  in 
a manner  rather  laudatory  of  the  courage,  than  depre- 
catory of  the  thirst  of  blood  displayed. — and  that  too 
among  a people  claiming  the  admiration  of  Europe  for 
the  universal  dissemination  of  education,  intelligence, 
and  morality ! 

The  weather  and  the  roads  continuing  equally  exe- 
crable, I went  on  by  slow  stages  to  Romney,  a village 
on  the  northern  neck  of  Virginia,  where  I proposed  to 
remain  a few  weeks  to  arrange  some  business  connected 
with  land  in  its  neighbourhood. 

I was  not  a little  amused  by  the  following  incident, 
which  occurred,  on  the  day  of  my  arrival,  at  the  mar- 
riage of  two  negroes.  The  hymeneal  knot  was  tied  by 
a member  of  the  sable  fraternity.  In  making  the  usual 
inquiry,  whether  any  person  present  could  object  to  the 
nuptial  ceremony,  he  pronounced  in  an  audible  voice 
the  following  exhortation  : — “Whoever  knows  any  just 
cause  why  these  two  persons  should  not  be  joined  in 
holy  matrimony,  speak  now,  hereafier — or  hold 
your  tongue  for  ever  /”  I saw  two  or  three  of  the  la- 
dies attendant  upon  the  bride  ; they  were  most  beauti- 
fully dressed,  especially  one  who  wore  a laced  cap,  with 
coiffure  (I  suppose)  a la  Proserpine. and  a crimson  satin 
gown.  In  sober  earnest,  it  was  a melancholy  reflection, 
that  this  “ happy  couple”  might  be  to-day  or  to-morrow 
separated  for  life  by  the  slightest  whim  of  the  owner  of 
either  of  them  ! If  they  remain  together,  the  issue  of 
the  nuptial  bed  belongs  to  the  owner  of  the  bride ! 


INVIDIOUS  COMPARISON. 


91 


As  the  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  were  very  busy 
in  attendance  upon  the  county  court  which  was  then 
sitting,  I determined  to  spend  a few  days  among  the 
surrounding  mountains,  in  pursuit  of  deer,  bears,  or 
whatever  game  fortune  might  throw  in  my  way.  I 
lodged  the  first  night  at  the  house  of  a farmer,  about 
seven  miles  from  the  village,  who  joined  the  habits  of 
a hunter  to  those  of  an  agriculturist,  as  is  indeed  the 
case  with  all  the  country  people  in  this  district ; nearly 
every  man  has  a rifle,  and  spends  part  of  his  time  in 
the  chase.  My  double  rifle,  of  London  manufacture, 
excited  much  surprise  among  them  ; but  the  conclu- 
ding remark  of  almost  every  inspector  was,  UI  guess  I 
could  beat  you  at  a mark.” 

My  host  received  me  with  much  hospitality,  and  in- 
troduced me  to  several  young  neighbours,  who  were  to 
be  our  companions  on  the  following  day.  The  conver- 
sation was  marked  by  that  invidious  comparison  of  the 
liberty  and  privileges  respectively  enjoyed  by  the  inha- 
bitants of  this  country  and  of  Britain  which  is  but  too 
common  among  Americans  of  the  middle  class  : they 
still  persist  in  considering  as  slaves  a body  of  men  as 
happy,  free,  and  independent  as  themselves.  On  these 
and  many  other  points,  a continued  fire  of  raillery  on 
the  British  was  kept  up ; but  I must  add  it  was  meant 
in  good  humour,  and  was  by  me  so  received.  In  the 
same  spirit,  on  the  following  morning,  they  attempted 
to  walk  me  down,  by  taking  me  over  the  roughest  and 
steepest  ground  (we  were  on  foot  fourteen  hours) ; but 
when  I was  fortunate  enough  to  kill  a fine  fat  buck,  I 
really  believe  that  every  man  present  was  more  glad  of 
my  success  than  if  he  had  killed  it  himself.  VJe  slept, 
among  the  hills,  six  or  seven  on  the  floor,  in  the  cabin 
of  a hospitable  laird , who  gave  ns  an  excellent  supper, 
and  returned  the  followingday, through  the  same  moun- 
tains, without  killing  any  more  deer.  They  were  pret- 
ty scarce,  having  been  massacred  in  hundreds  during  a 
heavy  snow  the  preceding  winter.  I found  the  tracks 
of  several  bears,  but  saw  none.  One  of  the  party  had 
a shot  at  Bruin,  about  a hundred  yards  off ; but  lie  mis- 
sed him. 


92 


REPUBLICAN  EQUALITY. 


The  mountains  being  steep,  and  covered  with  thick 
brushwood,  render  the  walking  somewhat  fatiguing, 
especially  as  their  sides  are  frequently  composed  of  loose 
stones,  which  become,  when  slightly  encrusted  with 
snow,  so  slippery  as  to  give  little  support  or  purchase 
for  the  feet ; but,  although  quite  out  of  pedestrian  prac- 
tice, I went  through  the  day,  thanks  to  my  habits  of 
walking  in  the  highlands,  without  experiencing  any 
unpleasant  fatigue. 

There  is  nothing  more  amusing  among  Americans 
than  the  jealous  care  and  assiduity  with  which  they  as- 
sert and  maintain  the  republican  doctrine  of  equality ; 
while,  on  the  other  hand,  they  observe  distinctions  and 
interchange  titles  which  would  appear  ridiculous  in 
England.  For  instance,  the  very  first  evening  that  I 
passed  under  the  roof  of  my  worthy  host,  not  only  he, 
but  his  farm  assistants  and  labourers,  called  me  11  Char- 
lie which  Christian  appellation  would  doubtless  ap- 
pear very  familiar  to  an  English  ear  in  the  mouth  of 
a person  whose  acquaintance  is  just  made  : the  curious 
observer  of  character,  who  wishes  to  see  the  per  contra 
side  of  the  picture  may  find  in  the  first  village  to  which 
he  comes,  the  small  tavern  where  he  lodges  kept  by  a 
general,  the  broken  wheel  of  his  waggon  mended  by  a 
colonel,  and  the  day-labourers  and  mechanics  speaking 
of  one  another  as  “ this  gentleman,”  and  “ that  gentle- 
man.” 

They  will  not,  probably,  continue  long  to  wage  this 
useless  war  with  common  sense  and  the  common  mean- 
ing of  words  ; but  will  return  to  the  usual  acceptation 
of  terms  acknowledged  by  other  civilized  nations,  among 
whom  a general  is  a man  so  named  from  the  length  or 
celebrity  of  his  military  service,  and  a gentleman  is  so 
called  from  being,  by  birth,  education,  or  habits,  ena- 
bled to  follow  literary,  scientific,  or  liberal  pursuits, 
which,  by  refining  his  manners  and  enlarging  his  mind, 
distinguish  him  from  the  great  mass  of  mankind.  In 
short,  they  cannot  change  human  nature;  and  in  the 
application  of  these  and  similar  absurd  appellations  they 
must  at  length  find,  as  a logician  might  say,  that  in- 
stead of  ennobling  the  subject  they  only  degrade  the 


SURVEY  OF  LAND. 


93 


predicate.  Indeed,  common  candour  compels  us  to  con- 
fess, that  even  in  Britain  the  said  word  “gentleman” 
has  been,  like  its  twin-brother  “ honour,”  sadly  misap- 
plied ; and  these  high  and  noble  appellations,  as  they 
would  be  understood  by  a Surrey  or  a Sidney  in  olden 
time,  or  by  kindred  minds  to  theirs  in  our  own,  belong 
with  about  as  much  propriety  to  the  coxcomb,  the  pro- 
fligate, and  the  duellist  who  assume  them  among  us,  as 
“general”  or  gentleman”  the  worthy  American  tavern 
keeper  or  operative. 

As  the  business  which  led  me  to  me  to  Romney  ob- 
liged me  to  superintend  and  accompany  the  survey  of 
various  tracts  of  land  in  its  neigbourhood,  I became 
thereby  more  familiarly  acquainted  with  the  nature  and 
qualities  both  of  the  soil  and  of  the  inhabitants  than  I 
should  have  been  without  some  such  inducement.  I 
have  before  mentioned  that  the  surrounding  country  is 
mountainous  and  covered  with  thick  woods.  Tne  tim- 
ber is  not  generally  fine,  the  best  of  it  having  been  cut 
for  planks ; but  the  brushwood  is  so  dense,  and  the 
ground  so  rough,  that  the  process  of  surveying  is  ex- 
tremely tedious  and  difficult.  It  occupied  a week,  every 
day  of  which  we  breakfasted  before  daylight,  and  did 
not  cease  our  investigation  till  nightfall,  when  we  be- 
took ourselves  to  the  nearest  house  or  cabin  for  food 
and  rest.  We  were  in  every  instance  kindly  and  hos- 
pitably received  ; and  though  our  hosts  were  in  many 
instances  very  poor,  we  got  generally  a good  supper  of 
Indian-corn  cakes,  buck-wheat,  and  wheat  bread,  coffee, 
milk,  and  broiled  pork  or  venison,  and  slept  comforta- 
bly, sometimes  on  beds,  and  sometimes  in  blankets, 
cloaks,  or  buffalo-skins,  on  the  floor. 

The  process  of  agriculture  (if  it  can  be  so  termed)  in 
this  district  has  usually  been,  to  select  and  clear  some 
favourable  spot  of  woodland  ; to  build  a house  with  part 
of  the  timber,  and  sell  or  burn  the  rest;  to  work  the 
soil,  by  making  it  bear  crop  after  crop  till  it  was  nearly 
exhausted,  then  to  sell  it  for  what  they  could  get,  and 
either  clear  another  piece,  or  what  was  more  common, 
emigrate  to  the  Western  States.  In  this  manner  have 
the  soil  and  the  inhabitants  of  this  district  been  impove- 


94 


EXCURSION'  TO  ALLEGHANY. 


rished.  One  half  of  the  latter  who  remain  are  daily 
talking  of  emigrating ; and,  could  they  pay  off  the 
debts  with  which  they  are  generally  encumbered,  and 
get  any  one  to  buy  their  farms,  they  would  decamp  im- 
mediately. 

During  my  stay  at  Romney  I made  an  excusion  to 
the  glades  of  Alleghany,  being  desirous  of  visiting  that 
district,  and  of  enjoying  the  sport  of  hunting  the  deer 
and  bears  with  which  it  was  said  to  abound.  I could 
not  have  chosen  a more  unfavourable  season  ; for  the 
winter  was  just  setting  in,  the  wind  was  keen,  the 
frost  intense,  and  the  snow  had  not  begun  to  fall, 
without  which  winter  hunting  is  attended  with  but 
little  success.  The  roads  were,  as  usual  in  that 
neighbourhood,  execrable;  moveover,  I was  obliged 
to  cross  several  creeks  or  rivers,  at  places  called  fords. 
Such  indeed  they  might  be  to  an  elephant  or  giraffe, 
but  such  they  did  not  always  prove  to  my  little  Indian 
pony.  On  one  occasion,  having  arrived  upon  a 
branch  of  the  Potomac  when  the  day  was  pretty  far 
advanced,  and  not  having  much  time  to  deliberate,  or 
calculate  the  depth,  u accoutred  as  I was  I plunged 
in  and  before  1 had  reached  the  mid-stream,  was 
pleased  to  find  that  my  Lilliputian  charger  was  as  well 
versed  in  the  art  of  swimming  as  in  that  of  trotting  ; 
although  I must  acknowlege  that  the  satisfaction  con- 
sequent  upon  this  discovery  was  both  cooled  and 
damped  by  the  state  in  which  my  nether  man  was 
obliged  to  complete  the  day’s  journey. 

The  scenery  between  Romney  and  the  glades  is 
generally  of  a wild  and  mountainous  character  ; the 
undulations  of  the  hills  are  almost  too  regular  ; and 
yet,  such  is  their  vast  extent,  and  so  interspersed  are 
they  with  wood  and  water,  that  in  summer  the  pros- 
pect must  be  delightful : indeed,  I have  never  met 
a tract  of  country  resembling  these  glades.  After 
crossing  several  steep  hills,  or  knobs , as  they  are  here 
called,  the  road  opens  upon  a vast  plain,  elevated 
about  eight  hundred  feet  above  the  sea-level.  Here, 
during  the  months  of  July  and  August,  while  other 
districts  around  are  suffering  from  the  fierce  extreme 


THE  ALLEGHANY  GLADES. 


95 


of  heat,  the  herbage  is  luxuriant  and  extremely  abun- 
dant, the  foliage  rich  and  varied,  the  breeze  is  ever 
cool,  and  the  streamlets  which  flow  through  and  fer- 
tilize these  natural  meadows  are  always  cold  and 
transparent.  The  number  of  herds  driven  hither  in 
the  summer  to  pasture  is  almost  incredible.  I believe 
it  to  be  the  healthiest  district  in  the  whole  continent 
of  North  America. 

The  inhabitants  are  a hardy  and  hospitable  race,  and 
almost  all  hunters  by  profession.  In  the  autumn  they 
kill  many  deer  and  bears,  which  they  send  in  wag- 
gons to  Baltimore  and  Washington,  where  they  meet 
a ready  and  profitable  market,  averaging  about  10 
cents  a pound  ; which  price  would  make  a saddle  of 
venison  of  ordinary  size,  or  60  pounds,  bring  600 
cents,  or  nearly  305.  sterling.  In  the  summer  the 
chief  occupation  of  the  inhabitants  is  connected  with 
the  pasturage  before-mentioned.  The  population  is 
by  no  means  dense,  and  the  owners  and  occupants  of 
land  (being  generally  two  or  three  miles  apart)  are 
most  of  them  tavern-keepers,  or,  as  it  is  there  termed, 
they  keep  “ private  entertainment.”  This  distinction 
consists  chiefly  in  the  latter  being  upon  a smaller  and 
less  comfortable  scale  than  the  taverns  ; indeed  the 
only  point  in  which  they  differ  from  other  farmers 
houses  is,  that  the  words  “ private  accommodation,” 
entitles  them  to  make  a charge  in  cases  where  other- 
wise the  duties  of  gratuitous  hospitality  would  be  in- 
cumbent or  inconvenient. 

Before  I went  up  to  these  glades,  I had  been  told 
that  I must  go  and  see  Mr.  A,  Mr.  B,  Mr.  C,  excellent, 
fine,  hospitable  people  ; they  would  be  so  glad  to  see 
me,  and  to  keep  me  a few  days  with  them.  Upon 
arriving,  I was  amused  to  observe  that  each  of  these 
kept  “ private  entertainment ;”  arid  when  I came 
away,  my  bill,  though  reasonable,  was  at  the  usual 
rate  of  tavern  charges.  I record  these  trifles,  not  as 
disparaging  to  the  civility  or  hospitality  of  the  inhabi- 
tants, but  as  illustrative  of  their  habits  and  modes  of 
life  ; indeed,  it  would  be  ungrateful  did  I not  remem- 
ber that  the  farmer  with  whom  I chiefly  resided,  af- 


96 


MR.  CHISHOLM. 


forded  me  every  assistance  in  hunting  that  lay  in  his 
power,  and  showed  me  every  attention  that  a guest 
could  desire.  The  house  was  in  very  bad  repair;  and 
though  the  mercury  was  in  the  very  near  neighbour- 
hood of  zero  of  Reaumer,  I could  see  from  my  bed 
several  pretty  views  of  the  surrounding  country,  not 
through  the  windows,  but  through  the  apertures  be- 
tween the  logs  of  which  the  walls  were  composed ; 
while  the  roof  afforded  me  the  same  agreeable  facilities 
for  star-gazing.  However,  despite  my  usual  admira- 
tion of  the  beauties  of  nature,  I was  unsentimental 
enough  to  fill  these  rustic  vistas  with  hay,  and  by  the 
help  of  a tolerable  fire  I waged  successful  war  against 
the  combined  forces  of  north-west  wind  and  frost. 

We  had  but  indifferent  sport  among  the  deer,  owing 
to  the  cold  dry  weather  and  the  want  of  snow  : how- 
ever, I enjoyed  my  favourite  exercise  of  walking  from 
sunrise  till  evening ; and  was  delighted,  after  the  lazi- 
ness and  languor  induced  by  the  burning  heat  of  last 
summer,  again  to  feel  the  elasticity  of  sinew  and  free- 
dom of  step  with  which  I have  been  wont  to  tread  the 
moor  and  mountain  of  old  Scotland. 

One  of  my  long  rambles  led  me  to  the  house  of  Mr. 
Chisholm,  one  of  a large  and  respectable  family  who 
emigrated  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Inverness,  and 
are  now  among  the  most  wealthy  and  thriving  tenants 
of  the  glades.  As  I drew  near  to  the  farm  1 overtook 
a man  whom  I immediately  guessed  by  his  appearance 
to  be  the  laird.  He  did  not  hear  me  coming  along 
the  grass,  and  when  close  behind  him  I called  out,  in 
Gaelic,  “It  is  a fine  day,  to-day.”  He  started  with 
surprise  at  this  salutation,  answered  it  by  welcoming 
me  to  his  house,  and  soon  made  me  regret  that  my 
knowledge  of  Gaelic,  confined  as  it  was  to  a few  phrases, 
did  not  enable  me  to  carry  on  the  conversation  in  that 
language  ; however,  we  “cracked”  long  over  scenes  of 
mutual  interest  and  recollection — the  wilds  of  Badenoch, 
the  woodlands  of  Inverishie,  and  the  ducal  mansion 
of  Kinrara.  and  the  neighbouring  abode  of  Rothie- 
murkes. 

With  many  mingled  emotions  did  I listen  to  the 


RECOLLECTIONS  OF  SCOTLAND 


97 


tongue  that,  in  native  accents,  spoke  of  these  well- 
known  scenes.  They  may  be  of  little  interest  to  others, 
they  may  be  unknown  to  fame  ; but  when  one  who 
has  highland  blood  in  his  veins— whose  early  foot  has 
trodden  the  heath-covered  mountain — whose  young 
memory  was  impregnated  with  the  wheeling  flight  of 
the  eagle,  the  timid  eye  and  free  bound  of  the  roe,  the 
hoarse  plash  of  the  waterfall  and  the  slumbering  loch, 
its  pebbled  margin  fringed  with  weeping  birch,  and  its 
bosom  reflecting  the  rugged  and  dusky  forms  of  the 
cliffs  and  promontories  by  which  it  is  indented — when 
such  a one  feels  his  heart  unmoved,  his  spirit  unstirred 
by  these  recollections,  let  him  doff  that  tartan  which 
has  well-earned  its  green  and  crimson  glory  in  many 
a field  from  Bannockburn  to  Waterloo — let  him  doff* 
it, 

“ and  hang  a calf-skin  on  his  recreant  limbs  !” 

In  no  other  part  of  the  world  has  my  national  pride 
been  more  gratified  than  in  this  country ; whicli 
abounding  as  it  does  in  settlers  from  every  nation  in 
Europe,  affords  a fairer  opportunity  than  that  can  be 
found  at  home  of  comparing  their  respective  characters 
under  similar  circumstances.  I think  I can  affirm  with 
equal  truth  and  pleasure,  that  the  Scotchmen  who 
have  settled  in  the  United  States,  have  earned  for 
themselves  a higher  average  character  for  honesty, 
perseverance,  and  enterprise,  than  their  rival  settlers 
from  any  other  part  of  the  old  world. 

The  worthy  and  estimable  man  under  whose  roof 
I here  found  myself,  had,  when  a boy,  herded  cattle 
and  sheep  on  the  hill-side  in  the  highlands.  On  arri- 
ving here,  his  sobriety  and  laborious  industry  had  pro- 
cured him  employment ; in  a short  time  he  was  ena- 
bled to  buy  a small  tract  of  land,  which  he  yearly  in- 
creased and  improved  : and  he  has  employed  the  leisure 
hours  which  the  management  of  a pasture  farm  allows 
during  the  winter,  in  repairing  the  defects  of  early 
education,  and  in  storing  his  mind  with  practical 
knowledge  and  general  information.  A sister,  who 
acts  as  housekeeper,  has  joined  him ; several  of  his 


i 


98 


SHOOTING. 


brothers  have  also  settled  in  the  neighbourhood  ; and 
there  is  not  in  the  district  a family  more  highly  or 
deservedly  respected. 

It  could  have  little  interest  for  the  reader  were  I to 
give  the  detail  of  my  sporting  life  in  the  Alleghanies. 
We  killed  a good  number  of  deer,  and  sometimes  amu- 
sed ourselves  with  shooting  at  a mark  for  small  wa- 
gers ; on  these  Latter  occasions,  I witnessed  the  skill  of 
most  of  the  professional  hunters  in  the  district : at  a 
short  distance  (from  twenty-five  to  fifty  yards)  they 
shot  with  much  precision ; but,  although  their  rifles 
are  so  long  and  heavy  in  metal,  their  performance  at 
a hundred  and  fifty  yards  was  very  inferior  to  that  of 
many  sportsmen  whom  I could  name  in  Britain.  When 
I went  first  among  them,  they  were  rather  inclined  to 
jeer  at  my  light  short  rifle  carrying  two  large  balls  ; 
but,  after  a few  days  in  the  woods,  when  they  found 
that  I could  frequently  hit  a running  deer,  (a  shot 
which  they  rarely  attempted,)  their  disrespect  for  my 
weapon  was  much  diminished,  especially  as  they  often 
wounded  without  killing  their  deer  ; while  my  heavy 
balls,  if  struck,  generally  gave  a mortal,  or  at  least  a 
disabling  wound. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Return  to  Washington. — The  Capitol. — The  Senate  — The  Ladies’  Gal- 
lery.— Debate  on  the  relations  with  France. — Mr.  Clay. — Mr  Webster. 
— Public  Demonstration  on  the  Death  of  a Citizen  — Attempt  upon  the 
Life  of  the  President — his  miraculous  Escape. — Mr.  Calhoun. — Mount 
Vernon. — Observations  on  Washington’s  Tomb. — Singular  Occurrence 
illustrative  of  the  State  of  Society  in  Louisiana. — Melancholy  Appear- 
ance of  the  City  of  Washington — its  Site. — Method  of  assessing  its  In- 
habitants.— Absence  of  local  attachment  in  American  Agriculturists 
contrasted  with  the  Scottish  Love  of  Country. 

From  the  glades  I returned,  via  Romney  and  without 
accident,  to  Washington,  again  to  enjoy  the  luxuriesof 
agreeable  society  and  a comfortable  home  ; for  such  to 
me,  in  the  fullest  sense  of  the  word,  did  Sir  C.  Vaughan 
Tender  his  house. 


THE  CAPITOL. 


99 


My  first  object  of  cariosity  and  interest  was  natural- 
ly the  Congress,  and  I accordingly  drove  to  the  Capi- 
tol ; an  edifice  in  the  appearance  of  which  a stranger, 
who  judges  from  the  relations  of  British  travellers,  will 
be  agreeably  surprised.  It  certainly  cannot  claim  the 
merit  of  simplicity  or  uniformity  of  character,  neither 
are  its  proportions  or  decorations  in  strict  accordance 
with  the  rules  of  Grecian  architecture  ; but  the  effect 
is  altogether  grand  and  imposing;  and  well  will  it  be 
for  America,  if  the  moral  materials  composing  its  con- 
gressional assembly  prove  as  well-proportioned  and  du- 
rable as  the  building  in  which  they  hold  their  sittings. 
The  circular  hall,  or  saloon,  in  which  are  four  entran- 
ces, to  the  vestibule,  the  library,  the  Senate,  and  the 
Hall  of  Representatives,  is  spacious,  and  well  lighted  by 
a dome.  It  seems  a favourite  lounging-place  for  idlers 
of  all  classes,  and  contains  four  pictures  by  Colonel 
Trumbull,  representing  scenes  connected  with  the  re- 
volutionary history.  On  this  account  they  may  be  in- 
teresting to  Americans,  but  to  a lover  of  the  fine  arts 
they  offer  no  attraction  whatever.  The  Hall  of  Repre- 
sentatives is  a spacious  semi-circular  apartment,  con- 
taining galleries  for  reporters  and  the  public,  and  hav- 
ing its  floor  furnished  with  an  elbow-chair  and  a table 
for  each  member. 

It  happened,  when  I arrived,  that  the  question  before 
the  house  was  not  one  of  much  importance  : and  the 
scene,  for  the  time,  resembled  rather  a large  club  or  cafe 
than  a deliberative  assembly ; for  certainly  three- 
fourths  of  the  members  were  writing  their  private  let- 
ters, reading  newspapers,  and  chatting  as  comfortably 
as  if  they  had  been  in  the  front  room  of  Brooke’s  or 
White’s.  This  hall,  from  its  dimensions  and  decora- 
tions, possesses  every  requisite  for  the  purpose  to  which 
it  is  appropriated,  except  one,  and  that  one  is  the  most 
vital : it  is  scarcely  possible  to  hear  two  words  in  five, 
uttered  by  a speaker  of  ordinary  lungs.  I have  been 
told,  that  Mr.  Clay,  when  he  was  in  that  house,  and 
some  few  others,  could  make  themselves  understood  ; 
but  I think  I never  saw  an  apartment  of  the  same  mag- 
nitude in  which  the  voice  was  so  completely  lost ; and 


100 


THE  SENATE. 


even  breathless  silence  will  not  avail  much,  as  there  is  ' 
an  echo  which  so  mingles  the  present  with  the  prece- 
ding tones,  as  to  render  distinctness  altogether  impos- 
sible, except  by  means  of  the  very  slowest  enunciation; 
a method  quite  incompatible  with  the  vehement  and  re- 
dundant declamation,  which  is  one  of  the  leading  fea- 
tures of  American  oratory. 

The  Senate  is  of  much  smaller  size,  and  in  everyway 
better  adapted  for  argumentative  debate  : it  is  also  fur- 
nished with  galleries  for  reporters  and  the  public,  and 
round  the  exterior  curve  of  the  semicircle,  on  the  floor, 
is  one  for  ladies,  and  for  those  who  have  leave  ot  ad- 
mission from  senators  ; while  in  the  base  of  the  semi- 
circle, behind  the  President’s  chair,  is  a large  recess 
open  to  members  of  the  other  house  and  to  foreign  mi- 
nisters. 

As  I had  obtained  the  favour  of  the  entree  to  the  low- 
er, or  ladies’  gallery,  I entered  there  and  found  every 
seat  occupied  by  a fair  politician.  There  was  moreover, 
a considerable  number  of  gentlemen  standing  to  hear 
the  discussion.  I had  not  stood  there  more  than  five 
minutes,  when  one  of  the  door-keepers  was  sent  in  with 
a chair  for  my  convenience.  I was,  I confess,  struck 
with  this  polite  attention  to  a stranger:  whether  I was 
indebted  to  the  V ice-President  or  to  some  other  senator 
for  it,  I regretted  much  that  I had  not  an  opportunity 
of  thanking  him  for  a civility  which  I have  much  plea- 
sure in  recording. 

The  discussion  being  upon  local  and  unimportant 
subjects,  I did  not  remain  long  on  this  occasion,  but 
returned  a few  days  atter wards,  to  hear  the  debate  up- 
on the  relations  with  France.  The  circumstances 
connected  with  this  question  are  well-known.  The 
President,  in  his  message,  demanded  from  Congress 
provisional  authority  for  making  reprisals  upon  French 
property,  in  the  contingency  of  the  (continued  non- 
payment by  France  of  the  indemnity  promised  by  her 
in  the  treaty  of  1831  to  the  United  States.  In  order 
fully  to  understand  the  management  of  this  important 
question  in  the  Senate,  it  must  be  remembered,  that  in 
that  body  the  opposition  had  a majority,  while  in  the 


MR.  CLAY. 


101 


House  of  Representatives  they  were  in  a minority. 
The  debate  was  opened  by  Mr.  Clay,  the  framer  of 
the  resolutions,  adopted  by  the  committee  on  foreign 
relations,  the  last  of  which  formed  the  ground-work  of 
the  present  motion,  “ that  it  was  inexpedient,  at  the 
present  time,  to  grant  the  provisional  authority  re- 
quested by  the  President.” 

It  is  well  known  that  Mr.  Clay  is  one  of  the  most 
vehement  and  eloquent  opponents  of  the  President’s 
government ; and  here  certainly  was  a magnificent 
opportunity  for  displaying  those  peculiar  powers  which 
distinguish  his  oratory,  inasmuch  as  the  word  “ repri- 
sals” was  so  much  calculated  to  wound  the  pride  and 
dignity  of  France,  and  to  give  that  nation  a plea  for 
breaking  off  all  further  negotiation  upon  the  subject. 
All  the  property  and  intelligence  of  America  ,were 
naturally  averse  to  a war  with  France;  the  inevitable 
consequence  of  which,  even  if  successful,  must  be  an 
expense  of  money  threefold  greater  than  the  indemnity 
demanded  ; and  Mr.  Clay  had  a fine  occasion,  and  one 
which  none  could  have  improved  better  than  himself, 
of  uttering  a philippic  against  the  government  for 
giving  France  so  fair  an  excuse  for  transferring  the 
question  from  her  diplomatists  to  her  admirals : but 
he  took  a wiser  and  more  statesman-like  course ; arid 
in  a speech  at  once  able,  temperate,  and  eloquent  ar- 
gued the  expediency  of  deferring  any  legislative  mea- 
sure in  regard  to  the  relations  with  France — he  depre- 
cated all  national  division  and  dissension  on  this  ques-' 
tion,  and  expressed  his  willingness  to  modify  his  mo- 
tion, so  as  to  secure  a unanimous  vote  upon  the  occa- 
sion. 

The  speeches  of  most  of  those  who  took  part  in  the 
debate  adopted  a similar  tone  ; and  a resolution,  pro- 
posed by  Mr.  Webster,  and  slightly  altered  by  Mr. 
Clay’s  original  motiou.  was  carried  unanimously. 

The  whole  debate  was  highly  creditable  both  to  the 
temper  and  ability  of  the  house,  and  that  not  so  much 
from  what  was  said,  as  from  what  was  not  said,  on  a ques- 
tion touching  national  vanity,  and  perhaps  almost  na- 
tional honour,  and  when  it  was  so  difficul  t to  avoid  expres- 

i* 


102 


MR.  CLAY. 


sions  irritating  to  the  feelings  of  the  respective  parties 
to  the  treaty.  The  original  sentence  in  the  President’s 
message  which  caused  the  debate,  has  been  much 
censured  for  its  imprudence  — whether  justly  or  not, 
is  a matter  of  doubt.  In  all  such  inquiries  the  object 
in  view  must  be  first  clearly  ascertained.  If  that  ob- 
ject was  to  maintain  peace  with  France  by  every 
means  compatible  with  the  honour  of  the  United  States, 
the  paragraph  in  question  was  imprudent ; but  the 
President  was  probably  influenced  by  other  views. 
No  man,  much  less  a stranger,  has  a right  to  impute 
motives  ; but  they  are  to  any  observer  a fair  and  open 
field  for  conjecture ; and  it  is  possible,  that  the  Presi- 
dent was  not  very  averse  to  a little  quarrel  with  France, 
seeing  that  his  revenue  was  unburthened,  and  that 
such  a national  cause  was  calculated  to  cement  that 
union  between  the  States,  which  various  conflicting 
accidents  and  interests  had  occasionally  threatened  to 
weaken,  since  the  last  war. 

To  return  to  Mr.  Clay  : — his  manner  and  voice  are 
both  admirably  adapted  for  a leader  in  a popular 
assembly ; the  former  is  earnest  and  energetic  (though 
perhaps  deficient  in  that  grace  and  dignity  which 
characterize  the  oratory  of  Earl  Grey) ; the  latter  is 
full  and  manly;  and  though  its  tones  cannot  be 
pronounced  musical,  still  they  are  modulated  to  the 
subject-matter,  and  produce  upon  the  hearer  that  most 
powerful  of  all  effects — a conviction  that,  if  provoked, 
the  lion,  could  roar  yet  more  terribly.  As  an  illustra- 
tion of  this  last-mentioned  principle,  the  Miltonian 
reader  may  remember  with  what  mighty  force  that 
great  master  has  applied  it,  when,  after  describing  the 
power,  and  strength,  and  terror,  with  which  the  Son 
drove  upon,  and  overthrew  the  rebellious  host  of  angels, 
he  concludes — 

“ Yet  half  his  strength  he  put  not  forth,  but  checked 
His  anger  in  mid-volley.” 


Mr.  Webster  spoke  a few  words  upon  this  question, 
but  they  were  delivered  with  that  grave  impressive 


ATTEMPT  TO  KILL  THE  PRESIDENT.  103 

manner,  resulting  from  conscious  power.  In  a cause 
where  the  result  was  dependent  upon  logical  argument 
and  profound  knowledge  of  constitutional  law,  I should 
imagine  that  Mr.  Webster  would  find  few  equals,  and 
no  superior,  on  either  side  of  the  Atlantic  ; but,  in 
directing  tfie  impulse  and  exciting  the  passions  of  a 
popular  assembly,  he  is,  probably,  less  successful  than 
Mr.  Clay. 

About  this  time  a member  of  Congress  died  suddenly, 
in  consequence  of  which  the  houses  adjourned  for 
two  days.  The  respective  members  wore  a crape  on 
the  arm,  and  the  greater  part  attended  his  funeral.  It 
may  not  be  irrelevant  here  to  remark,  that  the  death 
of  a citizen  in  one  of  the  Atlantic  cities  of  the  United 
States  produces  a greater  sensation,  and  is  accompanied 
with  more  demonstration  of  respect,  than  a similar 
event  in  any  other  country  which  I have  seen.  If  a 
member  of  Congress  dies,  the  houses  adjourn,  as  above- 
mentioned  ; if  a wealthy  and  influential  merchant  dies, 
as  was  lately  the  case  in  Baltimore,  his  funeral  is 
attended  by  great  numbers  of  his  fellow-citizens,  inde- 
pendently of  his  relatives  : and  even  the  flags  of  the 
shipping  in  harbour  are  hoisted  half-mast  high.  Simi- 
lar instances  might  be  adduced  in  other  walks  of  life. ^ 

At  the  public  funeral  of  the  member  of  congress 
above-mentioned,  an  attempt  was  made  upon  the  life 
of  the  President,  the  failure  of  which  can  only  be  at- 
tributed to  a Providential  interference,  such  as  the  scep- 
tic may  deny,  or  the  thoughtless  worldling  may  ridi- 
cule, but  which  is  at  the  same  time  more  consonant 
with  religion  and  reason  than  a belief  in  the  wonderful 
coincidence  of  fortuitous  circumstances,  necessary  to 
produce  the  same  result.  The  wretch  who  attempted 
this  murder  (and  who  appears  to  labour  under  that 
dangerous  kind  of  insanity  which  just  trembles  upon 
the  verge  of  responsibility,)  stood  only  a few  feet  from 
the  President,  under  the  portico  of  the  Capitol.  He 
deliberately  snapped  a pistol  at  him,  which  missed  fire, 
and  before  his  arm  could  be  arrested,  he  drew  another 
from  his  pocket,  snapped  it,  and  it  also  missed  fire, 
when  he  was  knocked  down  and  secured.  On  exam- 


104 


MR.  CALHOUN. 


ination  it  was  found,  that  both  pistols  were  new,  both 
carefully  loaded  with  ball  and  good  powder  ; yet  both 
the  detonating  caps  exploded  without  igniting  the 
charge.  I had  this  account  from  several  gentlemen, 
who  were  close  to  the  President  at  the  time  ; and  on 
the  trial  which  followed,  it  was  established  and  re- 
corded by  legal  process.  Let  the  “ Doctrinaries”  of 
chance  account  for  it  as  they  can. 

The  old  General  showed  his  ancient  and  undoubted 
courage  upon  the  occasion.  When  the  first  pistol  was 
snapped  at  him,  he  looked  straight  at,  and  went  straight 
towards  the  wretch  who  held  it ; and  when  the  second 
was  presented,  he  never  swerved,  but  attacked  his  op- 
ponent with  a stout  stick,  which  he  usually  carries. — 
Had  not  a blow  from  some  other  hand  anticipated  his 
intention,  he  would  probably  have  spared  the  law  the 
trouble  of  investigating  the  matter. 

It  is  singular  how  little  noise  or  feeling  the  occur- 
rence seems  to  have  excited,  except  in  the  shameless 
and  villainous  instance  of  one  or  two  scribblers  in  the 
government  newspapers,  who  wished  to  attiibute  the 
attempt  at  assassination  to  the  effect  produced  by  the 
speeches  of  Mr.  Calhoun.  The  character  of  that  gen- 
tleman needs  no  defence  or  refutation  of  such  calum- 
nies. He  is  indeed  one  of  the  most  distinguished  men 
in  the  Union.  His  name  is  familiar  to  Europe  as  the 
great  champion  of  the  Southern  States,  and  the  pillar 
of  that  nullification  question  which  threatened  at  one 
time  to  dismember  the  confederation.  His  manner  is 
lofty  and  commanding  ; his  eye,  searching,  keen,  and 
deeply  set  under  a considerate  brow.  He  is  an  acute 
reasoner,  and  the  analytic  power  of  his  mind  is  most 
remarkable.  Some  there  are  who  consider  him  as  a 
more  eminent  statesman  than  either  Clay  or  Webster: 
this  is  a question  that  I do  not  feel  able  or  called  upon 
to  decide.  That  they  are  all  three  men  of  whom 
America  has  just  reason  to  be  proud, is  a truth  to  which 
I have  much  pleasure  in  here  recording  my  testimony. 

On  the  2d  of  February  I went  to  visit  the  tomb  of 
the  illustrious  Washington,  at  Mount  Vernon,  where 
he  resided  chiefly  during  the  last  few  years  of  his  life. 


MOUNT  VERNON. 


105 


It  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Potomac,  about  six- 
teen miles  below  the  Capital.  The  road  thither,  as  far 
as  Alexandria,  is  tolerably  good  ; but  the  last  eight 
miles  partake  of  the  usual  Virginian  variety  of  holes, 
stones,  and  mud.  Indeed,  it  appears  as  if  the  Ameri- 
can pilgrims  to  the  tomb  of  their  great  founder  had 
determined  to  self-inflict  the  penances  imposed  upon 
the  Catholic  devotees  going  to  the  shrine  of  a patron 
saint ; except  that  the  peas  in  the  shoes  of  the  latter, 
even  if  unboiled,  are  far  preferable  to  the  neck-twisting 
rib-breaking  jolts  voluntarily  endured  by  the  former. 
However,  I speak  rather  from  what  I saw  than  from 
what  I felt,  inasmuch  as  I,  and  several  others  of  the 
party,  went  on  horseback. 

The  situation  of  Mount  Vernon  is  on  a pleasant  em- 
inence, commanding  a view  of  the  river  ; the  grounds 
about  the  house  are  undulating  and  well  wooded. 
Altogether  it  must  be  a very  agreeable  summer  resi- 
dence. Everything  is  left,  as  nearly  as  possible,  in  the 
same  state  as  when  it  was  occupied  by  its  great  pos- 
sessor. The  books,  the  writing-table,  the  small  ver- 
andah, where  he  used  to  walk  ; the  key  of  the  Bastile, 
sent  him  by  La  Fayette — all  remain  unaltered  and  un- 
removed, as  if  he  had  died  but  yesterday  ; and  all  con- 
tribute to  interest  the  observer,  by  admitting  him,  in 
fancy,  to  an  intimacy  with  the  illustrious  hero,  while 
they  bear  collateral  evidence  to  that  unostentatious  sim- 
plicity of  character  justly  assigned  to  him  by  history. 

Leaving  the  house,  we  went  out  towards  the  tomb 
where  his  ashes  repose  ; and  I shall  not  soon  forget  the 
overwhelming  feelings  with  which  I viewed  it.  We 
were  first  shown  the  spot  where  his  remains  had  been 
deposited  previously  to  their  removal  to  their  present 
situation, — a melancholy  mound  of  earth,  shadowed 
by  a few  cypresses,  the  hollow  void  within  scarcely 
protected  by  a scanty  grating  from  the  desecrations  of 
ignorant  childhood,  idle  mischief,  or  filthy  vermin  ! 
The  spot  to  which  his  remains  have  within  the  last 
few  years  been  removed,  is  a vault  in  the  side  of  a bank, 
also  shadowed  by  a few  dwarf  shrubs,  and  protected 
from  the  air  by  an  iron  door.  The  building,  if  it  can 


106 


Washington’s  tomb. 


be  called  one,  is  a miserable  looking  brick  hovel.  Over 
the  door  is  an  inscription  from  the  Bible — respectable 
and  venerable  on  that  account,  but  as  applicable  to  the 
humblest  peasant,  as  to  the  great  sleeper  beneath. 

I hope  1 do  not  attach  any  improper  importance  nor 
any  bigotted  reverence  to  mere  sepulchral  decoration 
or  magnificence ; still  I own  that  I could  not  here  re- 
press my  feelings  of  indignation  and  disgust  ! The 
memory  of  Washington  is  dear  to,  and  revered  by,  not 
only  America,  but  mankind  ; and  mankind  had  a right, 
according  to  all  the  rules  of  good  taste,  good  feeling, 
and  good  example,  to  expect,  either  that  the  illustrious 
dust  should  have  been  allowed  to  remain  in  the  sim- 
ple mound  where  it  first  slept,  shadowed  by  the  melan- 
choly boughs  that  first  waved  over  it,  and  hallowing  the 
soil  where  it  had  first  sought  repose  from  the  cares  of 
life  ; or,  if  it  had  been  removed,  it  should  have  been  to 
a sepulchre  worthy  of  its  name  and  glory,  and  not  to  a 
wretched  vault,  to  which  it  is  no  exaggeration  to  affirm, 
that  a British  nobleman  would  have  been  almost  asha- 
med to  consign  the  remains  of  a faithful  old  depen- 
dant ! 

It  is  vain  here  to  urge  the  well-known  and  splendid 
truths  that  have  been  uttered  over  the  spots  consecrated 
by  departed  greatness.  To  no  one  who  ever  lived  is 
the  glorious  Periclean  eulogy  of  HZda  yr\  <ru<p0c;  more 
applicable  than  to  Washington  ; nor  is  the  celebrated 
inscription  in  St.  Paul’s  to  its  architect,  “ Si  monumen- 
tum,  requiris  circumspice,”  less  so.  These  sentiments 
merely  prove  that  the  fame  and  glory  of  the  illustrious 
dead  can  neither  be  diminished  nor  tarnished  by  the 
neglect  of  their  countrymen  : but  does  that  palliate  or 
excuse  such  neglect?  I am  aware  that  some  reasons 
are  adduced  in  justification  of  the  conduct  here  censur- 
ed. The  public  is  informed,  that  it  was  Washington’s 
wish  that  his  remains  might  be  deposited  in  a particu- 
lar place,  and  that  his  family  are  not  sufficiently  opu- 
lent to  raise  a worthy  monument  to  his  memory.  These 
are  but  shallow  pretexts,  or,  at  best,  groundless  argu- 
ments : the  commands  of  the  living,  in  such  cases,  are 


SINGULAR  OCCURRENCE. 


107 


the  freshness  of  their  grief;  after  which  disobedience 
to  them  may  be  an  incumbent  duty.  With  this  good 
and  holy  purpose  America  should,  after  a decent  time, 
have  exceeded  the  injunctions  of  her  parent,  and  her 
filial  disobedience  would  have  been  applauded  by  the 
universal  consent  of  mankind. 

About  this  time  I read  in  a New  Orleans  newspa- 
per the  following  occurrence,  illustrative  of  the  state  of 
society  in  Louisiana  : — “ On  the  3rd  of  February  1835, 
a little  before  the  usual  time  of  the  meeting  of  the  House 
of  Representatives,  Mr.  J.  Grymes,  a distinguished  law- 
yer of  New  Orleans,  entered  the  hall ; and  advancing 
towards  Mr.  Labranche,  the  Speaker  of  the  House, 
raised  his  cane  and  struck  him  ; whereupon  Mr.  L. 
drew  a pistol,  and  fired  at  Mr.  G.  the  ball  passed  through 
the  lappet  of  his  coat ; he  immediately  drew  a pistol, 
and  fired  at  Mr.  L.  who  fell  wounded.  After  a long 
dispute  as  to  the  right  of  the  house  to  try  Mr.  G.  for 
this  assault,  it  was  carried  in  the  affirmative,  and  he 
was  brought  up  to  the  bar  and  reprimanded  /” 

The  month  of  March  having  now  arrived  ; and  as 
the  rivers  had  become  navigable,  and  the  roads  were 
supposed  to  be  passable,  I began  to  meditate  an  excur- 
sion to  Richmond  and  other  parts  of  Virginia.  The 
Congress  had  broken  up  on  the  4th,  and  with  it  the  bus- 
tle and  gaiety  of  Washington  society.  Every  day  an- 
nounced new  departures  ; and  the  scattered  village,  de- 
nominated a city,  began  to  assume  the  silent  and  me- 
lancholy appearance  which  is  natural  to  its  construc- 
tion, and  which  is  only  partially  cheered  by  the  stirring 
season  of  congress.  In  truth  it  is  impossible  to  imagine 
a more  comfortless  situation  for  a town,  or  a town  more 
foolishly  and  uncomfortably  laid  out.  The  houses  are 
small,  and  their  walls  thin  ; the  streets  are  so  broad  as 
to  render  the  insignificant  appearance  of  the  buildings 
more  remarkable  ; and  the  dust  in  dry  weather  is  only 
to  be  equalled  in  annoyance  by  the  filth  and  mud  after 
rain.  The  only  tolerable  street  is  the  Pennsylvania 
Avenue,  which  is  above  a mile  long,  and  is  the  best 
piece  of  macadamized  road  ill  the  United  States ; but 
they  appear  never  to  scrape  the  dust  off ; and 


108 


CITY  OP  WASHINGTON. 


I have  been  more  nearly  blinded  and  choked  there,  after 
three  days  of  dry  weather  in  March,  than  I have  been  in 
Rotten  Ro  won  a Sunday  in  June  ; though  in  the  former 
case  the  dust  was  raised  by  one  solitary  hackney-coach, 
and  the  latter  was  the  joint  production  of  horses  and 
carriages  to  be  counted  by  thousands. 

Many  streets  are  in  embryo,  many  only  in  prescience, 
or  rather  imagination,  where  their  existence  will  pro- 
bably terminate  as  it  began.  Paradise-row  must  be 
content  to  be  “ represented”  by  one  small  brick  shop  or 
store — Pleasant-place,  by  two  groceries  and  a livery- 
stable — while  Prospect-place  may,  with  its  two  or  three 
separate  and  humble  tenements,  continue  to  look  over 
the  damp  swampy  flat  extending  from  the  town  to  the 
Potomac. 

The  greater  part  of  the  site  of  Washington  is  proba- 
bly the  bottom  of  an  old  lake,  of  which  the  Capitol  Hill 
formed  one  of  the  borders  ; and  though  the  preceding 
names  are  jestingly  adduced,  the  joke  is  not  very  far 
from  the  truth.  The  inhabitants  seem  to  have  persist- 
ed, in  defiance  equally  of  experience  and  common  sense 
in  believing  that  their  city  was  one  day  to  become  the 
centre  of  wealth  and  commerce,  as  it  is  of  legislation ; 
and  appeared  to  overlook  the  trifling  impediments  that 
the  soil  of  all  the  neighbouring  country  is  wretchedly 
poor,  that  the  channel  of  the  Potomac  is  so  shallow  that 
neither  merchant  ship  nor  frigate,  nor  any  craft  of  five 
hundred  tons  burthen,  can  come  up  to  their  harbour  of 
George-town  ; and  that,  moreover,  they  must  compete 
with  the  neighbouring  wealthy  and  flourishing  town  of 
Baltimore. 

In  pursuance  of  their  commercial  dreams,  they  have 
carried  on  a canal,  parallel  for  many  miles  with  the 
stream  of  the  Potomac,  upon  borrowed  Dutch  capital ; 
the  interest  of  which  they  are  unable  to  pay  without  a I 
yearly  begging  petition  to  Congress,  who  will  in  the 
end  be  obliged  also  to  pay  the  principal.* 

* I have  been  informed  that  the  rivalry  and  jealousy  between  the  two 
towns  of  Alexandria  and  George-town  was  the  real  cause  of  the  present 
location  of  the  capital,  each  of  them  wishing  to  become  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment. Either  of  them  would  in  fact,  be  much  more  desirable  situations  : 


METHOD  OE  ASSESSMENT. 


100 


The  funds  for  defraying  the  ordinary  municipal  ex- 
penses, such  as  constables,  street-paving,  lighting,  &c. 
are  raised  by  assessment  on  the  inhabitants,  imposed 
by  the  corporation,  amounting  upon  an  average  to 
three-quarters  of  one  per  cent,  on  the  property  of  each 
individual.  This  method  is  very  commonly  practised 
in  America,  and  appears,  in  political  phrase,  to  “ work 
very  well.” 

What  renders  this  tax  peculiarly  heavy  in  Washing- 
ton is,  that  the  city  is  laid  out  in  lots,  four-fifths  of 
which  are  unoccupied  and  totally  profitless.  These 
are  valued,  rated,  and  assessed  by  the  corporation,  as 
if  they  were  built  upon  and  paid  a rent.  The  only 
appeal  from  their  assessment  is  to  themselves,  in  ano- 
ther form  of  sitting ; the  redress  to  be  obtained,  and 
the  equity  observed,  may  be  estimated  by  those  who 
knew  the  working  of  the  old  burgh  system  in  Scotland. 
“ In  fact,  the  town  of  Washington  was  overwhelmed  by 
debt,  and  the  greater  part  of  it  mortgaged  to  different 
banks,  before  they  subscribed  the  million  dollars  to  the 
great  canal.  Consequently,  the  few  who  possessed 
any  property  free  of  debt  voted  against  that  subscrip- 
tion, knowing  that  the  weight  of  it  must  fall  upon 
them ; but  the  majority,  whose  property  was  already 
mortgaged,  and  who  had  nothing,  were  of  course 
liberal”  and  “ patriotic”  subscribers  on  the  occasion. 
In  fact,  it  may  be  safely  affirmed,  that  unless  Congress 
pays  the  debt,  the  whole  city  of  Washington  (with  the 
exception  of  the  Capitol  Hill  and  other  lots  belonging 


one  from  its  commercial  advantages,  the  other  from  its  greater  facility  to 
inland  communication  and  trade.  As  their  disputes  were  irreconcilable 
the  capital  was  placed  between  them.  I can  scarcely  conceive  how  the 
public,  and  the  able  men  who  then  guided  it,  should  allow  their  decision 
on  so  important  a question  to  be  influenced  by  the  jealousies  of  these  small 
towns  ; but  my  informant  (Mr.  L.)  was  a distinguished  lawyer  and  sena- 
tor, and  his  account  deserves  record.  I cannot  help  believing  that  it  was 
the  intention  of  those  who  founded  the  Capital  that  it  never  should  be  a 
great  manufacturing  or  commercial  city,  from  a fear  of  its  acquiring  too 
great  an  influence,  moral  or  physical,  over  the  public  councils.  The  re- 
ports that  have  attributed  its  situation  to  the  personal  motives  of  General 
"Washington,  false  and  malignant  as  they  are,  drop  harmless  from  the 
rocky  integrity  of  his  character. 

K 


110 


taxes. 


to  the  public)  must  soon  be  for  sale,  and  be  the  pro- 
perty of  the  Dutch  bankers. 

But  let  it  not  be  supposed  that  the  Washingtonians, 
or  other  citizens  of  America,  are  subject  only  to  this 
trifling  tax  ; there  are,  in  addition,  taxes  on  hackney- 
coaches,  taxes  on  tavern-licenses,  taxes  on  dogs,  and 
others,  which  raise  almost  as  fine  a crop  of  grumblers 
and  complainers  as  the  assessed  taxes  in  Britain  can 
produce.  I remember  talking  to  an  intelligent  Ameri- 
can farmer  upon  the  subject  of  public  burthens  ; and, 
upon  comparing  the  sum  paid  by  him  in  proportion  to 
the  yearly  profit  of  his  farm,  I calculated  that  it  was 
much  in  the  same  ratio  with  that  paid  by  a farmer  in 
the  north  of  England  or  south  of  Scotland.  Nor  are 
the  other  circumstances  connected  with  his  position  so 
much  more  favourable  to  the  American  farmer  as  they 
would  appear  to  a superficial  observer.  He  can  buy 
his  horses  cheaper,  his  food  cheaper,  his  land  cheaper, 
and  his  taxes,  direct  and  indirect,  are  lower  ; but  his 
shoes,  and  linen,  and  cloth,  are  dearer  and  worse  in 
quality  ; his  labour  is  dearer  ; his  farming  utensils  are 
also  dearer  : in  fact,  the  chief  advantage  which  he  en- 
joys can  scarcely  be  termed  such  in  fair  or  philosophi- 
cal language,  namely,  he  can  (and  frequently  does) 
exhaust  his  land,  by  demanding  from  it  a perpetual 
succession  of  strong  crops  ; knowing  that  when  he 
has  worked  it  out  he  can  take  in  more  in  his  neigh- 
bourhood, or  move  off  to  the  West,  where  the  proceeds 
of  sale,  even  of  his  exhausted  farm,  will  enable  him  to 
purchase  as  much  of  the  finest  soil  in  the  world  as  he 
can  attempt  to  cultivate. 

Of  course,  these  remarks  only  apply,  in  comparison, 
to  the  proprietary  class  of  farmers  in  England,  who 
are  much  fewer  in  number  than  those  who  pay  rent. 
This  is  a separate  branch  of  the  subject,  and  cannot  be 
touched  upon  here,  as  it  depends  altogether  on  the 
amount  of  rent  in  proportion  to  profit  or  produce. 
That  there  are  profits,  is  undoubtedly  true  ; but  they 
are  not  so  high,  nor  so  enviable,  as  they  are  usually 
represented.  Nor  does  the  American  occupant  of  four 
hundred  acres  of  the  best  land  spend  more  upon  the 
comforts  and  luxuries  of  life,  than  the  occupant  of  two 


SCOTCH  SETTLERS. 


Ill 


hundred  acres  of  similar  land  in  Yorkshire  or  ill  the 
Lothians, — although  the  produce  of  his  farm  returns 
him  nominally  twelve  per  cent,  for  his  invested  capi- 
tal : that  of  the  British  farmer  scarcely  six,  exclusive 
of  expenses. 

This  question  requires  a closer  examination  of  de- 
tail than  can  be  expected  in  a narrative  like  this,  be- 
fore its  discussion  can  lead  to  any  useful  result ; espe- 
cially as  the  soil,  climate,  public  burthens,  price  of 
labour,  and  other  circumstances,  vary  so  widely  in  the 
different  states,  that  an  estimate  formed  accurately  in 
Virginia  or  Massachusetts  will  be  quite  erroneous  if 
applied  to  Ohio  or  Michigan. 

The  American  agriculturists  seem  to  have  little  local 
attachment.  A New  Englander  or  Virginian,  though 
proud  and  vain  of  his  state,  will  move  off  to  Missouri 
or  Illinois,  and  leave  the  home  of  his  childhood  with- 
out any  visible  effort  or  symptom  of  regret,  if  by  so 
doing  he  can  make  ten  dollars  where  he  before  made 
eight.  I have  seen  such  repeated  instances  of  this 
that  I cannot  help  considering  it  a national  feature. 

How  different  this  is  from  the  Scottish  character 
may  be  gathered  from  the  fact  that  a band  of  high- 
landers, of  the  Cameron  and  other  Jacobite  clans,  left 
Scotland,  after  the  rebellion  of  ’45,  and  settled  in  Vir- 
ginia. They  were  so  numerous,  that  for  many  years 
afterwards  the  local  courts  were  obliged  to  have  a 
Gaelic  interpreter,  in  order  to  carry  on  the  requisite 
business  in  regard  to  witnesses  and  juries  ; and  although 
the  place  where  they  fixed  their  abode  was  cheerless 
in  appearance  and  • the  soil  very  poor,  they  have  by 
perseverance  and  industry  improved  and  rendered  it 
comfortable  ; and  are  as  unwilling  to  quit,  that  spot,  in 
search  of  the  fertile  plains  of  the  Mississippi,  as  they 
were  to  leave  their  original  country. 


112 


QUIT  WASHINGTON* 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Quit  Washington  for  a Tour  in  Virginia. — Voyage  down  the'Potomac 
in  the  Champion  Steamer. — Land  Journey  to  Fredericksburgh. — 
Wretched  Road. — Arrival  at  Fredericksburgh. — The  Town. — House 
of  Judge  Coalter — hospitable  Reception  by  that  Gentleman. — Writers 
in  the  Public  Press. — Journey  from  Fredericksburgh  to  Richmond. — 
Perpetual  Danger  of  being  upset. — Arrival  at  Richmond. — The 
Town — its  Society. — Judge  Marshall — his  House. — Ladies  of  Rich- 
mond.— Embark  on  the  James  River. — Intermarriages  of  the  Resi- 
dents on  its  Shores. — Plantations  cultivated  by  Slaves. — Treatment 
of  the  Slaves. — Necessity  for  corporal  Punishment. — Expense  of 
keeping  Slaves. — The  Negro  Character. — Domestic  and  farm-labour- 
ing Slaves. — Overseers. — Marriage  of  Slaves — their  Religion. — 
Agriculture  on  the  Banks  of  James  River. — Law  of  Primogeniture. 
— Embark  in  ’the  Patrick  Henry  Steamer. — Region  visited  by  Sir 
Walter  Raleigh. — Cruelty  of  early  Settlers. — James-town. — Indif- 
ference of  the  American  People  to  sepulchral  Relics. — Ruins  of  the 
former  Governor’s  Palace. — College  endowed  by  William  and  Mary. 
— New  Fortification  at  Old  Point. — Arrival  at  Norfolk. — Bay_of  the 
Chesapeake. — Return  to  Washington. 

On  the  27th  of  March  I quitted  Washington,  to  make 
a short  tour  in  the  districts  of  Virginia  adjacent  to  the 
James  river;  comprising  Richmond,  the  present  capital, 
Williamsburgh,  the  former  seat  of  colonial  government, 
Norfolk,  and  other  towns. 

The  first  part  of  the  journey  is  by  steam-boat,  descend- 
ing the  Potomac  about  sixty  miles.  The  banks  of  this 
river,  after  passing  Mount  Vernon,  are  uninteresting,  and 
I did  not  regret  the  speed  of  the  Champion,  which  per- 
formed that  distance  in  somewhat  less  than  five  hours  ; 
but  this  rate  of  travelling  was  amply  neutralized  by  the 
movement  of  the  stage  which  conveyed  me  from  the 
landing-place  to  Fredericksburgh.  I was  informed  that 
the  distance  was  only  twelve  miles,  and  I was  weak 
enough  (in  spite  of  my  previous  experience)  to  imagine 
that  two  hours  would  bring  me  thither,  especially  as  the 
stage  was  drawn  by  six  good  nags,  and  driven  by  a live- 
ly cheerful  fellow  ; but  the  road  bade  defiance  to  all 
these  advantages — it  was,  indeed,  such  as  to  compel  me 
to  laugh  outright,  notwithstanding  the  constant  and  se- 


JOURNEY  TO  FREDERICKSBURGH. 


113 


vere  bumping  to  which  it  subjected  both  the  intellectual 
and  sedentary  parts  of  my  person. 

I had  before  tasted  the  sweets  of  mud-holes,  huge 
stones,  and  remnants  of  pine-trees,  standing  and  cut 
down  ; but  here  was  something  new,  namely,  a bed  of 
reddish-coloured  clay,  from  one  to  two  feet  deep,  so  ad- 
hesive that  the  wheels  were  at.  times  literally  not  visible  in 
any  one  spot  from  the  box  to  the  tire,  and  the  poor  horses’ 
feet  sounded,  when  they  drew  them  out  (as  a fellow- 
traveller  observed),  like-  the  report  of  a pistol.  I am 
sorry  that  I was  not  sufficiently  acquainted  with  che- 
mistry or  mineralogy  to  analyze  that  wonderful  clay,  and 
slate  its  constituent  parts  ; but  if  I were  now  called  upon 
to  give  a receipt  for  a mess  most  nearly  resembling  it, 
I would  write,  “ Recipe — (nay,  I must  write  the  ingre- 
dients in  English,  for  fear  of  taxing  my  Latin  learning 
loo  severely) — 


Ordinary  clay 

1 lb. 

Do.  Pitch 

1 lb. 

Bird-lime 

. 6 oz. 

Putty  . 

. 

6 oz. 

Glue 

1 lb. 

Red  Lead,  or  colouring  matter 

6 oz. 

Fait  haustus — aegrot.  terq.  quaterq.  quatiend.” 


Whether  the  foregoing,  with  a proper  admixture  of 
hills,  holes,  stumps,  and  rocks,  made  a satisfactory 
draught  or  not,  I will  refer  to  the  unfortunate  team — T, 
alas  ! can  answer  for  the  effectual  application  of  the 
second  part  of  the  prescription,  according  to  the  Joe 
Miller  version  of  “ When  taken,  to  be  well  shaken  !” 

I arrived,  however,  without  accident  or  serious  bodily 
injury,  at  Fredericksburgh,  having  been  only  three  hours 
and  a half  in  getting  over  the  said  twelve  miles  ; and,  in 
justice  to  the  driver,  I must  say  that  I very  much  doubt 
whether  any  crack  London  whip  could  have  driven  those 
horses  over  that  ground  in  the  same  time : there  is  not 
a sound  that  can  emanate  from  human  lungs,  nor  an  ar- 
gument of  persuasion  that  can  touch  the  feelings  of  a 
horse,  that  he  did  not  employ,  with  a perseverance  and 
success  which  commanded  my  admiration. 


114 


FR.EDERICKSBUR.GiI 


Fredericksburgh  is  prettily  situated  on  the  banks  of  the 
Rappahannoc,  which  flows  nearly  round  it.  It  does  not 
seem  a very  busy  or  thriving  place,  although  the  dis- 
covery, which  has  lately  been  made,  of  gold  in  the 
neighbouring  mountains,  has  called  a mining  company 
into  existence,  and  may,  if  it  realizes  their  expectation, 
increase  the  importance  and  wealth  of  the  town  beyond 
calculation.  As  I was  not  able  to  visit  the  mines,  and 
am,  moreover,  no  mineralogist,  I am  unable  to  calculate 
the  probabilities  of  the  case  ; but  certainly,  many  of  the 
specimens  shown  to  me  by  the  Secretary  of  the  company 
indicated  a great  abundance  of  the  precious  metals. 

A wooden  bridge  is  thrown  across  the  river,  on  the 
opposite  bank  of  which  stands  Chatham,  the  house  of 
Judge  Coalter.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  an  eminence, 
Commanding  a view  of  the  town,  and  of  the  bold  sweep- 
ing course  of  the  Rappahannoc,  whose  wanderings  the  eye 
may  trace  up  to  Falmouth,  a pretty  village,  where  they 
are  made  to  lend  their  aid  to  some  extensive  flour-mills, 
established  by  Mr.  Gordon,  a Scottish  proprietor,  and 
one  of  the  richest  (as  I am  informed)  in  Virgina. 

The  first  glance  at  Mr.  Coalter’s  house  impressed  me 
with  the  idea  that  it  was  of  anti-revolutionary  date : the 
old  brown-coloured  bricks,  the  strait  green  walks  in  the 
terraced  garden,  and  the  formal  grenadier  row  of  stately 
poplars,  all  betokened  the  old  dominion.  The  family 
not  being  at  home,  I asked,  and  obtained,  permission  to 
view  the  river  and  valley  from  the  garden,  which  I enjoyed 
with  much  pleasure  for  some  time.  As  I was  on  the 
point  of  retiring  the  judge  returned,  and  politely  interrupt- 
ed my  apologies  for  intrusion  by  an  invitation  to  go  in 
and  take  a glass  of  Madeira.  Agreeably  to  this  hospita- 
ble arrangement,  I entered  a small  entrance-hall,  floored 
with  polished  pine  boards  j the  wainscotting  of  the  par- 
lour attracted  my  notice,  when  the  Judge  informed  me, 
that  the  house  was  of  that  date  which  I supposed,  and 
had  been  built  by  a Mr.  Fitzhugh,  well  known  at  the 
time. 

Judge  Coalter  is  a favourable,  but  not  unfrequent 
specimen  of  the  best  class  of  American  elderly  gentle- 
men i he  is  plain,  courteous,  and  hospitable  in  his  man- 


JUDGE  COALTER. 


115 


ner,  well-informed  on  agricultural  subjects,  and  with  a 
high  reputation  as  a lawyer.  Having  begun  with  that 
melancholy  cypher  0,  for  his  fortune,  he  has  the  merit 
of  having  raised  himself  by  his  ability,  industry,  and  in- 
tegrity, to  the  highest  rank  in  his  profession,  and  enjoys, 
in  his  retirement,  the  respect  and  esteem  of  all  his  neigh- 
bours. These  estimable  qualities  are  lodged  in  a form 
that  seemed  well  calculated  to  resist  the  attacks  of  time 
or  disease,  and  are  portrayed  in  a countenance  combin- 
ing, with  singular  force,  frankness,  energy,  and  shrewd- 
ness. I regretted  much  my  inability  to  avail  myself  of 
the  extended  hospitality  which  he  urgently  pressed  upon 
me. 

In  Fredericksburgh  I also  received  polite  attentions 
from  the  editor  of  a Whig  newspaper,  to  whom  I had  an 
introduction,  and  was  agreeably  surprised  by  finding  in 
him  a candid  and  liberal  tone  of  mind,  great  gentleness 
of  character,  and  a regard  to  religion  amounting  to  what 
would  be  called  in  England  “ evangelism.”  How  strange 
that  such  a term  should  be  used  in  a Christian  country 
to  convey  reproach  ! These  qualities  are,  with  a few 
honourable  exceptions,  very  rare  among  the  writers  in 
the  public  press  in  America. 

On  leaving  Fredericksburgh  for  Richmond,  by  the 
stage,  I wa3  warned  of  the  bad  state  of  the  roads ; 
but,  encouraged  by  what  I had  already  gone  through 
in  safety,  I smiled  at  such  perils  ; and  confiding  in  the 
stout  setting  of  my  bones,  resigned  myself  without  fear 
to  a vehicle,  in  which  I formed  tho  ninth  passenger,  and 
which  promised  to  reach  Richmond  in  twelve  hours,  the 
distance  being  about  sixty  or  seventy  miles.  As  we  be- 
gan the  journey  at  two  p.  m.,  we  hoped  to  conclude  it 
about  the  same  hour  in  the  morning. 

After  jolting  some  eight  miles  in  two  hours,  I began  to 
doubt  the  calculation  of  speed ; that  of  safety  was  placed 
agreeably  beyond  all  doubt,  by  meeting  the  stage  from 
Richmond,  containing  several  passengers  with  their 
heads  bandaged  with  blood-stained  napkins.  We  found, 
on  inquiry,  that  they  had  been  upset  only  once,  and  had 
received  these  cuts  and  contusions.  I congratulated  my- 


116 


DANGER  OF  BEING  UPSET. 


self  on  being  in  this  “ safety”  line,  as  the  opposition,  or 
mail-stage,  had  upset  twice  that  same  night,  thereby 
proving  that  our  chance  of  escape  with  life  and  unbroken 
limbs  was  two  to  one  greater  than  that  of  our  mail-com- 
petitors. 

It  is  needless  to  dwell  on  the  horrors  of  that  night : it 
was  found  impossible  to  drag  the  load  of  passengers  and 
luggage  through  the  mud  ; we  were  consequently  divid- 
ed into  two  stages  ; and  I heard  the  negro  who  drove  the 
last,  which  contained  my  valuable  person,  say,  as  he 
mounted  the  box  at  nightfall,  “ I hope  we  shan’t  ups#, 
as  I ha’nt  driv’  this  road  this  two  month.”  Under  his 
experimental  guidance  we  certainly  did  receive  such  a 
jolting  as  I had  never  supposed  a carriage  capable  of 
enduring ; and  the  courage  with  which  he  led  it  on  to 
charge  stumps  and  trees,  and  to  plunge  into  mud-holes, 
in  the  dark,  excited  my  admiration.  It  called  forth,  how- 
ever, other  feelings  from  one  of  my  companions,  who 
vented  his  alarm  and  anger  in  a variety  of  expressions, 
which  would  have  formed  a valuable  supplement  to  any 
dictionary  of  malediction  or  blasphemy.  We  arrived 
only  four  or  five  hours  after  the  time  appointed,  and  I 
felt  nearly  as  much  relieved  as  when  my  foot  first  touch- 
ed the  shore  of  Fayal.  The  description  here  given  of 
this  road  is  not  overdrawn.  I will  defy  pen,  pencil, 
or  malice  to  do  it ; and  it  must  be  remembered,  that  it 
is  the  great  high  road  (1835)  from  the  capital  of  Virginia 
to  the  seat  of  the  Federal  Government. 

Richmond  is  very  prettily  situated  on  the  James 
river  (or,  as  it  is  used  to  be  called,  the  Powhatan) ; the 
principal  streets  run  parallel  to  its  course  ; and  the  town 
is  built  on  ground  that  undulates  gently  in  some  places, 
and  rises  gradually  as  it  recedes  from  the  water,  till  the 
eye  rests  on  the  Capitol  and  other  public  buildings, 
which  crown  the  summit  of  the  centre  hill.  It  is  a busy 
flourishing  town,  containing  about  eighteen  thousand  in- 
habitants, of  which  the  white  and  black  population  are 
in  nearly  equal  proportions.  The  principal  exports  con- 
sists of  wheat  and  tobacco,  both  of  which  are  produced 
in  the  neighbourhood,  of  the  very  best  quality ; the  for 


JUDGE  MARSHALL. 


117 


rrier  is  sent  chiefly  to  the  islands  and  to  Rio  Janeiro; 
the  latter  all  over  the  world.  The  present  price  of 
wheat  is  about  a dollar  a bushel.* 

I had  read  so  much  extravagant  praise  of  the  beauty 
of  Richmond,  that  I was  somewhat  disappointed  ; never- 
theless the  view  of  the  city,  the  rapids,  interspersed  with 
thousands  of  Lilliputian  islands,  and  the  wooded  hills  in 
the  back-ground,  form  a very  pleasing  picture.  The 
society  numbers  among  its  members  some  of  the  most 
distinguished  men  in  the  Union  ; their  friendly  attention 
and  hospitality  to  me  warrant  my  assertion,  that  their 
private  and  social  qualities  are  by  no  means  inferior  to 
their  high  public  reputation.  The  names  of  Judge  Mar- 
shall, B.  W.  Leigh,  and  Mr.  Wickham,  are  familiar  to  all 
who  have  taken  any  interest  in  American  law  or  politics. 

Judge  Marsha],  who  is  Chief  Justice  of  the  Supreme 
Court,  and,  in  fact,  Lord  Chancellor  of  the  United 
States,  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  and  distinguished 
men  that  has  adorned  the  legislature  of  either  shore  of 
the  Atlantic.  He  began  life  as  a soldier ; and,  during 
the  American  war,  served  in  the  militia,  where  he  rose 
to  the  rank  of  general  : after  which  he  came  to  the  bar, 
and  passed  through  all  its  gradations  to  his  present  high 
situation,  which,  is,  in  my  opinion,  the  proudest  that  an 
American  can  enjoy,  not  excepting  that  of  president ; in- 
asmuch as  it  is  less  subject  “ arbitrio  popularis  aurae 
and  as  the  court  over  which  he  presides  can  affirm  and 
decide  what  is  and  what  is  not  the  constitution  of  the 
United  States.  The  judge  is  a tall  venerable  man,  about 
eighty  years  of  age,  his  hair  tied  in  a cue,  according  to 
olden  custom,  and  with  a countenance  indicating  that  sim- 
plicity of  mind  and  benignity  which  so  eminently  distin- 
guish his  character.  As  a judge  he  has  no  rival,  his 
knowledge  being  profound,  his  judgment  clear  and  just, 
and  his  quickness  in  apprehending  either  the  fallacy  or 
truth  of  an  argument  as  surprising.  T had  the  pleasure 
of  several  long  conversations  with  him,  and  was  struck 
with  admiration  at  the  extraordinary  union  of  modesty 

* Nearly  the  same  price  at  which  it  was  sold  by  our  heavily  taxed 
farmers  in  the  English  market  at  this  datg. 


118 


IIIS  HOUSE. 


and  power,  gentleness  and  force,  which  his  mind  dis- 
plays. What  he  knows  he  communicates  without  re- 
serve ; he  speaks  with  a clearness  of  expression,  and  in 
a tone  of  simple  truth,  which  compel  conviction ; and 
on  all  subjects  on  which  his  knowledge  is  not  certain , or 
which  admit  of  doubt  or  argument,  he  delivers  his  opin- 
ion with  a candid  diffidence,  and  with  a deference  for 
that  of  others,  amounting  almost  to  timidity  ; still,  it  is  a 
timidity  which  would  disarm  the  most  violent  opponent, 
and  win  respect  and  credence  from  any  auditor.  I re- 
member having  often  observed  a similar  characteristic 
attributed  to  the  immortal  Newton.  The  simplicity  of 
his  character  is  not  more  singular  than  that  of  his  life  ; 
pride,  ostentation,  and  hypocrisy  are  “ Greek  to  him  and 
he  really  lives  up  to  the  letter  and  spirit  of  republicanism, 
while  he  maintains  all  the  dignity  due  to  his  age  and 
office. 

His  house  is  small  and  more  humble  in  appearance  ( 
than  those  of  the  average  of  successful  lawyers  or  mer- 
chants. I called  three  times  upon  him  ; there  is  no  bell 
to  the  door  : once  I turned  the  handle  of  it,  and  walked 
in  unanounced  ; on  the  other  two  occasions  he  had  seen 
me  coming,  and  had  lifted  the  latch  and  received  me  at 
the  door,  although  he  was  at  the  time  suffering  from 
some  very  severe  contusions  received  in  the  stage  while 
travelling  on  that  road  from  Fredericksburg  to  Rich- 
mond, which  I have  before  described.  I verily  believe 
there  is  not  a particle  of  vanity  in  his  composition,  unless 
it  be  of  that  venial  and  hospitable  nature  which  induces 
him  to  pride  himself  on  giving  to  his  friends  the  best 
glass  of  Madeira  in  Virginia.  In  short,  blending,  as  he 
does,  the  simplicity  of  a child  and  the  plainness  of  a re- 
publican with  the  learning  and  ability  of  a lawyer,  the 
venerable  dignity  of  his  appearance  would  not  suffer  in 
comparison  with  that  of  the  most  respected  and  distin- 
guished-looking peer  in  the  British  House  of  Lords.* 

I spent  a week  very  pleasantly  in  Richmond.  At  the 
tables  of  the  three  gentlemen  before-mentioned,  I met 

* The  honoured  subject  of  the  foregoing  remark*  has  since  paid  the 
debt  of  nature ; but  I hare  left  them  as  they  were  originally  entered  in 
my  journal. 


THE  JAMES  RIVER. 


119 


most  agreeable  and  well-informed  society,  and  received 
attentions  more  marked  than  I either  expected  or  felt 
myself  entitled  to.  Although  the  gay  season  was  over, 
the  attractions  presented  by  several  of  the  ladies’  draw- 
ing-rooms were  such  as  to  make  me  regret  the  necessity 
for  a speedy  departure.  Indeed;  it  is  easy  to  observe  in 
Richmond  the  different  shades  of  character  between  the 
belles  of  Virginia  and  those  of  New  England  ; if  the 
latter  are  more  polished  and  well-informed,  the  former 
are  more  frank,  natural,  and  unrestrained,  and  the  smile 
which  lightens  from  the  face  of  the  one,  warms  and 
gladdens  from  that  of  the  other.  This  difference  would 
be  more  marked  than  it  is  were  it  not  for  the  wide  preva- 
lence among  parents  in  Virginia,  and  both  the  Carolinas, 
of  the  custom  of  sending  their  daughters  to  be  educated 
in  New  York  and  Boston,  where  they  can  have  better 
masters,  and  are  removed  from  the  febrile  danger  of  the 
Southern  summer. 

On  the  9th  of  April  I left  Richmond,  and  embarked 
on  the  James  river,  the  banks  of  which  received  the 
first  settlers  that  Britain  sent  across  the  Atlantic,  whose 
melancholy  fate  is  too  well  known  to  require  narration. 
The  morning  was  fine,  and  the  view  of  the  receding  city 
extremely  beautiful.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  gene- 
rally well  wooded  and  cultivated,  and  every  now  and  then 
is  seen  a country-house  more  resembling  those  in  Eng- 
land than  any  which  I had  hitherto  observed. 

I availed  myself  with  much  pleasure  of  the  hospitable 
offers  of  one  or  two  gentlemen,  whose  acquaintance  I 
had  made  in  Richmond,  of  paying  them  a visit.  I dis- 
embarked accordingly  about  sixty  miles  down  the  river, 
and  received  a kind  welcome  in  the  house  of  one  of  the 
oldest  families  in  the  state.  Here  I remained  four  or 
five  days  ; and  if  the  wishes  of  the  friendly  and  excel- 
lent host,  or  of  his  guest,  had  been  alone  to  be  consulted 
I might  have  remained  there  as  many  weeks,  so  agreea- 
ble was  the  domestic  circle  in  which  I found  myself, 
and  so  pressing  were  the  invitations  to  prolong  my  stay. 
In  Virginia  as  in  England,  a country-house  is  a very 
hothouse  of  acquaintance,  and  ripens  it  much  earlier 


120  INTERMARRIAGE  OP  RESIDENTS 

than  the  common  garden  of  society  ; and  the  hospitality 
of  Virginia  is  deservedly  celebrated. 

Proceeding  down  the  river  about  fifteen  miles,  I paid 
another  visit  to  two  gentlemen,  brothers,  who  were  con- 
nections of  my  former  host.  Indeed,  a great  many  of 
the  residents  on  the  James  river  are,  from  intermarriage 
and  division  of  old  estates,  mutually  connected  ; and  the 
cousinship  of  the  old  families  of  the  Birds,  Carters, 
Randolphs,  and  Harrisons,  are  almost  as  widely  extend- 
ed as  a similar  relation  in  the  highlands  of  Scotland. 
They  seem  upon  the  most  friendly  terms — are  constantly 
interchanging  visits,  without  ceremony  or  invitation  ; and 
their  hospitality  to  strangers  is  not  surpassed  in  any 
country  that  I have  seen.  Here,  too,  I saw  again  walls 
adorned  with  the  powdered  heads  and  laced  coats  of  our 
common  ancestors.  I sat  at  dinner  beneath  the  sweet 
smile  of  Pope’s  Miss  Blount,  from  the  pencil  of  Sir  G. 
Kneller ; while  Lord  Orrery,  Lord  Albermarle,  and  the 
Duke  of  Argyle,  frowned  from  canvass  of  respectable 
antiquity.  The  allusion  was  carried  yet  farther  by  the 
Anglicism  of  the  names  of  their  residences — such  as 
Shirley,  Brandon,  Berkeley,  &c. 

As  these  were  the  first  plantations,  or  farms,  which  J 
had  as  yet  seen  cultivated  on  a large  scale  by  slave- 
labour,  I naturally  paid  much  attention  to  the  appearance 
of  the  land  and  its  cultivators.  I shall  not  interrupt  this 
narrative  portion  of  my  journal  by  any  remarks  on  the 
general  question  of  slavery,  but  shall  confine  myself  to 
a simple  record  of  the  facts  which  came  under  my 
observation  during  this  excursion,  reserving  to  another 
occasion  the  discussion  of  a subject  which  is  confessedly 
the  most  important,  the  most  disagreeable,  and  the  most 
difficult  that  can  engage  the  attention  either  of  the  poli- 
tician or  the  moralist  in  the  United  Slates. 

From  what  I had  already  seen  of  the  social  qualities 
of  the  gentlemen  at  whose  houses  I was  a visiter,  I was 
rather  gratified  than  surprised  to  witness  the  comparative 
comfort  and  good  usage  enjoyed  by  their  slaves.  The 
huts  in  which  they  reside  are  constructed  of  wood,  and 
divided  in  the  centre  by  a compartment,  in  which  is 
fixed  a chimney,  to  convey  the  smoke  from  each  divi- 


treatment  of  SLAVES. 


121 


siori  ; their  food  (consisting  chiefly  of  fish,  broth,  maize 
cooked  after  various  fashions,  bacon,  &c.)  is  wholesome 
and  sufficient:  their  clothing,  coarse,  but  suited  to  their 
necessities  and  to  the  climate  : their  labour  compulsory 
and  constant,  but  not  beyond  their  power.  During  the 
days  that  I spent  in  the  neighbourhood,  I did  not  see 
any  corporal  punishment;  but  each  overseer  was  armed 
with  a.  cowhide  ; and  one,  with  whom  I held  a long 
conversation  regarding  the  detail  of  his  occupation,  in- 
formed me,  that  he  was  obliged  constantly  to  use  the 
lash,  both  to  the  men  and  women  : that  some  he  whip- 
ped four  or  five  times  a-week,  some  only  twice  or  thrice 
a-month  : that  all  attempts  to  make  them  work  regularly 
by  advice  or  kindness  were  unavailing,  for  their  general 
character  was  stubborn  idleness  ; and  that  many  who 
were  cheerful,  and  even  appeared  attached  to  the  family, 
would  not  work  without  occasional  hints  from  the 
cowhide.  He  owned  he  was  extremely  sorry  that  the 
race  existed  in  Virginia,  destroying  as  they  must  the 
market  for  the  white  man’s  labour ; adding  his  conviction 
•that  his  employer’s  estate  would  produce  more  clear 
revenue  if  every  negro  were  removed  from  the  state, 
and  the  property  divided  into  farms  under  lease.  The 
grounds  for  this  opinion,  were  the  heavy  original  outlay 
in  the  purchase  of  slaves  (the  price  of  an  able-bodied 
male  being,  at  an  average,  150/.), — the  expense  of  their 
maintenance — the  perpetual  losses  incurred  by  their  dy- 
ing, running  away,  falling  sick,  and  other  casualties,  the 
weight  of  which  in  free  countries  falls  upon  the  labourer. 

It  is  doubtless  true  that  all  these  causes,  taken 
together,  render  slave-labour  less  cheap  and  profitable  to 
the  proprietor  than  it  is  sometimes  assumed  to  be  ; but 
there  is  also  a fact  usually  advanced  by  the  slave-holders 
in  this  district  which  must  not  be  passed  over,  and  the 
truth  of  which  cannot  be  altogether  denied,  namely,  that 
the  banks  of  the  James  river  are  extremely  unhealthy 
during  the  harvest  and  hot  months,  and  it  is  very  doubtful 
whether  white  labourers  (who  suffer  much  more  severely 
than  negroes  from  bilious  and  other  local  fevers)  could 
perform  the  work  requisite  during  the  summer;  so  that 
the  choice  must  lie  between  slavery  and  free-black  labour, 

Vol.  I. — L 


122 


THE  NEGRO  CHARACTER. 


of  which  last  the  Virginians  speak  as  an  impracticable 
theory.  That,  however,  remains  to  be  proved  ; and  as 
the  experiment  has  been  made  elsewhere  upon  a great 
scale,  it  is  surely  more  philosophical  lo  wait  and  observe, 
rather  than  conjecture  or  anticipate  the  result.  The 
general  experience  of  the  past  seems  to  warrant  the 
assertion,  that  the  motives  of  cleanliness,  comfort,  and 
independence  are  seldom,  if  ever,  strong  enough  to  pre- 
vail upon  the  negro  to  labour  ; and  that  no  inducements 
sufficiently  strong  can  be  found,  excepting  necessity  and 
compulsion. 

It  is  to  be  feared  that  such  will  continue  to  be  their 
character,  until  it  shall  have  been  changed  by  education 
and  by  gradual  improvement  in  their  mental  and  moral 
condition  ; indeed,  the  contrariety  of  slavery  to  the  laws 
of  nature  can  scarcely  receive  stronger  confirmation  than 
it  does  from  the  fact,  that  it  is  necessarily  associated 
with,  and  dependent  for  its  existence  upon,  the  grossest 
ignorance  and  degradation  of  mind.  All  civilized  na- 
tions agree  in  the  great  maxims,  that  knowledge  is  the 
power  of  man — liberty  his  unalienable  right — improve- 
ment his  object ; and  yet  here  is  a condition  utterly  in- 
compatible with  the  first  dawnings  of  knowledge — the 
first  principles  of  liberty — the  first  step  in  the  march  of 
improvement ! 

The  abject  submission  and  ignorance  necessary  to  the 
continuance  of  slavery  may  be  easily  gathered  from  the 
following  statement: — The  farms  of  two  gentlemen 
•whom  l visited  occupied  the  whole  of  a peninsula  formed 
by  the  James  river : they  had  each  two  overseers  : thus 
(their  families  being  young)  the  effective  strength  of 
white  men  on  their  estates  amounted  to  six:  the  negroes 
were  in  number  about  two  hundred  and  fifty  : nor  was 
there  a village  or  place  within  many  miles  from  which 
assistance  could  be  summoned.  Let  the  reader  only 
imagine  the  scene  that  must  have  ensued,  had  some  of 
these  blacks,  while  smarting  under  the  pain  of  the  lash, 
been  taught  the  first  crude  notions  of  natural  right,  or 
been  awakened  to  the  first  consciousness  of  their  power, 
or  been  excited  to  one  feeling  of  indignation  or  revenge 
strong  enough  to  overcome  the  habitual  terror  of  the 


OVERSEERS. 


123 


cowhide  ! Hence  it  is  not  difficult  to  understand  how 
justly  the  slaveholders  urge  the  necessity  of  keeping 
from  their  slaves  all  glimpses  of  knowledge  or  liberty 
upon  the  ground  of  self-preservation  ; and  thus  the  best 
apology  for  slavery  furnishes  the  best  evidence  of  its 
inhuman  unholy  nature. 

But  to  return  to  the  plantations  on  James  river.  There 
is  a wide  difference  between  the  respective  conditions  of 
the  domestic  and  the  farm-labouring  slave;  the  former 
has,  in  many  instances,  been  brought  up  under  the  same 
roof  with  his  owner — perhaps  they  have  been  playmates 
in  early  boyhood ; he  has  rarely,  if  ever,  felt  the  lash  ; 
and  his  respectability  of  demeanour  and  attachment  to 
the  family  are  characteristics  which  it  is  easy  and  plea- 
sant to  observe  ; his  punishment  when  idle  is  generally 
confined  to  a scolding,  and,  if  that  fails,  a threat  to  sell 
him  will  almost  always  reduce  the  most  obstinate  to  obe- 
dience. But  the  farm-labouring  slave  is  little  brought 
into  contact  with  his  master,  whose  habitual  feelings  of 
humanity  are,  therefore,  seldom  excited  in  his  favour: 
he  is  one  of  a gang  from  which,  as  from  a team  of 
horses,  a certain  quantum  of  labour  is  expected ; he  is 
entirely  at  the  mercy  of  the  overseer  ; and  the  merit  of 
that  functionary  in  the  eyes  of  his  employer  being  to 
extract  the  maximum  of  profit  from  the  exertions  of  the 
slaves,  he  is  apt  to  spare  neither  threats  nor  blowrs  in  the 
discharge  of  his  office,  and  an  appeal  against  him  to  the 
master  is  worse  than  hopeless,  as  the  negro  evidence  is 
unheeded.  The  complainant,  therefore,  is  well  aware 
that,  by  accusing  his  oppressor,  he  would  only  draw 
upon  himself  redoubled  severity  or  cruelty.  These  over- 
seers are  generally  men  of  harsh  and  unfeeling  characr 
ter,  which  every  day  spent  in  their  disagreeable  vocation 
must  have  a natural  tendency  to  harden ; but  1 have 
never  heard  in  the  south-eastern  states  of  their  being 
guilty  of  the  licentious  atrocities  of  which  they  have 
been  sometimes  accused  in  Louisiana,  and  which  cer- 
tainly are  but  too  common  among  them  in  the  West  In- 
dia islands. 

The  marriage  of  the  slave  is,  of  course,  entirely  at  the 
option  of  the  owner,  by  whom  it  is  generally  encouraged. 


124 


AGRICULTURE. 


If  the  wife  belong  to  a gang  on  an  adjoining  property, 
the  husband  is  usually  allowed  to  visit  her  from  Satur- 
day  night  until  Monday  morning,  and  sometimes  once 
again  in  the  week  from  sunset  until  the  following  day- 
break : the  children  resulting  from  the  marriage  belong 
to  the  owner  of  the  mother.  The  sexual  morality  of  the 
negroes  (being  unchecked  by  any  notions  of  decency  or 
propriety)  would  be  even  more  lax  than  it  is,  were  it  not 
restrained  by  prohibitory  regulations  on  the  part  of  their 
owners,  whose  interest  it  is  to  prevent  all  irregularities 
which  might  interfere  with  the  labour  of  the  male,  or  the 
fecundity  of  the  female  slaves  : let  us  hope,  also,  that 
some  impose  these  restraints  from  better  and  higher 
motives. 

The  religion  of  the  negroes  is  such  as  might  be  ex- 
pected from  the  brutal  state  of  ignorance  in  which  they 
are  brought  up;  the  dignity,  the  responsibility,  the  im- 
mortality of  man  being  unknown  to  them,  their  religion 
is  a compound  of  super>tiiion  and  absurdity,  inculcating 
no  virtue,  dutv,  or  self-denial,  and  filling  their  heads  with 
drivelling  fruitless  fancies  ; they  always  prefer  their  own 
preachers  (some  brother-slave,  whose  vanity  and  volu- 
bility have  induced  him  to  assume  the  office)  to  any 
white  minister  that  can  be  offered  to  them  ; and  the  only 
definite  article  of  belief  that  I could  obtain  from  several 
whom  T examined,  was,  that  if  adultery,  theft,  and  mur- 
der were  very  bad,  a few  prayers  soon  expiated  the  of- 
fence, and  the  “ man  might  start  again  as  good  as  ever  !” 

The  soil  on  both  banks  of  James  river  is  naturally 
yery  fertile  ; but  it.  has  been  much  exhausted  by  neglect 
and  by  over-cropping.  A better  system  of  agriculture  is 
now  introduced  ; a triennial  rotation  is  observed,  consist- 
ing usually  of  wheat,  Indian  corn,  and  clover;  fine  beds 
of  marie  have  lately  been  discovered  of  great  extent,  and 
the  use  of  this,  with  shells  and  a free  admixture  of  ani- 
mal and  vegetable  manure,  is  already  producing  evident 
and  rapid  improvement  in  the  soil  and  in  the  crops. 
Most  of  the  implements  of  husbandry  are  made  on  the 
farm  ; the  draught  cattle  consist  chiefly  of  small,  lean, 
but  hardy  oxen,  and  stout  mules,  which  are  fed  upon  the 
coarsest  refuse  of  the  produce  : thus  (with  the  exception 


EARLY  SETTLERS. 


125 


of  the  value  of  the  slave-labour)  the  outlay  upon  these 
farms  is  not  bv  any  means  heavy  in  proportion  to  their 
return  ; and  were  it  not  for  the  subdivision  to  which,  by 
the  laws  of  the  country,  they  are  so  frequently  subjected, 
these  estates  would  maintain  a comfortable  and  indepen- 
dent gentry. 

I suppose  my  American  friends  would  call  it  British 
prejudice  ; but  l confess  it  often  made  me  sad,  in  my 
journey  through  Virginia,  to  see  good  substantial  manor- 
houses,  built  while  the  law  of  primogeniture  was  in  force, 
either  untenanted  or  half  inhabited,  because  none  of  the 
heirs  of  the  sub-divided  property  could  afford  to  live  in 
them.  However,  although  I will  not  enter  farther  into 
the  merits  of  that  question  here,  I freely  admit  that  I 
consider  a law  of  primogeniture  incompatible  with  re- 
publican institutions. 

On  the  19th  of  April,  I bade  adieu  to  mv  kind  hosts, 
and  embarked  again  on  James  river  for  Williamsburgh, 
the  former  colonial  seat  of  government.  The  steamer 
in  which  I found  myself  was  the  “Patrick  Henry!” 
The  name  of  the  extraordinary  man,  after  whom  it  was 
so  called,  is  familiar  to  all  who  are  in  any  degree  conver- 
sant with  the  history  of  the  American  revolution.  How 
little  could  he  imagine,  when  he  was  stirring  up  the  Vir- 
ginians to  revolt,  and  fulminating  his  eloquent  denuncia- 
tions against  their  governor,  who  had  proclaimed  him 
outlaw  and  traitor,  that  in  fifty  years  his  own  country 
would  be  a mighty  independent  empire,  and  the  grand- 
son of  i hat  governor  be  received  there  as  a traveller  with 
kindness  and  hospitality. 

The  district  through  which  I was  now  passing  was  the 
Wingandacoa,  mentioned  as  the  first  region  visited  by 
Sir  W.  Raleigh  on  this  coast : it  is  described  by  Philip 
Amydas,  narrator  of  that  expedition,  as  a “ soile  most 
plentiful,  sweete,  and  wholesome  of  all  other;”  in  proof 
of  which  the  worthy  capiain  states,  “ the  corne  groweth 
three  times  in  five  moneth  ; we  put  some  of  our  pease 
in  the  grounde,  which  in  ten  dayes  were  fourteen  inches 
high  !”  I entreat  the  reader  to  take  this  statement  upon 
the  faith  of  Philip  Amydas’  veracity,  and  not  of  mine. 

It  appears  that,  in  1585,  Wingandacoa  received  the 


JAMES  TOWN. 


126 

name  of  Virginia,  and  a second  expedition  was  sent 
thither  under  Sir  Richard  Grenvill,  Master  Heriot, 
Eayne,  and  others.  Their  first  negotiations  with  the 
Indians  seem  to  have  been  carried  on  in  that  spirit  of 
intolerance  and  cruelty  which  has  marked  and  disgraced 
the  conduct  of  English,  Spanish,  and  of  all  the  civilized 
nations,  in  their  intercourse  with  ignorant  and  helpless 
savages.  Master  Heriot’s  narrative  abounds  with  illus- 
trations of  this  observation  ; let  one  short  sentence  suf- 
fice : very  soon  after  their  landing,  he  says,  “at  Aquas- 
cogac,  the  Indians  stole  a silver  cup,  so  we  burnt  their 
towne,  and  spoyled  their  corne,”  &c.  When  civilization 
and  Christianity  came  to  the  poor  Indians,  recommended 
by  such  acts  of  wanton  atrocity  as  are  recorded  in  the 
narratives  written  by  the  first  European  settlers  them- 
selves, who  can  wonder  that  they  should  become  objects 
of  fear  and  haired,  rather  than  of  admiration  and  love  ! 

The  speed  of  the  Patrick  Henry  exceeded  that  of  any 
steamer  which  I had  seen  in  England  or  in  America.  She 
went  over  seventy-six  miles  (with  wind  and  tide  in  her 
favour)  in  four  hours  and  twenty  minutes  precisely,  in- 
cluding several  short  stoppages  to  land  and  take  in  pas- 
sengers. 1 landed  at  James  Town,  the  now  desolate 
spot,  where  the  fathers  of  America  first  established  them- 
selves on  her  shores  : it  is  impossible  to  view  it  without 
interest  and  emotion,  or  to  forget  that  from  this  acorn 
sprung  the  huge-spreading  oak  on  which  the  American 
eagle  has  built  her  nest ! 

“ Time  was  when,  settling  on  thy  leaf,  a fly 

Could  shake  thee  to  the  roots — and  time  has  been 
When  tempests  could  not.”* 

Nothing  now  remains  of  that  parent  settlement  except- 
ing the  ruins  of  the  church,  which  mark  the  place  whence 
the  lidings  of  Christianity  were  first  preached  in  the 
Western  world.  Here  I regret  to  add,  that  the  condi- 
tion both  of  the  ruins  and  of  the  church-yard  attest  the 
indifference  of  the  American  people  to  sepulchral  relics 
or  monuments  of  antiquity.  Instead  of  showing  any 
reverence  for  this  classic  and  holy  ground  (such,  at  least, 
it  should  be  to  them),  the  church  has  been  allowed  to  fall 


Cowper’s  “Yardjey  Oak.” 


DESECRATED  CHURCH-YARD. 


127 


to  pieces — the  grave-stones  have  been  rudely  torn  from 
their  places — the  marble  slabs  broken  and  scatiered  in 
every  direction — the  inscriptions  and  carved  ornaments 
defaced — the  church-yard  wall  torn  down — nor  is  there 
the  slightest  remaining  barrier  to  protect  this,  their  ear- 
liest religious  and  ancestral  monument,  from  the  intru- 
sion of  pigs  and  cattle,  or  the  more  disgraceful  profana- 
tion of  human  mischief  and  curiosity! 

Some  mav  think  this  a light  and  trivial  matter — I can- 
not agree  with  them  : it  appears  tome  an  amiable,  if  not 
an  instinctive  feeling  in  our  nature,  to  have  a regard  to 
all  the  concerns,  the  habits,  the  deeds,  as  well  as  the 
houses  and  more  material  relics  of  our  forefathers  ; how 
much  more  so  to  venerate  the  spot  of  which  the  dust  is 
kindred  to  our  own  animated  clay,  where  sleep  the  men 
to  whom  we  owe  the  land  and  the  liberty  we  enjoy.  I 
will  defy  any  one  who  pretends  to  understand  or  appre- 
ciate a stanza  of  Gray’s  matchless  Elegy,  to  look  upon 
this  desecrated  church-yard  without  mingled  feelings  of 
indignation  and  pain.  If  T were  an  American  statesman 
I would  watch,  and  endeavour  to  correct  this  national 
defect,  and  to  instil  into  my  couniryrnen  a sentiment 
which  the  concurring  testimony  of  civilized  nations  has 
approved.  Burke,  who  was  no  superficial  observer  of 
human  nature,  has  said,  “They  who  never  look  back  to 
their  ancestors,  will  rarely  look  forward  to  posterity.” 

The  road  from  James  Town  to  Williamsburgh  is 
through  a tame  ill-cultivated  countrv,  without  much  pre- 
tention to  beauty.  The  seat  of  government  during  the 
Old  Dominion  is  now  little  better  than  a “ deserted  vil- 
lage.” The  centre  of  the  palace  where  the  governor 
resided  has  long  since  fallen  down,  and  even  the  traces 
of  its  ruins  are  no  more  to  be  seen.  Two  small  wings, 
which  formed  part  of  the  range  of  offices,  are  still  stand- 
ing: they  have  been  bought  and  fitted  up  by  Mr.  B , 

their  present  possessor,  in  a neat  cottage  style.  I did 
not  scruple  to  enter,  and  ask  permission  to  cast  my  eye 
round  the  apartments  and  adjoining  garden,  which  was 
politely  granted.  It  maybe  imagined  with  what  min- 
gled and  undefinable  feelings  I viewed  this  spot,  as  a 
stranger  and  a foreigner,  where  my  grandfather  had  liv- 


128 


OLD  COLLEGE. 


ed,  surrounded  by  the  pomp  and  pageantry  of  vice-royal- 
ty ! — then  all  was  bustle  and  gayely,  and  life  wilbin  those 
halls — when  the  governor  welcomed  the  colonists  to  the 
board  and  to  the  dance,  or  sallied  forth  with  British  sol- 
diery, supported  by  the  bold  woodsmen  of  the  country, 
to  drive  the  red  invaders  fiom  the  remote  portions  of  Vir- 
ginia, which  are  now  included  in  the  states  of  Ohio  and 
Tennessee  !*  What  is  now  the  contrasted  scene  ? — 
those  wildernesses,  watered  by  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi, 
which  were  then  the  abode  of  the  wolf,  the  bear,  and 
the  Indian,  are  filled  with  thriving  farms  and  busy  vil- 
lages, amidst  which  are  to  be  found  towns  of  great  and 
increasing  opulence  ; while  the  ancient  capital,  on  the 
site  of  which  I was  now  standing,  has  dwindled,  in  half 
a century,  into  a paltry  village,  without  even  a venerable 
ruin  to  rescue  its  decay  from  insignificance  ! 

The  train  of  refleciions  naturally  arising  from  the  con- 
templation of  this  scene  probably  prevented  my  paying 
due  attention  to  the  college  situated  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  it,  built  and  endowed  (as  is  well  known)  by  Wil- 
liam and  Mary.  I did  visit  it,  however,  and  found  a 
large  irregular  pile  of  building,  without  any  architec- 
tural pretentions.  I also  paid  my  respects  to  Mr.  T , 

one  of  the  principal  professors  : his  deportment  and  con- 
versation answered  the  general  expectation  which  I had 
formed  from  the  general  high  character  that  he  enjoys 
throughout  the  state.  His  general  views  of  education 
and  college  discipline  appeared  to  me  liberal  and  enlight- 
ened. He  introduced  me  to  two  other  professors  be- 
longing to  the  establishment ; and  my  impression  from 
the  interview  was,  that,  under  such  men,  the  college, 
which  had  for  many  years  subsequently  to  the  revolu- 
tion, and  the  consequent  diminution  of  its  funds,  been  on 
the  decline,  would  soon  regain  its  former  celebrity. 

* In  the  time  of  James  the  First,  and  for  many  years  after  his  reign, 
the  colony  of  Virginia  was  held  to  contain  all  the  country  between  lati- 
tudes 32°  and  44°,  “ and  as  far  westward  as  might  be  convenient.”  I 
saw  some  very  curious  records  connected  with  this  subject  in  the  archives, 
which  are  reserved  in  good  order  at  Richmond.  The  present  northern 
and  southern  limits  of  Virginia,  were  assigned  in  1630-1632,  when  the 
boundaries  of  North  Carolina  and  Maryland  were  drawn. 


NEW  FORTIFICATION.  129 

% 

On  the  29th  of  April  I left  Williamsburgh,  and  pro- 
ceeded, through  an  uninteresting  country,  to  Hampton. 
From  thence,  I took  a stroll  towards  the  new  fortifica- 
tion at  Old  Point,  which  has  been  constructed  with  much 
care  and  at  great  expense.  The  works  are  of  considera- 
ble extent,  and  many  difficulties  must  have  presented 
themselves  in  the  progress  of  the  fortification,  especially 
from  the  instability  of  the  foundation,  the  whole  being 
built  upon  sand.  1 should  conceive  it  altogether  a strong 
fortress,  as  regular  approaches  could  only  be  made  on 
one  side,  and  that  is  a narrow  isthmus,  not  easily  occu- 
pied by  an  enemy.  Its  dimensions  are  quite  out  of  pro- 
portion with  the  military  force  at  present  existing  in  the 
country.  I should  have  conceived  that  the  whole  United 
States’  army  would  not  make  more  than  a sufficient  gar- 
rison for  it  (as  it  certainly  would  easily  contain  eight 
thousand  men,  which  is  above  two  thousand  more  than 
their  present  numerical  force);  but  I am  told  the  tech- 
nical calculations  respecting  the  fortification  (of  which 
I am  myself  very  ignorant)  are,  that  it  can  be  de- 
fended by  three  thousand  men,  and  is  calculated  to  hold 
out  against  regular  approaches  for  forty  days.  The 
guns  that  I saw  were  all  twenty-four  and  thirty-two 
pounders  ; but  forty-twos  are  to  be  mounted  upon  a new 
and  improved  principle  in  the  construction  of  the  car- 
riages. I have  been  informed  that  it  was  meant  to  form 
a kind  of  depot,  or  centre,  of  a great  line  of  coast  fortifi- 
cation, extending  all  along  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic  : 
the  intention  of  which  was  to  protect  the  whole  impor- 
tant line  between  the  Hudson  and  the  James  river. 

Crossing  from  Old  Point  to  Norfolk,  in  the  steamer,  I 
arrived  late  in  the  afternoon.  This  is  a bustling,  active 
town,  containing,  probably,  about  eleven  thousand  inhabi- 
tants. The  streets  are  narrow,  and  the  houses  rather 
small ; and,  though  the  shops  are  well  filled,  and  the 
streets  are  lined  with  hampers,  barrels,  crates,  and  all  the 
usual  pavement  impediments  of  a commercial  pori,  still 
there  is  little  to  interest  a stranger ; but  the  bay  affords 
a noble  harbour,  and  the  merchants  of  Norfolk  have  been 
long  and  justly  celebrated  for  their  hospitality.  As  for 
the  great  bay  of  the  Chesapeake,  in  which  this  seaport 


130 


MORNING  RIDE. 


is  situated,  it  is  certainly  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world, 
whether  considered  in  reference  to  its  commercial  or  na- 
val importance,  being  on  an  average,  twelve  or  fifteen 
miles  wide,  two  hundred  and  seventy  miles  long,  and 
eight  or  ten  fathoms  deep  throughout ; it  contains  many 
commodious  harbours  and  excellent  fisheries.  Besides 
the  James  river,  of  which  I have  before  spoken,  it  re- 
ceives the  waters  of  several  navigable  rivers,  the  prin- 
cipal of  which  are  the  Susquehannah,  Potomac,  Patuxent, 
Rappahannock,  and  York. 

During  my  stay  J was  hospitably  entertained  by  the 
British  Consul,  and  made  some  agreeable  acquaintance. 
After  a few  days  I returned  to  Washington. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Morning  Ride. — Delightful  Season. — Shrubs  and  Flowers. — The  Mock- 
ing-bird.— Visit  to  a Flower-Garden. — Preparations  for  a Tour  in  the 
West — Parting  from  Friends. — Leave  Washington  for  Baltimore. — 
Fearful  Ravages  of  the  Cholera. — Incident  in  the  Museum  at  Balti- 
more.— Arrival  at  Philadelphia. — Start  for  Pittsburgh. — Lovely  Pros- 
pect.--Lancaster  Vale. — German  Settlers. — The  Susquehannah. — 
The  Juniata. — Track  Boats. — A Newspaper  Reporter. — Inquisitive 
Western  Traveller. — Walk  to  Holydaysburgh. — Nocturnal  Annoy* 
ance. — Passage  across  the  Alleghanies. — Arrival  at  Johnstown. — 
The  River  Conimah. — Railroad. — The  Alleghany  River. — Pitts- 
burgh.— The  Market. — Mr.  Rapp’s  Settlement. 

On  the  morning  of  the  5th  of  May,  I sallied  forth 
about  seven  o’clock,  to  ride  round  the  heights  of  George- 
town, and  the  picturesque  glens  by  which  they  are 
divided  from  the  Washington  race-course.  All  who 
have  seen  the  various  tints  which  clothe  the  American 
woods  in  autumn,  (or,  to  use  their  own  poetical  and 
admirable  expression,  in  the  full,)  have  agreed  in  cele- 
brating their  unrivalled  richness  and  beauty.  I will  not 
institute  an  odious  comparison  between  that  time  of  year 
and  the  “soote  season”  in  which  I now  pricked  forth: 
both  are  sweet,  and  both  have  their  peculiar  attractions. 

After  all,  the  last  scene  is  always  the  best.  Nature 
is  like  Perdita  in  “ The  Winter’s  Tale,” — “what  she 
does,  still  betters  what  is  done but  X never  remember 


DELIGHTFUL  SEASON”. 


131 

to  have  enjoyed  a more  delightful  ride  (at  least,  alone) : 
the  sun  was  clear,  bright,  and  gay  in  his  bridegroom  trim 
— the  sweet  south  shook  the  dew-drops  from  the  bud- 
ding trees ; 

“ The  flowers  sprang  wanton  to  be  prest ; 

The  birds  sang  love  on  every  spray 

and  all  nature  wore  that  universal  smile  which  the  un- 
translatable expression  of  JEschylus  so  exquisitely  paints 
in  describing  the  sea.* 

The  season,  indeed,  was  later  than  usual,  and  on  this 
lovely  morning,  the  blooming  May  was  busied  in  calling 
that  “ sleeping  fragrance  from  the  ground”  which  her 
ekPr  sister  April  ought  to  have  awakened  ; the 

“ Violets  dim, 

But  sweeter  than  the  lids  of  Juno’s  eyes, 

Or  Cytherea’s  breath,” 

were  peeping  from  every  tangled  corner  in  the  dell ; 
buds  and  blossoms  of  various  shrubs  and  trees,  whose 
names  were  unknown  to  me,  were  bursting  open  in 
every  direction  the  verdant  walls  of  their  native  prison, 
and  endeavouring,  “ all  bashfully,  to  struggle  into  light 
while  the  graver  pines  and  cedars  seemed  to  mock  their 
tender  and  unformed  foliage.  Proudly  eminent  among 
them  all  was  the  luxurious  and  gaudy  beauty  of  the  Cor- 
nus  jlorida\  (called  here  the  dog-wood);  this  is  a large 
shrub,  bearing  delicate  flowers  of  a paly  pink  hue,  and 
such  a profusion  of  them  as  to  make  the  wild  woods 
look  like  a flower-garden,  and  to  throw  into  shades  the 
beauties  even  of  the  May-thorn. 

Nor  was  animate  nature  less  busily  employed  : the 
saucy  robin  was  pluming  himself  by  the  stream,  and 
regarded  not  my  approach  ; the  gorgeous  blue-bird  was 
showing  to  the  sun  his  “ feathered  mail,  sky-tinctured, 
grain  the  cat-bird  and  thrush  were  singing  their  matins 

* The  d vr/ptOfiov  ytkac[ia.  Vide  Prom.  1.  90. 

t I believe,  in  autumn,  it  bears  bright  scarlet  berries  : its  bark  is  a 
powerful  tonic,  and  is  taken  as  a remedy  for  ague. 


132 


THE  MOCKING  BIRD. 


from  every  bush  and  tree ; and,  far  above  the  rest,  that 
prince  of  mimics  and  songsters,  the  mocking-bird,  was 
swinging  upon  a small  tw'ig  of  the  hickory-nut,  which 
waved  gently  to  and  fro  in  the  breeze  ; while  he,  “as  if 
he  would  the  charming  air  repay,”  poured  forth  a strain 
of  such  rich  and  varied  melody,  as  made  me,  for  the 
moment,  almost  forget  my  allegiance  to  that  feathered 
queen  of  song,  who,  throned  in  some  venerable  oak  in 
Windsor’s  glades,  has  received  so  often  the  grateful 
homage  of  my  ear,  and  charmed  so  many  hours,  by  day 
and  night,  of  my  earlier  years  ! 

Thus  lovely  was  the  scene  through  which  I suffered 
my  steed  to  ramble  at  his  own  pace,  unwilling  1 hat  he 
should  not  have  his  share  in  the  enjoyment  diffused 
around  him  ; my  own  musings  were  tinged,  however- 
with  melancholy,  as  the  last  post  from  Europe  had 
brought  alarming  accounts  of  the  health  of  one  who  was 
and  is  to  me  as  a sister — one  who,  when  I left  her"  was 
blithe  and  lovely  as  the  landscape  before  me.  There 
was  something,  moreover,  .in  the  object  with  which  I 
visited  thus  early  these  woody  dells,  which  was  calcu- 
lated to  inspire  gentle  thoughts;  for  my  course  was 
directed  to  a flower-garden,  where  I was  going  to  select 
a small  bouquette  for  a young  lady,  to  whom  T had,  the 
preceding  evening,  lost  a “flowery  wager;”  and  as  her 
attractions  rendered  her  well  worthy  of  the  fairest  and 
most  fragrant  selection  which  I could  make,  I was,  per- 
haps, unconsciously  illustrating  those  lines  of  our  “old 
man  eloquent,”  in  which  one, 

“ Forth  issuing  on  a summer’s  morn,  to  breathe 
Among  the  pleasant  villages  and  farms 
Adjoined,  fronp  each  thing  met  conceives  delight 

but  when  the  “ fair  virgin”  is  added  to  the  picture, 

“ What  pleasing  seem’d,  for  her  now  pleases  more.” 

T returned  home,  laden  with  sweets  like  a bee,  only 
with  this  difference,  that  the  bee  is  a thief,  and  I came 
honestly  by  mine.  I heie  feel  obliged  to  acknowledge, 
that,  although  Washington  is  a dismal  and  dreary  skele- 


LEAVE  WASHINGTON. 


13S 


ton  of  a city,  possessing  a climate  and  situation  equally 
detestable,  there  are  some  delightful  rides  in  its  neigh- 
bourhood. 

After  spending  a few  days  more  in  the  ‘capital,  I 
determined  upon  making  a tour  in  the  West,  leaving  its 
extent  and  direction  to  be  guided  by  circumstances,  and 
by  such  information  or  advice  as  I might  meet  with  on 
the  way.  Accoidingly,  I armed  myself  with  letters  of 
introduction  to  the  officers  on  the  western  stations  from 
the  secretary  of  the  War  Department  and  from  the  com- 
mander-in-chief, to  both  of  whom  I was  much  indebted 
for  the  readiness  with  which  they  gave  them,  and  the 
pressing  language  in  which  they  were  couched. 

I could  not  leave  the  friendly  roof  under  which  I had 
passed  so  many  pleasant  weeks  without  sincere  regret, 
especially  as  I was  not  sure  whether  its  highly  esteemed 
inhabitant  might  not  return  to  Europe  during  my  absence  ; 
neither  did  “ my  bosom’s  lord  sit  lightly  on  his  throne,” 
on  quitting  others  whose  acquaintance  and  intimacy  I 
had  enjoyed.  Although  the  society  of  three  or  four  of 
the  translantic  cities  might  be  gayer,  there  were  some  at 
Washington  with  whom  1 felt  more  at  home , and  conse- 
quently more  loth  lo  quit,  than  I should  be  to  leave  the 
gayeties  even  of  Paiis  or  Naples  ! Nevertheless,  on 
Monday,  the  19th  of  May,  I went  to  Baltimore.  The 
day  was  fine,  the  company  in  the  stage  well-informed 
and  pleasing  members  of  the  best  society  ; so  that  the 
blue  devils  made  a hurried  retreat.  I had  for  a fellow- 
passenger  General  Eustace,  a highly  esteemed  officer, 
and  he  gave  me  the  following  account  of  the  fearfully 
rapid  attack  which  the  cholera  had  made  upon  some 
troops  under  his  command  in  lb32.  He  was  on  board 
a steam-boat  on  Lake  Michigan,  bound  for  Chicago,  on 
the  9th  of  July,  with  about  two  hundred  men.  Some 
alarming  reports  regarding  cholera  having  prevailed,  he 
desired  the  surgeon  to  examine  all  the  men  carefully  on 
Sunday  evening;  the  order  was  obeyed,  and  a report  of 
their  perfect  health,  without  one  exception,  returned. 

On  Monday  morning,  he  was  awakened  by  the 
surgeon  telling  him  that  there  was  one  deeided  cholera 
case  He  doubted  it,  but  rose  ; before  he  was  dressed 

Vol.  I. — M 


134 


MUSEUM  AT  BALTIMORE. 


the  steward  reported  another.  He  now  fitted  up  a sort 
of  hospital  cabin,  removed  the  two  sick  men  to  it,  with 
the  requisite“orders  fortending  them,  and  went  to  break- 
fast : by  the  lime  he  had  finished  his  meal,  the  two  men 
were  dead,  and  numerous  other  cases  had  occurred. 
They  reached  Chicago  that  afternoon,  and  he  had  then 
thrown  overboard  nineteen  dead,  and  had  to  land 
sixty-five  helplessly  ill,  few  of  whom  recovered  ! They 
had  no  premonitory  symptoms  ; no  medicine  afforded 
the  slightest  relief.  They  were  seized  at  once  with 
fearful  cramps  and  spasms  ; and  General  Eustace  describ- 
ed their  cries  and  yells  as  having  been  acute  and  dread- 
ful in  the  extreme.  In  a few  days  there  were  scarcely 
survivors  enough  to  bury  their  comrades  by  fours  and  fives 
in  large  holes,  which  they  dug  for  the  purpose. 

While  at  Baltimore  I strolled  into  the  museum,  to  see 
the  well-known  figures  of  Tam  O’Shanter  and  Souter 
Johnnie,  which  were  being  exhibited.  I was  contempla- 
ting them  with  the  interest  which  the  home  recollections 
they  suggested  would  naturally  produce,  heightened  not 
a little  by  the  pure  broad  Scotch  with  which  the  exhibitor 
explained  to  the  spectators  their  distinctive  peculiarities, 
when  the  grotesque  group  received  an  addition  which  I 
shall  not  easily  forget.  Oh  ! how  I longed  for  the  pencil 
of  a Wilkie,  or  rather  of  a Reynolds  ! Indeed  the  poetic 
contrast  was  stronger  than  that  presented  by  the  struggle 
between  Tragedy  and  Comedy  for  the  great  actor  of  ihe 
last  century.  Row  I do  now  long  for  t he  pen  of  the  Wi- 
zard of  the  North,  that  I might  delineate,  for  my  own 
satisfaction,  or  for  that  of  others,  the  scene  which,  for  a 
few  moments,  I enjoyed  ! It  was  simply  this.  The 
merry  cobler  was  silting  in  stone,  with  the  broad  smile 
upon  his  countenance,  and  the  half-emptied  can  in  his 
hand,  when  suddenly  I observed  a delicate  round  arm 
passed  round  his  neck,  and  a profusion  of  dark  tresses  min- 
gled with  his  gray  locks  ! It  was  a young  girl,  of  about 
sixteen  or  seventeen  years,  who,  with  the  naivete  of 
youthful  curiosity,  had  approached  to  take  a nearer  view 
of  the  jolly  Souter.  She  was  one  of  the  most  lovely 
creatures  that  ever  I looked  upon  : her  hair  was  dark 
and  glossy  ; her  eyes  black  and  brilliant,  beneath  eye- 


CITY  OP  PHILADELPHIA. 


135 


brows  most  delicately  pencilled,  and  shaded  by  lids  the 
fringe  of  which  threatened  to  tickle  her  rosy  cheek  ; her 
nose  was  of  that  fine  correct  form  so  distinctive  of  Ame- 
rican beauty,  and  round  her  sweet  small  mouth  played 
two  dimples  that  Psyche  might  have  slept  in ; her  figure 
and  her  attitude  blended  the  playful  grace  of  the  child 
with  the  symmetry  of  ripening  bloom;  and  thus,  in 
delighted  and  unconscious  beauty,  did  she  hang  her  arm 
round  Johnny’s  neck  of  stone,  and  look  into  his  grinning 
visage,  her  arch  eyes  beaming  with  surprise,  and  her  full 
cherry  lips  almost  touching  his  rough  cheek  ! I could 
not  forbear  gazing  more  intently  perhaps  than  I ought ; 
she  happened  to  look  up,  and,  on  encountering  my  ri vet- 
ted eyes,  she  blushed  deeply,  and  changed  her  position. 
I turned  and  left  the  room,  for  fear  aught  should  mar  that 
lovely  and  perfect  picture  of  contrast ! 

On  the  following  day  1 went  on  to  Philadelphia,  where 
I remained  twenty-four  hours,  and  took  my  place  in  the 
canal  and  railroad  line  from  thence  to  Pittsburgh,  the 
Birmingham  of  the  West,  and  the  extreme  point  of 
Pennsylvania,  being  three  hundred  and  eighty-five  miles 
from  Philadelphia.  Having  furnished  myself,  by  the 
assistance  of  an  obliging  friend  in  Philadelphia,  with  a 
fleet  dog,  called  or  rather  miscalled,  Peevish , of  a mixed 
greyhound  race,  whose  speed  I proposed  to  try  on  the 
plains  of  Illinois  and  Missouri,  I set  off  on  Friday  morn- 
ing for  Pittsburgh. 

The  opening  of  this  great  railroad,  after  passing  the 
celebrated  water-works  of  Fairmount,  mounts  the  range 
of  hills  which  overlook  the  city  to  the  westward  by  an 
inclined  plane,  ihe  draught-power  being  placed  in  a 
steam-engine  worked  at  the  summit.  As  the  operation 
of  attaching  the  cars  was  somewhat  tedious,  I got  out, 
and  walked  to  the  top  of  the  hill,  when  my  eye  was 
gladdened  by  one  of  the  most  delightful  prospects  ima- 
ginable. 

The  morning  was  bright  as  a young  May  sun  could 
make  it;  the  Schuylkill  wound  gracefully  round  the  base 
of  the  eminence  on  which  I stood,  his  banks  fringed 
with  the  oak,  the  poplar,  and  the  weeping  willow,  and 
studded  with  many  white  and  smiling  villas,  their 


136 


LANCASTER  VALE. 


creeper-covered  arbours  and  neat  lawns  reminding  me  of 
some  of  those  on  the  banks  of  the  Father  Thames  ; 
while,  stretched  on  the  seaward  plain,  lay  the  peaceful 
city  of  Brotherly  Love,  its  bright  spires  glittering  above 
the  light  hazy  smoke  which  partly  hid  and  partly  reveal- 
ed the  humbler  buildings  beneath.  No  pen  can  describe 
the  beauty  of  the  forest-foliage  at  this  “ sweet  hour  of 
prime;”  so  great  was  ihe  variety  of  tree  and  shrub 
which  clothed  the  undulating  hills  around,  all  spangled 
with,  early  dew,  the  brilliant  dog-wood  shining  through 
every  casual  opening,,  and  the  lap  of  earth  beneath 
teeming  with  the  honeysuckle,  the  azalia,.  the  wild  fusia* 
and  hundreds  of  humbler,  though  not  less  lovely,  flow- 
rets. 

Thence  the  railroad  carried  us  through  one  of  the 
richest  and  most  pleasant  valleys  in  America,  or  in  ihe 
world,  called  Lancaster  Vale,  from  the  town  situated  in 
its  bosom.  At  this  season  it  was  one  continued  waving 
sea  of  rye,  clover,  and  wheat : the  farm-houses  were 
almost  all  whitewashed,  with  a neat  garden  in  front,  and 
on  one  or  each  side  a large  orchard,  the  trees  of  w hich 
were  planted  with  the  utmost  regularity,  and  their  fra- 
grant boughs  teeming  with  blossom;  while  here  and 
^here  was  a favouiite  cow,  with  her  jingling  neck-bell,, 
or  a pet  pony,  cropping  the  rich  orchard  grass,  and 
revelling,  with  an  almost  Apician  gluttony,  on  the  luxu- 
riant pasture. 

This  part  of  the  country  was  chiefly  settled  by  Ger- 
mans ; indeed,  many  of  them  can  speak  very  little 
English.  They  have  German  preachers,  and  a German 
printing-press;  and  yet  so  corrupted  is  their  dialect,  that 
I very  much  doubt  whether  a Saxon,  a Brunswdcker,  or 
a Hanoverian  could  understand  them  readily.  One  old 
man  with  whom  I spoke,  w'as  the  third  in  descent., 
American  born,  his  great  grandfather  having  come  from 
Frankfort;  he  could  speak  neither  language  intelligibly; 
his  son,  however,  a well-educated  young  man,  joined  in 
the  conversation,  and  said,  “ Sir,  you  will  not  easily 
understand  this  dialect,  hut  I will  speak  to  you  in 
Luther's  German ;”  upon  which  lie  addressed  several 
sentences  to  me  in  language  tolerably  pure,  both  ir\ 


THE  SITSQUEHANNAH. 


137 


grammar  and  pronunciation.  It  is  almost  needless  to 
say,  that  the  above  phrase  derives  its  origin  from  Lu- 
ther’s translation  of  the  Bible,  still  in  universal  use 
among  the  Germans. 

After  travelling  seventy-two  miles  on  this  railroad,  we 
arrived  at  Columbia,  a village  that  seems  to  possess  a 
brisk  trade  in  lumber,  judging  from  the  vast  piles  collec- 
ted on  each  side  of  the  road.  Here  my  eye  was  regaled 
by  the  first  view  of  the  sweet  and  now  classic  Susque- 
hannah ; and  well  may  that  stream  inspire  the  poet’s  pen 
or  limner’s  pencil. 

The  river,  opposite  Columbia,  winding  round  the  base 
of  the  hill  which  girds  the  eastern  extremity  of  that 
village,  is  there  broad  and  shallow,  and  its  rippling  cur- 
rent is  broken  by  a thousand  little  islets,  many  of  them 
only  a few  feet  in  diameter,  but  which  the  profuse  hand 
of  Nature  has  decked  already  with  moss,  grass,  or  shrub, 
although  in  winter  they  are  probably  submerged  ; but 
now  they  formed  a complete  fresh-water  archipelago. 
Here  we  left  the  railroad  and  took  to  the  canal-boat, 
which,  to  my  great  delight,  followed  the  course  of  the 
river,  and  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  enjoying  for  many 
miles,  the  view  of  its  picturesque  and  woodland  banks. 

After  passing  Harrisburgh,  the  canal  leaves  the  Sus- 
quehannah  at  Petersburg!),  and  courts  her  rival  and 
younger  sister  the  Juniata.  I confess,  with  shame,  that 
I had  never  heard  of  this  river ; yet  are  her  unsung  banks 
as  rich  in  foliage,  in  pleasant  farms,  in  every  variety  of 
beauty,  as  hers  which  are  consecrated  by  the  Legend  of 
Gertrude  : the  average  size  of  the  channel  appears  to  me 
to  be  much  the  same  as  that  of  “royal-towered  Thame’* 
at  Windsor.  The  packets,  or  track-boats,  as  they  are 
here  called,  are  tolerably  comfortable  ; and  their  rate  of 
goingr  is  about  four  miles  an  hour;  which  I preferred  ta 
greater  speed,  as  it  enabled  me  in  the  evening  and  morn- 
ing, when  the  heat  was  not  intense,  to  walk  many  miles 
in  the  enjoyment  of  the  fresh  hill  breeze  and  the  lovely 
everchanging  scenery. 

The  company  on  board  these  boats  is  very  mixed, 
including  every  grade,  from  the  operative  lo  the  highest 
class  in  Philadelphia.  I was  very  fortunate  in  meeting 

M* 


138 


INQUISITIVE  TRAVELLERS. 


with  an  elderly  gentleman  well  known  as  one  of  the 
most  eminent  and  accurate  reporters  in  this  country. 
H is  abilities  are  employed  in  the  service  of  the  National 
Intelligencer ; a paper  conducted  by  gentlemen , and 
remarkable  in  these  days  of  political  profligacy  for  advo- 
cating moderate  sound  opinions,  as  well  for  a rigid 
abstinence  from  that  lone  of  virulence  and  personality 
which  disgraces  a great  many  Ameiican,  and  not  a few 
British,  newspapers.  I think  1 understood  him  to  say 
that  his  remuneration  from  this  paper,  as  a reporter,  was 
about  3000  dollars  (between  6 and  700/.)  per  annum. 

I enjoyed  much  agreeable  and  not  uninstructive  con- 
versation with  this  gentleman,  and  I never  saw  the 
autumn  of  life  adorned  with  more  sober  or  more  cheerful 
hues  : happy  in  his  home,  honoured  by  his  children, 
with  a good  constitution  and  a religious  and  contented 
spirit,  and  maintaining  his  opinions,  which  were  strong 
and  somewhat  peculiar,  with  all  the  warmth  and  energy 
of  youth,  I could  not  help  wishing,  that  thirty  years 
hence,  if  I am  destined  so  long  to  live,  my  mind  and 
body  might  be  in  a similarly  happy  frame. 

I found  an  amusing  contrast  in  the  manners  of  some 
western  travellers,  who  were  cast  in  a rougher  mould: 
they  were  not  satisfied  till  they  had  found  out  who  I 
was,  where  I came  from,  why  I came,  where  I was  go- 
ing to,  how  long  I meant  to  stay,  and,  in  addition  to  these 
particulars,  how  much  my  umbrella  cost,  and  what  was 
the  price  of  my  hat.  This  last  inquiry  was  followed 
by  the  party  taking  it  up  from  the  bench,  and  putting  it 
on  his  head , which  was  not  very  cool,  neither  did  it  ap- 
pear to  have  suffered  much  annoyance  from  water  or 
from  comb;  luckily  the  hat  did  not  fit,  and  after  giving 
it  two  or  three  stout  pulls  in  a vain  attempt  to  draw  it 
over  his  scalp,  he  returned  it  to  me.  Another  fellow 
saw  me  smoking  a Carbanos  cigar ; he  asked  me, 
“Stranger,  have  you  got  another  of  them  things?  I will 
give  you  a cent  for  one”  (a  halfpenny)  I immediately 
gave  him  one,  saying,  in  perfect  good-humour,  “ I will  not 
sell  you  one,  but  I shall  be  very  glad  if  you  will  accept 
this.”  To  my  surprise  he  became  irritated  and  angry, 
and  tried  two  or  three  times  to  force  the  cent  upon  me. 


NOCTURNAL  ANNOYANCE. 


139 


I refused  as  stoutly;  and  at  length  told  him,  that  if  he 
was  determined  to  buy  and  not  accept  the  cigar,  I should 
charge  him  half  a dollar  for  it.  This  view  of  the  case 
induced  him  to  lake  it  gratis,  but  he  seemed  annoyed, 
and  by  no  means  grateful. 

I record  these  curious  traits  as  more  or  less  indicative 
of  the  western  yeoman  : that  these  sturdy  fellows  are 
less  civil  or  good-humoured  than  those  of  a similar  class 
in  Lancashire  or  Yorkshire,  I neither  say  nor  think  ; but 
doubtless  their  freedom  of  manner  and  conduct  would  be 
reckoned  impertinent  in  any  other  country. 

On  the  eve  of  the  25th  we  arrived,  about  four,  at  a 
place  where  one  of  the  locks  was  undergoing  some 
repairs,  and  consequently  the  boat  could  proceed  no 
farther  until  they  were  completed ; an  operation  which 
was  expected  to  last  sotne  three  or  four  hours.  I was 
informed  that  it  was  only  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  to 
Holydaysburgb,  where  the  canal  terminates,  and  the 
journey  is  resumed  the  following  morning  on  a railroad 
across  the  Alleghanies.  I accordingly  left  the  boat,  and 
with  my  stout  stick  in  my  hand,  and  Peevish  gamboling 
at  my  side,  I set  off  on  foot  over  the  hills  to  Holydays- 
burgh.  The  evening  was  beautiful,  but  the  heat  was 
very  severe  for  pedestrian  exercise ; however,  I trudged 
merrily  along  over  a wooded  and  somewhat  rough  coun- 
try, and  a few  hours  brought  me  to  the  village,  where  I 
supped.  In  an  evil  moment,  I determined  to  sleep  in 
the  tavern  instead  of  in  the  close  cabin  of  the  track-boat, 
where  our  hammocks  were  slung  in  tiers  three  deep,  and 
a “ stout  gentleman”  might  have  found  some  difficulty 
in  creeping  into  them. 

Having  procured  a sleeping  apartment  with  only  two 
beds  in  it,  I hired  them  both , under  a pretext  of  a friend 
about  to  follow  me,  and  comforted  myself  with  the  deli- 
cious prospect  of  solitude  and  quiet.  Heu , vatum  ig - 
narce,  mentes  f Scarcely  had  I “ quenched  the  flaming 
minister”  and  nestled  myself  in  the  least  dirty-looking  of 
the  beds,  when  forth  rushed  from  tester,  pillow,  and  post, 
a horde  of  those  *'  blastet  wonriers,”  whose  name  I abhor 
to  write  : — the  well-remembered  night  spent  at  Pico 
presented  its  horrors  to  my  memory  ; and  after  bestow- 


140 


CROSS  THE  ALLEGHAN1ES. 


ing  hundreds  of  random  blows  upon  every  part  of  my 
assaulted  person,  I rose  and  beat  the  whole  blanketed 
field  of  battle  with  a large  towel.  ’T  was  all  in  vain  : 
after  suffering  about  two  hours  of  this  annoyance,  my 
servant  came  in  with  a candle,  by  the  assistance  of  which 
I slew  five  of  the  ringleaders ; but  after  his  departure, 
the  “rebel  rout”  returned  to  the  charge  and  gained  an 
easy  victory. 

In  addition  to  the  draughts  of  pleasure  which  I thus 
took  in  through  the  sense  of  touch,  I might  also  men- 
tion others  which  I enjoyed  through  that  of  hearing,  such 
as  the  baying,  yelping,  and  howling  of  seven  or  eight 
dogs  in  the  yard  below,  whose  power  of  voice  was  only 
equalled  by  its  endurance.  Sleep  would  not  “ light  on 
my  lids,”  and  1 arose  at  daylight,  unrefreshed  and 
wounded  as  if  I had  slept  over  a wasp’s  nest. 

Upon  mentioning  to  the  landlord  the  undesired  com- 
pany with 'which  I had  been  favoured,  he  said,  “Yes,  it 
is  rather  unpleasant.”  I agreed  with  him,  and  with 
much  satisfaction  bade  adieu  to  him  and  his  temple  of 
vermin. 

On  Monday  morning  I entered  the  railroad  car  that  was 
to  convey  me  across  the  Alleghanies.  We  had  to  go  up 
many  inclined  planes  before  we  could  reach  the  summit. 
Some  passengers  are  much  alarmed  at  that  part  of  the 
journey,  because  all  the  cars  are  attached  by  one  iope, 
which  hauls  them  up  the  hill  by  the  power  of  a steam- 
engine  ; and  if  it  were  to  break,  the  cars  and  all  their 
contents  would  probably  be  dashed  to  pieces.  I never 
felt  this  alarm  : why  should  it  break?  the  rope  is  thick 
and  very  strong  ; and  I cannot  understand  why  people 
whose  whole  existence  depends  constantly  upon  strings 
and  fibres  finer  than  thread,  should  fear  to  trust  it  to  the 
security  of  a cable  ! Yet  such  are  the  contradictions 
commonly  incidental  to  human  nature. 

The  passage  over  the  mountain  is  one  continued  scene 
of  rough  wild  woodland.  The  railroad  is  carried  along 
the  sides  of  ridges  of  considerable  height,  and  almost 
precipitous  ; where  I should  think  that  persons  troubled 
with  nerves  might  be  now  and  then  annoyed  and  alarm- 
ed. On  our  descent  from  the  summit,  the.  horses  got 


ARRIVAL  At  JOHNSTOWN. 


141 


frightened  twice  ; the  first  time,  on  meeting  another  line 
of  cars,  they  turned  round  and  got  jammed  between  the 
two  lines,  whence  there  was  some  difficulty  in  extricating 
them  ; the  second  time,  they  went  down  a steep  bank, 
about  twenty  feet  deep,  and  if  it  had  occurred  a little 
sooner  or  later,  it  must  have  been  fatal  to  them,  and 
might  have  been  so  to  us.  However,  we  arrived  in  safe- 
ty at  Johnstown,  where  we  were  transferred  again  to 
the  canal  which  follows  the  course  of  the  river  Cone- 
maugh,  and  we  felt  that  the  journey  was  drawing  to  a 
close,  as  the  waters  now  ran  to  the  west — all  of  them 
hurrying  through  their  multitudinous  channels  to  swell 
the  mighty  tide  of  the  Mississippi.  After  travelling  some 
distance  along  the  banks  of  the  Conemaugh,  its  name, 
probably  from  some  intermediate  tributary  stream,  is 
changed  to  the  Kis-kiminitas  ; the  pronunciation  of  which 
among  a party  of  strangers  gives  rise  to  much  merri- 
ment and  laughter.  On  both  sides  of  its  channel  are 
extensive  salt  works,  and  coal  and  lime  abound.  The 
earth  is  bored  to  the  depth  of  six  or  seven  hundred  feet, 
a copper  tube  is  inserted,  and  the  salt  water  being  drawn 
up  by  a pump,  the  salt  is  extracted  by  boiling  : the 
whole  process  being  carried  on  by  the  assistance  of  steam. 
The  salt  finds  a ready  market  at  Pittsburgh,  “ the  Bir- 
mingham of  the  West. 

One  of  the  principal  engineers  who  had  been  employ- 
ed in  constructing  this  railroad,  happened  to  be  with  us, 
and  from  him  I gathered  some  of  the  subjoined  particu- 
lars. The  length  of  the  canal  and  rail  line  from  Phila- 
delphia to  Pittsburgh,  is  three  hundred  and  eighty-three 
miles,  of  which  about  one  hundred  and  twelve  are  rail- 
road ; the  coast  of  the  whole  was  1,600,000  dollars, 
about  350,000/.;  the  height  of  “the  summit”  is  two 
thousand  three  hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  and  fourteen 
hundred  above  the  canal  at  the  base.  There  are  two 
tunnels  of  considerable  length  in  the  course  of  the  whole 
line  : the  first  is  a railroad  tunnel,  through  one  of  the 
spurs  of  the  Alleghany  mountain,  nine  hundred  feet  long, 
and  the  hill  above  it  is  between  two  and  three  hundred 


feet  high;  the  second  is  a canal  tunnel  of  similar,  di- 
| mansions,  and  passing  also  under  a mountain.  I learned 


142 


RAILROAD. 


with  much  surprise  that  the  former  of  these  vast  excava- 
tions had  cost  only  5000/. 

The  whole  line  reflects  the  highest  credit  both  on  the 
engineers  and  on  the  state.  The  detail  is  certainly  very 
faulty,  as  the  rate  of  travelling  is  unnecessarily  slow 
(about  four  miles  an  hour,  including  stoppages),  and  we 
were  obliged  to  go  back  a mile  once  or  twice,  through 
meeting  other  cais  at  places  where  we  could  not  pass  ; 
but  these  are  trifle's  which  a few  months  will  probably  re- 
medy, and  which  it  would  be  invidious  and  foolish  to 
carp  at,  when  we  consider  the  difficulties  that  have  been 
overcome,  the  wonderful  facilities  of  transportation  that 
have  been  acquired,  and  the  mingled  courage  and  per- 
severance with  which  the  rugged  chain  of  the  Allegha- 
nies  have  been  obliged  to  “ bend  their  stiff  necks,”  and 
lend  their  rough  backs,  to  carry  the  comforts  and  luxu- 
ries of  life  between  the  Atlantic  cities  and  the  “ Great 
Valley  ” 

At  Freeport  we  joined  the  course  of  the  Alleghany 
river,  and  mingled  our  muddy  Kis-kiminatian  waters 
with  its  clear  and  transparent  stream.  The  country  now 
assumed  a more  tame  and  settled  appearance,  while  the 
continual  recurrence  of  coal-smoke  and  steam-engines 
reminded  us  of  our  return  to  civilization.  Pittsburgh 
stands  at  the  junction  of  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahe- 
la,  from  the  union  of  which  two  rivers  springs  the  ma- 
jestic Ohio.  The  town  is,  like  all  other  busy  manufac- 
turing towns,  an  emporium  of  smoke  and  dirt.  The 
inns  are  in  character  with  the  town  ; and,  though  it  is 
situated  on  the  delta  formed  by  two  beautiful  rivers,  and 
the  neighbouring  country  is  both  rich  and  variegated, 
still  I know  nothing  that  need  detain  a stranger  there, 
unless  he  is  anxious  to  make  an  accurate  investigation 
into  the  state  of  its  manufactures. 

It  is  almost  unnecessary  to  add  that  Pittsburgh  was 
originally  a French  settlement,  called  Fort  du  Quesne. 
The  French  were  remarkable  for  the  sagacity  which 
they  showed  in  the  choice  of  their  posts,  and  conse- 
quently did  not  overlook  the  eligible  situation,  both  in 
regard  to  military  objects  and  to  Indian  trade,  which 
Was  afforded  by  the  confluence  of  these  great  rivers.  It 


THE  MARKET. 


143 


was  near  this  spot  that  Braddock  paid  the  penalty  of  his 
rash  and  ignorant  obstinacy  with  his  life  ; and  also  lhat 
one  of  my  countrymen,  Colonel  Grant,  with  nearly  a 
thousand  followers,  mostly  Highlanders,  fell  on  the  side 
of  a hill  which  still  bears  his  name. 

1 strolled  into  the  market,  and  for  several  minutes  really 
fancied  myself  in  one  of  the  smaller  quarters  of  Glas- 
gow or  Birmingham,  so  loud  was  the  din,  so  smoke- 
blacked  were  the  bricks,  so  noisy  were  the  dogs  gather- 
ed round  the  shambles,  and  so  “ proudly  eminent”  above 
all  other  sounds  was  Paddy’s  vernacular  voice,  male  or 
famale,  whether  raised  in  fun,  bargain,  or  wrath  ! The 
only  item  calculated  to  dispel  the  illusion  was  the  num- 
ber of  broad-faced  and  broad-sterned,  fair-haired  butch- 
ers, whose  naiive  land  might  easily  be  guessed , without 
Yankee  ingenuity,  and  without  looking  at  the  boards 
over  their  stalls,  with  their  various  inscriptions  of 
“Schmidt,”  “ Reinhardt,”  “ Hermann,”  &c.  The  price 
of  the  best  beef  was  about  eight  cents  (or  4 d.)  per  lb. 

The  'principal  manufactures  in  this  town  are  iron, 
steam-engines,  cutlery,  cotton  and  woollen,  tin  and  cop- 
per, and  glass.  In  all  these,  great  facility  is  afforded  by 
the  abundance  and  proximity  of  coal,  which  is  worked, 
with  small  trouble  and  expense,  by  horizontal  shafts 
penetrating  the  sides  of  ihe  adjacent  mountains,  where 
the  coal  strata  are  very  thick  and  regular.  The  means 
of  water-carriage  are  already  most  extensive,  and  addi- 
tional canals,  in  a northerly  and  north-westerly  direction, 
are  in  contemplation,  or  perhaps,  in  progress. 

As  I wished  to  arrive  as  soon  as  possible  at  St.  Louis, 
I did  not  visit  the  singular  establishment  of  Mr.  Rapp, 
(the  German  Owen),  at  Economy — a prettily  situated  vil- 
lage, about  eighteen  miles  below  Pittsburgh  ; I have 
heard  much  of  its  neatness,  and  of  the  strange  nature  of 
its  various  arrangements.  There  are  several  factories, 
and  the  inhabitants,  who  are  mostly  Germans,  are  quiet 
and  industrious  in  their  habits.  Mr.  Rapp  is  the  patri- 
arch of  the  settlement ; his  word  is  law  ; and  he  acts  in 
the  capacity  of  clergyman,  judge,  and  director.  No 
marriage  is  allowed  ; and  various  other  absurd  regula- 
tions are  observed,  the  general  impracticability  of  which 


144 


EMBARK  ON  THE  OHIO. 


is  concealed  by  the  diminutive  scale  on  which  they  are 
practised,  by  the  authority  of  the  chief,  by  the  respecta- 
bility of  the  settlers,  and  by  the  beauty  and  attraction  of 
the  situation.  I have  seen  some  tolerable  silks  that  have 
been  made  and  dyed  in  this  establishment. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Embark  on  the  Ohio. — Banks  of  the  River. — Wheeling. — Remark- 
able Indian  Mound. — Risings  of  the  River — Arrival  at  Cincin- 
nati.— The  Town. — The  Museum. — Manufacture. - — Mrs.  Trollope's 
Bazaar — her  erroneous  Statements. — Prosperity  of  Cincinnati. — 
Hospitality  of  its  Inhabitants. — American  Servants. — The  Cholera. 
— Contrast  between  the  States  of  Ohio  and  Kentucky. — Character 
of  the  Kentuckians. — Brutal  Method  of  Fighting. 

Having  spent  a day  at  Pittsburgh,  I committed  my- 
self to  the  bosom  of  “ La  Belle  Riviere ” (as  the  French 
used  to  call  the  Ohio),  on  the  first  steam-boat  with  a 
high  pressure  engine  ihat  I had  yet  seen.  The  noise, 
the  furious  and  vain  attempt  made  by  the  confined  caloric 
to  escape,  and  the  violent  shaking  of  the  vessel,  render 
it  more  disagreeable  than  those  impelled  by  low-pressure 
engines;  and,  however  the  western  worthies  may  wish 
to  disguise  the  truth,  they  are  much  more  dangerous. 
While  on  board,  I read  an  account  of  the  bursting  of  a 
boiler  a few  days  previously,  lower  down  the  river,  by 
which  thirty  or  forty  persons  were  killed  or  missing  ! I 
heard  a rough  Kentuckian  chap  relating,  that  he  had 
been  on  board  the  steamer  at  the  lime  of  the  explosion  ; 
he  said  he  felt  a sort  of  a “queer  shake,  but  he  did  not 
mind  it  at  all and  he  concluded  his  pithy  narration  of 
the  death  of  these  thirty  or  forty  luckless  victims  by  say- 
ing, “ It  was  d — d lucky,  it  was  only  a parcel  of  these 
Dutch  meaning  thereby  that  the  sufferers  were  chiefly 
German  emigrants. 

The  Ohio  is  indeed  a noble  and  majestic  stream,  flow- 1 
ing  between  high  and  undulating  banks  teeming  with  a„ 
profusion  of  foliage,  which  includes  every  verdant  hue 
from  the  willow  to  the  cedar.  Wherever  clearances 


WHEELING. GRAVE  CREEK. 


145 


have  been  made,  the  trees  immediately  on  the  water’s 
edge  have  been  spared,  in  order  that  their  huge  trunks 
and  wide-spread  roots  might  break  the  force  of  the  cur- 
rent, which  rises  after  the  melting  of  the  snows  to  an  ex- 
traordinary height.  I observed  many  of  ihem  growing, 
twenty  or  thirl y feet  perpendicular,  above  the  present 
elevaiion  of  the  stream,  with  the  soil  completely  wash- 
ed from  their  base,  and  their  sinewy  fibrous  roots  exposed 
above  the  earth,  and  giving  clear  evidence  of  the  furious 
attacks  which  they  had  resisted.  This  perpetual  fringe  of 
verdure,  together  with  the  equable  and  quiet  nature  of 
the  current,  gives  a tone  of  beauty  and  repose  to  this 
river  that  I have  never  seen  equalled  ; while  its  nume- 
rous bends,  and  the  islands  which  here  and  there  break 
its  uniformity,  prevent  the  eye  from  being  cloyed  by  the 
profuse  and  interminable  mass  of  foliage. 

After  passing  Wellsburgh  and  several  other  villages 
which  bore  a busy  and  thriving  appearance,  we  arrived 
at  Wheeling,  situated  on  the  extreme  north-western 
point  of  Virginia.  This  is  a town  of  considerable  and 
increasing  importance  ; the  soil  is  alluvial,  and  the  great- 
est obstacle  to  its  becoming  a very  wealthy  city,  appears 
to  be  the  extreme  narrowness  of  the  ledge  on  which  it 
is  built,  there  being  but  a small  area  between  the  moun- 
tains and  the  river ; so  that  the  streets,  if  extended, 
must  be  extended  only  longitudinally.  The  neighbour- 
hood abounds  with  coal  ; and  the  great  national  western 
road  passes  through  this  town,  which  contains  probably 
from  seven  to  eight  thousand  inhabitants. 

Among  other  objects  of  interest,  a spot  was  pointed 
out  to  me,  about  fifteen  miles  below  Wheeling,  by  the 
side  of  a stream,  called,  if  I remember  right,  Grave 
Creek — an  Indian  mound,  composed  of  bones  and 
skulls.  It  is  between  one  hundred  and  fifty  and  two 
hundred  yards  in  circumference  at  the  base,  seventy 
feet  high,  and  sixty  feet  in  diameter  at  the  summit,  which 
is  concave  ; the  whole  is  regular  and  uniform  in  its  con- 
struction. By  what  race  and  in  what  age  these  gigantic 
mounds  were  raised,  has  hitherto  been,  and  probably 
ever  will  be,  an  unexplained  mystery  : it  seems  highly 
improbable  that  they  were  constructed  bv  any  Indian 

Vol.  I.— N 


146 


RISINGS  OF  THE  RIVER. 


tribes,  so  vast  are  their  dimensions,  and  so  great  the  la- 
bour necessary  to  build  them,  as  well  as  the  population 
requisite  to  fill  them. 

The  average  breadth  of  the  Ohio,  between  Pittsburgh 
and  Cincinnati,  is  six  hundred  yards,  but  it  varies  more 
than  most  rivers  at  the  different  seasons  of  ihe  year; 
indeed,  the  “ freshes,”  or  rapid  risings  to  which  it  is  lia- 
ble after  heavy  rains,  are  productive  of  great  inconve- 
nience and  sometimes  of  danger  to  the  residents  near  its 
banks.  As  an  instance  of  the  former,  I might  mention 
the  impossibility  of  erecting  wharfs  or  quays  at  different 
commercial  ports,  where  the  want  of  such  conveniences 
is  but  poorly  supplied  by  house-boats,  or  floating  wharfs, 
moored  close  to  the  shore.  I was  told  that  two  or  three 
years  ago  the  river  rose  sixty  feet  in  height,  and  flooded 
all  the  lower  parts  of  Cincinnati  and  other  towns,  so  that 
the  inhabitants  were  reduced  to  the  gondola  for  their 
daily  intercourse ; provisions  were  introduced  into  the 
houses  through  the  windows  of  the  second  and  third  story, 
and  steam-boats  plyed  to  and  from  the  market-place. 

The  only  fault  of  the  scenery,  in  descending  this  noble 
river,  is  the  rich  endless  variety  of  foliage  which  its 
banks  present  to  the  eye,  and  the  want  of  any  breaks  or 
vistas  by  which  a view  of  the  adjacent  country  could  be 
here  and  there  obtained  : it  is  self-evident,  from  what  has 
been  said  of  the  rising  of  the  water,  that  such  a pictu- 
resque luxury  would  be  most  destructive  to  the  banks. 

On  the  last  day  of  spring  J arrived  at  Cincinnati,  that 
precocious  daughter  of  the  West,  that  seems  to  have 
sprung,  like  the  fabled  goddess  of  war  and  wisdom,  into 
existence,  in  the  full  panoply  of  manufacturing  and  com- 
mercial armour.  Its  situation  is  admirably  chosen  both 
for  convenience  and  beauty,  as  it  stands  on  a plain  gently 
inclining  towards  the  river;  the  area  of  this  plain  is 
nearly  four  miles  in  diameter,  bounded  on  the  north, 
north-east,  and  north-west  by  an  undulating  well-wooded 
range  of  hills,  from  the  top  of  which  the  view  of  the 
fertile  vale,  the  city,  and  the  sweeping  river,  with  its 
broad  bosom  speckled  by  steamers  and  other  boats,  is 
one  of  the  loveliest  that  the  eye  can  desire. 

The  streets  in  this  city  are  laid  out  rectangularly  ; and 


CINCINNATI. 


147 


thus  the  eye,  in  looking  along  the  greater  part  of  them, 
rests  upon  the  hills  before  described,  which  gives  a fresh- 
ness to  the  prospect  rarely  to  be  found  in  a town.  Many 
of  the  private  houses  are  large  and  commodious,  and 
some  of  them  surrounded  by  pleasant  and  neatly  cultivat- 
ed gardens ; there  are  about  thirty  churches,  a college, 
a lunatic  asylum,  and  one  for  orphans,  and  other  public 
buildings  usually  found  in  a wealthy  city. 

The  museum  contains  little  worthy  of  notice  ; more- 
over, its  contents,  mean  as  they  are,  are  miserably  defi- 
cient in  order  and  arrangement.  I was  surprised  and 
disappointed,  as  I had  heard  much  of  the  valuable 
collection  to  be  seen  in  this  establishment.  There  are 
a few  fossil  mammoth  bones  of  extraordinary  size,  and 
also  a number  of  skulls  found  in  some  of  the  ancient 
mounds,  differing  materially  in  form  from  those  of  the 
modern  race  of  Indians.  There  are  also  several  banks 
and  insurance  companies,  and  about  twenty  periodical 
publications,  three  or  four  of  which  are  daily  papers  ; I 
also  saw  one  German  weekly  paper,  Der  Deutsche 
Franklin*  as  well  written,  and  better  printed  than  most 
of  those  which  I have  seen  in  the  provincial  towns  in 
Germany. 

The  chief  article  of  manufacture  {though  there  are 
many  others  of  inferior  extent),  is  iron,  in  every  form 
and  shape,  especially  in  the  construction  of  steam-en- 
gines. I am  told  that  about  one  third  of  the  steamers 
on  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio,  amounting,  in  all,  to  nearly 
five  hundred,  have  been  built  here.  The  population,  as 
near  as  I can  form  a calculation  from  observation  and  in- 
quiry, is  about  forty  thousand.  They  are  chiefly  com- 
posed of  emigrants  from  New  England,  from  Germany, 
from  all  parts  of  the  States,  and,  indeed,  of  the  world. 

The  building  which  is  the  most  absurd,  ugly,  and 
ridiculous  in  the  town,  exhibiting  a want  of  taste  and  in- 
vention only  equalled  by  the  contempt  which  it.  displays 
for  every  rule  of  architecture,  gothic  or  classic,  is  the 
bazaar  built  by  Mrs.  Trollope  ; a lady  who  did  all  that 
Lay  within  the  power  of  her  clever  and  caricaturing  pen  to 


* The  German  Franklin, 


148 


MANUFACTURES. 


hold  up  the  inhabitants  of  Cincinnati  to  the  ridicule  of  the 
civilized  world,  as  regards  their  manners,  their  habits, 
a‘nd  their  taste.  This  bazaar  is  a large  non-descript 
edifice  of  brick,  with  a stone,  or  imitation  of  stone,  face  : 
it  has  pillars,  a cupola,  gothic  windows  surmounted  by 
Grecian  architraves,  and  scraps  of  every  order  (or  dis- 
order), from  a square  brick  box  to  an  Ionic  volute  ! 
Neither  can  I compliment  the  lady’s  sagacity  any  more 
than  her  taste  ; as  in  this  thriving  city  her  speculation  is, 
probably,  the  most  signal  and  complete  failure  that  has 
occurred  since  its  settlement  ! After  losing  the  greater 
part  of  the  money  embarked  in  it,  she  was  obliged  to 
leave  it  unfinished. 

As  far  as  my  short  visit  enabled  me  to  judge,  her  ac- 
curacy of  description  is  upon  a par  with  the  monuments 
which  she  has  left  here  of  her  speculative  sagacity  and 
taste.  1 have  been  in  company  with  ten  or  twelve  of 
the  resident  families,  and  have  not  seen  one  single  in- 
stance of  rudeness,  vulgarity,  or  incivility  ; while  the 
shortness  of  the  invitations,  and  absence  of  constraint 
and  display,  render  the  society  more  agreeable,  in  some 
respects,  than  that  of  more  fashionable  cities.  If  the 
proposition  stated  is  merely  this  ; “ that  the  manners  of 
Cincinnati  are  not  so  polished  as  those  of  the  best  circles 
in  London,  Paris,  or  Berlin ; that  her  luxuries,  whether 
culinary  or  displayed  in  carriages,  houses,  or  amuse- 
ments, are  also  of  a lower  cast I suppose  none  would 
be  so  absurd  as  to  deny  it.  I hope  few  would  be  weak 
enough  gravely  to  inform  the  world  of  so  self-evident  a 
truth  ; but  I will,  without  fear  of  contradiction,  assert, 
that  the  history  of  the  world  does  not  produce  a parallel 
to  Cincinnati  in  rapid  growth  of  wealth  and  population. 
Of  all  the  cities  that  have  been  founded  by  mighty  sove- 
reigns or  nations,  with  an  express  view  to  their  becom- 
ing the  capitals  of  empires,  there  is  not  one  that,  in 
twenty-seven  years  from  its  foundation,  could  show  such 
a mass  of  manufacture,  enterprise,  population,  wealth, 
and  social  comfort,  as  that  of  which  I have  given  a short 
and  imperfect  outline  in  the  last  two  or  three  pages;  and 
which  owes  its  magnitude  to  no  adscilitious  favour  or  en- 
couragement, but  to  the  judgment  with  which  the  situa- 


PROSPERITY. 


149 


lion  was  chosen,  and  to  the  admirable  use  which  its  in- 
habiUi.ts  have  made  thereof. 

When  I think  of  the  short  period  that  has  elapsed  since 
the  red  Indian,  the  bear,  the  elk,  and  the  buffalo  roamed 
through  these  hills  ; since  the  river  (bearing  on  its  bosom 
nothing  but  the  bark  canoe,  or  the  flat  bottomed  boat  of 
the  Indian  trader)  flowed  in  silence  through  the  massive 
and  impenetrable  forest ; and  turn  from  that  fancied  pic- 
ture to  the  one  now  before  my  eyes,  displaying  crowded 
and  busy  streets,  rattling  with  drays  and  carriages  : fac- 
tories on  all  sides,  resounding  with  the  regular  and 
mighty  swing  of  the  engine ; numerous  taper  spires 
pointing  to  heaven ; thence  turn  to  the  river,  and  see  it 
alive  with  streaming  commerce;  and,  look  beyond  over 
the  villages,  the  neat  farms,  the  orchards,  and  the  gardens 
— I am  filled  with  astonishment  and  admiration  at  the 
energy  and  industry  of  man.  and  with  pride  at  the  self- 
suggested  reflection,  that  this  metamorphosed  wilderness 
is  the  work  of  Britain’s  sons  ; and  I do  pity,  from  the 
bottom  of  my  heart,  the  man  (and,  above  all  others,  the 
Englishman)  who  can  see  nothing  in  such  a scene,  but 
food  for  unjust  comparisons,  sneers,  raillery,  and  ridicule  ! 

I rode  out  twice  to  take  a view  of  the  surrounding 
country.  My  only  acquaintance  in  the  city  was  with  a 
family  whom  I had  never  seen  before  my  arrival,  but 
some  members  of  which  I had  known  at  Fayal  ; and 
with  a Scotch  gentleman  and  his  wife,  whom  I had  met 
at  Washington,  and  who  had  lately  arrived  ; and  yet, 
with  these  small  means  of  introduction  to  society,  I re- 
ceived invitations  for  the  evening,  several  for  dinner, 
and  was  obliged  to.  decline  two  or  three  polite  offers  of 
a saddle-horse,  from  persons  to  whom  I had  been  or  ly 
introduced  a few  hours  before.  On  both  occasions  when 
I rode  out,  I went  in  company  with  ladies  ; and  there 
was  nothing  in  any  of  the  detail  of  the  equipage  that 
would  have  caused  a smile  in  a riding  party  in  Windsor 
or  Richmond  Park,  except  that  the  horses  are  wont  to 
rack  or  pace — a kind  of  gait  that  I think  equally  un- 
graceful and  disagreeable,  but  doubtless  combining  easy 
motion  wiih  tolerable  speed. 

The  gentry  in  our  European  cities  could  not  conceive, 
N* 


150 


AMERICAN  SERVANTS. 


and  could  hardly  be  made  to  understand,  the  difficulties 
in  which  those  of  their  class  find  themselves  here  in  re- 
gard to  servants.  The  latter  are  indeed  the  most  capri- 
cious of  tyrants.  Wealthy  and  respectable  families,  instead 
of  their  proper  complement  of  servants,  are  sometimes 
left  with  one  or  two  maids  in  the  house,  and  are  unable 
to  give  a dinner  to  their  neighbours.  Moreover,  these 
said  tyrants  stay  exactly  as  long  as  they  please  ; a 
month,  a week,  a day,  and  leave  without  a moment’s 
warning,  sure  of  finding  immediate  employment. 

On  the  second  morning  after  my  arrival,  the  proprie- 
tor of  the  tavern  in  which  I lodged  went  to  market,  as 
usual,  early,  leaving  his  kitchen  full  of  servants,  about 
to  prepare  breakfast  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  or  two 
hundred  ; on  his  return,  he  found  that  the  said  meal  was 
not  forthcoming  with  its  ordinary  alacrity  ; and  on  going 
into  his  kitchen,  discovered  that  his  cook  and  four  of  his 
kitchen-maids  had  left  him,  none  of  them  having  thought 
it  worth  while  to  tell  of  their  intention.  He  said  they 
would  come  or  send,  in  a few  days,  for  their  wages,  and 
if  they  were  not  immediately  paid,  would  sue  him  ! 

My  occupations  and  amusements  in  Cincinnati  were 
most  disagreeably  interrupted  by  a severe  attack  of 
cholera.  This  painful  disorder  had  lately  re-appeared 
in  several  places  in  the  neighbourhood  ; and,  although 
its  ravages  were  not  so  extensive  as  in  the  year  1832, 
they  were  sufficient  to  fill  the  town  with  alarm,  and  to 
cause  similar  precautionary  and  sanatory  regulations  to 
those  which  had  been  before  observed.  I was  for  three 
days  under  its  baneful  influence. 

On  the  morning  of  the  second  day,  after  I had  gone 
through  the  violent  depletions  which  affect  the  stomach 
in  the  first  stages  of  the  disorder,  the  total  prostration  of 
strength,  and  the  sharp  convulsive  cramps  which  1 ex- 
perienced in  my  legs,  gave  reason  to  believe  I should 
probably  not  recover.  I nowdictaled  and  signed  a short 
letter,  and  a few  testamentary  particulars,  addressed  to 
the  British  Legation  at  Washington,  addins  a superscrip- 
tion, that  the  seal  was  not  to  be  broken  until  the  news  of 
my  death  was  confirmed.*  After  this  I recollect  but 

* On  my  return  to  Washington  next  year,  I had  the  pleasure  of 
burning  this  my  Cincinnati  will. 


OHIO  AND  KENTUCKY. 


151 


little  of  what  passed  for  some  hours.  My  servant  said, 
that  my  “ face  was  just  the  colour  of  lead  and  the  phy- 
sician who  attended  me  told  me  afterwards,  that  he  gave 
me,  in  an  hour  and  a half,  one  hundred  and  eighty  grains 
of  calomel,  in  three  doses  of  sixty  grains  each.  A sort 
of  lethargy  into  which  I had  fallen,  was  succeeded  by 
a more  natural  sleep;  and  on  the  third  day,  the  crisis 
was  passed,  and,  although  exceedingly  weak  and  re- 
duced, I was  out  of  danger. 

It  would  be  most  ungrateful,  were  I to  forget  that  I 
received  from  the  family  which  I have  before  mentioned, 
every  attention  that  kindness  could  dictate  or  my  state 
admit.  The  gentleman  called  on  me  two  or  three  times 
a-day,  sent  me  from  his  house  a comfortable  pillow,  wish- 
ing to  add  a better  mattress  than  the  one  on  which  1 lay  ; 
and,  moreover,  pressed  me  most  earnestly  to  take  up  my 
invalid  abode  under  his  roof.  There  are  very  few  of  the 
older  and  more  luxurious  cities  where  a stranger  could 
expect  to  meet  with  similar  kindness. 

It  appears  to  me  (from  the  limited  opportunities  that 
I have  enjoyed  for  observing)  that  no  two  bordering  states 
in  the  Union  differ  so  much  in  the  character  of  their 
population  as  Ohio  and  Kentucky.  This  difference  is 
partially  occasioned  by  the  following  causes  : — First, 
Kentucky  is  a slave  state  ; Ohio  is  not.  Secondly,  Ohio 
was  chiefly  settled  by  Germans,  New  Englanders,  a few 
British,  and,  in  short,  an  industrious  agricultural  class; 
while  Kentucky  was  chiefly  settled  by  the  western  Vir- 
ginians, a wild,  high-spirited,  and  somewhat  rough  tribe 
of  hunters.  Thirdly,  the  soil  of  the  two  states  tends 
to  the  distinction  between  them,  which  I have  partly  at- 
tributed to  their  origin. 

Ohio  contains  probably  a higher  average  of  good  arable 
land,  compared  with  its  whole  extent,  than  any  other 
state  in  the  Union,  so  that  the  bear,  the  wolf,  and  even 
the  deer,  are  almost  banished  from  their  woods,  and 
agriculture  forms  the  chief  employment  of  the  people 
while  Kentucky,  although  boasting  of  a fine  soil,  some 
tracts  of  great  fertility,  and  a luxuriant  growth  of  timber, 
has  still  large  portions  of  country  only  trodden  by  the 
foot  of  the  hunter,  and  that  of  the  various  objects  of  hi& 


152 


COWARDLY  PRACTICE. 


pursuit.  These  causes  (probably  combined  with  others 
which  I have  omitted)  have  produced  a wide  and  marked 
difference  of  character.  The  Ohians  are  a quiet,  indus- 
trious, peaceable  people,  carrying  the  “ republicanism  of 
democracy”  (as  their  German  newspapers  call  it)  to  its 
highest  pitch  ; but  too  far  removed  from  the  scene  of 
action,  and  not  sufficiently  congregated  in  manufacturing 
or  commercial  masses,  to  give  to  their  political  feelings 
the  bitterness  and  personality  so  prevalent  in  the  East. 
There  is  no  material  difference  in  the  forms  of  govern- 
ment of  the  two  states,  except  ihat  in  Ohio  the  gover- 
nor and  senators  aie  biennially  chosen,  whereas  in  Ken- 
tucky they  are  elected  for  four  years  ; in  both,  the  House 
of  Representatives  is  annually  elected  by  what  may  be 
called  universal  suffrage,  i.  e.  every  citizen,  being  twenty- 
one  years  of  age,  and  resident  in  the  state. 

The  character  of  the  Kentuckians  has  greater  merits 
and  greater  faults  ; their  moral  features  are  more  broadly 
and  distinctly  marked.  Descended,  as  1 before  said, 
from  the  western  hunters,  and  some  of  them  from  the 
more  wealthy  planters  of  Virginia  and  North  Carolina, 
they  are  brave,  generous,  proud,  frank,  and  hospitable, 
but  apt  at  the  same  time  to  be  rough,  overbearing,  and 
quarrelsome.  They  are  extremely  vain  of  their  state, 
and  inclined  to  play  the  braggart,  as  well  in  her  praises 
as  their  own  ; the  former  fault,  / for  one,  can  freely  for- 
give them,  as  the  want  of  local  or  home  attachment  is 
one  of  the  least  agreeable  features  of  American  cha- 
racter. They  are,  moreover,  pretty  strongly  imbued  (pro- 
bably through  their  Virginian  descent)  with  a taste  for 
gambling,  horse-racing,  &c.,  which  is  perhaps  strength- 
ened by  their  frequent  intercourse,  on  their  northern  and 
western  frontier,  with  the  numerous  gamblers,  or  sports- 
men,” who  come  up  the  river  in  spring  and  summer  to 
avoid  the  heat  and  malaria  of  New  Orleans  and  the  ad- 
jacent country. 

In  addition  to  the  above  traits  of  character,  there  is 
one  of  which  I cannot  speak  otherwise  than  with  un- 
qualified reprobation — I mean  the  cowardly  and  almost 
universal  practice  of  carrying  a dirk-knife.  This  instru- 
ment, which,  like  the  Italian  stiletto,  is  only  fit  for  the 


“ ROUGH  AND  TUMBLE.”  153 

hand  of  an  assassin,  is  displayed  upon  every  occasion. 
It  has  ordinarily  a blade  about  six  or  eight  inches  long, 
sharp  on  boih  sides  toward  the  point,  and  comes  out  of 
the  handle  bv  a spring,  which  also  prevents  its  closing 
on  the  hand  of  the  owner.  I have  seen  several  well- 
dressed  Kentuckians,  who  would  probably  think  them- 
selves injured  if  they  were  not  considered  gentlemen  of 
the  first  grade,  picking  their  teeth  with  these  elegant 
pocket  companions,  in  public;  and  I have  repeatedly 
seen  them,  while  engaged  in  conversation,  employ  their 
hands  in  opening  and  shutting  this  dirk-spring,  as  a Lon- 
don dandy  on  the  stage  raps  his  boots  and  shakes  his 
watch-seals,  or  sometimes  in  real  life,  for  want  of  ma- 
nual employment,  draws  his  glove  on  and  off,  or  smooths 
down  the  felt  of  his  hat. 

Now,  I would  ask  any  candid  Kentuckian,  from  what 
“chiv'lrous”  precedent  (which  epithet  they  are  very 
fond  of  applying  to  themselves),  or  from  what  principle, 
just,  noble,  or  Christian,  is  this  habit  derivable  ? Man 
is  sufficiently  irascible,  and  when  angry,  prone  enough  to 
inflict  injury  on  his  fellow-creature,  without  deliberately 
furnishing  himself  with  a weapon  calculated  to  occasion 
death,  or  permanent  mutilation,  upon  the  occasion  of  the 
slightest  dispute  or  ebulition  of  temper.  I believe  it  is 
Virgil,  who,  in  describing  a savage  popular  tumult,  says, 
“Furor  arma  minislrat;”  and  surely  experience  tests  its 
truth;  but  this  people  determine,  that  the  voice  of  rea- 
son or  reflection  shall  not  have  one  moment  to  whisper 
a suggestion,  but  that  their  passions  (naturally  hot  and 
ungovernable)  shall  never  want  a sudden  and  deadly 
minister.* 

It  might  be  supposed,  that  the  coarse  and  brutal  me- 
thod of  fighting,  still  frequently  adopted  in  this  state  un- 
der the  name  of  “ rough  and  tumble,”,  is  sufficiently  sa- 
vage to  satisfy  the  parties  concerned.  In  this,  as  is 
well  known,  they  tear  one  another’s  hair,  bite  off  noses 
and  ears,  gouge  out  eyes,  and,  in  short,  endeavour  to  de- 

* This  subject  is  well  illustrated  by  the  words  in  which  Macbeth  ex- 
presses his  determination  to  murder  the  wife  and  children  ofMacDuff; 
-r“  The  very  firstlings  of  my  heart  shall  be  the  firstlings  of  my  hand  V ’ 
-*-Act  iv.  sc.  1, 


154  “ ROUGH  AND  TUMBLE.” 

stroy  or  mutilate  each  other ; but  this  is  not  considered 
sufficient,  and  Birmingham  and  Pittsburgh  are  obliged  to 
complete  by  the  dirk-knife  the  equipment  of  the  “ chi- 
valric  Kentuckian.”  I am  fully  aware  that  the  stories 
current  respecting  “ gouging”  are  exaggerated,  and  mostly 
invented  ; and  I am  also  aware,  that  many  gentlemen, 
especially  among  those  of  advanced  age,  in  Kentucky, 
disapprove  of  these  practices ; but  the  general  argument 
remains  nevertheless  untouched  ; the  “ rough  and  turn-  t 
ble”  fight  is  still  permitted  by  the  spectators  ; and  if  two 
angry  men  have  one  another  by  the  throat,  and  there  is 
no  check  upon  their  fury,  either  in  their  own  feelings  and 
habits,  or  in  public  opinion,  the  result  in  any  country 
would  be  similarly  savage.  They  may  formerly  have 
had  an  excuse  for  constantly  carrying  a weapon,  when 
their  houses  and  families  were  hourly  liable  to  be  sur- 
prised by  the  war-whoop  of  the  Indians  ; but  against 
whom  is  the  dirk-knife  now  sharpened?  against  brothers, 
cousins,  and  neighbours  ! 

One  feature  that  I have  always  admired  in  the  English 
character,  and,  indeed,  have  looked  upon  with  envy  (as 
my  own  countrymen,  especially  the  Highlanders,  have  it 
not),  is  their  contempt  for  all  lethal  weapons,  and  their 
honest  determined  support  of  fair  play  in  all  personal  ren- 
counters. If  a combatant  in  England  were  to  practice 
any  “ rough  and  tumble”  tricks,  such  as  kneeling  on  a 
man’s  throat  or  chest  when  on  the  ground,  or  gouging,  or 
biting,  he  would  receive  a hearty  drubbing  from  the 
spectators,  and  conclude  the  entertainment  (in  my  opin- 
ion very  deservedly)  in  the  nearest  horse-pond  in  which 
he  could  be  immersed.  I trust  that  the  progress  of 
civilization,  and  increasing  weight  of  a sounder  public 
opinion,  will  soon  put  a stop  to  the  custom  above  cen- 
sured, which  is  not  confined  to  Kentucky,  but  is  more  or 
less  prevalent  in  the  whole  valley  of  the  Mississippi, 
especially  in  Louisiana. 


LEAVE  CINCINNATI. 


155 


CHAPTER  XII. 


Leave  Cincinnati  for  Louisville. — Reminiscences. — Louisville. — Re- 
publican Incongruity. — Swearing  in  the  Western  States. — Start  for 
Lexington. — Beautiful  Scenery. — Curious  Sermon. — Arrival  at  Lex- 
ington.— Meeting  with  Miss  Martineau. — General  Shelby’s  Farm. 
— Situation  of  Lexington. — Its  public  Institutions. — System  of 
Education  in  America. — Lunatic  Asylum. — Evening  Parlies. — Mu- 
[ sical  Soiree. — A Serenade. — Mr.  Clay. — Return  to  Louisville. — 
Embark  for  Saint  Louis  — Passage  down  the  Ohio. — Robbers’  Cave, 
— The  “ Father  of  Waters.” 

On  the  4th  of  June  I left  Cincinnati  for  Louisville,  on 
board  the  Benjamin  Franklin.  The  Ohio  still  preserved 
the  dignity  and  majesty  of  its  course  ; and  I sat  on  the 
second  and  cooler  deck  of  the  steamer,  being  partly  re- 
covered from  my  late  attack,  but  with  my  mind  and  body 
both  somewhat  depressed  by  its  influence,  in  this  mu- 
sing melancholy  mood  did  I look  on  the  mighty  stream 
beneath,  and  the  undulating  banks  on  each  side,  crowned 
with  every  variety  of  hue  and  form  that  the  forest-trees, 
those  vegetable  giants,  could  assume ; and  memory  led 
me  back  to  those  joyous  and  never-to-be-forgotten  scenes, 
which  the  annual  recurrence  of  this  day  used  to  bring 
with  it,  when  celebrated  by  Eton’s  sons  under  old  Wind- 
sor’s towers.  Then,  indeed,  “ all  was  sunshine  in  each 
breast.”  The  emulation  of  the  rowers — the  cheers  of 
their  respective  supporters — the  gallant  display  of  ban- 
ners and  steerers’  dresses — the  military  bands — made  the 
time-honoured  fortress  walls  echo  to  the  national  anthem, 
and  many  a young  heart  beat,  and  many  a young  cheek 
glowed,  with  a foretaste  of  the  part  which  they  were  one 
day  destined  to  take  in  Britain’s  glories.  Alma  Mater , 
Etona  ! thy  sons  little  know  how  they  love  thee  until 
many  years  after  they  have  bidden  thee  farewell  : then 
they  turn  back  to  thee  with  fond  and  grateful  recollec- 
tions, such  as  now  occupied  my  musings  on  Ohio’s 
stream. 


156 


REPUBLICAN  INCONGRUITY. 


In  twelve  hours  we  reached  Louisville,  having  then  run 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  Cincinnati,  through 
scenery  resembling,  both  in  beauty  and  character,  that  be- 
fore described  above  the  latter  town  ; for  Indiana,  which 
lies  on  the  north-western  bank  of  the  Ohio,  at  this  part  of 
its  course,  is  vying  with  its  neighbours  in  improvement ; 
and  nature  has  given  it  extensive  tracts  of  fine  soil,  which 
the  tide  of  immigration  is  rapidly  reducing  to  cultiva- 
tion. 

Louisville  is  a very  active  busy  town,  containing  about 
twenty  thousand  inhabitants.  In  the  spring,  and  eaily 
part  of  summer,  it  is  crowded  by  fugitives  from  the 
neighbourhood  of  New  Orleans,  on  their  way  to  their  va- 
rious places  of  refuge  from  heat  and  disease.  The  ho- 
tel is  a spacious  building,  and  might  be  called  handsome, 
had  it  not  been  finished  in  so  slovenly  a manner,  that, 
although  I saw  it  only  a year  after  it  was  opened,  the 
plaster  was  soiled,  and  in  some  places  broken  up;  and 
the  house  itself  looked  as  if  it  had  been  built  more  years 
than  it  had  seen  months.  In  front,  there  is  a large  por- 
tico, supported  by  ten  columns,  behind  which  are  the 
lounging-rooms  for  the  guests;  and  in  summer, the  shade 
of  the  portico  renders  it  both  a tempting  and  agreeable  re- 
sort. The  proprietors  were  very  attentive  ; and  one  of 
them,  agood-looking  gentlemanly  man,  about  thirty  years 
old,  was  so  much  more  smartly  and  gayly  dressed  than 
any  of  the  company  (myself  included),  that  I thought 
he  must  be  a Frenchman  from  New  Orleans,  and  thus 
inquired  his  name  and  occupation. 

No  one  who  has  visited  only  the  Atlantic  cities  can  be- 
lieve in  the  social  republicanism  of  America.  I think  I 
have  before  noted  in  this  journal,  that  it  does  not  exist 
there  : distinctions  of  wealth  and  family,  and  those,  too, 
well  defined  and  strongly  marked,  have  already  appeared, 
accompanied  by  a criterion  apparently  trifling,  but,  in 
my  opinion,  bearing  strong  evidence,  namely,  “coals  of 
of  arms,”  and  other  heraldic  anti-republican  signs,  which 
are  daily  gaining  ground.  At  present,  the  West  presents 
a much  truer  picture  of  republicanism,  because  the 
equality  existing  elsewhere  in  theory,  exists  here  in  fart  : 
nor  did  I see  one  individual  (for  instance)  in  Louisville 


REPUBLICAN  INCONGRUITY. 


157 


having  more  the  appearance  of  a gentleman  than  the 
ho teh keeper  before  mentioned.  In  this  respect,  he  doubt- 
less has  great  advantages  over  those  who  follow  a similar 
avocaiion  in  Britain. 

But  mark  here  the  incongruity  of  habit  and  prejudice. 
The  Louisville  tavern-keeper,  who  is  called , and  is,  as 
much  of  a gentleman  as  any  of  his  guests,  wails  upon 
them  at  the  bar,  in  mixing  various  beverages,  and  at  din- 
ner when  he  carves  standing,  and  frequently  hands  a 
plate,  or  performs  some  similar  trifling  service;  while 
the  American  “operative”  lad,  will  not  accept,  any  place 
as  a personal  attendant — would  feel  himself  degraded  by- 
brushing  a coat,  or  washing  a tea-cup,  or  tea-spoon, 
or  acting  in  what  he  'would  term  a “ menial”  capacity. 
On  the  other  hand,  John  Bull,  in  the  lower  class,  seeks 
with  avidity  the  comforts  of  “domestic”  life,  in  the  suc- 
cessive grades  of  stable-boy,  groom,  and  coachman,  or 
house-boy,  footman,  ai  d butler  ; while  the  aristocratic 
hotel-keeper  in  London,  or  one  who  wishes  to  move  in 
second-rate  society,  does  not  permit  the  association  of  his 
name  with  the  hotel,  would  as  st  on  walk  over  hot  iron 
as  attend  the  public  table,  or  mix  brandy-toddy,  and  is 
only  known  as  a respectable  gentleman  driving  his  gig 
to  and  from  his  Hampstead  villa,  or  as  a smart  and  con- 
stant attendant  at  Taitersall’s,  or  enjoying  his  great  incog, 
at  some  fashionable  watering-place.  There  are  many 
exceptions  to  this  latter  remark  (and  I think  these  hotels 
the  most  agreeable,  either  in  town  or  country,  where  the 
master  of  the  house  superintends  in  person);  but  there 
are  cases  enough  to  mark  the  contrast  of  character  in 
reference  to  which  [ made  the  observation  : for  instance, 
how  many  of  the  ladies  who  have  lived  weeks  and  months 
at  the  Clarenden  Hotel  in  London  have  seen  the  owner! 
how  many  know  his  name?  and  how  many  are  aware 
that  he  is  proprietor  of  several  other  establishments,  the 
guests  in  which  knowr  as  much  of  him  as  themselves? 
Few  could  answer  affirmatively. 

I went  out  to  the  race-course,  as  the  spring  race-meet- 
ing was  going  on,  and  saw  one  or  two  heats  run  in  very 
good  time.  There  was  but  a small  attendance,  eiiher 
of  beauty  or  fashion,  and  I did  not  stay  long  enough  to 
Vol.  I.— O 


15S 


BEAUTIFUL  SCENERY. 


avail  myself  of  the  opportunity  which  such  a scene  of- 
fers, for  making  observations  on  the  more  rough  and  un- 
polished portion  of  society  ; indeed,  the  swearing  of  some 
of  the  lower  orders  in  the  West,  especially  among  the 
horse-trade! s and  gamblers,  would  shock  ears  accustom- 
ed to  the  language  of  Billingsgate  or  a London  gin-shop, 
so  full  is  it  of  blasphemy  ; and  uttered  in  a deliberate 
and  determinate  tone,  such  as  to  induce  the  belief  that 
the  speaker  really  wishes  the  fulfilment  of  the  curses 
which  he  imprecates.  I have  heard  the  vulgar  oaths  of 
many  countries,  as  the  French,  the  English,  the  Irish, 
and  Scotch,  (which  three  last  have  different  safety-valves 
of  wrath),  the  Dutch,  the  German,  the  Italian,  and  the 
Portuguese  : of  course,  they  are  all  vulgar,  all  more  or 
less  blasphemous  and  disgusting  to  the  ear  ; but  I never 
heard  them  so  offensive,  or  so  slowly  and  deliberately 
uttered,  as  in  the  mouths  of  the  western  and  south- 
western Americans.  It  is  but  justice  to  the  United. 
States  to  say,  that  this  is  a vice  not  generally  prevalent, 
and  is  held  much  in  the  same  estimation  there  as  it  is  in 
Britain. 

Louisville  is  an  active  and  thriving  town  ; but,  like  all 
the  others  in  the  West,  wretchedly  lighted  and  paved  at 
present.  Jtis  necessary  to  mark  these  two  words,  as  in 
this  most  wonderful  portion  of  this  wonderful  continent, 
observations  of  a condemnatory  nature  are  not  likely  to 
be  true  for  more  than  twelve  months.  After  remaining 
there  a day,  during  which  I was  still  labouring  to  throw 
off  the  yoke  of  my  cholera  oppressor,  I staited  for  Lex- 
ington, in  Kentucky,  to  see  a portion  of  that  fine  state,  and 
to  pay  a visit  to  its  brightest  ornament,  Mr.  Clay,  to 
whose  eloquence  and  statesman-like  qualities  I have  in 
a former  chapter  referred. 

The  scenery  between  Louisville  and  Lexington  is  un- 
dulating, rich,  and  varied,  and  I could  not  have  seen  it  at 
a more  favourable  season  than  this,  when  the  thick- 
pressed  ranks  of  rye  were  waving  in  every  direction,  the 
young  corn  was  just  sprouting,  and  the  clover  in  full  and 
luxurious  bloom  ; the  woods,  also,  were  adorned  by  a 
variety  of  trees  which  I had  not  before  noticed,  as  the 


BEAUTIFUL  SCENERY. 


159 


coffee-tree*  and  others,  too  numerous  to  mention.  One 
thing  alone  was  wanting  to  my  enjoyment  of  the  scene, 
that  one  was  health  ! without  which  a terrestrial  paradise 
would  be  a desert.  I had  not  been  able  to  shake  off  my 
pertinacious  choleric  enemy,  and  suffered  much  from  his 
repeated  attacks;  however,  despite  the  effects  thereby 
induced  upon  my  spirits,  when  the  bright  moon  arose, 
and  tipt  with  silver  the  light  and  graceful  twigs  of  black- 
walnut  and  locust-trees,  and  the  faint  breeze  waved  their 
tresses  in  relief  against  the  dark  masses  of  oak,  and 
other  impenetrable  shades  which  resisted  her  beams,  it 
was  impossible  not  to  feel,  admire,  and  even  enjoy  the 
peaceful  beauty  of  the  scene.  At  least,  I was  not  press- 
ed in  regard  to  time,  for  the  stage  being  full,  I had  hired 
a sorry  horse  and  gig,  from  which  I was  fain  to  content 
myself  with  extracting  four  miles  an  hour;  and  that,  too, 
with  considerable  expenditure  of  exertion  and  whipcord. 

On  the  following  morning,  which  was  Sunday,  I found 
nrvself  rather  belter,  but  still  weak  and  in  pain  from  the 
evils  which  follow  in  the  train  of  cholera ; I went,  how- 
ever, to  the  Presbyterian  church  (Frankfurt),  where  I 
heard  a curious  sermon,  contending,  from  the  analogy 
of  nature  to  numerous  texts  in  Scripture,  that  there  is 
but  one  way  in  which  man  can  be  saved,  and  but  one 
right,  and  saving  faith  among  the  various  sects  of  Chris- 
tianity. The  argument  was  sometimes  well  supported,; 
but  the  discourse  appeared  to  me  to  fall  into  an  error 
very  common  to  such  subjects,  namely,  to  prove  too  much. 

J arrived  on  Monday  evening  at  Lexington,  much  im- 
proved in  health.  This  is  a neat,  pleasant  town,  contain- 
ing a considerable  number  of  locust-trees,  and  small 
gardens,  which  give  it  a cheerful  appearance,  while 
they  afford  the  occasional  luxury  of  shade. 

Mr.  Clay’s  residence  is  about  a mile  from  the  town, 
situated  in  a pretty  woodland  scene,  somewhat  resem- 
bling an  English  park.  His  son-in-law,  Mr.  E , 

lives  about  half  a mile  nearer  to  the  town,  on  a plea- 
sant farm  called  Woodlands.  At  the  house  of  this  gen- 

* More  commonly  known  as  the  Bonduc.  In  Botany,  Guilandina 
iunca. 


160 


ARRIVAL  AT  LEXINGTON. 


tlemen,  I was  agreeably  surprised  at  meeting  Miss  Mar- 
tineau,  who  had  been  there  on  a visit  during  the  last, 
fortnight.  This  lady’s  writings  are  too  well  known  to 
require  any  comment  upon  them  here.  I differ  from 
many  of  her  opini<  ns,  but  nobody  can  deny  her  pos- 
session of  great  talent,  or  refuse  her  the  merit  of  writing 
in  a clear,  consise,  and  elegant  style  : moreover,  her 
conversation  is  agreeable,  lively,  and  varied  ; displaying 
a mind  both  strong  and  original,  a judgment  very  deci- 
sive, though  not  without  prejudice,  and  a quickness  of 
observation  and  comparison,  that  render  her  an  enter- 
taining as  well  as  an  instruciive  talker. 

In  company  with  this  pleasant  party  I went  to  see  a 
farm,  about  nine  miles  from  Lexington,  belonging  to 
General  Shelby.  This  gentleman  has  the  name  of  being 
one  of  the  best  cattle-breeding  farmers  in  Kentucky; 
and  he  certainly  did  show  us  a large  and  most  excellent 
stock  both  of  cattle  and  mules.  The  former  are  mostly 
crossed,  more  or  less  nearly,  from  the  Durham  breed  ; one 
lot,  of  three  years  old,  was  in  prime  order,  and  wmuld 
have  extracted  a nod  of  app  obation  from  a Lincolnshire 
grazier.  They  were  probably  worih  here  about  seventy 
dollars,  or  fourteen  pounds  a-head.  Mr.  Shelby  told  me  ’ 
that  last  year  he  sold  a lot  of  fifty,  averaging  twelve 
hundred  weight  each  ! The  mules  are  becoming  the 
most  lucrative  farm  stock  in  this  state;  they  are  found 
to  be  so  much  more  serviceable  and  tough  than  horses, 
especially  on  plantations  worked  by  slaves,  where  they 
are  apt  to  be  ill-fed  and  ill-attended  to  ; a good  mule  sells 
here  for  a hundred  and  fifty  dollars,  which  is  a very  high 
price  for  a horse.  As  an  illustration,  I will  merely 

mention  one  instance,  given  to  me  by  Mr.  E ■.  He 

bought  a fine  female  ass,  two  years  ago  (in  foal),  for  one 
hundred  dollars;  she  produced  a fine  male,  which  he 
sold  for  four  hundred  dollars;  she  produced  a foal  again 
this  spring,  for  which  he  has  refused  three  hundred  dol- 
lars ; and  he  sold  the  dam  herself  lately  for  six  hundred 
dollars;  so,  from  this  instance  there  was  a clear  gain  of 
twelve  hundred  dollars  from  one  ass  in  two  years  ! Mr. 
Shelby  has  a great  number  of  mules  ; he  sold  last  year 
3000  dollars’  worth  of  them.  His  pastures  are  on  a fine 


LEXINGTON, 


161 


virgin  soil,  well  shaded  by  noble  forest  timber,  with  here 
and  there  an  open  glade  (something  like  an  English 
park).  It  is  scarcely  creditable,  but  undoubtedly  true, 
as  I have  it  from  the  lips  of  these  gemlemen  in  company, 
that  this  beautiful  farm  of  two  thousand  acres,  together 
with  another  in  the  neighbourhood  (of  eighteen  hundred 

acres),  was  bought  by  Mr.  S ’s  father  for  an  old  rifle  l! 

— at  least,  for  a rifle , whether  old  or  new  I know  not ! 
The  property  is  now  worth  at  least  sixty  dollars  an  acre 
(besides  the  houses,  &c.),  which,  according  to  Cocker,, 
would  give  a sum  of  45,000/.  sterling,  as  the  value  of 
an  estate  sold  only  fifty  years  since  for  a rifle  ! It  makes 
one  angry  to  see  or  hear  of  such  luck  happening  to  a 

fellow-worm  ; and  when  I looked  at  General  S , I 

almost  felt  that  I had  as  good  a right  to  the  farm  as  he 
had. 

Lexington  stands  in  a large,  elevated,  and  fertile  plain. 
There  is  scarcely  a hill  to  be  seen  in  the  neighbourhood  ; 
but  an  endless  succession  of  foliage,  and  corn  of  every 
description.  On  this  account  it  is  called  the  garden  of 
Kentucky,  and  its  inhabitants  make  very  heavy  demands 
upon  the  admiration  of  the  visiter.  For  myself,  I never 
could  enjoy  orapj  rjeiate  the  beauty  of  a complete  level 
in  any  part  of  the  w'orld,  and,  however  diversified  by 
gardens,  villas,  woods,  and  crops,  mv  eye  always  looks 
for  water  and  for  hills,  without  which  no  scenery  can 
have  any  charm  for  me.  This  may  be  very  wrong,  but 
I cannot  help  it ; neither  can  I participate  in  the  raptures 
which  some  express  when  they  get  upon  the  top  of  a 
church,  and  boast  of  being  able  to  see  on  every  side  a 
boundless  plain,  terminating  only  in  the  horizon. 

There  are  several  excellent  institutions  in  l.exington  : 
a theological  seminary,  one  of  the  professors  of  which 
is  a young  English  clergyman  (minister,  also,  of  the 
episcopal  church  here) ; he  seems  a very  interesting 
young  man  ; his  branch  of  instruction  is  chiefly  in  the 
Eastern  languages;  and  he  assured  me  that  he  had  seve- 
ral students  familiar  with  the  Hebrew,  Syriac,  and  Chal- 
dee. He  says,  that  the  capacity  of  the  young  men  in 
this  part  of  the  world  is  very  good,  and  that  there  are 
fewer  book-dunces  than  he  remembers  at  schools  in  the 

O* 


162 


ITS  INSTITUTIONS. 


old  country ; but  the  generality  of  them  are  very  badly 
grounded  in  the  classics.  The  process  of  mental  culti- 
vation in  America  is  somewhat  analogous  to  their  agri- 
cultural system  ; in  both  cases  they  look  too  extensively 
to  the  quantity  of  produce  immediately  to  be  obtained, 
and  pay  too  little  attention  to  the  culture  and  improve- 
ment of  the  soil.  It  has  been  often  remarked,  that  an 
American  course  of  collegiate  education,  extends  over  a 
field  that  would  occupy  a man  of  good  abilities  forty 
years  to  master;  but  a student  is  supposed  to  have  tra- 
velled over  it  in  three  or  four  years  : and  he  may  have 
travelled  over  it;  but  it  is  with  the  same  advantage  as 
some  of  our  fashionable  London  loungers  travel  over 
Switzerland  and  Italy,  as  fast  as  well-paid  postilions 
and  a light  brilchka  can  take  them — they  have  seen 
Mount  Blanc,  and  been  over  the  Simplon  ; they  have 
visited  St.  Peter’s  and  the  Coliseum  ; have  sat  in  a gon- 
dola and  seen  the  Bridge  of  Sighs  ; have  eaten  ice  and 
macaroni  in  view  of  the  Bay  of  Naples  ; and  have  yawn- 
ed admiration  before  the  Apollo,  the  Venus,  and  the  Car- 
toons \ Then  they  return— travellers  ! 

With  equal  advantage  is  a youth  educated  on  the  en- 
cyclopaedia system,  so  pernicious  to  industry  or  to  ster- 
ling knowledge  and  acquirement.  The  young  men  who 
acquire  a taste  for  reading  is  singularly  small  in  Ameri- 
ca. They  will  tell  a stranger  who  makes  this  observation, 
that  they  are  tod-busy,  that  they  are  engaged  in  mercan- 
tile and  othe;,y  rdrs.  This,  in  fact  (though  a plausible 
one,)  is  only  an  excuse ; they  have  time  enough  to  give 
to  the  theatre,  the  dance,' the  race-course,  the  trotting- 
match,  the  billiard-table,  the  tavern-bar,  &c.,  but  to  find 
a young  man,  having  left  college  five  years,  who  could 
read  Pindar  .and  Euripides,  or  even  Horace  and  Juvenal, 
for  pleasure,  would  be  no  easy  task — at  least  among  those 
whom  I have  seen  at  New  York  and  the  other  cities  in 
the  United  States. 

To  return  from  this  digression  to  Lexington.  There 
is  a college  here  also,  which  does  not  seem  to  be  in  a 
very  flourishing  state;  but  a professor  is  expected  soon 
from  New  England,  who  is  to  establish  its  reputation 
for  literature  and  discipline.  There  is  also  an  orphan 


LUNATIC  ASYLUM. 


263 


asylum,  and  one  for  lunatics  ; which  latter,  like  all  simi- 
lar institutions  in  America,  is  conducted  with  regularity 
and  cleanliness,  as  well  as  with  a praiseworthy  attention 
to  all  the  comforts  of  which* the  unfortunate  inmates  are 
capable.  In  one  respect  it  differs  from  any  that  i have 
visited  elsewhere,  that  I was  admitted  to  see  the  female 
part  of  the  establishment.  I did  not  stay  there  longrfor 
I cannot  bear  to  see  that  lovely  temple  in  ruins.  Some 
cases,  indeed,  of  monomania  and  aberration  of  mind  I 
could  contemplate  with  curiosity  and  interest;  but  wo- 
man in  the  lowest  state  of  mental  or  moral  degradation, 
is  a spectacle  not  to  be  looked  upon  without  painful  com- 
miseration. 

Among  the  men  was  a presbyterian  clergyman,  a na- 
tive of  Ireland.  He  was  still  so  wedded  to  his  profes 
sional  dignity,  that  he  would  not  put  on  a shirt  unless  it 
was  marked  “ the  reverend.”  His  only  companion  was 
an  old  copy  of  Virgil.  He  said,  he  only  read  the  first 
six  books  of  the  Aineid.  I asked  him  to  read  me  twenty 
lines  ; and,  under  pretence  of  not  understanding  them, 
prevailed  upon  him  to  construe  them,  which  he  did  with 
great  fluency,  without  hesitation  or  mistake. 

I went  to  two  evening  pariies  ; and  although  a person 
disposed  to  quiz  might  have  found  exercise  for  his  child- 
ish satire,  1 saw  nothing  that  would  not  meet  a parallel 
in  the  society  of  the  larger  provincial  towns  in  Britain, 
and  I do  not  therefore  feel  inclined  to  take  upon  myself 
the  invidious  office. 

At  the  table  of  Mr.  Clay  I met  a young  gentleman 

from  Germany,  of  the  name  of  V , on  his  travels, 

and  heard  with  much  pleasure,  that  he  proposed  going  to 
St.  Louis,  which  was  also  my  own  destination.  I went 
with  him  to  a musical  soiree,  at  the  house  of  a German, 
who  had  been  many  years  in  this  country,  and  was  com- 
mander-in-chief  of  all  the  musical  department  in  Lexing- 
ton, from  the  church-organ  down  to  the  boarding-school 
“ solfeggio.”  He  was  extremely  polite  ; and  the  evening 
passed  off  rather  formally,  but  tolerably  well.  When 
the  ladies  retired,  I also  was  about  to  leave  the  house, 

as  was  Mr.  V ; but  he  pressed  us  to  remain  and 

take  one  stirrup-cup  in  the  old  German  fashion,  of  punch 


364 


A SERENADE. 


made  from  the  true  Rhenish.  We  did  so.  We  began 
to  sing  German  songs.  Each  glass  of  punch  was  suc- 
ceeded by  some  toast  or  chorus  from  the  same  country, 
and  at  length  the  slumbering  national  ardour  of  our  host 
was  aroused;  the  smooth,  quiet  manner  of  the  Ameri- 
can music-master  was  laid  aside,  as,  with  clenched  hand 
and  glowing  cheek,  he  gave  us  some  of  the  spirit-stirring 
lays  of  Schiller  and  of  the  heroic  Korner. 

0 ye  temperance  societies  ! how  many  gallons  of  your 
inanimate  slops  might  be  consumed  before  ye  could  in- 
spire the  enthusiasm,  or  invoke  the  recollections  wrhich 
our  Rhenish  bowl  awakened,  as  its  noble  juice  brought 
the  long  estranged  son  of  Germany  back  to  the  Rhine, 
and  its  thousand  legends  of  love,  romance,  and  glory  ! 

We  separated  about  two  in  the  morning,  and  on  our 

way  homeward,  V and  J (agreeably  to  a little  pre- 

engaged  plan  of  his  with  some  of  the  inmates)  betook 
ourselves  to  a large  boarding-house,  surrounded  by  a 
thick  grove  of  trees,  wherein  dwelt  a considerable  num- 
ber of  young  ladies,  whom  we  had  met  at  the  preceding 
parties,  and  whom  we  now  proposed  to  serenade.  Inde- 
pendently of  a good  natural  voice,  V was  an  adept 

in  the  Tyrolese  style  of  singing,  or  ugling,  which  I was 
sure  that  the  fair  Kentucuians  would  hear  with  surprise 
and  pleasure.  Accordingly  we  placed  ourselves  under 
the  windows,  and  commenced  our  sleep-murdering  at- 
tack by  several  German,  Tyrolese,  and  Scotch  songs;: 
we  could  distinctly  perceive  various  pairs  of  eyes  peer- 
ing through  the  Venetian  blinds,  and  went  away  sure  of 
having  awakened  them,  and  trusting  not  to  have  incurred 
their  displeasure.  We  left  Lexington  early  next  morn- 
ing ; but  before  our  departure  we  heard  that  they  were 
by  no  means  wrath  at  our  infraction  of  their  rest ; they 
were  much  pleased  with  the  Tyrolese  ugling,  but  would 
not  believe  that  it  was  produced  by  the  human  voice 
unassisted  by  an  instrument. 

1 was  very  sorry  to  leave  Mr.  Clay  and  the  interesting 
society  which  I met  in  his  son-in-law’s  house.  Mr.. 
Clay  himself  is  very  frank  and  agreeable  in  conversation, 
especially  in  regard  to  politics;  he  is  singularly  mild  and 
candid  in  talking  over  the  persons  and  opinions  of  vari- 


PROSPERITY  OF  LOUISVILLE. 


165 


ous  parties  in  the  United  States,  most  opposed  to  himself ; 
but  the  place  10  see  him  in  his  glory  is  certainly  the 
senate — there  he  is  powerful  and  commanding  in  his 
eloquence  : he  has  not  cultivated  those  branches  of  po- 
lite literature  for  which  Mr.  Webster  and  several  other 
senators  are  remarkable  in  private  life. 

We  returned  to  Louisville,, and  took  the  first  steam- 
boat bound  for  St.  Louis,  which  is  about  six  hundred 
miles  north-west  by  water  : when  we  embarked,  there 
were  about  sixteen  steam-boats,  all  of  a large  class,  lying 
at  the  wharves  ; indeed,  this  town  is  scarcely  inferior  to 
Cincinnati  in  the  wonderful  rapidity  of  its  improvements. 
I had  a long  conversation  with  an  elderly  gentleman, 
who  owns  a considerable  number  of  houses  and  lots  of 
land,  which  he  sells  off  for  the  erection  of  buildings  : 
according  to  his  account,  almost  all  the  money  which  he 
had  thus  invested  leturned  him  about  twenty  per  cent.  ; 
the  Louisville  Savings’  Hank  gives  eight  per  cent,  on 
deposits  ; and  he  assured  me  that  any  capitalist  of  good 
judgment  might  invest  money  upon'  excellent  security  at 
twelve  or  fourteen  per  cent.  This  may  be  perfecily  true 
at  the  present  date,  but  it  by  no  means  follows  that  such 
a state  of  things  should  be  durable. 

The  passage  down  the  Ohio  from  this  town  to  the 
Mississippi  is,  if  possible,  more  beautiful  than  above  ; 
the  bluffs  are  bolder,  the  banks  higher,  and  the  stream 
is  more  enlarged  and  magnificent,  extending  to  a breadth 
of  a mile  and  a half.  We  lav  to,  under  a high  project- 
ing rock,  to  visit  a cave,  celebrated  as  having  been  the 
refuge  of  a desperate  band  of  robbers  who  infested  this 
part  of  the  country  some  years  ago,  led  by  a man  named 
Mason,  for  whose  head  the  legislature  of  Illinois  (or  one 
of  the  neighbouring  states)  offered  a reward  of  1000  dol- 
lars. He  was  betrayed  and  shot  by  two  of  his  asso- 
ciates. The  cavern  is  about  forty  feet  deep,  twenty-five 
wide,  and  fifteen  high  ; but  the  most  extraordinary  part 
of  it  is  a natural  aperture  in  the  centre  of  the  roof,  large 
enough  to  admit  one  man  at  a time,  and  opening  upon 
another  chamber  of  similar  dimensions  to  the  one  below. 
The  current  report  of  the  country  is,  that  when  this  den 
of  thieves  was  discovered  and  broken  up,  it  contained 


166 


THE  “ FATHER  OF  WATERS.” 


great  quantities  of  gold,  silver,  silks,  stuffs,  and  false 
money,  with  an  apparatus  for  coining  it. 

It  was  midn'ighi  when  we  joined  the  “ Father  of  Wa- 
ters,” so  I rose  with  the  earliest  dawn  to  pay  him  my 
homage.  I cannot  deny  that  my  first  feeling  was  disap- 
pointment; he  is  riot  much  broader  than  the  lower  part 
of  the  < >hio,  while  his  stream  is  extremely  muddy,  and 
his  banks  low  and  tame ; it  is  only  when  you  ascend 
the  mighty  current  for  fifty  or  a hundred  miles,  and  use 
the  eye  of  the  imagination  as  well  as  that  of  nature,  that 
you  begin  to  understand  all  his  might  and  majesty.  You 
see  him  fertilizing  a boundless  valley,  bearing  along  in 
his  course  the  trophies  of  his  thousand  victories  over  the 
shattered  iorest — here  carrying  away  large  masses  of  soil 
with  all  their  growth,  and  there  forming  islands,  destin- 
ed, at  some  future  period,  to  be  the  residence  of  man; 
as  you  approach  Saint  Louis,  these  islands  become  more 
frequent — the  banks  more  lofty  and  picturesque  ; and 
while  indulging  in  this  prospect,  it  is  then  time  for  reflec- 
tion to  suggest  that  the  current  before  }mu  has  flowed 
through  two  or  three  thousand  miles,  and  has  yet  to  travel 
one  thousand  three  hundred  more  before  reaching  its 
ocean  destination. 

A stranger,  however,  cannot  endure  the  dirty  and  mud- 
dy appearance  of  the  water,  although  he  is  told  (and  with 
truth  that,  when  placed  in  a barrel  or  any  other  vessel, 
and  allowed  to  settle,  it  purifies  very  rapidly,  and  becomes 
excellent  drinking  water,  leaving  a sediment  of  extreme 
depth  and  density. 

All  travellers  in  this  part  of  the  world  have  agreed, 
that  the  Missouri  has  been  ill-used  in  having  its  name 
merged,  after  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi;  whereas 
it  is  the  broader,  the  deeper,  the  longer,  and,  in  every 
respect,  the  finer  river  of  the  two:  the  cause  of  this 
apparent  incongruity  was  explained  to  me  in  a manner 
equally  simple  and  satisfactory.  When  the  French  first 
visited  this  great  valley,  they  came  from  Canada,  and 
descended  the  Mississippi  ; and  seeing  another  river  fall 
into  it  at  right-angles,  near  Saint  Louis,  they  naturally 
viewed  it  as  tributary  to  the  mighty  stream  whose  course 
they  followed,  and  whose  name  they  preserved ; forget- 


ST.  LOUIS. 


167 


ting  that,  in  the  natural,  as  well  as  in  the  political  world, 
the  tributary  may  often  possess  more  power  than  he  to 
whom  he  is  supposed  to  owe  fealty. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


Situation  of  St.  Louis. — The  Catholic  new  Church. — General  Clarke.— 
Embark  for  FoTt^Leavenworth. — Requisites  for  a Tour  on  the  Prai- 
rie.— The  Missouri — Rapidity  of  its  Stream. — Islands. — Fatal  Case 
of  Cholera. — Changeful  Climate. — Floating  Obstructions. — Settle- 
ments on  the  Missouri. — Scarcity  of  Game. — Gigantic  Trees. — Fer- 
tility of  the  Soil — Precarious  Navigation — Magnificent  Thunder- 
storm.— State  of  Health  on  board  the  Steam-boat. — Tedious  Progress. 
Mouth  of  Osage  River — Indian  Painting. — Town  of  Booneville.— 
Price  of  Provisions. — Narrow  Escape. — Village  of  Liberty. — Outfit 
for  the  Prairie. — A small  Prairie. — Swampy  Wood.  — Reception  at 
Fort  Leavenworth- —Prospect  from  the  Heights  in  its  Neighbourhood. 
— Indian  Tribes  — Commemoration  of  the  4th  of  July. — Pawnee 
Visiters. — Indian  Chorus  — Picturesque  Scene. — Arrangements  to 
accompany  the  Pawnees  to  their  Nation. 

The  situation  of  St.  Louis  is  admirably  adapted  for  a 
great  inland  commercial  city,  as  it  is  built  upon  a gradual 
slope  rising  from  the  river.  Behind  it  are  high  and  airy 
plains,  which  admit^of  its  being  extended  advantageously 
in  any  direction.  It  is  already  the  emporium  of  trade  be- 
yond the  Mississippi,  and  the  nucleus  of  all  the  traffic 
with  the  Indians  ; and  in  proportion  as  the  resources  of  the 
vast  western  region  are  developed,  St.  Louis  will  proba- 
bly increase  in  wealth  and  population.  The  streets  are 
narrow,  ill-paved,  and  ill-lighted  : and  there  are  hut  few 
buildings  claiming  the  traveller’s  attention,  either  by  their 
magnitude  or  beauty. 

I was  told  that  the  Catholic  new  church  deserved  all 
admiration  ; but  I could  by  no  means  afford  it  mine,  as 
it  is  a very  large  building,  with  a sort  of  Grecian  portico, 
surmounted  by  a kind  of  steeple,  much  too  diminutive 
in  its  proportions,  and  surrounded  by  sundry  ornaments, 
which  I should  have  been  quite  unable  to  describe,  had 
not  my  German  companion  called  out  upon  seeing  them, 
“ Gott  bewahr,  sie  sehen  gerade  wie  bettpfeiler  aus.” 
“ By ! they  look  exactly  like  bedposts  !”  I did  not. 


168 


GENERAL  CLARKE. 


on  this  occasion,  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  inte- 
rior of  the  building. 

I wished  to  stay  a short  time  at  St.  Louis,  being  de- 
sirous to  see  its  society,  and  having  just  made  the  ac- 
quaintance of  the  veteran  General  ( larke,  whose  tra- 
vels to  the  Rocky  Mountains  are  well  known  to  all 
general  readers,  and  who  had  probably  gained  more 
laurels  than  any  man  living  in  contests  with  the  buffalo, 
the  grisly  bear,  and  the  wild  Indian.  He  was,  during 
my  visit  to  St.  Louis,  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs 
for  the  United  States,  and  was  held  in  high  respect  and 
estimation  by  the  various  tribes  composing  that  hetero- 
geneous race.*  My  plans  were,  however,  frustrated; 
for,  hearing  that  a steamer  was  to  start  in  a few  hours 
for  the  Upper  Missouri,  and  that  I might  not  get  another 
similar  opportunity,  I thought  it  advisable  to  seize  it,  and 
accordingly  embarked  on  board  the  steam-boat  Han- 
cock, bound  for  Fort  Leavenworth. 

I employed  the  few  hours  which  intervened  in  provid- 
ing myself  with  some  of  the  most  obvious  requisites 
for  a lour  on  the  prairie  ; such  as  saddles,  blankets,  &c., 
and  a few  trifling  presents  for  the  Indians  whom  I migh 
wish  to  propitiate.  Taking  with  me  as  little  luggage  as 
possible  in  saddle-bags,  I set  forth  upon  a tour  of  which 
it  was  impossible  for  me  to  fix  the  locality  or  extent  ; 
but  having  for  its  object  the  manners  and  habits  of  the 
extreme  West,  and  of  the  tribes  beyond  the  American 
settlements. 

It  was  with  extreme  regret,  that  I learned  we  must 
pass  the  confluence  of  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi  in 
the  night,  as  I wished  to  observe  the  different  colours  of 
their  respective  streams,  which  are  as  remarkably  dis- 
tinct as  those  of  the  Rhine  and  its  tributary  Moselle. 
At  daybreak  we  were  already  in  the  Missouri,  which 
appeared  almost  as  large,  as  muddy,  and  as  rapid  as  1 he 
river  below  St.  Louis.  The  banks  are  well-wooded  and 

* The  veteran  has  departed  this  life  since  the  above  remarks  were 
written.  By  most  of  the  tribes  on  the  Missouri  he  was  called  their 
“Father,”  or  “ Sandy-haired  Father;”  as  the  President  of  the  United 
States  is,  in  all  their  talks  or  treaties,  styled  their  “Great,  or  Grand, 
Father.”  1839. 


V 


THE  MISSOURI. 


169 


undulating ; and  in  this  respect  I was  agreeably  disap- 
pointed, as  I had  been  led  to  believe  that  we  were  to  pass 
merely  through  a flat  prairie  country.  The  most  re- 
markable feature  in  this  mighty  stream  is  its  rapidity,* 
and  the  huge  masses  of  timber  thus  hurried  on  to  the 
ocean.  Large  trees  are  seen  in  every  direction,  and  in 
every  state,  from  the  dangerous  “ snag,”  with  his  head 
just  rippling  the  water  which  hides  him,  to  the  monarch 
of  the  forest,  with  all  his  “ blushing  honours  thick  upon 
him.”  Here  and  there  vast  masses  of  wood  are  collect- 
ed, bearing  almost  the  appearance  of  timber  seasoning 
in  harbour;  and  in  other  places  they  are  already  so 
consolidated  with  settled  mud,  that  the  elements  of  vege* 
tation  begin  to  appear;  and  the  prophetic  observer  sees 
before  him  an  island  destined  one  day  to  be,  perhaps, 
both  populous  and  fertile. 

There  is  nothing  that  conveys  a better  idea  of  the 
magnitude  and  power  of  this  noble  river,  than  the  islands 
which  he  has  formed  in  his  descent ; one  of  those  we 
passed  on  the  first  day,  was  eight  miles  long  and  one 
mile  broad,  covered  with  timber,  and  the  few  places 
cultivated  giving  already  ample  evidence  of  the  richness 
of  the  alluvium. 

We  were  rendered  somewhat  uneasy  by  the  state  of 
health  on  board,  several  cases  of  cholera  having  occur- 
red, one  of  which  terminated  fatally.  The  sufferer  was 
buried  in  a retired  and  beautiful  forest  spot,  where  no 
surviving  friends  or  relatives  will  visit  his  tomb,  which  is 
in  one  of  the  loveliest  recesses  of  a temple  now  dedica- 
ted to  Silence  and  Solitude  ! It  will  not  be  long,  how- 
ever, ere  it  echoes  to  the  sound  of  the  axe,  and  becomes, 
perhaps,  a busy  mart  of  traffic,  or  a thriving  farm. 


* It  is  difficult  for  a mere  passing  traveller  to  form  an  estimate  of  the 
speed  of  the  stream  on  which  he  is  sailing  ; it  requires  patient  obser* 
vation  and  experiment.  As  I had  neither  time  nor  means  for  doing  it 
accurately,  it  may  be  as  well  to  repeat  here,  that,  according  to  Lieute- 
nant Clark  and  Major  Long,  the  average  rapidity  of  the  Missouri  is 
about  a fathom  per  second  (very  little  more  than  four  miles  per  hour) ; 
but  in  running  over  sand  bars  and  other  impediments,  it  often  doubles 
that  rapidity  : its  mean  descent  is  somewhat  less  than  five  inches  to  the 
mile,  which  is  much  the  same  as  that  of  the  Amazon  and  Ganges,  a6- 
cording  to  Major  Rennell. 

VoL.  I.— P 


170 


the  choleha. 


The  disease  did  not  appear  at  first  in  its  most  viru- 
lent form,  and  we  entertained  great  hopes  that  the  de- 
stroyer would  not  long  hover  over  our  vessel,  as  we  were 
crowded  into  a small  cabin,  and  were  not  going  at  more 
than  twu  or  three  miles  an  hour,  owing  to  the  immense 
force  of  the  current.  I never  experienced  or  conceived 
such  changeful  or  unhealthy  weather.  On  the  20th  the 
heat  was  most  oppressive  ; we  sat  at  half  past  nine  p.  m. 
on  the  deck,  perspiring,  without  hat  or  coat,  and  could 
scarcely  bear  a sheet  on  the  bed.  On  the  22d  of  June 
the  cold  was  severe.  Most' of  the  passengers  wore  their 
great-coats,  and  added  two  blankets  and  a coverlet  to  their 
bedding;  we  kept,  moreover,  a good  fire  in  the  cabin 
stove ! This  change  occurred  in  about  two  hours  l 
Who  can  wonder  at  the  fevers,  agues,  and  bilious  dis- 
eases prevalent  in  such  a climate? 

We  were  delayed  by  the  usual  accidents  which  occur 
on  this  stream,  none  of  an  alarming  nature  ; but  the  pad- 
dle boxes  and  buckets  were  repeatedly  broken  by  the 
timber  which  they  necessarily  and  frequently  encoun- 
tered. The  quantity  of  these  floating  obstructions  was 
so  great,  that  it  was  impossible  to  keep  on  our  course  by 
nighi,  and  consequently  we  did  not  make  more  than  twenty 
or  thirty  miles  each  day  1 I derived  one  advantage  from 
the  frequent  stoppages  which  we  made,  in  the  opportu- 
nities thereby  afforded  of  making  excursions  into  the 
woods  bordering  upon  the  river. 

The  settlements  or  clearances  on  the  Missouri  are 
generally  very  unhealthy,  and  will,  probably,  remain  so 
for  some  years.  The  houses  of  the  settlers  are  almost 
universally  log  huts,  composed  of  two  separate  cabins, 
divided  by  an  open  space,  for  the  circulation  of  air  in 
summer,  but  both  covered  by  the  same  roof,  which  is,  of 
course,  composed  of  shingles. 

In  this  part  of  the  country  there  are  but  few  deer 
remaining,  as  the  settlements  are  so  numerous,  and 
every  settler  is  a hunter  ; besides  which,  the  season  was 
unpropitious  for  finding  game,  as  in  summer  they  only 
appear  in  the  morning  and  evening,  and  retire  to  the  thick 
brush  to  protect  them  from  the  heat  of  the  mid-day  sun. 
But  the  beauty  of  the  vegetable  world  is  unparalleled; 


GIGANTIC  TREES. 


17i 


ihe  trees  exceed  in  height  anything  that  I have  before 
observed,  and  their  variety  is  so  great  as  utterly  to  con- 
found so  unpractised  a botanist  as  myself.  As  regards 
magnitude,  the  cotton-wood  and  sycamore  appear  to  be 
monarchs  of  the  forest ; they  often  rear  their  enormous 
trunks  to  forty  or  fifty  feet,  with  little  diminution  of  bulk. 
I measured  one  at  about  five  feet  from  the  ground  ; it 
was  nineteen  feet  in  circumference  ; but  I have  no  rea- 
son to  believe  that  it  was  a remarkably  large  specimen.* 
These  lofty  trees  are  rendered  picturesque  and  graceful 
by  the  vines  which  twine  round  their  gigantic  limbs,  and 
hang  in  wavy  festoons,  making,  in  some  places,  natural 
arbours  of  impenetrable  shade  ; while  the  humbler 
brushwood  is  adorned  with  wild  roses  and  other  shrubs 
of  equal  and  rarer  beauty. 

A great  proportion  of  the  land  on  both  sides  of  the 
river  is  occupied,  and  varies  in  price  from  one  dollar  and 
a half  to  five  dollars  per  acre,  according  to  its  proximity 
to  the  rising  villages,  mills,  or  similar  advantages.  The 
depth  and  inexhaustible  fertility  of  the  soil  are  too  well 
known  to  require  comment ; whatever  terms  may  have 
been  used  in  describing  them  can  scarcely  be  exaggera- 
tions. 

It  cannot,  however,  be  denied  that  this  favoured  part 
of  the  country  is  liable  to  many  objections : the  naviga- 
tion of  the  Missouri  is  very  precarious  ; when  the  water 
is  high  the  stream  is  extremely  strong  and  rapid  ; be- 
sides which  it  carries  with  it  large  and  dangerous  drifts 
of  floating  timber;  when  low,  it  is  full  of  snags  and 
mud  bars;  the  navigation  is  impeded  in  the  winter  by 
the  ice  ; and  the  climate  is  variable  to  a degree  scarcely 
credible  in  Europe. 

There  was  a magnificent  thunder-storm  on  the  night 
of  the  24th,  about  one  o’clock.  I rose  from  my  bed  to 
enjoy  the  sight,  and  was  amply  repaid  for  the  loss  of  an 
hour’s  sleep ; the  whole  western  sky  was  illuminated 
by  broad  and  fitful  sheets  of  lightning,  so  bright  at  times 
as  to  light  up  the  mighty  river,  and  to  show  distinctly 


* I believe  this  tree,  which  I call  “ sycamore,”  is  Plantanus  occiden 
UUit.  > 


172 


THUNDERSTORM. 


the  bold  and  varying  features  of  its  banks  ; in  a moment 
again  all  was  black  and  still,  nighi  bad  thrown  her  mantle 
over  the  scene,  and  silence  resumed  her  empire  ; then 
the  thunder  muttered  from  its  distant  couch,  and  again 
the  brilliant  illumination  succeeded;  the  peals  grew 
louder  and  louder,  till  at  length  they  burst  and  rattled  so 
near  above  us,  that  I could  almost  believe  the  alarmed 
forest  trembled  beneath  their  wrath.  A torrent  of  rain 
closed  the  scene.  I retired  10  my  berth  deeply  impress- 
ed with  the  might  of  Him  whose  right  hand  launches 
and  checks  these  fiery  ministers  ! 

Gray  has  been  much  and  deservedly  praised  for  the 
stanza,  in  wltich  he  directs  our  attention  to  the  “ flowrets 
born  to  blusb  unseen  but  is  there  not  as  ample  a 
theme  for  meditation  in  the  parallel,  though  opposite 
picture,  of  the  unseen  wonders  of  the  wilderness,  the 
hurricane,  the  cataract,  the  whirlwind,  whose  mighty 
footsteps  I have  traced  in  the  primitive  forest,  where 
whole  acres  of  prostrate  timber  attest  the  power  that 
smote  them  ; some  broken  sheer  ihrough  the  middle, 
others  rearing  their  scathed  and  blackened  tops  ; some 
again  of  vast  size  bent  and  curved  like  willows,  and 
others  uprooted,  their  once  lofty  heads  buried  in  the 
mighty  stream  destined  at  no  distant  period  to  sweep 
them  down  to  ccean,  or  to  use  them  as  materials  in  the 
formation  of  islands,  which  it  is  his  yearly  pastime  to 
create  ? How  have  I longed  to  behold  but  for  once  this 
elemental  strife,  whose  desolating  effects  are  so  awful  l 

My  half  waking  half-sleeping  meditations  were  some- 
what disturbed  by  finding  myself,  at  five  o’clock,  soaked 
in  water,  owing  to  the  bad  construction  of  the  deck,  and 
I left  my  berth  under  some  apprehensions  of  rheumatic 
consequences. 

The  state  of  health  on  board  continued  most  distress- 
ing ; many  of  the  passengers  were  suffering  under  attacks 
of  cholera  in  various  forms  ; some  groaned  with  pain,  and 
some,  I believe,  w7ere  ill  from  mere  imagination  and 
terror  : besides  the  man  whom  we  had  buried  a day  or 
two  before,  twro  or  three  were  landed  in  a dying  state  ; 
one  of  whom  was  so  near  his  latter  end,  that  as  some 
difficulty  was  made  by  the  crew  about  carrying  him 


PAINTED  ROCKS. 


m 


from  the  landing-place  to  the  tavern,  two  hundred  yards 
off,  he  would  have  been  left  to  die  on  the  bank,  as  the 
poor  wretch  seemed  to  have^neither  friend  nor  acquaint- 
ance'^ assist  him,  had  not  a few  of  the  cabin  passen- 
gers carried  him  up  and  left  him  in  the  care  of  the 
tavern-keeper.  I was  one  of  this  sad  party,  and  I have 
little  doubt  that  in  less  than  an  hour  the  poor  sufferer 
had  closed  his  eyes  among  strangers,  far  from  the  affec- 
tionate attentions  with  which  love  and  kindred  are  wont 
to  soothe  the  anguish  of  a dying  bed  ! 

The  banks  of  the  river  continued  to  present  the  same 
variety  of  bluffs  and  rich  alluvial  bottoms,  and  the 
weather  the  same  change  of  cold,  heat,  wind,  and  rain  ; 
the  boat  was  the  slowest  and  the  most  ill-arranged  that  I 
had  yet  seen  in  America.  The  boilers  being  leaky,  and 
the  machinery  out  of  order,  caused  a constant  succes- 
sion of  delays  and  stoppages,  consequently  we  did  not 
make  more  than  thirty  miles  in  the  twenty-four  hours. 
On  the  25th  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Osage  river,  one 
of  the  great  tributaries  to  the  Missouri;  its  length  is 
about  one  thousand  miles,  and  I believe  the  lower  part 
of  its  course  is  through  a very  rich  and  heavily-timbered 
valley  : it  falls  into  the  great  river  about  one  hundred 
miles  above  St.  Louis. 

We  passed  also  some  fine  precipitous  rocks  on  which 
are  numerous  specimens  of  Indian  painting.  These 
consist  chiefly  of  representations  of  sirange  figures 
(ChimcercB  dirce),  buffaloes,  and  other  animals.  They 
were  originally  red,  but  time  and  the  weather  have*  so 
worn  out  the  colour,  that  they  were  not  distinguishable 
from  the  part  of  the  river  where  we  passed,  so  that  I 
was  obliged  to  take  the  word  of  the  passengers  and 
other  persons  well  acquainted  with  the  neighbourhood  ; 
moreover,  I believe,  they  are  the  same  a& those  mentioned 
in  the  travels  of  Lewis  and  Clarke,  by  the  name  of  the 
Great  Manitou  Rocks,  having  been  formerly  sacred  to 
the  Great  Spirit  among  ^he  tribes  who  inhabited  this 
district.* 

Among  the  towns  which  we  passed,  the  most  deserv- 

* See  Wordsworth’s  Sonnet  to  Duddon,  No.  xvi, 

P* 


174 


EOONVILLE. FRAKKLIN. 


ing  of  notice  is  Booneville,  situated  on  a plain  about 
two  hundred  feet  above  the  river,  of  which  it  commands 
a beautiful  vieiv ; it  is  surrounded  by  fine  undulating 
woods  and  fertile  fields.  Ii  contains  shops,  warehouses, 
and  a court-house,  besides  a tavern,  dignified  by  the 
name  of  a hotel.  Some  of  the  houses  are  of  brick,  but 
the  greater  proportion  are  framework  : it  is  altogether 
one  of  the  prettiest  and  most  promising  settlements  in 
Missouri,  and  the  lots  of  land  are  nearly  equal  in  value 
to  those  of  St.  Louis. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  is  Franklin  : it  is,  I 
believe,  an  older  settlement  than  Booneville  ; but  is 
more  low,  unhealthy,  and  in  every  respect  worse  situated, 
as  regards  its  prospects  either  of  pleasure  or  profit. 
Both  salt  and  coal  are  found  in  this  neighbourhood  ; the 
former  is  manufactured  in  a manner  resembling  the  salt- 
works near  the  Ohio;  the  latter  sleeps,  I believe,  undis- 
turbed in  its  bed.  I went  into  one  house  which  had 
been  struck  by  lightning  the  preceding  night;  several 
parts  of  the  interior  plastering  had  been  scattered  about 
the  rooms,  but  little  serious  damage  was  done.  We 
experienced  one  very  severe  shock  tn  the  steam-boat, 
which  actually  trembled,  but  received  no  injury. 

In  this  part  of  the  country,  beef  sells  at  three  pence 
per  pound,  chickens  at  two-pence  halfpenny  sterling, 
common  horses  at  forty  or  fifty  dollars,  and  land  at  va- 
rious prices,  from  one  dollar  and  a half  to  five  dollars 
per  acre. 

On  the  20th,  nothing  of  any  consequence  occurred  ; 
but  we  ran  aground  once  or  twice  on  a bar,  and  had  one 
very  narrow  escape,  which  is  worth  relating,  as  it  shows 
the  difficulties  attending  the  navigation  of  this  extraor- 
dinary river.  The  pilot,  who  was  considered  one  of 
the  most  experienced  in  his  profession,  steered  us  up  a 
narrow  channel  between  an  island  and  the  river  bank  ; 
and  when  we  reached  the  point  where  it  again  joined 
the  main  stream,  the  passage  was  effectually  blockaded 
by  an  enormous  and  solid  raft  of  floating  timber:  when 
be  came  down  a short  time  ago,  this  channel  was  per- 
fectly free;  it  would  now  have  defied  Admiral  Rodney, 
or  any  other  bold  line-breaker.  A deposit  of  mud  wa& 


NARROW  ESCAPE. 


175 


already  lodged  on  a considerable  portion  of  it,  and  a few 
infant  willows  and  poplars  had  made  it  their  nursery. 

The  stream  was  running  with  great  velocity — there 
was  little  room  for  turning  the  steamer,  and  just  below 
us  was  a most  formidable  snag  in  the  mid-stream. 
After  manoeuvring  for  at  least  twenty  minutes  between 
this  vegetable  Scylla  and  Charybdis,  the  pilot  succeeded 
in  clearing  the  snag,  and  returning  down  the  stream  to 
seek  a more  favourable  outlet.  We  were  not  aware  of 
having  been  in  any  danger;  but  the  captain  afterwards 
informed  us  that,  if  we  had  got  across  the  snag,  the 
boat  would  have  split  up  and  gone  to  pieces,  and  we 
did  not  miss  it  by  more  than  six  inches  ! This  may 
seem  extraordinarv  to  those  who  do  not  know  the  vast 
size  and  bulk  of  the  embedded  tree  forming  the  snag, 
the  extreme  force  and  rapidity  of  the  current,  and  the 
slight  materials  of  which  these  steamers  are  built : at 
all  events,  our  captain  assured  us  that  he  had  rarely  ex- 
perienced more  uneasy  sensations  than  during  those 
few  minutes. 

In  spite  of  accidents  and  current,  we  found  ourselves 
on  the  9ih  day,  at  Liberty,  the  last  western  village  in 
the  United  Stales.  Here  we  were  obliged  to  stay  two 
or  three  days,  to  make  preparation  for  our  trip  into  the 
wilderness.  The  most  essential  purchase  was  in  the 
horse-market : the  quantity  of  animals  brought  in  for 
me  to  try  was  considerable,  and  in  twenty-four  hours  I 
found  myself  and  my  companion  owners  of  five  ponies 
and  a mule ; being  two  for  our  own  riding,  one  for  my 
servant,  and  three  for  paikirig.  I shall  make  an  extract 
from  the  account  of  the  store  where  we  provided  our- 
selves with  all  the  requisites  for  the  prairie,  as  a kind 
of  memorandum  and  illustration  of  the  articles  most 
necessary  for  an  excursion  among  the  western  tribes. 

Being  already  provided  with  arms,  saddles,  laryettes 
or  tethers,  blankets,  a bear-skin,  pack-saddles,  and  horses, 
(which  last  averaged  about  forty  dollars  a-piece,  of  a 
small  size,)  a box  of  vermilion,  to  make  presents  to  In- 
dians withal,  and  a very  small  assortment  of  hunting 
clothes,  I provided  at  the  outfitting  store  the  following 
items : — 10  lbs.  of  lead,  6 lbs.  of  shot,  20  lbs  of  coffee, 


176 


OUTFIT. 


12  lbs.  of  salt;  an  assortment  of  rings;  beads  of  all 
colours  and  sizes  ; wampum  * x mirrors,  knives,  and  other 
trifles  for  presents  ; 24  lbs.  of  sugar,  three  pack-blankets 
and  sacks,  a bottle  of  pepper,  some  tin  cups,  a bucket, 
one  copper  kettle,  two  tin  pans,  a frying-pan,  a jug,  two 
canteens  for  water,  two  jugs  for  brandy,  10  lbs.  of  pow- 
der, 50  lbs.  of  bacon  for  frying,  eating,  &c. ; these,  and 
a few  other  sundries,  make  a somewhat  troublesome 
freight  for  one  or  two  mules  and  ponies,  especially  if  it 
be  considered  that  the  most  important  article  is  not  yet 
included,  namely,  bread  or  flour,  in  some  shape  or  other, 
which  is  necessary  to  the  extent  of  70  or  80  lbs.  for 
three  persons,  as  it  is  a very  long  journey  before  the 
hunter  can  expect  to  find  buffalo ; and  then  he  may  be 
disappointed,  as  they  shift  their  ground  very  much. 

The  whole  of  this  outfit,  including  five  horses  and  one 
mule,  was  little  more  than  300  dollars,  or  60/. 

On  the  2d  of  July  we  started  for  Fort  Leavenworth, 
the  western  military  post  of  the  United  States;  but  si  - 
uated  about  twenty  miles  beyond  the  states’  boundary, 
in  a kind  of  neutral  ground,  belonging  neither  to  the  red 
nor  the  white  man,  but  on  which  both  are  forbidden  by 
the  law  of  the  country  to  settle.  About  ten  miles  from 
Liberty  we  came  to  the  first  prairie  which  I had  crossed 
in  Missouri : it  was  eight  miles  broad,  consisting  of 
beautiful  undulations  of  pasture,  adorned  with  bright 
and  various  flowers,,  and  studded  with  numerous  little 
islands  of  timber,  so  regular  in  their  form  and  so  taste- 
fully disposed,  as  to  induce  the  traveller  to  believe  that 
Messrs.  Knight,  Brown,  and  other  “ picturesque”  and 
“ capability”  brethren,  had  laid  it  out  with  the  most  ex- 
act care.  I was  quite  aware  that  this  was  but  a lake, 
compared  to  the  ocean  of  prairie  which  I was  yet  to  see 
in  the  far  West;  but  as  it  was  bounded  on  all  sides  by  a 
noble  forest  of  timber,  the  scenery  was  equally  new  and 
delighiful.  .. 

*“  Wampum.”  This  word  is  a corruption  of  “ Wampampea,”  In- 
dian money  ; so  called  by  the  Narragansets,  and  other  tribes  found  in 
New  England  by  the  first  British  settlers:  it  was  of  two  kinds,  white 
and  black  ; the  one  made  of  the  shell  of  the  periwinkle  ( Buccinum  un- 
datum  Lin.)  ; the  other  of  that  of  the  clam  (Venus  mercenana  Lin.); 
both  belong  to  the  class  Vermes  tcslaeca. 


MUSQUIT0E3 


177 


After  a pleasant  ride  of  about  thirty  miles,  during 
which  we  crossed  with  some  little  difficulty  the  river 
Platte  (which  frequently  rises  or  falls  thirty  feet  in  a 
week),  we  came  to  a low7  swampy  wood,  where  the  mud 
was  about  a foot  or  a foot  and  a half  deep  (the  weather 
being  fine  and  dry).  The  road  (if  it  can  be  so  called) 
wanders  ad  libitum  round  clumps,  fallen  timber,  and 
bushes,  leaving  every  traveller  to  select  the  places 
where  he  is  least  likely  to  stick  fast : and  here  let  me 
not  fail  to  record  the  high  talents  in  strategy  displayed 
by  sundry  light  troops  called  musquitoes,  that,  with 
true  Indian  cunning,  lie  in  ambush  in  this  dense  swamp, 
and  dart  out  upon  the  helpless  wanderer  in  swarms, 
when  his  utmost  exertions  cannot  urge  the  fleetest  steed 
to  a pace  above  a struggling  walk.  Arming  our  hands 
with  branches,  like  Macduff’s  soldiers  of  old,  our  souls 
with  fortitude,  and  our  mouths  with  cigars,  we  forced 
our  way  gallantly  through  opposing  myriads  without 
receiving  mote  than  a thousand  wounds,  and  arrived 
safe  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  thankful  for  having 
escaped  the  muddy  perils  of  the  “ Missouri  bottom.” 

It  was  too  late  to  ferry  over  our  horses,  which  we 
accordingly  left  on  the  northern  bank.  We  crossed  in 
a canoe ; and,  with  our  saddlebags  on  our  arms,  made 
good  our  entrance  about  nightfall  into  the  fort.  Most 
of  the  officers  were  absent  wdth  Colonel  Dodge’s  ex- 
ploring expedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  one  which 
I had  been  myself  so  anxious  to  join,  but  from  Lieute- 
nant C , the  commanding  officer,  and  one  or  two 

others  who  happened  to  be  in  the  fort,  we  received  the 
most  polite  and  hospitable  attention. 

Fort  Leavenworth  is  situated  on  a promontory  formed 
by  a sweeping  bend  of  the  Missouri,  on  the  southern 
side  of  the  river,  of  which  it  commands  a fine  view.  It 
is  considerably  elevated  above  the  bed  of  the  stream, 
and  the  country  immediately  adjacent  is  prairie,  thick- 
ly scattered  with  timber  and  brushwood. 

At  the  distance  of  a mile  from  the  cantonment  rises 
a semicircular  range  of  heights,  to  the  top  of  which  I 
soon  made  my  way,  and  w7as  repaid  by  as  fair  a prospect 
as  ever  gladdened  the  eye  of  man.  Looking  towards 


178 


KICKAPOO  TRIBE. 


the  north,  below  me  was  the  fort,  with  its  scattered 
white  buildings,  bearing  the  appearance  of  a neat  little 
village  among  the  trees;  beyond  it  were  seen  fifteen  or 
twenty  white  tents,  being  the  encampment  of  a body  of 
Indians,  moving  westward,  under  the  superintendence 
of  an  Indian  agent;  their  dusky  and  blanketed  forms 
scarcely  visible,  as  they  strode  from  tent  to  tent,  while 
around  were  browsing  their  mules  and  ponies  ; here  and 
there  might  be  seen  two  or  three  galloping  their  wild 
little  steeds  from  one  part  to  another  of  the  plain  be- 
low : beyond  the  fort  was  the  magnificent  river,  here 
showing  the  full  expansive  breadth  of  its  course,  and 
there  to  be  traced  only  by  broken  glimpses  caught  through 
the  surrounding  trees  ; while  on  its  opposite  bank  rose 
the  verdant  and  multitudinous  mass  of  primitive  forest, 
defying  the  eye  to  scan,  or  the  mind  to  reduce  to  mea- 
surement, its  acres  and  miles  of  extent.  I had  then  but 
to  turn  round,  and  look  towards  the  south,  when  the  eye 
wandered  over  a vast  undulating  prairie,  and  reposed  at 
length  upon  a far  distant  range  of  hills,  just  discernible 
through  the  rich  sunny  haze  in  which  they  were  mantled. 
In  the  description  of  scenes  like  These,  the  inefficiency 
of  language  is  felt,  and  one  cannot  help  acknowledging 
the  truth  of  Byron’s  coarse,  but  forcible  imagery,  when 
he  says  we  become  “ dazzled  and  drunk  with  beauty.”* 

Within  twenty  or  thirty  miles  of  Fort  Leavenworth 
are  settled  a great  variety  of  Indian  tribes,  most  of  them 
emigrants  from  the  country  now  inhabited  by  the  whites, 
especially  from  the  stales  of  Illinois  and  Michigan.  The 
nearest  to  the  fort  are  the  Kickapoos,  who  are  settled  in 
a village  distant  from  it  about  four  miles.  They  are  a 
weak  and  daily  decreasing  tribe  ; their  natural  properties 
are  much  changed  by  constant  communication  with  the 
whites.  There  is  a Methodist  missionary  resident 
among  them. 

The  fort  is  supplied  with  beef  and  other  meat,  chiefly 
by  a farmer  who  lives  in  the  Great  Bottom,  immediately 
opposite  to  it.  Among  other  articles  fpr  the  supply  of 

* This  idea  occurs  so  frequently  in  German  poetry,  as  to  be  familiar 
tp  every  one  ^yhp  is  ponversant  with  the  1 jteratprp  pf  that  country. 


commemoration  festivities. 


179 


the  table,  one  of  the  most  abundant  to  be  met  with  here, 
is  the  catfish.  I found  it  somewhat  coarse,  but  not  un- 
palatable eating.  These  fish  are  caught  of  a most 
enormous  size,  and  in  great  quantities,  by  the  settlers, 
on  the  banks  of  the  river;  one  of  whom  told  me  that  he 
caught  four  in  the  course  of  one  morning,  weighing 
above  fifty  pounds  each. 

On  the  4ih  of  July,  the  usual  commemoration  took 
place,  of  firing  twenty-four  guns  ; after  which  ceremony 
we  adjourned  to  an  excellent  dinner  ; and  madera  and 
champaign  were  the  order  of  the  day.  We  had  spent 
an  hour  or  two  in  the  festivities  of  the  table,  when  news 
was  brought  in  that  a hundred  and  fifty  Pawnees  had 
arrived  under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Dougherty,  one  of 
the  principal  Indian  agents ; and,  upon  an  invitation 
from  the  officers,  twelve  or  fourteen  of  their  chief  war- 
riors came  into  the  mess-room.  I had  already  seen 
many  Indians,  but  none  so  wild  and  unsophisticated  as 
these  genuine  children  of  the  wilderness.  They  filtered 
the  room  with  considerable  ease  and  dignity,  shook 
hands  with  us  all,  and  sat  down  comfortably  to  cigars 
and  madera.  I was  quite  astonished  at  the  tact  and 
self-possession  of  these  Indians,  two-thirds  of  whom 
had  never  been  in  a settlement  of  white  men  before, 
nor  had  ever  seen  a fork,  or  table,  or  chair  in  their  lives  ; 
yet,  without  asking  questions,  or  appearing  to  observe 
what  was  passing,  they  caught  it  with  intuitive  readi- 
ness, and  during  the  whole  dinner  were  not  guilty  of  a 
single  absurdity  or  breach  of  decorum. 

The  dress  of  these  Indians  consisted  of  a belt  of  deer- 
skin round  the  middle,  with  a flap  passing  between  the 
legs,  and  fastened  again  to  the  belt  behind.  Their  legs 
were  covered  with  tight  leggins  of  deer-skin,  and  their  feet 
by  moccasins ; while  their  shoulders  were  loosely  and 
gracefully  covered,  or  half  covered,  by  a blanket  or  buffa- 
lo-skin. Most  of  them  had  ear-rings,  bead-necklaces,  and 
armlets;  and  the  two  principal  chiefs  wore  round  their 
necks  a large  medal  each,  on  which  was  engraved  the 
head  of  the  late  President  of  the  United  States.  The 
greater  part  of  them  were  lusty,  and  a few  even  fat, 
giving  no  outward  evidence  of  the  privations  to  which 


180 


SAVAGES  FEASTINC. 


their  mode  of  life  renders  them  so  liable.  Generally 
speaking,  they  were  of  middle  height,  with  fine  chests, 
arms  well-proportioned  'out  not  muscular,  and  remarka- 
bly fine-shaped  legs.  I do  not  think  there  was  a coun- 
tenance among  them  that  could  be  pronounced  hand- 
some, though  several  were  pleasing  and  good-humoured  ; 
but  the  prevalent  character  of  their  expression  was 
haughty  impenetrable  reserve,  easily  distinguishable 
through  the  mask  of  frank  conciliation,  which  their  pre- 
sent object  rendered  it  expedient  for  them  to  wear. 

As  we  in  our  mirth  sang  one  or  two  choral  songs,  we 
called  upon  our  red  brethren.  They  rose  all  at  once; 
and  I never  shall  forget  the  effect  of  that  first  Indian 
chorus  which  I ever  heard.  Each  singer  began,  by 
strange  and  uncouth  sounds,  to  work  his  mind  and  lungs 
up  to  the  proper  pitch  of  excitement  ; and  when  at  length 
their  shrill  and  terrible  cry  rose  to  its  full  height,  its 
effect  was  astounding,  and  sufficient  to  deafen  a delicate 
ear.  Then  again  they  would  allow  their  strain  to  fall 
into  a monotonous  cadence,  to  which  they  kept  time 
with  inflections  of  the  head  and  body,  and  again  burst 
forth  into  full  chorus  of  mingled  yell  and  howl. 

In  an  hour  the  party  broke  up;  and  as  the  twilight 
was  setting  in,  I jumped  on  my  horse  to  gallop  off  the 
effects  of  wine,  noise,  and  smoke.  After  riding  till  the 
moon  was  pretty  “ high  in  heaven,”  I returned  to  the 
fort,  and,  within  a few  hundred  yards  of  it,  enjoyed  a 
scene,  only  transferable  to  the  imagination  of  another 
by  the  pencil  of  Rembrandt  or  Wouvermans. 

In  the  midst  of  the  encampment,  the  white  tents  of 
which  showed  like  snow  in  the  moonlight,  were  eight 
or  ten  large  blazing  fires,  round  which  the  savages 
were  gathered  in  circles,  roasting  on  rough  sticks  huge  - 
fragments  of  a newly-killed  ox.  The  greater  part,  of 
them  were  naked,  except  the  before-mentioned  belt 
round  the  middle  ; and  their  dusky  figures,  lighted  par- 
tially by  the  fitful  glare  of  the  crackling  wood  fire, 
seemed  like  a band  of  demons  gathered  round  one  of 
the  fabled  caldrons  of  necromancy.  Recognizing  one 
of  the  chiefs  who  had  joined  us  at  the  dinner  table,  and 
Mr.  Dougherty,  smoking  with  him,  in  one  of  these  grim  1 


SAVAGES  FEASTING. 


181 


circles,  I and  my  young  German  friend  leaped  off  out 
horses,  which  an  Indian  held  for  us,  and  advanced  to 
wards  the  chief.  Room  was  immediately  made,  and  a 
buffalo-skin  given  us  to  sit  upon.  We  shook  hands,  and 
smoked  together.  Soon  the  ribs  of  beef  were  declared 
“roasted,”  and  an  Indian  having  cut  and  torn  them 
apart,  laid  one  before  Mr.  Dogherty,  one  before  the 
chief,  and  one  before  us. 

I had  not  much  appetite  so  soon  after  a good  dinner ; 
however,  I had  read  and  heard  too  much  of  Indian  pre- 
judices to  decline,  and  accordingly  ate  two  or  three 
mouthfuls  of  half-raw  meat,  which  would  have  been 
very  palatable  to  a hunter  or  starved  traveller.  The 
scene  around  baffled  all  description  : the  savages  scat- 
tered about  in  every  sedentary  or  recumbent  attitude  that 
man  or  monkey  can  assume,  tearing  the  meat  from  the 
bone  with  their  strong  teeth,  and  masticating  slices,  each 
of  which  would  beada^’s  dinner  to  a Yorkshire  plough- 
man, our  horses  standing  in  mute  astonishment  by,  and 
the  background  of  the  picture  occupied  by  distant 
groups,  collected  also  round  their  fires,  produced  alto- 
gether an  effect  neither  to  be  described  nor  forgotten. 

Having  formed  a hasty,  but  determined,  resolution,  of 
accompanying  these  Pawnees  in  their  return  to  their  na- 
tion, I was  anxious  to  derive  all  the  benefit  possible  from 
the  advice  and  assistance  of  Mr.  Dogherty,  who  being 
the  negotiator  of  all  their  treaties  with  the  United  States, 
and  being  tolerably  familiar  with  their  language,  possessed 
great  influence  with  the  tribe.  This  gentleman  entered 
most  obligingly  into  my  scheme  ; he  held  a talk  with  the 
leaders  of  the  party  ; told  them  that  I was  “ a great  chief 
among  while  men  ; that  l was  a son  or  relative  of  their 
grandfather;  and  that,  if  they  killed  me,  or  did  me  any 
injury,  I should  be  revenged,”  &c.  He  also  gave  me 
useful  directions  for  my  own  conduct  among  them,  ad- 
vising me  never  to  joke  at  any  of  their  religious  or  “ me- 
dicine” ceremonies,  however  absurd  ; never  to  play  or 
become  too  familiar  with  them  ; to  conciliate  them  as 
much  as  possible  by  presents,  but  not  to  allow  them  to 
rob  me ; and,  above  all,  if  they  tried  to  impose  upon  me, 
or  to  bully  me  out  of  any  point  where  I was  sure  that  I 

Vol.  I.— Q 


182 


WILD  EXPERIMENT. 


was  in  the  right,  to  resist  firmly,  and  give  them  the  idea 
that  I would  maintain  my  object  without  regard  to  my 
life.  He  said,  that  by  observing  these  hints  I might 
spend  a summer  among  them,  and  probably  return  in 
safety,  barring  the  accidents  that  might  arise  from  quar- 
rels, or  war-parties  of  hostile  tribes,  and  other  casualties 
incidental  to  the  wild  irregular  life  in  the  prairie. 

"We  spent  two  or  three  days  very  pleasantly  at  the 
fort,  and  completed  our  preparations  and  packages,  which 
is  a much  more  unpleasant,  or  rather  tiresome,  business, 
than  can  be  imagined  by  those  accustomed  to  civilized 
life,  where  its  comforts  can  be  procured  for  money  ; 
while  in  the  wilderness  to  which  we  wrere  bound,  ihe 
only  resource  was  the  rifle,  and  such  provisions  as  we 
could  take.  We  tried  in  vain  to  get  a half-blood  In- 
dian, or  any  other  attendant  accustomed  to  camp-hunt- 
ing, and  accordingly  were  obliged  to  trust  ourselves  alone 
with  the  savages,  the  only  means  of  communication  be- 
ing through  an  interpreter,  wTho  spoke  very  bad  French, 
very  good  Pawnee,  and  no  English.  This  seemed  a 
strange  and  wild  experiment ; but  having  complete  con- 
fidence in  the  agent  who  sanctioned  our  so  doing,  I hired 
a lad,  the  son  of  the  garrison  mess-man,  to  assist  in  lead- 
ing the  pack-horses,  cooking,  &c.,  and  set  forth  on  the 
7lh  of  July. 


PAWNEE  CHIEFS. 


183 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Pawnee  chiefs  with  whom  I started. — Leave  Fort  Leavenworth. — Roll- 
ing Prairie. — Halting  Place. — Loss  of  Horses. — Flock  of  Perroquets. 
— Our  stray  Horses. — Indian  Appetite. — Accidents  by  the  Way. — 
Overtake  the  Pawnee  Deputation. — Esculent  Roots. — Deer-stalking 
in  the  Prairie. — A Misfortune. — Cross  the  Great  Nimahaw  River. — 
Party  in  Search  of  Elk. — Rejoin  the  Camp. — Tired  Horse. — False 
Alarm  of  Chill  and  Fever. — The  Kanzas  River. — My  Dog  killed  and 
eaten. — Fatiguing  Travelling. — Friendly  Reception. — Effect  of  whis- 
key on  the  Indians. — Indian  Village — Occupations  of  the  Men,  Wo- 
men, and  Children. — The  old  Chief. — Buffalo  Meat. — Jrder  of 
March. — Pawnee  Summer  Lodge. — Medicine. — First  Night  in  the 
Pawnee  Lodge. — Dogs. 

The  names  of  the  four  principal  Pawnee  chiefs  with 
whom  I started  were  ( nearly ) as  follows : — 

Sa-ru-tsa-rish,  or  “ wicked-chief,”  grand  Pawnees  ; 
Le-pre-colo-'hoo-la-charo,  or  “ mouth-chief,”  Tapage 
Pawnees ; Pa6-taMa®-cha’ro,*  or  “ man-chief,”  grand 
Pawnees;  Too-la-la-cha-shu,  or  “the  man  who  runs,” 
grand  Pawnees. 

Having  left  Fort  Leavenworth  with  the  Pawnees  about 
eleven  o’clock,  we  travelled,  rather  to  the  north  of  west, 
twenty-five  miles,  through  a beautiful  rolling  prairie,  in- 
terspersed with  trees,  which  were  so  regularly  and  care- 
fully grouped  as  to  remind  me  of  Windsor  and  other  no- 
ble English  parks ; but  these  had  the  additional  advan- 
tage of  forming  part  of  a woodland  scene  boundless  in 
extent,  and  for  the  first  ten  miles  the  picturesque  and 
broken  heights  which  confine  the  Missouri  increased  the 
beauty  of  the  prospect.  The  grass,  which  was  extremely 
rich  and  luxuriant,  was  sprinkled  with  gay  flowrers,  which 
were  mostly  unknown  to  me,  although  I had  seen  some 
as  tenants  of  a British  hothouse,  as  several  varieties  of 

I the  “ cactus,”  and  others,  whose  names,  vulgar  or  scien- 
tific, I am  unable  to  record. 

J*  The  son  of  the  Maha,  or  Pawnee  Loup  chief,  was  also  with  the 
deputation. 


184 


FLOCK  OF  PERROQUETS. 


We  camped,  with  our  good-humoured  savages,  at  sun- 
set, on  the  banks  of  a creek*  thinly  clothed  with  brush- 
wood, where  the  mosquitoes  were  not  much  more  nu- 
merous than  the  flies  in  a sugar  cupboard.  Having  re- 
leased our  horses  and  mules  from  their  saddles  and 
packages,  wre  proceeded  to  cook  our  supper,  consisting 
of  tea,  fried  ham,  and  sea-biscuit.  The  night  was  ex- 
tremely foggy  and  cold  ; and,  on  rising  at  daybreak,  we 
made  the  agreeable  discovery  that  four  of  our  animals, 
including  a mule,  had  broken  away  from  their  respective 
fastenings,  and  were  nowhere  to  be  found. 

I despatched  the  younger  of  our  attendants  and  an  In- 
dian in  pursuit;  meanwhile  the  savages  proceeded  on 
their  journey,  leaving  us  in  total  ignorance  of  the  “ lo- 
cale” of  our  quadruped  deserters.  It  was  a dull  and 
weary  day,  and  gave  ample  scope  for  an  attack  of  the 
blue  devils.  In  seasons  like  these,  when  the  solitude 
and  monotony  of  the  prairie  are  not  relieved  bv  the  ex- 
citement of  travelling  or  the  chase,  the  ghosts  of  remem- 
bered social  enjoyments  are  apt  to  intrude  on  the  wan- 
derer’s waking  dreams  ! Could  some  of  those  with  whom 
he  has  shared  them,  and  who  are  still  within  their  sphere, 
only  imagine  how  often  they  are  called  up  by  fancy  or 
memory  to  cheer  the  hours  of  absence,  I cannot  but  think 
it  would  augment  their  happiness.  By  the  enchantment 
thus  lent  by  distance,  the  ordinary  and  daily  occurrences 
of  social  intercourse(soapt  to  be  ungratefully  passed  over) 
are  seen  in  their  fairest  colours,  and  a walk,  a ride,  a 
word,  a smile,  recalled  to  mind,  become  food  for  delight- 
ful, though  somewhat  melancholy,  rumination. 

I rambled  about  the  woods  near  our  halting-place,  with 
my  fowling-piece  in  my  hand,  and  Peevish  by  my  side, 
but  found  nothing  feathered  upon  which  to  exercise  my 
skill  except  a small  flock  of  green  Perroquets.  (I  be- 
lieve, the  species  called  Psittacus  ntfirostris.)  I killed 
half  a dozen,  and  we  cooked  them  for  supper  ; they  were 
fat,  and  by  no  means  unpalatable.  I retained  some  of 
the  more  gay  and  brilliant  feathers  as  presents  for  the 
Indians. 

* A small  river  or  stream  is  invariably  so  denominated  in  this  part  of 
the  world. 


ACCIDENTS. 


185 


On  the  following  day,  our  lad  returned  with  the  Indian 
and  two  of  the  stray  horses,  leaving  us  minus  the  largest 
mule  and  a very  pretty  little  mare,  which  last  I had  de- 
stined to  the  honour  of  bearing  me  to  charge  the  buffalo. 
We  called  a council,  to  decide  whether  we  should  return 
to  the  fort,  recover  the  remaining  estrays,  and  seek  some 
other  opportunity;  or  place  our  packages  on  the  two  re- 
maining animals,  and  proceed  at  all  risks.  The  spirit  of 
adventure  prevailed,  and  we  determined  to  follow  the 
Pawnees  immediately.  It  should  be  added,  more  I fear 
to  the  praise  of  the  horses’  endurance  than  of  our  huma- 
nity, that  the  two  recovered  fugitives,  one  of  which  was 
my  favourite  riding-mare,  had  gone  the  whole  way  back 
to  the  fort,  and  thence  been  again  ridden  hard  to  our 
camping-place,  making  in  all  seventy-five  miles,  without 
rest  or  food,  except  what  they  could  pick  up  by  the  way. 
This  was  not  a good  “ preliminary”  for  a long  journey 
of  a thousand  miles  more  or  less. 

I had  been  lucky  enough  to  kill  a fawn,  (the  only 
deer  seen  since  we  left  the  fort,)  which  furnished  us  a 
good  supper,  and  no  more;  for  never  did  \ see  anything 
equal  to  the  appetite  of  our  Indian.  Ribs,  head,  shoul- 
ders, &c.,  disappeared  one  after  the  other.  He  quietly 
ate  everything  placed  before  or  near  him,  without  the 
slightest  symptom  of  diminished  power;  and  I was  not 
then  aware  of  the  incredible  capacity  of  Indians,  or  of 
their  notion  that  it  is  impolite  to  decline  proffered  food 
under  any  circumstances  whatsoever. 

We  rode  on,  under  a hot  sun,  but  with  a fine  breeze, 
through  a country  rather  less  rich  in  timber  and  foliage, 
and  camped  at  night,  having  made  about  thirty-four  miles : 
course,  W.N.W.  Not  being  yet  accustomed  to  pass  the 
night  under  the  free  star-lit  vault,  I did  not  sleep  much; 
but  it  did  not  matter,  as  my  young  German  companion 
slept  enough  for  both. 

The  9th  of  July  was  a continued  chapter  of  accidents, 
commencing  with  a somerset  performed  by  my  little 
mule,  that  was  carrying  about.  250lbs.  with  which  he 
attempted  to  scramble  up  a s1'  11  ‘ 1 


of  which  was  a pond,  about 


. > I 1 — | 

immortalized  cat,  he  “ tumbled  headlong  in,”  his  whole 

Q* 


186 


ACCIDENTS. 


load  falling  on  him,  and  would  probably  have  been 
drowned  or  smothered,  had  not  one  of  the  men  jumped 
in,  and  cut  all  the  cords  and  thongs  that  bound  him.  For 
a few  minutes,  our  provisions,  consisting  of  sugar,  flour,4 
and  biscuit,  as  well  as  our  presents  for  the  Indians,  such 
as  powder,  vermilion,  tobacco,  &c.,  remained  under  wa- 
ter, very  much  to  our  consternation  and  annoyance  : nor 
do  I think  the  strongest  advocate  for  cleanliness  and 
cold  water  that  ever  drew  breath,  could  have  viewed  that 
immersion  with  satisfaction.  The  invulnerable  mule 
was  unhurt,  and  repacked.  A few  miles  farther,  he 
thought  fit  to  amuse  us  with  feats  of  activity  and  sleight 
of  foot,  galloped  off  the  path,  and  did  not  cease  kicking 
and  plunging  till  he  had  deposited  every  article  of  his 
pack  on  the  prairie,  and  had  totally  freed  himself  from 
his  harness,  or,  in  the  convenient  language  of  patriots, 
the  “trammels  of  office.”  This,  though  laughable  enough, 
was  scarcely  pleasant,  as  we  were  in  a hurry.  Jt  was 
impossible,  however,  to  be  angry  with  the  little  wretch, 
who  had  not  the  least  vice  in  him,  but  grazed  quietly 
near  his  late  rejected  load,  and  suffered  its  scattered  parts 
to  be  replaced  without  any  signs  of  alarm  or  discontent. 

We  thus  lost  a great  deal  of  time,  especially  as  our 
attendants  were  extremely  slow  and  awkward  in  pack- 
ing; and  I know  not  whether  the  French  interpreter 
muttered'  more  curses  upon  the  activity  of  the  mule  or 
the  tardiness  of  his  drivers.  The  anger  of  fate  was  not 
yet  appeased  ; and,  after  another  ten  miles,  the  poor  little 
mule  was  again  laid  low  in  a miry  creek,  where  he  rolled 
and  struggled  so  furiously  for  many  minutes  that  I felt 
sure  he  must  be  seriously  strained  and  injured.  The 
pack  was  again  cut  off,  the  mule  extricated  and  reloaded, 
and  no  farther  accident  occurred,  except  that  another 
horse  ran  away  with  our  keg  of  brandy,  which  fell  off, 
and  was  dragged,  at  a gallop,  for  half  a mile,  over  the 
“ rolling  prairie,”  and  a considerable  quantity  escaped. 

* Before  quitting  the  fort,  I had  added  ft)  our  stoek  of  provisions  a 
small  bag  of  flour  carefully  sown  up  in  repeated  folds  of  skin  and  wax- 
cloth; it  was  prepared  by  an  experienced  hunter,  so  as  to  be  proof 
against  wet  and  all  other  damage.  I never  told  what  it  contained,  be- 
ing determined  to  keep  it  as  a reserve,  in  case  of  extreme  necessity. 


ESCULENT  ROOTS. 


187 


In  spite  of  these  delays,  I don’t  think  we  travelled  less 
than  fifty  miles,  having  been  in  motion  from  six  a.  m.  till 
half-past  nine,  p.  m. 

This  was  a disagreeable  evening:  it  had  rained  most 
of  the  day  ; ourselves,  clothes,  &c.,  were  tolerably  soak- 
ed ; we  could  not  pitch  our  tent ; and  with  some  difficulty 
got  up  a fire,  threw  some  tea  into  a pot  of  boiling  water, 
and  mixing  it  with  our  wet  biscuit,  found  it  delicious.  It 
rained  all  night,  and  all  the  following  morning;  however, 
we  succeeded  about  mid-day  in  overtaking  our  Pawnees, 
the  old  chief,  Sa-m-tsa-rish,  embraced  me  tenderly,  and 
seemed  much  grieved  at  our  having  lost  two  horses. 
We  then  opened  our  bales,  to  ascertain  the  amount  of 
damage  done  by  mulish  freaks  and  wet.  We  found 
most  of  our  biscuit  reduced  to  bad  pap ; many  of  our 
beads  blackened  with  wet  powder;  and  part  of  the  ver- 
milion bestowing  its  rosy  favours  among  its  neighbours, 
with  an  indiscriminate  generosity  which  was  by  no  means 
admired.  Our  knives  were  rusted,  and  the  whole  pack- 
age in  poor  plight.  However,  our  powder  and  flour 
were  unhurt,  and  that  was  a subject  of  much  satisfaction. 

The  Indians  assisted  us  most  good-naturedly  in  spread- 
ing and  drying  all  our  “goods;”  and  I do  not  believe 
we  lost  the  smallest  article,  although  hundreds  of  them 
were  standing  around.  We  made  a great  feast  with  our 
wet  biscuit  and  a pot  of  coffee,  and  gave  as  much  as  was 
in  our  power  among  the  Indians,  who  had  little  or  no 
food,  except  such  roots  as  they  could  pick  up.  Of  these, 
the  principal  was  an  esculent  root,  something  between  a 
potato  and  a radish,  most  greedily  sought  by  the  Indians 
when  going  to  the  Buffalo  country  : they  are  then  often 
reduced  to  a state  approaching  to  starvation  ; and  I have 
seen  these  roots  dug  out  two,  three,  and  even  four  miles 
from  the  regular  trail.  I ate  them,  and  they  appear 
somewhat  nutritious  and  not  unpalatable,  but  under  any 
other  circumstances  would  be  thought  tasteless  and  diffi- 
cult of  digestion.  They  are  eaten  raw,  and  I have  never 
seen  any  attempt  to  c6ok  them  among  the  Pawnees  ; 
but  they  are  said  to  be  tolerably  wholesome,  as  well  as 
palatable,  when  boiled  or  roasted.  The  Canadian  French 
call  them  Pomme  blanche ; their  Pawnee  name  I forget. 


1S8 


DEER-STALKING. 


but  in  the  Ojibbeway  dialect  they  are  called  Metus-ko - 
she-min , or  grass-berries  ; and  their  botanical  appella- 
tion is,  I believe,  Psoralea  esculenta.  Some  of  the  Mis- 
souri tribes  call  them  Nu-ga-re. 

No  game  had  been  seen  or  killed,  and  every  hour’s 
experience  tended  to  convince  me  of  the  exaggerated 
statements  with  which  many  Western  travellers  have 
misled  the  civilized  world  in  regard  to  the  game  on  these 
prairies.  I had  been  now  five  days  travelling  through 
them;  and  with  the  exception  of  a few  grouse  and  the 
fawn  I shot,  had  not  seen  anything  eatable,  either  bird 
or  quadruped. 

12th  July. — The  weather  continued  rainy,  and  the  In- 
dians went  but  a few  miles  ; the  country  became  less 
rich  in  wood  and  in  vegetation  of  every  kind,  the  only 
timber  that  we  found  being  along  the  creek  courses  ; 
and  the  prairie  was  no  longer  enlivened  by  the  flowers 
to  which  the  eye  had  become  accustomed.  I went  out 
with  a hunter  in  search  of  deer:  we  saw  one  doe  (elk) 
about  half  a mile  distant,  and  I allowed  my  red  friend 
to  take  the  lead  in  endeavouring  to  get  a shot,  in  which 
office  he  appeared  to  me  very  much  inferior  to  our  high- 
land deer-stalkers  in  taking  advantage  of  wind  and  posi- 
tion of  ground,  although  he  would  have  proved  far  su- 
perior to  them  in  following  a foot-track.  The  doe  got 
sight  of  us,  and  made  off.  We  ran  her  about  two  miles, 
without  success,  and  gave  up  the  pursuit.  I found  it 
no  joke  running  with  an  Indian  up  and  down  hill  in  grass 
three  feet  high,  now  and  then  mingled  with  tangled 
brushwood  and  shrubs.  His  wind  seemed  almost  as  in- 
exhaustible as  his  appetite,  and  running  quite  as  easy  to 
him  as  sitting.  I kept  up,  however,  without  giving  him  to 
understand  that  I was  annoyed  by  the  heat,  and  cooled 
myself  now  and  then  by  wading  and  dabbling  in  the 
creek.  After  a walk  of  fifteen  or  sixteen  miles,  during 
which  we. saw  no  more  deer,  we  returned  to  the  camp. 

The  following  morning  was  beautiful,  but  was  usher- 
ed in  by  a misfortune,  which  would  be  lightly  thought 
of  by  those,  and  those  only — 

“ Who  live  at  home  at  ease, 

And  little  apt  to  think  upon 

The  woes  of  the  prairies  ” 


CROSS  THE  NIMAHAW. 


189 


the  handle  of  my  fryingpan  was  broken  off  by  an  Indian, 
to  whom  I had  lent  it,  and  our  bread,  parched  beans,  &c. 
must  thenceforward  be  procured  at  the  risk  of  burnt  fin- 
gers. I could  not  evince  any  anger  ; for  all  the  savages 
were  most  obliging,  brought  us  wood  and  water,  helped 
to  pack  our  luggage,  and  during  the  heat  of  our  mid-day 
halt,  made  a sort  of  branch-arbour  to  protect  us  from  the 
sun.* 

In  the  evening,  we  pursued  our  route,  and  crossed  the 
Great  Nimahaw  river,  which  was  not  too  deep  to  ford, 
although  it  immersed  part  of  the  little  mule’s  pack. 
However,  we  had  a solid  and  ample  supper;  as  a party 
of  hunters,  who  had  been  all  day  employed  in  the  chase, 
had  brought  in  two  or  three  elk.  The  meat  was  good, 
but  not  so  high  flavoured  as  ordinary  venison. 

The  following  day  (the  14th)  was  intensely  hot,  and 
the  journey  dreary  and  wearisome.  Our  eyes  were  not 
gladdened  by  the  sight  of  any  edible  animal ; the  only 
visible  creatures  being  larks,  black-birds, t and  now  and 
then  a hawk  or  buzzard.  After  dinner,  at  one  o’clock,  I 
started  off  with  a party  of  hunters  in  search  of  elk;  the 
sun  was  burning  hot,  and  my  Indian  companions  walked 
very  fast  on  level  ground  and  up  the  hills,  while  in  every 
descent  they  indulged  themselves  with  a run  or  long 
trot.  The  grass  was  up  to  our  middle — I was  clothed 
and  they  were  naked — and  I had  to  carry  my  solid 
double-barrelled  rifle,  weighing  at  least  twice  as  much  as 
their  light  fowling-pieces.J  It  may  easily  be  imagined 

* I afterwards  found  that  all  these  obliging  acts  of  kindness  were  per- 
formed with  the  expectation  of  a proportionate  reward  ; the  Pawnee 
French  interpreter  confessing  that  the  Indians  did  nothing  “sansdes- 
sein.”  This  latter  word  was  used  bv  him,  and  I have  heard  it  used  by 
other  uninstructed  Canadian  Frerch,  to  signify  almost  every  category 
in  the  moral  or  physical  world  : it  often  signified  “ malice,”  “ design,” 
“reward,”  “ good  sense,”  “ money,”  &c. 

t These  prairie  black-birds  are  the  tamest  of  the  bird  creation  that  I 
have  seen  in  any  country,  exceeding  in  familiar  impudence  the  licensed 
intruder  on  the  breakfast-table  of  the  English  country-clergyman  in 
winter,  namely,  the  robin  redbreast.  They  repeatedly  perched  upon 
the  back  of  the  buffalo,  and  of  our  horses,  saddled  or  unsaddled.  I 
have,  more  than  once,  seen  them  venture  upon  the  shoulder  of  a man  ; 
and  the  young  Indian  boys  practise  their  early  archery  by  shooting  them 
at  the  distance  of  two  or  three  yards. 

I Since  their  last  treaty  with  the  United  States,  the  Pawnees  receive 


190 


SEARCH  FOR  ELK. 


lhat  this  amusement  (with  the  thermometer  probably 
about  120°  in  the  sun)  was  rather  warm  : we  went  at 
least  ten  miles  before  we  found  the  nearest  timber,  which 
was  on  the  banks  of  the  Blue  river;  here  we  saw  an 
elk  grazing  about  half  a mile  off.  I must  not  forget 
to  make  honourable  mention  of  myself,  as  having  been 
the  first  to  discover  and  point  him  out  to  the  Indians; 
and  again  I had  to  remark  their  want  of  skill  in  hunting. 
We  had  crept  to  within  three  hundred  yards  of  his  feed- 
ing-place, when  a clumsy  fellow  showed  his  head  over  a 
neighbouring  hillock,  and  our  intended  victim  made  off, 
and  was  no  more  seen. 

We  then  moved  along  the  northern  bank  of  the  river 
for  many  miles,  but  saw  no  more  game  ; at  length  we 
were  obliged  to  cross.  The  water  was  breast  high,  but 
not  very  rapid.  I thought  that,  being  once  wet,  I might 
as  well  make  the  most  of  the  opportunity  ; so  I deposit- 
ed my  gun  and  ammunition  in  safety,  and  remained 
splashing  and  swimming  about  for  a quarter  of  an  hour, 
to  the  surprise  and  amusement  of  the  Indians.  After  a 
fruitless  walk  of  twenty  miles  or  more,  we  rejoined  the 
camp. 

The  15th  was  again  a very  hot  day  ; the  soil  became 
more  barren  as  we  advanced,  and  the  grass  much  short- 
er. The  country  resembled  very  much  some  of  the 
downs  in  the  southern  part  of  England.  We  travelled 
between  twenty-five  and  thirty  miles  without  finding 
water ; and,  owing  to  the  extreme  heat  and  our  forced 
marches,  one  of  my  horses  “ stopped  short,”  or  “ gave 
out,”  which  latter  is  the  current  word  in  the  West.  The 
good-natured  old  chief  (Sa-nf-tsa-rish)  himself  remained 
behind,  and  with  difficulty  led  on  the  wearied  animal, 

annually  a certain  number  of  guns,  as  part  of  the  payment  for  the  land 
ceded  by  them  on  the  Kanzas  river.  These  guns  are  light  pieces  manu- 
factured at  Birmingham,  and  cost  about  five  or  six  dollars  each.  Some 
are  tolerably  good  ; but  the  Pawnees  having  but  lately  become  acquaint- 
ed with  the  use  of  fire-arms,  soon  destroy  them,  by  examining,  firing 
off  powder,  oveiloading,  and  other  follies.  Some  they  gamble  away; 
and  all  that  they  do  not  either  lose  or  spoil,  they  exchanged  with  the 
Haitans  and  other  predatory  tribes  in  the  West  and  South  for  horses  ; 
so  that  when  the  pay-day  returns,  very  few  efficient  guns  are  to  be 
found  in  the  Pawnee  village. 


A CHILL. 


191 


and  thereby  did  not  reach  our  night-camp  till  an  hour 
after  we  had  finished  our  supper:  this  toilsome  and 
harassing  task  he  undertook  unasked,  and,  at  the  time, 
unknown  to  me.  In  what  civilized  country  would  the 
courtesy  and  kindness  of  hospitality  be  carried  to  a high- 
er extent  ? 

I was  obliged  to  sell  my  jaded  steed  for  the  loan  of  a 
horse  to  carry  his  pack,  till  we  should  reach  the  great 
body  of  Pawnees,  where  I was  assured  I should  find  no 
difficulty  in  obtaining  a horse,  or  such  other  assistance 
as  I might  require. 

Another  day  passed  without  any  remarkable  occur- 
rence, when  the  weather  changed,  and  we  were  favoured 
with  a cold  stormy  rain,  which  lasted  all  night,  and  wet- 
ted us.  to  our  hearts’  content.  The  following  day  was 
again  intensely  hot,  in  spile  of  which  I felt  a continual 
chill,  which  no  exercise  or  perspiration  could  remove 
for  twenty-four  hours.  I began  to  think  that  I was  to 
pay  the  penalty  of  my  long  ramble  in  the  sun,  followed  by 
splashing  in  the  Blue  river,  and  then  sleeping  in  the  same 
clothes,  by  a regular  attack  of  the  “chills  and  fever,” 
alas  ! so  well  known  in  the  West.  I had  no  medical 
advice ; but  a day’s  patience,  some  hot  tea,  and  a good 
constitution,  brought  me  through,  and  I had  no  return  of 
the  attack. 

We  continued  our  course,  which  was  now  west-south- 
west, till  we  struck  a branch  of  the  Kanzas  river  ; name- 
ly, its  northern  or,  commonly  called,  Republican  Fork. 
This  is  one  of  the  principal  western  tributaries  of  the 
Missouri ; its  course  is  generally  east-south-east,  and  its 
mouth  is  seven  or  eight  miles  above  Independence,  and 
twenty-five  below  Fort  Leavenworth.  As  the  moving 
Pawnee  “ village”  was  obliged  also  to  cross  this  river, 
our  party  followed  its  banks,  wmst-north-west,  in  order 
to  find  the  trail,  with  the  object  of  overtaking  them  as 
soon  as  possible  ; this  was  the  more  desirable,  as  they 
had  maize  with  them,  and  we  had  nothing  but  what  we 
could  kill  by  the  way.  Our  journey  was  monotonous; 
the  country  dreary  and  barren,  both  of  animal  and  vege- 
table life  ; our  horses  crawled  wearily  along,  and  we 
looked  in  vain  for  any  fresh  signs  of  late  travel  or  en- 
campment. 


192 


WEARY  JOURNEY. 


For  two  or  three  days  we  continued  this  toilsome 
march ; almost  all  the  horses’  backs  were  sore,  the 
weather  oppressively  hot,  and  provisions  very  scarce. 
During  this  scarcity  of  provisions,  it  was  not  to  be  ex- 
pected that  my  red  friends  should  be  very  scrupulous  as 
to  the  nature  of  their  food,  nor  as  to  the  means  employed 
in  procuring  it;  accordingly,  they  contrived  to  entice  my 
poor  dog  Peevish  from  my  feet  while  I was  asleep,  and 
I am  convinced,  although  1 could  obtain  no  proof  of  the 
fact,  that  they  killed  and  ale  her.  When  I awoke  and 
missed  her,  I was  sure  that  she  had  been  disposed  of  in 
this  manner,  and  was  exceedingly  vexed  and  angry  ; but 
I was  obliged  to  dissemble,  and  pretend  a belief  that  she 
had  strayed  : any  demonstration  of  vexation  would  have 
lowered  me  in  the  estimation  of  the  Indians;  and  anger, 
unsupported  by  punishment  (which  was  in  this  case  im- 
possible) would  have  made  me  “ridiculous.” 

My  two  attendants  wished  most  heartily  to  return  to 
the  fort,  but  I determined  to  “ go  a-head  and  more- 
over, to  keep  the  bag  of  flour  for  subsequent  emergen- 
cies. We  saw  no  game  whatever,  every  animal  hav- 
ing been  killed  or  driven  off  by  the  Pawnees,  Kickapoos, 
and  other  nations,  who  had  preceded  us.  We  found 
the  Indian  regulations  for  travelling  very  fatiguing  ; 
namely,  starting  at  four  a.  m.,  with  nothing  to  eat,  and 
travelling  till  one,  when  we  halted  for  breakfast  and  din- 
ner at  one  time.  Most  of  us  were  obliged  towalk  nearly 
all  day,  owing  to  the  state  of  the  horses’  backs ; and  on 
the  20th  we  travelled  from  half-past  three  in  the  morning 
till  half- past  eight  in  the  evening.  I heard  sundry  com- 
plaints and  wishes  for  return  on  the  part  of  our  attend- 
ants, but  was  conveniently  deaf  and  obstinate.  In  truth, 
our  situation  was  not  very  pleasant ; my  provisions  were 
not  more  than  sufficient  for  one  meal  for  the  whole  par- 
ty, and  there  was  nothing  eatable  to  be  found  except  the 
miserable  roots  beforementioned.  However,  from  the 
recen  tmarks  which  we  found  in  several  encampments, 
we  knew  that  the  Pawnee  nation  could  not  be  very  far 
a-head.  and  the  hope  of  soon  overtaking  them  gave  a zest 
to  our  exertions,  which  made  us  press  the  horses  almost 
beyond  the  limits  of  humanity. 


JOIN  THE  REAR-GUARD. 


193 


A runner  had  been  sent  forward  to  request  the  chiefs 
to  make  a short  halt  in  order  to  give  our  party  time  to 
come  up.  Tins  Indian  had  walked  at  I he  head  of  the 
party  as  guide  during  the  whole  day’s  journey,  which 
occupied  (as  abovementioned)  nearly  twenty  hours  ; 
when  we  halted,  Sa-ni  tsa-rish  went  up  to  him  and  spoke 
a few  words,  upon  which,  without  rest  or  food,  he  tight- 
ened the  belt  round  his  middle  and  set  off  at  a run,  which 
he  must  have  maintained  for  upwards  of  twenty  miles  ; 
he  had  to  traverse  the  same  ground  in  coming  back,  and 
thus  (reckoning  our  progress  on  a forced  march  at  only 
three  miles  an  hour)  he  must  have  gone  over  one  hun- 
dred miles  of  ground  without  food  or  rest  in  twenty-four 
hours.  At  length  he  returned,  bringing  with  him  the  wel- 
come intelligence  that  we  were  not  more  than  twenty 
miles  behind,  and  the  no  less  welcome  accompaniment  of 
a bag  of  maize,  made  into  a kind  of  cold  porridge  : this 
was,  indeed,  a treat,  and  appeared  tome  as  excellent  a 
dish  as  ever  I tasted  ; under  ordinary  circumstances,  it 
would  not  have  been  thought  very  tempting.  Again  we 
pushed  forward,  and  in  about  six  hours  came  up  with  the 
rear-guard,  among  whom  were  the  great  chief  of  the 
Grand  Pawnees,  the  great  chief  of  the  Tapages  Paw- 
nees, and  the  great  chief  of  the  Republicans,  called  by 
the  French  Copot-bleu* 

A circle  was  made,  consisting  of  all  the  chiefs,  when 
we  were  formally  introduced  by  the  interpreter,  shook 
handi> f with  them  all,  and  were  presented  with  the  pipe 
of  hospitality.  I remarked  the  wonderful  self-posses- 
sion of  these  men,  who  are  in  fact  the  most  curious  and 
inquisitive  in  the  world  ; and  yet,  on  the  return  of  their 
party  from  the  settlements,  laden  with  all  the  articles 

* In  a camp-march,  the  principal  chief  generally  remains  on  the  en- 
campment till  all  the  rest  have  moved  off;  partly  to  see  that  nothing  is 
left  or  lost,  partly  to  take  care  that  none  of  his  party  stay  or  loiter,  and 
chiefly  to  see  that  the  rear-guard  do  their  duty,  as  it  is  from  that  quarter 
that  their  enemies  generally  attack  them.  At  this  time  the  Pawnees 
were  upon  hostile  terms  with  the  Shiennes  and  Ricaras,  and  bands 
of  both  these  tribes  were  hunting  at  no  great  distance. 

t It  is  needless  to  mention  that  they  learn  this  from  whites,  and  prac. 
$ise  it  only  towards  whites. 

Vol.  I. — R 


194 


FRIENDLY  RECEPTION. 


which  they  prize  most  highly,  not  the  slightest  express 
sion  of  surprise,  pleasure,  or  interest  is  apparent ; brother 
met  brother,  and  father  met  son,  with  the  well  known 
short  and  simple  universal  Indian  greeting,  which  no 
language  can  give  in  writing,*  and  no  observer  could 
have  known  that  their  absence  had  been  of  two  days’ 
duration. 

In  return  for  their  friendly  reception,  and  in  consum- 
mation of  the  alliance,  I gave  them  a weak  glass  of 
brandy  and  water  all  round  ; they  seemed  quite  pleased, 
though  I could  not  help  thinking  what  a wry  face  Jack, 

on  board  H.  M.  S. , would  have  made,  if  the  said 

ten-water  grog  had  been  served  out  to  him  in  a cup  hold- 
ing less  than  a quarter  of  a pint.  It  is  so  well  known, 
that  as  soon  as  any  Indian  tribe  becomes  accustomed  to 
whiskey,  their  speedy  and  lotal  degradation  in  every 
physical  and  moral  quality  is  a sure  consequence,  that 
the  United  States  have  very  properly  forbidden  all  their  j 
troops  and  traders  to  sell  them  spirttous  liquors  under  a 
heavy  penalty  ; in  spite  of  this  law,  however,  a great 
quantity  of  whiskey  finds  its  way  to  those  Indians  who 
have  much  commerce  with  the  whites  ; the  temptation 
is  too  strong  for  the  traders,  many  of  whom  are  Canadian 
French,  and  men  without  either  principle  or  education  ; 
they  frequently  get  opporlun  ties  of  selling  a pint  of 
spirits  for  fifiy  or  a hundred  times  its  value  in  beaver 
and  other  skins ; the  craving  of  the  savages  increases  in  I 
propoition  to  their  acquaintance  with  this  fatal  liquor, 
and  they  will  part  with  anything  they  have  for  a dram. 

I found  that  very  few  of  the  Pawnees  had  ever  tasted  ^ 
whiskey,  and  still  few>er  expressed  any  strong  desire  or 
liking  for  it;  1,  therefore,  felt  it  mv  duty,  both  towards  I 
myself  and  the  authorities  of  the  United  States,  under 
whose  protection  I was  making  my  tour,  not  to  be  in  the 
smallest  degree  instrumental  in  giving  the  Pawnees  a 
relish  for  a liquor  which  becomes  in  their  hands  no- 
thing less  than  a poison.  Accordingly,  whenever  I gave 

* The  nearest  legible  approach  to  this  exclamation  is  the  common  1 
English  word  “ How,”  only  uttered  with  a strong  aspirate,  and  in  a 
iono  resembling  as  mu<;h  as  possible  a grunt. 


INDIAN  VILLAGE. 


195 


a brandy  and  water  draught  to  any  of  the  chiefs,  which 
I did  very  rarely,  I took  care  to  make  it  so  extremely 
weak  that  the  spirit  could  scarcely  be  tasted,  and  they 
were  sufficiently  pleased  with  the  honour  of  drinking  the 
white  man’s  liquor. 

It  was  not  a little  amusing  to  see  how  readily  the  Paw- 
nee-French interpreter  entered  into  my  views  on  this 
subject.  I once  or  twice  lent  him  my  small  pocket 
flask,  and  allowed  him  to  serve  out  the  weak  toddy  to 
the  chiefs;  he  talked  most  gravely  of  the  pernicious  ef- 
fects of  spirits  among  “ les  suava^es”  carefully  mixed 
for  them  at  least  nine  proportions  of  water  for  one  of 
brandy,  and,  then,  with  equal  gravity,  helped  himself  to  a 
dram,  in  which  he  exactly  reversed  the  aforesaid  propor- 
tions. 

As  soon  as  this  introductory  feast  was  concluded,  we 
accompanied  the  chiefs  to  the  village,  which  was  about 
twelve  miles  a-head  of  us;  at  lengih  we  came  in  sight 
of  it,  and  a more  interesting  or  picturesque  scene  I never 
beheld.  Upon  an  extensive  prairie  gently  sloping  down 
to  a creek,  the  winding  course  of  which  was  marked  by 
a broken  line  of  wood  here  and  there  interspersed  with 
a fine  clump  of  trees,  were  about  five  thousand  savages, 
inclusive  of  women  and  children  ; some  were  silting 
under  their  buffalo-skin  lodges  lazily  smoking  their 
pipes  ; while  the  women  were  stooping  over  their  fires 
busily  employed  in  preparing  meat  and  maize  for  these 
indolent  lords  of  the  creation.  Far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  were  scattered  herds  of  horses,  watched  (or  as  we 
would  say  in  Scotland,  “ tented  ”)  by  urchins,  whose 
whole  dress  and  equipment  was  the  slight  bow  and  arrow, 
with  which  they  exercised  their  infant  archery  upon  the 
heads  of  the  taller  flowers,  or  upon  any  luckless  black- 
bird perched  near  them.  Here  and  there  might  be  seen 
some  gay  young  warrior  ambling  along  the  heights,  his 
painted  form  partially  exposed  to  view  as  his  bright 
scarlet  blanket  waved  in  the  breeze ; while  his  small 
fretful  horse  was  scarcely  to  be  recognized  under  the 
variety  of  trappings  with  which  the  vanity  of  his  rider 
had  tricked  him  out  ; near  him  might  be  seen  another 
naked  savage,  without  a saddle,  and  his  only  bridle  a 


396 


THE  CHIEF  AND  HIS  FAMILY. 

\ 

thong  round  the  horse’s  head,  gallopingat  full  speed,  and 
waving  in  his  extended  right  hand  a “ laiyette,”  with 
which  he  was  chasing  some  refractory  mule  or  runaway 
steed,  that  had  escaped  from  his  gang  : while  the  banks 
of  the  stream  were  alive  with  the  garrulous  voices  of 
women,  some  washing  themselves,  their  clothes,  or  their 
infants,  others  carrying  water  to  the  camp,  and  others 
bearing  on  their  backs  a load  of  wood,  the  portage  of 
which  no  London  coal-heaver  would  have  envied  them. 

Our  approach  excited  some  curiosity  and  interest. 
The  families  of  those  who  had  been  to  the  fort  placed 
themselves  in  or  near  our  path  ; and  as  the  husband, 
father,  or  brother,  came  near,  the  little  kindred  group 
would  withdraw  to  a retired  spot  and  indulge  thoso  feel- 
ings of  curiosity  and  affection,  which  nature  has  implant- 
ed as  strongly  in  the  bosom  of  the  savage  as  of  the 
civilized  man.  I regarded  with  much  pleasure  the 
meeting  of  my  old  chief,*  Sa-nf-tsa-rish,  with  his  wives 
and  children,  which  took  place  under  a knot  of  fine  trees, 
a little  to  the  right  of  our  path.  I could  read  in  the 
glistening  eyes  of  the  women,  and  in  the  glad  laces  of 
the  children,  that  the  old  man  was  a kind  husband  and 
father;  and,  if  the  features  of  the  parties  had  not  been 
so  totally  devoid  of  anything  like  beauty,  the  family-pic- 
ture would  have  been  as  picturesque  as  it  was  interest- 
ing. The  old  chief  himself  is  one  of  the  finest-looking 
men  of  his  tribe,  but  his  wives  were  extremely  plain, 
and  very  slovenly  and  dirty  in  their  appearance  ; while 
the  poor  little  children,  besides  their  equally  distant 
claims  to  cleanliness,  were  suffering  under  the  small-pox 
and  hooping-cough ; nevertheless,  as  he  stood  among 
them,  and  gave  to  one  a few  beads,  to  another  a ribbon, 
and  exhibited  to  them  various  trifles  brought  from  the 
white  man’s  dwelling,  I would  not  envy  the  heart  of  any 
man  who  could  have  looked  upon  the  little  group  with 
any  other  feelings  than  those  of  pleasure  and  interest.  I 

* As  the  lodge,  or  tent,  of  the  chiefs  was  not  large  enough  to  admit 
us  all  into  one,  it  was  agreed  on  the  road  that,  during  our  stay  at  the 
village,  I and  my  servant  should  remain  with  Sa-nl-tsa-rish  ; while 

V and  the  other  attendant  should  be  the  gu.ests  of  Pe-te-re  sha* 

one  of  the  chiefs  of  the  Grand  Pawnees,  and  the  eldest  son  of  the 
great  chief. 


BUFFALO  MEAT. 


197 


soon  began  to  play  with  the  children,  and,  though  my 
first  advances  were  received  with  the  utmost  shyness  and 
alarm,*  they  summoned  courage  at  length  to  examine  my 
buttons,  my  pistols,  aud  other  articles  new  to  them,  and 
ere  long  our  acquaintance -was  established  upon  a footing 
approaching  to  confidence. 

As  soon  as  our  arrival  was  known  in  the  village,  we 
were  invited  to  six  or  seven  feasts  in  succession ; and 
here  we  tasted  buffalo  meat  for  the  first  time.  No  cows 
had  yet  been  seen,  and  the  bull-beef  was  as  hard,  tough, 
and  stringy  (besides  being  only  quarter  dressed)  as  ever 
it  fell  to  the  lot  of  human  jaw  to  masticate.  In  vain 
might  a set  of  the  finest  civilized  teeth  that  were  ever 
fostered  by  the  care  of  Messrs.  Dumergue  and  Cart- 
wright, endeavour  to  separate  the  indissoluble  fibres  ; 
the  vain  attempt  is  soon  given  up  in  despair,  and  the  un- 
broken mass  is  submitted  to  the  gastric  juice,  which 
fortunately  asserts  and  proves  the  inexhaustible  resources 
of  nature,  by  disposing,  without  inconvenience,  of  that 
which  proved  too  strong  an  opponent  for  ivory  ! Of 
course  this  must  not  be  taken  as  a fair  representation  of 
buffalo  meat  in  general ; because  the  ribs,  and  the  back, 
especially  the  hump,  are,  if  properly  dressed,  as  sweet, 
tender,  and  delicious  beef  as  the  most  delicate  epicure 
could  desire  ; and  both  the  fat  and  marrow  are  certainly 
finer  than  those  of  any  domestic  cattle  ; but  that  it  is  a 

* Nature  appears  to  have  divided  the  white  from  the  red  man  by  a 
species  of  antipathy  scarcely  reconcilable  with  the  benignity  and  sym- 
pathies which  are  usually  found  in  her  provisions.  An  Indian  infant 
cannot  endure  the  approach  or  sight  of  a white  man,  neither  can  the  in- 
fant of  a white  look  without  terror  upon  an  Indian.  In  walking  quietly 
through  the  Pawnee  camp,  I have  often  found  myself  the  innocent 
cause  of  the  cries  and  screams  of  at  least  twenty  of  these  little  alarm- 
ists, though  I may  not  have  passed  nearer  than  thirty  yards  from  some 
of  them.  Nor  is  this  most  strongly-marked  aversion  confined  to  the 
human  race  : Indian  horses  cannot  bear  the  smell  of  a white  man.  I 
have  repeatedly  seen  them,  when  standing  quietly  by  their  owner,  prick 
up  their  ears  and  snort  at  my  approach,  and  no  coaxing  would  induce 
them  to  let  me  come  near  or  touch  their  bridle.  Nor  was  I more  ap- 
proved of  by  the  dogs,  for  whenever  I or  my  companion  walked  about 
the  village,  we  had  a retinue  of  these  curs  barking  and  snarling  at  our 
heels;  and  if  they  had  not  fortunately  been  as  cowardly  as  they  were 
noisy,  we  might  have  experienced  serious  inconvenience  from  their 
persecution. 

R* 


198 


ORDER  OP  MARCH. 


fair  and  unexaggerated  picture  of  buffalo  bull  meat,  as 
dressed  (or  rather  undressed)  by  the  Pawnees,  I do  most 
positively  asseit.* 

On  arriving  before  Sa-ni-tsa-rish’s  lodge,  which  was 
destined  to  be  my  abode  for  many  weeks,  I naturally 
cast  my  eyes  around  to  observe  its  construction  and  ar- 
rangements. The  result  may  be  given  in  a few  words, 
but  the  description  will  be  more  satisfactory  and  more 
easily  comprehended  if  it  embraces  the  pitching  of  the 
Pawnee  tent,  or  “dodge,”  as  it  is  usually  termed  in  the 
West. 

On  reaching  the  camping-place,  which  is  selected  by 
the  grand  chief  (or,  in  his  absence,  by  the  next  in  rank), 
the  senior  squaw  chooses  the  spot  most  agreeable  to  her 
fancy,  and  orders  the  younger  women  and  children,  who 
lead  the  pack-horses  and  mules  (generally  from  five  to 
ten  in  number,  according  to  the  size  or  wealth  of  the 
family),  to  hah  ; but  in  making  this  choice  of  ground, 
she  is  restricted  within  certain  limits,  and  tho.se  of  no 
great  extent,  as  the  Pawnees  observe  great  regularity 
both  in  iheir  line  of  march  and  encampment.  1 could 
not  ascertain  whether  these  regulations  were  invariable, 
or  made  at  the  pleasure  of  the  chief;  but  I believe  the 
latter;  and  that  on  leaving  their,  winter,  or  staiionary, 
villages,  he  issues  the  general  orders  on  this  subject, 
which  are  observed  during  the  season  or  the  expedition  ; 
at  any  rate,  they  never  varied  during  my  stay  among 
them. 

They  move  in  three  parallel  bodies;  the  left  wing 
consisting  of  part  of  the  Grand  Pawnees  and  the  Tapages ; 
the  centre  of  the  remaining  Grand  Pawnees  ; and  the 
right  of  the  Republicans,  it  is  needless  to  say  that  these 
names  of  the  different  Pawnee  tribes  are  given  by  the 
French  traders  according  to  their  absurd  fancies  ; but  the 
Indian  appellations  by  which  the  Tapages  ( Republiques ), 

* I beg  here  to  remind  the  reader  once  for  all,  that  the  animal  called 
throughout  this  expedition  the  Buffalo,  is,  properly  speaking,  the  Bison 
(Bos  Taurus) ; but  I retain  the  incorrect  appellative,  because  it  is  gene- 
rally and  familiarly  so  employed  in  Norlh  America.  In  strict  language, 
the  Buffalo  is  the  Bos  Babylus,  the  horns  of  which  animal  are  turned 
backward  behind  its  head  : it  is  too  well  known  in  Italy  and  other 
countries  to  require  farther  description. 


ORDER  OF  MARCH. 


199 


&c.,  are  known,  could  convey  no  idea  of  distinction,  and 
consequently  I shall  adhere  to  those  by  which  they  are 
known  through  the  Missouri  country.  For  the  informa- 
tion of  curious  philologists  I will,  however,  add,  that  in 
the  Pawnee  language,  the  Grand  Pawnees  are  called 
Tsa-we;  the  Republican  band,  Tskit-ka-kish  ; the  Ta- 
page  band,  Pe-towe-ra ; and  the  Loups,  or  Pawnee- 
Mahas  (who  parted  from  us  when  we  crossed  the  Re- 
publican Fork),  are  called  Ske-re.* 

All  these  bodies  move  in  “ Indian  file,”  though  of 
course  in  the  mingled  mass  of  men,  women,  children, 
and  pack-horses,  it  was  not  very  regularly  observed  ; 
nevertheless,  on  arriving  at  the  halting-place,  the  party  to 
which  I belonged  invariably  camped  at  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  the  village,  the  great  chief  in  the  centre,  and 
the  Republiques  on  the  western  side ; and  this  arrange* 
merit  was  kept  so  well,  that,  after  I had  been  a few  days 
with  them,  after  I had  been  a few  days  with  them,  I 
could  generally  find  our  lodge  in  a new  encampment 
with  very  little  trouble,  although  the  village  consisted  of 
about  six  hundred  of  them,  all  nearly  similar  in  appear- 
ance. 

Now,  to  return  to  our  squaws,  whom  we  left  in  the  act 
of  preparing  to  pitch  the  tent.  They  first  unpack  and  un- 
saddle the  horses,  which  are  given  to  a boy  to  drive  off  to 
their  grass  and  water:  they  then  arrange  all  their  bales, 
saddles,  &c.,  in  a semicircular  form,  and  pile  them  from 
two  to  three  feet  high.  Around  the  exterior  of  these 
they  drive  into  the  ground  eight  or  ten  curved  willow 
rods,  from  two  to  three  feet  distant  from  each  other,  but 
all  firmly  bound  by  leather  thongs  to  four  large  upright 
poles,  that  form  the  front  of  the  lodge,  and  along  which 
iun  transverse  willow  rods,  to  which  the  extremities  of 
the  curved  ones  are  fastened.  When  the  frame,  or  ske- 
leton, is  thus  finished,  they  stretch  the  cover  (made  of 
buffalo  hides,  sewed  together)  tight  over  the  whole, 
leaving  an  aperture  for  entrance  and  egress  in  the  cen- 

* Once  for  all  I beg  the  reader  to  remember  that,  in  endeavouring  to 
convey  Indian  words  in  writing,  the  vowels,  accents,  &c.,  which  I 
employ  are  those  of  the  French  language,  as  they  can  be  made  more 
nearly  to  resemble  the  Indian  pronunciation  than  the  English. 


200 


ARMORIAL  BEARINGS. 


tre  of  the  front;  and  in  fine  weather,  the  whole  front 
open. 

This  an  accurate  description  of  a Pawnee  summer- 
lodge  ; but,  of  course,  the  dimensions  vary  according  to 
the  number  and  wealth  of  the  families  residing  therein: 
in  some  tents  I have  observed  the  front  consisting  of  six 
or  eight  upright  poles,  to  which  were  fixed  more  skins 
for  additional  shelter  or  shade.  On  the  grass,  in  the  in- 
terior, are  spread  mats,  made  by  the  squaws  from  reeds, 
and  skins  of  buffalo  or  bear. 

From  the  foregoing  it  will  he  easily  understood  that  the 
bales  of  cloth,  maize,  skins,  and  whatever  olher  property 
they  .possess,  form  the  back  of  the  tent.  Each  occupant, 
from  the  chief  to  the  lowest  in  rank,  has  his  assigned 
place  ; sleeps  upon  his  own  blanket,  or  buffalo  robe  ; 
has  his  bow  and  quiver  suspended  over  his  head ; his 
saddle,  bridle,  and  laryettes,  &c.,  behind  his  back  : and 
thus  little  confusion  prevails,  although  each  individual 
has  only  just  room  to  sit  or  lie  at  full  length. 

Before  the  tent  a kind  of  shield  is  raised,  upon  three 
poles  pyramidically  placed,  on  which  is  the  device  of 
the  chief,  by  which  his  tent  is  to  be  recognized.  Let 
not  the  Heralds’  College  imagine  that  the  use  of  “armo- 
rial bearings  ” is  confined  to  the  descendants  of  Norman 
barons,  or  of  European  or  Moorish  chivalry  ! The  Gael 
of  the  highlands  of  Scotland  is  as  proud  of  his  clan-sprig 
of  heather,  holly,  or  juniper;  and  the  Pawnee  of  his- 
beaver-skin,  bunch  of  feathers,  or  quiver,  shield-device,  as 
the  Douglas  of  his  bleeding  heart,  or  the  Percy  and  Tal- 
bot of  their  threatening  monarch  of  the  woods.  How 
often  are  we  brought  thus  to  bow  before  the  throne  of 
Nature  ! and  the  proudest  and  most  polished  of  her  chil- 
dren are  made  to  acknowledge  and  feel  their  affinity  to 
the  most  savage  and  unenlightened,  by  the  wants,  the 
desires,  the  failings,  and  vanities,  which  are  common  to 
them  all. 

In  the  interior  of  the  tent,  and  generally  about  the 
centre  of  its  concave,  is  suspended  the  “ medicine, 
which  is  most  carefully  and  religiously  preserved.  If  this 
word  “ medicine  ” (as  it  is  used  by  the  French  and  In- 
dian traders,  with  all  the  western  and  southern  Indians,)  ist 


MEDICINE. 


201 


Only  half  as  vague,  unsatisfactory,  and  mysterious  to  any 
luckless  wight,  whose  evil  genius  has  imposed  upon  him 
the  task  of  reading  these  pages,  as  it  is  to  me , (and  I 
might  add  to  the  Indians  themselves,)  let  him  not  hope 
to  find  any  farther  elucidation  of  the  riddle,  nor  attempt 
to  fathom  this  verbal  and  ideal  chaos.  Under  the  head 
of  “ medicine,”  the  Indians  comprise  not  only  its  own 
healing  department,  but  everything  connected  with  reli- 
gion or  superstition  ; all  omens,  all  relics,  and  everything 
extraordinary  or  supernatural.  Thus,  in  one  Indian  lan- 
guage, the  Deity  is  called  the  “ Big-Medicine-Man  the 
horse  (which  animal  was  once  an  object  of  their  terror 
and  astonishment,  vide  “ Conquest  of  Florida,”  &c.),  the 
“medicine-quadruped  and  in  another,  a gun  is  called  a 
“ medicine-weapon.”  Among  the  Pawnees,  the  priests 
and  doctors,  and  all  the  medicine  department,  have  their 
respective  offices  and  tents.  Part  of  the  buffalo  meat,  is 
always  set  apart  for  the  medicine  (theoretically,  to  be 
consecrated  to  the  Great  Spirit ; practically , to  be  eaten 
up  by  these  charlatans,  like  Baal’s  priests  of  old.)  Then 
there  are  medicine-flags,  medicine-pipes,  medicine-robes, 
medicine-ceremonies;  and,  lastly,  the  medicine-bag, 
wherein  are  contained  arrow-heads,  with  which  their  fa- 
thers have  killed  a foe,  scalps,  and  any  other  similarly 
precious  ancestral  relics.* 

In  this  tent  I now  established  myself,  spread  my  bear- 
skin, hung  up  my  rifle  ; and,  with  my  saddlebags  for  a 
pillow,  prepared  for  the  “ coming  ori  of  grateful  eve- 
ning mild.”  It  is  not  easy,  in  a situation  so  curious 
and  strange,  to  court  “ tired  nature’s  sweet  restorer.” 
Moreover,  I found  that  among  the  Pawnees,  Silence  was 
not  among  the  Goddesses  of  the  night, — imprimis,  the 
two  children  in  the  tent  were  extremely  lli  with  the 
hooping-cough  ; besides  which,  they  were  very  ill-tem- 
pered, and  both  completely  spoiled;  so  that  sometimes 
they  were  uttering  the  groans  and  cries  of  real  suffering, 
at  others,  would  scream  with  the  utmost  power  of  their 
lungs,  till  their  mother  rose,  and  gave  them  anything 

* For  farther  information  regarding  the  “ medicine,”  the  reader  is 
referred  to  the  Appendix. 


202 


DOGS. 


they  might  fancy.  In  the  second  place,  the  loquacity  of 
the  ladies  knew  no  bounds;  and  ihey  seemed  determined 
to  indemnify  themselves  for  the  temporary  silence  which 
the  labours  of  the  day  imposed  upon  them.  My  ear  was 
just  becoming  accustomed  to  these  shrill  and  varied  vi- 
brations of  the  human  tongue,  and  1 was  just  about  to  fall 
asleep,  when  I was  aroused  by  a distant  howl,  as  I thought, 
of  a wolf.  It  came  on  nearer  and  nearer,  and  louder  and 
louder,  till  at  length  the  wild,  tumultuous,  and  many-min- 
gled  cry  swelled  into  such  a volume  of  sound  as  it  is  impos- 
sible to  describe,  and  if  f could  describe  it,  1 could  scarcely 
expect  it  to  obtain  credence.  But  first,  let  any  doubter 
recall  to  mind  some  night  when  he  may  have  been  sleep- 
less and  feverish, — perhaps  a chained  watch-dog  began 
to  “ bay  the  moon,”  and  perhaps  some  canine  neighbours 
caught  up  and  prolonged  the  strain, — and  he  may  re- 
member the  musical  effect  produced  by  this  serenade  ! 
Now  let  me  inform  him,  that  in  our  village  there  were 
more  than  six  hundred  tents,  and  that  each  tent  owned, 
upon  an  average,  seven  dogs,  so  that  there  were  upwards 
of  four  thousand  dogs  in  the  encampment,  all  of  them 
mongrels  and  curs,  very  slightly  differing  from  the  wolf 
in  appearance,  and  scarcely  at  all  in  voice.  In  this 
nightly  howl  they  all  join  (at  least,  of  all  those  round  our 
tent,  I could  not  see  one  exception  : ) and,  having  now 
faithfully  described  the  cause , it  is  needless  to  suggest, 
even  to  the  most  sluggish  imagination,  the  grand  effect 
of  a dog-chorus,  at  midnight,  in  the  Pawnee  village  1 


LAVATORY  IN  THE  PRAIRIE. 


203 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Lavatory  in  the  Prairie. — Picturesque  Scene. — A “ Brave.”-— Quarrel 
with  him. — Desolate  Prairie. — Prairie  Doos  — Owls  and  Rattlesnakes. 
— First  View  of  Buffalo. — Chase  of  Buffalo. — Indian  Butchery. — 
Horses  stolen  bv  the  Ricaras.- — Indian  Method  of  Horse-stealing. — 
Discussion  as  to  the  expediency  of  making  Reprisals. — Present  of  a 
Buffalo  Robe. — Indian  Character. — A Feast. — Indian  Curiosity. 

Not  being  yet  thoroughly  drilled  to  a prairie  life,  I 
had  not  learned  lo  consider  cleanliness  as  a useless  and 
superogatory  luxury;  and,  accordingly,  after  sleeping  in 
my  clothes,  in  the  midst  of  a scene  too  dirty  to  depict, 
where  we  were  as  closely  packed  as  the  horses  in  a 
stage-coach  stable,  I was  weak  enough  to  imagine  that 
it  was  desirable  to  wash  my  hands  and  face,  and  change 
my  linen.  Such  notions  being  quite  exploded  among 
experienced  travellers,  I am  almost  ashamed  to  own 
them  ; but  candour  demands  the  sacrifice,  and  I trust  my 
brother  prairie-men  will  remember  that  prejudice  once 
acknowledged,  is  more  than  half  overcome.  According- 
ly, I armed  myself  with  a towel,  some  soap,  a tooth- 
brush, and  a clean  shirt,  and  sallied  forth  in  search  of 
the  creek,  the  banks  of  which  were  to  be  my  dressing- 
room  on  the  occasion. 

I found  it  to  be  a muddy  streamlet,  from  four  to  eight 
inches  deep,  having  neither  brushwood  nor  timber  to 
mark  its  eourse.  It  was  completely  alive  with  animal 
industry,  which  seemed  all  exercised  in  endeavouring  to 
make  it  more  and  more  turbid  and  muddy.  Women 
washing  their  children  and  their  blankets  ; boys  and  girls 
splashing ; dogs  swimming,  and  horses  tramping  in 
every  direction. 

As  this  did  not  seem  a favourable  spot  for  the  bath 
and  toilet  of  one  who  can  boast,  of  having,  in  his 
day,  made  a respectable  appearance  in  Bond-street,  I 
walked  above  a mile  up  the  little  stream,  in  hopes  of 
y finding  a place  less  pre-occupied  by  my  biped  and  quad- 


204 


PICTURESQUE  SCENE. 


ruped  competitors  in  ablution.  Finding  this  attempt 
fruitless,  and  seeing  that  the  “ ladies  ” were  not  at  all 
afraid  of  me,  I determined  not  to  evince  let-s  courage  ; and 
putting  my  watch,  my  knife,  my  mauvaise  horde,  and 
other  trifles  in  my  pocket,  proceeded  quietly  to  undress; 
and  having  bathed  for  a few  minutes,  proceeded  with  my 
toilet.  I ought  to  mention  that  I effected  this  bath  by 
lying  down  and  rolling  where  the  water  was  about  nine 
inches  deep.  1 was  about  half  dressed  before  I experi- 
enced any  positive  interruption,  when  two  or  three  Indians 
came  up,  and  began  to  examine  every  article  of  my  toilet 
with  the  grealest  curiosity.  They  could  not  make  out 
the  use  of  the  tooth-brush  ; and  when  I explained  to  them 
that  it  was  to  “ sharpen  the  teeth”  they  expressed  their 
wonder  by  the  well-known  “ Ugh  !”  They  were  equally 
at  a loss  to  make  out  the  use  of  the  soap*  and  other 
things,  which  they  took  out  of  my  pocket.  At  length  I 
got  so  tired  of  their  handling  my  clothes,  that  I forbade 
them  to  do  so  any  more,  and  they  desisted. 

On  mv  return  to  the  camp  1 found  all  the  lodges  struck, 
the  horses  packed,  and  everything  ready  for  marching. 
Mv  worthy  host  had  desired  his  women  to  pack  the 
greater  part  of  my  baggage  ; I had  obtained  the  loan  of 
a horse,  and  thus  1 was  enabled  to  give  a day’s  rest  to 
my  jaded  steeds.  I watched  this  great  moving  body  of 
savages  as  they  left  the  rising  ground  on  which  we  had 
been  encamped,  and  deployed  on  the  plain  into  the  three 
irregular  straggling  columns  which  formed  their  line  of 
march.  The  scene  was  picturesque  in  the  extreme,  and 
was  every  minute  diversified  by  amusing  or  interesting 
incidents.  In  the  spaces  between  the  columns  rode  the 
chiefs  and  the  younger  warriors,  decked  out  in  all  their 

* This  word  reminds  me  of  the  mischievous  trick  played  by  our 
young  American  lad,  who  was  one  day  washing  with  some  strong  coarse 
soap,  when  an  Indian  came  up,  complaining  of  very  sore  eyes,  and  asked 
hin  if  the  snap  was  good  for  them.  He  said  it  was  very  good,  and 
showed  him  by  signs  that  he  should  rub  it  well  in  below  the  lids,  which 
the  fndian  accordingly  did;  of  course  the  pain  and  smarting  were  ex- 
treme, and  he  jumped  about  apparently  not  at  all  pleased  with  the  re- 
medy. I'owever,  it  made  his  eyes  water  very  much  for  ten  minutes, 
afterward  relieved  the  inflammation  ; and  he  returned  to  his  friends 
praise  the  great  skill  of  the  Salicks-t&-k&  (white  man.) 


205 


A “BRAVE.” 

gayest  habiliments,  with  white,  blue,  or  scarlet  blankets, 
and  making  their  fidgety  little  horses  prance  and  curvet 
to  show  the  rider’s  horsemanship. 

Near  them  was  a dignified-looking  “ Brave,”  ambling 
slowly  along;  his  only  ornament  the  much-envied  collar 
made  from  the  claws  of  the  formidable  grisly  bear.  Here 
and  there  were  scattered  groups  of  boys,  shooting  at  birds, 
or  any  trifling  object  within  their  reach  ; and  sometimes 
a refractory  mule  or  untamed  coll  would  gallop  out  from 
the  line,  plunge  and  kick  till  he  had  eased  himself  of  his 
burthen,  nor  return  to  a sense  of  his  duty  till  two  or  three 
mounted  Indians  had  given  him  proof  wilh  their  lar- 
yettes,  of  the  superior  power  and  address  of  man. 

I had  a little  quarrel  wilh  the  “ Brave  ” abovemen^ 
tioned,  which  is  worth  recording,  as  illustrative  of  In- 
dian character.  I mentioned,  a few  pages  back,  that  on 
the  journey  I had  sold  a tired  horse  for  the  loan  of  a fresh 
one  till  we  reached  the  Pawnee  village.  This  “Brave” 
was  the  man  wilh  whom  I had  made  the  bargain,  and  I 
told  the  interpreter  io  make  him  distinctly  understand 
1 hat  he  was  to  have  mv  broken-down  nag,  and  might  do 
as  he  pleased,  either  in  leaving  him  to  rest  and  recover, 
or  endeavouring  to  make  him  travel  ; but  that  I had  no- 
thing more  to  do  with  it  than  to  put  a certain  portion 
of  my  baggage  on  his  fresh  horse  till  we  reached  the 
village.. 

This  bargain  having  been  made,  he  chose  to  force  on 
the  tired  horse,  and  a day  or  two  afterward,  the  interpre- 
ter came  and  told  me  that  it  had  stopped  altogether,  and 
that  the  “Brave”  would  not  let  me  have  his  any  more, 
as  he  wanted  it  himself.  This  piece  of  impudent 
roguery  was  too  glaring  to  be  allowed,  and  I determined  to 
resist  it,  having  heard  and  learned  that  if  Indians  per- 
ceive any  weakness  or  simplicity  in  a white  man,  they 
will  take  every  opportunity  of  cheating  and  insulting  him. 
Accordingly,  I told  the  interpreter  that  “ he  had  been 
himself  the  medium  through  which  the  bargain  had  been 
struck,  and  that  if  the  jaded  horse  stopped,  or  even  died 
on  the  road,  I was  entitled  to,  and  would  keep  the  fresh 
one  till  we  reached  the  village.”  He  reconsulted  the 
“ Brave,”  who  was  sitting  only  a few  yards  off,  and  re- 

Vol.  L— S 


206 


DESOLATE  PRAIRIE, 


turned  to  tell  me  that  the  Indian  did  not  understand  the 
terms  of  the  bargain  ; “ he  wanted  the  horse,  and  was 
determined  to  have  him.” 

This  was  not  a pleasant  predicament  to  be  in  among 
these  wild  fellows ; but  I knew  they  would  not  dare  to 
kill  me  openly,  under  the  circumstances  of  my  having 
been  placed  under  the  protection  of  their  chiefs,  and  I 
determined  accordingly  to  carry  my  point.  The  horse 
was  among  the  rest,  not  more  than  twenty  yards  from 
where  we  sat.  I got  up  quietly,  and  said  to  the  interpre- 
ter, “ You  know,  and  he  knows,  that  he  is  in  the  wrong. 
I shall  now  go  and  bridle  that  horse ; if  he  chooses  to  come 
and  try  to  take  him  from  me,  let  him  do  so  at  his  own 
risk.”  I accordingly  took  a laryette,  put  it  over  the 
horse’s  neck,  and  desired  my  servant  to  saddle  and  pack 
him  ; during  which  operation  I experienced  neither  hin- 
drance nor  interruption,  and  we  proceeded  peaceably  on 
our  journey.  The  “ Brave”  never  attempted  to  recover 
his  horse ; and,  in  justice  to  him,  I ought  to  add,  that  he 
never  appeared  to  bear  me  any  grudge  on  account  of  this 
little  breeze  ; on  the  contrary,  I believe  we  were  after- 
ward better  friends  than  if  I had  allowed  him  to  cheat 
me  ; and  I am  sure  I saved  myself  the  trouble  of  rebut- 
ting many  similar  attempls  at  imposition.  He  is  consi- 
dered one  of  the  most  distinguished  Braves  of  the 
nation,  having  killed  two  or  three  men  and  two  grisly 
bears. 

I joined  the  chiefs  in  the  central  interval,  and  amused 
myself  by  observing  the  scene  around,  and  by  endeavour- 
ing to  increase  my  scanty  stock  of  Pawmee  language. 
rJ  he  prairie  through  which  we  now  travelled  was  barren 
and  desolate  ; however,  we  w'ere  cheered  by  finding  fresh 
tracks  of  buffalo,  and  the  ponds  or  mud-holes  in  which 
they  had  wallowed,  partly  to  refresh  themselves  from  the 
heat,  and  partly  to  escape  from  the  vexatious  attacks  of 
the  gadfly. 

In  this  waste  there  was  not  either  bird  or  beast  to  be 
seen,  except,  prairie  dogs.  I do  not  know  how  these  little 
animals  obtained  t his  absurd  appellation,  as  they  do  not 
bear  the  smallest  resemblance  to  the  canine  species, 
either  in  formation  or  habits.  In  size  they  vary  ex- 


PRAIRIE  DOGS. 


207 


tremely,  but  in  general  they  are  not  larger  than  a squir- 
rel, and  not  unlike  one  in  appearance,  except  that  they 
want  his  bushv  tail ; the  head  is  also  somewhat  rounder. 
They  burrow  under  the  light  soil,  and  throw  it  up  round 
the  entrance  to  their  dwelling  like  the  English  rabbit: 
on  this  little  mound  they  generally  sit,  chirping  and  chat- 
tering to  one  another  like  two  neighbour-gossips  in  a vil- 
lage. Their  number  is  incredible,  and  their  cities  (for  1 hey 
deserve  no  less  a name)  full  of  activity  and  bustle.  I do 
not  know  what  their  occupations  are;  but  I have  seen  them 
constantly  running  from  one  hole  to  another,  although 
they  do  not  ever  pay  any  distant  visits.  They  seem,  on 
the  approach  of  danger,  always  to  retire  to  their  own 
home : but  their  great  delight  apparently  consists  in 
braving  it  with  the  usual  insolence  of  cowardice, 
when  secure  from  punishment;  for,  as  you  approach, 
they  wag  their  little  tails,  elevate  their  heads,  and  chat- 
ter at  vou  like  a monkey,  louder  and  louder  the  nearer 
you  come ; but  no  sooner  is  the  hand  raised  to  any  mis- 
sile, whether  gun,  arrow,  stick,  or  stone,  than  they  pop 
into  the  hole  with  a rapidity  only  equalled  by  that  sud- 
den disappearance  of  Punch,  with  which  I have  been, 
when  a child,  so  much  delighted  in  the  streets  and 
squares  of  London. 

I attempted  to  shoot  some,  having  been  told  that  they 
were  good  to  eat,  but  could  only  get  two,  although  I de- 
stroyed probably  five  times  that  number  ; for  they  always 
contrived  to  creep  or  fall  into  their  subterranean  fortress, 
and  make  it,  like  true  heroes,  their  grave.  The  two 
which  1 did  recover  were  too  small  to  cook,  and  I made 
a resolution  never  to  molest  the  little  wretches  again  with 
my  gun. 

The  whole  plain  was  also  covered  with  owls  ; each 
hole  seemed  to  be  the  residence  of  an  owl  and  a prairie 
dog ; and  this  apparently  discrepant  couple  lived  toge- 
ther united  in  the  bonds  ( not  of  matrimony)  but  of  friend- 
ship. I have  been  often  told  that  rattlesnakes  are  also 
admitted  into  the  same  dwelling,  but  to  the  truth  or  un- 
truth of  this  I cannot  speak  from  personal  observation.* 

* The  little  animal  here  described  is  called  by  Ord  and  other  western 


208 


BUFFALO  CHASE. 


On  the22d  my  long-cherished  curiosity  was  destined  to 
be  gratified  ;■  loud  and  deafening  cries  of  “ Tar  ah  a ! tara- 
ha  !”  (buffalo)  ran  from  one  end  of  the  line  to  the  other, 
and  all  became  bustle  and  confusion.  Some  young  men 
went  in  their  gayest  attire,  others  vaulted  naked  on  their 
unsaddled  horses ; in  all,  about  a thousand  sallied  forth 
in  search  of  the  enemy.  Many  false  reports  had  been 
spread  as  to  their  distance  and  locality,  so  that  we  had 
to  gallop  over  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  of  steep  and  undu- 
lating ground  before  we  came  up  with  their  rear-guard, 
consisting  of  thirty  or  forty  bulls,  bounding  after  their 
uncouth  fashion  along  the  side  of  a hill.  The  horses 
were  now  put  to  their  speed,  and  I soon  found  that  the 
pony  which  had  been  lent  me,  was  neither  strong  nor 
swift  enough  to  bear  me  in  such  a chase  ; and  having 
seen  a few  killed  about  two  hundred  yards  ahead  of  me, 
I gave  up  the  pursuit  in  despair,  and  determined  to  see 
how  they  disposed  of  the  slain,  as  I had  no  chance  of 
overtaking  the  living. 

I jumped  off  my  panting  pony,  and  went  to  the  nearest 
group,  where  the  ceremony  of  dissection  was  about  to 
take  place.  Two  or  three  Indians  were  round  the  fallen 
monster,  whose  life  was  scarcely  extinct,  whetting 
their  knives  on  their  moccasins  ; and  just  as  I arrived, 
they  began  to  take  off  the  skin.  It  is  needless  to 
detail  the  succeeding  operations  at  large ; but  I am 
confident  that,  from  the  time  the  first  incision  was  made 
till  the  whole  meat  was  cut  up,  packed,  and  strung 
upon  a horse,  fifteen  minutes  had  not  elapsed  ; and  ex- 
cept the  head,  there  was  not  enough  left  upon  the  ground 
to  feed  a dog.  They  were  not  provided  with  saw,  axe, 
or  cleaver,  nor  with  any  other  weapon  but  a common 
pointed  dinner-knife,  and  yet  they  had  carried  off  the 
brains,!  the  heart,  the  marrow,  and  liver ; the  greater 


naturalists,  the  Louisiana  Marmot,  or  Arctomys  ; the  owl  mentioned  is 
the  Coquimbo  owl,  the  same  as  the  species  found  in  South  America, 
with  similar  habits  of  burrowing  ( Striz  cunicutaria),  and  feeds  upon 
grasshoppers  and  insects.  The  rattlesnake,  which  is  said  sometimes  to 
join  company  with  this  singular  pair,  is  the  Cr&talus  tergeminus. — See 
“ Long’s  Expedition,”  vol.  i.  p.  499  ; vol.  ii.  p.  37. 

t In  case  any  knight  of  the  cleaver  should  doubt  my  assertion,  in  re- 
gard to  extracting  the  brains  of  a bull  without  any  heavy  metal  or  wood- 
en instrument,  I think  it  right  to  record  how  they  take  them,  and  why 


RICARAS. 


209 


portion  of  the  two  latter  they  ate  raw  upon  the  spot.  I 
was  then  surprised  and  horrified — I soon  grew  wiser. 

When  the  band  of  hunters  came  in,  at  night-fall,  it  ap- 
peared that  they  had  overtaken  a large  herd,  as  they 
brought  in  about  eighty  buffalo.  The  same  evening,  a 
runner  from  the  out-picquets*  came  round  the  tents  to 
give  t he  piihy  caution,  “ Men  have  been  seen  this  is 
a warning  that  a fresh  trail  has  been  found,  or  a glimpse 
caught  of  some  one,  who  disappeared  so  quickly  that 
they  could  not  determine  his  tribe.  A report  had  pre- 
vailed for  one  or  two  days  that  the  Ricaras  were  in  the 
neighbourhood.  Accordingly,  we  loaded  our  guns,  tied 
all  the  horses,  and  took  the  usual  precautions.  The  Ri- 
caras (or,  according  to  the  usual  French  mutilation  of 
names,  the  Rees  les  Ris)  are  a wild  and  warlike  tribe, 
famed  for  their  skill  in  horse-stealing.  They  roam 
chiefly  between  the  prairies  over  which  we  were  travel- 
ling, and  the  Rocky  Mountains.  They  are  a branch  of 
the  once  great  Pawnee  nation,  although  now  hostile  to 
them  ; but  their  languages  are  the  same  ; noram  I aware 
of  any  other  tribe  who  speak  a similar  tongue.  How- 
ever, if  they  contemplated  thieving  undiscovered,  one 
great  difficulty  was  removed  out  of  their  way,  namely, 
silence.  I never  heard  such  a continued  confusion  of 
sounds.  The  council  of  Pandaemonium,  or  the  tower  of 
Babel,  could  scarcely  equal  it.  Women  chattering, 
children  crying,  men  singing,  or  rather  yelling,  their  war- 
songs,  dogs  howling,  horses  neighing,  and  asses  braying  ! 
From  these  instruments  let  the  imagination  compose 
the  orchestra  to  which  I was  that  night  indebted  for 
music. 

Our  crafty  neighbours  did  not  neglect  the  opportunity 

they  take  them.  First,  they  break  and  cut  off  the  fore-leg  at  the  knee 
joints,  and  using  the  shank  as  a handle  and  the  hoof  as  a hammer,  by 
repeated  blows  they  break  through  the  frontal  bone.  The  purpose  of 
taking]  the  brains  is  to  render  the  skin  soft  and  pliant,  when  it  is  in  the 
course  of  being  prepared  as  a robe. 

* I observed  that  on  the  march,  and  during  their  night  encampment, 
the  Pawnees  always  had  out-posts  on  every  side  of  the  village.  Besides 
this  precaution,  a great  many  of  the  young  men  lie  in  their  blankets,  at 
a little  distance  from  it,  chanting  their  war  and  hunting'  songs  ; and 
they  prefer  sleeping  in  that  manner  to  the  confinement  of  their  tents. 

s* 


210 


HORSE  STEALING; 


liius  offered.  On  rising  in  the  morning,  we  heard  thafc 
a small  Ricara  party  had  carried  off  twenty-six  of  our 
horses  during  the  night,  including  two  of  mine,  one  of 
which  broke  away  from  them  and  returned  ; but  the 
other,  a venerable  gray,  remained  in  the  hands  of  the 
captors.* 

The  manner  in  which  they  steal  horses  is  as  follows  : 
^Two  or  three  men  approach  the  encampment,  cau- 
tiously, soon  after  night-fall,  and  take  advantage  of  any 
creek,  dell,  or  brushwood,  that  may  serve  to  conceal 
them  from  the  observation  of  the  out-piquets  ; if  they 
succeed  in  reaching  the  extremity  of  the  village  undis- 
covered, they  stand-up  and  walk  deliberately  through  it, 
wrapped  in  their  buffalo-  robe.  Of  course  they  can 
no  longer  be  distinguished  from  the  Pawnees  by  ihe 
faint  light  of  the  half  extinguished  fires;  and  as  they 
pass  the  groups  of  horses  collected  before  their  respec- 
tive owners’  lodges,  they  cut,  with  a sharp  knife,  the 
laryettes  which  fasten  those  that  they  purpose  to  carry 
off.  As  soon  as  they  have  loosened  the  required  number, 
each  man  jumps  upon  one*  and  they  drive  off  the  rest 
at  full  speed,  shaking  their  blankets,  and  urging  the 
alarmed  animals  to  their  utmost  exertions.  Of  course 
they  obtain  a considerable  start  of  any  pursuit ; and  if 
the  night  is  dark,  run  but  little  risk  of  being  overtaken. 

The  manner  of  securing  horses  on  the  prairie  against 
these  depredators  is  two-fold  : either  to  tie  them  by  a 
laryette,  passed  round  the  neck,  to  a peg  or  stake  driven 
firmly  into  the  ground;  or  to  “ hobble ” them,  which  is 
effected  by  tying  the  foie- legs  close  together  by  leather 

*Soon  after  oar  departure  from  the  fort,  our  American  lad,  who  was  a 
merry  wag,  named  the  different  pack-horses  and  mules  after  the  public 
men  of  the  day,  according  to  his- opinion  of  their  respective  merits  and 
qualities.  It  was  impossible  to  avoid  a smile  when  I overheard  some  of 
his  objurgations,  as  he  was  driving  them  up  in  the  rear:: — “Come  up, 
General  !”  “ Wo,  ho.  Van  Buren— .your  pack  is  all  on  one  side.”  “ Go 
it,  Henry  Clay — old  Kentuck  forever  !”  &c.  1 believe  it  was.  “ General 

Jackson”  that  remained  a Ricara  prisoner.  How  they  ever  succeeded 
in  making  him  move  I cannot  imagine,  as  all  our  instruments  of  per- 
suasion, from  a spur  to  a cowhide^  could  only  extract  a very  small  jog- 
trot. and  that  for  a short  time.  ' Nevertheless,  he  must  have  been  forced 
off  at.  some  speed,  as  a few  Pawnees  pursued  for  many  miles,  in  the 
iporning,  without  success. 


REPRISALS. 


211 


thongs  passed  round  them,  below  the  knee-joint.  This 
latter  is  the  safer  plan, ‘because  a thief  can  sometimes 
cut  the  laryette,  as  he  walks,  without  risk  of  observation  ; 
but  if  he  stoops  down  to  untie^  or  cut  a strong  leather 
thong  between  the  shins  of  a horse,  he  not  only  runs 
more  risk  of  alarming  the  animal,  but  incurs  suspicion 
from  any  one  who  may  happen  to  be  lying  awake  in  the 
neighbourhood,  fn  cases  where  there  is  a probability 
of  such  an  attempt,  it  is  better  both  to  tie  and  hobble 
them  ; a lesson  which  I learned  by  experience. 

On  the  following  day  the  chiefs  assembled,  and  sat 
in  council  many  hours,  probably  discussing  the  expe- 
diency of  reprisals.  Indeed,  the  subject  affords  a wide 
field  for  debate  ; as  the  United  States,  in  the  stipulation 
for  paying  the  annuities  for  ceded  lands,  exact  from  the 
Pawnees  that  they  shall  not  send  out  war  parlies  to  steal 
horses,  as  had  been  their  constant  practice  ; in  the  mean- 
time the  more  distant  tribes  come  in  to  hunt  in  the  buf- 
falo prairies  and  steal  the  Pawnee  horses,  while  the  latter  ' 
are  forbidden  to  make  reprisals.  These  stipulations 
would  be  very  hard,  if  adhered  to  ; but  I have  good  rea- 
son to  believe  that,  during  my  residence  with  the  Paw- 
nees, they  sent  out  several  horse-stealing  parties,  one  of 
which  was  supposed  to  have  met  with  considerable  suc- 
cess among  the  Kanzas,  a tribe  settled  on  the  river  of  the 
same  name.  The  Indian  notions  of  reprisals  are  very 
cosmopolitan  ; if  thirty  horses  are  stolen  from  them,  and 
they  cannot  discover  the  thieves,  they  consider  them- 
selves perfectly  justified  in  stealing  thirty  from  the  first 
party  or  tribe  that  may  offer  them  the  opportunity.  I 
Gannot  give  reference  "to  the  Pawnee  Blackstone  ; but 
the  “ Jus  et  factum”  are  both  indisputable. 

We  remained  now  two  days  without  seeing  any  buf- 
falo^ and  I had  nothing  to  amuse  me  but  to  watch,  observe, 
and  record  the  manners  and  customs  of  those  around 
me.  f received  a visit  from  Tara wicadi-a*  (or  the  Lit- 
tle Chief).  He  was  the  head  chief  of  the  Tapage  tribe, 
and  a man  of  considerable  influence  and  ability.  He 

* This  chief  has  another  council  name,  vide  supra , which  is  indicative 
of  his  eloquence. 


212 


INDIAN  CHARACTER. 


made  me  a present  of  a painted  buffalo  robe,*  such  as 
is  given  by  a bridegroom  to  his  intended  father-in-law. 
It  was  not  quite  new,  but  the  symbols  are  curious  and 
clearly  distinguishable,  representing  the  claws  of  a bear, 
and  two  drawings  of  a bird  and  a beast  with  half  a dozen 
tails,  the  genus  or  species  of  which  would  be  problema- 
tical either  to  Linnaeus  or  Buffon.  I had  learned  enough 
of  the  Pawnees  to  know,  that  they  never  make  a pre- 
sent without  expecting  a more  than  adequate  return,  and 
consequently  I paid  the  Tapage  chief  with  a parcel  of 
beads,  knives,  tobacco,  and  vermilion.  In  bargaining 
they  are  complete  Jews  ; they  esteem  a man  who  beats 
them  down  in  the  price  of  an  article,  and  despise  one 
who  sells  them  anything  at  a low  rate. 

Every  hour  that  I spent  with  the  Indians,  impressed 
upon  me  the  conviction  that  I had  taken  the  only  method 
of  becoming  acquainted  with  their  domestic  habits  and 
their  undisguised  character.  Had  I judged  from  what 
I had  been  able  to  observe  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  or  other 
frontier  places,  where  I met  them,  I should  have  known 
about  as  much  of  them  as  the  generality  of  scribblers 
and  their  readers,  and  might,  like  them,  have  deceived 
myself  and  others  into  a belief  in  their  “high  sense  of 
honour” — their  hospitality — their  openness  and  love  of 
truth,  and  many  other  qualities  which  they  possess,  if  at 
all,  in  a very  moderate  degree  ; and  yet  it  is  no  wonder 
if  such  impressions  have  gone  abroad,  because  the  In- 
dian, among  whites,  or  at  a garrison,  trading-post,  or 
town,  is  as  different  a man  from  the  same  Indian  at 
home  as  a Turkish  “ Mollah”  is  from  a French  barber. 
Among  whites,  he  is  all  dignity  and  repose ; he  is  acting 
a part  the  whole  time,  and  acts  it  most  admirably.  He 
manifests  no  surprise  at  the  most  wonderful  effects  of 
machinery — is  not  startled  if  a twenty-four  pounder  is 
fired  close  to  him,  and  does  not  evince  the  slightest  cu- 
riosity regarding  the  thousand  things  that  are  strange  and 


* The  Indians  paint  various  devices  upon  thpir  robes,  according  to 
the  ceremony  or  exploit  which  they  wish  to  commemorate  Thus  there 
are  marriage-robes,  battle-robes,  hunting-robes,  medicine. robes,  Ac. 
The  one  to  which  I refer  above  is  a marriage-robe,  and  is  still  (1839)  in 
my  possession.. 


INDIAN  CHARACTER. 


213 


new  to  him  ; whereas  at  home,  the  same  Indian  chatters, 
jokes,  and  laughs  among  his  companions — frequently 
indulges  in  the  most  licentious  conversation  ; and  his 
curiosity  is  unbounded  and  irresistible  as  that  of  any 
man,  woman,  or  monkey,  on  earih. 

Truth  and  honesty  (making  the  usual  exceptions,  to  be 
found  in  all  countries)  are  unknown,  or  despised  by  them. 
A boy  is  taught  and  encouraged  to  steal  and  lie,  and  the 
only  blame  or  disgrace  ever  incurred  thereby  is  when 
the  offence  is  accompanied  by  detection.  I never  met 
will)  liars  so  determined,  universal,  or  audacious.  The 
chiefs  themselves  have  told  me  repeatedly  the  most  de- 
liberate and  gross  untruths,  to  serve  a trifling  purpose, 
with  the  gravity  of  a chief-justice ; and  I doubt  whether 
Baron  Munchausen  himself  would  be  more  than  a match 
for  the  great  chief  of  the  Pawnees.  Let  them  not  dis- 
pute the  palm — each  is  greatest  in  his  peculiar  line — one 
in  inventive  exaggeration,  the  other  in  plain  unadorned 
falsehood.  But  from  all  these  charges  I most  completely 
exonerate  my  old  chief,  Sa-ni-tsa-rish ; Nature  had 
made  him  a gentleman,  and  he  remained  so,  in  spile  of 
the  corrupting  examples  around  him. 

To  give  some  idea  of  their  “ want  of  curiosity,”  I 
will  merely  relate  the  circumstances  usually  attending  a 
feast,  to  which  1,  or  any  of  our  party  of  four,  was  invited. 

On  entering  the  lodge,  I found  a vacant  place  near 
the  owner,  who  made  signs  that  I should  occupy  it  : if 
others,  were:  invited,  we  wailed  till  all  arrived.  A bowl, 
either  of  Indian  corn  or  buffalo  meat,  was  then  placed  in 
the  centre  ; the  guests  silting  cross-legged,  like  tailors, 
around  it.  There  was  a horn  spoon  for  each  person  ; 
and  at  the  word.  “ Lo,”  or  “ Lo-wa,”  we  all  fell  to  work. 
This  word  comprises  their  whole  vocabulary  of  “ assent,” 
“ satisfaction,”  and  “compliment;”  it  invariably  begins 
and  concludes  a feast,,  each  guest  saying  it  as  he  enters 
and  leaves  the  tent. 

As  the  giver  of  the  feast  never  eats  with  his  guests, 
his  occupation  generally  was  to  scrutinize  me.  He 
would  first  pass  his  hand  all  over  my  coarse  blue  check- 
ed shirt  (or  jacket) ; then  he  would  take  up  mv  knife — 
open  and  shut  it  twenty  times — ask  as  many  questions 


214 


CURIOSITY. 


about  it,  then  pass  it  on  to  another  : he  would  next  take  up, 
or  take  off  my  hat,  and  place  it  on  his  own  greasy  head, 
first  cocking  it  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other — all  the 
lime  admiring  himself  in  a pocket-mirror.  While  he  was 
thus  employed,  another  would  pounce  upon  my  red  silk 
pocket-handkerchief,  and  wind  it  like  a turban  round  the 
unwashed,  uncombed,  and  thickly-peopled  head  of  some 
half-pleased,  half-frightened  child  ; and  a third,  in  the 
meantime,  would  dive  to  the  bottom  of  every  one  of 
my  pockets,  and  submit  everything  therein  contained — 
coins,  copper-caps,  pencil,  &c.,  to  the  same  diligent  in- 
spection. After  being  among  them  some  little  time,  I 
determined  to  put  a stop  to  this  nuisance,  and  whenever 
they  touched  my  hat,  knife,  or  anything  else  belonging 
to  me,  I quietly  removed  their  hand,  and  told  them 
gravely  they  must  not  do  so.  They  soon  found  out  I 
was  in  earnest,  and  they  ceased  from  annoying  me.  I 
am  not  sure  whether  they  thought  tne  a “sulky  fellow” 
or  a “great  chief”  in  consequence  of  this  conduct,  but 
I rather  believe  the  latter,  as  they  treated  me  with  more 
respect ; whereas  my  white  companions  pursued  a less 
determined  (perhaps,  a more  good-natured) course  ; and  I 

saw  my  friend  Y ’s  and  my  servant’s  hat,  and  other 

articles,  making  the  tour  of  heads  and  hands  as  long  as 
we  remained  among  them.  As  to  their  begging,  I was 
obliged  very  early  to  put  a stop  to  that ; for  there  was 
not  a single  thing  in  my  possession  that  they  did  not  ask 
for,  even  till  I was  tired  of  repeating  “ Ka-ki,”  No. 


INDIAN  WOMEN. 


215 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Indian  Women. — Children. — Nursery  Discipline. — Girls. — Courtship. 
— Marriage. — A Missionary. — Occupation  and  Labours  of  married 
Women. — Degradation  of  the  half-civilized  Tribes — Education  and 
Life  of  Indian  Men. — An  Indian  Dandy. — His  elaborate  Toilet. — 
His  Effeminacy. — Game  at  Javelin. — Indian  Courage. 

Tt  may  seem  unpardonable  that  I have  so  long  defer- 
red any  mention  of  the  appearance,  manners,  dress,  and 
condition  of  the  “ ladies  ” in  this  community.  The  de- 
lay has  been  occasioned  by  the  best  of  motives,  namely, 
a hope  that  longer  experience  might  enable  me  to  find 
some  exceptions  to  such  a general  description  as  truth 
would  oblige  me  to  give.  I waited  long,  and  found 
none  ; and  am  now  under  the  unpleasant  necessity  of  de- 
claring that,  among  the  Pawnee  females,  I never  saw 
one  instance  of  beauty,  either  in  face  or  figure — of  neat- 
ness in  dress — cleanliness  in  appearance,  or  of  any  one 
of  those  graceful  and  attractive  attributes  which  generally 
characterize  the  softer  sex.*  Their  life  is  one  of  perpe- 
tual degradation  and  slavery  ; and,  in  spite  of  their  slo- 
venly appearance,  I could  not  withhold  my  admiration 
at  the  good- humour  with  which  they  perform  labours  une- 
qualled by  those  of  any  free  servant  or  slave.  In  their  in- 
fancy and  early  childhood  they  are  completely  spoiled. 

Some  authors  have  pretended  that  Indian  children 
never  cry : this  is  as  true  as  many  other  parts  of  their 
absurd  histories  ; I never  was  among  children  so  given 
to  cry  and  scream.  I have  seen  them  repeatedly  do  so 
(when  they  wanted  any  trifle  which  was  refused  them), 
with  such  incessant  violence,  that  they  ended  by  cough- 
ing most  horribly  and  spitting  blood  ; then  the  alarmed 
mother  would  leave  her  work,  and,  instead  of  a good 

* I did  afterwards  see  two  or  three  pretty  girls,  but  so  few  in  number 
that  I did  not  think  myself  justified  in  altering  the  text. 


216 


NURSERY  DICIPLINE. 


whipping,  give  them  whatever  they  asked  for.  Among 
other  instances  of  foolish  maternal  indulgence,  and  its 
corresponding  effects  on  a child,  the  following  is  not 
among  the  least  ludicrous  : — 

Jn  our  tent  was  a little  girl,  nearly  two  years  old,  so 
dreadfully  affected  wiih  the  hooping-cough,  that  it  fre- 
quently caused  me  to  lie  awake  half  the  night,  and  I 
hourly  expected  it  to  break  a blood-vessel  and  die.  This 
poor  little  wretch’s  temper  was  as  bad,  and  as  badly 
nursed,  as  her  health  ; she  governed  the  whole  tent  ; 
and  1 cannot  conceive  how  she  survived  a week,  consi- 
dering that  her  mother  and  aunts  used  all  the  means  in 
their  power  to  kill  her,  short  of  a “ lethal  weapon.”  I 
have  seen  her  in  the  couise  of  one  morning  (she  being 
only  two  years  old  !)  eat  a good  bowl  of  half-boiled  maize 
— then  enough  green  grapes  and  plums  to  give  the  cho- 
lera to  a bargeman — then  a large  hunch  of  buffalo  meat, 
nearly  raw  ; in  the  midst  of  which  last  she  stopped,  and 
began  to  cry  and  scream,  for  what  1 knew  not,  but  her 
mother  knew  better;  and  the  poor  woman  was  obliged 
to  open  her  blanket  and  suckle  the  young  screamer,  who 
still  held  the  half-eaten  slice  of  buffalo  meat  in  her  hand  !* 
Even  the  hints  that  kindly  nature  gave  were  lost  upon 
them ; for,  after  she  had  rejected  the  unripe  fruit,  with 
evident  proofs  of  her  aversion,  too  disagreeable  for  me  to 
forget,  within  ten  minutes  I saw  the  child  again  taking 
another,  and  at  least  as  large  a dose,  of  the  same  com- 
position. So  much  for  infant  diet! 

As  they  gro\y  older  their  tyranny  decreases,  and  by 
the  time  they  are  five  or  six  years  old,  they  are  made  to 
carry  wood  and  wal£r,  and  enter  upon  the  duties  of  their 
life  ; before  they  are  grown  up,  the  more  industrious 
and  ingenious  among  them,  add  to  their  usual  domestic 
accomplishments,  the  making  of  various  little  ornaments, 
and  the  painting  of  buffalo-skins. 

Suppose  the  young  lady  arrived  at  the  age  when  the 

* The  Pawnee  women  frequently  keep  their  children  unwearied  till 
near  three  years  of  age,  and  thus,  of  course,  have  sometimes  two  or 
three  sucking  at  once.  The  long,  pendant  breast  of  an  Indian  squaw, 
after  a certain  age,  is  one  of  the  most  offensive  and  disagreeable  objects 
upon  which  my  eye  ever  Tested. 


MARRIAGE. 


217 


short  usurpation  of  Cupid  is  to  be  succeeded  by  the  ab- 
solute monarchy  of  Hymen,  the  ceremony  to  be  observed 
is  (as  far  as  I can  learn)  nearly  as  follows  : — When  the 
lover  wishes  to  break  the  ice,  he  comes  to  her  father’s 
tent  uninvited,  and  sits  on  the  corner  of  the  mat  for  a 
considerable  time,  then  rises,  and  goes  away  without 
speaking.  This  is  the  preliminary  step  in  courtship,  an- 
swering perhaps  to  the  first  gentle  pressure  of  the  hand 
— the  first  blushing  hesitation  in  address — the  first  mu- 
tual glance  of  understanding. — But  I am  treading  on 
dangerous  ground,  and  must  proceed  no  farther  with 
these  drawing-room  “preliminaries.” 

Afier  a few  days  the  young  man  returns,  wearing  his 
buffalo-robe  with  the  hair  outward,  and  again  sits  down 
silent  in  the  corner  of  the  tent ; this  is  a regular  propo- 
sal ; if  the  father  is  determined  to  reject  him  at  once,  no 
skin  is  placed  for  him  to  sit  on,  and  no  meat  is  offered  to 
him  ; but  if  he  approves  of  the  match,  these  usual  rites 
of  hospitality  are  observed,  and  he  tells  the  young 
man  that  he  will  give  a feast  to  obtain  the  consent 
of  all  his  daughter’s  connections,  and  advises  him  also  to 
do  the  same  by  his  relations  ; should  both  of  these  feasts 
terminate  favourably,  the  young  man  presents  himself 
once  more  before  his  bride  at  the  door  of  her  tent,  then 
turns  round  and  walks  slowly  off  toward  his  own  ; she 
rises  and  follows  him — the  marriage  is  then  complete  ; 
(if  she  remain  sitting,  it  is  a sign  that  her  family  decline 
the  match.)  As  soon  as  he  reaches  home  he  sends  her 
father  the  marriage  present,  or  rather,  the  purch  se 
money  for  his  wife , (indeed  it  is  neither  more  nor  less,) 
the  amount  of  which  is  already  pretty  well  ascertained 
by  the  father-in-law,  and  which  consists  of  horses, 
blankets,  or  robes,  according  to  the  wealth  or  respecta- 
bility of  the  contracting  parties. 

The  most  extraordinary  part  of  this  matrimonial  affair 
is,  that,  having  married  the  elder  sister,  he  has  a right  to 
marry  all  the  younger  ones  as  they  successively  attain 
the  age  of  puberty.  Nor  is  this  at  all  unusual  ; on  the 
contrary,  it  is  a common  practice,  as  the  husband  there- 
by secures  so  many  additional  slaves,  and  can  obtain  so 
much  more  corn,  dried  meat,  dressed  skins,  &c.,  all  of 
Vol.  I.— T 


218 


A MISSIONARY. 


which  are  the  result  of  female  labour.  When  the  second 
sister  becomes  marriageable,  or  rather,  when  it  suits  his 
fancy  or  convenience  to  take  her,  he  sends  her  father  a 
horse  or  other  proportionate  present,  and  she  comes  over 
to  his  lodge  ; and  so  on  with  the  other  sisters.*  I have 
seen  several  chiefs  who  have,  in  this  manner,  married  a 
whole  family  ; the  eldest  wife  being  the  greatest  drudge, 
and  the  youngest  being  generally  the  favourite  sultana, 
and  consequently  doing  the  least  work. 

I cannot  affirm  the  universal  accuracy  of  the  above 
account,  because  I could  not  understand  the  Indians  suf- 
ficiently to  extract  much  information  from  them.  The 
French  interpreter  was  extremely  illiterate,  ignorant,  and 
uncommunicative  ; and  the  only  other  source  from  which 
I could  gather  anything,  was  from  a young  man  sent  by 
the  missionaries  from  New  England  to  learn  lire  Pawnee 
language,  with  a view  to  his  teaching  their  children  here- 
after ihe  elements  of  religion,  morals,  grammar,  &c. 
The  historyrof  the  world  affords  ample  evidence  to  prove 
that  the  fir3t  spreaders  of  the  Gospel  among  savage 
tribes,  must  be  active  enterprising  men,  and  enthusiasts  ; 
anything  more  directly  opposite  to  these  qualities  than 
the  character  of  the  young  missionary  resident  among 
the  Pawnees  I defy  the  whole  world  to  produce, — he 
was  the  most  quiet,  indolent,  phlegmatic  being  I ever 
beheld,  and  in  taciturnity  worthy  to  be  a priest  of  Momus 
himself;  however,  I did  now  and  then  extract  a few  sen- 
tences from  him,  and  such  facts  as  he  told  me  I could 
depend  upon,  as  there  did  not  appear  to  be  a grain  of 
fancy  or  invention  in  his  composition  : he  had  been  with 
the  Pawnees  about  eight  months,  and  spoke  a few  words 
of  the  language,  but  he  had  not  the  “bump” — I beg 
pardon,  the  “ organ  ” of  language.  His  residence  among 
them  may  be  productive  of  some  advantage  to  the  esti- 

* This  custom  is  common  among  other  savage  tribes  besides  the 
Pawnees.  See  Major  Long’s  “ Account  of  the  Omahas,”  vol.  i.  p.  230. 
Also  the  Padre  Palon’s  “ Description  of  Upper  California,”  quoted  by 
Mr.  Forbes  ; “ it  is  very  common  for  the  wife  to  urge  her  husband  to 
marry  her  sisters,  and  even  their  mother  ! and  the  common  custom  is 
when  a man  marries,  that  he  takes  the  whole  of  the  sisters  for  wives.” — 
Forbes ’ California , p.  190,  see  Appendix. 


MARRIED  WOMEN. 


219 


mate  formed  by  the  savages  of  the  character  of  the 
whites,  as  his  life  is  decent  and  moral  ; whereas  their  in- 
tercourse has  been  mostly  confined  to  the  French  traders, 
who  are  in  general  grossly  licentious  and  profligate,  hav- 
ing wives  in  every  tribe  they  deal  with,  and  tempting 
the  poor  savage  to  barter  the  honour  (if  among  them  it 
can  be  so  called)  of  their  daughters  and  sisters  for  a dram 
of  whiskey. 

It  is  difficult  to  understand  how  so  many  Indians  can 
have  four,  five,  or  six  wives,  and  that  so  very  few  are  un- 
married at  thirty  years  of  age,  unless  we  suppose  that 
three  or  four  females  among  them  are  born  to  one  male  : 
it  might  have  been  accounted  for  formerly  by  the  num- 
ber of  men  that  died  in  their  wars,  hunting  parties,  and 
accidents;  but  these  means  of  depopulation  are  so  much 
more  rare  than  they  used  to  be,  that  they  can  scarcely 
be  supposed  to  explain  the  great  disproportion  between 
the  sexes. 

Having  already  brought  the  lady  through  all  the  dan- 
gers of  celibacy,  her  matrimonial  happiness  will  be  most 
easily  appreciated  by  a faithful  narration  of  her  daily  oc- 
cupation when  the  village  is  moving.  She  rises  an  hour 
before  daylight,  packs  up  the  dried  meat,  the  corn,  and 
other  bales,  strikes  the  tent,  loads  and  saddles  all  the 
horses  and  mules,  and  at  dawn  the  march  commences  ; 
they  generally  go  from  twelve  to  fifteen  miles  before 
their  mid-day  halt ; the  husband  rides,  some  animals  are 
loaded,  many  run  loose  ; she  travels  on  foot,  carrying  on 
her  back  either  a child  or  a package  of  considerable  size,  in 
one  hand  a bundle  or  a can  of  water,  with  the  other  lead- 
ing one  or  two  pack-horses.  On  arriving  at  the  camp- 
ing-place, she  unpacks  the  animals,  and  proceeds  to 
pitch  the  tent,  or  lodge,  as  before  described.  But  in 
order  to  appreciate  the  extreme  labour  of  this  apparently 
simple  operation,  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  she  has 
to  force  eight  or  ten  poles,  sharpened  at  the  point,  into 
ground  baked  nearly  as  hard  as  brick  by  a vertical  sun  ; 
they  require  to  be  driven  at  least  six  inches  deep  by  the 
mere  strength  of  her  arms,  as  she  is  not  assisted  by  the 
use  of  any  iron-pointed  instrument  or  any  mallet.  As 
soon  as  the  tent  is  pitched  and  arranged,  she  goes  in 


220 


LABORIOUS  DUTIES. 


search  of  wood  and  water  ; the  latter  is  generally  with- 
in half-a-mile  of  the  camping-place  selected,  but  the 
former,  I can  positively  affirm  from  my  own  observaiion, 
she  frequently  has  to  seek  and  carry  on  her  back  three 
or  four  miles. 

From  mingled  commisseration  and  curiosity,  I have 
once  or  twice  raised  these  wood-bundles  thus  brought  in, 
and  am  afraid  to  hazard  a conjecture  at  their  weight,  but  I 
feel  confident  that  any  London  porter  would  charge  high 
for  an  extra  load,  if  he  was  desired  to  carry  one  of  them 
half-a-mile  : she  then  proceeds  to  light  the  fire,  cut  up 
the  meat,  and  pound  the  corn,  for  which  latter  purpose  she 
is  obliged  to  use  a heavy  club,  round  at  the  extremity, 
and  a mortar,  hollowed  by  herself  from  the  trunk  of  a 
walnut.  As  soon  as  the  meal  is  finished,  she  has  to 
strike  the  tent,  re-load  the  horses,  and  the  whole  forego- 
ing work  is  to  he  repeated , except  that  ihe  afternoon 
walk  is  generally  not  more  than  eight  miles. 

This  is  the  ordinary  routine  of  a travelling  day  ; but 
on  the  day  of  a hunt,  and  on  its  successor,  her  labour 
varies  in  kind,  not  much  in  . degree,  as,  besides  bringing 
wood  and  water,  cooking,  &c.,  she  has  to  cut  up  all  the 
meat  into  thin  flakes  or  layers  to  be  dried  in  the  sun,  to 
dress  the  skins  and  robes,  the  mode  of  doing  which  I 
shall  have  to  notice  presently  ; to  make  the  moccasins, 
leggins,  and,  in  short,  whatever  clothing  is  wanled  by 
any  part  of  the  family.  To  perform  this  incredible  labour 
there  were  only  three  women  in  our  lodge,  and  I never 
saw  any  of  the  three  either  grumble,  or  rest  a moment, 
although  plagued  with  the  additional  care  and  ceaseless 
crying  of  the  two  beforementioned  brats.  Lest  it  may 
be  supposed  that  in  the  permanent  or  winter  lodge  they 
enjoy  more  rest,  it  is  as  well  to  mention  that,  in  addition 
to  their  domestic  duties,  the  whole  of  the  agricultural 
labour,  in  their  coarse  system  of  raising  maize,  falls  to 
their  share. 

1 Is  it  possible  to  contemplate  this  constant  and  severe 
fatigue,  undergone  with  uncomplaining  cheerfulness, 
without  pity  and  admiration?  And  yet  the  women  ap- 
pear contented  and  even  happy  ; they  laugh  under  their 
burthens,  and  chatter  during  half  the  night.  They 


HALF-CIVILIZED  TRIBES. 


221 


seem  even  to  be  proof  against  the  pains  of  the  primal 
punishment  brought,  by  sin,  upon  womankind  ; for  they 
pursue  their  ordinary  occupations  until  the  latest  period 
of  their  labour,  and  immediately  after  the  birth  of  the 
child  resume  them  without  interruption.  It  appears  that 
no  obstetric  aid  is  required  on  these  occasions  ; if  the 
village  is  on  a march,  the  sister  or  some  other  female  re- 
mains, for  an  hour,  in  the  rear,  with  her  friend,  and  then 
they  rejoin  the  main  body,  and  present  the  “ happy  father” 
with  a fine  boy  or  girl,  as  the  case  may  be  ! Is  it  not 
possible  that  the  progress  of  years,  if  it  bring  with  it 
civilization  and  some  alleviation  of  their  drudgery,  may 
mar  the  happiness  they  now  enjoy,  by  implanting  wants, 
desires,  and  seeds  of  discontent,  to  which  they  are  still 
strangers  1 

It  is  a melancholy  but  undoubted  fact  that  the*  half- 
civilized  tribes  are  more  licentious,  treacherous,  and  de- 
based, both  in  body  and  mind,  than  those  who  know  the 
white  man  only  by  distant  rumour,  and  view  him  as  their 
natural  and  irreconcilable  enemy.  This,  however,  is  to 
be  attributed,  not  to  civilization  abstractedly,  nor  to  white 
man  as  a genus,  but  to  whiskey,  and  the  profligate  vicious 
traders,  chiefly  Canadian  French,  who  first  introduced 
that  liquid  curse  among  them. 

I must  now  turn  to  the  male  portion  of  the  common- 
wealth, and  record  a few  particulars  regarding  them. 
As  soon  as  the  boys  are  able  to  run  about  they  begin  to 
practise  the  bow  and  arrow  ; and  in  the  barren  prairies, 
where  neither  bird  nor  flower  offers  itself  as  a mark, 
their  constant  occupation  is  shooting  at  an  arrow  pre- 
viously sent  by  one  of  the  little  party.  This  they  perform 
(to  use  a vulgar  phrase)  “turn  about:” — A.  shoots  an 
arrow  into  the  ground,  about  ten  or  fifteen  yards  off;  B. 
shoots  at  it;  then  B.  sends  one  for  A.  to  aim  at;  and  so 
forth.  Until  they  attain  the  age  of  ten  or  eleven  they 
remain  more  or  less  under  their  moiheFs  control,  and  are 
made  to  help  her  in  carrying  water,  and  in  catching  or 
leading  horses;  but  about  that  discreet  time  of  life  they 
begin  to  feel  the  dignity  of  their  sex,  and  to  perform  such 
menial  offices  with  repugnance  ; and  I have  often  ob- 
served with  surprise  and  indignation,  that  if  I gave  a 


222 


AN  INDfAft  DANDY. 


gun-case  or  any  kind  of  package  to  one  of  them  to  carry 
during  a march,  before  ten  minutes  he  would  transfer  it 
to  his  already  overloaded  and  submissive  mother,  and  re- 
turn to  his  bow  and  arrow  with  his  companions.  They 
delight,  also,  while  they  are  lads,  to  follow  their  elder 
brother  or  father  to  the  buffalo  hunt,  during  which  they 
keep  a respectful  distance  in  the  rear ; but  as  soon  as 
the  game  is  killed,  they  assist  at  the  dissection,  and  the 
horse  on  which  they  rode  is  used  to  carry  the  meat  to 
the  camp. 

About  the  age  of  twenty  they  are  allowed  to  hunt, 
and  seek  other  opportunities  for  distinction.  This  epoch 
answers  to  the  Oxonian’s  first  appearance  in  London  life 
after- taking  his  B.  A.  degree.  I have  seen  some  dan- 
dies in  my  life — English,  Scotch,  French,  German,  aye 
and  American  dandies  too but  none  of  them  can  com- 
pare with  the  vanity  of  coxcombry  of  the  Pawnee  dandy*. 
Lest  any  of  the  gentry  claiming  this  distinction,  and  be- 
longing to  the  abovementioned  nations,  should  doubt  or 
feel  aggrieved  at  this  assertion,  I will  faithfully  narrate 
what  passed  constantly  before  my  eyes  in  our  own  tent; 
namely,  the  manner  in  which  Sa-ni-tsa-rish’s  son  passed 
the  days  on  which  there  was  no  buffalo  hunt. 

He  began  his  toilet,  about  eight  in  the  morning,  by 
greasing  and  smoothing  his  whole  person  with  fat,  which 
he  rubbed  afterwards  perfectly  dry,  only  leaving  the  skin 
sleek  and  glossy ; he  then  painted  his  face  vermilion, 
with  a stripe  of  red  also  along  the  centre  of  the  crown 
of  the  head  ; he  then  proceeded  to  his  “ coiffure,”  which 
received  great  attention,  although  the  quantum  of  hair 
demanding  such  care  was  limited,  inasmuch  as  his  head 
was  shaved  close,  except  one  tuft  at  the  top,  from  which 
hung  two  plaited  “tresses.”  (Why  must  I call  them 
“pigtails  ?”*)  He  then  filled  his  ears,  which  were  bored 

* Tho  fashion  of  wearing  the  hair  varies  in  every  tribe,,  and  in  every 
individual  of  the  tribe,  according  to  the  fancy  of  the  person  : but  the 
method  here  described  is  the  most  prevalent  among  the  Pawnees.  The 
Ricaras  plait  a long  stream  of  horse-hair  with  their  crown-tuft,  which 
floats  wiidly  in  the  breeze  as  they  gallop,  and  gives  them  a terrible  and 
picturesque  appearance.  I have  also  been  informed  by  many  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  traders,  that  some  of  the  Crow  chiefs  (a  nation  to  the 
noritv-west  of  the  Ricara)  wear  hair  of  seven  and  eight  feet  long;  and  a 


HIS  TOILH'T. 


223 


lh  two  or  three  places,  with  rings  and  wampum,  and 
hung  several  strings  of  beads  round  his  neck  ; then, 
sometimes  painting  stripes  of  vermilion  and  yellow  up- 
on his  breast  and  shoulders,  and  placing  armlets  above 
his  elbows  and  rings  upon  his  fingers,  he  proceeded  to 
adorn  the  nether  man  with  a pair  of  moccasins,  some 
scarlet  cloth  leggins  fastened  to  hrs  waist-belt,  and  bound 
round  below  the  knee  with  garters  of  beads  four  inches 
broad.  Being  so  far  prepared,  he  drew  out  his  mirror, 
fitted  into  a small  wooden  frame,  (which  he  always, 
whether  hunting  or  at  home,  cariied  about  his  person,) 
and  commenced  a course  of  self-examination,  such  as 
the  severest  disciple  of  Watts,  Mason,  or  any  other  reli- 
gious moralist,  never  equalled.  Nay  more,  if  1 were 
not  afraid  of  offending  the  softer  sex  by  venturing  to 
bring  man  into  comparison  with  them  in  an  occupation 
which  is  considered  so  peculiarly  their  own,  I would  as- 
sert that  no  female  creation  of  the  poets,  from  the  time 
when  Eve  first  saw  “ that  smooth  watery  image,”  till  the 
polished  toilet  of  the  lovely  Belinda,  ever  studied  her 
own  reflected  self  with  more  perseverance  or  satisfaction 
than  this  Pawnee  youth.  I have  repeatedly  seen  him 
sit,  for  above  an  hour  at  a time,  examining  his  face  in 
every  possible  position  and  expression  ; now  frowning 
like  Homer’s  Jove  before  a thunder-storm,  now  like  the 
same  god,  described  by  Milton,  “smiling  with  superior 
love ;”  now  slightly  varying  the  streaks  of  paint  upon  his 
cheeks  and  forehead,  and  then  pushing  or  pulling  “each 
particular  hair”  of  his  eye-brows  into  its  most  becoming 
place  ! Could  the  youth  have  seen  anything  in  that 
mirror  half  so  dangerous  as  the  features  which  the  glassy 
wave  gave  back  to  the  gaze  of  the  fond  Narcissus,  I 
might  have  feared  for  his  life  or  ieason  ; but,  fortunately 
for  these,  they  had  only  to  contend  with  a low  receding 
forehead,  a nose  somewhat  s unious*  a pair  of  small 

gentleman  of  character  and  education  assured  me  that  he  had  measured 
the  hair  of  one  of  them  nine  feet.  Like  the  faithful  old  Herodotus,  I add 
“ these  things  I have  not  seen,  but  give  them  as  they  were  told  to  me.” 

* I believe  I can  justly  claim  the  invention  or  anglicising  of  this 
■word.  If  I can,  I consider  the  republic  of  letters  under  deep  obligation 
to  me. 


224 


DECORATION  OF  HIS  HORSE. 


sharp  eyes,  with  high  cheek-bones,  and  a broad  mouth, 
well  furnished  with  a set  of  teeth,  which  had  at  least  the 
merit  of  demolishing  speedily  everything,  animal  or 
vegetable,  that  came  within  their  range. 

His  toilet  thus  arranged  to  his  satisfaction,  one  of  the 
woman  or  children  led  his  buffalo-horse  before  the  tent; 
and  he  proceeded  to  deck  his  steed,  by  painting  his  fore- 
head, neck,  and  shoulders  with  stripes  of  vermilion,  and 
sometimes  twisted  a few  feathers  into  his  tail.  He  then 
put  into  his  mouth  an  old-fashioned  bridle,  bought  or 
stolen  from  the  Spaniards,  from  the  bit  of  which  hung  six 
or  eight  steel-chains,  about  nine  inches  long  ; while  some 
small  bells,  attached  to  the  reins,  contributed  to  render 
the  movements  of  the  steed  as  musical  as  those  of  the 
lovely  “ Sonnante,”  in  the  incomparable  tales  of  Comte 
Hamilton.! 

All  things  being  now  ready  for  the  promenade,  he 
threw  a scarlet  mantle  over  his  shoulders ; thrust  his 
mirror  in  below  his  belt ; took  in  one  hand  a large  fan, 
of  wild-goose  or  turkey  feathers,  to  shield  his  fair  and 
delicate  complexion  from  the  sun  ; while  a whip  hung 
from  his  wrist,  having  the  handle  studded  with  brass 
nails.  Thus  accoutred,  he  mounted  his  jingling  palfrey, 
and  ambled  through  the  encampment,  envied  by  all  the 
youths  less  gay  in  attire,  atiracting  the  gaze  of  the  un- 
fortunate drudges  who  represent  the  gentler  sex,  and  ad- 
mired supremely  by  himself! 

On  these  blank  days,  the  men  who  were  not  dandies 
passed  the  time  in  smoking,  feasting,  mending  and  sharp- 
ening their  knives  and  arrows,  or  in  the  javelin  game,  of 
which  last  amusement  they  are  very  fond.  It  is  played  by 
two  competitors,  each  armed  with  a dart,  on  the  smoothest 
plot  of  grass  which  they  can  find.  The  arena  is  about 
fifty  yards  long.  They  start  from  one  end  at  full  speed  ; 
one  of  the  players  has  a small  hoop,  of  six  inches  dia- 
meter, which,  as  soon  as  they  have  reached  the  middle 
of  the  course,  he  rolls  on  before  them  ; and  each  then 
endeavours  to  dart  his  weapon  through  the  hoop.  He 
who  succeeds,  counts  so  many  in  the  game  ; arid  if  nei>- 


t See  Fleur-d1  Epine. 


INDIAN  COURAGE. 


225 


ther  pierces  it.,  the  nearest  javelin  to  the  mark  is  allowed 
to  count,  but  of  course  not  so  many  points  as  if  he  had 
“ ringed  ” it. 

This  game  is  exceedingly  hard  exercise  ; they  play 
with  many  on  a side,  and  sometimes  for  five  and  six 
hours,  in  the  mid-heat  of  an  August  day,  without  inter- 
mission. It  is  made  subservient  to  their  taste  for  gam- 
bling; and  I have  seen  them  lose  guns,  blankets,  and 
even  one  or  two  horses,  in  a morning.  I have  heard  that 
they  play  at  cards  in  their  winter-quarters,  but  cannot 
vouch  for  the  truth  of  the  assertion.  In  fact,  this  is  the 
only  game  that  I ever  saw  among  the  Pawnees  : but  it 
is  well  known  that  other  tribes  play  admirably  at  ball, 
after  dilferent  fashions,  one  of  which  resembles  closely 
the  English  “ hockey,”  or  Scottish  “ shinny,”  and  is 
played  with  a hooked  stick.  However,  we  must  not  be- 
lieve that  Indian  games  are  quite  as  various  or  scientific, 
as  some  careless  authors  have  described  them.* 

The  courage  of  the  Indians  has  been  the  subject  of 
much  controversy  : I have  had  few  opportunities  of  form- 
ing a practical  opinion  on  the  question.  One  thing,  how- 
ever, is  certain,  that  they  invariably  prefer  ambush  and 
artifice  to  open  attack  ; and  the  highest  praise  is  given 
to  the  warrior  who  brings  home  a few  scalps  without 
losing  a man  ; but  if  he  returns  with  a number  of  scalps, 
having  lost  a few  of  his  own  party,  he  obtains  much  less 
praise.  No  one  can  deny  them  the  merit  of  passive 
courage  or  endurance.  It  would  appear  that  their  ner- 
vous system  is  much  less  irritable  than  that  of  the  whites. 
I do  not  form  this  opinion  from  the  numberless  written 
narratives  upon  the  subject ; but  I have  seen  and  con- 
versed with  several  Americans  who  have  been  engaged  in 
Indian  wars,  and  who  have  described  to  me  tortures  that 
they  have  beheld,  too  horrible  to  relate,  and  borne  ei- 
ther with  unflinching  silence,  or  with  a kind  of  frantic 
exultation,  that  dared  the  torturers  to  make  ihe  arrow 
sharper  and  to  bring  a hotter  firebrand.  This  may  be, 

* I remember,  in  an  enumeration  of  them  by  some  traveller,  quoted 
by  the  author  of  a “ Winter  in  the  Far  West,”  to  have  found  the  word 
tennis. — Query,  had  the  said  traveller  ever  seen  a tennis-court,  or  did  he 
know  the  meaning  of  the  term  1 


226 


INDIAN  COURAGE. 


and  undoubtedly  is,  true  in  regard  to  inflicted  pain  ; but 
it  certainly  is  not  true  relative  to  the  sufferings  of  disease, 
or  any  of  the  natural  “ ills  that  flesh  is  heir  to.”  I have 
more  than  once  seen  a full-grown  strong-looking  Indian 
moan  and  whine  under  the  toothach  or  colic  in  a manner 
that,  among  us  would  shame  “ a sick  child.” 

Pa6-ta®-lae-cha’rd,  who  was,  I think,  the  strongest  and 
most  formidable  Indian  in  the  camp,  sent  for  me  one  day, 
and  complained  most  grievously  of  pains  in  his  body. 
He  lay  at  full  length,  wrapped  up  in  his  buffalo-robe, 
and  sighed  and  groaned  most  piteously.  He  held  out 
his  arm  to  me,  and  made  me  signs  to  bleed  him  ; an 
operation  which  those  Indians  who  have  seen  or  heard 
of  it  among  the  whites,  are  very  fond  of  undergoing.  I 
felt  his  pulse  at  the  wrist;  it  was  regular,  firm,  and  quiet, 
I therefore  told  him  that  he  was  not  very  bad,  and  re- 
fused to  bleed  him.  Having  only  performed  this  office 
once,  and  not  being  much  of  an  adept  therein,  I never 
would  attempt  it,  except  in  cases  of  urgency  or  danger. 
However,  he  continued  his  groans,  although  I felt  con- 
vinced that  the  only  malady  under  which  he  laboured 
was  the  effect  of  having  eaten  three  or  four  pounds  too 
much  buffalo  meat  or  boiled  maize.  While  I was  still 
sitting  in  the  lodge,  the  heralds  came  round  to  cry  that 
buffalo  were  near,  and  that  the  hunters  might  mount. 
The  young  chief  sprang  up,  like  a lion  roused,  snatched 
his  bow  and  leather  quiver,  and  in  five  minutes  w'as  at  a 
full  gallop  over  the  prairie  1 


THE  CHASE. 


227 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


Ceremonies  attendant  on  the  Buffalo  Chase. — Adventures  with  Buffalo. 
— Number  of  Beasts  slain. — Night  Attack  of  the  Shiennes. — The  Con- 
flict. — War  Songs. — A Council. — Religion. — Great  Spirits  and  other 
Deities. — Religious  Ceremonies. — Notions  of  Futurity. — Months  and 
Years. — Office  of  Soldiers. — A “ Cerne,”  or  “ Surround.” — Buffalo 
Hunt. — Preparation  of  Buffalo  Skins. — Strange  Fuel. — March  re- 
sumed.— Otoe  Chief. — Deadly  Feud  between  two  Brothers. — Great 
Medicine  Feast. — Impromptu  Oration. — Indian  Eloquence. — Grace 
before  Meat. — Rapid  Feeding. — Method  of  Invitation  to  a Feast. — 
Contrasted  Temperature. — Change  in  the  Aspect  of  the  Country. 

On  the  26th  we  started  at  four  in  the  morning,  in  the 
hope  of  finding  water  before  mid-day.  About  eight 
o’clock  the  cry  of  “ tahara”  (buffalo)  again  echoed  through 
the  columns,  and  we  were  all  ordered  to  halt.  I rode 
forward  to  the  head  of  the  line,  where  a circle  was  made, 
consisting  of  the  chiefs  and  prophets.  Two  long  poles, 
belonging  to  the  “ medicine,”  and  covered  with  feathers 
and  shreds  of  cloth,  were  placed  in  the  centre,  and  an 
hour  was  spent  in  speechifying,  smoking,  and  medicine- 
mummery,  to  insure  a good  day’s  sport.  The  warriors, 
or  hunters,  then  went  forward,  and,  half-a-dozen  miles 
in  advance  of  the  main  body,  we  found  several  large 
herds  of  buffalo. 

Each  hunter  selected  the  herd  that  he  would  attack, 
and  we  rushed  in  upon  them  from  every  side.  It  was  a 
glorious  sight  to  see  the  naked  savages  urging  their 
horses  to  their  utmost  speed,  with  loud  cries  and  repeated 
use  of  the  cowhide  : while  the  affrighted  and  maddened 
bulls  galloped,  or  rather  plunged,  along  the  hill-side,  only 
escaping  one  band  of  tormentors  to  fall  in  with  another. 
A great  slaughter  ensued.  I happened  to  have  left  my 
rifle,  on  this  occasion,  in  the  rear,  with  my  servant,  and 
was  armed  only  with  a pistol.  However,  I singled  out 
two  or  three  bulls  and  cows,  and  pursued  them  six  or 
seven  miles  ; but  wdien  I reached  them,  was  much  an- 


228 


ADVENTURES  WITH  BUFFAFO. 


noyed  to  find  that  no  effort  or  exertion  could  induce  my 
steed  to  venture  near  them  ; so  I returned  unsuccessful 
and  out  of  humour  to  the  camp.  There  I found  that 

V had  remained  in  the  thick  melee  with  the  chiefs, 

and  had  killed,  or  helped  to  kill,  three  with  a pistol.  He 
had  borrowed  a horse  fully  trained  for  the  sport,  and  he 
could  ride  close  up  to  their  tails;  but  the  animal  would 
never  press  forward  enough  to  risk  an  encounter  with 
their  horns. 

I was  determined  not  to  let  the  sun  set  upon  my  blood- 
guiltless  head;  and,  as  it  was  only  about  two  p.  m.,  I 
mounted  another  horse,  took  my  rifle,  and  again  set  out 
in  quest  of  adventures.  I soon  found  a bull  in  a neigh- 
bouring ravine,  slighdy  wounded  by  an  arrow  in  his  flank: 
and,  as  he  was  near  the  village,  a large  parly  of  women 
and  children  were  answering,  at  a respectful  distance, 
his  roaring  and  bellowing  by  their  shouts  and  cries. 
They  told  me  to  go  and  kill  him.  As  the  horse  1 had 
then  mounted  would  not  allow  me  to  shoot  from  his  back, 
I dismounted  and  shot  a bullet  into  ibe  bull’s  shoulder  ; 
after  a short  interval,  he  tottered  and  fell.  I thought  that 
he  was  just  about  to  die,  and  imprudently  walked  up 
nearer  to  him.  To  my  surprise,  he  sprung  up  and  made 
at  me  ; I waited  till  he  came  within  two  or  three  yards, 
then  fired  my  second  barrel,  and  jumped  on  one  side. 
He  passed  over  the  place  I had  ceded  to  him,  and,  after 
staggering  on  a short  distance,  he  fell  again.  J reloaded 
my  rifle,  and  was  obliged  to  fire  another  ball,  which  put 
him  out  of  his  pain  ; and  then  I left  him  to  the  tender 
mercies  of  the  women  and  children,  and,  mounting  my 
horse,  cantered  over  the  hills,  in  search  of  more  game. 

I was  soon  aware  of  a fine  bull,  enjoying  its  solitary 
range  at  the  distance  of  a quarter  of  a mile.  I gave 
chase,  and  after  a gallop  of  two  or  three  miles,  I came 
alongside  the  enemy  ; but  my  Indian  nag  would  not 
allow  me  to  shoot  off  his  back  ; the  moment  I presented 
my  rifle,  he  would  wheel  and  jump,  so  as  to  preclude 
all  possibility  of  taking  aim.  The  bull  chased  me  about 
fifty  yards,  but  finding  he  had  no  chance  of  overtaking 
me,  stopped  and  stamped.  I dismounted,  and  a pitched 
battle  now  ensued,  in  which  Purday’s  double-barrel  ulti- 


NUMBER  OF  BEASTS  SLAIN. 


229 


mately  gained  the  day;  bat  I never  met  with  an  animal 
so  tenacious  of  life.  He  did  not  fall  till  he  received  my 
fourth  ball  in  the  heart;  two  having  pierced  him  before, 
not  more  than  three  inches  from  the  heart,  and  one  hav- 
ing entered  his  eye,  which  I aimed  at,  in  the  expectation 
of  thereby  reaching  his  brain. 

I now  returned  to  the  camp,  satisfied  with  my  day’s 
sport.  I might  have  killed  three  times  as  many  with 
half  the  trouble,  had  I chosen  to  remain  with  the  chiefs 
in  the  centre  of  the  “ cerne,”  and  assist  in  the  medley- 
massacre;  but  I could  see  no  sport  or  excitement  in  a 
scene  resembling  too  closely  the  shambles;  besides 
which,  it  is  impossible  to  have  the  undivided  glory,  as 
the  greater  number  are  pierced  by  three  or  four  arrows, 
and  you  must  either  kill  some  other  hunter’s  wounded 
buffalo,  or  let  him  kill  what  37DU  have  wounded,  neither 
of  which  alternatives  a sportsman  would  choose  to  adopt. 
I cannot  say  exactly  the  amount  of  the  day’s  slaughter, 
but  it  was  between  five  and  six  hundred. 

Soon  after  our  return  from  hunting  I was  invited  to  a 
feast,  where  1 tasted  a most  luxurious  dish,  being  the 
udder  of  a young  cow ; it  was  well  boiled,  and  was  ex- 
tremely sweet,  and  delicate  food. 

In  the  evening,  the  elders,  or  medicine-men,  went 
round  the  encampment,  uttering  loud  cries,  (which  were 
meant  to  express  their  gratitude  to  the  Great  Spirit  for  a 
plentiful  supply  of  buffalo),  and  carrying  a portion  of 
the  meat  to  the  old  and  infirm  who  were  not  able  to 
hunt,  and  who  had  no  young  man  in  their  lodge  to  supply 
them  with  provision. 

About  ten  o’clock  at  night,  after  we  bad  all  betaken 
ourselves  to  our  bear  or  buffalo-skins,  and  the  camp  was 
as  still  as  a Pawnee  camp  can  be,  a sudden  yell  or  shout 
was  raised,  which  reached  the  inmost  recess  of  every 
lodge — “ Charicks  waikta  !”  “ The  enemy  are  upon  us  !” 
In  a moment  all  was  confusion  and  bustle.  The  tent  of 
my  old  chief  was  pitched  at  the  western  extremity  of 
the  “ village,”  and  not  more  than  two  hundred  yards  from 
a small  wooded  ravine.  The  hostile  band  had  contrived 
to  elude  the  vigilance  of  our  outposts,  and  to  reach  this 
place  of  concealment  undiscovered ; consequently  our 
Vol.  1 U 


230 


NIGHT  ATTACK. 


predicament  would  have  been  a dangerous  one,  had  they 
possessed  sufficient  force  to  profit  by  this  advantage,  or 
had  our  warriors  allowed  them  time  to  improve  it.  But 
it  was  beautiful  to  see  the  readiness  and  rapidity  with 
which  our  Pawnees  were  prepared  to  meet  them.  Each 
man’s  bow  and  quiver  were  at  his  head;  the  laryette 
which  secured  his  horse  seived  for  a bridle;  and  in  two 
minutes  from  the  time  when  the  alarm  was  given,  the 
warriors  and  Braves  were  at  full  speed  in  the  direction 
of  the  enemy.  I jumped  up  from  my  bear-skin,  and 
with  a brace  of  pistols  in  my  belt,  a stout  hunting-knife 
at  my  side,  and  a double-rifle  in  my  hand,  lost  not  a 
moment  in  joining  my  old  friend,  the  chief,  at  the  door 
of  his  lodge.  My  first  care  was  to  secure  my  horses, 
which,  scared  by  the  firing,  yelling,  and  galloping  around  j 
them,  struggled  with  all  the  power  of  terror  and  excite- 
ment to  get  free  from  their  fastenings  : fortunately  I had  I 
caused  them  all  to  be  doubly  secured  and  hobbled,  so  | 
that  none  of  them  got  away.  I then  inquired  of  the  Ji 
chief  how  I could  be  useful,  and  he  pointed  to  the  lodge, 
and  the  women  and  children,  giving  me  to  understand  | 
that  I must  stay  and  protect  them.  Indeed,  there  was 
nothing  else  for  me  to  do;  inasmuch  as  had  I sallied  out 
in  the  dark  with  the  others,  I could  not  distinguish  friend  i 
from  foe,  and  should  have  been  as  likely  to  shoot  the 
former  as  the  latter. 

Standing  thus  quietly  on  the  defensive,  I had  leisure  j 
to  enjoy  the  wild  beauty  of  the  scene  before  me.  The 
shrill  and  savage  war-cry  raised  by  a thousand  voices — 
the  neighing,  struggling,  and  trampling  of  the  excited 
horses,  mingled  with  the  howling  of  dogs,  and  the  irregu* 
lar  firing  of  their  guns,  with  which  the  Pawnees  directed 
and  cheered  their  warriors  to  the  scene  of  action — formed  j 
a wild  and  exciting  combination  of  sounds  ; while  the 
groups  of  women  and  children  gathered  round  the  pale 
and  expiring  fires,  and  the  tall  dark  figure  of  the  old 
chief,  standing  with  his  arms  calmly  folded  beside  me, 
served  admirably  to  fill  the  interesting  and  picturesque 
fore-ground.  At  first,  the  shouts  and  yells  approached 
— then  they  receded — then  again  they  came  nearer  and 
nearer,  and  for  a few  minutes,  I thought  we  might  have 


WAR-SONGS. 


231 


a skirmish  before  our  lodge  (which  was,  as  I before  said, 
at  the  very  extremity  of  the  encampment).  My  rifle 
was  ready  with  two  bullets,  each  of  an  ounce  weight ; 
and  as  our  fire  had  been  refreshed,  so  as  to  throw  light 
upon  an  advancing  party,  I felt  pretty  sure  that  two  of 
them  would  pay  the  penalty  of  a near  approach.  But  I 
was  not  destined  either  to  take  or  lose  a scalp  on  this 
occasion  ; the  Pawnees  were  too  strong  and  too  active 
for  their  opponents ; the  yells  became  gradually  more 
faint  and  indistinct ; and  at  length  the  occasional  dis- 
charge of  a gun  at  a distance  was  the  only  audible  sign 
of  conflict  or  pursuit. 

I was  anxious  to  find  out  who  these  fellows  were  who 
had  dared  to  attack  the  Pawnees  in  their  full  encamp- 
ment, and  learned  from  the  first  warriors  who  returned 
that  they  were  S’niennes,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  or 
two  hundred  in  number,  who  had  made  this  bold  attempt 
to  seize  a number  of  the  Pawnee  horses  ; at  least,  it  is 
impossible  to  believe  that  they  could  from  any  other  mo- 
tive have  ventured,  with  a handful  of  men,  to  attack  a 
camp  containing  above  a thousand  warriors,  as  well  or 
better  armed  than  themselves. 

The  Pawnees,  in  making  the  Shienne  sign,  pretend  to 
saw  the  left  arm  with  the  fore-finger  of  the  left-hand; 
thereby  denoting  the  marks  which  distinguish  that  tribe.* 
They  are  a warlike,  marauding  nation,  who  frequent  the 
plains  watered  by  the  sources  of  the  Platte  and  Arkan- 
sas, towards  the  base  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  : they 
are  generally  at  war  with  the  Pawnees. 

As  far  as  I could  hear,  they  escaped  without  losing 
any  of  their  party.  As  soon  as  their  first  attempt  at 
surprise  failed,  they  fled  at  full  speed  ; and  the  darkness 
of  the  night  rendered  pursuit  ineffectual,  if  not  impossi- 
ble. I presume  that  the  Pawnees  guessed  their  number 
by  their  horse-tracks  in  the  morning;  but  possibly  they 
were  not  very  anxious  to  detach  a body  to  follow  them, 
as  they  did  not  know  whether  the  Shiennes  might  not 
have  a considerable  force  to  retire  upon  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. 

* The  reader,  who  is  curious  about  the  Indian  language  of  signs,  is 
referred  to  the  Appendix, 


232 


COUNCIL. 


In  a short  time,  all  was  again  still  in  the  camp  ; no- 
thing stirred,  save  here  and  there  the  dusky  figure  of 
some  returning  warrior  who  had  followed  the  enemy 
farther  than  his  comrades  ; and  no  sound  met  the  ear, 
except  the  low  and  monotonous  war-song  chanted  by 
some  of  the  Braves  as  they  lay  enveloped  in  their  blank- 
ets on  the  side  of  a small  hill  commanding  the  encamp- 
ment. I was  very  sorry  that  I had  no  intelligent  inter- 
preter from  whom  I could  obtain  a translation  of  these 
Indian  lyrics.  I did  contrive,  with  the  aid  of  the  half- 
Frenchman,  to  gather  a few  phrases  which  may  serve 
to  illustrate  the  character  of  the  whole.  “ I rushed  upon 
my  enemy  like  a buffalo  ! — I shouted  my  war-cry  aloud  l 
— Hi-hi-hi-hi-hi ! &c. — I took  his  scalp  ! — His  women 
howl  for  him  in  their  lodge  ! — I am  a great  war-chief  l 
— I am  called  the  Black  Wolf! — Hi-hi-hi-bi !”  These, 
and  similar  effusions  of  savage  simplicity,  form  the  soli- 
tary chant  of  a Pawnee  warrior. 

On  the  following  morning  their  blood  was  boiling  with 
resentment  at  the  affront  which  they  had  received.  A 
council  was  held,  but  they  carefully  concealed  their  de- 
termination from  me ; so  that  I have  little  doubt  that  re- 
prisals of  some  kind  were  carried  nem.  con.  But  of  the 
measures  which  they  adopted  I remained  in  total  igno- 
rance. Doubtless,  they  considered  me  somewhat  in  the 
light  of  a spy  ; for  when  J inquired  whether  they  had 
taken  any  scalps,  or  lost  any  men  in  ihe  skirmish  of  the 
preceding  night,  they  either  pretended  not  to  understand, 
or  made  the  sign  of  “ mystery”  or  “ silence,”  by  placing 
the  hand  before  the  lips,  and  then  extending  it  with  the 
palm  toward  me.  Even  from  Sa-ni-tsa-rish,  who  was 
usually  very  communicative,  and  gave  me  lessons  in  his 
language  daily,  I could  gain  no  information  on  this  sub- 
ject. 

As  they  remained  for  a day  or  two  drying  and  cutting 
up  their  meat,  I employed  myself  in  endeavouring  to  get 
some  idea  of  their  religious  tenets  and  superstitions. 
These  are  at  best  vague  and  undefined  : to  those  who  - 
understand  their  language  they  cannot,  explain  the  theory 
of  their  belief,  and  the  only  method  of  attaining  any 
knowledge  of  the  subject  is,  by  attentive  examination 


DIVISION  OF  THE  YEAR. 


233 


and  careful  comparison  of  the  leading-features  of  their 
practice  and  ceremonial  observances.  As  far  as  I can 
learn,  their  idea  of  a Divinity  is  a single  presiding  Being 
or  Spirit,  generally  benevolent,  but  changeable,  accord- 
ing to  the  supplies  or  offerings  which  he  receives  of  buf- 
falo, of  which  they  dedicate  considerable  portions  to  him, 
(No  small  part  of  this  dedicated  meat  is  consumed  by 
the  medicine-men.)  Besides  this  Supreme  Spirit,  they 
believe  in  others  of  an  inferior  caste,  (like  the  secondary 
gods  in  the  Greek  and  Egyptian,  or  the  genii  and  gnomes 
in  the  Eastern  mythology,)  in  whom  they  imagine  re- 
semblances to  different  kinds  of  animals,  as  buffalo,  deer, 
bears,  &c.  Each  man  considers  himself  under  the  pecu- 
liar care  of  one  of  these  inferior  deities ; and  in  seasons 
of  peril,  grief,  joy,  or  any  other  strong  excitement,  he 
will  work  himself  up  to  a high  pitch  of  enthusiasm,  and 
imitate  his  tutelary  spirit,  either  by  creeping  and  growl- 
ing like  a bear,  or  roaring  and  stamping  like  a buffalo, 
and  so  forth. 

They  never  eat  or  smoke  without  making  a first-offer- 
ing to  the  Great  Spirit.  At  a feast  or  ordinary  meal,  the 
first  spoonful  of  maize  or  morsel  of  meat  is  placed  on 
the  grass  for  his  use  ; and,  when  they  smoke,  the  first 
whiff  is  puffed  upward  in  honour  of  him  ; and  generally 
the  two  succeeding,  one  on  the  right,  the  other  on  the 
~ left,  to  the  buffalo,  or  some  other  spirit.  In  regard  to 
futurity,  they  believe  that,  if  they  have  been  bold  hunters 
and  brave  warriors,  they  will,  after  death,  inhabit  a 
country  where  buffalo  will  be  plentiful,  and  where  the 
chase,  the  feast,  and  the  pipe,  will  form  their  only  occu- 
pation. 

They  divide  their  year  into  twelve  months,  of  thirty 
days,  to  each  of  which  they  give  a name,  descriptive  of 
its  peculiar  produce,  or  occupation,  as  “ the  corn  month” 
— “ the  cold  month” — “ the  sowing  month” — “ the  hot 
month” — “ the  buffalo  month,”  &c. ; but  I find  that,  with 
some  other  Indian  tribes,  the  year  consists  of  six  months  ; 
and  the  spring  hunt  and  the  winter  hunt  make  the  two 
years.* 

* A similar  method  of  naming  the  months  obtains  among  the  tribes 
inhabiting  the  regions  of  the  Upper  Mississippi,  as  the  Ojjibeways, 


234 


SOLDIERS. 


The  28th  of  July,  which  was  a beautiful  day  for  buf- 
falo hunting,  was  entirely  lost,  (although  the  animals 
were  close  to  the  encampment  and  the  wind  favourable,) 
owing  to  the  superstitious  folly  of  the  Indians,  or  rather, 
perhaps,  to  the  intrigues  of  the  chiefs.  After  going 
through  a ceremony  somewhat  similar  to  the  Heathen 
augury,  the  Great  Spirit  was  declared  by  the  medicine- 
men to  be  unpropitious  for  a hunt,  and  most  of  the  day 
was  consumed  in  electing  “ soldiers.”  This  is  the  third 
class,  or  caste,  among  the  Pawnees,  having  their  rank 
next,  to  the  braves  ; their  office  is  to  watch  the  buffalo 
herds  and  the  encampment,  and  to  prevent  any  individual 
of  their  own,  or  another  nation,  from  hunting  without 
their  permission ; in  the  discharge  of  this  duty  they  are 
authorized  to  give  a severe  flogging,  with  whips  of  buf- 
falo-hide, to  any  one,  even  a chief,  who  transgresses  the 
rules.  These  soldiers,  under  the  direction  of  the  great 
chief  and  the  medicine,  have  the  management  of  the 
hunt ; and  as  there  existed  some  jealousy  between  the 
Grand  and  the  Republican  Pawnees,  they  could  not  settle 
which  party  should  take  the  lead  on  this  occasion  in  ap- 
pointing the  soldiers,  and  the  day  was  lost  in  disputing. 

As  far  as  my  opportunities  enable  me  to  judge,  the 
Republicans  are  more  dangerous  and  more  given  to  thiev- 
ing than  any  other  band  of  Pawnees.  A “cerne,”  or 
“surround,”  in  this  part  of  the  wilderness,  requires  a 
great  deal  of  arrangement  to  render  it  successful ; and 
strange  to  say,  it  appears  to  me  that  the  Indians  have 
much  less  sagacity  in  this  method  of  hunting  than  white 
men.  The  outline  of  the  plan  is  simple  enough  ; it  is 
merely  to  find  out  accurately  the  position  of  the  herd  de- 

Menomenees  (or  wild  rice-eaters),  &c.  They  divide  the  year  into  a 
certain  number  of  moons,  some  of  which  are  called  after  particular  ber- 
ries that  ripen  at  the  season,  as  “ Ota-ha-mene  Kezus,”  the  wild-straw- 
berry moon — “ Meno-me-he,  ka-we  Kezus,”  the  wild-rice  gathering 
inoon,”  &c.  Other  months  are  called  in  a similar  manner,  “Leaf-fall- 
ing moon,”  “ Deer-rutting  moon,”  “ Ice-moon,”  &e.  Mackenzie  says 
that  the  Knisteneaux,  who,  like  the  abovementioned  tribes,  are  a branch 
of  the  Algonkin  race  or  nation,  name  most  of  their  months  after  diffe- 
rent animals,  as  “ the  moon  when  birds  lay  eggs!’ — the  moon  when 
birds  cast  feathers” — “ the  moon  when  the  moose  sheds  his  hoins,”  &c. 
Vide  “ Mackenzie’s  History  of  the  Fur  Trade,”  p,  100. 


BUFFALO  HUNT. 


233 


voted  to  destruction,  and  then  to  send  out  distant  parties, 
which  are  simultaneously  to  approach  from  different 
points,  and  hem  them  in  on  every  side.  This  operation 
is  easy  on  level  giound;  but  the  country  we  now  tra- 
versed was  abrupt  and  hilly,  full  of  deep,  sandy,  and 
broken  ravines  ; thus  the  approaching  parties  were  often 
concealed  from  the  view  of  each  other;  some  would 
press  on  too  quickly,  others  arrive  too  late,  and  frequently 
hundreds  of  buffalo  escaped,  without  a shot,  through 
some  steep  gorge  or  valley,  which  had  not  been  observed 
nor  guarded. 

The  buffalo,  huge  and  unwieldy  as  he  is,  goes  over 
the  ground  at  a rate  which  is  surprising  ; he  bounds  along 
with  large  though  clumsy  strides  ; and  in  a rough  country 
he  dashes  down  the  steep  sides  of  the  broken  ravines, 
making  the  dust,  the  sand,  and  the  stones,  fly  around 
him,  with  a furious  rapidity,  that  defies  the  pursuit  of  a 
rider  who  has  any  regard  for  the  neck  of  his  horse  or  for 
himself.  The  female,  the  constant  object  of  the  hunter, 
from  the  superior  quality  and  tenderness  of  her  flesh,  is 
beyond  all  comparison  swifier  than  the  male  ; she  can 
run  nearly  three  miles  to  his  two,  and  gives  a very  fair 
chase  to  a horse  of  middling  speed,  fed  only  on  grass, 
and  carrying  a man  of  ordinary  size.  Moreover,  the  In- 
dians have  neither  mercy  nor  consideration  for  their  un- 
fortunate steeds  : they  ride  with  reckless  fury,  and  often 
bring  them  exhausted  and  breathless  to  charge  a fresh 
buffalo.  On  these  occasions  their  temerity  is  sometimes 
rewarded  by  severe  wounds,  sometimes  by  death  ; but 
the  latter  is  not  often  the  case,  so  great  are  their  activity 
and  fleetness  of  foot  should  their  horse  be  killed.  Tn  the 
last  hunt  which  I described,  two  horses  were  gored  to 
death,  and  one  Indian  had  his  arm  broken. 

On  the  29th  July,  the  whole  village  was  like  one  work- 
shop, the  women  being  all  employed  in  cleaning  and  pre- 
paring ihe  skins,  which  was  not  a matter  of  much  im- 
portance at  ihis  season,  as  the  hair  on  the  buffalo  is,  ac- 
cording to  the  usual  provision  of  nature,  poorer  and 
shorier  in  the  summer  than  in  the  winter.  The  skins 
which  they  prepare  in  ihe  former,  are  chiefly  used  in  the 
construction  of  iheir  lodges,  the  making  of  laryettes  and 


236 


STRANGE  FUEL. 


thongs,  as  well  as  of  wrappers  for  bales,  &c.  It  may 
not  be  uninteresting  to  record  their  process  of  prepara- 
tion. They  first  take  the  skin  and  stretch  it  in  the  sun, 
fixing  it  by  small  wooden  pegs,  driven  through  its  border 
all  round,  into  the  earth : when  thoroughly  dry,  they 
scrape  all  the  hair  from  one  side  and  the  scurfy  horny 
matter  from  the  other,  with  a kind  of  crooked  chisel, 
made  sometimes  of  hard  wood,  more  frequently  of  part 
of  the  leg-bone  of  the  buffalo  : they  then  proceed  to 
soften  the  skin  by  spreading  over  it  brains  or  any  other 
mucilage  which  they  can  procure.  The  skins  thus  pre- 
pared are  pliant  and  convenient  materials  for  a lodge  or 
tent,  and  resist  the  wet  tolerably  well.  The  process  of 
preparation  for  the  buffalo-robe  in  autumn  and  winter, 
is  something  similar  as  regards  the  inside  of  the  skin  : a 
good  one  is  worth,  at  any  of  the  Missouri  agencies,  three 
dollars  and  a half ; at  St.  Louis,  five ; and  at  one  of  the 
atlantic  cities,  from  six  and  a half  to  ten,  according  to  the 
quality  : the  best  are  those  made  from  animals  killed  in 
October,  as  the  hair  is  then  young,  fine,  and  soft. 

On  the  evening  of  the  29th,  both  my  laryettes  (which 
were  very  strong  and  valuable  of  their  kind)  were  stolen 
from  my  two  horses,  though  tied  not  more  than  thirty 
yards  from  the  front  of  our  lodge.  I should  have  been 
angry,  had  I not  felt  grateful  that  the  rogues  had  not 
taken  the  horses  also  ! 

The  wood  in  this  region  was  extremely  scarce,  and 
the  unfortunate  squaws  were  rambling  in  all  directions 
to  collect  buffalo-dung  dried  in  the  sun  ; of  this  strange 
fuel  they  brought  in  a great  quantity  : when  once  tho- 
roughly ignited,  it  burns  very  well,  emits  a strong  heat, 
and  its  smell  is  not  so  offensive  as  might  be  expected  ; 
nevertheless,  I did  not  feel  disposed  to  follow  the  exam- 
ple of  my  red  friends,  who  squatted  close  round  it  in  a 
circle,  and  threw  on  it  thick  slices  of  buffalo  meat,  which 
they  allowed  to  roast  there  for  a minute  or  two,  in  ac- 
tual contact  with  the  fuel,  when  they  picked  them  out 
with  their  knives,  and  thus  dined  ! 

On  the  30th,  the  Great  Spirit  was  still  unpropitious, 
and  I had  leisure  to  pursue  my  inquiries  into  the  struc- 
ture of  the  Pawnee  language. 


OTOE  CHIEF. 


237 


We  broke  up  our  encampment  late  in  the  evening 
and  travelled  till  ten  at  night,  when  we  lay  down  on  the 
prairie  without  lodges,  fire,  water,  or  food  ; started  the 
following  morning  at  three,  and  marched  about  ten  miles 
due  south,  when  we  pitched  our  camp  by  a small  stream- 
let. We  were  obliged  to  pursue  this  southern  course, 
as  the  Indians  informed  me  that  neither  firewood  nor 
water  was  to  be  obtained  in  a more  westerly  direction ; 
and  we  must  hereafter  make  a south-eastern  march  in 
order  to  avail  ourselves  of  the  sources  of  the  Saline  ri- 
ver. and  other  streams  falling  into  the  Kanzas,  and  divid- 
ed from  the  upper  waters  of  the  Arkansas,  by  a high 
narrow  ridge  of  country  which  now  lay  immediately 
before  us. 

The  Pawnees  being  at  peace  with  the  Otoes,  had  al- 
lowed a small  band  of  that  tribe  to  hunt  with  them  this 
season  : they  were  led  by  their  chief  Iotan,  whose  name 
is  well-known  to  all  those  wrho  are  familiar  with  the  his- 
tory of  the  western  tribes.  The  storv  of  his  deadly  feud 
with  his  elder  brother,  in  which  the  latter  bit  off  his  nose, 
and  afterward  fell  by  his  rifle,  has  often  been  repeated 
to  me  ; once,  indeed,  by  an  eye-witness  of  the  brawl. 
The  elder  brother  had  repeatedly  insulted  and  even  beat 
the  Iotan,  as  he  was  a man  of  greater  stature  and  per- 
sonal strength  ; but  the  Iotan  is  a brave  and  haughty 
warrior,  and  the  biting  off  his  nose  was  an  outrage  not 
to  be  pardoned  even  in  a brother;  accordingly,  he  re- 
venged it,  and  never  attempted  to  fly,  but  awaited  the 
sentence  of  the  council  of  Braves,  which  terminated  in 
his  being  elected  chief  in  his  brother’s  place.  This 
chief  is  highly  esteemed,  and  has  taken  many  scalps  in 
his  early  days ; and  even  now,  the  fifty-five  or  sixty  years 
which  have  passed  over  him,  have  neither  dimmed  the 
Are  of  his  eye  nor  stiffened  the  elasticity  of  his  joints. 
He  is  accompanied  by  four  or  five  of  his  braves  and  by 
one  of  his  wives.  These  men  are  more  civilized  than 
the  Pawnees, ^and  I believe  affect  to  despise  them;  but 
in  horsemanship,  as  well  as  in  wild  picturesque  appear- 
ance and  habits,  they  are  very  inferior.  Old  Iotan  is 
upon  very  friendly  terms  with  the  whites  : he  speaks  a 
few  words  of  English ; and  I learned  from  him  some- 


238 


GREAT  MEDICINE  CHIEF. 


thing  of  his  language : he  is  a brave,  daring,  and  yet  a 
quiet  chief — but,  alas  ! he  has  been  corrupted  by  the 
poison  of  the  whiskey  bottle. 

I went  this  day  (31st)  to  a great  medicine  feast  of 
chiefs,  including  all  the  principal  warriors  of  the  grand 
Pawnees,  ihe  Tapages,  the  Loups,  and  the  Otoe  Chief. 
As  usual  in  such  cases,  the  feast  consisted  of  only  one 
kind  of  food,  and  the  number  of  wooden  bowls  and  buf- 
falo-horn spoons  indicated  that  fifty  guests  were  expected 
to  empty  an  enormous  caldron  of  maize,  which  was  boil- 
ing on  a fire  before  the  lodge  : no  excuses  of  illness  or 
occupation  are  ever  offered  or  accepted  , and  if  one  guest 
happens  to  be  absent,  the  party,  however  numerous  it 
may  be,  must  patiently  await  his  arrival.  On  this  oc- 
casion we  waited  an  hour  and  a half  before  the  assem- 
blage was  complete,  during  which  the  medicine  pips 
went  solemnly  and  regularly  round,  and  the  monotonous 
dignity  of  silence  was  rather  heightened  than  diminished 
by  the  volumes  of  Kirmckenik  smoke  which  hovered 
lazily  over  the  motionless  group.  When  the  last  guest 
had  arrived,  we  were  seated  in  two  rows,  each  consist- 
ing of  twenty-five  persons,  face  to  face,  like  a sedentary 
country  dance,  and  the  ceremony  was  commenced  by  an 
impromptu  oration  from  an  aged  medicine-man  selected 
by  the  great  chief. 

This  speech  was  an  eulogium  on  the  giver  of  the  feast, 
narrating  the  deeds  of  his  father,  and  concluding  with  an 
enumeration  of  his  own  prowess  in  battle,  and  generosity 
in  furnishing  the  banquet.  The  orator  spoke  with  great 
fluency,  and  with  a mixture  of  simplicity  and  dignity,  | 
which  gave  a pleasing  effect  to  that  which  was  in  reality 
little  more  than  fulsome  and  reiterated  flattery.  A great 
portion  of  his  oration  was  in  the  form  of  question,  or 
appeal  to  the  audience;  such  as,  “Was  not  his  father 
a great  chief  among  the  people  ? — was  he  n*t  called  ‘ the 
bear  who  walks  at  night?’ — Is  not  this  chief  like  tfis  fa-  ! 
ther  ? — has  he  not  slain  men  ? — is  not  his^medicine-bag 
full  ?: — is  not  his  hand  open  to  us  now  1 — is  not  his 
tongue  single  ?”  Such  was  the  tenour  of  his  language, 
according  to  what  I could  gather,  and  to  such  informa- 
tion as  I could  gain  from  the  interpreter.  At  the  con- 


IMPROMPTU  ORATION. 


239 


elusion  of  each  of  these  questions  he  made  a pause  ; 
and  his  audience  testified  their  assent  with  the  customary 
interjection  “ Hou  ! hou  !”  which  they  continued  a few 
moments  after  he  had  ceased,  in  a manner  less  noisy,  but 
similar  to  the  “ hears”  which  gratify  a speaker  in  the 
House  of  Commons  when  he  resumes  his  seat. 

Other  orators,  selected  apparently  by  acclamation, 
though  quietly  and  without  confusion,  followed  in  a like 
strain  ; and  the  feature  most  remarkable  in  their  style  of 
speaking  was  the  total  absence  of  hesitation,  and  the 
apparent  facility  and  fluency  of  their  enunciation. 

There  is  great  beauty  of  modulation  in  the  tones  of 
an  Indian  orator’s  voice,  and  I must  confess  that  1 have 
never  in  civilized  life  heard  one  that  combined  so  much 
terrible  fierceness  with  the  softest  and  gentlest  accents. 
The  transition  from  one  to  the  other  is  rapid,  but  not 
ungraceful,  because  the  whole  man  is  imbued  with  his 
subject ; and  while  the  praise  of  hospitality,  or  a “ single 
tongue,”  is  delivered  with  a grave  and  gentle  demeanour, 
the  threatenings  of  revenge,  the  recital  of  a bloody  fray, 
and  the  declamation  of  angry  invective,  transform  the 
orator  into  a fierce  warrior ; his  eye  becomes  red  and 
dilated — the  veins  on  his  forehead  start  into  ridges  like 
cordage,  while  the  muscular  heaving  of  the  advanced 
and  swollen  chest,  give  full  effect  to  the  rapid  utterance 
of  the  lips  and  the  terrible  loudness  of  the  voice. 

To  return  to  our  feast.  As  soon  as  these  orations 
were  concluded,  twenty-five  large  wooden  bowls  of  maize 
were  placed  before  the  guests,  two  spoons  being  placed 
in  each  bowl,  and  the  messmates  being  vis-a-vis,  and  not 
side  by  side.  Before  a morsel  was  tasted,  the  first  chief  set 
apart  one  large  spoonful,  and  gave  it  to  the  master  of  the 
ceremonies,  or  the  officiating  medicine-man,  who  made 
with  his  scalping-knife  two  small  holes  in  the  earth  ; and 
having  divided  the  spoonful  of  maize  into  two  unequal 
portions,  the  larger  of  which  was  dedicated  to  the  buffalo 
(subordinate  spirit),  the  smaller  to  the  Great  Spirit,  he 
turned  to  the  east,  and  three  times  bowed  his  body,  at 
the  same  time  raising  and  lowering  his  hands : then 
again  he  turned  to  the  guests,  and  went  through  the  same 
ceremonial  of  benediction,  after  which  the  work  of  de- 
molition began. 


240 


RAPID  FEEDING. 


In  many  of  the  feasts  which  I had  previously  attend- 
ed, I had  been  led  to  admire  the  capacity  and  perseve- 
rance of  hungry  Indians,  but  I had  never  before  been 
witness  to  a trial  of  speed  such  as  the  present.  On 
ordinary  occasions,  the  Pawnee  rule  of  etiquette  is,  that 
when  the  invited  guests  have  eaten  as  much  as  they 
please  of  the  meal  set  before  them,  he  among  them  who 
came  in  last,  and  occupies  the  place  farthest  from  the 
host — usually  the  extreme  left — takes  the  remainder, 
whether  it  be  buffalo  meat  or  maize,  and  carries  it  back 
to  the  women  of  his  lodge  ; an  omission  of  this  usage 
is  considered  an  incivility;  but  on  the  present  occasion 
the  rule  was,  not  only  that  every  thing  must  be  eaten  on 
the  spot , but  should  also  be  devoured  as  soon  as  possi- 
ble ; and  those  who  were  last  in  this  masticatory  or  di- 
gestive race,  were  laughed  at  and  lightly  esteemed  by 
their  competitors.*  The  bowls  held  about  three  quarts 
each  of  boiled  maize,  which,  from  protracted  simmering 
over  the  fire,  had  acquired  a consistency  between  that  of 
porridge  and  paste  : this  glutinous  mass  was  to  be  swal- 
lowed without  the  aid  of  milk,  salt,  water,  or  any  other 
assistant  whatsoever ; and,  to  crown  my  misfortunes,  I 
had  already  been  to  two  common  feasts,  and  had  taken 
my  usual  quantum  of  dinner  before  I received  this  great 
medicine-invitation. 

Of  course,  my  first  impulse  was  to  cast  an  inquiring 
look  at  the  corporeal  proportions  of  the  partner  whom 
fate  (or  rather  the  great  chief)  had  allotted  to  me  in  the 
approaching  trial,  in  the  hope  that  my  eye  might  rest 
upon  some  lanky  capacious  man,  who  might  have,  like 
Cassius,  “ a lean  and  hungry  look but  alas  ! it  fell 
upon  the  round  and  good-humoured  countenance  of  a 
plump  little  chief,  who  had  accompanied  us  from  Fort 
Leavenworth,  and  whom  I knew,  from  the  circumstance 
of  his  father  having  saved  the  life  of  my  friend  Captain 

C , of  the  United  States’  army,  on  an  occasion  when 

he  had  been  so  unfortunate  as  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  a 
hostile  Pawnee  party.  My  “fat  friend”  gave  me  to  un- 
derstand that  his  stomach  was  not  in  fighting  order,  and  I 

* For  a similar  custom  among  the  Knisteneaux  Indians,  see  Appendix.  - 


RAPID  FEEDING. 


241 


cast  a rueful  glance  at  the  great  bowl  before  me,  revolving 
in  my  mind  the  various  gastric  feats  performed  by  Jack 
the  Giant-killer,  Fortumo’s  follower,  and  other  heroes 
celebrated  in  nursery  legends  ; but  there  was  little  time 
for  reflection — the  signal  was  given,  and  the  onset  com- 
menced. 

1 have  read  in  travel  volumes,  and  I have  seen  in- 
stances, of  the  extraordinary  speed  with  which  the  mixed 
company  at  crowded  American  hotels  or  steam-boat  din- 
ners can  clear  a well-loaded  table  ; but  here  they  would 
have  been  distanced,  and  beaten  beyond  all  comparison. 
Neither  do  I believe  that  any  of  them,  from  a Yankee 
pedler  to  a Kentucky  boatman  inclusive,  could  have 
demolished  one-third  of  the  mess  in  the  allotted  time. 
In  all  my  intercourse  with  the  Pawnees,  I made  it  a rule 
to  humour  their  prejudices,  and  to  accommodate  myself 
to  their  usages,  however  absurd.  Moreover,  I endea- 
voured to  make  them  believe  that  I could  surpass  them 
in  anything  which  J chose  to  attempt.  I had  contrived 
to  give  currency  to  this  belief,  by  engaging  some  of  their 
strongest  men  in  the  exercise  of  throwing,  or  “putting,” 
a heavy  stone,  to  which  they  were  altogether  unaccus- 
tomed ; and,  more  than  once,  by  shooting  with  them  at 
a distant  mark,  where  the  great  superiority  of  my  rifle 
over  their  miserable  guns  enabled  me  to  hit  an  object  at 
a hundred  and  fifty  yards,  which  they  could  not  touch  at 
fifty. 

I thought  it  essential  to  my  estimation,  if  not  to  my 
safety  among  them,  to  keep  up  this  belief  in  my  supe- 
riority ; and  even  in  the  present  absurd  instance  1 did  not 
wish  that  our  bowl  should  be  the  last  finished.  How- 
ever,  it  was  in  vain  that  I attacked  it  with  a most  deter- 
mined spirit  ; the  solid,  sticky,  indigestible  mass  resisted 
my  utmost  efforts  ; and  while  I was  labouring  at  the 
mastication  of  small  morsels,  I could  see  fragments  of 
one  or  two  square  inches  finding  their  easy  way  down 
the  Indian-rubber  throat s of  mv  competitors.  Any  man 
who  has  seen  a small  short-legged  spaniel  running  after  a 
large  rough  greyhound,  in  heather  between  two  and  three 
feet  high,  can  form  an  estimate  of  the  kind  of  race  in 
which  I was  here  engaged. 

Vol.  I.— X 


242 


MANNER  OF  1NVIT  ATICN. 


Fortunately  for  my  credit,  my  plump  comrade  stop- 
ped short,  and  pleaded  severe  illness,  (which  was,  indeed, 
true,  for,  instead  of  stuffing  himself  with  maize,  he 
ought  to  have  been  using  fever  medicine  and  the  lancet  ;) 
and  his  left-hand  neighbour,  a huge  hungry  warrior,  who 
had  already  disposed  of  his  allowance,  was  permitted  to 
replace  him.  With  the  aid  of  this  new  ally,  my  bowl 
became  more  empty.  I contrived  to  give  him  the  largest 
spoon,  and  used  other  generous  devices  to  bestow  upon 
him  at  least  two-thirds  of  our  mess,  of  all  which  move- 
ments on  my  part  he  seemed  perfectly  unconscious;  but 
he  went  quietly  on,  swallowing  his  portion  with  imper- 
turbable gravity  ; and  when  our  bowl  was  emptied,  he 
seemed  as  ready  to  begin  another  as  before.  Alas  ! even 
with  this  powerful  auxiliary,  I was  last  but  one  in  the 
sweepstakes. 

The  ordinary  method  of  invitation  to  a feast  is  as  fol- 
lows : — A boy  or  lad,  not  yet  classed  among  the  hunters, 
is  sent  from  the  lodge  of  the  host  to  that  of  the  invited 
party;  on  arriving,  he  merely  mentions  the  name  of  the 
latter,  making  a slight  inclination  of  the  head,  when  he 
remains  perfectly  still  until  the  guest  rises  to  follow  him 
to  the  feasting-lodge.  These  young  messengers  are  pro- 
vokingly  persevering  in  the  discharge  of  their  office,  and 
will  find  the  victim  of  their  politeness  however  desirous 
he  may  be  of  absenting  himself.  On  one  occasion, 
having  eaten  three  or  four  dinners  of  buffalo  meat,  and 
dreading  another  invitation,  I took  my  rifle  and  strolled 
along  the  banks  of  a creek  for  two  or  three  miles,  until  I 
found  a few  dwarf  elders,  which  promised  the  luxury  of 
a littlp  quiet  and  shade.  I lay  dowm  below  them,  drew 
a volume  from  my  pocket,  and  began  to  read. 

I had  been  thus  occupied  not  more  than  ten  minutes, 
w hen  I heard  a gentle  voice  by  my  side  call  me  by  name, 
Keshada-ia-ka  (white  chief) ; I looked  up,  and  saw  a boy 
about  twelve  years  of  age,  who  had  followed  or  tracked 
me  all  this  distance  to  summon  me  to  a feast.  I was 
obliged  to  replace  Milton  in  my  pocket  and  follow  my 
young  tormentor,  under  the  penalty  of  insulting  the  In- 
dian who  had  sent  him. 

August  1. — This  day  was,  I believe,  the  anniversary 


A STAMPEDO. 


243 


of  my  arrival  in  the  United  States  ; but  how  different 
in  character  and  temperature  ! The  wind  blew  from  the 
north-east,  accompanied  by  a drizzling  rain,  over  an 
ocean  of  prairie,  where  there  was  neither  tree  nor  moun- 
tain to  check  its  sweeping  course ; and  the  day  was  cer- 
tainly as  raw  and  cold  as  an  average  November  in  Scot- 
land ; whereas,  on  the  same  day  last  year,  the  thermo- 
meter in  the  shade  at  New  York  was  at  Fahrenheit. 

The  character  of  the  country  was  somewhat  changed 
since  we  left  the  north  branch  of  the  Kanzas  river,  as 
it  became  gradually  more  flinty.  The  only  vegetation 
was  the  prickly  pear  and  the  grass  ; which  last,  though 
very  short,  is  sweet  and  nutritious,  and  would,  I believe, 
make  excellent  sheep-pasture,  but  the  wolves  would  be 
the  only  shepherds  ; for  assuredly  no  human  being  could 
reside  permanently  in  this  barren  wilderness,  ill-supplied 
as  it  is  with  water,  and  worse  with  fuel.  We  wasted 
day  after  day  in  idleness,  and  began  to  be  most  heartily 
tired  of  our  Pawnee  friends. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

A Stampedo. — Number  of  Horses  in  the  Encampment. — Moccasins. — 
Prickly  Pears — Feet  wounded  by  them. — Indian  Surgery. — Impro- 
vident Inactivity. — Desire  to  return  to  the  civilized  World. — Indian 
distortion. — Medical  Faculty. — Modeof  Practice  — Stroll  after  Night- 
fall.— Narrow  Escape. — Scarcity  of  Water. — Haitans. — Buffalo 
Hunt. — Dinner  on  raw  Buffalo  Meat. — Long  Shot  at  an  Antelope. — 
Advantage  of  the  Bow  over  the  Rifle  in  Buffalo  Hunting. — Value  of 
the  Buffalo  to  the  Western  Tribes. — An  Accident. — Extraordinary 
Spot. — Bird  Nesting. — My  Library. — Thoughts  of  Home. — Herd  of 
Buffalo. 


In  the  last  six  days  we  had  travelled  but  few  miles ; 
and,  exeept  in  pursuing  my  difficult  and  unsatisfactory 
inquiries  into  the  customs  and  language  of  the  Pawnees, 
I had  little  to  relieve  the  dirty  monotony  of  our  lives. 
One  evening,  however,  we  had  a magnificent  specimen 
of  a scene  of  which  I had  previously  seen  instances  of 
a more  partial  character  ; this  is  called  by  the  white  Ira- 


344 


A STAMPEDO. 


ders  a Stampedo  ; a most  expressive  word,  which  the 
following  sketch  may  serve  to  explain  : — 

About  an  hour  after  the  usual  time  at  which  the  horses 
were  brought  in  for  the  night,  hobbled,  and  otherwise 
secured  near  the  tents  and  fires  of  their  respective  own- 
ers, an  indistinct  sound  arose  like  the  muttering  of  distant 
thunder.  As  it  approached  it  became  mingled  with  the 
howling  of  all  the  dogs  in  the  encampment,  and  with  the 
shouts  and  yells  of  the  Indians.  In  coming  nearer,  it 
rose  high  above  all  these  accompaniments,  and  resem- 
bling the  lashing  of  a heavy  surf  upon  a beach.  On 
and  on  it  rolled  towards  us,  and  partly  from  my  own 
hearing,  partly  from  the  hurried  words  and  actions  of 
the  tenants  of  our  lodge,  I gathered  that  it  must  be  the 
fierce  and  uncontrollable  gallop  of  thousands  of  panic- 
stricken  horses. 

As  this  living  torrent  drew  nigh,  I sprang  to  the  front 
of  the  tent,  seized  my  favourite  riding-marej  and,  in  ad- 
dition to  the  hobbles  which  confined  her,  twisted  the  long 
laryette  round  her  fore-legs,  then  led  her  immediately  in 
front  of  the  fire,  hoping  that  the  excited  and  maddened 
flood  of  horses  would  divide,  and  pass  on  each  side  of  it. 
At  the  same  time  I directed  my  servant  to  secure  anoiher 
of  my  horses  ; but  he  was  so  confused  and  astonished 
by  the  roaring  tumultuous  sound,  that  he  seemed  to  have 
thought  that  the  Shiennes  were  again  attacking  us— and, 
instead  of  following  my  instructions,  ran  about,  before 
and  in  the  tent,  looking  for  pistols  l As  the  gallopping 
mass  drew  nigh,  our  horses  began  to  snort,  prick  up  their 
ears,  and  then  to  tremble  ; and,  when  it  burst  upon  us, 
they  became  completely  ungovernable  from  terror.  All 
broke  loose  and  joined  their  affrighted  companions,  ex- 
cept  my  mare,  which  struggled  with  the  fury  of  a wild 
beast,  and  I only  retained  her  by  using  all  my  strength, 
and  at  last  throwing  her  on  her  side.  On  went  the  mad- 
dened troop,  trampling,  in  their  headlong  speed,  over 
skins,  dried  meat,  &c.,  and  throwing  down  some  of  the 
smaller  tents.  They  were  soon  lost  in  the  darkness  of 
night  and  in  the  wilds  of  the  prairie,  and  nothing  more 
was  heard  of  them  save  the  distant  yelping  of  the  curs 
which  continued  their  ineffectual  pursuit. 


HORSE'S  IN  THE  CAMP. 


245 


This  is  a stampedo , and  is  one  of  the  most  extraor- 
dinary scenes  I have  ever  beheld, -as  may  easily  be  ima- 
gined by  any  one  who  reflects  that  this  race  of  terror  is 
run  in  darkness,  only  partially  lighted  by  the  fitful  glare 
of  half-extinguished  fires,  and  that  it  is  moreover  run  by 
several  thousand  steeds,  driven  by  terror  to  ungovernable 
madness.  The  first  origin  of  the  panic  I never  could 
learn  ; but  its  consequences  were  such  as  might  be  sup- 
posed, namely,  that  the  whole  of  the  following  day  was 
occupied  in  driving  back,  securing,  and  appropriating  the 
horses  to  their  respective  masters.  I do  not  think  that 
many  were  lost  to  their  rightful  owners.  For  my  part, 
] lost  none  ; but,  by  a strange  inconsequence  of  honesty 
among  my  Pawnee  friends,  all  my  halters  and  laryeltes, 
broken  or  unbroken,  were  taken  away.  The  reader  may 
imagine  that  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  ascertain,  with 
any  approach  to  accuracy,  the  number  of  horses  in  the 
Pawnee  encampment ; but,  lest  he  should  be  disposed 
to  consider  the  above  description  exaggerated,  I will 
subjoin  the  facts  upon  which  I founded  my  calculation. 

There  were  in  all  about  six  hundred  lodges.  Some 
of  the  poorest  families  had  perhaps  only  two  or  three 
horses,  wherewith  to  transport  all  their  meats,  skins, 
children,  and  the  poles  and  other  articles  composing  the 
lodge  ; but  many  of  the  chiefs  and  braves,  who  had  been 
successful  in  war-parties,  had  from  eight  to  twelve.  My 
old  chief,  Sa-ni-tsa-rish,  had  been  robbed  of  most  of  his 
horses  the  preceding  year  by  a hostile  party  of  Sioux, 
and  he  gave  me  to  understand,  that  his  eldest  son  was 
now  on  an  excursion  beyond  the  Arkansas,  to  trade  for 
some  with  the  Camanches,  Haitans,  and  other  southern 
tribes  ; meanwhile  he  had  only  five  or  six,  and  those  of 
the  meanest  description.  But  I examined  more  than 
once  the  stud  of  the  great  chief,  and  of  his  son  Pa6-ta®- 
lae-cha’rd ; the  latter  had  three  or  four  mules  and  fifteen 
or  twenty  horses  ; the  former  at  least  thirty,  among  which 
were  some  wild,  some  Spanish,  and  three  of  American 
breed. 

After  this  little  incident,  we  resumed  our  usual  routine 
of  feasts  'of  buffalo  meat,  and  sometimes  half-boiled 
maize,  bruised  or  whole,  eight  or  ten  times  a-day.  As 

X^* 


246 


Moccasins. 


hunting  was  strictly  forbidden,  the  only  change  from 
these  continual  and  uninviting  meals,  was  to  lie  in  the 
close  and  dirty  lodge,  wvhere  the  perpetual  squalling  of 
children  rendered  reading  almost  impossible.  The 
squaws  in  our  lodge  continued  to  be  very  kind  to  me, 
and  often  was  I roused  from  a reverie  or  a short  sleep  by 
feeling  them  tickle  my  feet,  in  endeavouring  to  fit  upon 
them  a pair  of  moccasins  which  they  had  made  for  me. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  moccasins  of  almost  all  the 
tribes  differ  from  each  other  in  fashion  and  ornament; 
and  if  an  experienced  prairie  hunter  finds  one  in  the 
wilderness,  he  can  form  a shrewd  guess  at  the  tribe  of 
him  who  dropped  it.  Among  them  all  I think  the  most 
ugly  and  shapeless  are  those  of  my  friends  the  Pawnees; 
however,  as  the  squaws  gave  them  to  me,  I felt  bound  to 
wear  them  ; and  my  gallantry  cost  me  dear,  for  the  plain 
where  we  were  camped  was  full  of  prickly  pears*  and 
those  too  the  coarsest  and  largest  which  I had  yet  seen  ; 
some  of  the  thorns  on  the  leaves  were  four  or  five  inches 
long,  w’ith  a kind  of  bulb  or  barb  at  the  point,  supposed 
to  be  slightly  charged  with  poison.  How  the  Indians 
avoid  them  in  the  dark  I cannot  learn  ; certain  it  is,  how- 
ever, that  in  going  about  camp  after  dusk  I wounded  my 
feet  repeatedly,  though  I could  not  see  many  Indians 
lamed  by  them.  But  at  last  I received  so  severe  a lesson 
that  I was  obliged  to  give  up  my  moccasins,  and  take 
again  to  my  thick  shoes,  until  we  should  leave  this  sandy 
region. 

I was  going  out  to  feast  at  the  lodge  of  a Tapage 
brave,  who  lived  at  some  distance,  and  the  evening  had 
closed  in  before  I reached  it.  My  path  lay  through  a 
bed  of  these  odious  plants.  I put  my  left  foot  upon  one, 
and  receiving  a smart  puncture,  leaped  forward,  and  came 
with  my  right  foot,  and  with  all  my  weight,  full  upon 
another;  a strong  thorn  ran  an  inch  or  two  into  my  foot 
below  the  instep,  and  as  I stumbled,  broke  off  nearly 
even  with  the  skin.  I limped  forward  as  well  as  I w'as 
able,  and  finding  my  host  sitting  behind  his  fire,  accosted 
him  with  the  usual  salutation,  “ Lovv-a,”  and,  according 


* The  botanical  name  is  Cactus  ferox . 


INDIAN  SURGERY. 


247 


to  Indian  custom,  took  my  seat  by  him  in  silence,  with- 
out mentioning  my  hurt,  although  my  foot  felt  as  if  on  fire. 
He  happened  to  be  a good-natured  fellow,  and  while  the 
squaws  were  separating,  and  laying  before  each  of  the 
guests  a buffalo-rib,  he  pointed  to  my  foot,  and  said, 
“The  Chalick’s  ta-ka  is  hurt.”  I told  him,  with  as  much 
indifference  as  I could  affect,  that  a thorn  had  gone 
through  my  moccasin,  and  was  now  deep  in  my  foot. 
He  said  one  of  his  young  men  should  take  it  out ; and 
gave  directions  to  a youth  of  about  twenty  to  come  for- 
ward. When  the  stocking  and  moccasin  were  removed, 
and  my  white  foot  and  ankle  were  uncovered,  with  a 
small  blue  circle  of  inflammation  round  the  heel  of  the 
thorn,  a look  passed  among  the  dusky  figures  who  were 
around  me,  which  I interpreted  into  a kind  of  insulting 
pity  for  the  tender  skin  of  the  pale-face.  My  indigna- 
tion made  me  forget  the  pain. 

The  young  man  succeeded,  after  sundry  efforts,  in 
getting  hold  of  the  end  of  the  thorn  ; and  he  began  to 
pull  it  gently,  but  strongly,  from  its  bed.  Fortunately, 
it  was  very  large  and  tough,  and  did  not  break,  but,  as 
the  barb  met  with  much  resistance  as  he  drew  it  through 
the  inflamed  parts,  I thought  I had  never  felt  a more  acute 
pain  for  a moment  or  two  ; but  the  iron  visages  and  glar- 
ing eyes  .around  me  effectually  steeled  my  pride,  and, 
except  a heightened  flush  on  my  face,  I believe  I w§nt 
through  the  sharp,  though  trifling  operation,  with  as  much 
stoic  indifference  as  would  have  been  displayed  by  one 
of  themselves.  I believe  that  an  involuntary  exclama- 
tion, or  shrinking  of  the  body,  would  have  lowered  me 
much  in  their  estimation  ; as  it  was,  the  young  man 
showed  the  thorn,  with  the  blood  upon  it,  to  the  brave, 
who  said  “Ugh  !”  and  the  feast  proceeded.  I walked 
home,  like  a culprit,  of  old,  among  hot  ploughshares,  and 
put  away  mv  moccasins  in  mv  saddle-bags. 

The  folly  of  the  Indians  in  wasting  so  much  valuable 
time  was  to  me  almost  incomprehensible,  when  it  is  con- 
sidered that  their  whole  winter  supply  of  provisions  de- 
pends upon  the  summer  hunt,.  They  would  be  obliged 
to  return  to  their  village  in  three  or  four  weeks,  or  they 
would  lose  their  crop  of  maize  * but  their  thoughtless  im- 


24S 


INDIAN  EXTORTION. 


providence  is  proverbial.  Several  causes  of  anxiety  an- 
noyed me.  I had  lost  by  fatigue,  and  the  inclusions  of 
hostile  tribes,  four  of  my  original  stock  of  horses  ; neither 
was  the  remainder  in  a very  effective  condition.  My 
German  companion,  as  well  as  both  my  attendants  was 
most  anxious  to  return  to  the  civilized  world  ; and  I con- 
fess we  had  few  inducement  to  remain.  I therefore  ex- 
amined the  contents  of  my  packs,  in  order  to  see  whether 
I had  still  enough  to  purchase  two  or  three  horses. 
There  appeared  more  than  sufficient  to  buy  them  at  their 
usual  price,  namely,  one  pair  of  Mackinaw  blankets,  a 
piece  of  scarlet  cloth,  a few  ounces  of  rouge,  half  a pound 
of  tobacco,  some  beads  or  trinkets,  and  half  a dozen 
knives,  such  as  are  commonly  used  by  butchers. 

The  half-pawnee  interpreter  gave  me  no  assistance  ; 
but  he  seemed  to  be  upon  an  understanding  with  the 
savages,  that,  as  we  were  obliged  to  purchase  horses  at 
any  rate,  it  was  as  well  to  make  us  pay  handsomely  for 
them;  indeed,  no  Yorkshire  dealer,  nor  channel  pilot, 
nor  Yankee  pedler,  ever  outdid  the  iniquitous  enormity 
of  their  demands.  Nor  were  the  young  men  whom  we 
spoke  to,  in  reference  to  acting  as  our  guides  homeward, 
much  less  unreasonable  than  lhe  horse-dealers.  I agreed, 
however,  with  one  (a  younger  brother  of  Sa-nf-tsa-rish), 
and  an  active  lad  related  to  him.  The  bargain,  which 
was  the  best  that  I was  able  to  make,  was,  that  I agreed 
to  give  them,  on  arriving  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  the  value 
of  three  or  four  horses.  Nevertheless,  I was  not  so 
angry  at  this  extortion  as  at  the  other,  because  the  guides 
must  experience  much  fatigue  and  difficulty  in  taking 
us  over  so  extensive  a wilderness  ; besides  which,  they 
ran  no  little  risk  of  falling  in  with  stray  war  or  hunting- 
parties  of  Shiennes,  Sioux,  Ricaras,  or  other  hostile  In- 
dians, who  would  certainly  scalp  them , and  probably  us, 
also,  for  being  in  their  company. 

p.  The  avarice  and  extortion  here  complained  of  form  a 
strange  contrast  with  the  open  and  constant  hospitality 
of  Indians  in  regard  to  food  and  clothing;  but  of  all  the 
rogues  in  the  tribe,  those  most  pre-eminent  in  cheating 
and  hypocrisy  are  the  “ medical  faculty These  fel- 
lows are  of  a kindred  character  with  the  Augurs;  or  great 


MEDICAL  FACULTY. 


249 


medicine-men,  and  are,  in  fact,  a lower  branch  of  the 
same  department.  Any  ignorant  idler  who  takes  it  into 
his  head  to  become  a doctor,  gives  notice  of  it  to  the 
Pawnee  world  by  assuming  a solemn  deportment,  wear- 
ing his  robe  with  the  hair  outward,  and  learning  to  make 
a noise  in  his  throat,  which  is  distinctive  of  his  profes- 
sion, and  which  resembles  the  sound  made  by  a person 
who  is  gargling  for  a relaxed  uvula.  Here  his  medical 
studies  and  accomplishments  end  ; and  his  reputation  de- 
pends entirely  upon  the  result  of  his  first  attempts,  which 
must  evidently  be  altogether  fortuitous. 

In  great  cases,  such  as  a broken  leg  or  mortal  disease 
of  a chief,  the  medicine-men  are  called  in  to  assist  with 
their  mummery;  but  the  treatment  of  ordinary  diseases 
by  these  practitioners,  will  be  understood  by  my  noting 
down  accurately  what  took  place  at  the  daily  and  nightly 
visits  of  the  doctor  who  attended  our  chief’s  lodge.  The 
patient  was  one  of  the  children,  gradually  and  certainly 
dying,  from  shameful  maltreatment  under  the  hooping- 
cough.  It  should,  however,  be  remembered,  in  excul- 
pation of  the  Galen,  that  the  parents  fed  the  child  three 
or  four  times  a-day,  with  enormous  meals  of  half-boiled 
maize  or  buffalo  meat,  each  of  which  acting  as  an  eme- 
tic, enabled  the  wretched  little  sufferer  to  swallow  its 
successor. 

The  learned  doctor  stalked  into  the  lodge  with  all  the 
dignified  importance  of  the  most  practised  pulse-feeler, 
rarely  deigning  to  salute  the  parents  or  other  inhabitants. 
He  then  stooped  down  over  the  child  ; took  a little  earth 
in  his  hand,  which  he  moistened  with  saliva,  and,  with 
the  precious  mixture  thus  formed,  he  anointed  the 
shoulders,  the  forehead,  and  other  parts  of  the  child,  es- 
pecially the  pit  of  the  stomach  ; then  approaching  his 
mouth  to  this  last,  and  covering  with  his  robe  his  own 
head  and  the  person  of  his  patient,  he  commenced  the 
gargling  operation  to  which  1 have  before  alluded.  This 
I have  known  him  frequently  to  continue  for  three  or  four 
hours  at  a time,  wrhen  he  left  the  unfortunate  sufferer  as 
he  found  it,  without  having  used  friction  or  embrocation, 
or  administered  medicine  of  any  kind  whatever. 

It  only  remains  to  add,  respecting  the  disciples  of 


250 


STROLL  AFTER  NIGHTFALL. 


dEsculapius,  that  if  the  patient  recovers,  their  fame  is 
blazed  abroad,  and  they  receive  in  horses,  meat,  blan- 
kets, &c.,  a fee  much  higher  in  proportion  to  the  wealth 
of  any  of  the  parties,  than  was  ever  given  to  Sir  Asiley 
Cooper  or  Sir  Henry  Halford.  If  the  patient  dies,  the 
doctor  is  considered  “bad  medicine,”  and  generally  leaves 
the  profession  for  a year  or  two,  during  which  time,  he 
pursues  the  ordinary  avocations  of  stealing,  hunting,  or 
fighting,  until  his  ill-name  is  forgotten,  or  some  fortunate 
incident  has  obtained  for  him  a white-washed  reputation. 
Such  is  a sketch  of  the  Pawnee  faculty. 

As  I alluded  lately  to  the  hospitality  of  this,  as  of  other 
tribes,  I should  qualify  those  expressions  by  mentioning, 
that  although  I considered  my  life,  and  my  property,  even 
to  the  merest  trifles,  safe,  while  under  the  shelter  of  my 
old  chief’s  lodge,  I am  not  justifiable  in  making  the  same 
assertion  respecting  all  the  other  Indians  of  the  tribe  ; 
that  is,  I W'as  his  guest,  not  their  guest ; and  the  old  man 
himself  warned  me  and  my  companion  repeatedly,  that 
there  were  “ many  bad  men  about,”  and  that  we  should 
not,  on  any  account,  stray  from  the  encampment  after 
dusk.  Of  course,  we  did  not  neglect  this  caution  ; but, 
on  one  afternoon  wTe  ran  some  risk  of  paying  a severe 
penalty  for  having  forgotten  it. 

We  had  been  to  a feast,  given  by  a chief  whose  lodge 
was  near  the  boundary  of  the  camp  ; and,  after  taking 
our  leave,  were  tempted,  by  the  extreme  beauty  of  the 
evening,  to  take  a short  ramble  and  enjoy  the  cool  fresh- 
ness of  the  twilight.  We  wandered  on,  and  became  so 
much  interested  in  talking  over  home  (as  we  then  styled 
Fort  Leavenworth),  and  our  plan  for  reaching  it,  that 
we  were  unconscious  of  the  distance  we  had  walked, 
until  a pause  in  the  conversation,  and  the  deepening 
shades  warned  us  of  our  imprudence.  I turned  round 
and  saw  an  Indian  following  us,  with  a bow  in  his  hand 
and  a quiver  full  of  arrows  at  his  back.  I looked  at  my 
own  belt  and  that  of  my  companion,  and  became  con- 
vinced  of  the  unpleasant  truth  that  we  were  both  entirely 
unarmed.  I asked  him  if  he  had  not  even  a pocket-pis- 


tol or  knife.  Knives  we  had,  but  gun  or  pistol  none 
It  w'as  the  first  time  that  I had  laid  aside  my  fire-arms, 


SURLY  INDIAN. 


251 


and  the  first  time  that  either  of  us  had  disregarded  the 
old  chief’s  warning.  There  was  something  most  galling, 
and  I might  almost  add,  fearful,  in  the  idea  of  the  possi- 
biliiy  of  our  being  shot  down  there,  like  two  deer,  without 
the  chance  of  a struggle  for  our  lives,  and  where  none 
but  the  savage,  at  whose  mercy  we  were,  could  ever 
learn  the  manner  or  place  of  our  death.  Such  thoughts 
pass  through  the  mind  with  a rapidity  unknown  to  the 
pen.  But  we  had  no  time  to  deliberate  : hesitation,  when 
dealing  with  Indians,  is  certain  destruction  : indeed, 
among  white  men  it  is  often  little  better. 

We  agreed  to  turn  instantly,  and  walk  quickly  up  to 
him,  with  the  farther  arrangement,  that  if  we  saw  him 
draw  out  an  arrow  to  fit  it  to  his  bow,  we  would  both  run 
upon  him  at  once,  and,  as  he  could  shoot  but  one,  the 
other  might  use  his  knife  as  he  best  might.  We  put  this 
plan  in  execution,  and  he  was  evidently  taken  by  surprise. 
He  was  an  Indian  whose  face  I did  not  remember  to 
have  seen  before  ; and  a more  malignant  scowling  visage 
I never  beheld. 

In  an  inslant  we  were  at  his  side  ; and  I gave  him  the 
salination  of  the  evening  with  as  little  distrust  and  as 
much  confidence  in  his  intentions  as  I could  assume.  I 
got  nothing  but  a short  growl  for  an  answer.  He  ap- 
peared desirous  ihat  we  should  prosecute  our  walk,  and 

let  him  remain  again  behind  : but  I told  V to  keep 

him  now  that  we  had  got  him,  and  not  to  lei  him  leave 
us  on  any  pretence,  as,  at  these  close  quarters,  where  his 
bow  was  unserviceable,  either  of  us  was  a match  for  him 
in  strength.  1 could  get.  no  words  from  him  ; his  eye 
was  troubled,  and  his  whole  look  villainous. 

I told  him  carelessly,  that  “ it  was  late,  and  it  was 
good  logo  back  to  our  chiefs  and,  half  locking  my  arm 
in  his,  we  returned  toward  the  camp.  When  we  had 
reached  a point  whence  we  could  see  the  fires,  and  from 
which  the  noise  of  a struggle  would  reach  the  outposts, 
we  felt  comparatively  secure.  Immediately  before  us 
were  some  very  small  mounds,  or  hillocks  ; and,  as  we 
approached  them,  our  Indian  broke  from  us,  and,  running 
forward,  spoke  in  a hurried  accent  to  two  or  three  of  his 
red  brethren,  who  lay  concealed,  and  when  on  the  ground, 


252 


NARROW  ESCAPE. 


were  scarcely  distinguishable.  His  communication  to  them 
was  doubtless  to  the  effect  that  the  plan  had  failed  ; for, 
on  receiving  it,  they  stole  off  in  various  directions. 

It  was  now  preity  evident  that  this  party  of  rogues 
had  watched  us  when  we  began  our  walk,  and  had  de- 
spatched one  of  their  number  to  follow7  us  stealthily. 
When  we  had  wandered  sufficiently  far  to  prevent  any 
chance  of  discovery  from  the  noise  of  a struggle  reach- 
ing the  camp,  he  would  have  returned,  brought  them 
with  him,  and  have  shot  us,  in  order  to  get  possession  of 
our  clothes,  knives,  and  such  weapons  as  they  might 
suppose  us  to  have.  I moi/  do  them  wrong  ; but  this  is 
my  firm  conviction  as  regards  their  intentions  towards 
us.  If  we  had  there  lost  our  lives  through  our  folly  in 
neglecting  warnings,  and  going  moreover  unarmed,  it 
must  be  confessed  we  should  have  deserved  our  fate.  I 
was  glad  to  sit  down  again  in  old  Sa-ni-tsa-rish’s  lodge, 
and  of  course  said  nothing  to  him  of  the  incident.  We 
had  no  proof  whereon  to  ground  an  accusation,  and  I 
always  avoided  even  the  slightest  appearance  of  distrust. 

On  the  2d  of  August  we  broke  up  our  encampment 
at  daylight,  and  moved  on  about  twelve  miles  south; 
halted,  and  pitched  our  tents  by  the  side  of  a small 
muddy  streamlet,  which  we  were  glad  to  find  not  quite 
dry.  Indeed,  if  one  wished  for  an  illustration  of  the 
delusive  nature  of  many  of  our  fondest  hopes  and  ex- 
pectations in  life,  I scarcely  know7  wheie  to  find  one  more 
apt  and  appropriate  than  the  constant  disappointment  to 
which  the  traveller  is  liable  in  this  western  wilderness. 
He  pursues  his  weary  way  under  a burning  sun,  until 
half  exhausted  by  heat  and  fatigue,  he  sees  in  the  dis- 
tance a curved  green  line  of  poplar  or  small  cotton-wood 
trees,  by  which  the  course  of  a stream  or  creek  is  always 
indicated.  Cheered  and  refreshed  by  the  view,  he  spurs 
on  his  jaded  horse,  and  arrives,  at  length,  at  the  wished- 
for  point,  where  he  sees  to  his  dismay,  the  hot  sun- 
beams reflected  from  white  stones  and  dry  sand — which 
form,  indeed,  in  spring  or  winter,  the  bed  of  a river; 
but  where  he  might  now  search  in  vain  for  a drop  of 
water  to  ccol  his  parched  tongue  ! That  drop  is  a luxu- 
ry which  he  must  again  search  for,  and  which  may  cost 


HAITANS. 


253 


him  another  hour  or  two  of  weary  travel ; and  fortunate 
is  he  if  it  does  not  cost  him  haff  a day. 

To  proceed.  At  mid-day  we  went  to  hunt  buffalo. 
There  were  marks  and  indications  of  large  herds ; but 
the  beasts  had  been  frightened  away  by  a war-party  of 
Haiians,  who  had  been  here  only  the  night  before. 
These  Indians  were  not  at  war  with  the  village  in  which 
I was  living,  but  with  the  Pawnee  Loups,  who  stole 
some  horses  from  them  last  year,  and  the  principal  band 
of  whom  were  now  hunting  to  the  northward  of  us.  The 
Haitans  seem  to  be  a small  wandering  tribe,  who  gene- 
rally roam  between  the  countries  inhabited  on  the  north 
by  the  Pawnees,  and  on  the  south  by  the  Camanches  ; 
and  their  principal  employment  seems  to  consist  in  steal- 
ing horses  from  the  Mexican  and  other  traders,  and  sell- 
ing them  to  their  more  powerful  neighbours. 

I learned  distinctly  from  the  Pawnees,  that  many  of 
their  horses  had  come  from  the  Haitans  ; and  as  cer- 
tainly that  a great  proportion  of  the  guns  and  other  arti- 
cles annually  distributed  (as  before  stated)  among  tiie 
Pawnees,  find  their  way  to  this  rambling  tribe,  in  pay- 
ment for  their  horses.  At  this  time  Sa-ni-tsa-rish’s  eldest 
son  was  upon  a trading  expedition  with  them,  as  I have 
before  mentioned,  and  his  return  with  a few  horses  was 
daily  expected.  The  old  chief  seemed  to  await  his  ar- 
rival with  the  greatest  anxiety. 

I could  not  start  so  early  in  the  chase  this  day  as 
some  of  my  red  brother  hunters ; so  the  cows  and  the 
advanced  guard  of  the  herd  were  many  miles  a-head  be- 
fore I came  on  the  field  of  action.  I was  now  sensible 
of  the  vital  importance  of  sparing  my  horses  as  much 
as  possible,  that  l contented  myself  with  assisting  in  the 
slaughter  of  a few  scattered  fugitives.  I was  moreover, 
ravenously  hungry  and  almost  faint  for  want  of  food,  for 
it  was  now  about  four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon.  I had 
eaten  nothing  since  noon  of  the  preceding  day,  and  had 
been  since  dawn  in  the  saddle,  under  a most  oppressive 
sun.  I came  to  a spot  where  a young  bull  had  been 
slightly  wounded  by  two  or  three  arrows,  the  owners  of 
which  were  now  walking  round  and  round  him,  at  a re- 
spectful distance,  as  he  had  turned  to  bay,  and  con- 

Vol.  I.— Y 


254 


A BUFFALO  SHOT. 


fronted  his  nearest  antagonists  with  a most  determined  air. 
An  Indian  does  not  often  shoot  at  a buffalo  whose  head  is 
toward  him,  knowing  the  impenetrable  nature  of  his  fore- 
head, and  of  the  shaggy  mantle  of  hair  which  protects 
the  fore  part  of  his  body  : beside  which,  these  men  and 
their  horses,  were  wearied  by  the  long  gallop  which  the 
pursuit  had  given  us.  As  I approached,  they  asked  if 
“ the  white  chief  would  kill  the  buffalo  with  his  great 
gun?”  I gave  my  assent,  and,  going  up  within  sixty 
yards,  wounded  him  with  my  first,  and  killed  him  with 
my  second  ball. 

I reloaded  my  rifle,  while  the  Indians  cut  him  up  with 
a speed  which  appeared  to  me,  even  among  them,  unex- 
ampled ; indeed,  they  were  nearly  famished  ; and  as 
they  squatted  on  their  hams  round  the  huge  animal, 
and  devoured  large  slices  which  they  cut  of  yet  warm,  a 
civilized  man  might  have  doubted  whether  they  wrere 
wolves  or  human  beings.  But  I was  no  longer  a civi- 
lized man — hunger  had  triumphed  over  the  last  traces  of 
civilization — I received  with  thankfulness,  and  ate  with 
eagerness,  a good  piece  of  the  warm  liver,  untouched  by 
fire,  water,  or  salt,  and  I found  it  as  agreeable  to  the 
palate,  and  as  tender  as  an)  morsel  I ever  tasted.  It 
must  sound  horrible  to  others,  as  it  did  to  me  a few 
weeks  ago,  but  let  none  condemn  me  till  he  has  been  in 
a similar  situation. 

Here  a little  incident  occurred,  which  was  probably 
of  great  use  to  me  in  raising  to  a height  altogether  un- 
deserved, the  Indians’  opinions  of  my  powers,  as  a 
marksman  ; and  I feel  assured,  that  none  of  the  party 
who  saw  it,  nor  any  of  those  to  whom  they  may  have 
related  it,  would  eve’r  approach  me  openly  with  hostile 
intent.  While  we  were  enjoying  our  Sybarite  meal  of 
raw  meat,  an  Indian  next  to  me  uttered  the  usual  Ugh , 
(by  which  they  express  the  presentation  of  any  new  ob- 
ject to  their  eyes,)  and  pointed  to  an  antelope  which  was 
galloping  along  the  side  of  a small  rising  ground  oppo- 
site to  us,  at  a distance  much  beyond  the  ordinary  rifle- 
range  for  so  small  an  object;  the  other  Indians  also 
looked  at  it,  and  I caught  up  my  rifle  which  lay  at  my 
side  ; they  all  shook  their  heads  and  said,  it  was  “ no 
use  ; it  was  too  far  for  the  white  chief’s  gun.” 


THE  BOW  AND  ARROW. 


255 


I know  not  what  strange  presentiment  inspired  me 
with  confidence,  but  I told  them  quietly  it  was  quite 
easy — I would  shoot.”  I stepped  out,  and  put  up  the 
highest  sight  of  my  rifle,  so  as  to  give  my  ball  sufficient 
elevation,  and  taking  an  aim  rather  hasty  than  careful,  I 
pulled  the  trigger.  Much  more  to  my  own  astonishment 
than  theirs,  my  ball  went  through  both  the  hind-quarters 
of  the  antelope.  Shouts  of  admiration  and  surprise  were 
raised  by  the  savages,  who  ran  to  secure  the  little  prize; 
but  I pretended  that  it  wras  a mere  matter  of  course, 
said  nothing,  laid  down  my  rifle,  and  continued  my  meal. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  chance  shots  that 
I ever  made,  (as  I do  not  pretend  to  any  great  skill  with 
the  rifle  ;)  l measured  the  distance  by  stepping  it  soon  af- 
terward, and  made  it  two  hundred  and  ten  yards  ; which 
is  certainly  a long  shot,  when  it  is  considered  that  the 
animal  is  not  much  larger  than  a greyhound,  and  was 
running  at  speed. 

I w7as  much  amused  for  the  next  hour,  by  seeing  the " 
sly  glances  which  the  Indians  stole  from  time  to  time  at 
me  and  my  short  rifle ; then  they  would  look  at  each 
other  with  an  expression  which  seemed  to  say,  “ we  had 
belter  keep  clear  of  that  man  and  his  gun  1”  While  we 
were  discussing  this  uncouth  meal,  some  of  the  hunters, 
who  had  obtained  the  best  start,  and  who  were  well- 
mounted,  came  up  with  the  large  herd,  and  killed  about 
two  hundred.  And  here  I may  remark,  that  the  bow 
and  arrow  is  beyond  all  question  the  most  effective 
weapon  for  killing  buffalo  ; it  would  be  so  even  in  the 
hands  of  an  indifferent  archer,  because  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  have  a well-trained  horse,  who  is  sufficiently 
fleet  to  overtake  the  game,  but  who  will  not  pass  them, 
so  as  to  incur  the  danger  of  their  formidable  horns  ; the 
hunter  may  then  gallop  up  behind  them,  keeping  always 
on  their  right  flank,  so  as  to  have  the  free  use  of  his 
bow,  and  when  within  five  or  six  yards,  shoot  one  or 
two  arrows  into  the  loins  in  the  oblique  direction,  which 
the  relative  position  of  the  parties  renders  easy  and 
almost  unavoidable.  Even,  if,  as  I before  said,  the 
archer  be  an  indifferent  one,  and  the  arrows  only  enter 
four  or  five  inches  into  the  flank,  every  motion  that  the 


256 


VALUE  OF  THE  BUFFALO 


poor  animal  makes  brings  some  new  portion  of  his 
wounded  interior  in  contact  with  the  sharp  arrow-head, 
and  he  soon  seeks  relief  in  standing  still,  when  he  is 
either  left  to  a slow  and  lingering  death,  or  becomes  an 
easier  mark  for  a deliberate  aim.  But  with  the  Paw- 
nees, at  least  among  the  braves  and  warriors,  it  is  very 
rare  that  only  a few  inches  of  the  arrow  enter;  on  the 
contrary,  unless  it  strike  full  upon  a rib-bone,  it  generally 
penetrates  two-thirds  of  its  length,  and  is  often  buried 
up  to  the  feathers  ; indeed,  I have  seen  the  greater  part 
ol  the  feathers  buried  also,  and  have  been  assured  by 
many,  both  Indians  and  white  traders,  that  they  have 
frequently  known  an  arrow  to  be  sent  clean  through  a 
buffalo,  and  to  stick  into  the  ground  ; this  last  I never  saw, 
but  I can  believe  it.  In  shooting  these  animals  with 
ball  the  risk  is  much  greater,  for  when  wounded  they 
feel  less  pain  in  motion  than  in  remaining  still ; and, 
therefore,  they  gallop  either  away  from,  or  in  pursuit  of, 
the  hunter,  until  they  receive  the  mortal  shot. 

I cannot  convey  any  just  impression  of  the  total 
dependence  of  the  remote  western  tribes  on  buffalo,  for 
their  very  existence,  without  giving  a sketch  of  the  vari- 
ous purposes  for  which  that  animal  is,  by  their  ingenuity, 
rendered  available.  First,  its  flesh  is  their  principal, 
sometimes  their  only,  food  ; eaten  fresh  on  the  prairies 
during  their  hunt,  and  dried,  in  their  winter  villages* 
Secondly,  the  skin  is  put  to  various  uses  ; it  forms  the 
material  of  their  lodges,  of  their  bales  for  packing  the 
meat,  of  their  bed  by  ni^ht,  and  their  clothing  by  day  ; 
the  coarser  parts  they  make  into  saddles,  or  cut  into  lar- 
yettes  or  halters;  and  more  than  all,  it  is  now  their  chief 
article  of  trade  with  the  whites,  and  thus  is  the  source 
whence  they  must  derive  blankets,  knives,  beads,  and 
every  other  produce  of  civilization.  Thirdly,  they  use 
the  sinews  as  strings  to  their  bows,  and  the  smaller 
fibres  instead  of  twine  or  thread  ; the  brains  serve  to 
soften  and  dress  the  skins,  while  (as  is  elsewhere  noted 
in  this  journal)  the  hoof,  at.  the  end  of  the  shank-bone,  is 
made  to  answer  the  purpose  of  a mallet.  Fourthly,  the 
bones  are  not  less  useful ; some  of  them  being  service- 


TO  THE  WESTERN  TRIBES. 


257 


able  as  scrapers , or  coarse  chisels  * others  are  pointed, 
and  used  with  the  finer  fibres  as  needle  and  thread  ; and 
the  ribs,  strengthened  by  some  of  the  stronger  fibres, 
are  made  to  furnish  the  bow  with  which  other  buffalo 
are  to  be  destroyed;  this  last  is  the  triumph  of  Indian 
ingenuity.  The  first  bow  that  I saw  constructed  in  this 
manner  caused  so  much  surprise  and  admiration,  that  I 
offered  nearly  the  value  of  a horse  for  it,  but  was  re- 
fused.! When  I add  to  the  foregoing  particulars,  that  on 
the  barren  prairies  the  Indians  frequently  depend  upon 
the  buffalo  for  their  fuel,  and  on  its  bladder  for  the  means 
of  carrying  water,  it  will  not  be  denied  that  the  animal 
is  essential  to  their  existence  ; and  where  the  buffalo  is 
exterminated,  the  Indians  of  the  prairies  must  perish. 

On  this  same  afternoon,  a trifling  accident  went  very 
near  to  mar  my  sports  for  the  future,  besides  abridging 
my  means  of  personal  defence.  I was  riding  at  full 
speed,  down  a steep  hill,  after  a fat  young  bull,  that  was 
only  one  hundred  yards  a-head,  and  as  my  horse  was 
both  awkward  and  weary,  I had  slung  my  rifle  by  a 
leathern  belt  across  my  shoulders,  in  order  to  have  both 
my  hands  at  liberty  to  guide  and  support  him.  In  spite 
of  these  precautions,  he  put  one  of  his  fore-feet  into  a 
hole  and  fell  head  over  heels.  I rolled  some  yards  far- 
ther than  the  horse,  and  was  not  sorry  on  getting  up  to 
find  that,  with  the  exception  of  a few  slight  bruises,  my 

* The  classical  reader  will  be  interested  in  being  reminded  of  the 
singular  resemblance  which  the  details  of  Indian  customs  bear  to  those 
of  the  Scythians,  as  described  by  Herodotus,  who  notices  the  “ scraping 
the  flesh  from  the  skin  of  the  ox  with  an  instrument  formed  from  his 
rib;"  and  also  the  method  of  “scalping  their  enemies,  and  wearing 
the  scalp-locks  attached  to  their  dress  or  horses’  bits,  he  that  possessed 
the  most  being  esteemed  the  bravest  warrior every  word  of  which 
description  is  strictly  applicable  to  the  Missouri  Indians.  See  “ Herod. 
Melpomene,”  cap.  61  — 64. 

i I am  not  aware  that  ancient  history  affords  any  instance  of  the 
construction  of  a bow  from  the  ribs  of  an  animal,  but  the  horns  were 
sometimes  applied  to  that  purpose.  The  classical  reader  is  referred  to 
Virg.  Eclog.  x.  v.  ; ^Eneid.  xi.  v.  773  ; Ovid’s  Met.  v.  383  ; Horn.  Iliad, 
6.  v.  105  ; and  Lycoph.  Cassandra,  v.  564.  The  habit  of  strengthen- 
ing wooden  bows  with  the  fibres  of  animals  has  been  observed  among 
the  Esquimaux.  See  “ Ellis’s  Voyage  to  Hudson’s  Bay,”  p.  138.  At 
a later  period  of  my  stay  in  the  western  country  I procured  a bow 
similar  to  the  one  described  in  the  text,  which  is  still  in  my  possession. 

Y* 


258 


AN  ACCIDENT. 


limbs  were  all  entire ; but  my  rifle  had  disappeared,  and 
I was  almost  afraid  to  look  for  it,  knowing  the  extreme 
probability  of  my  finding  it  broken  in  half,  or  otherwise 
irreparably  damaged.  However,  I found  it  lying  on  the 
ground  not  far  from  me;  the  only  injury  it  had  sustained 
was  the  loss  of  the  screws  and  rivets  which  had  held  the 
sling-belt,  and  which  had  been  broken  off  by  the  shock 
of  my  fall.  Altogether  I came  off  much  better  than  I 
expected,  and  returned  at  a sober  pace  to  the  encamp- 
ment, neither  I nor  my  steed  being  in  good  plight  for  any 
more  hunting  on  that  evening. 

After  supping  heartily  on  buffalo  meat,  ( roasted  not 
raw,)  I trimmed  my  pencil,  and  wrote  the  foregoing 
half-dozen  pages  of  journal,  putting  to  myself  the  query, 
“When  I get  back  to  Fort  Leavenworth  (if  I ever  do 
get  back  there),  will  they  be  legible,  after  the  rubbing, 
wetting,  and  other  annoyances,  to  which  they  are  con- 
stantly liable  ?” 

On  the  3d  of  August  I strolled  out  with  my  rifle  to 
examine  one  of  the  most  extraordinary  objects*  of  cu- 
riosity which  I had  seen  in  the  western  prairies,  and  which 
was  only  two  miles  from  our  camp.  I regret  on  this,  as 
on  many  other  occasions,  that  mv  ignorance  of  geology 
and  mineralogy  renders  me  unable  to  give  a satisfactory 
description  of  this  spot.  From  the  centre  of  the  plain 
there  rises  an  abrupt  and  precipitous  range  of  what  ap- 
pears at  first  sight  to  be  rock,  but  which,  on  nearer 
examination,  proves  to  be  a soft  crumbling  argillaceous 
substance,  intersected  by  strata  of  lime  and  shells.  Along 
the  base  of  these  heights  are  scattered  a vast  profusion 
of  stones,  much  darker  in  colour  than  the  hill  from  which 
they  have  evidently  fallen.  They  are  of  all  forms  and 
sizes,  some  as  large  as  a thirty-twro  pound  shot,  and  others 
no  larger  than  a child’s  marble  ; they  are  generally  round 
or  oval,  but  I observed  many  irregular  shapes  among 
them.  They  seemed  to  me  as  if  the  principal  ingredient 
in  their  composition  w>as  iron,  and  their  surface  is  entirely 
covered  by  small,  pointed,  and  regular  projections,  like 
the  crystallizations  in  Derby  and  other  spar  specimens. 
I determined  to  carry  home  (if  permitted  to  carry  any - 


EXTRAORDINARY  SPOT. 


259 


thins:  home)  a few  of  the  more  moderate  sized,  and  to 
submit  them  to  the  examination  of  some  geologist.* 

The  heights  themselves  bear  every  evidence  of  hav- 
ing projected  much  farther  than  they  now  do  into  the 
plain  ; and  the  soft  friable  substance  of  which  they  are 
composed,  renders  them  liable  to  be  acted  upon  by  the 
elements,  especially  water  or  melting  snow.  Indeed 
they  wear  away  so  fast,  that  the  Indians  assured  me  they 
vary  in  form,  and  in  fact  recede  in  some  places  several 
feet  in  the  course  of  every  four  or  five  years ; conse- 
quently there  remain,  standing  in  front  of  them,  huge 
masses  of  the  same  formation  as  the  cliffs  themselves, 
which  look  like  the  gigantic  columns  of  some  mighty 
though  ruined  portico.  They  are  of  various  dimensions 
in  diameter,  but  generally  sixty  or  seventy  feet  in  height ; 
the  Indians  told  me  that  a few  years  ago  they  were  much 
higher,  and  were  crowned  with  buffalo  horns,  dedicated 
to  the  Great  Spirit.* 

Among  these  huge  broken  pillars  and  in  the  crevices 
of  the  main  cliff,  the  “ temple-loving  martlet” 

“ Hath  made  his  pendent  bed  and  procreant  cradle,” 

and  plays  around  them,  amid  a swarm  of  twittering  and 
wheeling  companions,  as  numerous  as  those  which  I 
have  seen  on  a summer  evening  on  the  banks  of  the 
Thames.  But  even  here  the  winged  emigrant  is  beset 
by  dangers,  almost  as  fatal  as  those  which  threaten  him 
in  those  crowded  haunts  where  the  mischievous  school- 
boy practises  on  him  his  maiden  fowling-piece  ; for  I 
found  a regiment  of  Indian  boys  climbing  like  monkeys 
among  the  recesses  of  the  precipice  for  nests  and  eggs  ; 
while  oihers  let  fly  their  bird-bolt  at  any  unfortunate  mar- 
tin who  ventured  to  alight  or  rest  near  his  assaulted 
home.  This  picturesque  and  jagged  outline  of  hills  only 

* Some  of  them  are  round  and  smooth  as  grape  shot,  and  the  specific 
gravity  of  all  indicates  the  quantity  of  iron  which  they  contain.  The 
fatigues  and  accidents  of  my  return-journey  prevented  my  carrying 
any  of  these  specimens  back  to  the  United  States. 

* Similar  offerings  to  the  Great  Spirit,  or  to  the  Medicine,  are  occa- 
sionally met  with  in  various  parts  of  the  region  between  the  United 
States’  frontier  and  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


260 


MY  LIBRARY. 


requires  the  background  of  a dark  lurid  cloud  ; and,  if 
viewed  from  a distance,  it  will  need  but  little  stretch  of 
the  imagination  to  conceive  it  to  be  a magnificent  castle, 
fit  for  the  residence  of  the  proudest  monarch  on  earth. 

When  I returned  to  camp,  and  found  all  the  squaws 
busy  in  cutting  up  and  spreading  the  meat  to  dry,  I sat 
down  in  the  lodge,  and  whiled  away  an  hour  in  reading. 
This  occupation,  whenever  I found  time  to  indulge  in  it, 
was  evidently  considered  by  the  Indians  my  “ great 
medicine  for  they  saw  how  completely  it  absorbed  my 
attention  for  the  time.  Frequently  my  brother,  the  son 
of  iSa-nf-tsa-rish,  would  come  and  look  over  my  shoul- 
der, and  glance  his  eyes  from  my  face  to  the  book,  with 
a mingled  expression  of  curiosity  and  surprise.  I tried 
to  explain  to  him  that  it  “ talked  to  me,  and  told  me  of  many 
things  past,  and  many  far  away.”  Then  he  would  take 
it  up,  and  turn  it  round  and  round,  looking  steadfastly  at 
the  page ; but  he  said  he  could  hear  nothing  and  see  no- 
thing. I explained  to  lum  that,  my  pocket  Bible  was  in- 
deed my  “great  medicine,”  for  it  was  the  “talk  of  the 
Great  Spirit.”  To  this  he  would  listen  with  much  gravi- 
ty ; but,  alas  ! I could  not  pursue  the  subject,  for  when- 
ever I attempted  to  get  beyond  objects  presented  to  the 
senses,  my  stock  both  of  language  and  signs  was  ex- 
hausted. My  library,  on  this  excursion,  was  very  rich  : 
it  consisted  of  four  volumes,  all  of  pocket  size — the 
Bible,  Sophocles,  the  first  half  of  the  Odyssey,  and  Mil- 
ton. 

August  4th. — While  the  men  were  employed  in 
mending,  new-heading,  and  feathering  their  arrow’s,  and 
others  had  been  sent  out  to  observe  the  motions  of  the 
buffalo,  the  women  continued  their  labours  in  preparing 
the  skins  and  meat  for  packing.  I again  strolled  out 
with  my  rifle,  alone,  to  the  abrupt  banks  aboveinention- 
ed,  in  order  that  I might  indulge  freely  in  the  sweet 
thoughts  of  home  which  this  day  suggested — this  day 
which  gave  birth  to  one  of  the  most  exemplary  parents 
that  ever  lived,  and  w'hich  also  consummated  a union,  the 
W’hole  course  of  which  has  been  marked  by  peace,  mu- 
tual confidence,  and  inviolate  affection. 

Wrapped  in  these  musings,  I rambled  a mile  or  twro 


HERD  OF  BUFFALO. 


l 


261 


beyond  the  cliffs,  and  found  myself  in  the  strangest 
formation  of  ground  which  I had  yet  seen : it  was  a con- 
tinuation of  waves,  like  the  Atlantic  when  angry.  These 
ravines  are  from  thirty  to  fifty  feet  deep,  and  the  same 
in  width,  and  they  display  the  same  kind  of  gritty  friable 
substratum  as  the  cliffs.  They  are  evidently  water- 
courses after  heavy  rains  or  the  melting  of  snow,  and  pro- 
bably change  yearly  their  breadth,  depth,  and  relative  po- 
sition. Riding,  or  even  walking  fast,  over  this  portion  of 
country,  would  be  impossible. 

While  examining  this  remarkable  scene,  I observed  a 
small  herd  of  eight  or  ten  buffalo,  who  had  retired  from 
the  chase  of  yesterday  to  conceal  themselves  in  this 
natural  fastness.  Seeing  through  my  telescope  that 
there  was  no  cow  among  them,  1 did  not  want  to  kill  ; 
but  was  curious  to  see  how  they  could  get  out  of  the 
dilemma  in  which  they  had  placed  themselves.  Accord- 
ingly, I crept  towards  them,  and,  appearing  suddenly 
and  not  far  off,  gave  a shout,  and  pretended  to  run  on 
them.  They  started  at  full  speed  ; and  reckless  of  the 
broken  ravines  and  ridges,  they  tumbled,  rolled,  and 
scrambled  along,  with  an  activity  of  which  I did  not  be- 
lieve them  capable,  snorting  and  raising  clouds  of  dust 
that  marked  to  a great  distance  their  headlong  course. 
After  watching  them  till  they  were  out  of  sight,  I return- 
ed to  the  encampment,  which  I reached  early  in  the  after- 
noon. 


262 


CAMP  MOVED. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Camp  moved. — Medicine  Council. — Preparation  for  Hunting. — Mar- 
tial Appearance  of  the  Chief — his  Costume. — The  Author's  Hunt- 
ing-Dress.— Conversation  with  the  Chief — Equipment  of  the  War- 
riors.— Forced  March. — Attack  the  Herds. — Dangerous  Conflict. — 
Sorry  Steed. — Unhorsed  Indian — A young  Bull  shot. — A Hunter’s 
Meal. — Suspicious  Intruders. — Perplexing  Situation. — A Friend  in 
Need. — Return  to  the  Camp. 

August  5. — Moved  our  camp  before  four  in  the 
morning,  and  without  breakfast ; an  arrangement  pecu- 
liarly unpleasant  to  me,  inasmuch  as  I had  gone  dinner- 
less and  supperless  to  bed  on  the  preceding  evening.  We 
rode  eight  or  nine  miles,  and  then  received  intelligence 
from  the  scouts  that  there  were  several  large  herds  in 
the  neighbourhood.  The  chiefs  accordingly  ordered  a 
halt  of  the  tents,  women,  children,  and  baggage  ; and 
having  held  a great  medicine  council,  at  which  I attend- 
ed, and  at  which  it  was  formally  announced  that  the 
Great  Spirit  was  favourable,  it  was  determined  that  there 
was  to  be  a grand  chnsse.  Accordingly,  the  chiefs,  war- 
riors, and  braves  sallied  forth,  accompanied  by  what  we 
should  call,  in  the  highlands,  gillies;  that  is,  younger  and 
inferior  Indians,  who  lead  a spare  horse,  and  either  give 
it  to  their  lord  when  his  own  is  tired,  or  cut  up  and  car- 
ry home  the  victims  of  his  bow  and  arrow. 

This  was  the  most  magnificent  preparation  for  hunting 
that  I had  yet  seen.  We  marched  in  three  parallel  lines; 
the  chief  of  the  Grand  Pawnees  occupying  the  front  of 
the  centre,  from  whence  he  issued,  from  time  to  lime, 
the  requisite  orders.  He  was  surrounded  by  a select 
body  of  the  principal  warriors  and  medicine-men.  With 
the  latter  he  pretended  to  consult  frequently;  and  the 
whole  line  was  halted  until  their  consultation  was  ended, 
when  it  was  immediately  communicated  from  front  to 
rear  by  running  criers,  who  shouted  in  the  true  loud  na- 
sal tone  of  a village  bellman.  Not  a man  was  allowed 


MARTIAL  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  CHIEF. 


263 


lo  leave  the  ranks ; and  the  discipline  seemed  as  strict 
as  among  regular  troops  on  a march.  Soon  the  group 
surrounding  the  great  chief  advanced  a little  in  front  of 
the  main  body,  and  I attached  myself  to  it  for  two  rea- 
sons ; first,  I wished  to  see,  and,  if  possible,  to  under- 
stand, the  arrangements  made  for  the  chase ; and,  se- 
condly, I was  anxious  to  ride  by  the  great  chief,  and  to 
endeavour,  by  making  him  such  civil  speeches  as  my 
limited  knowledge  of  his  language,  assisted  by  signs, 
would  permit,  to  do  away  the  grudge  which  this  mali- 
cious, treacherous,  and  vindictive  man  seemed  to  bear 
me. 

When  I approached,  he  separated  himself  from  his  re- 
tinue, whom  he  did  not  wish  to  have  within  earshot  of 
our  conversation,  and  rode  slowly  toward  me.  I could 
not  help  being  struck  by  his  grotesque,  yet  martial  ap- 
pearance, which  I will  endeavour  lo  describe.  He  was 
mounted  on  a light  dun  or  cream-coloured  sleed,  whose 
long  mane  and  frontlock,  wild  fiery  eye,  and  light  active 
form,  showed  it  to  be  a child  of  the  Western  wilderness. 
Seated  in  a Mexican  peak-saddle,  covered  with  a wolf- 
skin, he  seemed  a part  of  the  animal  which  he  bestrode  ; 
so  naturally  and  firmly  were  the  muscular  thighs,  which 
his  singular  dress  allowed  to  be  visible,  attached  to  the 
horse’s  side. 

On  his  head  he  wore  a kind  of  turban,  made  from  a 
red-silk  shawl,  from  beneath  which  his  small,  sly,  rest- 
less eyes  peered  with  a keen  malicious  expression  ; but 
the  most  remarkable  feature  in  his  unprepossessing  coun- 
tenance was  the  mouth  which,  without  being  large  or  un- 
derjawed, was  strongly  indicative  of  many  of  the  most 
prevalent  and  dangerous  vices  of  the  Indian  character. 
No  man  of  ordinary  penetration  could  look  at  him  without 
seeing  sensuality,  falsehood,  and  the  more  dark  and  re- 
vengeful passions,  stamped  legibly  on  his  countenance.* 
On  his  legs  he  wore  the  usual  deer-skin  leggins,  and  on 

* This  chief  s character,  which  I here  drew,  partly  from  slight  observa- 
tion, partly  from  the  information  of  others,  proved  afterward  to  answer  ex- 
actly to  my  description.  His  son,  Pae-tae-lae-cha’rd,  with  whom  my 

companion  V lodged,  was  an  exact  counterpart  and  copy  of  him, 

except  that,  in  personal  proportions  and  strength,  he  had  greatly  the 
advantage  over  his  father. 


§64  MARtlAL  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  CHIEF. 

his  feet  braided  moccasins,  over  which  were  buckled  a 
pair  of  huge  old-fashioned  Spanish  gilt  spurs.  In  one 
hand  he  carried  a light  single-barrelled  fowling-piece. 
His  girdle,  which  was  another  red-silk  shawl,  supported 
a long  hunting-knife.  In  his  left  hand  he  held  the  reins 
of  a heavy  and  highly  ornamented  Spanish  bridle,  with  a 
curved  bit,  long  enough  to  break  the  jaw  of  any  horse 
that  should  venture  to  pull  against  it,  and  which,  from 
the  gilt  stars,  chains,  and  buckles  which  adorned  it, 
seemed  to  have  belonged  to  the  same  cavallero  of  the 
seventeenth  century  as  the  spurs  which  I before  men- 
tioned. 

All  this  portion  of  the  chief’s  costume  was  picturesque 
and  in  character,  but  that  upon  which  he  chiefly  prided 
himself  threw  an  air  of  ridicule  over  the  whole  (alas  ! 
such  a failing  is  to  be  found  among  white  as  well  as  red 
men) — I mean,  a common,  ill-made,  cloth  coat,  with  brass 
buttons,  which  had  been  brought  out  from  Fort  Leaven- 
worth by  the  deputation  with  whom  I had  travelled.  A 
lad  beside  him  cairied  his  bow  and  arrows,  in  the  use  of 
which  his  dexterity  is  almost  unequalled,  and  on  which 
he  relied  for  victory,  whether  over  biped  or  quadruped 
foes  ; the  gun  which  he  carried  being  used,  like  his  coat, 
for  show,  not  use,  and  both  cast  away  when  the  chase- 
signal  or  the  war-cry  was  given. 

Such  was  the  chief  to  whom  I now  doffed  my  hat  with 
the  usual  salutation.  We  must  have  been  an  excellent 
pair , if  he  could  only  give  to  the  public  as  faithful  a de- 
scription of  me  as  I have  of  him.  I will  endeavour  to 
do  it  myself,  as  impartially  as  I can.  I was  mounted  on 
my  favourite  sorrel  ;*  and  she,  at  least,  could  bear  com- 
parison with  the  chief’s  steed  in  swiftness,  strength,  and 
endurance,  and  was  very  superior  in  docility  and  gentle- 
ness : on  my  head  was  a broad-brimmed  low-crowned 
hat,  which,  from  having  often  performed  the  double  of- 
fice of  pillow  and  night-cap  by  night,  and  of  umbrella  by 
day,  was  almost  indescribable  in  respect  to  form  ; a blue 
shirt,  and  a black  velveteen  shooting-jacket  with  enor- 
mous pockets,  stuffed  full  of  a strange  miscellany  of  re- 


in England  called  roan. 


CONVERSATION  WITH  THE  CHIEF. 


265 


quisites,  covered  my  upper  man  ; I wore  neither  neck- 
cloth, braces,  nor  waistcoat;  round  my  waist  was  a 
strong  leather  belt,  in  which  were  stuck  my  hunting- 
knife,  and  a brace  of  pistols  in  front,  and  at  the  side,  a 
short  heavy  iron-handled  cut-and-tnrust  sword,  such  as 
is  sometimes  used  in  Germany  in  a boar-hunt,  and  nearly 
resembling  the  old  Roman  sword  ; my  nether  extremi- 
ties were  protected  by  a pair  of  stout  corderoy  breeches 
and  buckskin  leggins,  all  fitting  close  to  the  leg;  and  in 
my  right  hand  was  my  faithful  double-barrelled  rifle.  I 
ought  to  add,  that  my  visage  was  tanned  nearly  of  an  In- 
dian colour,  and  was  ornamented  or  disfigured  by  a pair 
of  long  mustaches. 

Such  were  the  two  persons  who  now  met  to  hold  con- 
ference between  the  Pawnee  lines.  I saw  at  once  that 
the  chief  was  vexed  and  displeased  > so,  after  two  or 
three  brief  remarks  respecting  the  fineness  of  the  day, 
and  the  abundant  marks  of  buffalo  in  the  prairie,  I held 
my  peace,  and  waited  for  him  to  break  the  ice  after  his 
own  fashion.  It  was  not  long  before  he  did  so,  by 
abruptly  remarking,  “ It  is  not  good  that  the  Neshada-ta- 
ka  (the  white  chief)  does  not  visit  the  lodge  of  the  grand 
chief.”  I told  him,  as  well  as  I could,  that  1 had  travel- 
led with  Sa-ni-tsa-rish  from  the  white  men’s  country — 
that  he.  was  good  to  me — that  he  was  my  father,  and  that 
it  would  not  be  good  for  me  to  leave  his  lodge.  He  re- 
turned to  the  charge  more  warmly,  saying,  “that  I was 
a great  white  chief,  and  a friend  of  his  grandfather,  (mean- 
ing the  President  of  the  United  States.)  That  I came 
to  smoke  the  pipe  and  to  hunt  with  the  Pawnees,  and 
that  he  was  the  great  chief,  and  that  it  was  an  insult  to 
him  not  to  live  in  his  lodge.”  I repeated  again  that  “ I 
had  travelled  many  days  with  Sa-ni-tsa-rish  before  I had 

seen  him — that  my  companion  V had  come  with  his 

son,  Pa®-tae-la®-cha’rd,  and  therefore  remained  with  him  ; 
and  that,  after  eating  and  sleeping  so  long  in  the  lodges 
of  our  hosts,  it  would  not  be  right  to  leave  them.” 

Unfortunately,  1 here  touched  upon  another  cord  which 
jarred  upon  the  chiefs  feelings,  by  alluding  to  his  son, 
with  whomfas  I afterward  learned,  he  was  by  no  means 
upon  a friendly  footing.  My  explanation  only  extracted 
Vol.  I. — Z 


266 


EQUIPMENT  OF  WARRIORS. 


an  “ ugh  and  he  soon  left  me,  with  a countenance  at 
least  as  dark  and  ill-humoured  as  when  he  joined  me. 
When  he  galloped  again  to  the  head  of  his  retinue,  I 
could  not  help  admiring  the  picturesque  and  warlike  ap- 
pearance of  the  warriors  around  him.  Some  of  these 
were  dressed  in  buffalo-robes,  gorgeously  painted ; two 
or  three  of  the  principal  warriors  (who  had  belonged  to 
the  deputation  sent  to  Fort  Leavenworth)  had  been  pre- 
sented with  common  English  round  hats ; these  they 
had  stuck  on  their  heads,  still  enveloped  in  the  brown 
paper  and  string  in  which  they  had  been  wrapt  up  in  the 
store,  and  which  they  considered  “great  medicine  :v  it 
was  scarcely  possible  to  restrain  a smile  on  seeing  a dig- 
nified Indian  thus  accoutred.  Others  wore  blankets, 
blue  or  white,  which  hung  in  negligent  folds,  or  floated 
gracefully  in  the  wind,  according  to  the  speed  at  which 
the  rider  moved  ; others  again,  of  the  younger  chiefs, 
were  attired  in  the  extreme  of  Pawnee  dandyism,  in  scar- 
let cloth,  with  beads  on  their  arms  and  necks,  and  all 
their  bridles  glittering  and  jingling  with  ornaments ; 
while  others  remained  entirely  naked,  displaying  as  they 
rode  the  faultless  proportion  of  their  limbs,  and,  to  the 
eye  of  taste,  were  more  gloriously  equipped,  as  they 
thus  came  from  the  hand  of  the  Creator,  than  their  mot- 
ley and  fantastic  biethren,  whom  I have  before  described. 

These  naked  hunters  had  all  a belt  round  the  waist, 
from  which  hung  a small  cloth,  or  kerchief,  and  in  the 
folds  of  the  belt  were  concealed  their  knife,  tobacco, 
tinder,  and  flint,  and  the  other  trifles  which  an  Indian 
always  has  with  him.  On  their  back  was  the  quiver, 
every  arrow  in  which  was  carefully  examined  and  new- 
ly-pointed ;*  in  their  right  hand  the  bow,  and  in  their 
left  hand  the  simple  thong  or  laryetie,  which  was  used 
instead  of  a bridle  ; some  had  saddles,  but  the  greater 
part  of  them  only  interposed  a strip  of  buffalo’s  hide  be- 
tween the  person  and  the  horse. 

* It  is  well  known  to  all  travellers  who  have  visited  the  Indians  of  the 
West,  that  they  have  two  kinds  of  arrows,  one  for  hunting,  the  other 
for  war.  The  former  has  a head  formed  like  the  point  of  an  ordinary 
lance,  or  sometimes  an  isosceles  triangle,  with  a very  narrow  base  ; the 
latter  is  barbed  like  the  point  of  a fish-hook,  obviously  that  a wounded 
enemy  may  not  be  able  to  extract  it. 


FORCED  MARCH. 


267 


We  rode  many  miles  in  this  manner,  making  occasional 
halts,  when  the  great  chief  received  the  reports  of  the 
scouts  ; and,  according  to  their  tenour,  sent  his  procla- 
mations along  the  line.  At  length,  orders  were  given 
to  advance  at  a gallop,  but  to  keep  our  ranks,  none  being 
allowed  to  go  in  front  of  the  chiefs,  or  beyond  a certain 
distance  on  the  flanks,  under  pain  of  a severe  flogging ; 
a penalty  which  the  soldiers  are  by  no  means  remiss  in 
inflicting.*  The  buffalo  were  still  at  a distance,  and  we 
had  as  yet  seen  none  ; but  we  continued  our  rapid  march 
for  above  an  hour : and  here  I could  not  but  admire  the 
activity  and  endurance  of  these  savage  hunters  : the  day 
was  intolerably  hot,  and  there  was  scarcely  a breath  of 
air  to  temper  the  rays  of  a burning  sun. 

It  was  now  two  or  three  o’clock ; we  had  been  in  the 
saddle,  without  rest  or  food,  since  four  in  the  morning,  and 
were  making  a forced  march,  which  kept  the  horses  at  a 
short  canter,  or  round  trot,  of  eight  miles  an  hour  ; yet  did 
numbers  of  these  Pawnees  vault  off  their  horses,  and  run 
by  the  side  of  them,  in  order  that  they  might  be  fresh  and 
ready  as  soon  as  the  buffalo  should  be  in  sight.  My 
good  steed  showed  some  signs  of  weariness  and  exhaus- 
tion from  the  extreme  heat ; and  as  1 was  determined  to 
keep  her  in  order  for  what  might  befall  me  on  my  return, 
I dismounted,  very  reluctantly,  and  mounted  a small 
half-broke  Indian  horse,  which  my  old  chief  sometimes 
lent  to  me.  This  carefulness  of  my  roan  nearly  cost 
me  my  life,  as  will  soon  appear. 

At  length  a momentary  halt  was  given,  and  a hurried 
proclamation  issued,  that  the  “ men  must  be  ready.” 
We  were  drawn  up  on  the  side  of  a hill,  below  which 
was  a valley  of  no  great  depth,  and  on  the  other  side 
another  hill,  intersected  by  many  ravines,  down  each 
of  which  a black  living  torrent  was  pouring  into  the 
valley.  In  fact,  a large  body  of  Indians  had  been  sent 
round  1o  head  them  ; a manoeuvre  which  they  had  suc- 
cessfully executed,  and  they  were  already  plying  their 
fatal  arrows  among  the  rear  herds.  A dreadful  shout, 

* On  one  occasion  a younger  son  of  Sa-ni  tsa  rish  received  a severe 
whipping  for  hunting,  and  bringing  us  some  buffalo  meat,  contrary  to 
the  orders  of  the  day. 


268 


ATTACK  THE  HERDS. 


or  yell  was  now  raised,  and  we  rushed  down  to  meet 
them,  every  man  striving  to  be  the  first  to  reach  the  devo- 
ted band.  As  soon  as  they  became  aware  of  these  new 
foes  in  their  front,  they  seemed  to  forget  all  their  usual 
habits  of  following  a particular  track  or  leader,  and  gal- 
lopped  in  any  direction  to  which  chance  or  terror  drove 
them.  It  was,  indeed,  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
sights  I ever  beheld,  to  see  these  hairy  monsters  rushing 
with  headlong  speed  down  the  declivities,  snorting, 
bellowing,  and  regardless  of  shouts  or  arrows ; some 
rolling  over  lifeless  under  the  shafts  of  their  merciless 
persecutors ; some  standing  still,  with  erect  tail,  blood- 
shot eye,  and  nostrils  frothed  with  blood,  waiting  in  vain 
for  the  crafty  enemy  to  approach  within  reach  of  their 
dying  rush;  and  others  breaking  through  all  opposition, 
and  studding  the  most  distant  part  of  the  landscape  with 
black  specks,  which  gradually  diminished,  and  were  at 
length  lost  to  view. 

Alas  ! I had  more  leisure  for  examining  this  prospect 
than  was  altogether  agreeable  to  me  as  a hunter ; for  I 
was  soon  aware  that  the  animal  on  which  I was  now 
mounted  had  neither  speed  nor  strength  to  carry  me 
among  the  foremost  ranks.  The  cows  are,  as  I have  be- 
fore remarked,  so  much  more  tender  at  this  season,  and 
so  much  more  fleet  than  the  bulls,  that  they  were  the 
chief  object  of  pursuit,  and  were  soon  driven,  by  the 
best  mounted  Indians,  far  beyond  my  reach.  Still  I kept 
gallopping  on,  in  the  hope  that  some  fortunate  accident 
might  throw  me  in  the  way  of  one  which  had  been  over- 
looked. At  length  I saw  a cow  at  the  distance  of  some 
hundred  yards.  She  was  running  pretty  fast,  and  appa- 
rently unhurt  ; but,  on  coming  up  to  her,  I observed  an 
arrow  sticking  in  her  flank.  The  wound  did  not  seem 
serious  ; but,  if  I had  killed  her,  I should  have  been 
obliged  to  give  her  meat  and  skin  up  to  the  fellow  who 
shot  that  arrow  ; so  I left  her  to  her  fate,  and  determined 
to  wage  war  with  some  of  the  lords  of  the  buffalo  race. 
Accordingly,  I rode  toward  the  first  whom  Fate  threw 
in  my  way  : and  he  seemed  by  no  means  inclined  to 
hurry  his  pace,  or  to  change  the  direction  in  which  he 
was  lazily  cantering  along.  He  was  indeed  a magnifi- 


DANGEROUS  CONFLICT. 


269 


cent  bull,  of  the  very  largest  size,  and  had  the  thickest 
fell  of  hair  that  I had  seen  in  the  prairie.  When  I came 
within  fifty  yards  on  his  right  flank,  I rode  on  in  a paral- 
lel line,  not  choosing  to  trust  my  small  and  uncertain 
horse  too  near  to  my  dangerous  neighbour;  but  whene- 
ver I raised  my  rifle  to  shoot,  the  fractious  animal  jumped 
and  sprang  aside,  so  that  it  was  impossible  to  take  a sure 
aim.  After  making  several  fruitless  endeavours  to  fire 
from  his  back,  I dismounted,  and  throwing  the  bridle  over 
my  left  arm,  took  a deliberate  aim  at  the  bull  as  he  can- 
tered past  me,  at  about  the  same  distance  of  fifty  yards. 
The  ball  struck  a few  inches  behind  the  heart,  but  did  not 
touch  it ; one  moment  he  paused,  as  I thought,  about  to 
fall,  but  it  was  only  to  glare  his  eye  fiercely  upon  me, 
lash  his  tail,  and  then  to  charge  me  at  full  speed.  It 
may  be  believed  that  I was  not  long  in  jumping  on  my 
horse,  and  burying  the  spurs  in  his  flanks  ; but  so  wearied 
or  slow  was  he,  that  before  he  got  into  a gallop,  the  bull 
was  within  a few  yards  of  me. 

And  now  began  a race  which  was  run  with  as  hearty 
good  will  of  the  contending  parties  (at  least  I can  an- 
swer for  one  of  them),  as  any  trial  of  speed  on  earth 
since  poor  Hector  fled  round  the  walls  of  Troy.  It 
would  have  been  madness  to  expend  my  last  bullet  in  a 
random  shot,  so  I reserved  it  for  a mortal  struggle  in 
case  my  horse  and  I should  be  overthrown ; and,  in  the 
meantime,  urged  him  with  hand,  leg,  and  spur,  to  his 
utmost  exertions.  Indeed,  he  required  little  pressing  ; 
for  terror  lent  him  wings.  Whether  any  feelings  of  a 
similar  nature  occupied  his  rider,  I do  not  feel  called 
upon  to  state,  as  I am  not  at  confession  ; but,  for  a dis- 
tance between  seventy  and  a hundred  yards,  I knew  not 
how  the  race  would  terminate.  I looked  over  my  right 
shoulder,  and  his  thundering  hoofs,  glaring  eyes,  and 
nostrils  throwing  out  bloody  froth,  were  close  at  my 
horse’s  flank.  However,  I could  soon  perceive  that, 
from  his  unwieldy  size,  and  the  severe  wound  I had 
given  him,  he  was  failing  in  strength  ; and,  accordingly, 
pressed  my  little  horse  to  place  me  yet  farther  out  of  his 
reach.  As  soon  as  he  saw  that  his  efforts  at  revenge 
had  failed,  he  stopped  short,  stamped,  blew,  bellowed, 


270 


DANGEROUS  CONFLICT, 


and  made  all  the  most  furious  gestures  of  rage  and  pain. 
When  I was  again  about  fifty  yards  from  him,  I pulled 
up,  and  determined  to  wait  two  or  three  minutes,  very 
prudently  reflecting,  that,  in  the  meantime  my  horse  was 
recovering  breath,  while  my  enemy  was  bleeding  and 
exhausting  himself  by  empty  demonstrations  of  fury. 
As  soon  as  I thought  my  horse  ready  for  a new  race,  if 
necessary,  I again  dismounted,  and  fired  with  better  aim 
and  effect.  The  bull  staggered  a few  paces,  and  rolled 
in  the  dust. 

I was  not  sorry  to  see  him  fall ; for  I felt  no  confi- 
dence in  my  horse,  and  was  not  by  any  means  sure  that 
the  next  race,  if  I had  been  obliged  to  run  another,  would 
have  terminated  so  fortunately,  indeed,  I had  been 
guilty  of  gross  imprudence  in  dismounting  so  near  to 
him,  while  his  tail  had  that  peculiar  curve  and  elevation 
which  the  Indians  call  “ the  mad  tail.”  I had  received 
warning  on  the  subject,  but  do  not  remember  whether  I 
have  before  noted  it  down,  that  the  buffalo,  when  gal- 
lopping in  flight,  carries  his  tail  like  that  of  ordinary  cat- 
tle ; when  wounded,  or  at  bay,  he  often  lashes  it,  or  car- 
ries it  over  his  back  ; but  when  mad , or  in  that  mood 
which  induces  him  to  attack  anything  within  his  reach,  he 
carries  it  nearly  horizontal,  with  a slight  curve  in  the  mid- 
dle, like  some  of  the  lions  in  coats-of-arms.  Such  had 
been  the  case  with  my  late  opponent ; and,  with  so  sorry  a 
steed,  I ought  to  have  kept  at  a more  respectful  distance. 

Having  given  him  the  coup  de  grace  with  my  hunting- 
knife,  I fortunately  saw  two  Indians,  of  inferior  rank, 
with  a horse,  and,  calling  to  them,  told  them  to  cut  up 
and  carry  the  meat  to  the  tent  of  Sa-ni-tsa-rish,  and  to 
keep  what  they  chose  for  themselves.  This  latter  por- 
tion of  my  instructions  they  obeyed  more  faithfully  than 
the  former ; for  they  kept  it  all , and  took  none  to  my  old 
chief.  In  truth,  I was  not  very  anxious  about  it,  as  the 
flesh  of  this  veteran  was,  probably,  as  coarse  and  tough 
as  that  of  a rhinoceros. 

My  nag  being  now  refreshed  by  half  an  hour’s  rest 
and  grazing,  I set  off  in  quest  of  new  adventures,  and 
had  not  proceeded  far  before  I perceived  a dismounted 
Indian,  whose  horse  was  ripped  up  by  a buffalo.  I has- 


A YOUNG  BULL  SHOT. 


27  i 


lened  forward,  and  killed  the  savage  animal,  which  was 
still  goring  and  stamping  on  its  unhappy  victim.  On 
approaching  the  unhorsed  cavalier,  I recognized  my 
friend  lotan,  the  chief  of  the  Oloes.  He  knew  three 
words  of  English,  and  said,  “ Very  good  ; very  good  ; 
thankie.”  He  then  pointed  to  his  thigh,  the  whole  length 
of  which  the  buffalo’s  horn  had  grazed,  without  entering, 
and  said  in  Pawnee,  “ Not  good  ; not  good.”*  I saw 
that  he  was  a good  deal  bruised,  and  offered  him  my 
horse ; but  he  laughed,  and  declined  it,  beginning  at  the 
same  time  to  cut  up  the  quarry.  One  of  his  Otoe  men 
coming  up,  I left  them  together,  and  proceeded  on  my 
way,  congratulating  myself  upon  having  escaped  better 
than  the  chief,  who  lost  his  horse,  and  had  to  walk  back 
to  camp. 

As  I trotted  over  the  plain,  I began  to  feel  the  crav- 
ings of  hunger  almost  to  a painful  degree,  which  is  not 
to  be  wondered  at,  as  I had  been  twelve  hours  in  hard 
exercise,  without  rest,  and  had  eaten  nothing  on  the  pre- 
ceding day.  After  riding  a few  miles  farther,  I saw7  a 
small  herd  : upon  giving  chase,  a young  bull  fell  behind 
the  rest,  being  so  fat  that  he  could  not  keep  up  with 
them.  After  running  them  a considerable  distance,  we 
came  to  a very  narrow  steep  ravine  ; and  as  I saw  the 
leaders  cross  directly  up  the  opposite  side,  I knew  that 
the  fat  gentleman  would  follow  them  as  well  as  he  w7as 
able.  Accordingly,  I dismounted,  examined  my  caps, 
and  prepared  for  a comfortable  shot.  When  all  the  rest 
had  disappeared  over  the  opposite  brow,  he  toiled  lazily 
up  the  ascent.  As  soon  as  he  was  exactly  in  the  place 
where  I wished  him  to  be,  and  not  more  than  forty  yards 
off,  I fired.  He  turned  instantly,  gave  me  a fierce  look, 
and  began  to  run  straight  toward  me  : but  the  ball  had 
been  too  true  ; he  required  no  second,  and  rolled  dead 
into  the  ravine  below7. 

I now  hobbled  my  horse,  took  off  my  jacket,  tucked 
up  my  sleeves,  drew  my  knife,  and  prepared  to  make  my 
coup  d'essai  as  a butcher.  . Previously  to  eating  my  sa- 
vage and  solitary  meal,  I looked  around.  There  was  not 
a human  being  in  sight  to  assist  me  in  turning  over  the 

*Ku-ko6-ra-h6,  a word  compounded  of  k&-ki,  ‘ not,’  and  too-ra-he,  ‘good/ 


272 


a hunter’s  meal. 


body,  which  is  hard  work  for  two  ordinary  men,  but  im- 
possible for  one  : so  I was  obliged  to  content  myself 
with  skinning  only  one  side.  My  knife  was  not  very 
sharp,  and  those  only  who  have  seen  and  proved  the 
skin  of  this  hairy  monster  can  judge  of  the  labour  of  the 
task.  After  an  hour’s  unremitting  work,  I succeeded, 
and  then  went  on  to  open  the  body.  Without  much  dif- 
ficulty I got  at  the  liver,  and  began  to  eat,  certainly  more 
like  a wolf,  or  Indian,  than  a Christian  man.  After  de- 
vouring several  large  morsels,  I saw  a hunter  coming 
toward  me  at  full  speed.  He  had  been  unsuccessful, 
and  was  hungry.  I was  nearly  choked  with  thirst,  and, 
as  soon  as  he  arrived,  made  him  signs,  that  if  he  would 
fetch  me  water,  I would  give  him  as  much  to  eat  as  he 
chose.  He  nodded  assent.  We  then  took  out  the  blad- 
der of  the  buffalo ; I told  him  to  wash  it  well,  and  bring 
it  back  full  of  clear  water.  He  went  off  at  a gallop, 
and,  in  about  a quarter  of  an  hour,  came  back,  having 
executed  his  commission.  I cannot  say  that  the  water 
was  quite  crystal  ; but  I never  enjoyed  a more  delicious 
meal  than  this  raw  liver,  and  the  water,  such  as  it  was. 
The  Indian,  also,  showed  me  two  or  three  other  morsels, 
which  I found  excellent ; and  I strongly  recommend  to 
any  gentleman  who  may  ever  find  himself  similarly  situ- 
ated, to  break  a bone,  and  suck  the  marrow.* 

When  he  had  satisfied  his  hunger,  my  new  ally  made 
me  signs  that  he  was  on  an  errand  for  one  of  the  chiefs, 
and  must  hasten  away.  Having  told  him  that  he  might 
go,  and  seen  him  depart,  I turned  again  to  my  dissecting 
operations ; but,  ere  long,  was  once  more  interrupted  by 
the  arrival  on  the  spot  of  two  young  men,  mounted.  I 
did  not  know  either  of  them  ; neither  did  I much  like 
their  appearance.  I strongly  suspect  that  they  belong- 
ed to  the  Republique  Band,  who  are  always  the  most 
mischievous  and  dangerous  Indians  in  the  nation. 

As  we  were  so  far  remote  from  all  observation,  I 
thought  it  better  to  place*  my  rifle  (in  which  there  was 

* I hope  the  indulgent  reader  will  remember  that  I had  eaten  nothing 
for  forty-eight  hours,  and  that  the  cravings  of  hunger  had  rendered  me 
almost  mad.  I have  since  shuddered  at  the  wolfish  sensations  which  I 
remember  to  have  experienced  that  day. 


PERPLEXING  SITUATION. 


273 


one  ball),  in  a position  where  I could  readily  snatch  it 
up  ; and,  with  a loaded  pistol  in  my  belt,  I stooped  over 
the  buffalo,  as  if  intent  upon  it,  but  actually  watching 
them.  When  they  came  up,  and  had  given  the  usual 
salutation,  they  examined  the  meat,  said  it  was  very 
good,  and  offered  to  help  me  in  cutting  it  up,  if  I would 
make  them  a present.  This  seasonable  assistance  was 
not  to  be  refused  ; so  I told  them,  if  they  would  do  so, 
and  assist  me  to  place  it  on  my  hoise,  I would  give  one 
of  them  a knife,  and  the  other,  one  or  two  papers  of 
rouge. 

They  seemed  satisfied,  and  proceeded  to  cut  away 
industriously  for  a few  minutes  ; and  I must  confess 
with  skill  so  superior  to  mine,  that  they  did  more  in  that 
time  than  1 could  do  in  half  an  hour.  However,  they 
soon  stopped  ; and  one  said  he  must  have  my  knife,  the 
other  that  he  wanted  a trifle  that  was  hanging  by  a silk 
chain  round  my  neck.  I told  them  no, — they  should 
have  what  I originally  promised.  They  seemed  very 
angry  at  this,  and  said  they  would  cut  no  more.  I told 
them,  “ it  was  very  good,  they  might  ride  on.”  One  then 
approached,  and  was  proceeding  to  place  on  his  horse 
the  meat  that  he  and  his  companion  had  cut,  while  the 
latter  sneaked  round  the  buffalo,  and  began  to  paw  and 
handle  the  butt-end  of  the  rifle.  I did  not  like  the  pro- 
ceedings of  these  two  ill-looking  rascals,  nor  the  glances 
which  they  exchanged  with  each  other,  and  not  wishing 
to  trust  them  too  far,  took  up  my  rifle,  and  told  them 
gravely  that  the  meat  was  mine,  and  they  should  not  take 
it  away,  but  if  they  were  willing  to  cut  it  up,  that  I would 
make  them  the  presents  I had  promised.  They  said 
very  angrily  they  would  cut  no  more.  I then  sat  down 
quietly  by  the  buffalo,  examined  the  cap  of  my  pistol, 
and  told  them  they  had  better  go  to  the  camp  ; they 
muttered  a few'  words  together,  which  I did  not  under- 
stand, and  rode  off. 

I then  collected  all  the  meat  which  I and  they  had  cut, 
and  stripping  the  hide  into  thongs,  strung  the  masses  of 
flesh,  amounting  to  about  a hundred  weight,  upon  them, 
in  the  usual  Indian  fashion,  including  the  tongue,  heart, 
fat,  and  wrhat  remained  of  the  liver.  I had  not  my  com- 


274 


PERPLEXING  SITUATION. 


pass  with  me,  and  after  the  circles  and  deviations  which 
I had  made  in  the  course  of  the  chase,  it  was  by  no  means 
easy  to  find  either  the  distance  or  direction  of  the  camp, 
especially  as  ihe  great  chief  had  sent  back  messengers 
after  the  hunt  began,  ordering  them  to  move  their  en- 
campment to  the  banks  of  some  streamlet  indicated  to 
them,  but  totally  unknown  to  me.  However,  I knew  it 
must  be  somewhere  between  north  and  east ; I had  watch- 
ed the  Indians  who  had  left  me;  and  putting  these  two 
sources  of  information  together,  I made  up  my  mind  as 
to  the  course  I would  steer,  and  having  un-hobbled  my 
horse,  proceeded  to  sling  the  meat  over  his  back. 

He  stood  perfectly  quiet  till  I had  put  on  all  but  the 
last  and  heaviest  sling  of  flesh,  this  required  both  my 
hands,  and  just  as  I threw  it  over  his  back,  the  restive 
animal  reared  up,  struck  me  on  the  head,  knocked  me 
down,  and  gallopped  off.  Not  being  hurt,  I jumped  up, 
and  saw  him  kicking,  leaping,  and  flinging,  till  he  had 
scattered  all  my  hard-earned  meat  over  the  prairie,  then 
he  cantered  leisurely  down  the  valley  after  the  Indians 
who  had  left  me.  Though  he  was  not  an  Eclipse,  I could 
not  hope  to  overtake  him  on  foot ; so  I walked  about,  and 
collected  together  all  the  disjecta  membra  which  had  al- 
ready cost  me  so  much  trouble,  and  forming  them  into  a 
heap,  sat  down  to  ruminate. 

My  case  seemed  this.  The  camp  was  moved  I knew 
not  whither,  but  certainly  was  at  some  distance.  I was 
alone,  and  out  of  hail  of  all  assistance  ; nay,  I could  see 
the  two  scoundrels  who  had  left  me,  driving  my  horse 
far  away,  instead  of  endeavouring  to  catch  him  for  me, 
and  I made  an  internal  resolution  to  reward  them  as  they 
deserved,  if  ever  they  gave  me  an  opportunity  ; I had 
also  before  me  the  prospect  of  a long  walk  in  oppressively 
hot  weather,  added  to  the  uncertainty  of  finding  the  camp, 
whither  I was  obliged  to  devise  some  means  of  car- 
rying my  rifle,  my  pistols,  my  large  thick  shooting-jacket, 
and  my  hundred  weight  of  meat. 

From  this  prospect  I turned  to  my  actual  state,  sitting, 
as  I was,  on  the  ground,  with  my  hands,  arms,  and  face 
saturated  and  glued  writh  blood  ; it  was  indeed,  too  much, 
and  I burst  into  an  uncontrollable  fit  of  laughter.  I then 


A FRIEND  IN  NEED. 


275 


began  to  think  of  the  strange  and  varied  notions  of  plea- 
sure entertained  by  different  men,  and  could  not  help 
questioning  whether  my  Pawnee  trip,  voluntarily  incur- 
red, with  its  accompaniments,  did  not  render  the  sanity 
of  my  mind  a matter  of  some  doubt. 

My  musings  were  interrupted  by  seeing  an  Indian  ap- 
pear on  the  opposite  heights,  and  ride  along  them  to- 
ward the  camp.  I made  signals,  and  shouted  for  him 
to  come  toward  me  ; he  did  so ; and,  on  his  near  ap- 
proach, I saw  that  his  horse  was  laden  with  meat,  and 
that  he  was  a fellow  of  a fine,  open,  bold  expression  of 
countenance.  I told  him  my  tale  in  brief ; and  when  I 
described  to  him  how  the  two  young  men  had  frightened 
away  instead  of  catching  and  restoring  my  horse,  he 
frowned  and  said,  they  were  “ bad  men  and  with- 
out another  word,  threw  all  the  meal  from  his  horse,  and 
galloped  off  in  pursuit.  I wondered  how  he  had  so 
readily  understood  my  broken  Pawnee;  but  I suppose 
that  in  this,  as  in  every  other  case,  distress  and  earnest- 
ness produced  eloquence  ! 

In  half  an  hour  he  returned,  bringing  with  him  my  truant 
steed.  I thanked  him  by  gestures , (for  in  their  language 
there  is  no  word  for  “ thank  you,”)  but  he  seemed  to  un- 
derstand me,  for  he  smiled  and  appeared  in  very  good 
humour.  I assisted  him  to  load  his  horse,  and  he  per- 
formed the  same  office  for  me  ; as  both  steeds  were 
weary,  I only  added  the  weight  of  my  jacket  to  the 
meat,  threw  the  bridle  on  my  arm,  shouldered  my  rifle, 
and  walked  by  the  side  of  my  good-natured  companion  ; 
here  I amused  myself  by  prosecuting  my  studies  in  his 
language. 

After  we  had  walked  four  or  five  miles,  we  overtook 
an  Indian  crawling  along  by  the  side  of  his  horse,  at  a 
pace  which  showed  one  or  both  to  be  nearly  disabled. 
On  coming  close  to  them  we  found  that  they  had  been 
both  overthrown  by  a bull ; the  man  had  escaped  with 
a few  severe  bruises,  but  the  poor  animal  had  two  deep 
gashes  in  his  hams  into  which  I could  have  thrust  my 
hands.  I endeavoured  to  persuade  him  to  let  me  put  it 
out  of  pain  ; but.  he  insisted  upon  dragging  it  on  towards 
the  camp,  which,  however,  it  never  reached. 


276 


RETURN  TO  THE  CAMP. 


As  my  companion  had  not  asked  for  any  reward  for 
his  trouble  or  assistance,  I was  the  more  anxious  to  give 
him  one,  and,  having  nothing  about  me,  I desired  him  as 
soon  as  we  should  reach  the  camp  to  come  to  my  lodge, 
and  I would  give  him  some  tobacco,  rouge,  &c.  He 
said,  it  was  “ very  good,  but  he  could  not  come  to  night, 
as  his  tent  was  far,  but  he  would  come  in  the  morning,” 
After  three  hours’  brisk  walking  we  came  in  sight  of 
the  fires,  shook  hands  and  parted,  as  his  lodge  was  to 
the  east,  and  I knew  mine  must  be  to  the  west  of  the  en- 
campment. 

When  I arrived  before  Sa-m-tsa-rish’s  lodge  with  my 
nag  thus  laden,  the  chief’s  wives  and  daughters  came 
out  to  look  after  the  horse  and  meat ; and  while  they 
were  unloading,  I walked  in  and  sat  down  with  the  dig- 
nified gravity  of  a mandarin.  This  was  easier  to  assume 
than  it  was  to  maintain,  for  the  squaws  interchanged 
most  comic  glances  in  silence  while  they  unpacked  the 
meat,  and  saw  the  uncouth  and  strange  nature  of  the  white 
chief’s  butchery  ; for,  as  I had  been  unable  to  cut  up 
the  whole  animal,  I had  merely  picked  out  the  largest 
masses  of  solid  meat  and  fat,  the  forms  and  shapes  of 
which  were  of  the  most  fantastic  and  irregular  descrip- 
tion. I hope  they  thought  it  was  done  according  to  the 
white  man’s  medicine ; at  all  events,  it  would  tend  to 
raise  me  in  their  estimation,  to  see  that  I could  bring 
home,  as  well  as  krll,  buffalo  meat. 


MEDICINE  CEREMONIES. 


277 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Medicine  Ceremonies. — Instance  of  ungovernable  Temper  and  Cruelty 
in  a young  Indian. — Indian  Horse-dealers. — Bargaining  anecdotes. 
— Hiring  a Guide. — Knavery  of  the  Great  Chief. — Hunting  Party  of 
Delawares  and  Shawnees. — Conversation  with  them. — Dislike  of  the 
Pawnees  to  their  new  Guests. — Pride  of  the  Delawares. — Unequal 
Conflict. — Skilful  Retreat. — Delaware  and  Shawnee  Languages. — 
Departure  of  the  Visiters. 

I learned  that  in  the  hunt  already  described,  a good 
many  Indians  had  been  bruised  or  wounded,  and  several 
horses  killed.  Among  those  who  were  hurt,  was  a chief 
of  some  distinction  ; he  had  a few  ribs  and  one  of  his 
arms  broken.  The  setting  of  this  last,  together  with  the 
completion  of  his  wound-dressing,  was  to  be  accompa- 
nied with  much  ceretnony,  so  I determined  to  be  a spec- 
tator. I went  accordingly  to  his  lodge,  where  a great 
crowd  was  already  assembled,  and  with  some  difficulty 
made  my  way  through  to  the  inner  circle.  Not  being 
quite  sure  that  I was  permitted  to  see  these  mysteries, 
and  being  fully  aware  of  the  danger  of  breaking,  even 
unintentionally,  any  of  their  medicine-rules,  I kept  myself 
as  quiet  and  unobserved  as  possible.  Before  the  lodge, 
and  in  the  centre  of  the  semicircle,  sat,  or  rather  reclined, 
the  wounded  man,  supported  by  one  or  two  packs  of 
skins,  and  on  each  side  of  him  a row  of  his  kindred  ; the 
elder  warriors  occupied  the  front,  the  younger  ihe  second 
places,  and  behind  them,  close  to  the  lodge,  were  the 
boys,  squaws,  &c. 

A profound  silence  was  observed  ; and  when  all  the 
medicine-men  and  relatives  had  arrived  and  taken  their 
seats,  a great  medicine-pipe  was  brought  and  passed 
round,  with  the  usual  ceremonial  observances  of  a certain 
number  of  whiffs  to  the  Earth,  the  Buffalo  Spirit,  and 
the  (Hreat  Spirit;  the  pipe  was  not  handed  to  the 
wounded  man,  probably  because  he  was  supposed  to  be 
for  the  time  under  the  influence  of  a bad  spirit,  and  there- 
Vol.  I. — Aa. 


278.. 


CRUELTY. 


fore  not  entitled  to  the  privileges  of  the  medicine.  When 
this  smoking  ceremony  was  concluded,  three  or  four  of 
the  doctors  or  conjurors,  and  a few  of  ihe  great  medicine- 
men, assembled  round  him  ; the  former  proceeded  to 
feel  his  side  and  apply  some  remedy  to  it ; while  one  of 
them  set  the  arm,  and  bound  it  very  strongly  round  with 
leather  and  thongs.  During  this  operation,  the  medi- 
cine-men stooped  over  him,  and  went  through  sundry 
mummeries  which  I could  not  accurately  distinguish. 

As  soon  as  the  bandages  and  dressings  were  completed, 
they  began  a medicine-dance  around  him.  At  first  the 
movement  was  slow,  and  accompanied  by  the  low  ordi- 
nary chant ; but  gradually  both  acquired  violence  and 
rapidity,  till  at  length  they  reached  the  height  of  fury  and 
frenzy.  They  swung  their  tomahawks  round  the  head 
of  the  wounded  man,  rushed  upon  him  with  the  most 
dreadful  yells,  shook  the  weapons  violently  in  his  face, 
jumped  repeatedly  over  him,  pretending  each  time  to  give 
him  the  fatal  blow,  then  checking  it  as  it  descended  ; and, 
while  once  or  twice  I saw  them  push  and  kick  his  limbs, 
one  of  the  most  excited  siruck  him  several  very  severe 
blows  on  the  breast.  On  inquiry,  I learned  that  all  these 
gesticulations  were  intended  to  threaten  and  banish  the 
i'ivil  Spirit,  which  was  supposed  to  have  possessed  him. 
While  this  was  going  on,  a complete  silence  reigned 
throughout  the  crowd,  none  being  permitted  to  dance  or 
yell  except  those  actually  engaged  in  the  medicine- 
ceremonies. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  we  moved  our  camp  a few 
miles  southward,  and  could  now  see,  at  a great  distance, 
the  verdant  fringe  of  timber  which  marked  the  course  of 
the  upper  waters  of  the  Arkansas.  Here  I had  an  op- 
portunity of  remarking  the  strange  materials  of  which  an 
Indian’s  temper  is  composed,  and  which  it  is  necessary 
for  a white  man  resident  among  them,  who  has  any  re- 
gard for  his  life,  to  watch  and  study  carefully.  The 
lodges  were  all  packed,  the  curved  poles  trailing  behind 
the  mules,  and  the  busy  squaws  adjusting,  with  their 
usual  chattering,  scolding,  and  active  bustle,  the  loads 
of  the  different  animals,  when  one  of  the  younger  lads 
brought  to  the  son  of  Sa-m-tsa-rish  his  favourite  buffalo 


CRUELTY. 


279 


horse,  which  he  was  going  to  ride  (contrary  to  custom) 
on  the  march. 

I have  before  described  this  young  man  as  a great 
Pawnee  dandy  ; we  had  hunted  antelope  and  elk  several 
limes  together,  and  I always  considered  him  very  quiet 
and  good-tempered;  he  used  to  call  me  his  brother;  and 
while  we  were  going  to  or  returning  from  a hunt,  would 
teach  me  Pawnee  words  and  phrases.  He  was  now 
holding  in  his  hand  a kind  of  Mexican  bridle,  which  he 
wished  to  put  over  the  head  of  his  horse  ; but  the  latter, 
a fine  half-broke  animal,  backed,  and^would  not  let  him 
approach.  With  the  foolish  violence  common  among 
Indians  on  such  occasions,  he  stood  directly  before  it 
hauling  hard  upon  the  Iaryeite  (or  halter) : of  course,  this 
made  the  animal  pull  against  him,  and  back  still  farther; 
when,  with  a sudden  movement  of  rage,  he  drew  his 
scalp-knife,  sprang  at  the  horse  like  a tiger,  and  buried 
the  knife  in  its  eye  ! 

The  old  chief  was  standing  by,  looking  on  with  the  im- 
perturbable nerves  of  an  Indian  : he  neither  spoke  a 
word  nor  moved  a muscle,  because  the  young  man  was 
grown  up,  and  was  among  the  warriors  of  the  tribe  ; but 
1 could  not  resist  saying  to  the  former,  “ That  was  not 
good.”  He  answered,  gravely,  “ No.”  I then  turned  to 
observe  the  son.  As  soon  as  he  became  sensible  of  what 
he  had  done  in  a moment  of  passion,  he  was  vexed  and 
ashamed,  but  too  haughty  to  show  it ; and,  walking  to  a 
spot  about  twenty  yards’ distant.,  and  throwing  his  scarlet 
blanket  over  his  shoulder,  he  drew  himself  up  to  his  full 
height,  and  there  stood  a motionless  statue.  The  camp 
moved  on,  and  long  after  the  last  straggler  had  left  the 
place,  I saw  him  standing  in  the  same  attitude  and  on 
the  same  spot.  The  poor  horse  was  led  off  by  one  of 
the  boys  ; and,  as  I saw  the  heavy  drops  of  blood  “ cours- 
ing each  other  down  his  innocent  nose,”  during  all  the 
march  of  lhat  day,  while  the  hanging  head,  the  flapping 
ears,  and  the  trailing  limbs,  showed  the  acuteness  of  hi3 
sufferings,  I wished  to  terminate  them  by  putting  a mus- 
ket-ball through  his  head  ; but  it  would  not  have  been 
prudent  to  ask  permission  so  to  do — and  I went  on  my 
way,  sickened  with  disgust  at  the  ungoverned  passions 


250 


INDIAN  HORSE-DEALERS. 


and  cruelty  of  the  young  chief.  He  felt , however, 
though  he  would  not  display  them,  both  sorrow  and 
shame  ; for  he  kept  aloof  from  the  band  all  day,  and 
never  afterward  alluded  to  the  circumstance. 

I now  began  to  bargain  in  earnest  for  horses  where- 
with to  return  to  the  fort ; for  we  required  three  or  four, 
and  our  remaining  articles  of  exchange  were  scarcely 
sufficient  to  procure  them.  Certainly  1 never,  even 
among  horse-dealers,  met  with  such  impudent  cheats  and 
extortioners  aS  my  Pawnee  friends.  They  knew  that  I 
must  buy  horses,  and  determined  to  have  their  own  price. 

After  looking  at  and  rejecting  two  or  three  scarecrow 
animals  which  were  brought  for  me  to  examine,  one  of 
which  was  lame,  another  blind  and  broken-winded,  and 
another  twenty-five  years  old,  I determined  to  adopt  the 
advice  of  my  old  chief,  which  was  to  spread  out  my 
stores  before  his  lodge,  setting  apart  the  exact  quantity 
which  J meant  to  offer  for  one  horse  ; and  then  to  send 
the  heralds  through  the  village  to  cry  aloud  that  the 
white  chief  wanted  horses,  and  was  willing  to  trade.  I 
also  sent  for  the  half-French  interpreter,  in  case  any  ex- 
planation being  required  ; although  perfectly  aware  that 
m driving  bargains  he  would  take  part  with  the  Pawnees, 
and  not  with  me*  Accordingly,  a good  many  were 
brought  for  me  to  inspect.  Some  I rejected  at  once, 
others  I jumped  upon  and  rode  for  one  or  two  hundred 
yards  ; at  length  I found  one  which  was  neither  lame, 
blind,  nor  very  old,  and  bought  it,  after  much  disputing 
on  both  sides,  for  three  blankets,  and  the  usual  accompa- 
niments of  knives,  powder,  lead,  beads,  &c. 

About  this  time  the  great  chief  came  to  pay  me  a visit. 
1 gave  him  some  coffee,  of  which  a little  of  my  original 
stock  remained  (and  of  which  the  Indian  agent  had  also 


* I have  before  mentioned  that  this  interpreter  was  an  Indian  in  tastes, 
habits,  language,  and  appearance,  though  he  called  himself  a French 
Canadian.  He  had  two  squaws  and  a number  of  children.  I know  not 
how  many  years  he  had  resided  among  the  Pawnees  ; but  whenever  he 
tried  to  explain  anything  respecting  them  to  me  in  French,  he  always 
called  them  44  Les  Sauvages.”  He  was  known  among  them  by  the 
name  of  I-sha-pa,  which  was,  I believe,  a corruption  of  La  Chapelle.  He 
lived  with  the  Republican  Band  ; and  I rarely  saw  him,  except  when  I 
sent  for  him  on  some  such  occasion  as  the  present. 


BARGAINING  ANECDOTE?. 


281 


sent  him  some  as  a present,  he  being  the  only  Pawnee 
who  ever  had  such  a luxury  in  his  lodge);  and  having 
then  filled  a pipe  of  Kinnekineck  and  presented  it  to  him, 
I waited  in  silence  till  he  should  think  fit  to  explain  the 
object  of  his  visit.  At  last  he  abruptly  said,  “ A-teos 
ka-hi-te-na  a-lusha  !” — My  father,  you  want  a horse  ?” 
To  this  polite  address  from  a man  forty  years  my  senior, 
I answered  bv  a sign  of  assent : but  added,  partly  in 
words  and  partly  in  signs,  that  I had  not  articles  suffi- 
cient, either  in  number  or  quality,  to  make  him  an  equi- 
valent present  for  a horse.  This  I said,  because  I knew 
that  the  old  rogue  had  more  blankets,  paints,  beads,  &c., 
already  than  ten  horses  could  carry.  However,  he  re- 
plied that,  if  I would  give  him  the  “ medicine-tube  ” 
hanging  round  my  neck,  he  would  give  me  a horse  for  it. 

This  was  my  favourite  pocket-telescope,  which  I had 
used  in  deer-hunting  in  Scotland  and  on  the  Alleghanies, 
and  with  which  I was  unwilling  to  part,  as  it  was  very 
useful  in  these  extensive  prairies  for  descrying  men  or 
buffalo  at  a distance,  But  poverty  and  necessity  are 
stern  advisers  : besides  which,  I knew  that  it  was  against 
all  rules  among  Indians  to  refuse  an  article  which  they 
have  directly  asked  for;  so,  with  as  willing  and  good 
a grace  as  I could  assume,  I undid  the  belt,  and  telling 
him  that  he  was  my  father  and  a great  chief,  and  that  I 
felt  sure  he  would  give  me  a horse  fit  to  overtake  men 
or  buffalo,  I hung  the  telescope  round  his  neck,  and 
endeavoured  to  teach  him  how  to  lengthen  and  shorten  it 
in  order  to  get  the  right  focus,  and  also  how  to  wipe  the 
glasses  when  they  might  get  dirty.  At  the  same  time,  I 
told  him  not  to  open  it  much,  for  it  was  “ not  good  so  to 
do.” 

He  looked  for  some  time  at  the  telescope,  and  then  at 
a pistol  which  was  stuck  in  my  belt,  and  seemed'  to  hesi- 
tate which  he  liked  best.  He  said  that  they  were  both 
“good,”  and  that  he  would  give  me  a horse  for  either  of 
them.  H id  the  weapon  been  my  own,  and  had  I been 
provided  with  one  or  two  spare  pistols,  I would  certainly 
have  preferred  giving  him  that  to  giving  him  my  tele- 
scope ; but  it  belonged  to  an  officer  at  Fort  Leavenworth, 
who.  had  very  obligingly  lent  it  to  me  ; and,  beside  it,  I 
A A* 


282 


BARGAINING  ANECDOTES. 


had  only  a pair  of  little  pistols,  sometimes  called,  in  Lon- 
don slang,  “ bull-dogs.”  I endeavoured  to  explain  to  him 
that  it  belonged  to  another  white  chief,  and  that  I could 
not  give  it  aw>ay  ; but  that  my  telescope  was  “greater 
medicine”  (more  valuable),  and  that  he  was  welcome 
to  it.  He  said,  “ It  is  good  and  rising  up,  he  left  me, 
with  as  complacent  and  satisfied  an  expression  on  his 
countenance  as  its  habilual  grim  cunning  would  admit. 

Soon  after  he  was  gone,  one  of  the  warriors  came  and 
told  me  he  would  give  me  a horse,  if  I would  give  him 
my  “ long  blanket.”  This  was,  indeed,  a severe  trial  of 
my  affection  for  my  highland  plaid,  for  the*  price  offered 
was  certainly  (considering  my  present  necessities)  be- 
yond the  value  of  the  article  ; but  then,  it  was  my  own 
family  tartan — had  been  my  companion  and  protector 
in  many  a rough  day,  and  was  a constant  and  consoling 
reminiscence  of  home,  so  I determined  to  part  with  any- 
thing and  everything  rather  than  that.  I told  him  it  was 
my  “ medicine-blanket,”  and  I could  not  give  it  away. 
He  left  me,  not  well  pleased  ; and  as  he  walked  off,  my 
old  chief  shook  his  head,  and,  in  answer  to  my  inquiry, 
said  briefly,  “ He  is  a bad  man,  and  has  no  horse  :”  mean- 
ing in  01  her  words,  that  he  was  a rogue,  who  would  have 
found  some  means  of  absconding  with  my  plaid,  and 
who  had  no  horse  to  give  me. 

Soon  after  this,  while  I was  still  sitting  near  my  packs 
of  goods,  like  an  Israelile  in  Monmouth-sireet,  an  elderly 
chief  approached,  and  signified  his  wish  to  trade.  Our 
squaws  placed  some  meat  before  him,  after  which  I 
gave  him  the  pipe  ; and  in  the  meantime  had  desired  my 
servant  to  search  my  saddle-bags,  and  to  add  to  the  heap 
of  saleable  articles  everything  of  every  kind  beyond 
what  was  absolutely  necessary  for  mv  covering  on  my 
return.  A spare  shirt,  handkerchief,  and  a waistcoat,  were 
thus  drafted  ; and,  among  other  things,  was  a kind  of 
elastic  flannel  waistcoat,  made  for  wearing  next  to  the 
skin,  and  to  be  drawn  over  the  head,  as  it  was  without 
buttons  or  any  opening  in  front.  It  was  -too  small  for 
me,  and  altogether  so  tight  and  uncomfortable,  although 
elastic,  that  I had  determined  to  part  with  it. 

To  this  last  article  my  new  customer  took  a great 


BARGAINING  ANECDOTES. 


283 


fancy  ; and  he  made  me  describe  to  him  the  method  of 
putting  it  on,  and  the  warmth  and  comfort  of  it  when 
on.  Be  it  remembered  that  he  was  a very  large  corpu- 
lent man,  probably  weighing  sixteen  stone ; I knew  him 
to  be  very  good-natured,  as  I had  hunted  once  with  his 
son  ; and,  on  returning  to  his  lodge,  the  father  had  feasted 
me,  chatted  with  me  by  signs,  and  taught  me  some  of 
that  most  extraordinary  Indian  method  of  communica- 
tion. He  said  he  should  like  to  try  on  the  jacket  ; and 
as  he  threw  the  buffalo  robe  off  his  huge  shoulders,  I 
could  scarcely  keep  my  gravity,  when  I compared  their 
dimensions  with  the  garment  into  which  we  were  about 
to  attempt  their  introduction.  However,  by  dint  of  great 
industry  and  care,  we  contrived  to  get  him  into  it.  In 
the  body  it  was  a foot  too  short,  and  fitted  him  so  close 
that  every  thread  was  stretched  to  the  uttermost ; the 
sleeves  reached  a very  little  way  below  his  elbow. 
However,  he  looked  upon  his  arms  and  person  with  great 
complacency,  and  elicited  many  smiles  from  the  squaws 
at  the  drollery  of  his  attire;  but,  as  the  weather  was 
very  hot,  he  soon  began  to  find  himself  too  warm  and 
confined,  and  he  wished  to  lake  it  off  again.  He  moved 
his  arms — he  pulled  the  sleeves — he  twisted  and  turned 
himself  in  every  direction,  but  in  vain.  The  woollen 
jacket  was  an  admirable  illustration  of  the  Inferno  of 
Dante  and  Virgil,  and  of  matrimony,  as  described  by 
many  poets — it  was  easy  enough  to  get  into  it,  sed  revo- 
care  grudum  was  a difficult  matter  indeed.  The  old 
man  exerted  himself  till  the  drops  of  perspiration  fell 
from  his  forehead  ; but  had  I not  been  there  he  must 
either  have  made  some  person  cut  it  up,  or  have  sat  in 
it  until  this  minute. 

For  some  time  I enjoyed  this  scene  with  malicious 
and  demure  gravity,  and  then  I showed  him  that  he 
must  try  and  pull  it  off  over  his  head.  A lad  who  stood 
by  then  drew  it  till  it  enveloped  his  nose,  eyes,  mouth, 
and  ears ; his  arms  were  raised  above  his  head,  and  for 
some  minutes  he  remained  in  that  melancholy  plight, 
blinded,  choked,  and  smothered,  with  his  hands  rendered 
useless  for  the  time.  He  rolled  about,  sneezing,  sputter- 
ing, and  struggling,  until  all  around  were  convulsed  with 


284 


HIRING  A GUIDE. 


laughter ; arid  our  squaws  shrieked  in  their  ungoverna- 
ble mirth  in  a manner  that  I had  never  before  witnessed. 
At  length  I slit  a piece  of  the  edge,  and  released  the  old 
fellow  from  his  straight- waistcoat  confinement ; he  turn- 
ed it  round  often  in  his  hands,  and  made  a kind  of  comic- 
grave  address  to  it,  of  which  I could  only  gather  a few 
words.  I believe  the  import  of  them  was,  that  it  would 
be  a “ good  creature  in  the  ice-month  at  the  village.”  I 
was  so  pleased  with  his  good  humour,  that  T gave  it  to 
him,  and  told  him  to  warm  his  squaw  in  the  ice-month. 

We  afterwards  continued  our  bargain,  and  I bought  a 
horse  of  him  at  a tolerably  fair  price  ; but  I was  obliged 
to  sell  even  my  own  blankets,  which  I wished  to  sleep 
in  on  my  return,  and  had  but  a very  small  stock  of  pow- 
der, knives,  or  trinkets  remaining. 

I now  proceeded  to  hire  a guide  ; and  as  our  old  chief 
gave  me  to  understand  that  his  younger  brother  (the  same 
man  who  had  acted  as  guide  on  our  coming  out)  would 
conduct  me  to  the  fori,  I sent  for  the  interpreter,  and, 
accompanied  by  him,  went  to  this  man’s  lodge.  I found 
that  he  was  very  poor,  having  but  one  wife  and  only  two 
or  three  horses  ; and  though  I do  not  believe  that  he  much 
relished  the  office,  I made  an  agreement  with  him,  ac- 
cording to  which,  on  arriving  at  the  fort,  I was  to  give 
him  a horse  and  many  blankets, — in  short  a full  comple- 
ment of  all  the  articles  necessary  to  an  Indian’s  comfort. 
He  was  to  take  another  young  man  with  him,  who  was 
to  assist  us  to  hunt,  to  catch  and  pack  our  horses,  and 
perform  the  other  services  requisite  on  a march. 

After  waiting  half  the  day,  and  hearing  nothing  from 
the  great  chief  about  a horse,  I sent  the  Canadian  to  his 
lodge  to  ask  for  it;  when  he  returned  for  answer,  that 
he  must  have  both  the  telescope  and  pistol  before  he 
would  let  me  have  a horse;  I was  highly  incensed  at  the 
impudent  knavery  of  this  chief;  bull  thought  it  impru- 
dent to  quarrel  with  him,  as  we  were  so  far  removed  from 
the  protection  of  any  white  men,  and  were  in  the  great- 
est want  of  horses,  which  were  necessary  to  our  con- 
venience, and  might  be  so  to  our  lives,  in  our  passage 
across  an  immense  wilderness,  where  we  were  not  un- 
likely to  fall  in  with,  a war-parly  of  Sioux,  Shiennes, 


HUNTING  PARTY. 


285 


Aricaras,  or  other  wild  tribes  hostile  to  the  Pawnee 
escort.  Accordingly,  I dissembled  my  anger,  and  sent 
him  word  that  when  his  young  man  brought  ihe  horse  I 
would  give  him  the  pistol  also. 

About  this  time  I observed  a great  stir  in  the  camp, 
and  our  old  chief  wras  summoned  suddenly  to  a secret 
council ; what  passed  there  I know  not,  but  there  was  a 
hurried  and  violent  debate  ; the  decision,  however,  to 
which  they  came  was,  as  I afterwards  learned,  pacific. 
Very  soon  the  cause  of  this  excitement  became  generally 
known,  and  the  laconic  communication  “ men  are  seen,” 
passed  from  mouth  to  mouth.  These  few  words  have  a 
stirring  and  interesting  effect  in  those  remote  and  barren 
regions  ; and  the  conjectures  rapidly  succeed  each  other, 
“ Who,  and  what  are  the  comers  ? are  they  friends  or 
enemies  ? white  or  red  men  ?”  On  this  occasion  the 
doubt  was  soon  solved,  for  the  strangers,  who  now  ap- 
proached over  the  prairie,  and  who  had  long  ago  been 
discovered  and  announced  by  the  Pawnee  scouts,  came 
straight  to  the  lodge  of  the  great  chief,  and.  the  signs  of 
peace  having  been  before  exchanged  and  confirmed,  they 
sat  down  in  silence  and  awaited  the  meat  and  the  pipe 
about  to  be  offered  to  them.  They  proved  to  be  a hunt- 
ing party  of  Delawares  and  Shawnees,  on  their  way  to 
the  Rocky  Mountains  ; they  were  all  armed  with  knives 
and  guns,  and  their  dresses  were  as  fantastic  as  is  usual 
among  the  half-civilized  tribes. 

All  of  them  wore  leggins  and  moccasins  ; but  in  the 
clothing  of  the  upper  part  of  the  person,  each  seemed 
to  have  followed  his  own  wayward  humour ; one  wore  a 
hat,  another  a fur  cap,  a third  a handkerchief  wound 
like  a turban  ; and  a deer-skin  hunting-shirt  seemed  to 
be  the  favourite  covering  for  their  bodies  ; one  or  two  of 
them  could  speak  a few  words  of  English,  and  seemed 
to  be  known  to  Iotan,  the  Otoe  chief ; and,  by  the  assist- 
ance of  signs,  I could  make  out  that  they  had  come 
straight  from  Fort  Leavenworth,  (which  is  as  I be- 
fore noticed,)  only  thirty  miles  from  their  villages. 
They  had  seen  many  herds  of  buffalo,  but  had  hunted 
only  enough  to  supply  themselves  with  food,  as  they 
were  in  haste  to  get  to  the  mountains.  I asked  them  if 


286 


CONVERSATION. 


there  were  any  late  Indian  trails,  they  said  a few ; but 
the  Dah-cotah  (making  the  significant  Sioux  sign*)  were 
going  north,  I was  not  sorry  to  hear  this  intelligence, 
for  a war-party  of  Sioux  was  by  no  means  desirable  to 
meet,  while  I was  accompanied  by  a feeble  Pawnee 
escort.  I asked  how  many  days  it  had  taken  them  to 
ride  from  the  fort ; they  said  “ twenty-five.”  Having 
my  compass  in  my  pocket,  and  being  anxious  to  see  how 
far  my  idea  of  the  direction  of  the  fort  was  correct,  I 
asked  a young  Delaware  to  point  his  finger  to  it ; he  did 
so,  and  1 found  he  agreed  exactly  with  the  other  Indians 
whom  I had  consulted,  and  I took  my  bearings  accord- 

ingly- 

The  dislike  of  the  Pawnees  for  their  new  guests  was 
but  ill-concealed,  and  that  of  the  great  chief  was  so 
bitter  and  so  evident,  that  I could  not  help  thinking  it 
might  break  out  into  action.  The  Pawnees  consider 
these  corn-growing  settled  tribes  as  half-w hite  men,  and 
deny  their  right  to  hunt  in  the  buffalo  plains  and  moun- 
tains ; and  the  party  now  present  had  passed  through 
the  very  range  which  the  Pawnees  were  about  to  travel, 
and  had  probably  driven  off  many  of  4he  buffalo.  I am 
confident  that  they  had  saved  their  lives  by  their  bold- 
ness, in  coming  straight  to  the  camp  by  day  with  signs  of 
peace.  They  wished  to  pass  the  Pawnees  without  being 
discovered  by  them  ; but  finding  that  they  had  been  ob- 
served by  the  distant  scouts,  they  at  once  adopted  the 
safest,  though  apparently  the  rashest,  course,  by  present- 
ing themselves  peacefully  and  fearlessly  to  the  whole 
nation  : had  they  avoided  the  camp,  and  pursued  their 
course,  a Pawnee  war-party  would  have  probably  gone 
out  to  cut  them  off. 

The  Delawares,  degraded  in  spirit  and  diminished  in 
numbers  as  they  are,  have  yet  some  lingering  pride,  some 
remains  of  that  haughty  assumption  which  led  their  an- 
cestors to  call  themselves  the  “ Lenni  Lenupe ”t  and  to 
consider  all  other  Indians  as  mere  grafts  from  their  pa- 
rent stock.  One  of  those  now  present  was  a very  good- 

* Drawing  the  hand  across  the  throat  as  if  to  cut  it. 
f Anglice,  “ Fathers  of  men.” 


PRIDE  OF  THE  DELAWARES. 


287 


looking  young  man,  and  a son  of  a celebrated  Delaware 
warrior,  who  inflicted,  about  ten  years  ago,  a terrible  dis- 
grace upon  the  Pawnees.  He  was  returning  with  his 
packs  of  skins  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  with  only 
six  or  eight  in  his  company,  when  they  fell  in  with  a 
Pawnee  war-party,  consisting  of  sixty  or  seventy.  As 
the  latter  advanced  to  the  charge,  the  Delawares  hastily 
piled  their  packs  before  them,  and  being  armed  with 
guns,  presented  them,  and  awaited  the  attack  of  their 
enemies,  who  were  armed  only  with  their  bows  and  ar- 
rows and  war-clubs  ; the  latter  did  not  relish  too  near  an 
approach  to  the  shining  barrels,  and  kept  riding  round 
and  round  at  speed,  discharging  their  arrows  and  shout- 
ing and  yelling.  But  the  fate  of  one  or  two  who  ap- 
proached within  reach  of  a Delaware  bullet,  kept  the 
rest  at  a respectful  distance.  After  skirmishing  till  dusk, 
they  withdrew  for  a time,  determined  to  fall  upon  them 
during  their  march  ; but  so  admirably  did  the  Delaware 
make  his  dispositions,  that  after  killing  several  Pawnees, 
he  brought  his  little  band  into  the  settlements  without  the 
loss  of  a man. 

I amused  myself  for  two  or  three  hours  with  making 
glossaries  of  the  Delaware  and  Shawnee  languages, 
(which  I afterwards  compared  wilh  information  of  others 
of  the  same  tribes  ;)  the  former  of  them  is  very  soft  and 
musical,  the  latter  harsh  and  guttural.  After  trading  in 
some  few  articles  with  the  Pawnees,  they  left  us,  and 
pursued  their  course  toward  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


288 


INTERVIEW  WITH 


CHAPTER  XXL 

Interview  with  the  Great  Chief. — Telescope  regained. — Stock  of  Pro- 
visions for  the  Journey. — Indian  Knavery. — Disinterested  Genero- 
sity.— Exchange  of  Horses — Message  from  the  Great  Chief. — A 
“ Talk.’’ — Invitation  to  the  Great  Chief — Presents  made  to  him. — • 
"Want  of  Cleanliness  among  the  Pawnees — Splendid  Daybreak. — 
Valedictory  Speeches. — A vicious  Horse. — Journey  homeward  com- 
menced.— Herd  of  Buffalo. — Successful  Shot. — Evening  Camp. — 
Musquitqes. — Serious  Accident. — Defection  of  our  Guide. — Return 
to  the  Pawnees. — Repulsive  Scene. — Indian  Mourning. — Reception 
at  the  Lodge  of  Sa.-ni-tsa-rish. 

The  evening  of  the  6th  passed  away,  and  I heard  no 
tidings  of  my  horse  from  the  great  chief;  accordingly, 
early  on  the  following  morning  (7lh),  I despatched  a 
young  man  from  our  lodge  to  inquire  whether  he  meant 
to  send  me  one;  and,  if  he  disliked  the  bargain,  desired 
that  he  would  send  back  the  telescope.  The  lad  return- 
ed, shook  his  head,  and  made  a sign  that  the  great  chief 
said  nothing. 

Being  very  indignant  at  this  insolent  knavery,  I went 
strait  to  his  lodge,  and,  on  the  way,  cooled  down  my 
temper  as  well  as  I was  able,  being  aware  that  a little 
imprudence  might  cost  the  lives  of  myself  and  all  my 
party  ; but,  at  the  same  time,  that  if  I allowed  myself  to 
be  thus  cheated  and  imposed  upon,  I should  be  stripped 
of  everything  before  I left  the  camp.  1 found  the  chief 
sitting  in  ihe  customary  manner,  near  the  centre  of  his 
lodge,  sharpening  his  arrows.  Three  or  four  of  his 
young  men  were  idling  about,  and  two  ol  his  squaws, 
assisted  by  a captive  slave,*  were  cutting  up  and  spread- 
ing their  buffalo  meat  to  dry.  He  received  me  as  I ex- 
pected, with  extreme  coldness,  which  I pretended  not 
to  regard,  but  sat  quietly  down  in  the  place  to  which  he 
silently  motioned  me  with  his  hand. 

* A captive  taken  in  some  war-party  ; but  I could  not  learn  to  what 
tribe  she  belonged. 


THE  GREAT  CHIEF. 


289 


Perceiving,  after  a few  minutes,  that  he  would  not 
break  the  silence,  I told  him,  that  I had  come  to  ask  for 
the  horse  which  he  had  promised  for  the  telescope.  He 
gave  me  no  answer.  I then  proceeded  to  say,  that  “ he 
was  a great  chief,  and  had  a single  tongue,  and  that  I 
knew  he  would  not  lie  to  his  white  brother.”  Still  the 
same  sulky  look,  and  no  answer:  in  the  meantime,  I 
cast  my  eyes  carefully  round  the  interior  of  his  lodge, 
and,  at  length,  espied  my  telescope,  hanging  at  the  back 
of  it,  near  his  medicine-bag,  &c.  Having  ascertained 
its  locality,  I said,  I wished  to  return  to  the  white  man’s 
fort,  and  asked  him  distinctly,  whether  he  would  give  me 
the  horse  or  not  ? This  time  he  answered  briefly  and 
distinctly  enough,  ka-ki,  “ no”.  I then  rose,  and,  going 
straight  to  my  telescope,  took  it  quietly  down,  and,  hang- 
ing it  round  my  own  neck,  told  him  it  was  all  right,  or 
very  good,  and  walked  deliberately  away.  I confess  I felt 
rather  uneasy  at  this  juncture.  The  chief  neither  mov- 
ed nor  spoke,  and  yet  the  muscles  of  his  face  were  work- 
ing with  ill-concealed  passion;  and  I thought  it  just  pos- 
sible that  he  would  not  be  able  to  restrain  his  hand  from 
seizing  bow  or  tomahawk.  However,  I reached  Sa-m- 
tsa-rish’s  lodge  without  interruption,  and  the  old  man 
asked  me  if  I had  got  the  horse.  I told  him  I had  not ; 
but  I showed  him  the  telescope.  He  evinced  momen- 
tary surprise,  and  asked  me  if  the  chief  had  given  it  me. 
I answered  him  by  a sign,  showing  how  I had  taken  it. 
Ho  shook  his  head,  and  remained  silent. 

I now  began  to  lay  in  my  stock  of  provisions  for  the 
journey,  and,  in  exchange  for  a few  beads,  knives,  and 
looking-glasses,  obtained  from  the  squaws  two  packs  of 
well-dried  meat,  weighing  about  twenty-five  pounds 
each,  and  a bag  of  Indian  corn.  I had  also  a few  dried 
beans,  which  I had  brought  from  the  fort. 

Having  communicated  to  my  companion  V my 

failure  in  obtaining  the  horse  from  the  great  chief,  and 
finding  that  he  had  as  little  prospect  of  getting  one  from 
his  ill-tempered  and  avaricious  host,  Pa^-tae-la^-cha’rd 
(although  he  had  twenty  or  twenty-five),*  we  determin- 

* The  name  of  this  chief  is  classic  throughout  the  whole  western  world, 

Vol.  I. — Bb 


290 


GENEROSITY. 


ed  upon  putting  together  all  our  remaining  stock  of 
spare  powder,  lead,  and  baubles,  in  order  to  purchase 
one  more  pack-horse,  or  mule.  We  did  so,  and  spread 
the  heap  before  my  old  chief’s  lodge.  He  looked  at  it, 
shook  his  head,  and  said,  that  “ no  one  would  give  us  a 
horse  for  it,  for  there  was  no  cloth.”  He  then  desired 
his  oldest  wife  to  bring  out  from  one  of  his  bales  a large 
piece  of  scarlet  cloth,  and  to  add  it  to  my  heap  ; and  he 
said  “ Now  call  the  men  ; you  will  get  a horse.” 

An  Indian  soon  arrived,  leading  a sorry-looking  ani- 
mal, but  tolerably  sound  and  strong.  After  examining 
the  articles,  he  said  they  were  good,  and  made  the 
sign  that  he  would  trade.  I directed  my  servant  to  roll 
them  up  for  him,  and  a young  man  to  tie  the  horse,  when 
the  Indian  spirit  of  knavery  again  broke  forth,  and  the 
fellow  said,  that  there  was  not  enough ; he  must  have 
another  knife.  I had  already  given  all  that  I could  afford, 
as  we  had  retained'only  one  a-piece  for  the  journey  ; and 
I sat  a moment  in  silent  vexation  : for  I knew  that  to 
dispute  was  useless,  even  if  I could  have  commanded 
words  ; and  to  give,  I had  nothing.  Sa-m-tsa-rish  here 
slowly  arose,  and,  taking  from  his  belt  his  own  large  or- 
namented knife,  threw  it  upon  the  heap  of  goods,  and, 
with  a haughty  and  indignant  air,  said,  “ Take  it  and 
go  /”  then  quietly  resumed  his  seat. 

as  being  the  first  who  dared  to  set  at  defiance  the  prejudices  of  his  na- 
tion, and,  when  only  twenty  years  of  age,  to  rescue  a female  captive  from 
the  cruel  death  to  which  she  was  destined.  The  story  is  familiar  to  all 
who  have  paid  any  attention  to  the  recent  history  of  the  Indian  tribes ; 
but  it  is  so  admirably  related  by  Major  Long,  that  I shall  make  no  apology 
for  extracting  it  at  length.  (See  Appendix.)  I never  saw  Major  Long’s 
work  until  some  time  after  my  return  from  the  Pawnees,  and  I feel  very 
uncertain  whether  the  Pa6-tae-lae-cha’rd  described  by  him  is,  or  is  not, 

the  chief  of  the  same  name  in  whose  lodge  my  companion  V resided. 

The  latter  appeared  to  me  about  thirty-eight  years  of  age  ; and,  as  Major 
Long  saw  the  young  chief  in  1819,  and  supposed  him  then  to  be  about 
twenty-three,  my  calculation  would  be  near  the  truth.  In  figure,  strength, 
and  influence,  he  would  fully  answer  the  Major’s  description  ; while  the 
sixteen  years  that  had  passed  over  his  head  might  easily  have  changed 
the  daring  high-spirited  youth  to  the  crafty  ambitious  chief.  At  the  same 
time,  there  is  so  much  uncertainty  about  Indian  names,  that  I must  con- 
fess my  inability  to  decide  this  question,  especially  as  I was  given  to  un- 
derstand by  Sd-ni-tsa-rish,  that  several  chiefs  had  borne  the  name  of  Pae. 
tae-la6-cha’r6.  I have  described  merely  what  I saw,  and  must  leave  tha 
evolution  of  this  mystery  to  the  Pawnee  heralds  and  biographers, 


EXCHANGE  OF  HORSES. 


291 


During  all  my  residence  with  the  Indians,  I had  not 
witnessed  an  action  so  disinterested  and  generous  per- 
formed with  such  majestic  grace  and  dignity.  While  the 
abashed  dealer  sneaked  off  with  his  bundle,  I took  the 
old  chief  by  the  hand,  and  said,  “ My  father,  you  are  a 
good  man and,  clenching  my  hand,  pressed  it  against 
my  breast,  in  token  of  my  affection.  He  remained  silent, 
and  his  features  now  resumed  their  usual  quiet  and  grave 
character.  Meantime,  I formed  a resolution  that,  if  I 
again  reached  the  fort,  I would  send  him  such  a present, 
that  he  should  never  repent  the  day  when  he  had  been 
so  friendly  and  generous  to  his  white  guest. 

I was  now  provided- with  horses  and  provisions  suffi- 
cient to  give  us  a reasonable  chance  of  reaching  the  fort 
without  privation  or  difficulty.  The  only  thing  that  an- 
noyed me  was,  that  my  companion,  V , had,  without 

(or  rather,  contrary  to)  my  advice,  exchanged  a quiet  and 
safe  gray  pony,  which  I had  bought  for  him  in  Missouri, 
for  a wild  animal,  belonging  to  an  [ndian.  The  former 
had  travelled  many  hundred  miles  without  a fault  or  false 
step  ; but  he  fancied  it  was  not  strong  enough,  and 
changed  it  for  a Pawnee  animal,  which  I remembered 
to  have  noticed  on  some  of  our  marches,  as  it  wras  of  a 
remarkable  colour,  and  wras  always  rearing,  kicking,  and 

breaking  loose'.  As  V was  not  a very  good  horse' 

man,  I endeavoured  to  dissuade  him  from  this  bargain  ; 
but  he  determined  to  adhere  to  it. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  I received  a message  from  the 
great  chief,  desiring  that  I would  come  to  his  lodge  to 
have  a talk.  As  I did  not  know  what  explanations  might 
be  requisite,  I sent  for  the  Canadian,  and  requested  him 
to  accompany  me.  On  arriving,  I found  that  the  chiefs 
of  the  Tapage  and  Republican  bands  had  also  been  sum- 
moned. Several  of  the  braves  were  present,  and  the 
countenance  of  the  great  chief  had  gained  nothing  in 
good-humour  since  the  morning. 

As  soon  as  the  pipe  had  been  circulated,  he  made  a 
speech  of  some  length,  the  purport  of  which  was,  that 
I proposed  to  “ go  back  to  white  men  through  the  prai- 
rie, but  that  I ought  to  go  with  them  to  their  winter  vil- 
lage, and  return  thence  by  the  great  trail.”  I told  him 


292 


A “TALK.” 

that  “ we  must  return  straight ; that  our  fathers  and  bro- 
thers were  far  ; that  they  looked  for  us  ; and  that  if  we 
stayed,  our  corn  would  be  spoiled.” 

The  Republican  chief  made  a speech,  and  said,  that 
“ it  was  bad  for  me  to  go  with  so  few  young  men  ; that 
there  were' bad  men,  and  no  friends,  hunting  in  the  prai- 
ries and  concluded  by  saying,  that  I had  better  go  with 
the  Pawnees  to  their  winter  village.  I answered  him, 
through  the  interpreter,  that  “ I knew  he  had  a single 
tongue,  and  spoke  truth  ; that  my  ears  were  open  ; but 
that  I could  go  through  the  prairie  without  fear  with  my 
young  men  : that  my  rifle  (on  which  I was  leaning)  would 
kill  bad  men  far  off ; and  that,  if  they  killed  me,  my 
grandfather  (the  President)  would  punish  them.” 

The  Tapage  sat  silent,  but  the  great  chief  rose  again, 
and  exclaimed  (at  least  so  it  was  translated  to  me  by  the 
Canadian,  for  he  spoke  in  so  excited  and  hurried  a tone 
that  I could  catch  few,  if  any,  of  the  words) : “ My  fa- 
ther, you  have  not  ears  : if  you  go  in  that  direction” 
(pointing  east  by  north)  “ you  will  drive  the  cows  from 
our  path  ; you  will  spoil  our  winter  food.  It  is  not  good  ; 
you  must  stay,  and  not  go.  I have  said.”  By  my  de- 
sire, the  Canadian  answered  the  great  chief : — “ You  and 
your  brothers  have  been  good  to  me.  We  have  eaten, 
slept,  hunted,  and  smoked  the  pipe  together.  My  ears  are 
open.  I will  not  drive  one  cow  from  your  path.  Point 
with  your  finger  to  the  Pawnee  path,  and  I will  go  home 
a day’s  journey  to  the  right  or  the  left  of  it.  But  I will 
not  stay.  You  are  a great  chief,  and  go  where  you  please. 
I am  also  a white  chief ; I am  not  a squaw  nor  a captive. 
I go  to-morrow  straight  back  to  our  grandfather ; and  I 
wish  to  tell  him,  and  your  father  (Major  Dogherty),  how 
good  to  me  his  Pawnee  children  are.  I have  spoken.” 

The  chiefs  looked  at  each  other  for  a moment  in  si- 
lence ; and  I thought  that  more  angry  discussion  should 
be  avoided  ; so  I arose  and  walked  slowly  back  to  my 
lodge.  I tried  to  explain  to  Sa-m-tsa-rish  what  had  pass- 
ed. He  shook  his  head,  and  made  no  remarks.  It  is 

remarkable,  that  neither  Y nor  our  white  attendants 

were  summoned  to  this  “talk,”  nor  to  the  “great  medi- 
cine” feast  already  described. 


PRESENTS  TO  THE  GREAT  CHIEF. 


293 


In  two  hours  I wished  to  avoid  the  inconvenience  and 
risk  of  parting  from  the  great  chief  in  open  hostility,  so 
I sent  to  invite  him  to  a feast.  To  my  surprise  he  came  ; 
and,  after  the  meat  and  pipe,  I made  him  a present  of 
some  wampum,  and  a gay-looking  cotton  handkerchief ; 
besides  which,  I gave  him  eight  new  spare  horse-shoes, 
which  I had  brought  with  me  in  case  of  accidents.  They 
were  useless,  and  very  troublesome  to  carry  : had  they 
been  good  for  anything,  I would  have  given  them  to  my 
old  host;  but  to  the  chief  I only  gave  them  to  get  rid  of 
them,  f thought  that  the  cunning  savage  appreciated 
more  correctly  than  I could  wish  the  value  of  this  pre- 
sent ; but  he  received  it  with  becoming  gravity.  Soon 
afterward  he  asked  me  for  some  coffee  and  sugar.  I 
had  a very  small  quantity  of  these  in  my  bag,  and  I did 
not  know  to  what  straits  I might  be  reduced,  and  I de- 
clined to  give  him  any,  saying,  in  the  usual  Indian  way, 
“ I have  got  none  !”  He  soon  rose  and  went  away  ; and 
our  parting  was  not  affectionate  on  either  side.  I was 
glad  that  lie  had  feasted  with  me,  and  taken  my  presents 
after  our  talk;  because  he  could  not,  according  to  their 
customs,  after  so  doing,  order  me  to  be  interrupted  or 
waylaid  in  my  route. 

On  the  night  of  the  7th  I scarcely  slept  at  all,  so  ex-, 
cited  was  I at  the  prospect  of  our  prairie  journey,  and,  I 
may  add,  so  delighted  at  exchanging,  even  for  greater 
hardships,  the  confinement,  the  vermin,  and  the  dirt  of 
the  Pawnee  lodges. 

It  is  not  a pleasant  thing  to  comment  upon  nastiness 
of  any  kind  ; but  a few  trifles,  of  daily  occurrence,  may 
be  necessary  to  rescue  my  companion  and  myself  from 
the  charge  of  caprice.  Imprimis  : every  article  within 
the  lodge,  including  my  own  skins,  jacket,  and  shirt,  was 
covered  with  vermin.  These  insects  are,  as  is  well 
known,  of  two  species  ; the  one  frequenting  the  hair,  the- 
ether  the  body.  The  former  of  these  are  considered  by 
the  Pawnee  naturalists  “ Pediculus  esculentus ;”  for 
whenever  the  squaws  are  unemployed  in  severer  labour, 
they  enjoy  a feast  of  this  kind,  gathered  either  from  the 
hair  of  their  children  or  of  each  other.  For  many  suc- 
cessive weeks  I have  observed  them  pass  from  half  an 

Bb* 


294 


WANT  OF  CLEANLINESS. 


hour  to  an  hour  of  every  day  in  this  manner,  and  they 
really  seem  to  eat  this  filthy  vermin  with  no  small  satis- 
faction ; but  I have  been  told  by  traders,  that  they  will 
not  eat  them  from  the  heads  of  the  whites  ! 

Another  circumstance  that  used  to  annoy  me  very  much, 
was,  that  the  water,  which  was  frequently  bad  enough  as 
brought  by  the  squaws  from  the  stream  or  pond,  was 
placed  generally  near  the  opening  of  the  lodge,  where  it 
was  a perpetual  plaything  for  all  the  children  ; one  would 
dabble  his  hands  in  it,  another  dip  his  or  her  dirty  face 
into  the  vessel  to  drink,  while  the  hair  was  floating  over 
its  surface ; and  now  and  then  a cur,  more  sly  or  bold 
than  the  rest,  would  sneak  round  and  get  a drink,  until 
the  indignant  squaw,  who  had  carried  it  perhaps  two  or 
three  hundred  yards,  might  become  aware  of  his  lapping, 
when  the  first  weapon  within  reach,  whether  bone,  stick, 
stone,  or  tomahawk,  was  launched  at  the  intruder’s  head, 
with  a shrieking  exclamation,  which  can  only  be  written 
as  follows,  it  being  remembered  in  pronunciation  that  the 
rr  must  be  burred  as  strongly  as  possible  : “ t’s — t’st — 
urr-r-r-r-r-r  a-sa-ki”  (which  last  is  the  Pawnee  word  for 
dog).  All  the  preceding  particulars  regarding  the  water 
are  well  enough,  until  it  is  mentioned  that  I was  destined 
to  di  ink  it.  Indeed,  I may  say,  I found  that  all  the  ac- 
cidental and  occasional  hardships  of  Indian  life  in  the 
country,  such  as  scarcity  of  food  or  water,  long  marches 
in  oppressive  heat,  sleeping  in  cold  or  wet  places — all 
these  I found  more  tolerable  than  the  filth  that  was  hourly 
before  my  eyes,  and  in  which  I was  obliged  to  live. 

The  only  persons  in  the  camp  whom  I could  view 
with  any  feelings  of  regard  were  my  old  chief  and  his 
good-humoured,  though  unattractive  wives  and  daughters, 
among  whom  I distributed  before  I left  them  all  the  tri- 
fles and  trinkets  which  my  horse-dealing  enabled  me  to 
spare.  As  a good  omen  for  our  journey,  the  morn  of  the 
8th  dawned  with  a magnificence  more  glorious  than  ever 
I had  seen  on  the  great  Atlantic  ; the  undulating  outline 
of  the  eastern  hills  was  robed  in  a gorgeous  mass  of 
saffron,  surmounted  by  a wide  extent  of  amber,  resem- 
bling the  tints  sometimes  seen  on  the  cheek  of  a peach  ; 
and  above  that  again  night  was  slowly  receding  behind  a 


VALEDICTORY  SPEECHES. 


295 


curtain  of  the  softest  rosy  hue,  from  the  centre  of  which 
the  lingering  planet  of  morning  looked  out  like  an  eye. 

Soon  after  daybreak  we  had  packed  our  skins  and  pro- 
visions on  two  horses.  One  was  led  by  the  guide  ; and 
all  was  ready  for  our  departure.  Our  old  chief  made 
me  a speech,  in  which  he  seemed  much  affected.  He 
said  : “ My  father,  you  have  -been  too  short  time  with 
us  ; but  your  squaws  and  your  white  brothers  want  you. 
Go,  my  father.  Your  tongue  is  single;  your  ears  are 
open.  You  are  a chief ; go,  and  tell  our  grandfather  that 
Sa-m-tsa-rish  is  a brother  to  his  children.” 

To  this  speech  I made  a suitable  reply,  through  the 
Canadian,  telling  him  that  “ he  was  indeed  a good  man, 
and  that  when  I reached  the  white  man’s  dwelling,  I would 
speak  truth  of  him  to  his  father  and  his  grandfather  ; and 
when  his  young  men  returned,  their  hands  should  not  be 
empty,  but  all  the  Pawnees  should  know  that  the  white 
chief  loved  Sa-m-tsa-rish.”*  I then  embraced  him,  shook 
hands  with  the  squaws,  as  well  as  with  his  children,  to 
whom  I had  given  presents  according  to  their  ages,  and 
prepared  to  mount,  as  the  attendants  were  already  on 
horseback. 

A scene  now  commenced,  the  termination  of  which 

was  serious  and  unpleasant.  My  companion  V ’s 

Pawnee  horse  was  brought  up  to  him  by  an  Indian, 
leading  it  with  a strong  laryette  ; but,  as  soon  as  he  ap- 
proached, the  animal  snorted,  reared,  kicked,  and  showed 
every  sign  of  spite  and  anger.  If  he  came  near  it  in 
front,  it  would  run  at  him  with  its  teeth,  and  if  behind, 
lashed  the  air  with  a pair  of  very  active  heels.  Not  be- 
ing a practised  horseman,  Y could  not  creep  behind 

the  animal  and  spring  on  it,  or  perform  any  similar 
equestrian  manoeuvre ; and  I,  having  already  mounted 
my  roan,  could  see  that  the  Indians  weie  beginning  to 
make  signs  to  each  other,  and  to  laugh  at  our  predica- 
ment. 

Knowing  how  dangerous  it  is  among  this  people  to 
allow  yourself  to  be  a subject  of  ridicule,  I told  V 

* I need  scarcely  inform  the  reader,  that  I fulfilled  this  promise  as 
soon  as  I reached  the  settlements.  I sent  the  old  chief,  through  the 
Indian  agent,  a supply  of  knives,  tobacco,  cloth,  beaus,  and  blankets* 


£96 


JOURNEY  HOMEWARD 


to  ride  my  horse,  and  I would  see  what  I could  make  of 
his  wild  beast.  Accordingly,  I took  my  cudgel  in  my 
hand  and  walked  toward  him  in  front,  telling  the  Indian 
by  signs  to  hold  on  to  the  laryette.  As  I approached, 

he  snuffed  and  snorted  as  he  had  done  to  V ; and 

when  he  thought  I was  near  enough,  jumped  forward  to 
seize  me  with  his  teeth ; but  I saluted  him  with  a heavy 
blow  on  the  head  with  my  cudgel,  and  finding  that  it 
checked  him,  I repeated  the  application.  He  appeared 
stunned  and  stupified  for  a moment,  so  I jumped  on  him, 
and,  telling  the  Indian  to  let  go,  gave  the  word  to  march. 
For  the  first  few  minutes  I continued  to  belabour  my 
unruly  steed  with  the  cudgel,  accompanying  every  blow 
with  a loud  rough  ejaculation,  in  order  that  he  might 
learn  to  know  my  voice.  Before  I had  long  treated  his 
ribs  to  the  same  wholesome  discipline  which  his  head 
had  undergone,  he  appeared  to  be  quite  humbled  and 
docile,  so  I rode  quietly  on  with  the  party ; and  when- 
ever he  showed  symptoms  of  resuming  his  pranks,  I only 
had  to  call  to  him  in  the  same  tone  as  before,  and  he 
returned  to  a sense  of  duty. 

With  what  light  hearts  did  we  now  take  our  way  across, 
the  prairie  with  our  faces  to  the  east,  considering  as  our 
resting-place  and  home  that  Fort  Leavenworth  which, 
six  months  before,  I should  have  deemed,  and  which 
many  now  deem,  the  “ ultima  Thule of  the  inhabitable 
world  ! Thus  are  all  the  objects  in  life  coloured  by  the  cir- 
cumstances which  form  the  medium  through  which  they 
are  viewed  ; and  thus,  in  an  analogous  instance,  the  dry 
brown  loaf  and  pitcher  of  buttermilk,  which  the  poorest 
British  labourer  dines  upon  at  mid-day  under  a hedge,  or 
the  rations  of  any  culprit  in  jail,  would  often  (during  the 
last  few  weeks)  have  been  to  us  a most  delicious  ban- 
quet. 

Inspired  by  these  thoughts,  I marched  by  the  side  of 
our  guide,  and  endeavoured  to  improve  my  scanty  stock 
of  the  Pawnee  language.  I observed  that  he  took  a 
course  nearly  parallel,  but  bearing  rather  northward,  of 
that  of  the  “ village,”  and  he  gave  me  to  understand  that 
he  did  so  by  the  orders  of  the  great  chief.  I made  no 
objection,  knowing  that  a score  of  miles,  more  or  less,  in. 


HERD  OF  BUFFALOES. 


297 


such  a journey  as  we  had  before  us,  could  be  of  little 
importance. 

After  travelling  between  twenty  and  thirty  miles  (east 
north-east,  by  compass),  we  halted  for  an  hour  or  two, 
to  bait  our  horses,  on  the  brink  of  a small  stream,  which 
flowed  gently  down  a sheltered  ravine,  opened  our  pro- 
vision packs,  and  were  proceeding  to  eat  our  mid-day 
meal,  when  we  saw  a small  herd  of  buffalo  gallopping  furi- 
ously along,  at  a distance,  having  been  evidently  startled 
by  some  outskirters  among  the  Pawnee  hunters,  who  were 
some  miles  to  the  south  of  us.  Observing  them  closely, 
we  soon  became  aware  that  they  did  not  see  us  ; and  I 
determined  to  try  and  give  our  two  Indians  a high  idea 
of  my  skill  in  woodcraft, — so  I caught  up  my  rifle,  made 
signs  to  all  the  party  to  remain  perfectly  still,  and  crept 
rapidly  along  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  to  meet  them  at 
the  point  where  I thought  they  would  cross  it. 

I was  on  foot,  and  of  course  there  was  some  danger  in 
the  experiment ; but  I could  not  afford  to  tire  my  faithful 
roan,  by  gallopping  her  while  on  a long  march.  Raising 
my  head  cautiously  and  at  intervals,  I could  see  the  small 
herd  of  buffalo  bounding  along  after  their  ungainly  fash- 
ion, and  evidently  making  for  a kind  of  gap  or  break  in 
the  ravine,  a few  hundred  yards  ahead.  Increasing  my 
speed,  I was  enabled  to  lie  down,  about  seventy  or  eighty 
yards  from  their  crossing-place,  just  as  the  leader  plunged 
into  the  defile.  Allowing  two  or  three  scraggy  ill-look- 
ing animals  to  pass  unnoticed,  I at  last  saw  a fine  fat 
young  cow  enter  the  pass.  I let  her  descend,  and  re- 
served my  fire  till  she  should  begin  to  mount  the  oppo- 
site “ brae.”  When  she  was  about  mid-way  up,  I fired 
with  deliberate  aim,  and  heard  that  welcome  crack , which 
tells  to  a sportsman’s  ear  that  his  bullet  has  found  its 
mark.  However,  I remained  still,  and  she  continued  her 
course.  At  length,  I observed  that  the  rest  gallopped 
on,  and  she  lagged  behind.  I then  gave  chace  : before 
I came  up  she  had  staggered  and  fallen ; and  on  reach- 
ing the  spot,  I found  that  the  ball  had  pierced  her  heart. 
I now  returned  to  my  companions,  and,  shouting  to  them 
to  bring  the  two  pack-horses,  in  a few  minutes  we  had 
more  fat  meat  slung  across  them  than  I could  permit 


298 


EVENING  CAMP. 


them  lo  be  loaded  withal  on  the  journey.  I was  proud 
of  this  shot,  and  I could  see  that  the  Indians  exchanged 
looks  of  surprise  and  admiration  when  they  saw  the  fear- 
ful rent  which  my  ounce-ball  had  made  in  the  buffalo’s 
heart. 

We  made  a short  and  merry  feast,  and  slung  enough 
meat  to  last  for  one  or  two  days.  We  then  pursued  our 
course  till  dusk.  The  wild  horse  required  a little  disci- 
pline of  the  cudgel  by  the  way  ; but  I now  found  that 
merely  shaking  it  near  his  head,  and  calling  to  him  at 
the  same  time,  was  sufficient  to  quiet  him.  We  camped' 
for  the  evening  ori  the  brink  of  a streamlet,  having  made 
about  thirty  miles,  east-north-east.  Here  we  were  both 
surprised  and  annoyed  at  finding  a number  of  musqui- 
toes  and  horse-flies,  a nuisance  from  which  we  had  been 
so  long  free ; and  on  applying  to  the  Indian,  he  told  me 
that  the  “ a-shats”  (musquito)  never  came  within  reach 
of  their  village  or  camp.  Whether  this  be  owing  to  the 
number  of  fires,  or  peculiar  smell  exhaled  by  the  skins 
and  grease  which  they  use,  I know  not ; but  I had  the 
means  afterwards  of  ascertaining  the  fact. 

9th. — This  day  was  the  most  unfortunate  which  we 
had  hitherto  experienced.  Having,  as  I thought,  suffi- 
ciently subdued  the  vicious  horse,  I had  given  it  back  to 

V , and  was  again  mounted  on  my  own.  While 

riding  in  front  with  the  guide,  I heard  a noise  behind  me, 
and  turning  round  saw  him  on  the  ground,  and  the  brute 
plunging  about  him  and  upon  him.  Gallopping  back  at 
full  speed,  T shouted  as  I rode  up  to  this  wild  beast,  and 
he  went  off  loose  over  the  prairie.  Hastily  directing 
the  second  Indian  to  watch,  follow,  and  catch  him,  I 

stooped  down  over  V , whom  I found  speechless, 

and  almost  without  sense  or  motion.  Fortunately  there 
was  a stream  and  a tree  not  far  off:  we  carried  him 
thither,  and  placing  him  under  the  latter,  began  to  use 
all  the  means  in  our  power  to  restore  suspended  anima- 
tion. At  length,  to  my  anxious  inquiries  as  to  where  he 
felt  the  severe  pain  or  hurt,  he  answered  by  indicating 
his  breast  and  ribs.  All  our  stock  of  medicine  was  in- 
cluded in  one  bottle  of  brandy,  which  I had  carefully 
reserved  in  case  of  violent  dysentery  or  accidents,  l 


SERIOUS  ACCIDENT. 


299 


now  opened  it ; we  began  to  chafe  his  body,  and  soon 
had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  him  fully  restored  to  the 
powers  of  consciousness  and  respiration  ; but  he  suffered 
much  pain,  his  breast  was  bruised  severely,  he  thought 
two  or  three  ribs  were  broken,  and  his  left  arm  was  so 
severely  hurt  that  he  could  not  move  or  raise  it. 

' I do  not  know  that  ever  I spent  so  anxious  an  hour; 
for  the  thought  occurred  to  me  that  if  he  had  received 
Contusions  affecting  either  the  lungs  or  the  intestines,  he 
might  die  for  want  of  surgical  assistance.  I looked  at 
my  roan,  and  for  some  minutes  thought  of  leaving  him 
with  the  rest  of  the  party,  and  taking  a little  dried  buffalo 
meat,  of  riding  alone,  as  fast  as  she  could  carry  me,  to 
the  fort,  to  ask  for  a surgeon  and  two  or  three  soldiers 
to  assist  in  transporting  him.  Then  I remembered  the 
length  of  the  journey,  the  probability  that  I might  fail  in 
returning  to  the  exact  spot,  and  the  time  that  must  neces- 
sarily elapse  before  I could  return,  which  rendered  it 
probable  that  before  then  he  must  be  either  dead  or  con- 
valescent; so  I determined  to  remain  with  him,  and 
endeavour  to  play  the  part  of  surgeon  as  well  as  our 
slender  means  would  permit.  Accordingly,  I ordered 
some  buffalo  broth  to  be  made,  and  in  the  meantime 
continued  the  brandy  embrocation  both  to  the  arm  and 
the  body  ; wre  made  him  as  soft  a bed  as  we  could 
ftwdth  our  skins,  and  left  much  to  the  care  of  dame 
Nature  ; a nurse  wdio,  when  unthwarted  by  folly  and 
quackery,  is  one  of  the  most  efficient  of  the  restorers 
of  health.  Meantime  the  Indian  lad  returned,  leading 
the  author  of  all  this  evil ; and  as  I looked  at  his 
malignant  eye  and  his  flapping  sulky  ears,  I internally 
resolved  to  take  him  under  my  own  particular  care,  to 
load  him  and  cudgel  him  to  his  heart’s  content,  as  soon 
I as  we  might  be  able  to  resume  a journey  which  had  been 
interrupted  by  his  savage  vice. 

Upon  inquiring  into  the  origin  of  the  accident,  I 

learned  that  he  had  begun  to  jump  a little  ; V had 

tried  to  soothe  and  coax  him  : as  soon  as  he  discovered 
; this  change  in  the  system  of  government,  he  reared  and 
plunged  more  violently  and  threw  his  rider — who  was,  as 
I before  remarked,  not  a very  practised  horseman.  All 


300  return  to  the  pawnees. 

this  I could  have  forgiven  him  ; but  the  jumping  about 

V  , arid  kicking  at  him  while  on  the  ground,  I deter- 

mined to  requite  upon  the  first  opportunity.  At  present 
I only  hobbled  and  tied  him  fast,  in  which  operation  a 
few  hints  both  from  my  voice  and  cudgel  were  neces- 
sary. 

At  mid-day,  I found  with  great  satisfaction,  that  a few 
hours’  rest,  together  with  the  brandy  embrocation,  had 

very  much  allayed  the  pain  and  inflammation  of  V ’s 

hurts.  Neither  the  arm  nor  ribs  proved  to  be  broken; 
but  the  former  was  so  contused  as  to  be  without  use  or 
motion.  At  this  time,  the  Indian  coming  up  to  me,  said 
that  “ the  Great  Spirit  was  against  our  going — that  this 
sign,  or  omen,  was  not  good — that  it  was  against  his 
medicine  to  guide  us ; and  he  must  strike  to  the  south, 
to  the  Pawnee  trail,  and  rejoin  them.” 

It  is  never  any  use  to  argue  a question' with  an  Indian  : 
this  man,  though  an  excellent  guide  and  runner,  was 
neither  a hunter,  nor  a warrior ; and  he  probably  did  not 
much  like  crossing  with  so  small  a company  a wide 
extent  of  wilderness,  where  we  were  so  liable  to  fall  in 
with  war-parlies  from  other  tribes.  I consulted  my 
companions,  and  we  all  agreed  that  it  would  be  foolish 
rashness  to  endeavour  to  find  our  way  to  the  settlements 
without  a guide,  and  with  one  of  our  small  party  com- 
pletely crippled  and  inefficient.  Indeed  I thought  that 

V  might  require  the  assistance  and  rough  nursing  of 

the  Indians  before  he  would  be  able  to  undergo  the 
fatigue  of  so  long  a journey ; we,  therefore,  agreed  to 
go  back  to  the  Pawnees,  although,  I believe,  we  were 
all  so  heartily  tired  of  them,  that  we  would  have  done 
anything  consistent  with  common  sense  to  avoid  being 
again  with  them.  However,  there  was  no  remedy;  and 
we  struck  off  at  an  easy  and  gentle  rate,  south-south- 
east. I took  charge  of  the  wild  horse,  for  he  would  not 
permit  either  of  my  attendants  to  come  near  him  ; and  I 
placed  upon  him  the  heaviest  pair  of  saddle-bags  which 

we  possessed,  beside  my  own  person,  while  V rode 

my  gentle  roan. 

We  camped  in  the  evening  without  accident,  and  V 

seemed  to  recover  from  his  bodily  bruises ; but  the  arm 


REPULSIVE  SCENE. 


301 


remained  powerless.  His  steed  gave  us  here  another 
specimen  of  his  amiable  nature,  i had  tied  him  by  the 
laryette  to  a stump  to  keep  him  quiet,  while  we  unpack- 
ed the  other  animals  ; and,  in  arrangingthe  baggage,  my 
servant  walked  unguardedly,  with  a pair  of  saddle-bags 
over  his  arm,  too  near  the  place  where  he  was  apparent- 
ly feeding  ; but  he  was  only  watching  an  opportunity  for 
mischief;  for  he  backed  suddenly,  and  kicked  with  both 
heels  and  all  his  force  at  poor  John,  who  had  a narrow 
escape;  for  the  saddle-bags  were  sent  some  yards  from 
him,  and  he  himself  nearly  knocked  over,  whether  by 
surprise  and  alarm,  or  by  the  horse’s  hoofs,  I know  not. 
However,  there  could  be  no  satisfaction  in  travelling  in 
company  with  such  a sly  brute,  and  I determined  to  ex- 
change him  for  anything  I could  get  when  we  overlook 
the  village. 

About  ten  o’clock  on  the  following  day  we  found  the 
great  Pawnee  trail,  and,  following  it,  came  at  mid-day  to 
the  place  where  they  had  camped  the  night  before,  and  a 
most  hideous  spectacle  did  it  present : the  grass  was  all 
trodden  into  mud — hundreds  of  circular  heaps  of  charred 
wood  attested  the  number  of  fires  that  had  been  used  ; 
and  the  whole  plain  was  strewed  with  split  heads,  bare 
skeletons,  arid  scattered  entrails  of  buffalo;  while  some 
hundreds  of  the  half-starved  Pawnee  dogs,  who  had  linger- 
ed behind  the  village,  were  endeavouring  to  dispute  some 
morsels  of  the  carcasses  with  the  gaunt  snarling  wolves, 
who  were  stripping  the  scanty  relics  of  skin  and  sinew 
which  are  left  by  Indian  butchery  attached  to  the  bone. 
So  intent  were  these  last  upon  their  filthy  meal,  that  they 
allowed  me  to  ride  close  up  to  them  without  leaving  it; 
and  I could  have  shot  half  a dozen  of  them  with  a 
pocket-pistol.  The  desolation  of  the  scene  was  rather 
increased  than  diminished  by  two  small  circular  lodges, 
the  apertures  to  which  were  closed,  and  from  which  pro- 
ceeded the  low  wailing  chant  of  Indian  mourning. 

This  I observed  to  be  a common  custom  among  the 
Pawnees.  After  the  rest  of  the  village  had  been  for  se- 
veral hours  on  the  march,  a mourning  family  would  re- 
main behind  and  sing  this  melancholy  kind  of  dirge.  I 
should  think  that  it  must  be  a very  dangerous  mode  of 

Vol.  I.— Cc 


302 


INDIAN  MOURNING. 


lamentation  while  in  these  remote  excursions ; because, 
if  any  hostile  war-parly  was  hovering  ori  the  Pawnee 
trail,  they  would  inevitably  fall  victims  to  the  pursuers. 
But  this  risk  may  be  the  very  reason  for  its  being  es- 
teemed so  great  a tribute  to  the  dead  ; or,  possibly,  they 
may  trust  to  the  distant  out-posts  of  well-mounted  war- 
riors, with  which  the  Pawnees  always  secure  their  rear 
and  flanks 

The  duration  of  mourning  among  this  tribe  seems  very 
unfixed  : the  widow  always  mourns  a year  for  her  hus- 
band ; but  I have  sometimes  seen  squaws  moaning  and 
chanting  in  the  evening  at  a little  distance  from  camp  ; 
and,  on  inquiry,  have  learned  that  they  were  mourning  for 
a relative,  who  had  been  some  years  dead. 

About  ten  miles  beyond  this  spot,  we  found  the  Paw- 
nees encamped,  and  made  our  way  straight  to  the  lodge 

of  Sa-ni-tsa-rish  ; for  V did  not  wish  to  trust  himself 

again  in  that  of  PaMa®-la®-cha’rb,  so  importunate  in  his 
demands,  and  so  insolent  in  pressing  them,  had  that 
young  chief  become  of  late.  Indeed,  just  before  our 
former  departure,  he  had  refused  to  sell  us  a horse, 
although  he  had  ihiriy,  and  we  offered  him  the  full  com- 
plement of  articles  usually  given  in  exchange;  his  tem- 
per was  by  no  means  improved  by  his  having  lost  his 
two  best  horses  in  gambling  at  the  game  of  the  hoop 
and  dart  before  described.  So  it  was  agreed  that  we 

■Would  only  slay  till  V was  able  to  travel,  and  until 

we  could  procure  fresh  guides  and  another  horse,  in  the 
place  of  the  “ wild  beast.” 

The  old  chief  received  us  in  his  usual  kind  manner; 
and,  agreeably  to  Indian  custom,  testified  not  the  least 
surprise  at  our  return,  nor  curiosity  to  know  what  had 
so  suddenly  caused  it,  until  we  were  seated,  and  chose  to 

explain  to  him  by  signs,  that  V had  been,  and  still 

was  much  hurt,  by  a bad  horse,  and  that  our  guide,  his 
broiher,  had  thought  it  “ bad  medicine”  to  proceed. 

Sa-ni-tsa-rish  said  he  was  sorry  my  white  broiher  was 
hurt,  and  that  one  of  his  young  men  should  try  and  find 
a horse  in  exchange  for  the  wicked  one.  When  he  found 

that  V would  not  return  to  the  lodge  of  PaMag-lag- 

cha’ro,  he  shook  his  head,  and  looked  somewhat  grave 


A COMMISSION. 


303 


and  disconcerted.  I knew  that  he  had  not  room  nor  pro- 
visions for  all  our  party,  and  that  we  ought  not  to  put  the 
old  man  to  much  inconvenience,  especially  in  drawing 
upon  him  the  ill-will  of  the  haughty  young  chief;  1,  there- 
fore, told  him  that,  if  he  would  procure  us  the  horse  and 
two  fresh  guides,  that  we  wished  to  go  immediately  ; for 

V said  he  was  well  enough  to  sit  upon  a horse, 

though  not  to  make  long  marches  at  first.  I do  not  think 
that  Sa-ru-tsa-rish  was  well  pleased  with  the  conduct  of 
his  brother  (who  was,  indeed,  a timid  foolish  Indian),  nor 
do  I think  that  the  latter  was  very  well  satisfied  with  his 
own  performances  ; for  as  soon  as  we  reached  the  camp, 
he  had  gone  off  to  his  lodge,  and,  during  our  stay,  he 
neither  came  to  us  nor  to  his  brother. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 


Commission  intrusted  to  the  Canadian  Interpreter. — Arrangement 
with  two  Indian  Guides. — Pae-tae-lae-cha’ro — Indications  of  his  Ma- 
lignity.— Leave  the  Pawnees. — Harangue  of  the  Guide. — Dinner. — 
March  resumed. — Fearful  Storm. — Indian  Superstition. — Morning 
after  the  Storm. — Ramble  in  Search  of  Game. — Antelope. — A nar- 
row Escape. — An  Indian  Hunter — Conversation  with  him. — Lose  my 
Party. — Visit  to  an  Indian  Camp. — My  Reception  there. 

I now  sent  up  to  the  Republican  band  for  the  Cana- 
dian interpreter,  and  requested  him  to  assist  in  changing 
the  horse,  and  in  hiring  two  guides  for  the  fort,  and  ask- 
ed him  to  secure,  if  possible,  two  bold  active  fellows, 
who  would  not  turn  back  for  a trifle.  The  first  part  of 
this  commission  he  executed  by  giving  me  an  animal  of 
his  own,  which  looked  tolerably  well  at  first,  but  a few 
days’  experience  showed  him  to  be  lame  from  a conceal- 
ed disease,  in  the  foot.  How  he  executed  the  second, 
the  sequel  will  show.  He  brought  me  two  young  men  ; 
the  elder  was  called  a hunter  and  a warrior  (having  been 
out  with  a war-party) ; and  they  both  said  that  they  were 
willing  to  guide  the  white  chief  to  his  home,  and  to  see 
his  white  brothers.  I was  inclined  favourably  towards 
the  elder  of  these  young  men,  because  he  was  a relative 


304 


GUIDES  HIRED. 


of  our  old  chief.  I then  repeated  carefully  with  the  in- 
terpreter what  I would  give  them  when  we  reached  the 
fort  ; so  many  blankets,  knives,  papers  of  paint,  strings 
of  wampum,  pieces  of  cloth,  a horse,  &c. ; — all  this  i 
wrote  with  my  pencil,  and  read  to  them.  They  said, 
“ Their  white  father  was  good  ; his  hand  was  open  ; they 
would  go  to  his  home.” 

Having  arranged  this  matter,  we  all  slept  under,  or 
ne  r,  the  lodge  of  Sa-m-tsa-risb.  I found  the  interior  of 
the  lodge  so  close  and  offensive  duiing  some  of  these 
mild  nights  that  1 frequently  spread  my  bearskin  before 
it,  where  my  brother,  t he  chief’s  son,  slept  near  me,  and 
sung  me  to  sleep  with  his  low  monotonous  war-song. 
Indeed,  a great  many  of  the  young  Pawnee  warriors 
prefer  sleeping  on  the  damp  ground,  wrapped  in  their 
buffalo-skin  or  blanket,  to  the  interior  of  a lodge,  which 
last  they  consider  effeminate.  In  the  morning  I was  re- 
joiced to  find  that  V was  so  much  better  as  to  de- 

clare himself  able  and  anxious  to  escape,  a second  time, 
from  the  vermin  nest,  to  which  we  had  so.  unwillingly  re- 
turned. 

We  then  collected  our  packs  of  skins,  and  whatever 
few  other  articles  we  possessed  ; having  also  contrived 
to  purchase  a small  additional  supply  of  dried  maize  and 
tufalo  meat,  and  began  to  load  our  horses  before  our 
old  chief’s  lodge.  While  this  ceremony  was  being 
performed,  Pae-ta^-la^-cha’ro,  with  whom  V had  be- 

fore resided,  came  up  and  squatted  down  by  our  goods, 
with  his  eyes  fixed  upon  them,  and,  without  deigning  to 

notice  V , who  had  been  so  long  his  guest,  and  from 

whom  he  had  received  as  many  presents  as  our  means 
had  enabled  him  to  offer.  He  sat  for  some  time  perfectly 
still,  and  gave  me  full  leisure  to  admire  (as  I could  not 
help  doing)  the  magnificent  mould  of  his  Herculean 
limbs,  uniting  the  smooth  roundness  and  pliant  grace  pe- 
culiar to  the  Indians,  with  a developement  of  muscle 
and  sinew  rarely  seen  among  them.  He  had  shaved  off 
the  ponderous  mass  of  black  and  bushy  hair.*  which 

* It  is  well  known  that  the  Indians’  hair  is  almost  universally  black 
and  strait ; that  of  this  chief  was  certainly  an  exception  to  the  latter,  for 


INDIAN  CHIEF. 


305 


covered  his  head  when  I had  first  known  him;  all  but 
the  scalplock,  which,  intertwined  with  an  eagle’s  feather, 
and  tinged  with  vermilion,  now  rose  high  above  his  scalp, 
as  if  daring  any  mortal  to  try  to  win  it. 

I know  not  what  had  obtained  for  us  the  displeasure 
and  hatred  of  this  dangerous  chief ; but,  though  we  had 
so  often  eaten,  hunted,  and  smoked  together — though  our 
attendants  had  rendered  him  a number  of  services,  in 
trifling  matters  which  his  own  people  did  not  understand, 
he  now  looked  up  in  my  face  as  if  he  had  never  known 
me,  and,  with  a countenance  strongly  indicative  of  dis- 
like and  malignity.  In  returning  his  look,  I threw  into 
my  manner  as  much  unconcern  andcontempt  as  I could  ; 
but,  nevertheless,  thought  it  not  unlikely  that  he  would 
do  us  some  mischief  before  we  reached  the  fort. 

Old  Sa-ni-tsa-rish’s  gave  me  a warm  embrace  at  part- 
ing, as  before ; but  he  was  grave  and  thoughtful,  and 
said,  there  were  bad  men  in  the  prairie  ; adding  a signi- 
ficant sign  that  we  should  look  out  while  we  slept.* 
This  last  caution  I determined  not  to  forget;  but  I did 
not  communicate  it  to  the  rest  of  the  party,  thinking  that 
without  it  there  was  already  in  the  journey  before  us 
sufficient  cause  for  anxiety  and  uneasiness. 

On  the  morning  of  the  1 1th  we  again  bade  adieu  to 
the  Pawnees,  and  most  anxiously  did  we  all  wish  that  it 
might  be  for  ever.  While  we  shook  hands  with  all  the 
other  Indians  around,  and  while  1 embraced  my  old 
chief,  and  my  brother,!  PaMaMa^-cha’rd  retained  the 

when  allowed1  to  grow  long,  it  was  extremely  thick,  and  had  a very 
perceptible  wave.  I have  aiso  both  read  and  heard  of  many  exceptions 
to  the  black  colour  in  the  remote  tribes  in  the  mountains,  such  as  the 
Arrapahoes,  Kaskaias,  &c.,  and  more  especially  the  Mandans  on  the 
Upper  Missouri,  among  whom  there  are  many  instances  of  hair  of  a 
grayish  blue  ashy  colour;  but  it  prevails  more  among  the  females  than 
among  the  men. 

* This  sign  is  made  by  suffering  the  head  to  rest  for  a moment  on  the 
palm  of  the  right  hand,  in  a reclining  position  (to  imitate  sleep),  and 
then  passing  the  forefinger  of  the  same  hand  from  the  eye  in  an  oblique 
direction,  which  indicates  that  you  are  to  look,  secretly  or  warily ; 
whereas,  if  you  are  desired  to  look  straight  before  you,  or  openly,  the 
forefinger  would  be  directed  toward  the  supposed  object  in  front. 

+ The  son  of  Sa-m-t.sa-rish,  whom  I have  more  than  once  mentioned, 
and  who  was,  in  the  main,  a good-natured  young  man,  had  frequently, 
while  we  were  hunting  together,  called  me  by  this  name,  which  is  Eh- 

Cc* 


306 


MARCH  COMMENCED. 


same  sulky  and  unmoved  expression,  and  we  began  our 
march  without  his  having  bestowed  one  mark  of  recog- 
nition, either  on  his  late  guest  or  on  myself. 

Soon  after  we  had  left  the  village  I rode  forward, 
in  order  to  make  my  observations  on  the  disposition  of 
the  guide,  to  watch  how  he  selected  the  ground  for  our 
route,  and  also  to  amuse  myself  by  improving  myself  in 
Pawnee  grammar.  The  young  man  seemed  very  lively 
and  communicative,  and  was  extremely  fond  of  convers- 
ing by  signs,  an  art  in  which  he  was  thoroughly  versed  ; 
and  I soon  became  so  familiar  with  his  method  of  ex- 
pression, that  I could  understand  almost  everything  he 
wished  to  explain  to  me. 

It  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  record  a long  speech  he 
thus  made  me,  and  of  wdiich  I could  understand  the 
whole  without  his  once  speaking  : — “ My  father,  you  are 
going  home  to  your  lodge;  it  is  very  far;  twenty  days 
we  must  travel  fast.  I am  your  brother.  I will  find  the 
path  ; I will  find  water.  At  night  I will  watch  to  see  if 
bad  men  are  coming ; Sioux  and  Shiennes,  and  others, 

are  bad  men.  Your  white  brother  (V ) is'  not  strong  ; 

he  is  wounded  in  the  arm  and  body  ; he  must  sleep;  I 
will  look.  You  will  come  to  your  village‘(Fort  Leaven- 
worth); I shall  see  your  people  ; they  will  give  me  plenty 
to  eat.  I will  see  your  pretty  white  squaws  ; you  will 
give  me  blankets,  beads,  a horse;  you  will  load  him  for 
me  with  knives,  and  cloth,  and  a coat,  and  a hat.  I will 
go  back  to  the  Pawnees  ; I will  be  a man  ; I will  take  a 
squawr — a very  pretty  young  squaw.  Men  will  see  my 
blankets,  and  other  goods,  and  will  say,  4 The  white 
chief  is  your  father;  he  has  an  open  hand.’  ” 

During  this  harangue  he  frequently  stopped,  and  asked 
me  by  signs  if  I understood.  If  I answered  by  an  af- 
firmative sign,  he  immediately  went  on,  if  by  a negative, 
he  repeated  his  gestures  more  carefully  until  I compre- 
hended them. 

After  travelling  in  this  manner  about  twenty  miles,  we 
reached  a creek  of  considerable  size ; it  was  very  wel- 

r&h-re,  putting  at  the  same  time,  two  fingers  of  the  right  hand  together 
on  his  lower  lip,  and  then  pressing  his  clenched  hand  over  his  heart ; 
the  first  of  these  signs  denoting  brotherhood  ; the  second,  affection. 


DINNER. 


307 


come  to  our  eyes,  for  we  were  very  thirsty  ; moreover, 
we  thought  it  would  lead  us  to  one  of  the  upper  forks  of 
the  Kanzas,*  and  w,hen  we  should  have  crossed  that 
river,  we  should  be  among  friendly  Indians,  and  consider 
ourselves  safe.  Here  we  camped  and  prepared  our  din- 
ner, which  was  by  no  means  to  be  despised  ; for  be  it 
remembered,  that  we  had  kept,  besides  a pound  or  two 
of  tea,  coffee,  and  sugar,  a small  sack  of  flour,  two  or 
three  quarts  of  beans,  and  a large  piece  of  fat  bacon,  or 
rather,  bacon  fat ; besides  these  civilized  luxuries,  we 
had  some  maize  and  dried  buffalo  meat.  Our  kitchen 
utensils  consisted  of  a large  iron  pot,  a smaller  tin  one, 
for  boiling  our  tea,  coffee,  &c.,  and  a frying-pan  without  a 
handle.  ( )ur  dinner  and  tea  service  were  not  upon  so  mag- 
nificent a scale,  having  each  of  us  a butcher’s  knife,  a tin 
cup,  a wooden  bowl,  and  a spoon  made  of  buffalo-horn. 
We  now  determined  to  indemnify  ourselves  for  our  dirty 
half-dressed  fare  among  the  Pawnees,  not  by  the  quan- 
tity, but  by  the  quality  and  delicacy  of  our  cookery.  I 
appointed  young  Hardy,  the  American  lad,  cook.  As 
,soon  as  his  fac?  was  turned  homeward,  he  improved  very 
much  in  spirits,  readiness,  and  activity,  and  in  all  the 
detail  of  daily  work  completely  beat  my  other  servant, 
although  the  latter  was  a full  grown  and  a stronger  man. 
• We  put  into  the  pot,  with  three  or  four  quarts  of  water, 
a large  lump  of  meat,  with  some  maize  and  a few  beans. 
When  these  were  thoroughly  boiled,  they  made  a very 
palatable  and  nutritious  soup  ; but  in  our  second  course 
we  indulged  in  a luxury  to  which  we  had  long  been 
strangers  ; for  we  made  some  small  flour  cakes,  by  fry- 
ing them  in  bacon  fat,  and  finished  this  repast  with  a 
cup.  of  coffee.  After  which  we  lit  our  pipes  with  Kinne- 
kennik,  leaned  back  against  some  of  the  bales  with  our 
feet  to  the  fire,  and  felt  as  complete  a contempt  for  want 
and  care  as  ever  I remember  to  have  experienced.  In 
feeding  our  guides,  I had  allowed  them  a larger  allowance 
of  meat  and  maize  than  we  took  ourselves  ; but  no  cakes, 
as  our  stock  of  flour  was  so  small;  and  as  to  bacon,  no 


*'  It  would  have  led  us,  as  we  afterward  discovered,  to  one  of  the 
tributaries  of  the  Arkansas. 


308 


MARCH  RESUMED. 


Pawnee  will  touch  it.*  The  coffee  they  did  not  like  ; and 
it  is  no  wonder;  for  thinking  it  was  throwing  pearls  before 
swine,  I took  care  to  dilute  their  portions  liberally  with 
water  ; but  I found  that,  whether  strong  or  weak,  they 
disliked  it,  and  only  drank  it  because  they  thought  it 
was  “ great  medicine  ” among  the  whiles. 

In  the  afternoon  we  marched  for  two  or  three  hours, 
observing  generally  the  course  of  the  same  stream.  We 
passed  vast  herds  of  buffalo;  our  guides  wished  me  to 
shoot  one  or  two,  but  I would  not,  for  more  reasons  than 
one  ; first,  I thought  we  had  still  as  much  meat  as  our 
horses  ought  to  be  made  to  carry,  so  that  it  would  be  but 
wanton  cruelty  to  kill  what  we  could  notuse;  and  second- 
ly, I could  not  tell  how  near  to  us  might  be  lurking  parties 
of  Pawnees,  perhaps  watching  these  very  herds,  and 
who  might,  if  f began  to  hunt  and  shoot  them,  be  depriv- 
ed of  their  meat  supply,  and  become  hostile  in  their  views 
toward  us;  so  I would  not  permit  the  animals  to  be  dis- 
turbed, and  we  passed  quietly  on  about  twelve  miles  : 
course  by  compass  east  by  north. 

A heavy  black  mass  of  clouds  now  appeared  above  the 
norlh-west  horizon,  and  we  resolved  to  camp  immediately, 
in  order  to  get  time  to  shelter  our  baggage,  secure  our 
horses,  light  our  fire,  and,  if  possible,  pitch  our  tent. 
This  last  was  a small  fly-tent,  which  had  been  lent  to  me 
by  one  of  the  officers  at  the  fort ; we  had  used  it  only  a 
few  times  on  our  outward  march,  and  never  since  we  had 
joined  the  Pawnee  village.  I would  now  have  left  it  in 
the  barren  wilderness,  where  we  could  not  find  tent-poles 
with  which  to  raise  it,  had  I not  thought  that  I was  bound 
by  all  the  considerations  of  honesty  and  politeness,  to  re- 
turn it  to  the  mess  from  which  I had  been  allowed  to 
take  it. 

We  had  ill  calculated  the  rapidity  with  which  one  of 
these  terrible  storms  in  ihe  West  marches  across  the  hea- 
vens. We  had  only  just  time  to  unload  and  secure  our 
horses,  and  to  pile  our  baggage  in  a heap,  with  the  tent 


* The  horror  of  many  tribe  of  Indians  for  bacon  may  be  noticed  as 
one  of  the  curious  coincidences  which  have  been  brought  forward  for  the 
purpose  of  tracing  their  origin  up  to  the  Israelites. 


FEARFUL  STORM. 


309 


thrown  loosely  over  it,  when  the  flood-gates  were  let  loose 
above  us,  and  a torrent  descended,  such  as  I have  never 
seen  exceeded,  if  equalled,  in  my  life.  The  darkness 
seemed  blacker  than  usual,  fitful  gusts  of  tempest  swept 
with  unchecked  fury  over  the  waste,  while  the  broad 
flashes  of  lightning  which  accompanied  the  heavy  and 
repealed  peals  of  thunder,  served  to  reveal  to  us  our 
pitiful  and  miserable  plight.  Pitiful,  indeed,  it  was,  for 
we  had  neither  food,  fire,  nor  shelter,  but  were  stretched 
on  the  grass  round  the  baggage,  each  in  the  position 
which  he  had  first  chosen,  wrapped  in  our  buffalo-skins, 
which,  in  half  an  hour,  were  completely  soaked  and 
drenched.  There  was  no  remedy  but  to  lie  quiet  and 
make  the  best  of  it ; for,  after  the  first  fury  of  the  storm 
had  passed  over,  a heavy  continuous  rain  succeeded,  and 
did  not  cease  till  morning.  Just  about  dawn  the  guide 
came  to  me,  led  me  a little  on  one  side,  then  pointing 
upward,  told  me  in  a whisper  to  “ ask  the  Great  Spirit  to 
send  no  more  rain,  but  to  show  the  sun  I gravely  made 
a sign  of  assent,  and  he  went  away  apparently  satisfied. 
Whether  he  derived  this  idea  from  his  own  superstitious 
belief  in  the  white  man’s  superior  facilities  of  communi- 
cating with  the  Great  Spirit,  or  whether  he  had  heard  any- 
thing from  one  of  the  Missionaries  about  praying,  I know' 
not. 

With  the  dawn, .the  darkness  and  the  rain  departed, 
and  I shall  not  soon  forget  the  sensation  which  I expe- 
rienced, nor  the  appearance  of  our  group.  Drenched, 
hungry,  and  shivering  wfith  cold,  we  crawled  out  of  the 
puddles  in  which  we  had  slept,  and  I never  saw  a more 
miserable-looking  set  of  Christians  than  we  were.  Our 
clothes  were  soaked,  ragged,  and  dirty  ; our  beards  of  a 
week’s  growth  ; and  our  broad-brimmed  hats  doubled  and 
squeezed  into  the  most  quaint  and  fantastic  shapes.  Even 
the  Indians,  as  they  rose  and  shook  their  blankets,  patted 
their  cold  ribs  and  loins,  saying,  “ It  is  very  cold  ; — not 
good,  not  good.”  Some  of  our  party  complained  much 
of  symptoms  of  lumbago  and  rheumatism  ; but  I urged 
them  to  jump  and  move  about,  to  catch  the  horses  which 
had  strayed  to  some  distance,  although  hobbled,  and  to 
try  and  make  a fire.  This  last,  after  no  little  trouble,  wre 


310 


BREAKFAS  f. 


effected,  put  on  our  pots,  and  made  some  soup  and  hot 
coffee,  smoked  our  pipe  of  Kinnekinnik,*  and,  as  soon 
as  the  sun  appeared,  spread  our  clothes  and  skins  to  dry. 
We  were  obliged  also  to  spread  all  our  meat,  for  ihat 
being  carried  in  packs  will  spoil  very  soon,  unless  kept 
carefully  dry. 

While  lying  thus  lazily  steaming  and  drying  myself, 
it  being  lhe  morning  of  the  1 2th,  I began  to  think  of  the 
thousands  of  citizens,  cockneys,  and  sportsmen,  who 
were  on  this  day  killing  (or  frightening)  their  fifty  brace 
on  the  brown  hills  of  old  Scotland.  I felt  a longing  to 
be  there — not  for  the  grouse,  but  for  some  of  the  fami- 
liar faces  of  home. 

At  noon  we  started  again,  and  soon  fell  in  with  a small 
party  of  Pawnees,  who  were  pursuing  a straightcourse  for 
their  winter  village,  north-north-east ; we  interchanged 
a few  words  and  passed  on.  The  day  had  now  become 
very  close  and  sultry,  so  I threw  off  my  coat  and  waist- 
coat, and  securing  my  ammunition  in  my  waist-belt, 
determined  to  walk  off  the  stiffening  effects  of  the  pre- 
ceding night’s  ducking.  The  guide  pointed  to  a high 
point  or  knob  at  a distance,  apparently  terminating  the 
ridge  on  which  we  were  situated,  and  it  was  agreed 
that  the  party  should  camp  there  for  the  night ; while  I 
should  take  a ramble  with  my  rifle,  and  endeavour  to  ob- 
tain a supply  of  fresh  fat,  of  which  'we  were  much  in 
need  for  our  frying-pan  operations.  Accordingly,  I start- 
ed, and  after  traversing  a large  space  of  barren,  undula- 
ting ground,  I saw  a few  antelope  browsing  ; as  they 
had  also  seen  me,  all  my  attempts  to  approach  them 
were  abortive  ; so  I determined  to  try  a method  well 
known  to  western  hunters.  Hiding  myself  behind  a 
small  mound,  I raised  my  handkerchief  on  the  point  of 
my  ramrod,  and  waved  it  gently  once  or  twice,  then  with- 
drew it;  this  manoeuvre  I repeated  two  or  three  times, 

* Kinneklnnlck  ; this  mixture,  which  is  smoked  by  all  the  Indians  of 
the  western  regions,  is  usually  composed  of  the  dried  leaves  of  the  shu- 
mack  and  the  inner  bark  of  the  red  willow  ; these  are  chopped  very  fine, 
and  the  compound  is  generally  carried  in  otters’  skins,  ornamented  with 
beads  or  porcupine  quills  ; with  the  addition  of  one-fourth  proportion 
of  tobacco,  it  is  a smoking-mixture  by  no  means  to  be  despised.  I be- 
lieve the  word  is  Delaware. 


Narrow  escape. 


311 


and  the  silly,  curious  animals  approached  with  their  noses 
and  necks  stretched  forward,  to  see  what  this  strange  ap- 
parition could  be.  They  were  coming  nearer  and  nearer, 
and  would  have  been  almost  immediately  within  shot, 
when  preparing  to  present  my  rifle,  I.  made  some  awk- 
ward movement,  so  as  to  expose  my  elbow  or  shoulder, 
and  in  a moment  the  timid  creatures  ran  off  at  full  speed, 
leaving  me  in  the  worst  predicament  that  a man  can  be 
in,  angry  with  himself. 

After  walking  for  another  hour,  I saw  a single  buffalo 
grazing  on  the  top  of  a hill,  the  sides  of  which  were  very 
level  and  slightly  inclined,  so  as  to  render  it  difficult  to 
approach  him.  Resolving,  however,  to  attempt  it,  I 
took  advantage  of  every  mound  and  hillock  to  conceal 
myself,  until  I came  within  about  three  hundred  yards  : 
hence  the  gentle  slope  was  quite  smooth  ; so  1 was 
obliged  to  lie  down,  and  trail  myself  along  the  ground, 
like  a serpent,  dragging  my  rifle  with  me.  Whenever 
the  buffalo  stopped  feeding,  and  raised  his  head,  I in- 
stantly dropped  arrd  remained  perfectly  still,  until  he 
again  began  to  browse.  In  this  manner  I had  succeeded 
in  crawling  within  about  eighty  yards,  without  disturb- 
ing the  animal,  when,  just  as  I raised  myself  slightly,  to 
take  my  aim,  I heard  the  report  of  a gun.  A ball  whistled 
by  me,  and  the  buffalo  gallopped  off.  Starting  to  my 
feet,  I ran  forward,  and  saw  the  hunter  who  had  jus 
fired.  He  had  apparently  been  creeping  to  attack  the 
buffalo  from  the  other  side  : he  had  missed  his  mark 
and  I thought  that  the  bullet  had  passed  much  nearer  me 
than  was  necessary.  I was  not  quite  sure  what  the  ob- 
ject of  his  aim’ had  really  been;  for  it  is  very  difficult, 
when  a bullet  is  whistling  through  the  air,  to  tell  its  ex- 
act distance,  as,  (if  it  is  not  completely  round,)  it  will 
sound  much  louder  and  nearer  than  it  would  if  its  form 
were  perfect.  However  this  may  be,  I felt  rather  doubt- 
ful of  this  Indian,  and  thought  that  he  might  have  taken 
a fancy  to  prefer  my  rifle  and  ammunition,  and  a white 
man’s  scalp  to  a load  of  buffalo  meat. 

As  I drew  near,  he  spoke  to  me  in  Pawnee,  pointed 
to  the  buffalo,  and  said  he  had  missed  it.  I said,  “ your 
gun  is  bad  !”  He  was  just  beginning  to  reload  it,  when 


312 


INDIAN  HUNTER* 


I told  him  he  must  not  do  so.  I pointed  to  my  double 
rifle,  which  was  loaded,  and  said,  that  it  was  enough. 
In  fact,  I thought  it  as  well  to  keep  this  suspicious-look- 
ing fellow  unarmed  while  we  were  in  company.  He 
had,  it  is  true,  a scalp-knife  for  close  quarters  ; but  I had 
one  also;  and,  in  looking  him  carefully  over,  I was  pret- 
ty well  satisfied  that  I wras  the  stronger  of  the  two.  He 
did  appear  to  be  more  than  twenty,  and  was  slightly 
formed  : if  we  were  to  quarrel,  he  might,  it  is  tiue,  beat 
me  in  running;  but  my  faithful  Purday  would  have  more 
than  compensated  that  disadvantage.  However  he  did 
not  seem  in  the  least  angry  or  displeased  when  I told  him 
not  to  load  his  gun,  but  laughed  at  his  own  bad  shot,  and, 
pointing  to  my  rifle,  said  he  would  give  me  his  piece  and 
a horse  for  my  “ medicine  gun.”  I declined  the  bargain, 
but  wras  pleased  by  the  fellow’s  good-humour  ; and  thought 
I had  done  him  an  injustice  in  suspecting  him  of  having 
aimed  at  me.  I remembered,  also,  that  I had  a great 
advantage  over  him  in  my  light  and  excellent  weapon  ; 
so  I told  him  he  might  load  his  gun,  but  made  him  signs 
that  il  we  saw  buffalo  or  antelope,  he  must  shoot  better. 
He  took  up  the  sign  language  directly,  grinned,  and,  with 
a look  of  contempt  on  his  gun,  (which  was  a bran-new 
thirty-shilling  exportation  from  Birmingham,)  showed  me 
that  he  would  not  miss  a buffalo  if  he  had  his  bow  and 
arrow's.  He  now  proceeded  to  load,  an  operation  which 
I watched  with  no  little  amusement,  wondering  where 
his  ammunition  was  to  come  from,  inasmuch  as  he  was 
perfecily  naked,  except  the  waist-belt,  which  supported 
his  breech  cloth,  and  a pair  of  moccasins.  However,  it 
did  appear  that  a- small  hollowed  point  of  horn,  stopped 
with  a wooden  plug,  was  in  the  said  belt  (as,  indeed,  w'ere 
his  butcher-knife,  flint,  and  touchwood),  from  which  he 
put  in  a charge  of  powder,  which  he  rammed  down  with 
some  shreds  of  a reed,  or  inner  bark  ; then  he  took  from 
his  mouth  a half-chewed  bullet,*  and,  wrapping  it  in  the 
same  stuff,  rammed  it  down  also. 

* This  method  of  making  bullets  is  very  common  among  the  Indians 
who  use  guns.  They  will  hunt  all  day  with  a piece  of  lead  in  their 
mouth,  which  they  thus  chew  into  form.  Another  object  is  hereby  at- 
tained; if  no  water  can  be  obtained,  a piece  of  lead  in  the  mouth  excites 


LOSE  MY  PARTY. 


312 


The  evening  was  drawing  on,  and  the  sky  was  dusk 
and  gloomy  ; so  that,  although  the  sun  had  not  set,  it 
was  impossible  to  tell  in  what  quarter  of  the  heaven  he 
might  be.  The  Indian  made  signs  that  it  was  time  to 
go  to  the  lodges  to  eat  and  sleep.  I now  became  aware, 
for  the  first  time,  that  I was  completely  lost  in  my  reck- 
onings, and  had  not  the  most  remote  idea  in  what  direc- 
tion to  look  for  my  party  ; for  I had  turned  and  wound 
about,  and  crept  and  run  so  much  in  pursuit  of  the  ante- 
lopes, that  I no  longer  knew  north  from  south.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  my  jacket  was  left  with  my  party, 
and  in  it  was  my  compass  ; while  the  dull  heavy  sky 
above  promised  no  assistance  from  sun,  moon,  or  star. 
I did  -not  like  to  expose  my  helpless  condition  to  my 
companion,  but,  determining  to  extract  from  him  all  the 
information  possible,  asked  him,  by  signs,  what  time  of 
day  he  thought  it  might  be  ? He  answered,  in  the  same 
manner,  about  four  or  five  o’clock.*  My  object  was  not 
to  know  the  hour , which  was  not  of  the  least  importance, 
but  to  ascertain  thus  indirectly  the  exact  bearings  of 
east  and  west.  Having  done  this,  and  compared,  as  ra- 
pidly as  I could,  several  of  the  most  remarkable  knobs 
or  heights  to  serve  as  landmarks,  I asked  him  where  his 
lodges  were  ? To  my  great  satisfaction,  he  pointed  near- 
ly east : I said  I would  go  there,  and  eat. 

We  proceeded  accordingly,  side  by  side.  I kept  a 
sharp  eye  upon  this  young  Indian,  who  was  a sly.,  ma- 
licious-looking chap,  and  resolved  various  plans  for 
finding  my  own  party.  I hoped,  however,  that  the 
Indians  at  the  small  camp  to  which  he  belonged  might, 


the  saliva,  and  relieves  the  pains  of  thirst.  I have  more  than  once  used 
one  of  my  own  rifle-balls  for  this  purpose,  and  have  experienced  muck, 
relief  from  so  doing. 

* In  expressing  to  one  who  cannot  speak  his  language  the  hour  of  the 
day,  an  Indian  bends  the  thumb  and  fore-finger  of  the  right  hand,  so  as 
to  make  a kind  of  crescent ; begins  by  directing  them  to  the  east ; then 
traces  with  them  the  sun’s  path,  giving  slight  jerks  to  indicate  the  divi- 
sion of  hours,  till  he  comes  to  a pause  at  the  meridian.  He  then  pro- 
ceeds, in  like  manner,  till  his  fingers  point  to  the  western  horizon  : 
on  this  occasion  four  or  five  jerking  and  successive  movements  of  the 
hand  towards  the  west,  after  making  the  noon-pause,  indicated  the  hour 
which  I have  mentioned  in  the  text. 

Vol.  I.— Dd 


314 


INDIAN  CAMP. 


perchance,  throw  some  light  upon  the  subject ; for  I was 
sure  that  they  would  be  camped  by  a stream,  and  if  our 
party  had  crossed  it,  their  trail  would  not  have  been 
unobserved.  At  all  events,  it  appeared  more  prudent  to 
go  and  secure  a supper,  than  to  ramble  all  night  about 
this  waste,  wiihout  food,  water,  fire,  or  jacket. 

We  walked  on  rapidly  for  two  hours,  when  we  came 
to  a soft  bank  of  grass,  and  my  companion  proposed  that 
we  should  sit  down  and  rest,  to  which  I acceded.  After 
a short  time,  we  resumed  our  course ; and,  ere  long, 
arrived  in  sight  of  the  small  encampment,  by  the  side  of 
a large  stream.  Here  I left  my  companion,  and  deter- 
mined to  seek  the  principal  lodge  in  the  party,  which  my 
Pawnee  experience  enabled  me  at  once  to  recognize  by 
the  shield  and  badge  raised  on  the  three  poles  before  it. 
The  children  and  dogs  assailed  me,  as  usual ; but  I pass- 
ed on,  and  stopped  opposite  to  the  entrance  of  the  lodge, 
where  I gave  the  usual  salutation,  and  remained  only  a 
moment  standing,  when  the  Indian  made  me  a sign  to 
come  and  sit  down  by  him,  which  I obeyed  in  silence.  I 
w’as  very  hungry,  and  saw  with  pleasure  that  my  host 
was  tolerably  fat,  and  that  neither  of  his  squaws  was  very 
meagre  in  appearance.  All  this  augured  well  for  their 
kitchen  discipline  ; but,  in  conformity  with  their  habits,  I 
made  no  sign  of  wanting  food.  The  man  gave  me  a 
pipe,  and,  in  a few  minutes,  a fine  fat  rib,  hot  from  the 
fire,  was  placed  before  me.  On  this  occasion  my  appe- 
tite must  have  done  itself  justice,  for  I picked  the  bone 
as  clean  as  it  could  have  been  made  by  a prairie  wolf. 
J^think  these  people  had  been  with  me  in  the  great  camp, 
but,  not  belonging  to  the  band  or  quarter  where  I had 
lodged,  they  had  only  seen  me  at  a distance  ; although 
they  knew  that  I had  been  with  old  Sa-m-tsa-rish,  for  I 
heard  them  say  so.  The  squaws  were  very  good- 
humoured  and  curious:  they  seemed  much  puzzled  at 
my  dress,  for  it  was  now  late  in  the  evening,  and  rather 
cold.  I had  only  my  blue  cotton  shirt : they  felt  it,  then 
touched  the  skin  of  my  throat,  uttering  a kind  of  “ ugh” 
of  astonishment  at  its  being  so  white  and  thin,  in  com- 
parison to  their  own  dark  and  coarse  cuticle.  They 
asked  me  if  I had  not  a horse,  a blanket,  or  a buffalo- 


UNPLEASANT  PREDICAMENT. 


315 


robe  ? I said  I had  all  of  them,  but  they  were  waiting 
for  me  in  the  prairie.  Finding  the  Indians  in  this  lodge 
very  good-natured  and  communicative,  I began  to  prose- 
cute my  investigations  respecting  my  party  ; but  they 
knew  nothing  of  them,  neither  had  their  trail  been  seen. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Unpleasant  Predicament.—  Set  forth  in  Search  of  my  Party. — Night 
Wanderings. — Rejoin  my  Friends. — Journey  resumed.  — Evening 
' Camp. — Prairie  Wolves. — Scotch  Servant. — The  American  Lad. — 
Conversation  with  the  Guide. — Enormous  Rattlesnake. — Indian  Ma- 
noeuvre.— Danger  from  Snakes. — An  Antelope  shot. — A Bath. — Our 
Feast.—  Meeting  with  Pawnee  Hunters. — Their  Conference  with  our 
Guides. — Consultation  with  my  Companions.  — Desertion  of  the 
Guides. — Difficulties  of  our  Situation. — Commencement  of  my  Office 
as  Guide. 

I now  found  myself  in  a very  unpleasant  predicament. 
My  life,  indeed,  was  not  in  much  danger,  because  I might, 
probably,  have  been  permitted  to  accompany  these  In- 
dians to  the  Pawnee  villages  on  the  Platte,  where  I might 
have  waited  until  some  trading  party  should  go  down  the 
Missouri ; but  my  condition  would  not,  in  this  case,  be 
very  enviable.  With  neither  horse,  clothes,  nor  blanket, 
and  with  a very  small  stock  of  ammunition,  I was  cer- 
tainly not  well  equipped  for  along  journey  and  residence 
with  the  Pawnees  ; neither  did  I think  that  my  own 

party  could  get  on  very  well  without  me,  as  V was 

crippled,  and  none  of  them  were  hunters.  So  I deter- 
mined to  sally  forth,  and  seek  them  at  all  risks. 

Fortunately,  the  clouds  cleared  away  and  the  stars 
shone  brightly ; I easily  found  the  polar-star,  and  com- 
pared it  with  the  fronting  of  the  lodge,  which  I found 
correct  as  usual,  due  east.  I then  examined  the  course 
of  the  stream,  and,  in  short,  took  all  my  bearings,  both 
on  earth  and  in  the  sky,  as  deliberately  and  as  carefully 
as  I could.  The  Indian  thought  I was  making  “ great 
medicine and  when  I pointed  to  the  polar-star,  he 
seemed  evidently  to  know  it,  and  said  that  the  “ buffalo 
were  now  going  that  way but  he  could  not  make  out 
what  I had  to  do  with  it. 


31 6 


NIGHT  WANDERINGS. 


As  soon  as  I gave  him  to  understand  that  I was  going 
to  set  off  on  a night  journey,  he  said,  “ Ugh  !” — it  is  not 
good  !”  and  made  me  signs  to  wrap  myself  in  one  of  his 
robes  and  sleep.  He  asked  “ if  I was  tired.”-  I told 
him,  “No;  I am  strong.’^  He  inquired  “ where  I was 
going.”  I answered  by  signs  that,  “ before  morning,  I 
should  rejoin  my  party  and  get  my  horses.”  Indeed,  I 
affected  more  confidence  in  this  matter  than  I felt.  I had 
made  up  my  mind  to  walk  all  night,  and  all  the  following 
morning,  in  search  of  my  party  ; and  if  I could  not  find 
them,  to  come  back  to  this  camping-place,  and  follow  the 
trail  of  these  Indians,  in  order  to  reach  them,  as  I might 
otherwise  run  a risk  of  perishing  with  cold  and  hunger. 
I made  signs  that  it  was  very  far,  and  asked  if  they  would 
give  me  some  meat  to  take  with  me,  which  they  imme- 
diately did.  Of  thi3  I slung  two  or  three  slices  to  my 
waist-belt,  and  started  on  my  night  expedition,  after 
thanking,  with  the  warmest  expressions  and  gestures,  the 
inmates  of  the  lodge,  who  were,  indeed,  the  most  simple 
good-natured  Indians  whom  I had  met  with.  I wished  I 
had  something  better  than  thanks  to  give  them  ; but  not 
being  able  to  spare  my  shirt,  I was  obliged  to  forego  that 
satisfaction. 

As  I started,  I took  the  precaution  to  examine  care- 
fully the  locks  of  my  rifle,  at  which  manoeuvre  the  old 
Indian  gave  another  significant  “ Ugh  !”  and  we  parted. 
The  night  being  fresh,  it  was  somewhat  annoying  that  I 
was  obliged  (from  the  direction  in  which  I calculated  my 
parly  to  be)  to  cross  the  stream  near  which  the  Indians 
■were  encamped  ; however,  it  did  not  wet  me  much  above 
the  knees,  and  I knew  that  I should  not  be  likely  to  want 
exercise  very  soon.  I walked  as  fast  as  I could,  and  ex- 
amined all  the  country  near  the  main  creek  without  suc- 
cess. I tried  the  higher  ridges,  and  followed  one,  where 
the  nature  of  the  ground  made  it  probable  that  another 
creek  met  the  one  which  I bad  left.  I lay  down  re- 
peatedly, and  put  my  ear  to  the  ground,  in  hopes  of  hear- 
ing some  sound  which  might  guide  me,  but  none  met  my 
ear,  except  the  shrill,  barking  howl  of  the  prairie  wolves; 
and  I found  that,  in  that  position  I certainly  could  hear 
the  noise  of  the  little  Indian  camp  farther  than  I could 


JOURNEY  RESUMED. 


317 


when  I stood  up.  I should  think,  however,  that  the  as- 
sistance derivable  from  it  must  be  greater  on  a level 
plain,  than  a hilly  district,  such  as  J was  now  crossing. 

This  latter  cast  was  more  fortunate ; I had  not  long 
begun  to  descend  the  second  ridge,  when  I perceived  at 
a distance  a glimmer  of  light  and  some  smoke.  As  I 
drew  near,  I went  carefully  and  stealthily  forward,  for 
fear  it  might  be  a party  of  strange  Indians,  and  that  I 
might  be  discovered  by  some  of  their  scouts  : but  I soon 
found,  to  my  great  joy,  that  it  was  the  camp  of  my  own 
friends.  They  had  begun  to  feel  much  alarmed  at  my 
long  absence,  but  had  very  wisely  remained  by  the  place 
first  agreed  upon,  trusting  to  my  being  thus  enabled  more 
easily  to  find  them.  I told  them  of  my  having  fallen  in, 
and  supped  with,  a small  Pawnee  party  ; but  I did  not 
tell  them  how  completely  I had  been  lost,  and  with  what 
anxious  fears  of  not  rejoining  them  I had  been  rambling- 
over  the  prairie  : because  I was  ashamed  of  having  acted 
■with  so  little  carefulness  and  prudence. 

On  the  13th,  we  started  early,  and  travelled  about  ten 
miles,  in  a wet,  thick  fog,  accompanied  by  a raw  driz- 
zling rain  and  wind  from  the  north-east.  In  short,  it  was 
such  weather  as  we  often  experience  in  Britain  about  the 
end  of  February — course,  east-south-east.  At  noon,  the 
weather  improved,  and  we  camped  by  a small  creek, 
which  we  believed  to  be  one  of  the  tributaries  of  the 
Kanzas.  Here,  again,  we  enjoyed  an  excellent  meal  of 
buffalo  meat,  seasoned  with  a few  flour  cakes  fried  in 
bacon.  In  the  afternoon,  we  proceeded  as  usual,  till 
dusk  ; camped  by  the  same  creek  ; secured  our  horses 
— lighted  our  fire — boiled  some  coffee,  and  smoked  a 
pipe.  At  this  place,  musquitoes  were  very  plentiful,  but 
we  had  become  somewhat  indifferent  to  them.  We  were 
lulled  to  rest  by  a pack  of  prairie  wolves,  howling  on  a 
small  hill  on  the  other  side  of  the  creek.  These  animals 
seemed  so  bold  and  hungry,  that,  by  the  advice  of  the 
guide,  we  fastened  our  horses  at  no  great  distance  from 
the  fire  ; and  a loaded  rifle  was  kept  constantly  ready  to 
protect  them,  in  case  of  any  alarm  during  the  night. 

14th. — Endeavoured  to  start  at  daybreak;  but  my 
Scotch  servant  could  not  learn  to  balance  or  fasten  a pack 

Dd* 


318  ENORMOUS  RATTLE-SNAKE. 

on  a horse ; and  his  slow  awkwardness  cost  us  repeated 
and  vexatious  delays,  as  we  were  so  frequently  obliged 
to  stop  and  repack  the  animal  of  which  he  had  charge. 
This  man  was  a willing  and  well-conducted  servant  in 
civilized  life,  but  Nature  had  not  formed  him  for  a prairie 
hunter.  Our  American  lad  improved  every  day  in  ac- 
tivity  and  readiness,  and  his  good-humour  and  spirits 

gave  'me  much  satisfaction.  As  for  poor  V- , he 

could  sit  on  his  horse  and  eat  his  dinner ; but  he  still 
suffered  a good  deal  from  his  bruises,  and  could  not  3ml 
walk  : his  arm  was  in  a sling. 

I found  that  one  of  our  horses  was  lame — several 
werfe  rather  sore  in  the  back — and  1 recommended  both 
the  attendants  to  walk  at  least  half  the  day’s  journey,  as 
we  could  not  tell  what  urgent  necessity  for  a fresh  horse 
half  an  hour  might  create.  I went  this  morning,  on  foot, 
about  fourteen  miles  with  the  guide,  chatting  with  him 
in  broken  Pawnee,  filled  up  with  signs.  I observed  upon 
referring  to  my  compass,  that  he  was  going  north-east-; 
and,  upon  asking  him  the  reason,  he  pointed  to  the  east, 
and  said  that  there  was  no  water  there  for  us  to  camp 
by. 

The  country  we  w’ere  now  crossing  was  a succession 
of  barren  sandy  ridges.  Before  us,  at  the  distance  of 
half  a mile,  I remarked  a creek ; and,  on  asking  the 
guide  its  name,  was  told  that  it  was  called  Snake  river.* 
He  informed  us,  by  signs,  that  we  must  be  cautious,  for 
it  was  full  of  rattle-snakes.  While  I was  walking  be- 
side him,  talking  in  this  way,  he  gave  a sudden  yell,  so 
shrill  and  piercing,  that,  as  if  by  instinct,  I knew  it  was 
a warning,  and  leaped  on  one  side  as  far  as  I could 
spring.  On  looking  for  the  cause  of  this  sudden  cry,  I 
saw,  in  the  very  spot  where  my  next  step  wrould  have 
placed  my  leg,  an  enormous  rattle-snake  ; his  head  rear- 


* In  the  Pawnee,  as  in  other  Indian  languages,  the  substantive  is 
frequently  varied  in  preference  to  using  an  adjective  ; thus,  water  in  a 
bowl,  or  pot  for  drinking,  in  a pond,  running  or  river  water,  and  rain 
water,  are  all  distinct  and  separate  words.  The  same  is  observable  in 
many  nouns,  as  a female  child — a girl  from  seven  to  eleven — a young 
girl  (come  to  years  of  puberty) — a young  married  woman,  and  an  old 
married  woman,  are  also  different  words  in  some  languages  ; as  are.,, 
also,  generally,  elder  and  younger  brother. 


INDIAN  MANOEUVRE. 


319 


ed,  and  his  folds  coiled  below  him,  ready  for  a spring. 
He  was  giving  me,  too,  all  the  warning  in  his  power ; for 
he  was  rattling  so  clearly  and  loudly,  that  it  was  wonder- 
ful to  me  l had  not  heard  him.  I was  just  about  to  kill 
him,  but  the  guide  stopped  my  aim — pointed  gravely  to 
the  sky  and  to  himself,  and  indicated  to  me  that  it  was 
against  his  “ medicine.”*  Accordingly,  I desisted  ; re- 
flecting that,  in  all  probability,  neither  I,  nor  any  other 
white  man,  would  ever  hear  his  rattle  again  ; and  that 
killing  one,  in  a place  which  was  crowded  by  thousands, 
could  be  of  little  use. 

After  we  had  walked  on  a few  hundred  yards,  we  were 
about  to  descend  a small  narrow  ravine,  full  of  broken 
heaps  of  sandstone,  overgrown  with  coarse  herbs  and 
grasses.  The  Indian  told  me  to  go  straight  on  in  that 
direction,  as  he  wished  to  remain  behind  for  a moment. 
I thought  that  in  such  a rough  narrow  place,  where  In- 
dian file  was  necessarily  to  be  observed,  the  leader  of 
the  party  had  a better  chance  of  being  bitten  by  a snake 
than  any  of  those  who  followed  ; and  I moreover  thought 
that  the  same  idea  struck  my  friend  the  guide  ; but  I took 
no  notice  of  it  farther  than  to  tell  him  that,  being  in  no 
hurry,  I would  wait  for  him.  The  quiet  sly  expression 
of  his  face  did  not  alter ; but  I cannot  help  thinking  he 
was  aware  that  I saw  through  his  manoeuvre.  Accord- 
ingly, he  began  to  pick  his  way  carefully  down  the  ravine. 
My  servant,  in  the  rear,  had  about  this  time  a very  nar- 
row escape  from  another  snake.  I thought  it  better  to 
mount  my  horse,  and  recommended  the  others  to  do  the 
same,  although  the  place  was  very  rough  and  unpleasant 
for  riding,  owing  to  the  quantity  of  loose  sandstone  and 
high  coarse  grass.  I never  should  have  believed  it  pos- 
sible that  so  many  rattlesnakes  could  have  assembled 
together  as  I saw  in  that  ravine.  I think  there  must 
have  been  nearly  enough  to  fatten  a drove  of  Missouri 
hogs.f 

* This  same  prejudice  exists  in  several  bands  of  the  Osagcs  and 
Delawares,  as  well  as  among  other  tribes  in  the  more  remote  regions. 

t It  is  well  known  that,  in  the  western  states,  where  rattle-snakes  are 
still  plentiful,  the  hogs  kill  and  eat  them  ; nor  is  their  bite  formidable 
to  their  swinish  enemy,  on  whom  its  venomous  fangs  seem  to  produce 


320 


A BAT1I. 


As  soon  as  we  emerged  from  this  ravine,  I dismounted 
and  rejoined  the  guide,  from  whom,  ere  long,  I heard  the 
well-known  “ Ugh  !”  which  accompanies  the  sudden 
presentation  of  any  new  object  to  the  eye  of  an  Indian  ; 
and,  following  the  direction  of  his  finger,  saw  two  or 
three  antelopes  browsing  on  a hill  side  to  windward  of 
us.  As  they  had  not  yet  seen  our  party,  I halted  it,  and 
told  them  to  lie  down,  while  I would  try  and  stalk  one. 
After  creeping  for  some  distance,  I came  within  about 
a hundred  and  twenty  yards  of  one,  but  could  get  no 
•nearer  from  the  nature  of  the  ground.  However,  I took 
a steady  aim,  and  was  fortunate  enough  to  hit ; but  the 
antelope  went  off  on  three  legs,  and,  after  a tiresome 
pursuit,  I found  that  they  were  still  fleeter  than  my  two. 
So  I thought  I would  try  another  fashion,  and,  selecting 
a commanding  situation  on  a high  knoll,  sat  down  to 
watch  him  from  a distance.  This  plan  succeeded  ; for 
as  soon  as  he  saw  that  he  was  unpursued,  he  slackened 
his  pace,  and,  after  going  about  half  a mile,  lay  down. 
I could  distinctly  observe  all  his  movements  with  my 
telescope.  Having  carefully  noted  the  ground  near  him, 
to  assist  me  in  creeping  up,  and  allowed  time  for  the 
wound  to  become  stiff,  I again  went  after  him  ; and, 
having  succeeded  in  getting  unobserved  within  fifty  or 
sixty  yards,  another  shot  terminated  the  chase. 

The  rest  of  the  party  now  came  up,  and  the  dissection 
of  the  little  deer  did  not  occupy  much  time.  We  carried 
him  off  to  the  banks  of  the  creek ; and  while  the  feast 
was  preparing,  I determined  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  a 
bath  and  a change  of  clothes,  the  latter  having  been  a 
very  rare  metamorphosis  of  late,  and  the  suit  which  I 
wore  being  full  of  the  filthy  Pawnee  body-guard , which 
still  clung  to  all  our  clothes  and  buffalo  robes. 

I was  surprised  to  find  the  water  of  this  stream  so  ex- 
tremely salt ; notwithstanding  which  our  horses  drank  it 
with  such  avidity  that  we  were  afraid  of  their  injuring 
themselves,  and  with  the  greatest  difficulty  drove  them 
from  it.  The  sun  was  now  intensely  hot ; there  was  no 

no  effect.  It  is  owing  to  this  well-known  fact,  that  families  resident  in 
those  districts  conceive  that  hogs’  lard  must  be  a kind  of  antidote  to  their 
poison,  and  frequently  use  it  (I  believe  successfully)  as  a remedy. 


CONSULTATION. 


321 


shelter  from  its  rays  during  the  process  of  the  bath  or 
toilet ; but  altogether  I felt  it  to  be  a great  comfort  and 
luxury,  and  as  soon  as  it  was  over  went  in  high  spirits  to 
our  camping-place,  where  the  antelope  was  already 
dressed,  and  we  commenced  our  feast. 

Ere  this  was  half  despatched,  a number  of  buffalo 
came  rolling  and  bounding  over  the  small  hills  before  our 
our  camping-place,  in  such  confusion  and  at  such  speed 
that  we  were  immediately  aware  of  their  being  closely 
pursued  ; and  in  a few  minutes  two  or  three  hunters  ap- 
peared. As  soon  as  they  saw  our  party  they  halted  to 
examine  it:  our  two  Indians  talked  together,  and  instantly 
recognized  the  new-comers  as  Pawnees.  I wa3  much 
vexed  at  the  reappearance  of  these  fellows,  for  it  seem- 
ed as  if  we  should  never  get  rid  of  them  : the  propinquity 
of  these  straggling  parties,  unchecked  by  any  responsible 
chief,  is  sometimes  dangerous,  and  never  desirable. 
They  made  signs  to  our  guides  to  go  and  speak  with 
them  : a request  with  which  they  immediately  complied. 

I did  not  like  the  circumstance  of  these  hunters  keep- 
ing so  studiously  aloof  from  us  ; neither  did  I much  ap- 
prove of  the  conference  of  suspicious  duration  which 
they  held  with  our  guides.  When  the  latter  returned, 
they  were  silent  and  sulky  ; their  countrymen  gallopped 
off,  and  were  soon  lost  in  the  distance.  I could  easily 
perceive  that  some  very  sudden  as  well  as  strong  im- 
pression had  been  produced  by  this  talk,"  and  by  ob- 
serving and  listening  to  them  as  they  whispered  together, 
while  I pretended  to  speak  to  V , I became  con- 

vinced that  they  intended  to  desert  us.  The  short  bu.t 
significant  answers  which  I received  to  one  or  two  care- 
less questions  which  I put,  convinced  me  of  the  truth  of 
my  suspicions.  I therefore  summoned  a council  of  war, 
and  communicated  these  unpleasant  occurrences  to 

V , and  to  the  two  attendants.  I told  them,  that  in 

these  circumstances,  where  our  lives  might  depend  upon 
the  decision  we  should  adopt,  I considered  we  were  all 
equal  in  rank,  and  each  had  as  influential  a voice  as  his 
neighbour ; that  they  must  be  prepared  very  soon  to  de- 
cide whether  we  should  return  to  the  Pawnee  village  with 
these  rascally  guides,  or  endeavour  to  reach  Fort  Leaven- 


322 


DESERTION  OF  GUIDES. 


worth  without  them  ; and  I professed  my  own  willing- 
ness to  adopt  either  alternative  which  the  majority  might 
prefer.  After  a short  consultation,  they  were  unanimous 
iu  their  decisions  against  returning  to  the  Pawnees.  The 
recollection  of  the  filth,  the  vermin,  and  other  nuisances, 
to  which  they  must  return,  besides  the  very  doubtful 
nature  of  the  reception  we  might  meet  with,  now  that 
we  had  expended  all  our  trading  articles,  and  the  terms 
of  open  dislike  on  which  we  had  parted  from  the  two 
most  powerful  chiefs — all  these  were  conclusive  argu- # 
ments  against  the  expediency  of  revisiting  the  Pawnees; 
while  the  other  alternative  presented,  it  is  true,  great 
risks  and  difficulties,  but  of  a vague  and  unascertained 
nature. 

As  soon  as  this  question  was  decided,  I told  them  that 
one  of  our  party  must  take  upon  himself  the  office  and 
the  whole  responsibilities  of  a guide,  because,  if  every 
one’s  opinion  was  taken  as  to  routes,  directions,  and 
bearings,  we  should  never  reach  the  settlements ; and  I 
asked  if  any  of  them  wished  to  undertake  the  task. 
They  all  said  they  wished  me  to  undertake  it  myself.  I 
agreed  to  do  so,  upon  the  repeated  condition  that  I was 
to  conduct  them  as  I pleased  and  whither  I pleased  ; to 
choose  the  length  and  the  line  of  march  ; and  that  there 
was  to  be  neither  dispute  nor  contradiction  as  long  as  I 
retained  the  office. 

Having  settled  these  preliminaries,  in  order  to  be  pre- 
pared for  what  I expected,  I desired  the  Indian,  as  usual, 
to  catch  one  of  the  horses,  as  it  was  time  to  pursue  our 
march.  He  answered  shortly,  sulkily,  and  quite  dis- 
tinctly, that  he  would  not;  and  upon  my  making  the  sign 
that  I wished  him  to  explain  himself,  he  said  he  would 
not  go  any  farther — that  he  and  his  companion  would  go 
back  to  their  people — that  it  was  bad  to  proceed,  and 
they  would  not  do  it.  J confess  I felt  very  much  tempted 
to  tie  these  two  rascals  up,  and  give  them  a good  flogging 
(for  our  party  was  strong  enough  to  do  it) ; but  I thought 
it  more  prudent  to  let  them  alone;  for  as  soon  as  they 
could  get  away  and  collect  a band  of  Pawnees,  they 
would  certainly  have  followed  our  trail  to  take  revenge. 

I never  could  thoroughly  understand  the  motives 


DIFFICULT  SITUATION. 


323 


which  actuated  them  on  this  occasion  : that  their  resolu- 
tion was  occasioned  by  their  talk  with  the  other  Indians 
was  quite  evident ; but  I know  not  whether  they  had 
been  told  that  the  great  chief  was  angry  with  them  for 
guiding  us,  and  would  punish  them  if  they  went  on ; or 
that  hostile  war-parties  were  out  in  the  country  which 
we  were  about  to  traverse ; or  that,  by  refusing  to  pro- 
ceed, they  would  place  us  in  so  awkward  and  helpless  a 
predicament  that  we  should  double  their  promised  re- 
ward, and  agree  to  any  terms  which  they  might  propose. 
Whichever  of  these  reasons  influenced  their  conduct, 
they  certainly  were  not  a little  surprised  at  the  cool  in- 
difference with  which  V and  I received  the  an- 

nouncement of  their  intentions.  We  desired  our  white 
attendants  to  catch  and  pack  the  horses.  I then  turned 
to  the  two  Indians ; and,  with  the  most  contemptuous 
expression  of  countenance  and  gesture  that  I could  com- 
mand, told  them  “ that  they  were  bad  men,  liars,  and 
squaws,  and  they  must  immediately  get  up  and  leave  my 
camp.”  As  they  were  so  unprepared  for  this  turn  of 
affairs,  they  hesitated  a moment,  and  I repeated  to  them 
more  loudly  the  order  to  “go  and  tell  Sa-m-tsa-rish  that 
they  were  liars  and  squaws.  ’ They  muttered  something 
to  each  other,  inaudible  to  me,  and  slunk  off,  leaving  us 
seated  with  great  dignity  and  apparent  ease. 

As  soon  as  they  were  out  sight,  I confess  that  the 
perils  and  difficulties  of  our  situation  pressed  themselves 
most  forcibly  on  my  mind,  and  the  responsibility  that  I 
had  incurred  seemed  heavy  and  serious  indeed.  I re- 
membered that  I had  undertaken  to  guide  our  little  party 
through  six  or  seven  hundred  miles  of  barren  unknown 
wilderness,  where  I knew  not  whether  we  might  find 
water  for  ourselves  and  horses — where  we  were  liable, 
at  any  hour  of  the  day  or  night,  to  be  fallen  upon  by  some 
roving  band  of  strange  Indians,  and  where,  if  we  lost 
any  time  by  deviating  from  our  right  course,  our  pro- 
visions might  fail,  and  we  might  find  nothing  wherewith 
the  rifle  could  supply  their  place.  All  these  reflections 
suggested  themselves  in  rapid  succession  to  my  mind, 
but  I felt  how  vitally  necessary  were  energy  and  decision 


324 


DIFFICULT  SITUATION. 


of  action.  The  very  feeling  of  the  responsibility  of  my 
charge  gave  me  excitement,  and  I felt  a strong  and 
buoyant  confidence  that,  unless  some  unfortunate  acci- 
dent occurred,  I could  conduct  the  party  without  any 
great  deviation  to  the  fort : so,  with  my  telescope,  com- 
pass, and  rifle  ready  for  use,  I rode  on  a hundred  yards 
ahead,  and  began  my  career  as  guide. 


T 


/<V3 

l 4 3 

* ; 

RAVELS 


IN 

NORTH  AMERICA 

DURING 

THE  YEARS  1834,  1835,  & 1836. 


INCLUDING 

A SUMMER  RESIDENCE  WITH  THE  PAWNEE  TRIBE  OF 
INDIANS,  IN  THE  REMOTE  PRAIRIES  OF  THE  MISSOURI, 
AND  A VISIT  TO  CUBA  AND  THE  AZORE  ISLANDS 


bv 

THE  HON.  CHARLES  AUGUSTUS  MURRAY, 


“ Le  voyager  me  semble  un  exercise  profitable  : l’ame  y a une  contmuelle 
exercitation,  a remarquer  les  choses  incogmies  et  nouvelles  ; et  je  ne  s<jaohe 
pas  meilleure  escole  a fatjonner  la  vie  que  de  luy  proposer  incessamment  la 
diversite  de  tant  d’autres  fantasies  et  usances,  et  luy  faire  gouter  une  si 
perpetuelle  variete  de  forme  de  nostre  nature.” — Essais  de  Montaigne,  liv.  3, 
chap. ix. 


IN  TWO  VOLUMES. 

VOL.  II. 


NEW  YORK : 

HARPER  & BROTHERS,  82  CLIFF  STREET. 

1839. 


CONTENTS 


OF 

THE  SECOND  VOLUME. 


CHAPTER  I. 

The  River  of  Snakes. — Labyrinth  of  Hillocks. — Unfortunate  Com- 
mencement of  our  Journey. — Indications  of  a Tempest. — Prepara- 
tions for  passing  the  Night. — Awful  Storm. — Prairie  Wolves. — Dif- 
ficulty in  kindling  a Fire. — Halting-place. — Exploring  Excursion. — 
Buffalo  Tracks. — Supper. — Necessity  of  short  Allowance. — Buffalo 
Soup. — The  Night  Watch. — Precautions  against  being  Surprised. — 
Meditations  in  the  Wilderness. — Our  March  resumed. — A Disap- 
pointment.— Pools  of  Water. — Difficulty  in  collecting  our  Horses. — 
A Buffalo  shot. — Supply  of  Meat. — A Party  of  Indians  descried. — 
Plans  to  be  adopted  in  the  coming  Encounter. — Hostile  Appearances. 
— The  Meeting — its  pacific  Termination. — Comfortable  Camping- 
place.  ..........  Page  13 


CHAPTER  II. 

March  resumed — Our  Night  Camp. — False  Alarm. — Rules  for  Travel- 
ling in  the  Prairies. — Solitary  Indian  Traveller. — Indian  Trails. — 
Arrival  at  the  Banks  of  a large  Stream. — Herds  of  Antelopes. — Wild 
Grapes  and  Plums. — Culinary  Invention. — Watery  Labyrinth. — 
Discovery  of  an  Indian  Trail. — Pursuit  of  its  Course. — Loss  of  our 
Horses. — Search  for  and  Recovery  of  them. — Annoyance  by  Musqui- 
toes. — Discovery  of  a larger  Trail. — Determination  to  follow  it. — A 
Jungle. — Amusing  Perplexity. — Approach  to  the  Kanzas  River. — 
Gratitude  to  Heaven. — Exultation  of  the  Party. — Ruins  of  an  Indian 
Village. — Fording  the  River. — An  old  Indian  Camp. — Trouble  in 
making  a Fire. — My  new  patent  Grate. — Hot  Soup.  . 28 

CHAPTER  III. 

Uncomfortable  Night. — Our  wretched  Appearance  and  forlorn  Costume. 
— Unceasing  Rain. — Symptoms  of  Ague. — Fruitless  Hunt. — Conso- 
lation in  Disappointment. — Pursuit  of  the  Northern  Trail. — Lucky 
Discovery. — Arrival  at  our  old  Camping-place. — Diminution  of  our 
Provisions. — Forced  Marches. — Pursuit  of  a Flock  of  Turkeys  and 


CONTENTS. 


iv 


a Fawn. — A gray  Badger  shot  and  eaten. — A Thunder-storm. — Re- 
lics of  our  former  Halting-place. — Our  miserable  Plight. — Grouse,  or 
Prairie-hen. — Unsuccessful  Search  for  Deer — -A  Tangled  District. — 
Privations. — March  resumed. — Vicissitudes  of  Temperature. — Mer- 
riment of  the  younger  John. — Indian  Trails. — Horse-flies. — Flowers 
of  the  Prairie. — Approach  to  the  Missouri. — Welcome  Signs  of  Ci- 
vilization.— An  Amusing  Difficulty. — Hospitable  Reception  at  the 
Fort Page  43 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Epidemic  Fever  and  Ague. — Hospitality  of  Captain  Hunter.  — A 
noxious  Intruder. — Visit  to  the  Kickapoo  Village. — An  Indian 
Preacher  and  Prophet. — Restrictions  similar  to  those  in  the  Mosiac 
Law.. — Specimen  of  an  Indian  Sermon. — Pursuit  of  a Bear. — Sale  of 
my  Horses. — Embark  for  St.  Jjouis. — Dangerous  Navigation. — Paw- 
paws.— Unhealthy  Appearance  of  the  Missouri  Settlers. — Republican 
Equality. — Gambling  in  the  Steamboat. — Officers  of  the  United  States 
Army. — Frequency  of  Duels — Drunkenness  among  the  common 
Soldiers. — Insubordination  and  Desertion  in  the  Army. — Arrival  at 
St.  Louis. — Catholic  Church  there. — A French  Artist. — Dulness  at 
St.  Louis. — Jefferson  Barracks. — Old  French  Village. — The  Arsenal. 
— Hospitality  of  the  commanding  Officer. — Music  in  the  house  of  Mr. 
P.,  a German  resident  in  St.  Louis.  . . . * .59, 

CHAPTER  V. 

Embark  on  the  Mississippi. — Droll  Rencontre. — Subjection  of  Indian 
Tribes. — Keokuk. — Atrocious  Exploit. — Passing  the  Rapids. — Fort 
des  Moines. — Frequent  Desertions  from  this  Post. — River  Scenery. 
— Fort  Armstrong. — Fossil  Remains. — Galena. — Lead  Mines. — The 
Miners  : their  dissolute  Life. — Subscription  by  the  Irish  Liberty-boys. 
— Lynch  Law ; its  Origin. — Rate  of  Wages  among  the  Miners. — Price 
of  Provisions. — Hospitable  Reception  at  Prairie  du  Chein. — Hunting 
Expedition  to  Turkey  River. — Horrible  Tragedy.  . . .71 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Encampment  of  Winnebagoes. — Their  Lodges. — Women  of  the  Tribe. 
— Arrival  at  the  Painted  Rock. — March  into  the  Interior. — Our  Party 
reconnoitred  by  an  Indian. — Language  of  the  Winnebagoes. — A 
half-breed  Interpreter. — Hunting  Expedition  on  Turkey  River. — 
Stratagem  of  our  Indian  Neighbours. — Bee-hunting. — A Stag  bathing. 
— Disappointment. — Search  for  Deer. — A Doe  shot. — Prairies  and 
Woods  set  on  fire  by  the  Indians. — Critical  Situation. — A Forest 
Conflagation. — Prairie  Wolves. — Return  to  the  Fort. — Fallacious 
Assertions. — Tribes  in  the  Neighbourhood  of  the  Fort. — An  Excur- 
sion.— Ascent  of  a steep  Bluff. — Reception  in  a Log-hut. — Fertile 
District. — Beautiful  Woodland  Scene.  . . . . .85 


CONTENTS. 


V 


CHAPTER  VII. 

An  English  Settler. — Search  for  Deer. — Excursion  to  Dubuques. — 
Ri,ver  Platte. — Crossing  the  Ferry. — The  Ferryman’s  Extortion. — 
Ramble  among  the  Mountains  ; its  Excitement. — “ Awkward  Slue.” 
— Deer  Feeding. — Practice  in  Woodcraft. — Beautiful  Scene. — Din- 
ner in  the  Ferryman’s  House. — A Western  Twilight. — Arrival  at  Du- 
buques.— Company  in  the  Bar-room  of  the  Tavern. — Meeting  with 
Dr.  M.  of  the  United  States  Army. — Our  Dormitory. — Singular  Dia- 
logue.— Theft  rare  in  the  Towns  on  the  Mississippi. — Mines  near 
Dubuques. — Religious  Service  in  the  Town. — A Bully. — Whimsical 
Delusion. — Tomb  of  a Spanish  Miner. — Mr.  F.,  the  Geologist. — 
Arrival  at  St.  Louis. — Mean  Extortion.  . . . Page  99 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Society  of  St.  Louis. — A Ball. — The  Waltz. — Musical  Accomplish- 
ments of  my  Hostess. — Independent  Hack-driver. — Singular  Charac- 
ter.— Leave  St.  Louis. — Travelling  Party. — Embark  in  “ The  Far 
West.”— -Icy  Obstructions  in  the  River — Visit  to  our  Friends  at  the 
Arsenal. — Irish  in  America. — Mishaps. — Ignorant  Pilot. — Mouth  of 
the  Ohio. — Shores  of  the  Mississippi. — Mouth  of  the  Arkansas. — 
Change  of  Climate. — Vicksburgh. — Big  Black  Creek. — Natchez. — 
Comfortable  Assurance. — Miserable  Road. — The  Upper  Town. — 
Public  Buildings. — The  Theatre. — The  Audience. — The  Perform- 
ance.— Drunken  Indians. — Leave  Natchez. — Mouth  of  Red  River. — 
December  Scenery  and  Temperature. — New  Orleans.  . .114 

CHAPTER  IX. 

First  Appearance  of  New  Orleans. — Lodgings. — Public  Buildings. — 
Society. — Theatres. — Creole  Ball. — Creole  Beauty. — Cotton-press- 
ing.— Motley  Population. — The  Battle  Field. — Pont  ^Chartrain. — 
Suburbs  of  the  City. — Leave  New  Orleans. — Change  of  Climate. — 
A Polish  Jew. — Dangerous  Rocks. — The  New  Year. — Harbour  of 
Havana. — Regulations  on  Landing. — Former  and  Present  State  of 
Havana. — Military  Force  in  Cuba. — The  Town  of  Havana. — Public 
Ball. — Spanish  Boarding-house. — Beautiful  Italian. — An  Excursion. 
— Visit  to  the  Governor. — Performers  at  the  Italian  Opera, — The 
Theatre. — The  Audience. — Effective  Police  System. — The  Garrotte. 
— Execution  of  Culprits. — Streets  of  Havana. — Idlers. — Manufac- 
ture of  Cigars 12£ 

CHAPTER  X. 

Tour  in  the  Country. — Our  Cortege. — The  Road. — Aspect  of  the  Coun- 
try.— Changes  of  Soil. — Equipment  of  Equestrian  Farmers. — Singu- 
lar Mode  of  Travelling. — Arrival  at  our  Journey’s  End. — Don  Dio- 
nysio  Mantilla’s  House  and  Sugar  Plantation. — Preparation  of  Su- 
gar.— Distillation  of  Brandy  from  Molasses. — Village  of  Marielli. — 
Fine  Prospect. — Friendly  Reception. — Aquatic  Excursion. — District 
of  St.  Marc’!. — Mr.  C ’s  Plantation. — His  Hospitality. — Coffee 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


Plantation. — Tenure  of  Property  in  Cuba — Return  to  Havana. — 
Another  Excursion. — Family  of  Montalvo. — Strange  Inconsistencies. 
— A Cuban  Dinner. — The  Dessert. — Rambles  in  the  Neighbourhood 
of  San  Ignacio. — Journey  to  Matanzas.- — A pretty  Village. — Speci- 
mens of  Spanish  Beauty. — Rustic  Ball. — Arrival  at  Matanzas. — My 
Host. — Cure  for  Fever.  ......  Page  147 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Town  of  Matanzas. — Excursions  on  Horseback. — Fertile  Valley. — 
Day-dreams. — Cock-fight. — Lofty  Mountain — Ascent  to  its  Summit. 
— Magnificent  Prospect. — Forest  Trees. — Trails  of  Runaway  Ne- 
groes — Different  Tribes  of  African  Slaves  imported  into  Cuba. — 
Congou  Musical  Instruments. — Negro  Suicide. — Return  to  Havana. 
— Mercantile  Excitement  produced  by. a sudden  Rise  in  the  Price  of 
Sugar. — Management  of  a Sugar  Estate  in  Cuba. — The  Carnival. — 
Bull-fight. — The  Italian  Opera. — Tertullias. — Gay  Scene  in  the  Plaza 
de  Armas. — Commerce  and  Statistics. — Treaty  for  the  Abolition  of 
Slavery. — Dinner  with  the  Governor. — The  New  Prison. — Masked 
Balls. — Leave  Havana. — Sail  for  Charleston. — A Storm. — Arrival  in 
the  Harbour. — Hospitable  Reception. — Letters  from  Home.  . 169 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Charleston. — Hospitality  of  the  Inhabitants. — The  Carolinian  Charac- 
ter.— Change  in  the  Law  of  Primogeniture. — Education. — College 
at  West  Point. — Republicanism  of  Charleston. — Tone  of  Society. — 
Saintly  Newspaper  Editors. — Sail  for  Norfolk. — Arrival  there. — A 
Race. — Passage  from  Norfolk. — American  Seamen. — Night  Scene  on 
board  the  Steamer. — Arrival  at  Washington. — Debates  in  Congress. 
— Diplomatic  Dinners. — General  Jackson. — Mr.  Van  Buren. — Me- 
diation of  Great  Britain  between  the  United  States  and  France. — 
Proceed  to  Baltimore. — Commerce  of  that  City  — Philadelphia  ; its 
Society  and  Hospitality. — Route  to  New  York. — Indian  Excitement. 
— Threatening  Aspect  of  Indian  Affairs. — American  State  Militia. — 
Streets  of  New  York. — Dinner  given  by  the  St.  George’s  Society. — 
Races  on  Long  Island. — Visit  to  a Friend’s  Country  Seat  on  the 
Banks  of  the  Hudson. — Return  to  New  York.  . . . 186 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Institutions  and  Society  in  the  United  States. — Importance  of  the 
Labouring  Class. — Non-existence  of  Pauperism. — State  of  Crime. — 
Education. — Political  Institutions  of  America. — Slavery  in  the  United 
States. — Contradiction  in  the  Theory  of  American  Government. — 
Expedient  for  the  gradual  Extinction  of  Slavery. — Its  Non-efficiency. 
— State  of  Religion  in  America. — The  Voluntary  System. — Religious 
Sects. — American  Society. — Education. — Style  of  Oratory  in  Con- 
gress.— Officers  of  the  Army  and  Navy. — American  Ladies. — Intona- 
tion of  Voice. — Academies. — Independent  Manner  and  Opinion  of 
American  Ladies. — Marriage. — National  Vanity.  . . . 199 


CONTENTS. 


Vll 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Vexatious  Disappointment.  — Sail  for  Elizabeth-town.  — Proceed  to 
Plainfields  and  Flemington. — Beauty  of  the  Country. — Addition  to 
our  Party. — Journey  toward  the  Alleghanies. — Nation  of  the  Dela- 
wares.— The  River  Delaware. — Immense  Forest. — A Rattlesnake. — 
Valley  of  Lackawana. — Anthracite  Coal. — Valley  of  Wyoming. — 
Coal  Mine. — Return  to  Flemington. — Purchase  of  Live  Stock. — 
Embark  for  New  York. — Gambling  Excitement. — The  great  Racing 
Match. — Excursion  to  the  West. — Stay  at  Newburgh. — Start  for 
Albany. — Poughkeepsie. — Wedding  Party. — Hyde  Park. — Glorious 
Landscape. — Kinderhook. — A wet  Ride. — Albany. — Dutch  Church. 
— Falls  of  Cohoes. — ThePatroon’s  House  and  Family. — Lake  Otsego. 
— Hyde  Hall. — Cooper’s  Town — Dinner  with  Mr.  Cooper,  the  cele- 
brated Novelist. — Prosperity  of  the  Towns  between  New  York  and 
Buffalo. — Terms  of  political  Abuse. — Oneida  Indians. — Canandaigua. 
— Journey  resumed.  . . . • . . . Page  220 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Falls  of  Genesee. — Commerce  versus  Romance. — Captain  Jones. — Ap- 
proach to  Ithaca. — The  Town. — Railroad  to  Owego. — The  Wind- 
Gap. — Easton. — Patios  of  the  District. — Episcopal  Church — Ride 
to  Bethlehem. — A German  Emigrant. — Embark  for  New  York. — 
Preparations  for  Return  to  England. — Embark  in  “The  Oxford.” — 
Party  in  the  Cabin. — Hill,  the  American  Comedian. — Prosperous 
Voyage. — Home.  .........  237 


TRAVELS 


IN 

THE  UNITED  STATES,  etc. 


CHAPTER  I. 


The  River  of  Snakes. — Labyrinth  of  Hillocks. — Unfortunate  Coni' 
mencement  of  our  Journey. — Indications  of  a Tempest. — Prepara- 
tions for  passing  the  Night. — Awful  Storm. — Prairie  Wolves. — Dif- 
ficulty in  kindling  a Fire. — Halting-place. — Exploring  Excursion. — 
Buffalo  Tracks. — Supper. — Necessity  of  short  Allowance. — Buffalo 
Soup. — The  Night  Watch. — Precautions  against  being  Surprised. — 
Meditations  in  the  Wilderness. — Our  March  resumed. — A Disap- 
pointment.— Pools  of  Water. — Difficulty  in  collecting  our  Horses. — 
A Buffalo  shot. — Supply  of  Meat. — A Party  of  Indians  descried. — 
Plans  to  be  adopted  in  the  coming  Encounter. — Hostile  Appearances. 
— The  Meeting — its  pacific  Termination. — Comfortable  Camping- 
place. 

I could  not  have  entered  on  my  arduous  office  under 
more  unpropitious  circumstances,  for  the  river,  by  the 
side  of  which  we  had  taken  our  mid-day  meal,  flowed 
many  degrees  farther  toward  the  south  than  the  course 
which  I wished  to  follow,  beside  which,  its  waters  were 
very  salt,  and  its  banks  afforded  perpetual  testimony  to 
the  propriety  of  its  name,  as  termed  by  the  Indians, 
“ The  River  of  Snakes” — so  that  I was  most  anxious  to 
leave  it,  and  to  find  a more  desirable  stream  from  which 
to  drink,  and  whose  course  should  be  more  favourable  to 
our  contemplated  journey ; but  as  I remembered  hear- 
ing the  Indians  say  that  there  was  no  water  within  a 
day’s  march  to  the  north,  I scarcely  thought  it  prudent 
to  leave  altogether  the  saline  river  of  snakes. 

Nor  did  my  difficulties  end  here,  for  never  since  we 
Vol.  II. — B 


14 


UNFORTUNATE  BEGINNING. 


entered  the  prairies  of  the  West,  had  we  been  entangled 
in  such  a labyrinth  of  steep,  irregular,  and  broken  ridges 
as  those  which  obstructed  our  progress  when  we  at- 
tempted to  leave  the  course  of  the  stream.  As  soon  as 
one  height  was  attained,  another  and  a higher  arose  be- 
fore us.  In  the  ascent,  the  packs  slipped  over  our 
mules’  and  horses’  tails  ; in  the  descent,  over  their  necks 
and  ears.  It  was  in  vain  that  I halted  my  party,  and 
rode  to  the  right  and  the  left ; I could  find  no  practica- 
ble escape  from  this  tumultuous  and  confused  mass  of 
hillocks,  which  were  not  (as  is  usually  the  case  with  the 
heights  in  the  western  prairies)  in  a regular  succession 
of  ridges,  like  the  Atlantic  in  a gale  of  wind,  but  like  the 
short,  broken,  irregular  seas,  raised  by  heavy  squalls 
from  opposite  quarters  in  the  Irish  channel. 

I soon  found  that  the  shades  of  night  would  overtake 
us  in  this  disagreeable  situation  unless  I again  directed 
our  course  to  Snake  River,  which  I reluctantly  did,  and 
we  encamped  at  a place  not  more  than  four  or  five  miles 
south-east  from  the  spot  where  the  guides  had  left  us, 
having  performed  a most  difficult  and  fatiguing  march  of 
as  many  hours. 

I confess  I was  much  disheartened  ; I could  not  but 
feel  that  this  unfortunate  beginning  would  prevent  the 
party  from  having  any  confidence  in  my  capacity  as 
guide,  and  I was  afraid  that  I might  either  have  under- 
rated the  difficulties  of  the  office,  or  overrated  my  own 
power  of  obviating  them  ; however,  as  I had  undertaken 
it  not  from  any  foolish  vanity,  but  from  necessity  and  at 
the  request  of  my  companions,  I determined  not  to  be 
cast  down  by  my  first  failure  ; but  to  redouble  my  ex- 
ertions on  the  morrow,  and  restore  their  confidence  and 
my  own. 

Meantime,  there  was  enough  occupation  before  us  to 
banish  all  speculative  meditations,  for  ihe  huge  heavy 
masses  of  black  cloud  were  gathering  in  the  north-west ; 
our  small  experience  was  sufficient  to  teach  us,  that  they 
were  charged  with  storm  and  tempest,  and  it  was  evi- 
dent. that  we  should  scarcely  have  time  to  collect  wood 
and  make  our  fire,  prepare  and  swallow  our  supper,  se- 
cure our  horses,  and  shelter  ourselves  and  baggage,  as 


AWFUL  STORM. 


15 


well  as  our  means  would  permit,  before  we  might  expect 
a repetition  of  the  drenching  which  we  had  undergone 
two  nights  before. 

All  these  various  avocations,  divided  only  among  four, 
kept  our  hands  tolerably  full ; fire-wood  was  very  scarce, 
and  it  was  evident  that,  although  we  might  collect  enough 
to  provide  our  supper,  it  was  hopeless  to  attempt  gather- 
ing such  a supply  as  might  contend  with  the  wet  night 
which  threatened  us  ; however,  we  completed  our  pre- 
parations, ate  some  dried  buffalo  meat,  and  drank  a pot 
of  coffee,  rolled  ourselves  up  in  skins,  and  spread  the  tent 
loose  over  our  persons  and  baggage,  taking  special  care 
to  wrap  many  folds  of  hide  round  the  flour  and  ammuni- 
tion ; we  then  crept  all  close  together,  so  as  to  borrow 
and  lend  each  other  warmth,  and  thus  awaited  patiently 
the  expected  deluge. 

We  were  not  kept  long  in  suspense  ; the  black  curtain 
of  cloud  had  now  spread  over  the  whole  north-west  quar- 
ter of  the  heavens.  The  steady  and  awful  march  of  the 
god  of  storms  came  on,  accompanied  by  his  own  dread 
and  magnificent  music,  the  blasts  of  rushing  and  roaring 
wind,  and  the  heavy  rolling  peals  of  thunder.  The  at- 
tack was  commenced  by  a few  large  drops  of  rain,  which 
fell  irregularly ; soon,  however,  the  great  flood-gates 
were  opened,  and  their  waters  let  loose  upon  our  house- 
less and  ill-protected  party.  For  some  time  our  buffalo 
and  bear  skins  made  a stout  resistance  ; but  it  was  of  no 
avail, — small  streams  were  running  in  every  direction, 
whilst  every  little  hollow  became  a puddle,  so  that,  ere 
long,  we  had  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  we  were 
thoroughly  soaked,  and  consequently  free  from  any  fur- 
ther anxiety  about  the  rain. 

As  we  were  huddled  closely  together,  we  did  not  feel 
much  annoyance  from  cold,  at  least  I can  answer  for 
myself,  inasmuch  as  I found  time  to  admire  the  ter- 
rible magnificence  of  the  scene,  the  effect  of  which 
was  heightened  by  the  prolonged  echoes  of  the  thunder 
among  the  heights  opposite  to  our  camp  ;*  while,  as  a 

* This  word  is  so  universally  in  use  by  western  travellers,  in  the  sense 
of  kny  halting  or  sleeping  place,  (whether  tents  have  been  pitched  or 
not,)  that  I must  be  excused  if,  from  habit,  I generally  use  it  in  this  ex- 
tended signification,. 


16 


HALTING  PLACE 


kind  of  accompaniment  to  its  desolation,  a pack  of  prairie 
wolves,  at  no  great  distance  from  us,  seemed  to  complain 
of  cold,  wet,  and  hunger,  in  their  whining  monotonous 
howl,  which  reached  us  in  a louder  or  in  ji  lower  key, 
according  as  the  sound  was  borne  along  by  the  eddying 
blasts  which  swept  down  the  broken  ravines  around  us. 
Even  after  the  fiist  fury  of  the  storm  had  expended  it- 
self, a heavy  rain  continued  to  fall  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  night.  I suppose  that  none  of  us  slept  much, 
and  that  we  welcomed  with  no  little  joy  the  early  rays 
of  the  sun,  which  came  to  dissipate  at  once  the  watery 
clouds  and  the  shades  of  night. 

Considering  that  activity  and  exertion  were  our  only 
safeguards  against  rheumatism,  I jumped  up,  and  de- 
sired the  men  to  assist  in  making  a fire.  This  was  not 
an  easy  matter,  as  all  the  wood  which  we  could  pick  up 
was  saturated  withwTater;  however,  by  splitting  some 
of  the  larger  pieces,  we  succeeded  in  taking  from  the 
interior  portions  a few  dry  chips,  and  half-an-hour’s 
nursing  and  blowing  produced  an  infant  blaze,  which, 
with  continued  care,  was  .soon  large  enough  to  boil  us  a 
pot  of  coffee.  I found  that  neither  of  our  attendants  ob- 
jected much  to  this  part  of  the  day’s  duty,  for,  while  thus 
fostering  the  fire,  they  were  at  the  same  time  warming 
their  own  cold  fingers  and  persons.  My  Scotch  servant 
complained  much  of  sundry  pains  in  his  back  and  body; 
I could  give  him  no  better  relief  or  advice  than  to  jump 
and  rub  the  blood  into  circulation,  and  to  drink  a cup  of 
hot  coffee. 

Indeed,  when  I reflected  upon  the  strange  contrast  of 
our  present  mode  of  life,  as  compared  with  our  usual 
habits  in  society  ; when  I recollected  what  severe  colds 
are  produced  by  sitting  an  hour  or  two  with  wet  feet,  or 
sleeping  in  sheets  only  rather  damp ; and  then  looked 
upon  our  present  party,  after  we  had  been  lying  for  se- 
ven or  eight  hours  without  a fire,  and  perfectly  soaked 
through,  I could  not  help  feeling  surprised,  and  I hope  I 
may  add  grateful,  for  the  health  which  we  had  enjoyed, 
and  which  we  still  preserved.  I had  slept  on  my  black 
bear-skin,  which  is  almost  impervious  to  wet ; but  when 
J rose  this  morning,  there  were  puddles  of  water  on  it 


EXPLORING  EXCURSION. 


17 


(especially  where  my  elbow  and  hip  had  rested)  of  se- 
veral inches  in  depth. 

As  the  ground  wras  too  humid  to  admit  of  our  going 
through  the  necessary  operation  of  spreading  and  drying 
all  our  skins,  I thought  it  better  to  follow  the  course  of 
the  stream  for  some  miles,  so  as  to  find  a camping-place 
where  we  might  more  easily  obtain  fire-wood  for  our  noon 
meal ; and  while  the  rest  of  the  party  were  drying  them- 
selves and  baggage,*  I might  explore  the  surrounding 
country,  to  see  what  facilities  its  formation  afforded  for 
our  proposed  north-east  route.  We  moved  on,  accord- 
ingly, to  a spot  seven  or  eight  miles  east,  where  two  old 
dead  trees  offered  us  a store  of  good  fire-wood,  while  the 
short  dry  grass  had,  under  the  influence  of  the  sun,  lost 
all  traces  of  the  previous  night’s  rain. 

I determined  to  halt  the  parly  here  all  the  rest  of  the 
day  ; and,  begging  them  to  have  a good  supper  for  me  on 
my  return,  set  off  on  my  exploring  excursion,  armed  with 
compass  and  rifle.  The  bluffs,  which  formed  the  sides 
of  the  valley,  were  less  high  and  abrupt  here  than  above, 
and  seemed  to  offer  a better  prospect  of  escape  through 
some  defile.  After  scrambling  to  the  top  of  the  highest 
which  I could  find,  I sat  down  to  take  a general  survey. 
My  first  object  was  to  ascertain  the  course  of  the  stream 
on  which  we  had  camped  : by  the  aid  of  my  telescope  I 
could  distinctly  see  that,  about  four  or  five  miles  lower 
down,  it  took  a great  bend  to  the  south,  as  I could  trace 
its  course  for  a great  distance  in  that  direction  by  the 
valley  that  it  formed,  slightly  fringed  with  the  green  of 
the  alder  and  poplar. 

I was  now  convinced  that  it  was  a tributary,  not  of  the 
Kanzas,  but  of  the  Arkansas,  and  that  we  must  at  all 
events  leave  it  on  the  following  morning ; so  I com- 
menced my  search  for  a practicable  route  to  the  north  or 
north-east.  I found  a great  many  fresh  buffalo  tracks, 
and  a few  lazy  stragglers  from  the  herd  still  lingered  in 
sight ; I saw  also  several  wolves  and  antelopes,  and  of 

* A heavy  night’s  rain  is  a very  serious  hindrance  on  a prairie  jour- 
ney, to  those  who  have  no  tent  nor  lodge  to  protect  the  baggage  ; for  if 
the  buffalo-skins  and  packed  meat  are  not  spread  in  the  sun  and  tho- 
roughly dried,  it  will  not  be  long  before  they  both  rot  and  spoil. 

B* 


18 


SUPPER. 


these  latter  I tried  several  times  to  kill  one,  but  could  not 
succeed.  At  length  I came  to  a very  large  buffalo  track 
leading  due  north ; and  upon  following  it  for  some  dis- 
tance, was  convinced  that,  although  passing  through  a 
very  rough  stony  gorge,  it  was  selected  with  the  instinc- 
tive sagacity  of  those  hairy  travellers,  and  thence  I infer- 
red, that  at  some  less  distance  than  thirty  or  forty  miles, 
their  track  would  lead  us  to  water. 

Having,  accordingly,  noted  this  defile  by  several  land- 
marks, that  I might  remember  it  on  the  morrow,  I 
returned  to  camp,  and  found,  to  my  great  consolation,  a 
large  pot  of  good  buffalo-soup  simmering  over  the  fire, 
which  ray  companions  were  about  to  attack.  The  wet- 
ting of  the  preceding  night  was  forgotten,  the  skins  were 
nearly  dry,  and  our  hot  supper,  succeeded  by  a pipe, 
closed  the  day  most  comfortably ; and  as  for  the  night, 
the  old  trees  had  been  made  to  furnish  from  their  limbs 
wherewithal  to  warm  our  own. 

Upon  calculating,  as  well  as  I was  able,  the  distance 
between  this  spot  and  Fort  Leavenworth,  I thought  we 
might  hope,  barring  serious  accidents,  to  reach  it  in 
eighteen  or  twenty  days ; and  upon  comparing  this 
computation  with  our  stock  of  provisions,  it  became 
evident  that  retrenchment  must  be  the  order  of  the  day, 
especially  in  the  use  of  our  small  bag  of  flour,  upon 
measuring  which,  with  our  tin  cups,  we  found  it  to  con- 
tain about  ten  quarts.  It  does  not  require  a very  ex- 
perienced baker  to  show  that,  if  we  attempted  to  furnish 
bread  to  four  men  out  of  this  stock,  even  allowing  six 
ounces  to  each  per  diem , it  would  very  soon  be  ex- 
hausted, and  I suggested  an  expedient  which  succeeded 
beyond  our  most  sanguine  expectations  ; it  was  simply 
this,  to  give  up  altogether  our  fried  flour  cakes,  and  to 
make  our  morning  and  evening  meal  consist  of  a pot  of 
buffalo-broth,  into  which  we  could  still  afford  to  throw  a 
few  beans  and  grains  of  maize.  When  the  whole  was 
well-boiled  and  ready  for  table , while  it  was  yet  simmer- 
ing over  the  fire,  we  took  half  a pint  of  flour,  and  dropped 
it  slowly  into  the  soup,  stirring  the  latter  with  a spoon  or 
stick ; in  this  manner  it  soon  became  as  soft  and  thick 
as  gruel,  and  we  all  found  it  a most  palatable  and 


THE  N1GIIT  WATCH. 


19 


nutritious  food ; thus  used,  a pint  of  flour  among  four 
men  is  a sufficient  allowance,  and  will  satisfy  hunger  as 
much  as  two  or  three  quarts  made  into  bread  or  cakes. 
We  discovered  another  excellent  quality  in  this  thick 
soup  ; that  it  allayed,  or  rather  prevented,  the  cravings 
of  thirst  for  a longer  period  than  any  other  food ; for 
although  the  weather  was  someiimes  oppressively  hot, 
and  the  sun’s  rays  very  powerful  on  the  unshaded  prairie, 
I could  ride  from  our  breakfast  hour,  which  was  daylight, 
until  we  camped  for  the  evening,  without  experiencing 
aiiy  inconvenience  from  the  want  of  water,  if  we 
happened  not  to  pass  near  to  any  stream  or  pond. 

On  the  night  of  the  15th  we  slept  very  comfortably, 
nothing  occurring  lo  break  our  slumbers  except  a pack 
of  wolves  in  full  cry  after  a deer,  which  went  along  the 
brow  of  the  heights  at  no  great  distance  from  us,  arous- 
ing mingled  echoes  which  would  have  transported  any 
keen  fox-hunter  in  imagination  to  the  side  of  a gorse- 
cover  in  merry  England.  However,  there  was  one 
annoyance  to  which  I felt  it  my  duty  to  subject  the 
party,  and  this  was,  keeping  a watch  all  night; — sleep 
is  a very  good  thing,  but  safety  is  a better.  I knew  not 
what  parties  of  Indians  might  be  out  in  this  wild  region  ; 
even  if  they  did  not  hit  on  our  trail,  our  fire,  which  we 
could  not  dispense  with,  would  surely  betray  us,  and 
there  is  no  mark  on  earth  which  would  be  so  fine  a piece 
of  sport  for  a straggling  war-party  as  four  men  sleeping 
comfortably  round  a fire,  the  light  of  which  would  ena- 
ble an  enemy  to  take  sure  aim,  ar.d  to  secure  their 
victims  without  risk  or  contest.  I remembered  also  the 
warnings  of  old  Sanitsarish,  about  “ sleeping  with  one 
eye  open,”  and  therefore  felt  obliged,  however  unwil- 
lingly, to  keep  regular  watch,  which  is  a heavy  addition 
to  the  fatigue  of  a party  consisting  only  of  four. 

The  arrangements  I made  were  as  follows  : — After 
finishing  our  supper  and  pipes,  I selected  a spot  twenty 
or  thirty  yards  from  the  fire,  but  quite  removed  from  its 
light,  commanding  as  good  a view  as  possible  of  the 
neighbouring  ground,  so  that  nothing  could  approach 
very  near  without  being  seen  or  heard  ; here  I spread  my 
large  bear-skin,  and  laid  out  my  double  rifle  and  a double 


20 


MARCH  RESUMED. 


gun,  (the  former  loaded  with  ball,  the  latter  with  slugs 
or  buck-shot,)  and  two  or  three  buffalo-skins  to  keep  the 
guard  warm  while  undergoing  this  temporary  banish- 
ment from  the  fire.  Whether  we  were  to  watch  in  pairs 
or  singly,  we  arranged  among  ourselves  according  as  we 
felt  sleepy  or  in  a humour  for  a chat;  each  watch  con- 
sisted of  two  hours,  though  sometimes,  by  mutual  agree- 
ment, we  divided  the  night  into  two  halves. 

I never  felt  so  much  disposed  for  gentle  thoughts,  or 
for  serious  meditation,  as  while  lying  thus,  in  the  midst 
of  a trackless  wilderness,  with  no  sound  to  divert  my 
attention  save  the  fitful  howling  of  the  wolves,  and  with 
my  eyes  fixed  upon  the  illimitable  vault  above,  peopled 
with  starry  worlds  ; so  long  and  so  earnestly  would  I 
gaze  at  them,  that,  without  the  aid  of  science,  the  re- 
lative position  of  many  of  them  became  familiar  to  me. 
I endeavoured  to  distinguish  the  various  clusters  and 
constellations  from  the  “ wandering  fires  that  move  in 
mystic  dance,  not  without  song and  while  thus  con- 
templating their  infinite  number  and  harmonious  march, 
I felt  that  they  are  indeed  the  poetry  of  heaven,  and  with 
a language  mightier  than  speech,  declare  the  glory  of 
their  Maker.  Such  meditations,  while  they  elevate  the 
mind  above  the  coarser  pleasures  and  occupations  of 
life,  tend,  at  the  same  time,  to  waken  the  memory  and 
soften  the  heart  to  its  more  tender  associations  ; and  there 
is  no  time  or  place  where  beloved  and  distant  friends  are 
more  affectionately  remembered,  than  on  the  wanderer’s 
solitary  bear-skin  couch  in  the  wilderness. 

On  the  16th  we  took  a good  breakfast  of  our  thick 
soup  at  dawn ; and,  desiring  the  men  to  fill  two  empty 
bottles  which  remained  to  us,  with  water,  and  to  put 
some  also  into  the  coffee-pot,  started  in  the  direction  of 
the  buffalo  track  which  I had  yesterday  selected.  We 
soon  reached  it,  and  wound  our  way  up  the  long  defile 
with  no  little  fatigue  and  difficulty,  especially  among  the 
pack-horses,  which  were  able  to  crawl  only  very  slowly 
up  some  of  the  steeper  parts  of  the  ascent.  As  I kept 
always  several  hundred  yards  in  advance  of  the  party,  in 
order  to  select  and  to  point  out  the  best  line  of  march,  I 
thereby  had  a better  chance  of  shooting  any  stray  buffalo 


POOLS  OF  WATER. 


21 


or  antelope  which  might  be  near  our  route.  On  this  day 
I saw  a good  many  of  the  latter  ; they  were  very  shy, 
but  after  several  unsuccessful  attempts  I shot  one,  and 
took  only  the  saddle,  as  I did  not  wish  to  add  to  the  load 
of  our  horses,  several  of  wrhich  were  so  jaded,  and  galled 
in  the  back,  that  I much  feared  that,  without  extreme 
care,  they  would  never  reach  the  settlements. 

We  pursued  our  march  till  noon  in  a direction  nearly 
north  ; this  was  much  out  of  our  line  fur  the  fort,  but  I 
felt  sure  that  we  should  thereby  come  sooner  to  water 
than  if  I had  gone  east-north-east.  After  halting  for  an 
hour  to  rest  ourselves  and  horses,  we  resumed  our  pro- 
gress, which  we  continued  many  hours  without  seeing 
any  symptoms  of  a river  or  stream,  except  one  small  line 
of  alders.  I halted  the  party  while  I went  to  examine 
it,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  finding  the  dry  bed  of  what 
may  be  a very  pretty  stream  in  early  spring,  but  upon 
the  sand  and  stones  of  which  the  rays  of  the  hot  sun 
were  now  reflected  with  increased  intensity.  This  was 
not  a consolatory  prospect  for  the  heated  and  thirsty  tra- 
veller, so  I had  nothing  to  do  but  put  a bullet  in  my 
mouth  (from  which  I experienced  some  relief),  and  re- 
turn to  my  party. 

Toward  the  evening  I again  observed  indications  of 
water  in  the  distance  ; and  on  repeating  the  same  experi- 
ment, was  delighted  to  find  in  several  parts  of  the  dry 
river  bed  fresh  tracks  of  buffaloes,  and  some  symptoms 
of  moisture  ; this  convinced  me  that  a search  would  be 
rewarded  ; accordingly  I had  not  proceeded  along  its 
course  more  than  a quarter  of  a mile  before  I found  a 
large  hole  or  hollow,  in  which  the  water  was  not  dried 
up ; on  tasting  it  I found  it  warm  and  somewhat  disa- 
greeable from  stagnation,  but  I knew  that  neither  man 
nor  horse  was  in  a mood  to  be  very  nice.  I accordingly 
went  to  the  top  of  a small  hillock  and  made  them  signs 
to  advance,  which  they  were  not  slow  in  obeying. 

When  they  arrived,  I was  afraid  that  they  would  drink 
up  the  puddle  altogether  ; but  having  secured  this  as  a 
dernier  resort , I prosecuted  my  search  down  the  stream, 
and  soon  found  a larger  puddle  of  water  somewhat 
fresher,  and  near  it  some  dry  broken  branches  and 


22 


POOLS  OF  WATER. 


plenty  of  buffalo  fuel : here  we  encamped  for  the  night, 
and  I congratulated  myself  not  a little  on  my  success  in  A 
finding  this  water,  as  the  Indians  had  told  me  that  to  the 
north  there  was  none  for  two  days’  journey.  Had  I 
gone  to  the  east,  I might  have  travelled  three  or  four 
days  without  finding  water  among  the  dry  ridges  which 
separate  the  sources  of  the  smaller  tributaries  of  the 
Kanzas  on  one  side,  and  of  the  Arkansas  on  the  other,  j 
I computed  this  day’s  journey  at  thirty  miles,  course 
north. 

In  preparing  our  supper  we  repeated  with  success 
an  expedient  to  which  we  had  resorted  on  Saline  or 
Snake  Creek;  namely,  to  dig  a deep  hole  in  the  sand, 
near  the  puddle  or  pool,  if  possible  lower  than  it;  in  a 
very  short  time  the  water  makes  its  way  to  this  new 
reservoir  ; and  being  filtered  by  the  sand  through  which 
it  passes,  becomes  both  clean  and  more  palatable.  I 
had  more  than  once  seen  the  Indians  adopt  this  plan, 
which  should  be  known  to  every  western  traveller. 

The  morning  of  the  17th  dawned  very  freshly.  I 
think  ihe  dew  of  the  past  night  was  one  of  the  heaviest 
that  I had  ever  observed  ; everything  that  we  had  not 
carefully  covered  was  as  wet  as  if  it  had  rained  all  night, 
and  it  was  extremely  difficult  to  keep  our  guns  from  rust- 
ing. We  had  much  difficulty  in  catching  our  horses  ; for 
though  they  were  all  well  hobbled,  the  grass  was  so  short 
that  I had  picketted  them  too,  and  one  of  the  Indian  ani-  \ 
mals  seemed  to  ramble  almost  as  well  with  his  hobbles 
on  as  if  he  was  free.  My  Scotch  servant,  whose  office  it 
was  to  collect  them,  was  absent  nearly  two  hours,  and 
his  visage  on  his  return  was  as  long  and  miserable  as 
can  well  be  imagined.  It  must  be  owned  that  two  hours’ 
horse-hunting  before  breakfast  is  not  a good  preparation 
for  a day’s  march,  but  the  man  was  extremely  slow  and 
sulky  ; had  he  been  willing  and  active,  I believe  the 
horses  might  have  been  collected  in  half  an  hour. 

After  marching  seven  or  eight  miles,  I descried  a few 
buffaloes  upon  some  heights  about  a mile  to  the  left  of 
our  line  of  march.  As  we  had  no  fresh,  meat,  I thought 
this  might  be  a good  opportunity  of  procuring  some  : I 
accordingly  halted  the  parly,  and  dismounted,  as  I could 


SUPPLY  OF  MEAT. 


23 


not  venture  to  run  my  faithful  roan  while  on  so  arduous 
a journey.  The  ground  being  steep  and  broken  was 
very  favourable  for  stalking;  accordingly,  I crept  along 
the  ravines  till  I came  within  a few  hundred  yards  of 
the  buffaloes,  which  were  lazily  pursuing  their  way  to 
the  north,  stopping  every  now  and  then  to  feed  on  the 
sweet  though  short  hill  pasture.  As  I approached  them 
I was  obliged  to  use  much  caution,  owing  to  the  direc- 
tion of  the  wind,  by  which  I was  compelled  to  make  a 
considerable  circuit ; but  I contrived  to  reach  an  ex- 
cellent position  undiscovered,  whence  I observed  with 
great  satisfaction  that  the  smallest  and  fattest  lingered 
fifty  yards  behind  the  rest.  J waited  till  they  all  dis- 
appeared over  the  ridge,  and  till  he  had  just  reached  its 
summit : as  his  stern  was  turned  toward  me,  I made  a 
little  noise  on  purpose  to  attract  his  attention  ; he  turned 
to  look  toward  me,  and  thus  gave  a fair  shot  at  his  heart : 
I was  fortunate  enough  to  hit  it,  for  he  did  not  go  three 
yards  from  the  spot  before  he  fell. 

I now  made  signs  to  my  party  to  advance,  which  they 
did,  and  we  commenced  our  butchering  operations, 
which  certainly  were  of  the  most  uncouth  and  untechni- 
cal  nature.  As  I was  determined  to  spare  our  horses  as 
much  as  possible,  I would  not  allow  more  than  sixty  or 
seventy  pounds  of  meat  to  be  cut ; consequently,  we  se- 
lected the  best  parts,  as  the  ribs  and  hump,  the  tongue, 
heart,  and  liver,  &c.,  and  slinging  them  over  our  pack- 
horses,  began  our  descent  toward  a point  in  the  valley 
below,  where  a winding  line  of  green  gave  evidence, 
or  rather  promise,  of  a stream,  by  which  we  could  wash 
our  blood-stained  hands  and  arms,  and  also  cook  our 
mid-day  meal  of  fresh  meat. 

We  had  marched  forward  about  two  miles,  and  I was 
as  usual  several  hundred  yards  in  advance  of  the  party, 
when,  on  turning  round  to  see  if  they  were  following  on 
the  right  track,  something  in  motion  on  the  sky  line,  or 
on  the  very  summit  of  the  hills  which  we  had  just  left, 
caught  my  eye.  A moment’s  observation  sufficed  to 
convince  me  that  it  was  on  the  spot  where  I had  killed  the 
buffalo,  and  I thought  at  first  that  the  objects  which  had 
attracted  my  attention  might  be  a few  wolves  devouring 


24 


PARTY  OF  INDIANS. 


the  carcass  ; but  upon  examining  with  my  telescope,  I 
saw  clearly  three  men  stooping  over  the  buffalo,  and  their 
horses  feeding  near  them.  I hoped  that  the  group  might 
be  a white  party  of  trappers,  but  a longer  and  more  care- 
ful look  enabled  me  to  see  that  they  were  Indians ; of 
course,  I had  no  means  of  distinguishing  of  what  tribe 
or  nation  they  might  be.  Having  halted  my  party  and 
allowed  them  to  examine  through  the  glass  these  new 
actors  on  the  stage,  it  became  necessary  that  we  should 
at  once  determine  upon  the  course  to  be  pursued. 

It  was  perfectly  evident  that  from  their  elevated  situa- 
tion, they  could  see  us  distinctly,  as  our  pack-horses, 
with  their  various  burthens,  and  indeed  our  own  differ- 
ently coloured  habiliments,  rendered  us  a conspicuous 
object  on  a prairie.  I thought  it,  therefore,  the  most  ad- 
visable plan  to  go  straight  toward  them,  and  ascertain  if 
possible  their  tribe  and  their  intentions;  if  these  were 
hostile,  we  could  not.  escape  by  flight ; if  they  were 
friendly,  it  would  only  be  a waste  of  half  an  hour ; and 
if  they  were  doubtful,  a show  of  confidence  would  be  the 
surest  means  of  keeping  them  quiet.  In  truih,  I did  not 
feel  very  easy  about  the  matter  ; because,  although  we 
had  nothing  to  fear  from  an  open  attack  by  three  men,  I 
did  not  know  how  many  companions  they  might  have 
lurking  about  the  ravines  in  the  hills,  and  even  if  they 
had  none,  they  themselves  might  have  been  somewhat 
dangerous  neighbours  had  they  hovered  upon  our  trail, 
and  attacked  us  or  run  away  with  our  horses  in  the  night. 

These  considerations  (which  pass  quicker  through  the 
mind  than  over  a sheet  of  paper)  induced  me  to  go  im- 
mediately toward  them.  As  V was  still  weak  from 

his  bruises,  and  had  his  arm  in  a sling,  I armed  ihe 
younger  of  our  attendants  (in  whose  coolness  and  self- 
possession,  in  case  of  a skirmish,  I could  place  more  re- 
liance than  in  that  of  the  elder)  with  the  double-barrelled 
gun  and  a pistol.  I took  my  own  double-barrelled  rifle 
and  a pistol  also  ; and  desiring  V and  my  own  ser- 

vant, who  were  to  be  left  with  the  baggage,  to  collect  it 
and  all  the  animals  together,  and  to  get  ready  their  pistols 
in  the  event  of  matters  becoming  serious,  I rode  slowly, 
with  my  young  companion,  to  see  what  these  children  of 
the  desert  might  be. 


HOSTILE  APPEARANCES. 


25 


When  I reached  a small  height,  which  was  about  half 
way  between  them  and  our  halting-place,  I raised  my 
handkerchief  on  the  point  of  my  ramrod,  and  made  sig- 
nals to  them  ; but,  perceiving  none  in  answer,  continued 
my  course  toward  them.  I now  saw  them  leave  the  car- 
cass of  the  buffalo,  spring  on  their  horses,  and  disappear 
behind  the  hill.  A moment  after,  1 saw  them  again  oil 
the  ridge  going  at  speed,  and  entering  a large  ravine  : on 
following  its  course  with  my  eye,  I saw  that  it  opened 
upon  the  plain  not  far  from  the  spot  where  we  had  left 
our  two  companions  and  the  baggage. 

I had  now  little  doubt  of  their  hostile  intentions,  as  it 
was  easy  to  see  that  the  cunning  rogues  had  taken  a 
course  which  might  enable  them  to  charge  upon  the  bag- 
gage while  we  were  still  mounting  the  hill ; but  a ravine 
which  was  close  to  me,  and  which  terminated  also  near 
the  same  point  in  the  valley,  enabled  me  to  defeat  their 
intention,  as  they  had  nearly  double  the  distance  to  go. 
Accordingly,  I went  down  into  it,  and  cantered  back  to 
intercept  them  : here  we  were,  of  course,  out  of  sight 
both  of  them  and  our  own  friends,  and  in  talking  over 
the  occurrence  in  the  evening,  the  latter  told  me,  that  this 
was  the  most  unpleasant  part  of  the  affair  to  them  ; they 
could  not  see  us,  and  knew  not  where  we  were  and  what 
we  were  about,  but  they  could  see  the  Indians  coming 
toward  them  at  full  speed.  Moreover,  I and  my  young 
companion  had  wilh  us  all  the  best  arms,  and  they  had 
nothing  left  wherewith  to  protect  themselves  but  two  or 
three  pistols  and  their  knives,  together  with  my  short 
sword,  which  my  servant  had  drawn  re  ad  y for  service. 

On  arriving  at  the  point  which  I wished  to  reach,  and 
which  was  exactly  between  the  Indians  and  our  baggage- 
parly,  I desired  my  young  attendant  to  get  ready  his  gun  ; 
and  if  they  came  on  in  hostile  fashion  to  present  it,  but 
on  no  account  to  fire  till  I gave  the  word  : then  to  shoot 
the  left-hand  man,  and  keep  his  other  barrel  for  either  of 
the  two  that  I might  miss.  I saw  that  the  lad  was  made 
of  good  stuff ; for  he  was  perfectly  cool,  and  said  he 
would  hold  straight,  and  promised  not  to  pull  the  trigger 
till  I gave  the  word. 

The  Indians  now  came  on  at  speed.  They  were 

Vol.  II.— C 


26 


CONVERSATION  WITH  THE  INDIANS. 


painted  about  the  face,  and  wore  on  their  bare  heads  the 
single  scalp-lock.  One  had  a kind  of  remnant  of  blanket 
thrown  round  him,  the  others  were  naked ; so  it  was  im- 
possible for  me  to  judge  to  what  tribe  they  might  belong. 
When  they  came  within  about  a hundred  yards,  they  had 
their  arrows  fitted  to  their  bows,  and  1 called  to  my  young 
lad  to  present — I knew  that  they  would  not  think  of  shoot- 
ing till  they  came  within  fifty  yards.  I now  rose  in  my 
stirrups,  and  making  the  Pawnee  sign,  called  out  as  loud 
as  I could  speak,  “Are  you  Pawnees?”  At  this  they 
checked  their  horses  ; and  although  they  still  kept  their 
bows  and  arrows  ready,  one  made  the  answering  sign 
with  his  right  hand.  I then  called  out  to  them  to  put 
down  their  bows,  for  we  were  brothers. 

After  a moment’s  consultation  they  did  so,  and  we 
lowered  our  guns.  I then  proceeded  to  inform  them  by 
signs,  and  by  such  words  as  I could  command,  that  “ I 
had  been  with  their  people,  and  that  we  must  be  friends.” 
Upon  this  they  shook  hands  with  us  ; but  were  much 
surprised,  for  they  had  not  been  in  the  village  during  our 
stay  there,  as  was  evident  from  the  curious  and  careful 
observations  which  they  bestowed  upon  us,  and  all  be- 
longing to  us  ; and  they  gave  vent  to  several  “ Ughs,” 
when  I told  them  that  1 had  slept  in  the  lodge  of  Sanit- 
sarish,  and  my  companion  in  that  of  Pe-te-le-sharoo. 

We  now  advanced  together,  and  joined  V and  my 

servant,  who  were  not  a little  relieved  when  they  saw 
that  peace,  and  not  war,  was  to  be  the  order  of  the  day. 
We  took  out  our  kinnekinik-bag,  sat  down  with  our  new 
friends  in  a semicircle,  passed  round  the  pipe,  and  began 
such  a conversation  as  we  were  able  to  maintain.  See- 
ing that  two  of  them  wore  neither  blanket  nor  robe,  I was 
sure  1 hat  they  were  not  far  distant  from  their  party  ; and, 
upon  asking  them  where  their  companions  were,  they 
pointed  west,  adding  the  sign  of  half  a day’s  journey.  I 
learned  that  they  were  many,  and  wrere  on  their  return  to 
their  lodges  at  the  village.  J asked  if  their  squaws  and 
children  were  with  them,  and  they  said,  “No.”  From 
this  I was  convinced  that  they  were  out  upon  a war  or 
horse-stealing  excursion,  and  asked  them  if  they  had  got 
many  horses.  They  put  on  a demure  look  of  gravity, 
and  said,  “ It  is  not  good  to  take  horses  !” 


DEPARTURE. 


27 


Although  stealing  horses  is  one  of  the  greatest  merits 
and  accomplishments  of  a Pawnee,  they  do  not  like  to 
confess  such  an  occupation  to  a white  man,  as  it  is  dis- 
couraged by  the  United  States,  who  always  threaten  them 
with  breaking  off  their  treaty  with  them  if  they  continue 
this  practice  ; but  in  this  vast  wilderness  the  threat  is 
empty,  and  horse-stealing  continues. 

Being  now  upon  friendly  terms  with  the  one  who 
seemed  leader  of  the  party,  I made  him  the  sign  that  he 
was  telling  untruth  ; and,  pointing  to  the  paint  with 
which  he  had  adorned  himself,  and  to  his  arrows,  which 
were  barbed,  and  not  headed  for  hunting,  I told  him  that 
“ I had  eyes,  and  that  he  was  a warrior.”  He  grinned, 
and  made  no  further  attempt  to  deny  the  charge. 

I extracted  another  smile  from  their  guarded  features 
when  I pointed  to  where  I had  killed  the  buffalo,  and 
asked  them,  “ If  we  white  men  had  not  cut  it  up  well  ?” 
They  might  indeed  smile,  for  such  an  attempt  at  butchery 
had  never  been  seen  ; and  I suppose  they  could  not  un- 
derstand the  meaning  of  four  men  travelling  and  leaving 
two-thirds  of  the  meat  of  one  animal,  which  the  same 
number  of  Pawnees  would  have  eaten  in  two  days  ! But 
one  of  them  pointed  towards  his  heart,  then  made  the 
buffalo  sign,  and  then  touched  the  barrel  of  my  rifle  ! 
after  which  he  shook  his  head,  and  said,  “ It  was  great  or 
good  meaning,  that  in  examining  the  carcass  they  had 
discovered  that  the  buffalo  had  been  killed  by  one  shot  in 
the  heart. 

After  idling  away  half  an  hour  in  this  manner,  we  pre- 
pared to  resume  our  march,  and  gave  them  a few  small 
pieces  of  tobacco,  and  a paper  of  damaged  vermilion, 
which  had  been  left  in  one  of  our  bags ; they  seemed 
well  pleased,  shook  hands  with  us  again,  jumped  on  their 
active  wiry  little  horses,  shook  their  laryettes , and  went 
off  toward  the  west  at  a gallop. 

Thus  ended  an  occurrence  which  terminated  very  dif- 
ferently from  what  I expected  ; for,  had  it  been  a party 
of  Sioux,  or  Shiennes,  or  Aricaras,  (any  of  which  tribes 
we  were  equally  likely  to  fall  in  with,)  my  calling  out  the 
name  of  Pawnee  when  they  approached  would,  probably, 
have  lead  to  an  immediate  discharge  of  arrows  on  their 


28 


BUFFALO  SOUP. 


part : but,  even  in  that  event,  I scarcely  think  they  would 
have  ventured  to  gallop  in  broad  day  close  up  to  the  muz- 
zles of  two  guns  pointed  deliberately  toward  them  ; they 
would  more  probably  have  wheeled  about,  and  brought 
more  of  their  companions,  or  else  have  hovered  on  our 
trail,  and  attacked  us  at  night.  As  it  was,  the  foolish 
fellows  ran  no  little  risk  b)  the  abrupt  and  threatening 
attitude  in  which  they  came  down  upon  us  ; for,  certainly, 
if  they  had  advanced  twenty  yards  nearer  in  the  same 
manner,  I should  have  felt  it  my  duty  to  give  the  word 
“ fire,”  and  we  could  scarcely  have  missed  our  aim  at  so 
short  a distance.  However,  I w’as  very  glad  to  see  the 
matter  come  to  a peaceful  issue,  although  it  may  have 
thereby  lost  the  dignity  of  being  termed  “ an  adventure.” 

We  continued  our  march  for  about  eight  or  ten  miles 
north-north-east,  when  we  reached  a comfortable  camp- 
ing-place abounding  in  dry  wood.  Here  we  halted,  un- 
loaded our  horses,  and  lighted  a fire.  While  my  com- 
panions were  spreading  the  meat  to  dry,  and  preparing 
our  meal,  I sat  with  pencil  and  pocket-book  in  hand  com- 
mitting the  above  particulars  to  writing. 


CHAPTER  II. 

March  resumed. — Our  Night  Camp. — False  Alarm. — Rules  for  Travel- 
ling in  the  Prairies. — Solitary  Indian  Traveller. — Indian  Trails. — 
Arrival  at  the  Banks  of  a large  Stream. — Herds  of  Antelopes — Wild 
Grapes  and  Plums. — Culinary  Invention. — Watery  Labyrinth. — 
Discovery  of  an  Indian  Trail. — Pursuit  of  its  Course. — Loss  of  our 
Horses. — Search  for  and  Recovery  of  them. — Annoyance  by  Musqui- 
toes. — Discovery  of  a larger  Trail. — Determination  to  follow  it. — A 
Jungle. — Amusing  Perplexity. — Approach  to  the  Kanzas  River. — 
Gratitude  to  Heaven. — Exultation  of  the  Party. — Ruins  of  an  Indian 
Village. — Fording  the  River. — An  old  Indian  Camp. — Trouble  in 
making  a Fire. — My  new  patent  Grate. — Hot  Soup. 

Our  fresh  buffalo  made  us  an  excellent  soup  ; and  we 
marched  on  again  in  the  afternoon  in  high  spirits,  which 
means  (as  the  French  say  of  the  English)  “ ayant  bien 
mange”  As  we  had  not  daylight  enough  to  make  a very 
long  march,  and  the  stream  which  we  had  found  bore 


FALSE  ALARMS. 


29 


somewhat  to  the  northward  of  east,  I determined  not  to 
lose  sight  of  it,  in  case  I might  not  find  another  for  our 
night-camp.  Accordingly,  after  following  its  course  eight 
or  ten  miles,  the  dusk  came  on,  and  we  camped  again — 
prepared  our  supper,  hobbled  our  horses,  smoked  our 
pipes,  and  lay  down  to  rest.  I recommended  that  a very 
careful  watch  should  be  kept,  as  we  knew  not  how  near 
our  mischievous  neighbours  might  be  ; and,  although  we 
had  parted  on  friendly  terms  with  the  three  whom  we  had 
seen,  there  was  nothing  more  probable  than  that  half  a 
dozen  of  their  companions  should  pay  us  a visit  during 
the  night,  and  ease  us  of  our  horses. 

The  night  was  dark,  I was  asleep,  and  it  was  the  at- 
tendants’ watch,  when  one  of  them  woke  me  gently,  and 
said  he  thought  there  was  some  mischief  on  foot,  as  he 
heard  indistinct  noises  which  he  did  not  understand.  I 
took  my  rifle,  and  crawled  a little  way  in  the  direction  to 
which  he  pointed.  It  was  evident  that  something  had 
alarmed  our  horses,  for  they  snorted  and  moved  about 
more  than  was  usual  after  a long  march.  I crawled 
fifty  yards  farther,  and  listened  for  some  time  attentive- 
ly, when  I become  convinced  that  whatever  might  have 
disturbed  the  horses,  there  was  no  Indian  driving  them 
off  at  present,  for  I could  hear  them,  moving  about  in- 
deed, but  preserving  still  the  same  relative  distance  ; but 
I could  not  see  them,  nor  indeed  any  other  object  five 
yards  off.  However,  on  looking  towards  our  fire,  of 
which  my  position  commanded  a view,  I experienced 
no  slight  uneasiness  at  observing  what  a fair  mark  those 
lying  by  it  would  offer  to  any  Indians  who  could  creep 
undiscovered  to  the  spot  which  I now  occupied  : this 
was  an  evil  for  which  there  was  no  remedy  except  sleep- 
ing without  a fire,  and  the  freshness  of  the  nights  and 
cold  heavy  dews,  rendered  the  risk  incurred,  great  though 
it  was,  preferable  to  such  an  expedient. 

Finding  that  another  quarter  of  an  hour  spent  in  listen- 
ing brought  no  new  sounds  to  the  ear,  and  that  the  si- 
lence was  interrupted  only  by  the  ordinary  movements  of 
the  horses  feeding,  and  the  distant  howling  of  the  wolves, 

I returned  to  the  fire-side.  V who  had  crept  out 

some  fifty  yards  in  an  opposite  direction,  gave  the  same 

C* 


30 


TRAVELLING  IN  THE  PRAIRIES. 


report ; and,  as  our  watch  had  nearly  arrived,  we  told 
the  others  to  go  to  rest.  I drew  my  buffalo-s|dn  around 
me,  and  whiled  away  my  appointed  time,  like  the  warder 
of  old  keeping  the  protracted  watch,  “ Stretched  on  the 
ground  like  a dog,  gazing  at  the  starry  hosts  of  night, 
those  brilliant  rulers  shining  forth  in  the  heavens,  and 
bringing  to  mortals  the  changes  of  summer  and  winter.”* 
In  the  morning  we  found  the  horses  at  no  great  distance 
from  the  place  where  we  had  turned  them  out,  and  came 
to  the  conclusion  that  their  alarm  in  the  night  had  been 
occasioned  by  some  straggling  wolf,  which  had  intruded 
his  undesired  company  upon  them. 

, It  is  an  inconvenience  attending  a long  prairie  march 
that  the  traveller  usually  desires  (in  order  to  avoid  toiling 
through  the  extreme  heat  of  noon)  to  start  at  or  before  the 
dawn  of  morning,  which  is  precisely  the  time  when  his 
horses  are  taking  their  best  and  most  refreshing  food,  for 
the  grass  is  then  cool  and  wet  with  dew  ; so  that  my 
experience  leads  me  to  believe,  that  it  is  better,  in  a prai- 
rie journey  in  August,  not  to  start  before  seven  in  the 
morning:  because,  if  the  march  is  a toilsome  one,  I have 
often  observed  that  the  horses  feed  a very  short  lime 
when  they  are  turned  loose  in  the  evening,  before  they 
lie  down  to  rest ; of  course,  if  they  are  loaded  or  saddled 
next  morning  at  half-past  four  or  five,  they  have  no  time 
to  feed. 

On  the  18th  we  pursued  our  course,  north  by  east : 
this  was  not  exactly  the  direction  in  which  I wished  to  tra- 
vel, but  tw©  considerations  induced  me  to  adopt  it  at  this 
part  of  the  journey.  In  the  first  place,  it  enabled  me  to 
keep  along  the  dividing  ridge  ; an  advantage  so  great, 
and  so  well  understood  by  all  prairie  travellers,  that  it 
is  worth  making  a circuit  of  several  miles  a day  to  keep 
it;  and  the  Indian  trails  which  we  have  crossed  since 

See  the  opening  of  that  magnificent  ancient  drama  the  Agamemnon 
of  iEschylus  : — 

<f>povpu^  (erelag)  prjKoc,  t]V  noip/opevoz 

Kvvog  biKTjv . 

aarpuv  Karotda  WKTcpuv  bprjyvpiv 

nai  tov?  (pipovrac  xE^a  Kai  Oepo^  (3p6roi(; 

ha/Lnrpoi’c  dwaarag — epTrpETrovrag  aWepi , k.  t.  X, 


AN  INDIAN  SCENE  AT  A DISTANCE. 


31 


our  residence  in  the  wilderness,  convince  me  that  the 
savages  pay  the  greatest  attention  to  this  matter.  In  a 
wide  extent  of  country  composed  of  a succession  of 
hills  and  ridges,  it  is  evident  there  must  be  a great  num- 
ber of  steep  banks,  which  offer  to  an  inexperienced  tra- 
veller numerous  obstacles,  rendering  his  own  progress 
most  toilsome,  and  that  of  loaded  pack-horses  almost 
impossible.  If  these  ridges  all  ran  in  parallel  lines,  and 
were  regular  in  their  formation,  nothing  would  be  more 
simple  than  to  get  upon  the  summit  of  one,  and  keep  it 
for  the  whole  day’s  journey  : but  such  is  not  the  case ; 
they  constantly  meet  other  ridges  running  in  a transverse 
direction  ; and,  of  course,  large  dips  and  ravines  are  con- 
sequent upon  that  meeting.  The  “ dividing  ridge  ” of  a 
district  is  that  which,  while  it  is  as  it  were  the  back-bone 
of  the  range  of  which  it  forms  apart,  heads  at  the  same 
time  all  the  transverse  ravines,  whether  on  the  right  or 
on  the  left  hand,  and  thereby  spares  to  the  traveller  an 
infinity  of  toilsome  ascent  and  desaent. 

I have  sometimes  observed  that  an  Indian  trail  wound 
through  a country  in  a course  perfectly  serpentine,  and 
appeared  to  me  to  travel  three  miles  when  only  one  was 
necessary.  It  was  not  till  my  own  practical  experience 
had  made  me  attend  more  closely  to  this  matter,  that  I 
learned  to  appreciate  its  importance.  I think  that  the 
first  quality  in  a guide  through  an  unknown  range  of  roll- 
ing prairie,  is  having  a good  and  quick  eye  for  hitting  off 
the  “ dividing  ridge  the  second  perhaps,  in  the  western 
wilderness,  is  a ready  and  almost  intuitive  perception  (so 
often  found  in  an  Indian)  of  the  general  character  of  a 
country,  so  as  to  be  able  to  bring  his  party  to  water 
when  it  is  very  scarce. 

My  other  reason  for  pursuing  a course  rather  more 
northerly  than  the  direct  compass  line  to  the  fort,  was, 
that  it  would  bring  me  sooner  to  the  Kanzas  river,  and 
as  soon  as  I could  see  that,  I felt  sure  that  we  should 
reach  the  settlements  in  safety,  whatever  inconvenience 
we  might  experience  from  scant  provisions  or  rough 
weather. 

A little  before  noon,  I halted  for  a moment  to  give  the 
rest  of  the  party  time  to  come  up,  and  made  a careful  ex- 


32 


INDIAN  TRAILS* 


amination  of  the  surrounding  country  from  an  elevated 
point  on  which  I was  seated.  I could  see  no  buffalo ; 
but  with  my  telescope  could  make  out  several  small 
herds  of  antelopes,  very  far  from  our  course.  I spied 
also  a .man  on  horseback,  at  a very  great  distance,  on  a 
sloping  range  to  the  westward ; he  seemed  to  be  going 
in  a diagonal  direction  to  the  north-west,  and  as  far  as  I 
could  make  out,  he  was  an  Indian,  wearing  a blanket ; 
he  evidently  had  not  seen  or  took  no  notice  of  our  party. 
Indeed  it  was  hardly  possible  for  him  to  see  us  with  the 
naked  eye,  as  I could  see  him  but  very  indistinctly  with 
my  glass.  However,  I thought  it  might  be  as  well  to  halt 
until  he  disappeared  over  the  distant  sky  line  of  the  hill. 
This  I did,  because  I wished  to  keep  clear  of  all  Indians, 
whether  friendly  or  hostile  ; and  it  is  well  known  that  an 
object  at  a distance  which  is  not  perceptible  to  the  eye 
while  at  rest.,  may  be  easily  discerned  as  soon  as  it  is 
put  in  motion. 

A few  miles  farther  we  crossed  an  old  Indian  trail  (I 
think  it  was  of  a Pawnee  party,  for  it  bore  north  by  west, 
which  must  have  been  about  the  direction  of  their  village 
from  this  spot) ; it  had  not  been  a war-party,  as  was  evi- 
dent from  the  character  of  the  trail.  A war-party  leaves 
only  the  trail  of  the  horses,  or,  of  course,  if  it  be  a foot 
party,  the  still  lighter  tracks  of  their  own  feet;  but  when 
they  are  on  their  summer  hunt,  or  migrating  from  one 
region  to  another,  they  take  their  squaws  and  children 
with  them,  and  this  trail  can  always  be  distinguished 
from  the  former,  by  two  parallel  tracks  about  three  and 
a half  feet  apart,  not  unlike  those  of  a light  pair  of 
wheels:  these  are  made  by  the  points  of  the  long  curved 
poles  on  which  their  lodges  are  stretched,  the  thickest  or 
butt  ends  of  which  are  fastened  to  each  side  of  the  pack- 
saddle,  while  the  points  trail  behind  the  horse ; in  cross- 
ing rough  or  boggy  places,  this  is  often  found  the  most 
inconvenient  part  of  an  Indian  camp  equipage. 

After  marching  for  an  hour  or  two,  we  came  to  a large 
stream,  bearing  in  this  part  of  its  course  east-norih-east. 
I determined  to  follow  this  as  far  as  it  might  prove  fa- 
vourable to  our  destination.  We  proceeded  along  its 
margin  twelve  or  fourteen  miles,  without  meeting  with 


CULINARY  INVENTION. 


33 


any  buffalo  ; indeed,  the  fresh  trails  of  these  animals,  and 
other  indications  of  them  were  here  so  scarce  that  I did 
not  expect  to  fall  in  with  any  of  them.  We  saw  a num- 
ber of  antelopes  : I made  several  unsuccessful  attempts 
to  entice  them  to  approach  ; but  my  horse  was  too  hard- 
worked,  and  the  day  too  hot,  to  admit  of  my  going  out  of 
my  way  in  pursuit  of  them. 

At  noon  we  halted  near  a point  where  -one  or  two 
muddy  creeks  joined  the  stream  which  we  had  been  fol- 
lowing, and  seemed  likely  to  impede  our  farther  pro- 
gress : the  banks  of  these  were  covered  with  half-ripe 
grapes  and  plums,  a luxury  so  new  and  rendered  so 
tempting,  by  the  heat  and  toil  of  the  journey,  that  we  ate 
them  too  eagerly.  If  I mistake  not,  more  than  one  of  the 
party  had  cause  to  repent  of  having  deserted  the  honest 
buffalo-soup  for  these  sour  fruits.  I must  own,  how- 
ever, that  when  we  did  find  any  that  were  ripe,  they  were 
most  grateful  and  refreshing  to  the  palate. 

Here  again  I displayed  my  genius  for  culinary  inven- 
tion, for  I determined  to  have  a second  course  to  our 
dinner;  and  after  each  of  the  party  had  brought  his  hat 
and  pockets  full  of  plums,  I selected  some  of  the  ripest, 
and  bruised  them  in  one  of  our  pots,  added  sugar  and  a 
little  water,  and  upon  this  great  experiment  we  agreed  to 
lavish  a glass  of  our  remaining  half  bottle  of  brandy, 
which  we  also  threw  in,  and  allowed  the  whole  to  sim- 
mer over  the  fire  for  a quarter  of  an  hour.  By  what 
name  this  strange  mess  should  be  called  I know  not ; but 
whether  pudding,  tart,  or  stewed  plums,  we  voted  it  ex- 
cellent, although  there  was  still  left  in  it  acid  and  bitter 
enough  to  make  an  English  schoolboy  draw  up  the  cor- 
ners of  his  mouth  and  eyes  and  vote  it  execrable,  unless 
under  one  of  two  circumstances — namely,  that  of  having 
stolen  it, or  of  having  concocted  it  himself ; either  of  which 
would  make  the  urchin  relish  gall  stewed  in  vinegar  ! 

While  the  rest  of  the  party  were  preparing  and  fasten- 
ing the  packs,  I went  to  explore  our  fari  her  route.  The 
muddy  creeks  which  I before  mentioned,  were  so  wind- 
ing, that  even  crossing  them,  which  was  not  easy,  would 
be  no  security  against  having  to  repeat  the  same  opera- 
tion a dozen  times  : reflecting  that  other  parties,  either 


34 


INDIAN  TRAIL. 


biped  or  quadruped,  must  have  come  to  this  impractica- 
ble labyrinth  of  water  before  me,  I determined  lo  search 
for  some  track  by  which  I might  guide  my  course.  This 
experiment  succeeded  beyond  my  utmost  hopes,  for  I 
was  fortunate  enough  to  find  an  Indian  trail  bearing  north 
by  east,  which  was  as  near  to  our  destined  course  as 
these  odious  creeks  would  permit  us  to  go.  We  struck 
into  it,  and  it  brought  us  safely,  though  not  without  diffi- 
culty, through  the  tangled  and  muddy  bottom  in  which 
we  had  been  involved  : sometimes  a horse  floundered, 
and  more  than  once  a pack  came  off;  but  upon  the 
whole  we  had  great  reason  to  congratulate  ourselves 
upon  having  found  this  trail,  by  which  we  escaped  in  two 
hours  from  a place  which  would,  without  its  assistance, 
probably  have  detained  us  two  days. 

I was  by  no  means  anxious  to  part  with  so  good  a 
friend,  and  proceeded  some  miles  upon  this  same  trail ; 
it  was  very  old  and  indistinct,  especially  in  the  high  and 
dry  parts  of  the  prairie.  I left  my  horse  with  the  rest  of 
the  party  and  went  on  foot,  in  order  that  I might  more 
easily  follow  the  trail,  which  became  almost  impercepti- 
ble as  we  reached  an  elevated  district  of  table-land,  which 
had  been  burnt  so  close  that  I very  often  lost  the  track 
altogether  for  fifty  yards.  If  a fire  takes  place  on  a 
prairie  where  there  is  already  a distinct  trail,  it  is  as 
easy  to  follow  it,  if  not  more  so  than  before  ; because  the 
short  and  beaten  grass  offering  no  food  to  the  fire,  partly 
escapes  its  fury,  and  remains  a green  line  upon  a sea  of 
black;  but  if  the  party  making  the  trail  pass  over  a 
prairie  which  is  already  burnt,  on  the  succeeding  season 
when  the  new  grass  has  grown,  it  can  scarcely  be  traced 
by  any  eye  but  that  of  an  Indian. 

As  this  last  was  the  condition  of  the  trail  we  were  now 
following,  I resorted  to  an  expedient  which  partly  suc- 
ceeded : this  was  lo  divide  our  party  and  make  them  go 
abreast  twenty  or  thirty  yards  apart ; thus,  when  one 
missed  the  trail  another  would  hit  upon  it,  and  give  notice 
of  his  success.  In  this  manner  we  proceeded  till  three 
or  four  o’clock,  p.  m.  We  had  by  this  time  observed 
that  the  party  whose  trail  we  were  following  had,  in  many 
places,  straggled  as  we  were  doing,  which  rendered  the 


INDIAN  TRAIL. 


35 


tracing  them  very  difficult ; and  on  a barren  hard  elevated 
ridge,  which  we  had  to  pass,  we  were  obliged  to  give  it 
up  altogether ; however,  we  were  fortunate  enough  to 
see  a large  creek  in  the  plain  below  us,  to  which  we 
bent  our  way  and  encamped. 

While  my  companions  prepared  the  supper,  I again 
set  forth  in  search  of  the  lost  trail,  knowing  that  by  fol- 
lowing the  course  of  the  creek  I must  in  time  reach  the 
place  where  the  party  had  passed  it ; and  I could  not 
fail  there  to  distinguish  it,  because  it  is  always  strongly 
marked  on  the  softer  soil  and  richer  vegetation  on  the 
banks  of  a stream.  Jt  was  the  more  desirable  to  discover 
it,  because  I was  thereby  sure  of  finding  a practicable 
crossing  place  : whereas,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  our 
encampment,  the  creek  was  muddy  and  deep,  with  banks 
so  soft  and  tangled  with  brushwood,  as  to  prevent  the 
possibility  of  crossing  it  with  pack-horses.  After  a long 
and  patient  search,  1 came  to  the  long  sought  trail,  which 
was  about  three  miles  to  the  west  of  our  camp,  and  so 
much  higher  up  the  stream.  The  Indian  patty  had 
evidently  found  the  only  place  where  it  was  fordable  by 
horses,  for  a distance  of  some  miles;  and  on  examining 
the  track  close  by,  I found  that  they  had  consisted  of  a 
large  number  of  mounted  men,  and  had  halted  near  this 
spot  at  mid-day,  but  had  not  passed  the  night  there. 

It  requires  no  great  experience  or  observation  of  Indian 
life  to  enable  a prairie  traveller  to  distinguish  a mid-day 
from  a night  camping-place : in  the  former  he  will  often 
find  some  cut  branches  under  which  the  party  had  shel- 
tered themselves  from  the  heat,  of  the  noon  sun  ; in  the 
latter,  generally  some  scraps  of  charred  wood,  or  round 
marks  in  the  grass,  showing  where  a fire  had  been  made. 
Even  where  neither  of  these  indications  exists,  there  are 
others  equally  clear  to  a practised  eye;  and  comparing 
these  together,  an  Indian  will  make  a very  shrewd 
guess  at  the  number,  both  of  the  party  itself  and  their 
horses,  whether  the  former  were  all  male  or  of  both 
sexes,  how  many  days  have  elapsed  since  they  passed, 
whether  they  made  a short  or  a long  halt,  and  to  what 
tribe  or  nation  they  belonged. 

I now  returned  in  high  spirits  to  the  camp,  and  forgot 


36 


SEARCH  FOR  OUR  HORSES. 


the  toils  of  the  day  in  a good  supper  and  refreshing  sleep. 
In  the  morning  we  were  much  annoyed  at  missing  our 
horses;  in  vain  we  went  to  the  top  of  the  nearest  hill, 
not  a trace  of  them  was  to  be  seen.  I began  to  fear  that 
they  had  been  driven  off  by  Indians,  or  that  they  had 
taken  our  back  trail.  The  latter  was  more  probable,  as 
none  of  the  watchers  pleaded  guilty  of  having  slept.  An 
examination  of  the  ground  near  which  they  had  been 
turned  out  to  feed  over  night  confirmed  this  belief,  as 
we  could  distinctly  track  them  in  that  direction  as  far  as 
the  ground  was  soft.  But  I observed  with  great  vexa- 
tion that  they  had  certainly  gone  off  early,  as  the  dew 
had  fallen  since  their  hoof-prints  had  been  left.  There 
was  no  remedy  now  but  a general  search ; and  leaving 
one  of  the  party  to  guard  the  camp,  the  remaining  three 
set  off  in  pursuit.  I cautioned  the  other  two  on  no  ac- 
count to  follow  so  carelessly  or  so  far  as  to  lose  them- 
selves in  attempting  to  find  the  horses  ; and  we  agreed 
to  keep  as  much  as  possible  on  the  heights,  in  order 
that  we  might  inform  each  other  by  signals,  in  case  of 
success. 

After  a long  and  tedious  search,  we  overtook  the  fugi- 
tives going  deliberately  back  on  our  trail  of  the  previous 
day,  led  by  a cunning  old  Indian  nag,  which  almost  al- 
ways contrived  to  slip  his  hobbles,  even  when  they  were 
tied  tight  enough  to  scarify  the  skin  on  his  legs.  Some 
were  still  hobbled,  and  moving  along  in  the  ungainly  kind 
of  walking  canter  or  kangaroo  gait.,  which  a horse  must 
adopt  when  he  wishes  lo  travel  with  his  legs  tied  together. 
Fortunately  they  had  fed  a little  by  the  way,  or  we  might 
have  had  the  pleasure  of  following  them  thirty  miles  in- 
stead of  five  or  six.  We  drove  them  back  lo  the  camp  ; 
and  I could  not  help  apostrophizing  my  faithful  roan,  and 
asking  her  how  she  could  be  such  a fool  as  to  add  a 
dozen  miles  to  her  own  and  her  master’s  journey  for  the 
day,  and  to  allow  herself  to  be  led  away  from  her  home- 
course  by  an  ignorant  uncivilized  Pawnee  pack-horse. 

On  the  19th  we  still  followed  the  Indian  trail,  with 
some  difficulty,  but  without  meeting  with  any  accident 
or  serious  obstacle.  We  saw  a few  wolves,  antelopes, 
and  some  very  large  rattle-snakes  ; we  also  picked  up  a 


MUSQUITOES A JUNGLE. 


37 


mocassin,  which  had  been  dropped  near  the  trail  ; from 
its  material  (elk-skin)  and  fashion,  it  was  evident  that  the 
party  had  not  been  Pawnees  : but  none  of  us  were  suffi- 
ciently experienced  to  pronounce  to  what  tribe  they 
belonged.  I calculated  that  we  made  this  day  twenty 
miles,  beside  our  morning  horse-hunt ; average  course, 
east-north-east. 

May  20th. — The  creek  by  which  we  had  camped  was 
low,  and  we  were  devoured  by  musquitoes.  They 
seemed  to  care  neither  for  fire  nor  tobacco  smoke  ; but 
we  had  become  so  accustomed  to  their  attacks  as  to  be 
nearly  indifferent  to  them.  As  for  myself,  when  I slept, 
I was  armed  in  proof  against  them  ; having  no  blanket, 
I rolled  myself  up  in  my  highland  plaid,  which  com- 
pletely covered  my  head  and  face,  and  was  at  the  same 
time  of  such  fine  texture  as  not  to  annoy  me  by  im- 
peding respiration. 

After  we  had  travelled  about  five  hours  (course  north- 
east by  east),  I found  that  theTrail  which  we  had  been 
following,  merged  in  another  and  a larger  one,  which 
appeared  to  run  a point  to  the  west  of  north.  This  was 
so  far  out  of  our  course  that  I hesitated  whether  I 
should  not  leave  it  altogether;  but,  upon  reflection,  I 
determined  not  to  do  so,  remembering  that  it  must  lake 
us  to  the  Republican  Fork;*  whereas,  if  I attempted  to 
cross  the  country  farther  to  the  eastward,  without  any 
trail,  I should  meet  with  serious  difficulties  and  delays 
from  the  dense  thickets  which  seemed  in  this  district  to 
abound  in  the  bottoms  ; where  also  I should  lose  much 
time  in  finding  passable  fords  in  the  sleep-banked  muddy 
creeks  which  we  should  be  obliged  to  cross. 

Moreover,  I thought  that,  if  the  party  whose  trail  I had 
been  following,  and  who  were  evidently  bound  to  the 
eastward,  (being  probably  Delawares,  Shawnees,  or 
Kickapoos,)  had  thought  fit  to  take  this  sudden  bend  to 
the  north,  there  was  probably  a reason  for  it  which  a few 
miles  travel  might  explain.  I therefore  struck  into  it, 
and  ere  long  the  result  justified  my  conjecture  for  we 
came  to  a wooded  bottom  or  valley,  which  was  such  a 


*A  branch  of  the  Kanzas  river- 


Vol.  IT.— D 


38 


AMUSING  PERPLEXITY. 


complete  jungle,  and  so  extensive,  that  I am  sure,  if  we 
had  not  been  guided  by  the  trail,  we  could  not  have  made 
our  way  through  it  in  a week.  As  it  was,  the  task  was 
no  easy  one ; for  the  trail,  though  originally  large,  was 
not  very  fresh,  and  the  weeds  and  branches  had  in  many 
places  so  overgrown  it,  that  I was  obliged  to  dismount 
and  trace  it  out  on  foot.  It  wound  about  with  a hundred 
serpentine  evolutions  to  avoid  the  heavy  swamps  and 
marshes  around  us  ; and  I repeatedly  thought  that,  if  we 
lost  it,  we  never  should  extricate  our  baggage  : even  with 
its  assistance,  we  were  obliged  frequently  to  halt  and 
replace  the  packs,  which  were  violently  forced  off  by 
the  branches  with  which  they  constantly  came  in  contact. 

On  emerging  from  this  jungle,  it  appeared  as  if  our 
predecessors  had  been  as  glad  as  we  were  to  escape 
from  it ; for  they  had  evidently  scattered  themselves  in 
every  direction,  to  halt  and  make  their  fires.  As  I 
wished  to  make  no  farther  stop  until  our  night-camp,  I 
pushed  on  in  a northerly  direction,  convinced  that  I 
should  ere  long  strike  the  trail  of  the  same  party  which 
I had  been  following.* 

I was  here  much  amused  by  an  incident  which  proved 
to  me  that  my  companions  (or  some  of  them  at  least) 
would  have  made  strange  work  of  the  office  of  guide, 
had  no  cne  else  relieved  them  of  it.  I had  become  so 
accustomed  to  direct  my  course  by  the  sun,  by  the 
bearings  of  the  country,  &c.,  that  I did  not  use  my  com- 
pass so  often  as  I had  previously  done  ; and  on  leaving 
this  great  thicket,  I went  straight  on  in  a northerly 
direction  without  consulting  it.  The  two  attendants 
were  following  close  behind  me,  talking  together,  and  I 
heard  one  of  them  say  to  the  other  in  a most  doleful 
voice,  “ Where  on  earth  is  he  taking  us  now  ? — why  we 

* In  following  the  trail  of  a large  body  of  men,  an  inexperienced 
guide  finds  great  difficulty  in  striking  it  after  coming  to  a place  where 
they  have  camped,  for  paths  are  running  in  every  direction  ; some  to 
where  the  horses  had  been  pastured,  others  to  the  nearest  water,  &c. 
The  safest  way  to  avoid  becoming  hereby  confused  is  to  pay  no  atten- 
tion to  the  ground  marks,  but  to  keep  straight  on  in  the  general  direction 
which  the  trail  had  borne  previous  to  reaching  the  camping-place,  and 
then  a very  short  time  spent  in  examining  the  ground  will  be  sufficient 
to  enable  him  to  hit  it  off  again. 


APPROACH  TO  T1IE  KANZAS. 


39 


are  going  back  in  the  same  direction  as  we  came  !”  I 
turned  round  and  asked  the  speaker  where  he  thought 
our  true  course  lay,  telling  him  to  point  with  his  finger 
to  the  quarter  which  he  would  make  for  if  he  were 
guiding  the  party  to  Fort  Leavenworth.  He  did  so  ; and 
I 'took  out  my  compass  and  showed  him  that  he  was 
pointing  south-west,  i.  e.  to  Santa  Fe  and  the  Gulf  of 
California  : so  completely  had  the  poor  fellow’s  head  be- 
come puzzled  by  the  winding  circuit  which  we  had  made 
in  the  swamp. 

I now  rode  on  in  great  spirits  ; for  I felt  sure  that  we 
were  approaching  that  Kanzas  river,  which  had  been  so 
long  and  so  repeatedly  sighed  for  by  all  the  party,  as  the 
point  at  which  all  our  risks  from  Indians,  or  from  starv- 
ing, or  losing  our  way,  were  to  cease.  Many  reasons 
concurred  to  make  me  believe  that  we  could  not  be  very 
far  from  it : first,  It  was  about  the  place  where  I ex- 
pected to  find  it,  upon  comparing  the  distance  and 
direction  we  had  travelled,  with  our  outward  route  and 
with  the  information  received  from  the  Indians  before 
we  left  them  : and,  secondly,  The  increased  fertility  of 
the  soil  and  luxuriance  of  vegetation,  together  with  the 
increased  size  of  the  creeks  and  of  the  timber  in  the 
bottoms  which  we  crossed,  convinced  me  that  we  were 
not  far  from  the  course  of  the  main  river.  Having  found 
the  trail  again,  I rode  on  a mile  ahead  of  the  party;  and 
on  reaching  a high  point  over  which  it  passed,  I saw  be- 
fore me,  in  a large  valley,  a long  bending  line  of  heavy 
massive  timber  already  clothed  in  the  varied  tints  of 
early  autumn, — one  look  sufficed  to  tell  me  that  it  was 
the  Kanzas. 

I threw  myself  from  my  horse  to  contemplate  the  long- 
wished-for  prospect.  I felt  that  the  worst  of  our  dan- 
gers and  difficulties  were  past.  I trust  I also  felt  and 
expressed  myself  grateful  to  Him  who  had  enabled  me 
to  bring  my  little  party  to  this  point  of  comparative  safety 
— who  had  spared  us  the  privations  of  hunger  and  thirst, 
and  the  pangs  of  disease  which  might  have  resulted  from 
such  constant  exposure  to  the  extremes  of  heat  by  day  and 
chilly  wet  by  night,  and  who  had  enabled  us  to  pursue  our 


40 


REMAINS  OF  AN  INDIAN  VILLAGE. 


course  without  error,  and  without  falling  in  with  any 
bands  of  hostile  Indians  by  the  way. 

While  I was  yet  full  of  these  thoughts,  the  rest  of  the 
party  approached,  and  I raised  the  Pawnee  yell,  pointed, 
to  the  valley,  and  shouted  aloud  “ The  Kanzas  !”  They 
rushed  forward  and  satisfied  their  longing  eyes  with  one 
look.  I know  not  that  ever  I saw  men  more  extravagant 
in  demonstration  of  joy  than  we  all  became  : we  danced, 
we  sung,  and  called  aloud  the  name  of  the  Kanzas  with 
more  enthusiasm  than  was  ever  vented  by  the  wildest 
German  youth  on  his  beloved  Rhine. 

Although  it  had  rained  all  day,  and  we  were  soaked 
to  the  skin,  we  were  in  such  high  spirits  as  to  defy  the 
inclemency  of  the  weather  > and,  indeed,  it  mattered 
little  whether  we  were  now  wet  or  dry  ; for  the  Kanzas 
was  before  us,  and  I determined,  if  possible,  to  camp  this 
night  on  the  other  side  of  it.  In  descending  toward 
the  river,  we  came  to  a spot  commanding  a beautiful 
view  of  its  course,  where  there  had  evidently  once  been 
a permanent  Indian  village.  I know  not  exactly  to  what 
tribe  it  may  have  belonged,  but  probably  to  some  band 
or  branch  of  the  Pawnees,  because  that  nation  had  lived 
on  the  Kanzas,  about  fifty  miles  to  the  west  of  the  spot 
where  we  now  were,  before  their  last  war  with  the  Uni- 
ted States;  in  which  the  troops  of  the  latter  had  sacked 
and  completely  destroyed  their  village,  and  forced  them 
to  establish  themselves  in  the  more  remote  region  water- 
ed by  the  Platte,  and  to  cede  the  territory  through  which 
we  were  now  passing,  in  consideration  of  certain  pay- 
ments of  goods,  according  to  the  terms  of  a treaty  to 
which  I have  before  referred.  I remember,  on  our  out- 
ward course,  one  of  the  Indians  pointed  out  to  me  the 
site  of  their  old  village,  and  shook  his  head  very  dole- 
fully, saying  at  the  same  time  many  words  which  I could 
not  understand  ; but  which,  doubtless  signified  that  it  had 
been  a sad  affair  for  the  Pawnees. 

When  we  got  down  into  the  heavily  timbered  bottom 
near  the  river,  the  trail  divided  into  a hundred  branches, 
showing  that  the  party  had  either  separated  to  rest  or  to 
seek  for  the  best  crossing-place.  The  former  I recom- 


CROSSING  THE  RIVER. 


41 


mended  lo  my  companions,  while  I immediately  set  about 
the  latter.  After  a tedious  and  patient  search,  I found 
the  place  where  the  main  trail  entered  the  water,  but 
with  the  most  careful  observation  of  the  opposite  bank, 
I was  unable  to  see  any  signs  of  its  continuation  on  that 
side.  While  with  the  Indians,  I had  remarked  that,  in 
order  to  avoid  deep  water,  they  sometimes  went  a long 
way  up  or  down  the  course  of  a river ; but  even  with  the 
help  of  my  telescope,  I could  see  no  sign  of  the  continu- 
ation of  our  trail.  Of  course,  my  office  of  guide  left  me 
no  choice  as  to  whether  I should  try  and  discover  the 
ford  ; though  the  experiment  was  not  agreeable,  as  the 
river  was  from  one  hundred  and  fifty  to  two  hundred 
yards  wide,  and  so  swollen  and  muddy  from  the  present 
and  late  rain,  that  it  was  not  easy  to  ascertain  its  depth 
otherwise  than  by  sounding. 

I must  confess  that  I am  but  an  indifferent  swimmer  in 
a strong  stream,  although  I did  not  on  this  occasion  feel 
any  doubt  of  being  able  to  get  across  a channel  of  so  in- 
considerable a length.  Arming  myself  with  a long  pole, 
and  throwing  off  my  jacket,  I went  in.  I was  soon  over 
the  middle,  before  I got  half  way  across,  was  up  to  the 
chest,  and  could  not  keep  my  feet,  owing  lo  the  strength 
of  the  current ; so  I struck  out,  swam  a few  strokes,  and 
tried  again  for  the  bottom,  but  could  not  touch  it : I there- 
fore thought  it  better  to  swim  till  I was  near  the  bank,  as 
this  was  evidently  the  deep  part  of  the  channel..  I did 
so,  and  came  safe  to  land.  After  another  tedious  search 
for  the  trail,  I found  it  about  three  hundred  yards  below 
the  place  where  I had  crossed.  I now  entered  the  water 
again,  and  with  some  trouble  made  out  the  ford,  and  re- 
turned to  conduct  my  companions  and  the  baggage.  By 
feeling  the  way  carefully  with  my  pole,  and  winding 
along  a kind  of  ridge,  which  appeared  to  be  in  the  bed 
of  the  river,  I was  able  to  get  them  over  without  their 
getting  wet  much  above  the  middle  and  of  the  animals, 
I believe  only  the  mule  and  one  of  the  horses  were 
obliged  to  swim  a short  distance. 

The  wetting  hereby  incurred  was  of  little  consequence 
to  ourselves  or  baggage,  for  the  river  only  completed 
what  the  rain  had  performed  almost  as  successfully. 

D* 


42 


SUCCESSFUL  EXPEI/IENF. 


And  as  soon  as  we  were  all  safe  on*  the  north  side,  we 
were  obliged  to  camp  immediately,  as  it  was  growing 
dark,  and  all  the  activity  we  possessed  was  required  to 
collect  fire-wood,  and  endeavour  to  make  a good  fire  for  the 
night.  We  fortunately  found  an  old  Indian  camp  ; some 
of  the  bent  willows, over  which  the  skins  had  been  spread, 
were  still  in  the  ground,*  and  a few  remnants  of  half-char- 
red wood  were  scattered  about ; but  even  with  these  ad- 
vantages, it  is  inconceivable  the  trouble  which  we  had 
to  kindle  a fire  ; the  grass  and  the  wood  were  so  saturated 
with  water,  that,  although  we  once  or  twice  succeeded 
in  igniting  the  tinder,  we  could  find  nothing  to  which  we 
could  make  it  communicate  fire  nor  do  I think  that  we 
should  have  succeeded,  had  I not  thought  of  a new  pa- 
tent kind  of  grate  which  does  the  highest  honour  to  my 
ingenuity  : this  was  nothing  less  than  our  frying-pan. 
After  rubbing  it  quite  dry,  and  throwing  a skin  over  the 
willows  to  prevent  the  heavy  rain  from  falling  into  it,  we 
split  some  old  wood,  got  a few  dry  chips  from  the  heart, 
and  built  our  miniature  bonfire  in  the  centre  of  the  fry- 
ing-pan. The  expedient  succeeded  perfectly  : as  soon 
as  we  had  got  four  or  five  square  inches  of  wood  fairly 
into  a blaze,  we  transferred  it  carefully  to  the  ground 
below  the  warming-pan,  and  by  careful  addition  of  fuel; 
and  constant  application  of  human  bellows,  we  soon  had 
a very  respectable  fire,  and  made  a pot  of  hot  soup,  which 
the  fatigues  and  constant  soaking  to  which  we  had  been 
all  day  exposed,  rendered  most  acceptable. 

* I believe  that  the  simple  method  of  making  a tent  or  covering,  by 
stretching  mats  or  skins  over  pliant  sticks  of  wood,  the  two  ends  of 
which  are  fastened  in  the  ground,  is  common  to  all  the  vagrant  and  no- 
madic tribes  on  the  earth  : I have  seen  them  used  among  many  various 
Indian  nations,  resembling  exactly  those  made  by  the  wandering  gyp- 
sies in  England. 


UNCOMFORTABLE  NIGHT. 


43 


CHAPTER  III. 

Uncomfortable  Night. — Our  wretched  Appearance  and  forlorn  Costume. 
— Unceasing  Rain. — Symptoms  of  Ague. — Fruitless  Hunt. — Conso- 
lation in  Disappointment. — Pursuit  of  the  Northern  Trail. — Lucky 
Discovery. — Arrival  at  our  old  Camping-place. — Diminution  of  our 
Provisions. — Forced  Marches. — Pursuit  of  a Flock  of  Turkeys  and 
a Fawn. — A gray  Badger  shot  and  eaten. — A Thunder-storm. — Re- 
lics of  our  former  Halting-place. — Our  miserable  Plight. — Grouse,  or 
Prairie-hen. — Unsuccessful  Search  for  Deer. — A Tangled  District. — 
Privations. — March  resumed. — Vicissitudes  of  Temperature. — Mer- 
riment of  the  younger  John. — Indian  Trails. — Horse-flies. — Flowers 
of  the  Prairie. — Approach  to  the  Missouri. — Welcome  Signs  of  Ci- 
vilization.— An  Amusing  Difficulty. — Hospitable  Reception  at  the 
Fort. 

July  22d. — I do  not  remember  ever  to  have  spent  a 
more  uncomfortable  night  than  the  last : it  rained  with- 
out ceasing,  and  the  most  constant  exertion  was  requi- 
site to  prevent  the  fire  from  being  quite  extinguished. 
As  it  was,  instead  of  a blaze,  it  emitted  a kind  of  sultry, 
cheerless  glare,  and,  instead  of  heat,  a hissing,  frizzing 
sound,  with  volumes  of  smoke.  We  wTere  lying  in  the 
same  clothes  in  which  we  had  crossed  the  river,  and  the 
rain  was  so  continuous,  that  we  were  actually  in  puddles  * 
of  water.  Buffalo-skins,  when  thoroughly  drenched,  are 
the  most  cold,  soapy,  comfortless  covering  that  can  be 
used  : so  that  I was  warmer,  when  wrapped  only  in  my 
light  highland  plaid,  than  under  the  thickest  robe  in  our 
collection.  We  contrived,  however,  by  the  help  of  dou- 
ble and  treble  folds  of  the  fly-tent,  to  keep  our  powder, 
flour,  and  some  of  the  provisions,  tolerably  dry.  Blow- 
ing and  feeding  the  fire  was  our  only  occupation  all  the 
night,  and  all  the  following  day  ; hot  soup  was  our  only 
consolation  ! Indeed,  I never  saw  a more  ragged,  wretch- 
ed, vagabond  group  than  we  now  appeared  ; and  I regret 
very  much  that  there  was  no  artist  present,  who  could 
give  a faithful  sketch  of  us  in  our  various  costumes,  as 
we  sat  huddled  round  our  dim  and  smoky  fire,  each  en- 


44 


OUR  WRETCHED  APPEARANCE. 


deavouring  to  extract  a small  blaze  to  warm  some  fa- 
voured part  of  his  person. 

My  companion  V , whose  last  pair  of  trousers  had 

yielded  to  the  combined  influence  of  time  and  hard  rid- 
ing, was  dressed  in  a pair  of  shrivelled,  tight,  wash- 
leather  drawers,  no  stockings,  and  a pair  of  mocassins 
over  his  feet,  while  his  shoulders  were  enveloped  in  a 
blanket  which  covered  the  remains  of  what  had  been 
shirt  and  jacket.  I was  sitting  with  an  old  woollen  co- 
loured nightcap  on  my  head,  a faded  shirt  of  printed  cali- 
co, without  a neckcloth,  and  with  beard  and  mustaches 
of  unshorn,  irregular  growth;  while  my  nether  man  was 
protected  by  a pair  of  coarse  corduroy  breeches  without 
drawers,  and  plastered  to  my  skin  with  wet ; gray  worst- 
ed stockings  full  of  holes,  and  shoes  full  of  water. 

Our  two  attendants  were  no  bad  companions  to  the  pre- 
ceding portraits,  especially  my  Scotch  servant,  who  add- 
ed to  the  picturesque  scarcity  of  his  habiliments,  a vi- 
sage of  most  dolorous  and  ridiculous  length.  The  pas- 
sage through  the  late  thickets  had  literally  torn  to  shreds 
what  had  once  been  a pair  of  cloth  trousers,  and  his 
knees  and  shins,  thus  exposed  to  view,  bore  many  marks 
of  the  greetings  which  they  had  met  from  various  kinds 
of  brushwood.  No  less  ragged  was  the  dirty  blanket 
which  enveloped  his  shoulders  ; and  his  condition  would 
have  moved  pity  rather  than  mirth,  had  it  not  been  for 
*the  determination  he  evinced  to  be  miserable,  which  con- 
trasted strongly  with  the  good-humoured  efforts  of  the 
younger  lad  to  make  the  best  of  the  case,  and  to  cheer 
himself  and  the  rest  of  the  party  with  such  sallies  of 
mirth  and  hope  as  naturally  arose  out  of  our  condition. 
Among  these,  none  were  more  frequent  than  his  antici- 
pations of  the  havoc  he  would  make  (as  soon  as  we 
reached  the  Fort)  among  his  mother’s  buckwheat  cakes, 
and  “the  sort  of  way”  in  which  he  would  dip  his  muz- 
zle into  a great  bowl  of  buttermilk  ! 

On  the  23d,  our  condition  was  yet  more  pitiable  ! It 
bad  rained  throughout  the  preceding  day  and  night,  mak- 
ing in  all  nearly  forty-eight  hours  that  we  ourselves,  with 
all  our  clothes  and  the  greater  part  of  our  baggage,  had 
been  soaked  in  wet.  It  seemed  impossible  that  we 


CONSOLATION. 


45 


should  escape  colds,  rheumatism,  ague,  el  hoc  genus 
omne ; indeed,  1 heard  around  me  sundry  complaints  of 
a sensation  of  shivering,  and  of  severe  pains  in  the 
bones  ; but,  upon  the  whole,  the  health  of  the  party,  con- 
sidering the  circumstances,  was  most  surprising.  As  for 
myself,  I did  not  suffer  any  pain  or  annoyance  whatever  ; 
I managed  to  keep  myself  \farm  during  the  day  by  mov- 
ing about,  collecting  and  carrying  wood,  nursing  the  fire, 
&c. ; and  at  night,  placing  my  feet  close  to  it,  and  wrap- 
ped in  my  highland  plaid,  I slept  as  soundly  as  if  I had 
been  in  a dry  bed. 

About  noon,  the  weather  cleared,  and  we  began  to  dry 
our  meat,  baggage,  &c.  The  lad  took  a ramble  with  his 
fowling-piece,  and  saw  some  turkeys  and  three  elks,  but 
he  could  not  get  near  enough  for  a shot ; so  he  returned 
and  asked  me  to  go  in  search  of  them  with  him.  I took 
my  rifle  and  went  to  the  spot,  but  we  could  see  nothing 
more  of- the  game  : we  found  the  track  of  the  elks,  but 
they  had  evidently  been  alarmed  by  his  previous  visit, 
for  their  slot  indicated  speed.  In  returning  to  our  camp, 
I saw  nothing  but  an  old  crane  fishing  in  a shallow  part 
of  the  river.  I believe  I was  moved  as  much  by  spite 
and  disappointment  at  my  fruitless  hunt,  as  by  a wish  to 
discharge  my  rifle,  which  had  been  too  long  loaded,  when 
I presented  it  at  this  feathered  fisherman  : both  barrels 
missed  fire,  the  powder  having  become  damp,  through 
the  continued  rain  to  which  we  had  been  so  long  exposed. 
Meantime,  ihe  crane,  startled  by  the  sound  of  the  rifle- 
lock,  turned  his  long  neck  and  looked  at  me  with  an  ex- 
pression which  appeared  peculiarly  insolent  and  con- 
temptuous, then  spreading  his  broad  oars,  sailed  slowly 
away.  While  returning  to  camp,  I consoled  myself  by 
reflecting  how  provoked  I should  have  been  had  I suc- 
ceeded in  getting  within  reach  of  a herd  of  elks,  and  had 
my  two  barrels  then  missed  fire. 

I recommend  this  consolatory  philosophy  as  a specific 
against  impatience  ; for  in  all  our  disappointments  or 
failures,  we  know  so  little  about  the  consequences  of 
success,  that  we  may  have  been  fondly  pursuing  what 
would  have  proved  our  ruin,  and  be  vainly  regretting 
that  which  has  been  the  means  of  our  preservation.  I 


46 


the  northern  trail. 


once  knew  a man  who  was  pressed  by  urgent  business, 
and  who  arrived  a few  minutes  too  late  for  the  boat  in 
which  he  wished  to  embark  : he  was  most  vexed  and 
irritated,  and  had  scarcely  recovered  his  good-humour, 
when  he  learned  that  the  boat  had  been  lost,  and  few  of 
the  passengers  had  escaped. 

24th. — Our  spirits  and  our  persons  were  again  damped 
this  morning  by  heavy  showers  of  rain,  which  continued 
until  near  noon  ; and  as  our  stock  of  provisions  began  to 
grow  exceedingly  scant,  I determined  to  move  onward 
at  all  events.  Fortunately  the  weather  cleared  about 
twelve,  and  I struck  into  the  trail,  which  still  continued 
north-north-east.  This  course  did  not  suit  us,  and  I felt 
inclined  to  believe  that  it  would  take  us  to  the  Otoe  vil- 
lage ; but  as  I felt  sure  that  we  had  now  crossed  the 
Kanzas  from  fifty  to  one  hundred  miles  lower  than  the 
point  where  we  had  crossed  it  in  our  outward  journey,  it 
was  evident  that  by  going  now  nearly  north,  we  must 
ere  long  cross  the  trail  which  we  had  made  in  going  to 
the  westward  : I hoped  we  should  easily  recognize  it  and 
follow  it  to  the  Fort.  For  these  reasons  I pursued  the 
northern  trail,  instead  of  travelling  east  or  east  by  north, 
which  was  our  proper  course. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  we  saw  several  small  trails, 
but  none  of  them  enticed  me  to  quit  the  one  on  which  I 
was  moving. 

On  the  25th  we  came  to  a large  cross  trail ; and,  on 
setting  my  compass,  I found  that  it  ran  east  and  by  south, 
and  the  direction  was,  according  to  my  calculation,  pre- 
cisely that  of  our  old  trail,  and  I felt  sure  that  we  had 
struck  it.  I looked  around  in  hope  of  finding  some  land- 
mark that  I could  remember,  but  could  discern  none,  and 
am  obliged  to  confess  my  want  of  local  memory  on  this 
occasion.  None  of  my  companions  could  recollect  the 
spot  or  any  of  the  objects  in  view ; one  of  them,  the 
American  lad,  said  he  thought  it  was  the  right  trail ; the 
other  two  held  a contrary  opinion.  One  thing  at  least  I 
was  confident  of,  namely,  that  if  it  was  not  our  own  old 
trail,  it  was  one  which  bore  the  right  course  for  our  jour- 
ney, and  I determined  immediately  to  follow  it.  I had 
not  done  so  two  hundred  yards,  when  1 saw  a small 


OLD  CAMPING  PLACE. 


47 


white  object  in  the  grass  close  to  the  path  ; I dismounted 
to  examine  it,  and  found  that  which  dispelled  ail  doubts 
in  a moment : it  was  neither  more  nor  less  than  a small 
torn  slip  of  paper,  which  had,  probably,  been  used  for 
lighting  or  wrapping  a cigar ; the  printing  on  it  was 
still  legible,  and  it  was  part  of  an  advertisement  in  the 
London  Times  newspaper.  I carried  it  in  triumph  to 
the  rest  of  the  party,  and  asked  them,  who  but  myself 
was  likely  to  have  left  a morsel  of  a London  newspaper 
it  that  wilderness.  We  needed  no  farther  proof,  but 
pursued  the  trail  joyfully  ; though  I confess,  I wondered 
how  the  paper  could  have  resisted  the  rains  and  dews  of 
two  months  so  as  still  to  retain  the  impression  of  the 
print. 

I now  pushed  forward,  and  determined  to  reach  the 
camping-place  where  we  had  stopped  in  our  outward 
march  ; a few  hours’  travel  brought  us  to  it.  We  re- 
membered the  spot  perfectly,  and  found  our  own  old 
tent-poles;  we  did  not  use  them,  but  it  was  really  a 
pleasure  to  lie  down  on  the  same  tuft  of  grass  on  which 
we  had  been  stretched  two  months  before,  and  we  felt  as 
if  at  home.  The  neighbourhood  abounded  in  most  deli- 
cious pea-vine  pasture  for  the  horses,  which  we  hobbled 
and  turned  loose ; and  while  the  rest  of  the  party  pre- 
pared supper,  I employed  my  pencil  in  making  some  of 
these  hasty  notes.  If  my  memory  served  me  rightly,  I 
suppose  that  we  were  now  seven  or  eight  days’  journey 
from  the  Fort ; and  on  examination  of  our  provision  stock 
convinced  me  of  the  unpleasant  but  evident  necessity 
for  diminishing  our  daily  allowance  by  nearly  one  half : 
our  flour  was  nearly  exhausted,  and  we  could  only  afford 
henceforward  to  use  half-a-pint  a day,  which  is  rather 
short  commons  for  four  hungry  travellers. 

It  will  be  remembered,  that  in  going  out  we  made 
forced  marches,  in  order  to  overtake  the  great  body  of 
Pawnees ; and  I wished  now  to  perform  the  same  daily 
journeys  in  order  to  ensure  the  finding  a good  camping- 
place,  water,  and  the  remains  of  gathered  wood  which 
had  not  been  consumed.  It  was  as  much  as  we  could 
do  to  urge  on  our  sore-backed  and  leg-weary  steeds, 
without  losing  any  time  in  attempting  to  hunt  for  game. 


48 


FLOCK  OF  TURKEYS. 


Moreover,  in  order  to  prevent  their  failing  and  stopping 
short  from  exhaustion,  we  were  obliged  to  perform  a 
great  part  of  the  journey  on  foot.  My  attachment  to  my 
trusty  roan,  (which  was  indeed  fresh  and  unwearied,  but 
began  to  be  severely  galled  in  several  places  by  girth 
and  saddle)  induced  me  to  walk  a great  deal ; and  this 
pedestrian  exercise,  added  to  my  duties  as  guide,  gave 
me  so  much  employment,  that  when  we  halted  at  mid- 
day I was  more  disposed  for  rest  and  food  than  for  an 
excursion  with  the  rifle.  Indeed,  I had  this  day  seen  a 
magnificent  herd  of  elks  in  some  broken  ravines  to  the 
left  of  our  path,  and  am  convinced  that,  from  the  nature 
of  the  ground  and  the  direction  of  the  wind,  I could  easily 
have  killed  one  or  two  of  them,  had  I halted  the  party 
and  gone  after  them  ; but  the  camping-place  and  the  Fort 
were  now  so  completely  the  master-objects  of  my  wishes, 
that  I saw  them  trot  off  with  as  much  nonchalance  as  if 
I had  been  looking  at  fallow-deer  in  an  English  park. 

The  26th  was  a beautiful  morning.  After  travelling 
three  hours,  the  trail  bearing  east-south-west,  I was 
half  a mile  a head  of  my  party,  when  crossing  a wooded 
ravine  a flock  of  turkeys,  containing  I think  fifty  or  six- 
ty, rose  and  flew  to  a neighbouring  thicket : as  they 
were  on  the  wing  I fired  a ball  at  random  among 
them  ; it  broke  two  or  three  feathers,  but  killed  none. 
When  my  companions  arrived,  I halted  them  for  half 
an  hour,  and  went  with  the  young  American  lad  in  pursuit 
of  them  ; but  they  had  beat  us  completely  in  the  thicket, 
and  we  saw  nothing  more  of  them.  Had  we  got  them 
out  on  the  open  prairie  we  should  have  had  excellent 
sport.  A wild  turkey  runs  with  exceeding  swiftness, 
but  he  cannot  keep  it  up  very  long,  and  his  wings  are  not 
proportioned  to  the  great  weight  of  his  body,  so  as  to 
enable  him  to  fly  far.  I have  been  told,  that  on  a fair 
plain  without  trees,  an  active  Indian,  or  white  man,  could 
run  one  down  in  little  more  than  an  hour. 

We  resumed  our  route,  and  halted  about  noon  to  rest 
the  horses.  I again  set  out  with  my  rifle,  accompanied 
by  the  younger  John,  to  see  if  we  could  procure  some 
fresh  meat.  After  a tolerably  long  walk,  we  sprung  a 
fine  fawn  from  a small  ravine  which  we  were  trying ; as 


A GRAY  BADGER. 


49 


it  dashed  up  the  opposite  bank,  I fired  and  broke  a fore- 
leg ; it  fell,  but  got  up  and  scrambled  over  the  hill  side  : 
young  John  pursued  it  for  some  distance,  but  lost  it  in  a 
thicket.  I could  not  join  in  the  pursuit,  for  the  ravine 
was  so  tangled  with  brushwood  that  I could  not  cross  it 
in  less  than  ten  minutes.  As  John  had  been  previously 
on  the  opposite  bank  he  had  lost  no  time,  and  when  I 
emerged  from  the  hollow,  neither  he  nort  he  deer  was  visi- 
ble ; he  soon  re-appeared  however,  and  told  me  of  his 
ill-success. 

We  continued  our  walk,  without  seeing  either  elk  or 
common  deer  ; when  suddenly,  as  we  were  crossing  a 
high  stony  ridge,  he  pointed  out  an  animal  moving  along 
it  which  stopped  behind  a great  stone  and  thence  peeped 
out,  staring  at  11s.  We  were  now  savage  and  hungry, 
and  ready  to  devour  a wolf,  if  we  could  get  nothing  bet- 
ter ; so  1 levelled  my  rifle  and  shot  this  unknown  skulker 
by  the  stone.  On  going  up  to  him  he  proved  to  be  a 
gray  badger.  I know  that  in  the  north-west  highlands  of 
Scotland,  this  animal  is  sometimes  eaten,  and  his  hams 
(when  cured)  are  considered  a great  delicacy.  My 
young  companion  made  rather  a wry  face  at  the  idea  of 
feeding  on  what  he  had  always  considered  abominable 
vermin,  but  professed  himself  open  to  conviction  and 
willing  to  make  the  experiment  : so  we  forthwith  skin- 
ned and  cleaned  the  creature ; and  as  I felt  sure  that 
neither  my  German  friend  nor  my  Scotch  servant  would 
taste  it  if  they  knew  what  it  was,  I determined  to  play 
them  a trick  for  their  own  advantage.*  We  according- 
ly cut  off  its  head  and  tail  ; and  carrying  it  back  to  the 
camp,  told  them  we  had  brought  them  a young  bear-cub  ! 
They  both  examined  it,  and  neither  detected  the  imposi- 
tion. 

We  made  our  soup,  and  I broiled  my  badger  : his 
own  fat  was  all  the  basting  that  he  required  ; and  when 
he  was  served  up,  we  all  agreed  that  we  never  had  eaten 
more  sweet  or  excellent  meat : it  had  but  one  fault,  being 


* Succhj  amari  ingannato  intanto  ei  beve, 

E dal’  inganno  suo  vita  riceve  ! 

Gerusalcmme  Liberata , Canto  I. 


Vol.  II.— E 


50 


THUNDER 'STORM. 


so  exceedingly  fat  that  it  surpassed  in  that  respect  any 
pig  or  other  animal  that  I ever  saw  ; fortunately  it  was 
young,  or  it  could  not  have  been  so  tender  as  it  actually 
was.  While  we  were  eating  it  the  younger  Johu  cast 
many  significant  and  comic  glances  at  me,  and  I had  the 
greatest  difficulty  in  maintaining  my  gravity  ; however 
I did  so,  and  in  order  to  heighten  the  effect  of  the  joke,  I * 
contrived  to  turn  the  conversation  upon  the  various  meats 
and  animals  which  prairie  travellers  might  be  often  con- 
strained by  hunger  to  eat.  After  mentioning  in  succes- 
sion the  beaver,  the  fox,  the  bear,  the  wolf,  &c.,  J said 
to  the  elder  John,  “ Supposing  we  were  hard  pressed  for 
food,  how  would  you  like  to  partake  of  a badger?”  The 
answer,  most  emphatically  delivered  with  a visage  of 
horror  and  disgust,  was,  “ Lord  ! sir,  I’d  rather  siarve 
than  eat  that  nasty  vermin  !”  We  concluded  our  dinner, 
and  our  two  unconscious  badger-fed  companions  pro- 
secuted their  journey  merrily,  congratulating  themselves 
on  the  excellent  dinner  which  the  young  bear  had  af- 
forded. So  much  for  prejudice. 

On  the  28th,  our  bad  luck  in  respect  to  weather  had 
not  yet  left  us  ! On  the  afternoon  of  the  27th,  there 
came  on  a tremendous  thunder-storm,  accompanied  by 
showers  of  rain  and  sleet,  driven  by  as  cold  and  piercing 
a north-easter  as  ever  I felt  in  a British  November  : we 
ourselves  and  our  baggage,  were  soon  completely  wetted.  • 
We  could  not  sit  upon  our  horses,  but  walked  by  the 
side  of  them,  blowing  our  finger  ends,  and  endeavouring 
to  shelter  ourselves,  by  getting  to  the  lee-side  of  the  tired 
animals  ; but  even  they  could  not  face  the  pelting  of  the 
storm,  and  more  than  once  turned  their  tails  to  it,  fright- 
ened and  shivering,  and  regardless  of  our  efforts  to  urge 
them  forward.  Of  course  the  blasts  of  wind  and  rain 
were  fitful  and  varied  in  their  force,  but  they  continued 
more  or  less,  without  intermission,  until  evening.  At 
length,  and  not  before  dusk,  wearied  and  drenched,  we 
reached  our  place  of  encampment.  It  was  above  a hun- 
dred yards  from  the  line  of  the  trail  ; nevertheless,  as 
soon  as  we  approached  it  my  sagacious  roan  pricked 
her  ears,  gave  a kind  of  grunt  of  mingled  recognition  and 
satisfaction,  trotted  off  to  the  spot,  and  began  snuffing 


OUR  SUPPER. 


51 


and  smelling  at  the  twisted  osier  and  other  relics  of  our 
former  halt  : — sensible,  faithful,  and  half-reasoning  brute! 
tired,  wet,  and  cold  as  I was,  I could  not  omit  noticing 
her  sagacity  and  power  of  memory. 

Those  who  live  in  the  civilized  wrorld,  even  if  accus- 
tomed to  hunting,  shooting,  and  other  field  sports,  can 
scarcely  imagine  the  miserable  discomfort  of  arriving, 
after  a toilsome  march,  weary  and  drenched  with  rain, 
at  a halting-place,  where  the  grass,  the  wood,  everything 
around  is  also  wet ; the  skins  and  baggage  all  soaked  and 
soiled  ; not  a dry  shred  of  clothing  to  put  on,  and  even 
the  fire,  by  which  alone  warmth  or  food  is  to  be  pro- 
cured, requiring  an  hour’s  assiduous  nursing  and  shelter- 
ing, and  blowing,  before  it  attains  power  sufficient  to 
warm  a little  finger,  or  heat  a cup  of  water ! Such  was 
our  plight ! Nevertheless,  complaint  was  of  no  use,  and 
we  did,  at  length,  make  a tolerable  fire,  and  boil  a pot  of 
most  excellent  buffalo-soup ; flavoured  on  this  occasion 
by  the  addition  of  two  brace  of  grouse,*  which  I had 
fortunately  shot  in  the  morning  before  the  rain  came  on. 
One  brace  I felt  not  a little  proud  of,  as  they  had  risen 
just  before  my  mare  while  on  the  journey,  and  I killed 
them  right  and  left  without  dismounting  : they  were 
deliciously  tender,  and  the  flavour  seemed  to  me  equal 
to  that  of  any  birds  which  I had  ever  tasted.  But  it 
must  be  owned  that  Lazenby  never  made  a sauce  so 
appetizing, t as  that  with  which  our  day’s  journey  had 
furnished  us  : be  that  as  it  may,  our  supper  was  most 
excellent,  and  I do  positively  declare  my  belief,  that 
pleasure  is  meant  to  triumph  over  pain  in  this  world  ! for 
I felt  much  greater  satisfaction  in  toasting  my  feet  by 
the  fire,  enjoying  my  hot  prairie-hen  and  buffalo-soup, 
and  afterwards  a few  consolatory  whiffs  from  my  pipe, 
than  I had  experienced  annoyance  from  the  sleet,  the 
cold,  or  the  fatigue  of  the  whole  day. 

I must  however  confess,  that  I found  my  wet  clothes 

* The  “ Tetrao  Canadensis,”  usually  called  the  Prairie-hen  in  the 
Western  States,  and  found  in  great  abundance  in  Wisconsin,  Illinois, 
Indiana,  &c. 

t I believe  the  English  language  is  indebted  to  me  for  importing  this 
word  from  France  1 


SEARCH  FOR  DEER. 


rather  unpleasant  during  the  night.  We  huddled  closely 
together,  and  steamed  away  enveloped  in  skins,  with  our 
feet  so  close  to  the  fire,  that  once  or  twice  we  had  to 
jump  up  and  put  a spark  out  which  fell  upon  us.  The 
dew  was  extremely  heavy,  and  the  cold  just  before  dawn 
most  severe ; so  that  we  were  not  sorry,  when  morning- 
broke,  to  see  a rosy  young  sun  emerging  from  the  east- 
ern haze.  We  were  obliged  to  continue  our  halt  in  order 
to  dry  our  skins  and  provisions ; both  of  which  were  ex- 
posed to  immediate  risk  of  corruption,  by  the  constant 
wetting  to  which  they  had  been  exposed. 

While  my  companions  attended  to  these  things,  and 
collected  the  horses  which  had  strayed  to  some  distance, 
I took  my  rifle  and  went  in  search  of  elk  or  antelope. 
My  evil  genius  led  me  along  a bottom,  or  valley,  near 
which  we  were  camped,  and  a more  impracticable  place 
for  hunting  I never  beheld  : after  four  or  five  hours’ 
struggling  and  scrambling,  rather  than  walking,  I re- 
turned without  having  killed  or  seen  a deer. 

My  fatigue  and  ill-success  are  easily  accounted  for  by 
the  nature  of  the  ground  which  I had  been  traversing  : 
the  brushwood,  through  which  I had  to  force  my  way, 
was  from  six  to  eight  feet  high,  and  very  thick  ; more- 
over it  was  full  of  plum  trees  and  prickly  briars,  matted 
together  with  the  tough  cords  of  the  pea-vine  ; while 
every  now  and  then  I had  my  shins  bruised,  and  my  feet 
entangled  among  the  jagged  limbs  of  fallen  timber  of  a 
former  generation  with  which  the  ground  was  strewn. 
To  these  obstacles  were  to  be  added  a number  of  creeks, 
with  rotten  banks  overgrown  with  reeds,  too  wide  for  a 
leap,  and  yet  too  muddy  and  deep  for  wading.  It  will 
easily  be  believed  that,  in  such  a district,  a single  hunter 
has  little  prospect  of  killing  deer;  the  only  chance  of 
sport  would  be  for  a party  to  scatter  themselves  in  dif- 
ferent directions,  and  watch  the  paths  leading  from  the 
thickets  and  the  deer  beds  to  the  water,  whither  the 
animals  generally  go  at  noon  to  drink. 

On  the  29th  Fate  seemed  still  resolved  that  we  should 
not  reach  the  Fort  without  suffering  some  privations  ; for 
an  examination  of  our  provender  convinced  me  that  we 
had  little  more  than  enough  for  four  days,  at  our  present 


MARCH  RESUMED. 


53 


allowance  ; and  as  we  had  at  least  a week’s  journey  be- 
fore ns,  I was  obliged,  however  unwillingly,  to  limit  our 
rations  to  half  the  former  quantity;  that  is,  to  allow,  ex- 
clusive of  our  dried  meat,  only  a pint  of  maize  and  one 
tin-cup  of  flour  per  diem  among  ihe  whole  party.  How- 
ever, we  had  yet  a little  coffee,  and  if  we  could  but 
travel,  there  would  be  no  reason  to  fear  any  serious  in- 
convenience from  our  scant  and  reduced  diet.  Never- 
theless, it  was  impossible  to  move  this  day  owing  to  the 
continual  rain  ; so  I again  sallied  forth  in  the  faint  hope 
of  procuring  a fresh  supply  of  meat. 

Although  my  shooting-jacket  was  thick,  and  I walked 
fast,  I do  not  remember  to  have  ever  encountered  a more 
raw  and  bitter  sharpness  in  the  air,  even  on  a moor  in  a 
Scottish  December,  than  I experienced  during  this  dis- 
agreeable walk,  from  which  I returned  after  three  hours’ 
fruitless  fatigue  thoroughly  drenched,  cold,  and  dispirited, 
without  having  seen  a living  animal. 

The  morning  of  the  30th  dawned  fresh  and  clear.  We 
broke  camp  at  sunrise,  and  travelled  all  day,  with  only 
one  hour’s  rest  at  noon,  as  I was  determined,  if  possit  le, 
again  to  reach  our  old  camping-place  : in  this  I succeed- 
ed, and  just  before  reaching  it,  was  aware  of  three  deer 
within  rifle-shot  of  the  trail.  Unfortunately,  I had  mount- 
ed my  shot-barrels  a few  hours  before,  in  order  to  kill  a 
prairie-hen,  (the  only  one  which  I had  seen  on  this  long 
day’s  march  ;)  and  before  I could  replace  them  by  the 
rifle-barrels,  the  deer  had  taken  to  the  bush.  I followed 
them,  and  was  at  one  time  near  enough  to  hear  them 
bounding  and  breaking  their  way  through  the  brushwood  ; 
but  I could  not  get  a shot,  or  even  a sight  of  them  ; so  I 
was  obliged  to  rejoin  my  friends,  having  nothing  but  my 
solitary  prairie-hen  to  add  to  our  scanty  mess. 

Never  have  I been  exposed  to  such  strange  vicissi- 
tudes of  temperature.  I had  no  thermometer,  and  a guess 
is  almost  always  an  exaggeration  ; but  I cannot  help  be- 
lieving, that,  on  the  preceding  day,  while  the  severest 
exercise,  and  my  thickest  coat,  could  scarcely  protect  me 
from  the  cold  sleet,  enough  to  keep  my  blood  in  circula- 
tion, it  must  have  been  as  low  as  40a  of  Fahrenheit;  and 
this  day,  at  noon,  without  a jacket,  and  riding  gently  with 

E* 


54 


INDIAN  TRAILS. 


only  my  blue  shirt  over  my  shoulders,  I was  perspiring 
tinder  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun,  in  a temperature  that 
must  have  been  above  lOO15.  The  nights  were  cold,  and 
the  dews  very  heavy ; but  we  had  become  so  accus- 
tomed to  sleep  in  the  open  air  with  our  feet  to  the  fire, 
that  we  preferred  it  to  the  trouble  of  stretching  the  tent, 
although  tent-poles  were  now  to  be  had  without  diffi- 
culty. 

On  the  31st  we  travelled  all  day  without  any  incidents. 
I amused  myself  by  watching  the  queer  working  of  the 
muscles  in  the  elder  John’s  face,  while  I gradually  let 
him  into  ihe  secret  that  he  had  not  very  long  ago  fed 
upon  that  “nasty  vermin”  called  a badger,  when  he 
thought  he  was  eating  a bear-cub.  As  for  the  younger 
John,  his  mirth  and  spirits  increased  every  hour  as  we 
drew  nearer  to  his  home  ; and  I could  not  resist  the  in- 
fection of  his  merriment,  while  he  mingled  snatches  of 
rough  Kentucky  songs,  and  scraps  of  negro  ballads,  with 
objurgations  to  the  hungry  and  wearied  pack-horses,  al- 
ways concluding  his  medley  with  portentous  threats  of 
the  devastation  which  he  hoped,  ere  long,  to  make  in  the 
produce  of  his  mother’s  oven,  kitchen,  and  dairy,  and  ge- 
nerally terminating  his  anticipated  feast  by  “dipping  his 
head  into  a bowl  of  buttermilk  1” 

September  1st. — This  day  was  beautiful,  and  the  heat 
of  a brilliant  sun  was  tempered  by  a refreshing  breeze. 
After  four  hours’  march,  we  reached  the  spot  where  we 
had  before  overtaken  Sanitsarish’s  party  after  losing  our 
horses.  We  halted  an  hour,  and  continued  our  course 
merrily.  Once  we  came  to  a place  where  the  trail  forked 
into  three  branches  ; I pursued  the  left  or  most  north- 
ward track,  partly  from  recollection,  and  partly  from  its 
direction  by  compass;  one  of  the  others  had  been  evi- 
dently made  by  a party  going  eastward,  whereas,  it  was 
self-evident,  that  in  our  old  trail  the  grass  must  be  beaten 
down  towards  the  west : but  even  on  this  I could  observe 
that  a party  had  passed  since  our  former  march  ; I sup- 
pose they  must  have  been  some  of  the  Kickapoos  and 
Powtawatomies  resident  near  the  Fort.  I conjectured 
also,  that  the  middle  trail  was  that  leading  to  the  Dela- 
ware and  Shawanon  settlements,  at  the  mouth  of  the 


FLOWERS  OF  THE  PRAIRIE. 


55 


Kanzas  ; and  the  southern  one  probably  made  by  a 
party  returning  to  St.  Louis,  or  some  other  point  in  Mis- 
souri. 

In  this  part  of  our  march  the  horse-flies  of  various 
kinds  gave  us  much  annoyance  ; but  I have  reason  to 
believe  that  we  should  have  suffered  a great  deal  more 
from  them,  had  we  returned  a month  earlier;  they  are 
indeed  a fearful  scourge  to  the  unfortunate  animals;  the 
quantity  of  blood  that  they  draw,  and  the  rapidity  with 
which  they  draw  it,  are  equally  astonishing;  nets, 
branches  of  trees,  &c.,  are  all  unavailing  to  keep  them  off ; 
and  I have  more  than  once  seen  the  horses  so  maddened 
and  so  covered  with  blood  by  their  bites,  that  I can  quite 
believe  what  has  been  told  me  by  Santa  Fe  traders,  that 
they  have  frequently  known  them  lie  down  and  die  from 
exhaustion  and  loss  of  blood.  Fortunately  they  do  not 
attack  mankind,  for  our  skin  would  not  cost  them  a mo- 
ment’s trouble  to  pierce,  and  the  puncture  seems  very 
large,  and  would  probably  be  attended  with  much  inflam- 
mation ; but  we  have  been  frequently  annoyed  bv  the  lo- 
custs, or  dark-coloured  cockchafers,  which  sail  along 
with  the  wind  at  great  speed,  and  are,  apparently,  quite 
blind,  for  they  come  against  the  traveller’s  face  with  a 
force  sufficient  to  sting  him  sharply,  and,  I should  think, 
to  stun  themselves. 

This  evening  we  had  a good  pot  of  soup,  as  I was  en- 
abled to  add  three  or  four  prairie-hens  to  its  strength  and 
flavour.  The  young  John  killed  a racoon,  but  it  crept 
into  a hole  before  we  could  secure  it.  We  camped  at 
our  old  place,  in  the  open  air,  as  we  decidedly  preferred 
sleeping  thus,  to  the  trouble  of  piiching  the  fly-tent. 

On  the  2d  we  travelled  on  our  former  trail,  the  weather 
rather  wild,  and  a very  high  wind.  After  about  thirty 
miles’  journey,  we  came  to  and  recognized  the  creek, 
where  our  poor  little  mule  had  been  “ mired,”  and  had 
thrown  his  load  into  the  water.  The  character  of  the 
scenery  was  much  changed  since  we  last  passed  through 
the  same  district : the  grass  was  of  a kind  of  tawny  hue  ; 
the  trees  were  changing  their  green  mantles  for  the  vari- 
ous hues  which  they  respectively  wear  in  autumn  ; and 
there  was  a greater  variety  of  flowers,  although  most  of 


56 


ANTICIPATIONS. 


them  seemed  to  have  outlived  their  prime.  Indeed,  I 
must  confess,  that  all  my  experience  of  the  great  western 
prairie  has  disappointed  my  expectation  in  respect  to 
floweis.  It  may  possibly  be  that  I was  in  the  more  re- 
mote and  barren  wilderness,  just  at  the  season  when  I 
ought  to  have  been  here  to  see  them ; but  the  fact  un- 
doubtedly is,  that  I saw  none  that  could  exceed  in  bril- 
liancy the  flaunting  colours  of  the  poppy,  or  contend  in 
sweetness  or  in  beauty  with  the  cowslip,  the  primrose,  or 
the  crimson  tints  which  fringe  the  tip  of  the  daisy,  or 
lodge  like  “drops  in  the  bottom  of  the  cowslip,” and  last, 
not  least,  the  unobtrusive  violet,  which  delights  the  senses 
both  of  sight  and  smell  in  the  meadows  and  banks  of  old 
England. 

While  riding  along  carelessly  and  observing  the  fea- 
tures of  the  surrounding  scene,  my  ear  was  struck,  and 
not  for  the  first  time,  by  the  merry  voice  of  the  younger 
John,  half  singing,  half  talking  to  his  more  moody  com- 
panion, and  telling  him  how  he  longed  to  see  his  mother, 
and  his  favourite  dog,  and  the  cows  he  used  to  drive  in 
from  pasture  ; and  how  he  would  revel  in  the  luxuries  of 
hot  cakes  and  buttermilk  ! I could  not  help  calling  to 
mind,  although  the  epithet  was  not  exactly  appropriate, 
the  beautiful  lines  of  Juvenal : — 

“ Longs  for  bis  home,  the  kids  he  used  to  pet. 

And  for  his  mother  sighs  with  sad  regret.”* 

All  the  3d,  we  travelled  without  more  halting  than  was 
absolutely  necessary,  until  we  arrived  at  the  first  memo- 
rable camping-place,  where  our  horses  had  escaped  and 
left  us.  We  remembered  having  left  a wooden  pack- 
saddle  upon  a branch  of  a great  oak  near  the  encamp- 
ment ; but,  upon  looking  for  it,  it  was  gone;  doubtless, 
having  attracted  the  quick  eye  of  some  Indian  who  had 
little  scruple  in  appropriating  the  prize.  As  I was  de- 
termined to  reach  the  Fort  this  day,  and  our  horses  were 
so  leg-weary  and  galled,  that  they  could  not  travel  fast, 
I started  very  early,  and  with  the  consent  of  the  whole 

*“  Suspirat  longo  non  visam  tempore  matrem, 

Et  casulam  et  notes  trisiis  desiderat  haedos.” 


APPROACH  THE  MISOTTRf. 


57 


4 

party,  dispensed  with  the  ceremony  of  breakfast,  except 
a small  slice  of  dried  buffalo-meat,  uncooked. 

We  were  all  in  high  spirits ; hunger,  heat,  and  fatigue, 
all  were  merged  in  the  excitement  of  again  seeing  our 
friends  and  white  brethren.  As  we  approached  the 
Missouri,  the  features  of  the  scenery  became  more  grand 
and  imposing,  the  timber  seemed  heavier,  and  the  vege- 
tation richer.  Hill  after  hill  of  this  fine  undulating  dis- 
trict was  surmounted  ; a deer  which  showed  itself  at  no 
great  distance,  was  allowed  to  go  off  unpursued  ; and  at 
length  my  eye  caught,  far  to  the  northward,  the  curved 
line  of  massive  foliage,  which  surely,  but  still  indistinctly, 
indicated  the  course  of  the  great  river.  Again  we  pressed 
forward  with  re-animated  expectation.  The  ground  rose 
gradually  before  us  for  several  miles,  and  it  was  not  until 
the  trees  were  passed  that  we  attained  the  summit  of  the 
ridge,  and  the  magnificent  monarch  of  the  floods  lay 
stretched  in  all  his  glory  before  us  ! 

Never,  under  the  influence  of  such  overwhelming  feel- 
ings, had  I seen  such  a panorama  of  beauty.  A torrent 
of  associations  never  forgotten,  but  long  dormant,  were 
awakened  and  returned  to  their  wonted  channels.  The 
buffalo  herds,  the  howl  of  wolves,  the  circles  of  naked 
savages  round  their  fires,  their  yells,  their  dances,  and 
their  songs,  were,  for  a season,  all  as  a dream  ; while 
the  neat  white-washed  wall  of  the  Fort,  seen  through  the 
irregular  glades  of  the  forest,  and  a party  of  haymakers, 
plying  their  task  in  the  prairie,  at  no  great  distance  below 
jus,  all  seemed  to  recall  the  comforts  and  the  endearments 
of  civilized  and  social  life.  I could  not  speak — I could 
not  even  think  distinctly  ; but  I made  no  exertion  to 
/arrange  my  thoughts — I rather  allowed  them  to  revel  in 
that  confusion  of  undefined  pleasure — that  delicious  tu- 
mult, which,  although  vague,  and  short-lived,  is  for  a 
time  more  enjoyable  than  gayety,  more  happy  than  even 
the  “ sober  certainty  of  waking  bliss.” 

As  we  passed  onward,  near  enough  to  the  haymakers 
to  distinguish  their  features  and  exchange  a salutation  in 
our  language,  the  sight  of  them  did  my  heart  good  ; they 
looked  like  friends  and  relatives,  and  their  voices  were 
like  old  music. 


58 


RECEPTION  AT  THE  PORT. 


When  we  arrived  near  the  Fort  an  unexpected  and 
amusing  difficulty  occurred  : no  power  could  induce  our 
Indian  pack-horses  to  approach  the  white  walls,  or  to 
pass  some  wagons  which  stood  at  a little  distance  from 
the  road  ; and  when  at  last  we  led  them  as  far  as  the 
gate  of  the  green  square,  or  inclosure,  round  which  the 
barracks  are  built,  we  were  altogether  unable  to  make 
them  pass  through  it ; they  snorted,  reared,  and  would 
have  defeated  our  attempts,  whether  at  persuasion  or 
coercion,  had  we  not  met  with  a reinforcement,  from  a 
small  body  of  soldiers  who  were  lounging  before  the  rail- 
ings, with  whose  assistance  we  contrived  to  drive  them 
through.  Then,  our  younger  John,  true  to  his  often  ex- 
pressed anticipations,  rushed  to  the  arms  of  his  mother, 
and  the  bowl  of  buttermilk.  As  soon  as  we  had  relieved 
our  wearied  horses  of  their  several  burthens,  V ac- 

companied one  of  the  officers  to  his  quarters  ; and  I 
accepted  the  hospitable  offer  of  Captain  Hunter,  now  in 
command  of  the  Fort. 

The  difficulty  I found  in  sitting  on  a chair,  the  fearful 
havoc  which  I made  among  the  various  cakes,  which 
succeeded  each  other  on  his  tea-table,  and  the  strange 
sensations  which  I experienced  on  taking  off  my  clothes, 
and  sleeping  in  a bed  between  sheets,  deserve,  and  shall 
have,  a separate  chapter. 


FEVER  AND  AGUE. 


59 


CHAPTER  IV. 


Epidemic  Fever  and  Ague.  — Hospitality  of  Captain  Hunter.  — A 
noxious  Intruder. — Visit  to  the  Kickapoo  Village. — An  Indian 
Preacher  and  Prophet. — Restrictions  similar  to  those  ir.  the  Mosiac 
Law.- — Specimen  of  an  Indian  Sermon  — Pursuit  of  a Bear. — Sale  of 
my  Horses. — Embark  for  St.  Louis  — Dangerous  Navigation. — Paw- 
paws.— Unhealthy  Appearance  of  the  Missouri  Settlers. — Republican 
Equality. — Gambling  in  the  Steamboat. — Officers  of  the  United  States 
Army. — Frequency  of  Duels — Drunkenness  among  the  common 
Soldiers. — Insubordination  and  Desertion  in  the  Army. — Arrival  at 
St.  Louis. — Catholic  Church  there. — A French  Artist. — Dulness  at 
St.  Louis. — Jefferson  Barracks  — Old  French  Village. — The  Arsenal. 
— Hospitality  of  the  commanding  Officer. — Music  in  the  house  of  Mr. 
P.,  a German  resident  in  St.  Louis. 

Fort  Leavenworth,  Sept.  6. — Great  changes  had 
taken  place  among  the  officers  composing  the  garrison, 
since  1 had  last  visited  it;  insomuch,  that  only  one  re- 
mained with  whom  I could  claim  acquaintance.  This 
post  had  been  visited  by  the  scourge  of  the  whole  Mis- 
sissippi and  Missouri  valleys,  namely,  fever  and  ague  ; 
and  it  was  painful  to  see  the  number  of  sunken  eyes  and 
ashy  cheeks  by  which  I was  surrounded. 

The  epidemic  which  had  been  so  severe  upon  the 
officers  and  men,  had  not  spared  the  good  messman  and 
his  family;  they  had  been  all  attacked  by  it,  and  were 
much  reduced : but  the  good  dame’s  joy,  when  she  had 
recovered  her  son,  (our  young  attendant,  John  Hardy,) 
was  uncontrollable  ; she  turned  him  round  and  round, 
looked  at  his  embrowned  hands,  and  his  tanned  and  un- 
shorn face,  as  if  she  could  scarcely  persuade  herself  that 
it  was  he  indeed  : she  wept  with  joy,  and  said  that  she 
had  almost  given  up  any  hope  of  ever  seeing  him  again. 
I was  delighted  to  be  able  to  restore  him  to  her,  much 
improved  both  in  appearance  and  in  qualities  ; for  when 
we  started  he  had  been  rather  inclined  to  be  indolent, 
and  was  somewhat  too  fresh  and  delicate  looking ; he 
was  now  a strong,  healthy,  and  active  lad,  willing  and 


60 


NOXIOUS  INTRUDER. 


able  to  undergo  fatigue,  and  merry  and  cheerful  in  diffi- 
culties. 

Colonel  Dodge,  the  commander,  and  his  exploring 
party,  had  not  yet  returned,  and  I found  Captain  Hunter 
in  command.  Not  content  with  the  courtesy  and  hospi- 
tality usually  shown  to  strangers  by  the  officers  on  a 
remote  station,  this  gentleman  insisted  on  my  taking  up 
my  abode  at  his  quarters,  an  arrangement  to  which  I ac- 
ceded with  pleasure.  I found  Mrs.  Hunter  am  exceed- 
ingly agreeable  and  pleasing  lady,  and  regretted  very 
much  that  an  attack  of  the  prevalent  fever  confined  her 
to  her  chamber,  so  as  to  prevent  her  appearing  in  the 
drawing-room. 

On  the  first  night  of  my  stay  under  this  hospitable  roof, 
I was  awakened  soon  after  midnight  by  hearing  my  bed- 
room door  open  : I jumped  up  and  saw  a white  figure, 
with  a candle  in  one  hand  and  a pistol  in  the  other  ! A 
second  glance  showed  me  that  it  was  Captain  Hunter; 
he  informed  me  that  the  lower  part  of  his  house  was  now 
usurped  by  “ a skunk,”  an  animal  whose  foetid  qualities 
leave  those  of  the  polecat  or  badger  far  behind.  He  had 
just  learned  that  the  intruder  was  partly  visible  under  an 
old  barrel  in  the  scullery  immediately  below  my  bed- 
room ; and,  as  he  was  proceeding  to  shoot  him,  he 
very  good  naturedly  called  me  in  passing,  that  I might 
not  be  startled  or  annoyed  by  the  discharge  of  pistols  in 
the  house  at  that  hour.  The  first  shot  did  not  prove 
fatal,  but  there  arose  from  the  wounded  skunk  such  a 
stench  as  I shall  never  forget ; in  two  minutes  it  filled 
the  whole  house,  and  even  in  my  room  with  the  door 
shut,  I could  scarcely  believe  that  the  animal  was  not 
within  six  inches  of  my  nose. 

It  is  well  known  that  nature  has  provided  all  the  vari- 
ous tribes  of  her  animated  children  with  their  respective 
means  of  self-defence  ; these  are  more  numerous  than 
they  are  usually  supposed  to  be.* 

* The  old  poet,  in  his  Qvcng  icepara  ravpoig  ( Vide  2d  Ode  of  Ana- 
creon), certainly  omitted  the  skunk,  which,  when  alarmed  or  pursued, 
emits  this  effluvium,  which  deters  his  sturdiest  persecutor ; and  also  the 
fish  which  saves  itself  from  the  jaws  of  the  dolphin,  by  giving  out  a 
dark-coloured  secretion,  which  tinges  the  water  all  around  and  renders 
him  invisible. 


&ICKAFOO  VILLAGE. 


61 


One  or  two  discharges  of  the  pistol  terminated  the  ex- 
istence of  the  skunk,  but  his  memory  lasted  the  livelong 
night ; and  I learned  from  unpleasant  experience,  that 
we  may  apply  to  this  animal  what  the  poet  has  so  pret- 
tily said  of  the  tenacious  perfume  of  the  rose  ; — 

“You  may  break,  you  may  ruin  the  vase,  if  you  will, 

But  the  scent  of  the  roses  will  hang  round  it  still.” 

I was  not  a little  amused  at  the  awkwardness  I expe- 
rienced in  a drawing-room  : I literally  felt  some  difficulty 
in  sitting  on  a chair,  so  long  had  I been  accustomed  to 
sit  cross-legged  on  the  ground  ; and  my  appetite,  as  well 
as  that  of  all  our  lit  lie  prairie  party,  might  have  threat- 
ened dearth  to  the  best  stocked  larder. 

On  the  6th,  I rode  out  with  Captain  Hunter  to  the 
Kickapoo  village,  which  is  about  five  miles  from  the 
Port.  The  Kickapoos  are  a branch  of  the  great  northern 
nation  of  Indians,  which  includes  the  Potawolomies,  the 
the  Chippeways,  and  other  numerous  tribes.  Their  for- 
mer territory  has  been  “bought”  (as  it  is  called)  by  the 
United  States,  and  this  tract  of  country  along  the  south- 
ern bank  of  the  Missouri  allotted  in  its  stead  ; beside 
which,  the  United  States  engaged  to  supply  them  for  a 
certain  time  with  a stipulated  quantity  of  provisions* 
clothes,  &c.  Living  so  near  the  settlements,  they  have 
lost  most  of  the  traits  of  their  original  character,  and  are 
a reduced  debased  race  ; nevertheless,  they  are  now  in- 
teresting m a religious  point  of  view.  A miniature  Ma- 
homet has  arisen  among  them ; and  the  tribe  is  divided 
into  two  sects — the  religious  and  irreligious;  these  are 
pretty  equal  in  number ; and  the  former  acknowledge 
and  obey  as  secular  chief  the  prophet  who  leaches  the 
new  creed.  This  man  preaches  very  good  and  enlight- 
ened morality,  He  pretends  to  have  seen  the  Great 
Spirit  in  a vision,  and  to  have  received  his  command  to 
proclaim  his  truths  and  precepts  to  the  Indians.  I should 
have  been  astonished  at  the  excellence  of  his  doctrine, 
and  the  soundness  of  his  religious  views,  if  I had  not 
learned  from  a gentlemen  long  resident  among  them,  the 
fountain  from  which  he  drew  his  knowledge.  It  appears 
Vol.  II.— F 


62 


INDIAN  PREACHER. 


that  when  very  young  he  learned  the  English  language 
thoroughly,  and  in  remote  parts  of  t he  state  of  Illinois  at- 
tended many  Christian  meetings ; he  thus  became  ac- 
quainted with  the  outlines  of  the  Christian  scheme,  and 
with  the  morality  which  the  Bible  inculcates;  and  after- 
ward grafting  the  knowledge  thus  acquired  upon  his  In- 
dian prejudices  and  superstitions,  he  has  used  it  as  an 
engine  of  personal  aggrandizement,  and  become  priest, 
prophet,  and  chief  of  half  his  nation. 

I attended  a preaching,  which  was  held  under  a large, 
open,  reed-thatched  shed.  The  meeting  was  conducted 
with  the  greatest  decorum  : all  the  men  under  or  near  the 
shed  stood  uncovered  ; but  in  this,  as  in  all  the  Christian 
churches  that  I have  seen  in  any  country,  the  greater 
part  of  the  assembly  were  females.  Each  was  supplied 
with  a flat  board,  on  which  were  carved  symbols,  which 
answered"  the  purpose  of  letters,  and  enabled  them  to 
chime  in  with  the  prayer  or  hymn  of  the  preacher. 

I remarked  that  many  women  stood  outside  this  rustic 
temple,  and  on  inquiring  the  cause,  I received  an  answer 
which  showed  how  singularly  some  Indian  customs  re- 
semble those  of  the  Jews  and  ancient  Eastern  nations. 
During  certain  periods  the  women  are  forbidden  to  enter 
any  place  where  the  “medicine”  is  kept;  and  in  some 
tribes  they  are  not  allowed  to  remain  in  their  family-tent, 
but  are  made  to  occupy  a small  wing  made  of  two  or 
three  skins  added  to  it ; in  short,  they  impose  all  the  re- 
strictions which  the  Mosaic  law  imposed  upon  a situa- 
tion over  which  the  better  and  more  enlightened  taste 
of  modern  civilization  is  content  to  throw  the  veil  of 
silence. 

I regretted  to  find  that  the  officiating  preacher  was  not 
the  “ great  prophet  himself,”  but  one  of  his  favourite  dis- 
ciples ; he  was  a man  of  middle  age,  with  a quiet  and 
earnest  expression  of  countenance,  and  a voice  capable 
of  much  modulation  and  variety  of  tone  : bespoke  with- 
out the  slightest  hesitation.  I placed  myself  within 
hearing  ; and  keeping  at  my  elbow  the  half-bred  French 
interpreter,  took  down  in  pencil  the  following  scraps  from 
his  lecture  : — “ Look  up  at  the  heavens  ! look  around 
you  at  the  earth  fertile  with  fruit,  and  the  animals  given 


PURSUIT  OF  A BEAR. 


63 


for  our  use.  All  these  show  the  goodness  of  the  Great 
Spirit.  If  He  were  not  good,  much  better  than  any  of 
us,  He  would  be  angry  with  us  ; for  we  are  all  bad  and 
disobey  Him — He  would  punish  and  not  forgive  us  : but 
if  we  are  good  and  obey  Him,  we  are  happier  and  more 
flourishing  here — all  goes  well  with  us.  We  are  but 
half-taught  children — we  are  poor  Indians;  it  is  only  a 
few  years  since  we  learned  his  will  and  commands, 
through  his  prophet ; but  if  we  ask  Him,  and  obey  Him, 
we  shall  daily  grow  wiser  and  happier,”  and  so  on  in  a 
similar  strain.  After  this  sermon,  a hymn  was  sung;  it 
was  a low,  melancholy,  and  not  unmusical  air,  and  was 
rendered  wild  and  peculiar  by  the  closing  of  each  verse 
in  the  minor  key.  I left  the  scene  with  strong  emotions 
of  interest  and  compassion,  and  must  own  that  I enter- 
tain hopes,  though  but  faint  ones,  that  this  twilight  may 
be  the  forerunner  of  the  sunrise  of  the  Gospel  among 
them. 

The  shades  of  evening  had  closed  around  us,  and  I 
returned  with  Captain  Hunter  at  a brisk  trot  toward  the 
garrison.  In  a narrow  and  abrupt  turn,  where  the  road 
crosses  the  high  ridge  behind  the  Fort,  the  horses  began 
to  snort,  and  the  dogs,  two  or  three  of  which,  of  various 
breeds,  had  accompanied  us,  began  to  utter  that  hurried 
irregular  bark,  indicative  as  much  of  terror  as  of  anger 
or  watchfulness.  We  pushed  forward  into  the  “ brush,” 
and  soon  recognized  the  enemy,  in  the  person  of  a bear, 
that  made  a speedy  retreat  into  an  adjoining  thicket ; we 
pursued  for  two  or  three  minutes,  but  the  bushes  were  so 
high  and  thick,  and  the  remaining  light  so  scanty,  that 
we  perilled  our  shins  and  trousers,  rather  more  than  the 
life  of  Bruin,  especially  as  our  canine  allies  seemed  will- 
ing to  keep  at  a respectful  distance,  and  more  disposed 
to  bark  him  to  death  than  to  adopt  any  more  effective 
measures : this  would  have  proved  a somewhat  slow 
process,  and  we  accordingly  turned  our  horses  heads, 
and  proceeded  quietly  to  the  garrison. 

I sold  all  my  horses  to  a trader,  who  was  soon  about 
to  start  for  the  mountains.  /Hiey  were  all  grazing  in  a 
rich  pea-vine  bottom,  which  had  been  enclosed  on  the 
landward  side  by  the  garrison,  while  a great  bend  of  the 


64 


EMBARK  FOR  ST.  LOUIS, 


river  effectually  protected  the  other  sides  of  it.  The 
purchaser  bought  them  without  seeing  them,  and  paid  us 
a very  moderate  price,  but  as  much  as  I thought  them 
worth.  I did  not  include  my  favourite  roan  in  this  sale  ; 
she  was  purchased  by  one  of  the  officers  of  the  Fort,  who 
promised  to  show  her  all  kindness  and  favour. 

During  the  few  days  which  I remained,  I amused  my- 
self by  visiting  some  Kickapoos  and  Powtawalomies,  in 
order  to  make  vocabularies  of  their  language.  I also 
found  a tolerably  intelligent  Delaware,  from  whom  I got 
some  information  about  his  tribe  and  tongue  ; but  I shall 
not  interrupt  my  narrative  with  any  account  of  Indian 
languages  ; the  reader  who  is  curious  on  the  subject  will 
find  it  treated  of  in  the  Appendix. 

After  enjoying  the  comforts  and  hospitality  of  these 
agreeable  quarters  for  two  or  three  days,  I took  advan- 
tage of^the  arrival  of  a steam-boat,  and  embarked  for  St. 
Louis.  I found  the  river  much  lower  than  when  I had 
passed  up  in  June,  and  the  navigation  infinitely  more  dan- 
gerous ; the  huge  black  snags  were  in  some  places  as 
thick  as  the  trees  of  the  forest,  and  as  I stood  on  the 
deck  and  looked  at  their  serried  ranks,  upon  which  we 
were  bearing  down  at  twelve  or  fourteen  miles  an  hour, 
with  all  the  united  force  of  current  and  steam,  I could  not 
trace  with  my  eye  any  course  or  channel  by  which  our 
craft  could  make  good  her  way  ; but  being  a sufficiently 
old  traveller  to  believe  that  “ everybody  knows  his  own 
business  best;”  and  seeing  that  the  captain  and  owners 
were  neither  intoxicated  nor  mad,  it  was  rather  with  cu- 
riosity and  admiration  than  alarm,  that  I saw  our  pilot 
charge  down  upon  this  forest  of  snags.  His  name  was 
Baptiste,  and  he  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated  pilots  on  the 
western  waters  ; his  countenance  was  calm  and  grave, 
and  his  quiet  piercing  eye  seemed  to  calculate  the 
number  and  position  of  the  giant  palisades  through  which 
he  was  to  force  a passage.  On  we  went,  now  rubbing 
on  the  starboard,  now  scraping  on  the  larboard  side,  but 
always  avoiding  a direct  collision.  Our  course,  though 
serpentine,  was  extremely  rapid,  and  in  a few  minutes 
the  forest  of  snags  lay  in  our  rear. 

‘ Soon  afterward,  we  struck  the  bottom,  so  hard  as  to 


DANGERS  OF  NAVIGATION. 


65 


shake  all  the  chairs  in  the  cabin,  and  to  affect  consider- 
bly  the  vertical  position  of  their  respective  tenants  ! In 
Britain,  every  soul  would  have  rushed  to  the  deck;  but 
I saw  everybody  else  remain  perfectly  quiet,  and  I did  not 
see  why  I should  give  myself  anymore  uneasiness  ihan  my 
neighbours.  I soon  found  out  that  if  a person  feels  any 
objection  to  such  an  occurrence,  he  had  better  notdescend 
the  Missouri  in  September,  as  we  grounded  frequently 
for  a few  minutes,  and  rubbed  our  keel  against  the  bed 
of  the  river  half  a dozen  limes  in  the  course  of  every 
hour. 

When  the  steam-boat  stopped  to  take  in  fuel,  I went 
ashore  and  gathered  some  fine  ripe  pawpaws ; this  was 
the  first  time  I had  tasted  this  fruit,  which  is  in  my 
opinion  one  of  the  most  delicious  in  the  world  : it  resem- 
bles very  much  the  banana  of  the  West  Indies,  but  is 
more  rich  and  luscious.  There  are  two  species,  the 
green  and  the  yellow  ; the  latter  is  preferable  : when 
opened,  the  interior  is  exactly  like  a custard,  and  the  fla- 
vour is  something  between  a fig  and  a pine-apple.  It 
reaches  a much  greater  size  in  the  West  Indies  than  oa 
the  Missouri,  and  resembles  in  form  a kidney  potato. 
Although  I prefer  this  fruit  to  banana  or  pineapple,  I find 
it  is  not  generally  so  highly  esteemed,  being  considered 
too  rich  and  cloying  ; moreover,  I was  t old  it  is  extreme- 
ly unwholesome  ; this  I found  to  be  an  absurd  prejudice 
(as  I have  often  eaten  from  six  to  twelve  at  a time  with- 
out any  unpleasant  consequences.)  The  belief  in  its 
hurtful  qualities,  probable  owes  its  origin  to  the  fact  that 
the  hogs,  which  roam  in  the  woods  and  eat  the  produce 
of  every  other  fructiferous  tree,  will  not  touch  the  paw- 
paw.  Another  cause  of  the  low  estimation  in  which 
pawpaws  are  held  is  their  extreme  abundance  ; they 
grow  in  thousands  in  the  woods,  as  thick  as  nuts  in  an 
English  hazel-wood,  and  the  children  soon  get  sick  and 
tired  of  eating  them. 

It  was  extremely  painful  to  remark  the  wan  and  un- 
healthy appearance  of  all  the  settlers  on  the  banks  of  the 
Missouri,  between  the  Fort  and  St  Louis.  I must  have 
landed  twenty  times,  and  I did  not  see  a single  family 
where  the  fever  and  ague  bad  not  “ chased  the  native 

F* 


66 


REPUBLICAN  EQUALITY. 


colour  from  their  cheeks.”  In  some  instances,  both 
parents  and  a family  of  four  or  five  children,  wore 
so  haggard  and  emaciated  an  appearance,  that  I could 
hardly  believe  they  would  outlive  another  season  ; and 
their  situation  excited  the  more  pity  from  the  melancholy 
contrast  which  it  presents  to  the  luxurious  and  vigor- 
ous profusion  of  vegetable  life  around,  where  the  earth 
teems  with  flowers  and  fruits,  and  bears  on  her  broad 
bosom  the  huge  trunks  and  far-spreading  foliage  of  her 
gigantic  forest  sons. 

To  return  to  the  steam-boat  : — There  is  nothing  in 
America  that  strikes  a foreigner  so  much  as  the  real  re- 
publican equality  existing  in  the  Western  States,  which 
border  on  the  wilderness ; while  that  of  the  Eastern 
States  is  being  daily  infringed  on  and  modified.  It  is  a cor- 
roborative proof  (although  superfluous  to  any  reflecting 
mind)  of  the  difficulty  of  continuing  such  equality  in 
civilized  life  ; it  contravenes  that  advancement  and 
exaltation  of  superior  power,  or  intellect,  which  Nature 
has  for  centuries  proved  to  be  a part  of  her  system. 
As  regards  society,  the  distinctions  of  rank  and  station 
are  now  as  much  observed  in  Philadelphia  and  Boston, 
as  they  are  in  London  ; indeed,  I am  inclined  to  believe 
they  are  more  so,  only  with  this  difference,  that  being,  as 
it  were,  illegal  and  unsanctioned  by  public  opinion,  they 
are  adhered  to  with  secret  pertinacity,  and  owe  their 
origin  and  strength  principally  to  wealth  ; but  in  ihe  Far 
West,  where  society  is  in  its  infancy,  where  all  are  en- 
gaged in  making  money  by  bringing  into  cultivation  waste 
lands,  or  raising  minerals, — where  men  of  leisure  are 
unknown,  and  the  arm  of  law  is  feeble  in  protecting  life 
and  property, — where  the  lone  of  manners,  conversation, 
and  accomplishment,  is  necessarily  much  lower  than  in 
stales  and  cities  longer  established, — here  it  is  that  true 
republican  equality  exists,  and  here  only  can  it  exist. — 
This  may  be  illustrated  by  the  narration  of  simple  and 
apparently  trifling  facts  : for  instance,  I have  seen  the 
clerk  of  a steam-boat,  and  a grocer  in  a small  village  on 
the  Missouri,  sit  down  to  take  grog  or  play  at  cards  with 
a member  of  congress  and  an  officer  in  the  army; 
laughing  together,  swearing  together,  and  the  names  of 


Frequency  of  duels. 


6? 


Bill,  Dick,  and  Harry,  passing  familiarly  between 
them  ! 

I confess  I was  much  astonished  at  the  gambling  on 
board  ; the  parties  were  French  traders  and  others  en*^ 
gaged  in  different  brandies  of  business  up  the  Missouri. 
I remember  seeing  600  dollars  staked  on  a single  card  ! 

When  talking  of  the  officers  of  the  United  States 
army,  I would  not  be  misunderstood  ; I have  become 
acquainted  with  a great  many  on  the  outposts  both  of  the 
Missouri  and  Mississippi ; I have  been  invariably  treated 
with  the  greatest  attention  and  hospitality,  and  many  of 
them  are  gentlemen  who,  in  manners  and  accomplish- 
ments, would  do  credit  to  the  service  of  any  country  ; 
but  it  would  argue  a want  of  truth  and  candour  were  I 
not  to  add,  that  some  of  them  have  been  found,  during 
my  stay  in  the  West,  in  predicaments  very  unbecoming 
any  officer,  and  that  drunkenness  and  gambling  are  but 
too  often  the  results  of  their  habits  of  intimacy  with 
some  of  the  settlers  in  the  West,  who  are  not  by  birth, 
education,  or  manners,  fitted  to  associate  with  gentlemen. 

Another  fact  connected  with  the  American  army  and 
navy,  shows  how  repugnant  are  the  notions  of  repub- 
licanism to  all  kinds  of  discipline.  I allude  to  the  fre- 
quency of  duels  in  both  these  branches  of  the  service. 
I never  heard  any  sensible  man  doubt  or  impugn  the 
bravery  of  the  Americans;  but  the  number  of  quarrels 
and  duels  among  officers,  as  well  as  among  senators, 
judges,  and  the  other  higher  orders  of  the  community, 
is  the  poorest  and  most  culpable  mode  of  evincing  their 
courage,  and  argues  a want  of  discipline  both  in  their 
social  and  military  relations  which  is  highly  reprehen- 
sible. 

It  is  well  known,  and  has  been  confessed  to  me  by 
many  of  their  most  intelligent  officers,  that  the  army, 
which  is  small,  is  much  spoiled  and  disorganized  by  the 
spirit  of  “equality,”  and  so-called  independence,  pre- 
valent among  the  common  soldiers;  while  the  higher 
departments  are  too  often  brought  within  the  sphere  of 
political  intrigues.  In  regard  to  the  former,  I must  say, 
that  I have  seen  more  cases  of  drunkenness  than  ever  I 
saw  among  any  troops  in  the  world,  and  the  mistaken 


(58  CATHOLIC  CHURCH  AT  ST.  LOUIS. 

humanity  or  pride  that  has  forbidden  corporel  punish- 
ment, has  not  apparently  substituted  any  efficient  method 
of  maintaining  discipline.  In  fact,  the  American  pea- 
sant, though  a brave  and  hardy  man,  and  expert  in  the 
use  of  the  rifle  and  musket,  is  naturally  the  worst  soldier 
in  the  world,  as  regards  obedience  and  discipline.  He 
has  been  brought  up  to  believe  himself  equal  to  the  offi- 
cers who  command  him,  and  never  forgets  that  when  his 
three  years  of  enlistment  are  over,  he  will  again  be  their 
equal. 

The  most  quiet  orderly  soldiers  now  in  the  American 
army,  are  the  Irish,  Scotch,  and  German  emigrants,  who 
are  in  considerable  numbers,  and  generally  remain  longer 
than  the  above  mentioned  term.  However,  it  is  a well- 
known  fact,  and  one  which  speaks  volumes,  that  nearly 
one  quarter  of  the  army  desert  every  year.*  In  military 
appointments,  commissions,  and  promotions,  in  the 
United  States  army,  favour  has,  at  least,  as  much  advan- 
tage over  merit  as  in  England  ; the  only  difference  being, 
that  in  the  former,  political  interest  and  election  intrigues 
are  the  chief  moving  powers,  and  are  not,  as  in  the 
latter,  mingled  with  aristocratic  influence. 

We  arrived  again  at  St.  Louis  without  accident  on  the 
12t.h  (Sunday.)  I went  to  see  the  Catholic  church, 
which  is  the  boast  of  that  part  of  the  country.  The 
portico  is  good,  and  the  exterior  of  the  building  is  better 
than  most  of  the  specimens  of  Greek  architecture  in  this 
country ; but  it  by  no  means  deserves  the  praises  be- 
stowed upon  it,  being  very  faulty  both  in  design  and  pro- 
portion. In  regard  to  the  latter  especially,  the  spire  is 
a great  deal  too  large  for  the  tower  supporting  it.  The 
interior  is  better  proportioned,  and  has  altogether  a pleas- 
ing effect:  the  columns,  cornices,  pilasters,  transparencies, 
&c.,  together  with  two  or  three  pictures,  were  painted  by  a 
French  artist.  I was  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  him  as  my 
cicerone  through  the  church,  after  the  termination  of  the 
service.  He  was  a beautifully  embodied  personification  of 
Parisian  art — a very  good-looking  fellow,  with  a pink 

* This  was  correct  when  it  was  written,  in  1835.  I am  not  aware 
whether  any  important  alterations  have  been  effected  since  that  date. 


FRENCH  ARTIST. 


69 


and  white  complexion,  well  arranged  hair,  and  neatly 
trimmed  whiskers  ; having  a very  complacent  opinion  of 
his  own  abilities,  and  a shrug  of  the  shoulders  for  some 
of  the  peculiarities  of  men  and  manners  in  the  valley  of 
the  Mississippi. 

His  object  in  painting  the  interior  decorations  appears 
to  have  been,  not  to  “ rival  all  but  Raphael’s  name  be- 
lowbut  to  put  on  a given  number  of  yards  of  paint, 
and  transfer  a given  number  of  dollars  to  his  own  pocket, 
in  a given  number  of  hours.  He.  accordingly,  completed 
the  whole  of  his  operations  within  eight  months,  as  he 
boasted  to  me  ! Now,  the  church  is  very  large  ; every 
window  is  covered  by  a large  transparency  painted  by 
him  ; and  besides  the  half-dozen  sacred  pictures,  there  is 
a great  profusion  of  painting  in  every  part  of  the  building. 
I have  no  doubt  that,  if  Michael  Angelo,  or  any  of  his 
distinguished  pupils,  had  engaged  in  the  same  work,  it 
would  have  cost  more  years  of  labour  than  it  cost  months 
to  our  Parisian  knight  of  the  easel ; indeed,  I could 
scarcely  keep  my  risible  muscles  in  due  subjection,  while 
he  explained  to  me  that  he  had  not  worked  and  plodded 
at  it  with  a small  pencil,  as  some  painters  do  ; but  that 
he  had  taken  a good  large  brush,  and  laid  on  the  colour 
rapidly,  broadly,  and  boldly.  Here  he  waved  his  right 
hand  to  and  fro,  like  a fellow  painting  a door  or  a railing  : 
“ Comine  ga — click — click — poof — poof — poof.”  I was 
really  vexed  at  the  careless  folly  and  vanity  which  thus 
marred  the  performances  of  a man  who  possesses  con- 
siderable talent ; is  an  excellent  draughtsman  ; and  who 
might,  by  applying  ordinary  care  and  industry,  have  done 
more  justice  to  himself  and  to  the  subjects  wdiich  he  was 
called  upon  to  illustrate. 

I found  St.  Louis  an  extremely  dull  town,  and  began 
to  believe  in  the  reports  which  had  reached  me  in  de- 
scending the  Ohio,  that  it  contained  less  gayety  and  hos- 
pitality than  any  place  of  the  same  size  in  the  United 
Slates.  The  bqarding-houses  and  taverns  are  very  in- 
ferior in  their  accommodations,  especially  the  former. 
V and  I were  put  into  a garret,  where  we  had  diffi- 

culty in  procuring  two  chairs  and  a table.  The  provisions 
were  as  scant  and  small  as  the  furniture  ; and  I looked 


70 


THE  ARSENAL. 


forward  with  no  little  satisfaction  to  a tour  which  I pro- 
posed to  make  up  the  Mississippi. 

On  the  following  day  I went  out  to  see  Jefferson  Bar- 
racks, and  to  spend  the  day  with  Lieutenant  C , 

from  whom  I had  before  received  so  much  kindness  at 
Fort  Leavenworth.  These  barracks  are  agreeably  and 
beautifully  situated  on  the  western  bank  of  the  river,  of 
which  they  command  a noble  prospect ; they  are  about 
ten  miles  below  St.  Louis  : there  is  nothing  remarkable 
in  their  construction  or  arrangement.  The  only  thing  ex- 
traordinary that  I observed  was,  that  the  band  was  better 
than  any  I had  ever  heard  in  any  military  post;  it  was 
composed  chiefly,  if  not  altogether,  of  foreigners,  Ger- 
man and  others. 

Half  way  between  St.  Louis  and  these  barracks  is  the 
old  French  village,  called  “ Vin  des  Poches,”  for  what 
reason  I never  could  learn,  although  there  are  half-a- 
dozen  etymological  fables  regarding  it : its  proper  name 
is  Carondelet,  but  few  of  the  inhabitants  would  know  it 
by  that  appellation.  It  is  a quaint  and  rather  pretty  ham- 
let, commanding  at  one  point  a most  beautiful  view  of 
the  river  and  its  wooded  banks  and  islands. 

Half  way  between  this  place  and  St.  Louis  is  the 
arsenal,  which  is  not  yet  completed',  but  appears  to  be 
one  of  the  best  and  most  solid  buildings  in  the  western 
country.  I was  invited  to  dine  with  the  officer  com- 
manding it,  a gentlemanly  agreeable  man,  and  was 
pleased  to  find  in  his  wife  a lady  related  to,  and  acquaint- 
ed with,  some  of  my  friends  in  Virginia.  This  house  I 
found  to  be  the  most  comfortable  in  its  arrangements  in 
every  branch,  from  the  drawing-room  to  the  kitchen, 
that  I had  visited  for  many  months  ; and  I must  not  for- 
get to  mention  a certain  plum-pudding,  which  would  have 
done  the  highest  credit  to  the  artiste  of  the  London  Ta- 
vern, or  the  Lord  Mayor’s  cook.  Mrs.  S played  and 

sang  with  much  taste,  and  I cannot  express  how  delighted 
I was  again  to  enjoy  the  soft  music  of  Germany  and  the 
sweet  south,  after  being  so  long  condemned  to  the  rough 
grunts  and  yells  of  the  Pawnees. 

I returned  to  St.  Louis  after  spending  a very  pleasant 
evening,  and  regretted  much  that  my  proposed  journey 


EMBARK  ON  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


71 


prevented  my  accepting  the  kind  invitation  to  protract 

my  stay,  which  was  given  me  by  Captain  S . The 

following  evening  I was  fortunate  enough  again  to  enjoy 
some  delightful  music  in  the  house  of  Mr.  P , a Ger- 

man resident  in  St.  Louis.  The  family  were  just  about 
to  remove  to  some  of  the  eastern  cities,  in  order  to  com- 
plete Miss  P ’s  studies,  and  to  afford  a fair  field  in 

which  to  display  her  musical  abilities.  The  piano  was, 
unhappily,  very  old  and  out  of  tune  ; but,  in  spite  of  this 
disadvantage,  it  was  easy  to  perceive  that  this  young 
lady,  who  was  only  sixteen  years  of  age,  possessed  much 
taste,  feeling,  and  a beautiful  touch.  I had  no  doubt  of 
her  success  in  the  musical  world. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Embark  on  the  Mississippi. — Droll  Rencontre. — Subjection  of  Indian 
Tribes. — Keokuk. — Atrocious  Exploit. — Passing  the  Rapids. — Fort 
des  Moines. — Frequent  Desertions  from  this  Post. — River  Scenery. 
— Fort  Armstrong. — Fossil  Remains. — Galena. — Lead  Mines. — The 
Miners:  their  dissolute  Life. — Subscription  by  the  Irish  Liberty- 
boys  — Lynch  Law — its  Origin. — Rate  of  Wages  among  the  Miners. 
— Price  of  Provisions. — Hospitable  Reception  at  Prairie  du  Chien. — 
Hunting  Expedition  to  Turkey  River. — Horrible  Tragedy. 

Having  now  arranged  my  plans  for  visiting  the  lead 
mines,  and  other  districts  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
Upper  Mississippi,  1 embarked  on  board  the  Heroine, 

and  bade  adieu  to  my  friend  and  companion  V , with 

whom  I had  now  passed  so  long  a season  in  constant  in- 
timacy. I left  him  with  sincere  regret,  having  found  him 
invariably  good-tempered,  agreeable,  and  intelligent  in 
conversation,  and  possessed  of  a most  amiable  and  social 
disposition.  However,  with  the  hope  of  meeting  again 
soon  at  Washington,  or  elsewhere,  we  parted,  and  1 found 
myself  once  more  on  the  broad  bosom  of  the  Father  of 
Waters;  his  banks  were  now  clothed  in  all  the  rich  va- 
riety of  autumn  beauty  ; the  weather  was  mild,  the  vines 
and  creepers  of  every  hue  turned  gracefully  round  the 
gigantic  limbs  of  the  cotton-wood  tree;  while  the  in- 


12 


KEOKUK. 


numerable  islands,  with  their  verdant  growth  of  willow, 
rendered  the  scene  delightfully  varied  and  beautiful. 

There  were  few  passengers  : ] was  fortunate  enough, 
however,  to  find  in  one  of  them  a gentleman  who  has 
been  many  years  in  the  United  States  Army,  and  who 
related  to  me  some  interesting  passages  in  the  last  war, 
as  well  as  a singularly  droll  rencontre  that  he  had  had 
with  a relative  of  mine  (who  has  been  many  years  dead) 
in  New  York,  in  which  my  informant  had  defeated  my 
relative  in  a great  trial  of  carving  skill  at  dinner:  one 
was  to  attack  a goose,  the  other  a turkey,  and  the  narra- 
tor had  gained  the  day  by  a drumstick,  or  by  half  a mi- 
nute, I forget  which  ! 

After  passing  Alton,  a prettily  situated  and  rising  town 
on  the  Illinois  bank,  the  evening  closed  in  upon  us;  the 
following  day  we  passed  through  scenery  strongly  re- 
sembling that  which  I had  already  seen.  At  length,  we 
reached  the  foot  of  the  lower  rapids,  at  a place  called 
Keokuk,  after  an  Indian  chief*  of  that  name,  who  was 
well  known  in  the  war  of  18B2,  in  which  the  Siouxes 
and  Foxes,  under  Black  Hawk,f  were  finally  subjected. 
They  were  removed  from  the  eastern  to  the  western  side 
of  the  Mississippi  : they  are  now  completely  broken  up, 
as  regards  the  number  of  their  warriors,  and  are,  more- 
over, much  degraded  by  intercourse  with  the  whites, 
and  the  use  of  whiskey.  But  they  were  once  a power- 
ful and  warlike  tribe,  and  maintained  a protracted  conflict 
with  the  great  Sioux  nation,  which  is  now  also  divided; 
one  portion  having  remained  on  the  Mississippi,  and  the 


* Or,  Ke-un-ne-kak,  i.  e.  the  foremost  man  in  Kickapoo. 
t Black  Hawk  is  called,  in  his  own  language,  (the  Saki,)  Muc-a-ta- 
mic,  o-ka-kaik  ; he  is  now  (1835)  a decrepit  and  feeble-looking  old 
chief  ; nor  do  I believe  that  ever  he  was  a great  warrior,  having  been  a 
tool  in  the  hands  of  W&-p£-kisak,  or,  “the  White  Cloud,”  and  other 
Indians  more  cunning  and  able  than  himself  His  son,  Na  seus-kuk, 
(Whirling  Thunder,)  is  a fine  young  chief.  This  last,  after  the  defeat 
of  his  tribe,  in  1832,  was,  with  his  father,  taken  prisoner,  and  paraded 
through  the  Atlantic  cities.  He  was  present  one  evening  at  a party, 
where  a young  lady  sang  a ballad  with  much  taste  and  pathos  : IXaseus- 
kuk,  who  was  standing  at  a distance,  listened  with  profound  attention  ; 
and,  at  the  close  of  the  song,  he  took  an  eagle’s  feather  from  his  head- 
dress, and  giving  it  to  a bystander,  siid,  “ Take  that  to  your  mocking- 
bird squaw!” 


ATROCIOUS  EXPLOIT. 


73 


other  having  settled  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Mis- 
souri. 

This  village  of  Keokuk  is  the  lowest  and  most  black- 
guard place  that  1 have  yet  visited  : its  population  is 
composed  chiefly  of  the  watermen  who  assist  in  loading 
and  unloading  the  keel-boats,  and  in  towing  them  up 
when  the  rapids  are  too  strong  for  the  steam-engines. 
They  are  a coarse  and  ferocious  caricature  of  the  Lon- 
don bargemen,  and  their  chief  occupation  seems  to  con- 
sist in  drinking,  fighting,  and  gambling.  One  fellow,  who 
was  half  drunk,  (or,  in  western  language,  “corned,”)  was 
relating  with  great  satisfaction  how  he  had  hid  himself  in 
a wood  that  skirted  the  road,  and  (in  time  of  peace)  had 
shot  an  unsuspecting  and  inoffensive  Indian,  who  was 
passing  with  a wild  turkey  over  his  shoulder : he  con- 
cluded by  saying,  that  he  had  thrown  the  body  into  a 
thicket,  and  had  taken  the  bird  home  for  his  own  dinner* 
He  seemed  quite  proud  of  this  exploit,  and  said  that  he 
would  as  soon  shoot  an  Indian  as  a fox  or  an  ottec.  I 
thought  he  was  only  making  an  idle  boast;  but  some  of 
the  bystanders  assured  me  it  was  a wrell-known  fact,  and 
yet  he  had  never  been  either  tried  or  punished.  This 
murderer  is  called  a Christian,  and  his  victim  a heathen  ! 
It  must,  however,  be  remembered,  that  the  feelings  of 
the  border  settlers  in  the  west,  were  frequently  exaspe- 
rated by  the  robberies,  cruelties,  and  outrages  of  neigh- 
bouring Indians ; their  childhood  was  terrified  by  tales 
of  the  scalping  knife,  sometimes  but  too  well  founded, 
and  they  have  thus  been  brought  to  consider  the  Indian 
rather  as  a wild  beast  than  as  a fellow-creature.* 

Here  we  were  obliged  to  lighten  the  steam-boat,  and 
to  put  three-fourths  of  her  cargo  into  a keel-boat  (a  kind 
of  flat-bottomed  barge)  in  order  to  enable  her  to  pass 
over  the  rapids : these  were,  however,  fortunately  not 
very  low,  and  we  traversed  them  without  difficulty  or 
accident ; indeed  they  wTere  not  so  rapid  as  the  ordinary 


* In  all  the  earliest  accounts  of  the  landing  of  white  men  in  North 
America,  whether  French  or  Spanish,  the  natives  are  described  as  hav- 
ing been  peaceable,  and  even  kind  to  them,  and  it  was  not  until  they 
had  been  some  time  settled  that  any  hostilities  were  commenced  against 
them  : that  they  were  unprovoked  I much  doubt. 

Vol.  II.— G 


14 


FORT  DES  MOINES. 


stream  of  the  Missouri  about  Fort  Leavenworth,  but  they 
are  at  times  very  dangerous,  the  rocks  being  sharp  and 
rugged  ; the  boat  on  board  of  which  I sailed,  had  knocked 
a large  hole  in  her  keel  during  her  last  passage  over  them. 

The  rapids  are  about  fourteen  miles  long,  and  at  the 
top  of  them  is  a military  post  or  cantonment,  called  Fort 
des  Moines.  This  site  appears  to  me  to  have  been 
chosen  with  singularly  bad  judgment ; it  is  low,  un- 
healthy, and  quite  unimportant  in  a military  point  of 
view  : moreover,  if  it  had  been  placed  at  the  lower,  in- 
stead of  the  upper  end  of  the  rapids,  an  immense  and 
useless  expense  would  have  been  spared  to  the  govern- 
ment, inasmuch  as  the  freightage  of  every  article  con- 
veyed thither  is  now  doubled.  The  freight  on  board  the 
steamer,  from  which  I made  these  observations,  was 
twenty-five  cents  per  hundred  weight  from  St.  Louis  to 
Keokuk,  being  one  hundred  arid  sevenly  miles,  and  from 
St.  Louis  to  the  Fort,  being  only  fourteen  miles  farther, 
it  was  fifty  cents. 

I landed  at  Fort  des  Moines  only  for  a few  minutes, 
and  had  but  just  time  to  remark  the  pale  and  sickly 
countenances  of  such  soldiers  as  were  loitering  about  the 
beach  ; indeed,  I was  told  by  a young  man  who  was 
sutler  at  this  post,  that  when  he  had  left  it  a few  weeks 
before,  there  was  only  one  officer  on  duty  out  of  seven 
or  eight,  who  were  stationed  there.  The  number  of 
desertions  from  this  post  was  said  to  be  greater  than 
from  any  other  in  the  United  States.  The  reason  is  pro- 
bably this  : the  dragoons  who  are  posted  there  and  at 
Fort  Leavenworth,  were  formed  out  of  a corps,  called, 
during  the  last  Indian  war,  “ The  Rangers  they  have 
been  recruited  chiefly  in  the  Eastern  Slates,  where  young 
men  of  some  property  and  enterprise  were  induced  to 
join,  by  the  flattering  picture  drawn  of  the  service,  and 
by  the  advantageous  opportunity  promised  of  seeing  the 
“Far  West.”  They  were  taught  to  expect  an  easy  life 
in  a country  abounding  with  game,  and  that  the  only 
hardships  to  which  they  would  be  exposed,  would  be  in 
the  exciting  novelty  of  a yearly  tour  or  circuit  made 
during  the  spring  and  summer,  among  the  wild  tribes  on 
the  Missouri,  Arkansas,  Platte,  &c. ; but  on  arriving  at 


RIVER  SCENERY. 


75 


their  respective  stations,  they  found  a very  different  state 
of  things  : they  were  obliged  to  build  their  own  barracks, 
store-rooms,  stables,  &c. ; to  haul  and  cut  wood,  and  to 
perform  a hundred  other  menial  or  mechanical  offices,  so 
repugnant  to  the  prejudices  of  an  American.  If  we  take 
into  consideration  the  facilities  of  escape  in  a steam-boat, 
by  which  a deserter  may  place  himself  in  a few  days  in 
the  recesses  of  Canada,  Texas,  or  the  mines,  and  at  the 
same  lime  bear  in  mind  the  feebleness  with  which  the 
American  military  laws  and  customs  follow  or  punish 
deserters,  we  shall  only  wonder  that  the  ranks  can  be 
kept  as  full  as  they  are.  The  officers  of  the  army  know, 
feel,  and  regret  this  ; but  they  dare  not  utter  their  senti- 
ments, and  wholesome  discipline  is  made  to  give  place 
to  the  pride  and  prejudice  of  the  “ sovereign  people,” 
from  whose  fickle  breath  all  power  and  distinction  must 

morning  after  I left  Des  Moines  dawned  in  all 
the  glory  of  a western  autumn.  I was  on  deck  before 
daybreak,  and  saw  the  last  faint  glimmering  stars  “ hide 
their  diminished  heads,”  as  the  great  bridegroom  came 
forth  from  his  eastern  chamber  and  prepared  to  run  his 
giant  course.  The  river  was  studded  with  a thousand 
islands,  and  the  dank  gray  mist  rising  irregularly  from 
its  bosom,  “ hung  in  folds  of  wavy  silver  round”  their 
varied  and  fantastic  forms,  by  turns  revealing  and  par- 
tially concealing  the  beauty  of  the  woods  and  hills,  and 
gradually  creeping  in  graceful  wreaths  up  the  rocks  and 
gigantic  bluffs,  which  confine  and  control  the  mighty 
mass  of  waters. 

But  even  the  beauties  of  this  scene  were  eclipsed  by 
the  richer  glories  of  the  evening  of  the  same  day.  We 
had  reached  a district  where  the  river  flowed  in  one  vast 
body  unbroken  by  islands  ; the  banks  were  lower,  and 
clothed  in  all  the  majesty  of  the  forest,  which  rose,  like 
Milton’s  “ verdurous  wall,”  immediately  from  the  margin 
of  the  water,  wherein  the  tall  stems  of  the  cotton  trees 
showed  like  silver  columns.  Autumn  was  here  decked 
in  all  its  glory,  and  in  every  variety  of  hue  ; the  deep  and 
solemn  foliage  of  the  nobler  trees  was  relieved  by  the 
brilliant  colours  of  the  scarlet  creeping- vines  which  were 


proceed 

The 


76 


FORT  AMSTERDAM. 


twined  round  iheir  mighty  limbs,  and  hung  in  festoons 
forming  natural  bowers,  wherein  poets  might  dream,  or 
dryads  repose.  Over  all  this  enchanting  scene,  and  over 
the  wide  expanse  of  water,  the  setting  sun  had  cast  his 
rosy  mantle,  and  bathed  it  in  a flood  of  crimson  light. 

1 sat  and  gazed  on  this  enchanting  prospect  with  such 
delight,  that  consciousness  was  for  a lime  lost  in  a waking 
dream  ; and  when  it  again  returned,  it  was  only  to  enjoy 
a new  feast  of  beauty ; for  the  short  twilight  of  the  west 
had  vanished,  the  massive  shades  of  the  forest  had 
deepened  almost  to  blackness,  while  the  broad  and  tran- 
quil bosom  of  the  river  reflected  the  pale  and  trembling 
beams  of  a crescent  moon.  How  lovely,  yet  how  dif- 
ferent, a scene  from  that  which  preceded  it  ! I have 
marked  such  a change  on  the  face  of  maiden  beauty, 
when  conversing  with  the  object  of  her  love  (which  is 
her  sunshine);  her  soul  seems  seated  in  her  eyes,  and 
the  “ pure  and  eloquent  blood”  coursing  in  its  delicate 
channels,  clothes  the  blushing  cheek,  the  parted  lip,  even 
the  white  bFow,  and  the  yet  whiter  neck,  with  a glowing 
and  rosy  hue  ; but  let  the  favoured  whisperer  depart,  and 
the  words  of  some  indifferent  acquaintance  fall  upon  her 
ear,  the  radiance,  the  animation,  the  rosy  glow,  all  are 
fled,  and  the  fair  listener  stands  in  the  cold  repose  of 
moonlight  beauty. 

But  I am  digressing,  which  is  generally  the  pleasantest 
part  of  a journey,  not  always  of  a narrative. 

The  next  place  worthy  of  notice  wras  Fort  Armstrong 
this  is  an  older  post  than  Des  Moines  ; and  as  it  stands 
boldly  out  on  a high  point  of  Rock  Island,  it  is  a more 
pleasing  object  to  the  eye  of  a traveller.  In  this  neigh- 
bourhood many  fine  agates  and  geodes  are  picked  up 
on  the  river  shore,  and  in  some  of  the  limestone  caves 
formed  in  the  bluffs,  are  stalactites  and  other  specimens 
interesting  to  the  geologist.  I saw  here  also  a tooth  taken 
from  the  head  of  the  great  American  elephant,  an  animal 
which  once  existed  in  this  county,  and  whose  remains 
are  sometimes  mistaken  for  those  of  the  mammoth,  from 
which  it  differed  considerably  in  size,  shape,  and  in  the 
quality  of  its  food.  It  is  said  that  the  skeleton  of  this 
animal  is  tolerably  complete  in  the  bed  of  a streamlet, 


FEVER  RIVER. 


77 


running  through  the  territory  of  the  Sauks  and  Foxes, 
and  many  attempts  have  been  made  to  purchase,  and  re- 
move it ; but  these  Indians  consider  it  “ medicine,”  and 
will  not  part  with  it. 

Leaving  Fort  Armstrong,  the  Heroine  made  her  steam- 
ing way  on  toward  Galena.  The  river  continued  mag- 
nificently broad  ; the  sloping  wood-clad  hills,  and  the 
bold  and  rugged  bluffs,  presented  a constant  change  of 
beauty. 

I was  more  comfortable  in  this  boat  than  I had  ever 
been  in  a steamer  before.  The  captain,  steward,  and 
erevv,  were  very  civil  and  obliging;  the  table  cleanly 
and  well-served.  But  this  was  not  all  ; may  I venture 
to  write  in  what  my  comfort  consisted? — Yes,  I must 
sacrifice  gallantry  to  candour,  and  own  at  once  that  there 
wrere  no  ladies  on  board  ! and  thus  I was  enabled,  by 
permission  of  the  captain,  to  have  the  ladies’  cabin  to 
myself  during  the  whole  journey,  and  to  read,  write, 
and  occupy  myself  in  it  as  I pleased. 

In  order  to  show  the  wages  that  a steady  well-behaved 
man  can  obtain,  I may  here  mention  that  the  steward 
on  board  this  boat  received  forty  dollars  (or  ten  pounds) 
a month,  besides  his  board,  and  such  perquisites  or  do- 
nations as  were  incident  to  his  situation. 

Having  passed  the  upper  rapids  (which  are  near  Rock 
Island,  and  not  so  shallow  or  dangerous  as  those  near 
Des  Moines)  without  accident,  we  arrived  on  the  second 
day  following  at  Galena,  the  seat  of  the  great  United 
States  lead  mines.  This  towm,  which  has  risen  to  some 
importance,  and  to  a population  of  several  thousands 
during  the  last  few  years,  is  situated  on  Fever  River, 
about  five  miles  from  the  point  where  it.  falls  into  the 
Mississippi.  The  Galenians,  anxious  for  the  hedthy 
reputation  of  their  river,  have  circulated  a story  that 
“ Fever  River  ” is  an  awkward  corruption  of  the  old 
French  name  of  “ Riviere  des  Feves,”  or  Bean  River; 
but  I see  little  reason  to  credit  this  version,  especially  as 
I have  seen  “ Riv.  de  Fievre  ” on  an  old  map  of  that 
district.  However,  it  is  of  little  consequence  : the  place 
is  as  healthy  as  any  other  on  the  Mississippi  banks  ; but 


78 


LEAD  MINES1. 


its  site  is  singularly  inconvenient  and  circumscribed,  be- 
ing surrounded  on  the  north  and  west  by  high  bluffs,  so 
as  to  render  its  increase  to  anv  extent. almost  impossible  ; 
while  the  ground  on  which  it  is  built  is  so  abrupt,  that  you 
have  to  climb  a bank  steep  as  the  side  of  a house,  in 
order  to  get  from  one  street  to  another,  and,  in  rainy 
weather,  nothing  short  of  stilts  or  Greenland  boots  can 
save  a pedestrian  from  the  mud  and  filth. 

The  inhabitants  have  hitherto  cared  little  about 
paving,  improving,  or  lighting  the  streets,,  as  the  land  has 
not  been  as  yet  in  the  market ; consequently  the  pro- 
perty still  belongs  to  congress,  and  the  only  existing 
title  is  a right  of  pre-emption : a year  or  two  hence  this 
evil  will  be,  probably,  remedied.  The  veins  of  lead  in 
the  neighbourhood  are  numerous,  and  very  rich.  The 
manner  of  working  the  mines  is  the  simplest  and  the 
most  primitive  ; a bucket  and  windlass  are  the  only 
means  used  as  yet,  either  for  raising  the  mineral  or  clear- 
ing off  the  water  : but,  doubtless,  steam  will  soon  be  ap- 
plied for  these  purposes.  I have  seen  but  little  of  min- 
ing in  my  life,  but  I should  conceive  that  few  places 
offered  greater  facilities  than  are  to  be  found  in  this  dis- 
trict; and  so  small  is  the  admixture  of  alloy,  that  before 
the  process  of  smelting,  eighty  per  cent,  of  pure  lead  is 
the  average  quantity  obtained. 

The  customary  law  seems  to  be,  that  any  person  what- 
soever may  stake  off  ten  acres  of  land  as  yet  unoccupied,, 
and  is  entitled  to  all  the  mineral  that  he  can  find 
within  that  range ; and  no  other  person  can  dig  on 
his  ten  acres  ns  long  as  he  is  carrying  on  any  work 
there.  The  miners  are  the  most  wonderful  mixture 
of  humanity  that  ever  I beheld  they  are  from  all 
parts  of  the  world,  but  chiefly  from  Ireland,  Derbyshire, 
Cornwall,  and  Germany.  Besides  the  emigrants  from 
the  above  and  other  places,  there  are  fugitives  from  law 
and  justice,  from  every  part  of  the  world,  thieves,  pi- 
rates, deserters,  &c.  The  wages  are  so  high  that  they 
work  little  more  than  half  their  time,  and  spend  the  re- 
maining half  chiefly  in  drinking,  gambling,  quarrelling, 
dirking  and  pistolling  one  another.  This  picture  is  ra- 


LYNCH  LA. W. 


79 


ther  more  faithfully  descriptive  of  Dubuques  than  of  Ga- 
lena, in  which  latter  place  there  are  some  who  have 
made  money,  and  who  live  soberly  and  respectably. 

The  Irish  in  this  district  are  a very  numerous  and 
troublesome  body,  and  have  carried  with  them  all  the 
bitterness  of  their  domestic  prejudices  and  feuds,  unsoft- 
ened by  distance  and  unmellowed  by  time.  Some  of 
them  spoke  to  me  of  the  scenes  of  destruction,  blood, 
and  revolution,  which  they  hoped  yet  to  see  in  Britain, 
with  a revengeful  malice  which  inspired  me  with  pity 
and  disgust.  It  is  now  a fact  well  known,  that  here,  as 
well  as  in  many  other  parts  of  the  United  States,  a sub- 
scription was  raised  by  the  Irish,  numbering  in  its  lists 
many  Americans  also  (the  object  of  which  was  to  collect 
funds  for  an  Irish  rebellion),  under  the  name  of  “ Sub- 
scription of  the  Friends  of  Civil  and  Religious  Liberty.” 
This  plot  was  widely  extended,  and  seems  to  have  been 
nearly  ripe  for  execution,  when  it  was  thwarted  by  the 
passing  of  the  Emancipation  Bill the  bubble  then  burst, 
and  difficulties  arose  as  to  the  application  of  the  sums 
already  subscribed.  In  this  neighbourhood  about  one 
thousand  dollars  had  been  collected,  and  the  Liberty 
Boys  applied  the  greater  part  of  it  to  setting  up  in  busi- 
ness a notorious  villain,  who  had  been  one  of  a band  of 
pirates  in  the  Mexican  Sea,  and  who,  after  committing 
one  or  two  atrocious  murders  in  or  near  Galena,  moved 
off  to  Dubuques  (a  town  fifteen  miles  distant,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  Mississippi),  where  he  gat  into  partnership, 
and  having  thought  proper,  one  day,  to  murder  his  part- 
ner in  cold  blood,  was,  at  length,  hung  by  Lynch  law. 

This  term,  so  familiar  to  American  ears,  may  require 
explanation  in  Europe.  I believe  it  originated  in  one 
of  the  Southern  States,  where  a body  of  farmers,  unable 
to  bring  some  depredators  to  justice,  according  to  legal 
form,  chose  one  of  their  number,  named  Lynch,  judge  ; 
from  the  rest  they  selected  a jury,  and  from  this  self- 
constituted  court  they  issued  and  enforced  sundry  whip- 
pings, and  other  punishments.  During  the  last  few 
years  the  settlements  in  the  Mississippi  valley  have  in- 
creased so  fast,  that  the  number  of  law  courts  have  been 
found  too  few  and  dilatory  and  the  inhabitants  have,  in 


LYNCH  LAW. 


80 

many  places  assembled  together,  assumed  the  sovereign 
authority  of  the  law,  appointed  a judge  Lynch  and  a jury 
from  among  themselves,  and  have  punished,  and  fre- 
quently hanged,  those  brought  before  them.  In  the  case 
above  mentioned,  few  could  pity  the  miscreant,  or  blame 
his  executioners ; but  when  the  question  is  viewed  on 
broad  political  or  moral  principles,  it  is  impossible  to 
conceive  a more  horrible  outrage  upon  law,  justice,  and 
social  order,  than  this  kind  of  self-constituted  court,  tak- 
ing upon  itself,  in  a civilized  country,  to  decide  upon 
life  and  liberty. 

During  the  summer,  1835,  they  hanged,,  in  this  man- 
ner, five  individuals  in  one  village  on  the  Mississippi 
(Vicksburgh.)  The  ^.fellows  were  gamblers  and  dis- 
reputable vagabonds,  it  is  true  ; but  I have  not  been 
able  to  hear  that  any  crime  had  been  proved  against  them 
which  would  have  been  considered  capital  in  a criminal 
court,  when  they  were  thus  hurried  into  eternity  by  the 
excited  anger  and  passions  of  their  self-constituted 
judges.  In  the  same  outrageous  manner  they  hanged, 
openly  in  the  streets,  ten  or  a dozen  wretches  called 
steam-doctors,  who  practised  their  miserable  imposture 
and  quackery  in  the  south-west,  and  who  were  accused 
(rightfully  or  wrongfully,  I know  not)  of  being  engaged 
in  a plot  to  excite  an  insurrection  among  the  negroes. 

Such,  however,  is  the  state  of  feeling  in  the  West,  that 
I have  heard  many  sober,  wealthy,  respectable  looking 
citizens  defend  and  approve  of  Lynch  law,  as  a benefi- 
cial usage  in  the  present  state  of  the  Western  country.  If 
their  opinions  are  correct,  what  must  the  state  of  those 
districts  be  ? For  myself,  I can  conceive  no  community 
except  hordes  of  pirates,  banditti,  or  savages,  where  such 
usages  are  defensible.  If  the  protection  of  the  law  is 
distant,  either  as  regards  time  or  place,  from  any  village, 
its  inhabitants  are,  doubtless,  justifiable  in  securing  and 
confining  any  violent  trangressor  of  the  laws  affecting 
life  or  property,  and  in  using  every  proper  means  of 
bringing  him  to  just  punishment  ; but  the  hanging  him 
in  the  street  by  their  own  authority,  is  neither  more  nor 
less  than  murder;  and  if  any  town  or  village  is  so  re- 
mote as  to  render  it  extremely  difficult  to  take  the  cul- 


PRAIRIE  DU  CHIEN. 


81 


prit  before  a legal  tribunal,  a sentence  of  death  awarded 
by  them  remains  a murder : but  the  greater  share  of  the 
sin  and  disgrace  falls  upon  the  government,  which  leaves 
to  its  citizens  a heavy  and  responsible  office,  that  ought 
to  be  guarded  by  all  the  solemnities  and  securities  of 
law. 

In  spite  of  the  general  loose  and  profligate  character 
of  the  miners,  many  of  them  are  industrious  and  regular 
in  their  habits.  These  persons  amass  a competent  for- 
tune with  astonishing  rapidity  ; but  these  very  causes 
tend  to  keep  the  rate  of  wages  extremely  high,  and  the 
average  character  of  labourers  proportionably  low  ; be- 
cause a steady  workmen  becomes  in  a very  few  weeks 
proprietor  of  “ a lot,”  and  requires  that  assistance  which 
he  so  lately  afforded  to  another.  The  price  of  pro- 
visions varies  here  to  an  extent  almost  incredible,  owing 
to  the  inability  of  the  neighbouring  farmers  to  raise  them 
in  sufficient  quantity  ; consequently  the  steam-boats  from 
St.  Louis  are  loaded  with  flour  and  pork  ; and  as  long  as 
the  navigation  is  easy  and  unobstructed,  these  articles 
are  sold  at  a moderate  price  ; but  if  any  accident  occurs 
to  impede  this  supply,  they  rise  frequently  one  or  two 
hundred  per  cent.  With  such  a great  and  daily  incieas- 
ing  demand,  and  a fine  rich  country  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, the  greater  part  of  w7hich  is  for  sale  at  a dollar  and 
a quarter  (six  shillings)  an  acre,  it  is  needless  to  point 
out  the  advantages  held  out  to  industrious  emigrants. 

After  staying  a few  days  at  Galena,  I pursued  my  way 
up  the  river  ; and,  passing  Dubuques,  Cassville,  and  one 
or  two  smaller  settlements  in  the  mineral  district,  at 
Prairie  du  Chien,  an  old  Fiench  village,  immediately 
below  wdiich  is  a military  post  called  Fort  Crawfurd, — 
On  presenting  my  letters  of  introduction,  I was  received 
with  the  same  hospitality  that  I have  everywhere  ex- 
perienced from  the  officers  of  the  United  States  army. 
A plate  was  laid  for  me  at  the  commanding  officer’s  ta- 
ble ; and  another  gentleman,  in  whose  quarters  I lodged, 
actually  insisted  upon  my  occupying  his  bed,  while  he 
slept  on  a sofa  fitted  up  with  a buffalo-robe. 

The  view  from  this  cantonment  is  not  very  remark- 
able, as  its  position  is  too  low  to  command  an  extensive 


82 


HUNTING  EXPEDITION. 


prospect ; but  that  from  the  bluffs,  ranged  about  half  a 
mile  in  its  rear,  is  magnificent ; and  the  eye  can  take  in 
at  once  many  miles  of  the  course  of  the  Wisconsin,  as 
well  as  of  the  Mississippi,  the  former  river  falling  into 
the  latter  about  five  miles  below  the  fort. 

I found  that  two  or  three  of  the  officers  were  planning 
a hunting  expedition  toward  the  head  waters  of  Turkey 
River  (which  runs  from  north-west  to  south-east,  and  falls 
into  the  Mississippi  some  miles  below  Prairie  du  Chien), 
where  we  were  told  that  pheasants,  deer,  elk,  and  other 
game  were  in  the  greatest  abundance.  I requested  per- 
mission to  join  the  party,  as  my  object  was  to  see  the 
country  ; and  I could  get  no  steam-boat,  or  other  oppor- 
tunity gf  visiting  St.  Peter’s  and  the  Falls  of  St. 
Anthony. 

We  accordingly  set  out  in  a large  boat,  containing 
about  twenty  men,  a light  cart,  a pony,  plenty  of  provi- 
sions, and  a due  supply  of  ammunition.  Being  obliged 
to  ascend  the  Mississippi  about  ten  miles,  our  progress 
was  extremely  slow  ; for  the  stream  was  strong,  the 
head  wind  blowing  pretty  fresh  (accompanied  by  an  icy 
chilling  sleet) ; and  the  boat  could  only  be  propelled  by 
being  pushed  up  with  long  poles  along  the  shores  of  the 
various  islands,  where  the  current  was  the  least  formida- 
ble. However,  as  it  was  a “ party  of  pleasure,”  the  men 
were  in  the  highest  spirits,  forgot  the  wet  and  the  cold, 
and  the  boat  echoed  with  jokes  and  laughter.  A cap 
was  blown  overboard,  and  a fellow  plunged  head  over 
heels  into  the  stream  after  it ; he  went  some  feet  under 
water,  rose,  swam  in  pursuit,  recovered  the  cap,  bore  it 
in  triumph  to  land,  and  running  up  along  the  bank,  was 
taken  again  on  board.  The  island  which  we  were  here 
passing  was  the  scene,  a few  years  ago,  of  one  of  those 
horrible  tragedies  at  which  humanity  shudders,  and  which 
Cooper  has  painted  in  colours  equally  graphic  and  ter- 
rible. 

The  Sioux  and  the  Winnebagoes*  had  been  for  some 

* This  nation  is  called  among  the  Canadian  French  “ Les  Puans 
they  came  originally  from  the  borders  of  Lake  Michigan,  near  the  vil- 
lages of  the  Sakies  and  the  Outagamies  or  Foxes,  and  the  name  by 
which  they  arc  known  among  early  travellers  is  Qtchagr?s  ; according  to 


HORRIBLE  TRAGEDY. 


63 


time  at  war,  but  had  agreed  upon  a temporary  cessation 
of  hostilities*  when  a party  of  about  eight  warriors  of  the 
former  tribe  came  down  to  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  saw 
on  the  island  a Winnebago  encampment  containing  ele- 
ven persons,  all  women  and  children,  the  men  having 
gone  out  upon  a hunting  expedition  ; the  sight  of  these 
helpless  victims  aroused  the  thirst  of  the  Sioux  for  blood  ; 
and  regardless  of  the  truce,  they  plunged  into  the  river, 
swam  to  the  island,,  and  commenced  an  indiscriminate 
massacre.  One  heroic  boy  only  escaped  : he  drew  his 
little  arrow  to  the  feathers,  buried  it  deep  in  the  breast  of 
one  of  his  enemies,  then  plunging  into  the  thickets,  fled, 
not  for  safety,  but  revenge.  Swimming  the  river,  he  ran 
down  its  eastern  bank  to  Fort  Crawfurd,  where  his  dread- 
ful tale  soon  drew  to  his  side  many  of  his  own  tribe, 
who  instantly  returned  with  him  toward  the  island,  ac- 
companied by  a party  of  soldiers  and  several  officers  (of 
whom  my  informant  was  one),  who  were  ordered  to  use 
their  best  endeavours  to  overtake  and  capture  the  Sioux ; 
but  in  the  meantime,  these  latter,  aware  of  the  pursuit 
that  would  immediately  ensue,  completed  hastily  their 
murderous  work,  and  scalping  all  their  victims,  retreated 
with  their  bloody  trophies  into  the  wilds  of  their  own 
territory. 

When  the  Winnebagoes  arrived  at  the  scene  of  slaugh- 
ter, their  shouts  and  yells  were  deafening.  Women  and 
children  had  joined  them  in  great  numbers,  and  mingled 
their  shrieks  and  lamentations  with  the  revengeful  cries 
of  the  men.  At  lengt  h they  espied  the  body  of  the  Sioux, 
whom  the  brave  boy  had  pierced  with  his  arrow  ; he  was 
by  this  time  quite  dead,  but  had  contrived  to  crawl  a few 
hundred  paces  from  the  encampment,  and  thus  his  com- 
panions had,  in  the  hurry  of  their  flight,  forgotten  to  car- 
ry off  his  body.*  The  Winnebagoes  now  surrounded  it, 


some  of  whom  they  received  the  beautiful  appellation  of  Les  Puans, 
because,  when  first  visited  by  the  whites,  their  village,  on  the  edge  of 
the  marsh,  was  full  of  stale  and  stinking  fish. 

* The  Indians  never  leave  the  bodies  of  their  slain  in  the  hands  of 
the  enemy,  but  carry  them  off  at  all  risks  and  hazards.  After  some  of 
the  most  bloody  conflicts,  in  which  the  Americans  have  known  that 

[great  numbers  of  Indians  must  have  fallen,  they  have  often  traversed 
the  field  of  action  without  finding  many,  if  any,  of  their  dead. 


84 


horrible  tragedy. 


and  prepared  to  wreak  upon  it  all  the  indignities  which 
fury  and  revenge  could  suggest.  The  minister  on  whom 
the  office  devolved,  was  a handsome  young  girl  of 
eighteen,  who  was  the  nearest  relative  present  of  those 
who  had  been  massacred  : she  stept  forward  with  a 
countenance  calm  and  unmoved,  seized  the  scalping- 
knife,  divided  the  bones  of  the  breast  with  a skill  and  ra- 
pidity which  proved  that  the  work  was  neither  new  nor 
unpleasant  to  her  ; and  tearing  out  the  heart,  cut  it  into 
small  slices,  which  she  presented  warm  and  reeking  to 
the  savage  men  around  her,  who  ate  them  in  gloomy  and 
revengeful  silence  ! 

In  the  whole  history  of  the  female  sex,  from  the  fierce 
treachery  of  Sisera,  or  the  classic  legend  of  Medea,  down 
to  the  modern  dramatic  fiction  of  Helen  Macgregor,  I do 
not  remember  to  have  met  with  so  fine  a subject  for  the 
pencil  of  a Spagnoletto  or  a Guido,  as  this  young  and 
beautiful  priestess  of  Nemesis,  surrounded  by  her  mur- 
dered kindred,  offering  the  horrible  banquet  of  the  mur- 
derer’s heart,  not  to  satiate,  but  to  excite,  the  vengeful 
fury  of  the  survivors  of  her  tribe  ! Would  that  I could 
see  it  on  canvass,  as  I now  have  it  before  my  mind’s 
eye,  with  all  the  splendid  accompaniments  belonging  to 
the  scene  ! the  glorious  Mississippi  sweeping  by  ; the 
dusky  groups  bending  with  smothered  grief  and  rage 
over  the  mutilated  bodies  of  their  friends  ; the  white  men 
in  the  back-ground  looking  on  in  the  silence  of  pity  and 
horror,  and  above  all,  the  dreadful  priestess  of  the  bleed- 
ing heart ! Oh  ! it  is  too  horrible  to  think  upon  ! and  yet 
the  injury  suffered  by  these  poor  savages,  almost  gives  a 
tragic  sublimity  to  a scene,  which  under  other  circum- 
stances could  be  contemplated  only  with  loathing  and 
disgust. 


ENCAMPMENT  OF  WINNEBAGOES. 


85 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Encampment  of  Winnebagoes. — Their  Lodges — Women  of  the  Tribe. 
— Arrival  at  the  Painted  Rock. — March  into  the  Interior. — Our  Party 
reconnoitred  by  an  Indian. — Language  of  the  Winnebagoes. — A 
halfbreed  Interpreter. — Hunting  Expedition  on  Turkey  River. — 
Stratagem  of  our  Indian  Neighbours. — Bee-hunting. — A Stag  bathing. 
— Disappointment. — Search  for  Deer. — A Doe  shot. — Prairies  and 
Woods  set  on  lire  by  the  Indians. — Critical  Situation.— A Forest 
Conflagation. — Prairie  Wolves. — Return  to  the  Fort. — Fallacious 
Assertions. — Tribes  in  the  Neighbourhood  of  the  Fort. — An  Excur- 
sion.— Ascent  of  a steep  Bluff — Reception  in  a Log-hut. — Fertile 
District. — Beautiful  Woodland  Scene. 

After  passing  this  tragic  island  we  came  to  another, 
on  which  was  an  encampment  of  Winnebagoes.  As  we 
expected  to  take  in  at  this  place  a Canadian,  who  was 
going  to  hunt  in  the  West,  we  landed,  and  were  by  no 
means  sorry  to  creep  into  the  lodges  and  warm  ourselves, 
as  we  were  annoyed  both  by  cold  and  rain.  The  lodges 
of  this  tribe  are  entirely  different  from  those  of  the  Paw- 
nees, although  like  them  they  are  formed  of  skins  : they 
are  circular,  and  vary  in  size  according  to  the  wealth  or 
number  of  the  occupants  ; there  are  two  apertures  for 
the  admission  of  light  and  air  ; one,  the  door,  over  which 
in  cold  weather  a kind  of  flap,  or  curtain,  is  made  to  fall ; 
the  other,  in  the  centre  of  the  summit,  by  which  the 
smoke  escapes  from  the  fire  below.  They  have  many 
more  comforts,  such  as  domestic  utensils  for  cookery, 
&c.,  than  the  Pawnees,  or  other  wild  tribes,  owing  to 
their  proximity  to,  and  intercourse  with,  the  whites  ; but 
they  pay  dearly  for  these  in  the  fondness  which  they 
have  acquired  for  whiskey,  and  the  consequent  diminution 
of  their  numbers  and  degradation  of  their  character. 

The  women  are  prettier  (or  rather  not  so  homely)  as 
those  among  the  Pawnees  ; but,  upon  the  whole,  they 
are  less  good-looking  than  the  Menomenee  girls,  among 
whom  I have  seen  a few  with  good  features  and  most 
Vol.  II.— H 


86 


INDIAN  SCOUT. 


graceful  forms.  If  an  Indian  girl  is  beautiful,  it  is  im- 
possible to  avoid  feeling  the  greatest  interest  for  her  : 
one  remembers  the  drudgery  and  slavery  which  she  must 
undergo,  the  low  and  degrading  place  allotted  to  her  in 
the  scale  of  society  ; and  there  is  a repose  and  resigna- 
tion in  her  countenance,  which  cannot  fail  to  excite  com- 
passion and  pity,  and  these  (as  the  poet  tells  us)  prepare 
the  heart  for  the  reception  of  yet  warmer  feelings. 

In  spite  of  wind  and  sleet,  we  were  soon  obliged  to 
resume  our  slow  ascent  of  the  river,  and  in  due  course 
of  time  arrived  at  Painted  Rock,  the  place  of  our  de- 
barkation. We  pitched  our  tent  in  a low  marshy  hollow, 
which  would  be  an  admirable  situation  for  a temple  to 
the  goddess  of  fever  and  ague.  On  the  following  morn- 
ing we  commenced  our  march  into  the  interior;  the 
whole  party  (consisting  of  three  officers,  four  soldiers, 
myself,  and  servant)  was  on  foot,  and  a stout  pony  drew 
our  baggage  in  a sort  of  springless  vehicle,  resembling  a 
small  English  tax-cart.  After  a tedious  march  over  a 
high,  barren,  and  uninteresting  prairie,  for  three  days,  at 
the  rate  of  twenty  or  twenty-five  miles  a day,  we  arrived 
at  the  point  on  Turkey  river  at  which  our  grand  hunt 
wras  to  commence. 

On  the  third  day,  in  the  forenoon,  an  Indian  came  gal- 
lopping down  with  a loose  rein  toward  us.  On  a nearer 
approach  he  proved  to  be  a Winnebago,  who  had  left  his 
band  (which  was  distant  two  or  three  miles)  to  recon- 
noitre our  party.  We  soon  came  up  with  their  main 
body,  which  was  encamped  by  the  side  of  a wrooded  hill, 
and  presented  a wild  and  picturesque  appearance.  They 
had  just  struck  their  Lodges,  and  were  loading  the  horses 
to  recommence  their  march,  when  we  came  up  with 
them.  Two  or  three  of  the  chiefs,  and  the  principal  men, 
were  silting,  as  usual,  and  smoking,  while  the  women 
gathered  the  bundles  and  packs,  and  the  boys  ran  or 
gallopped  about,  catching  the  more  wild  and  refractory 
beasts  of  burthen.  The  officer  of  our  party  knew  the 
chief,  who  had  been  down  frequently  to  Fort  Crawfurd, 
and  we  accordingly  sat  down  and  smoked  the  pipe  of 
peace  and  recognition. 

The  conversation  between  white  men  and  Winneba- 


HALF-BREED  INTERPRETER. 


87 


goes  is  almost  always  carried  on  in  Saukie,  Menomenee, 
or  some  other  dialect  of  the  Chippeway,  as  their  own 
language  can  scarcely  be  acquired  or  pronounced  by  any 
but  their  own  tribe : it  is  dreadfully  harsh  and  guttural  ; 
the  lips,  tongue,  and  palate,  seem  to  have  resigned  their 
office  to  the  uvula  in  the  throat,  or  to  some  yet  more 
remote  ministers  of  sound.  In  all  the  Upper  Mississippi 
I only  heard  of  one  white  man  who  could  speak  and  un- 
derstand it  tolerably  ; but  their  best  interpreter  is  a half- 
breed  named  Pokette,  who  is  equally  popular  with  his 
white  and  red  brethren  ; the  latter  of  whom  have  granted 
him  several  fine  tracts  of  land  in  the  Wisconsin  territory, 
where  he  resides.  I am  told  that  he  keeps  thirty  or 
forty  horses,  and  has  made  a fortune  of  above  one  hum 
dred  thousand  dollars. 

I fell  in  with  him  at  Galena,  and  had  half  an  hour’s 
conversation  with  him,  only  for  the  pleasure  of  looking 
at  him  and  scanning  his  magnificent  and  Herculean 
frame.  I think  he  is  the  finest  (though  by  no  means  the 
largest)  mould  of  a man  that  ever  I saw  : he  is  about  sb(. 
feet  four  inches  in  height,  and  as  perfectly  proportioned 
as  painter  or  statuary  could  desire.  Perhaps  his  arms 
and  legs  are  too  muscular  for  perfect  beauty  of  form ; 
still,  that  is  a defect  easily  pardoned.  His  countenance 
is  open,  manly,  and  intelligent ; and  his  ruddy  brown 
complexion,  attesting  the  mingled  blood  of  two  distinct 
races,  seems  to  bid  defiance  to  cold,  heat,  or  disease. 
He  is  proverbially  good-natured,  and  is  universally  com 
sidered  the  strongest  man  in  the  Upper  Mississippi. 

He  is  said  never  to  have  struck  any  person  in  anger 
except  one  fellow,  a very  powerful  and  well-known 
boxer,  from  one  of  the  towns  on  the  river,  who  had  heard 
of  Pokette’s  strength,  and  went  to  see  him  with  the  de^ 
termination  of  thrashing  (or,  in  American  phrase,  whip- 
ping) him.  Accordingly  he  took  an  opportunity  of  giving 
a wanton  and  cruel  blow  to  a favourite  dog  belonging  to 
Pokette  ; and  on  the  latter  remonstrating  with  him  on  his 
conduct,  he  attempted  to  treat  the  master  as  he  had  treat-? 
ed  the  dog.  On  offering  this  insolent  outrage,  he  re- 
ceived a blow  from  the  hand  of  Pokette  which  broke  the 


88 


HUNTING  EXPEDITION. 


bridge  of  his  nose,  closed  up  both  his  eyes,  and  broke  or 
bruised  some  of  the  bones  of  the  forehead  so  severely  as 
to  leave  his  recovery  doubtful  for  several  weeks. 

To  return  to  the  Winnebago  encampment.  As  the 
Indians  were  also  upon  a hunting  expedition  on  Turkey 
river,  we  all  started  together,  and  went  a few  miles  in 
the  same  direction  ; but  we  soon  divided,  and  they  pro- 
ceeded to  the  south-west,  while  our  party  kept  a north- 
west course  ; consequently,  on  reaching  the  river,  they 
were  camped  about  six  or  eight  miles  below  us.  I little 
thought  that  these  rascals  would  sc  pertinaciously  and 
successfully  endeavour  to  spoil  our  sport ; but  I suppose 
they  considered  us  intruders,  and  determined  to  punish  us 
accordingly.  We  had,  in  the  mean  time,  killed  nothing 
but  a few  pheasants  and  grouse  ; but  our  object  in  com- 
ing to  Turkey  river  was  to  find  deer,  elks,  and  bears,  all 
of  which  we  had  been  taught  to  expect  in  abundance. 
We  pitched  our  camp  in  a well-wooded  valley  (called 
here  a “ bottom  ”)  formed  by  the  river  ; our  wigwam 
was  constructed,  after  the  Menomenee  fashion,  of  mats 
made  from  a kind  of  reed,  and  bound  firmly  in  a semi- 
circular form  to  a frame-work  of  willow,  or  other  elastic 
wood,  fastened  by  strings  formed  from  the  bark  of  the 
elm.  The  soldiers  cut  an  abundance  of  fire-wood,  and 
we  were  well  provided  with  flour,  biscuit,  coffee,  and 
pork  ; so  that  we  had  little  to  fear  from  cold  or  hunger. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  we  all  set  off  in  different  di- 
rections in  search  of  game.  Some  of  the  party  content- 
ed themselves  with  shooting  ducks  and  pheasants  ; I and 
two  or  three  others  went  in  pursuit  of  the  quadruped 
game.  I confess  I expected  to  kill  one  or  two  elk,  per- 
haps a bear,  and  common  deer  ad  libitum;  however, 
after  a walk  of  six  or  eight  hours,  during  which  I forded 
the  river  twice,  and  went  over  many  miles  of  ground,  I 
returned  without  having  seen  a single  deer.  This  sur- 
prised me  the  more,  as  I saw  numberless  beds  and  paths 
made  by  them,  but  no  track  of  either  elk  or  bear.  My 
brother  sportsmen  were  equally  unfortunate,  and  no  ve- 
nison graced  our  board.  I had,  however,  heard  a great 
many  shots,  some  of  which  were  fired  before  daylight. 


A STAG  BATHING. 


89 


and  we  soon  perceived  that  our  Indian  neighbours  had 
laid  a plan  to  drive  all  the  deer  from  the  vicinity  of  our 
encampment. 

We  continued  to  while  away  some  hours  very  agree- 
ably in  bee-hunting,  at  which  sport  two  or  three  of  the 
soldiers  were  very  expert.  Of  the  bee-trees  which  we 
cut  down,  one  was  very  rich  in  honey  ; the  flavour  was 
delicious,  and  I ate  it  in  quantities  which  would  have 
nauseated  me  had  it  been  made  from  garden  plants,  in- 
stead of  being  collected  from  the  sweet  wild  flowers  of 
the  prairie.  Our  life  was  most  luxurious  in  respect  of 
bed  and  board,  for  we  had  plenty  of  provisions,  besides 
the  pheasants,  grouse,  &c.,  that  we  shot ; and  at  night  the 
soldiers  made  such  a bonfire  of  heavy  logs  as  to  defy  the 
annoyances  of  wet  and  cold. 

The  second  day’s  sport  was  as  fruitless  as  the  first ; 
but  the  same  firing  continued  all  around  us,  for  which 
we  vented  many  maledictions  on  our  Indian  tormentors. 
On  the  third  day  I contented  myself  with  sauntering 
along  the  bank  of  the  river  and  shooting  a few  pheasants  : 
evening  was  closing  in,  the  weather  was  oppressively 
warm,  and  I lay  down  at  the  foot  of  a great  tree  to  rest 
and  cool  myself  by  the  breath  of  a gentle  breeze,  which 
crept  with  a low  whisper  through  its  leaves,  when  I dis- 
tinctly heard  a plashing  noise  in  the  water  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a hundred  yards.  I rolled  myself,  silently  and 
stealthily  as  a snake,  toward  the  spot — the  plashing  still 
continued,  and  I thought.it  must  be  an  Indian,  either  per- 
forming his  ablutions,  or  walking  up  the  bed  of  the 
stream,  in  order  to  conceal  his  foot-prints.  At  length  I 
reached  the  unwieldy  slump  of  a fallen  tree,  from  which 
I could  command  a view  of  the  water;  and  raising  my 
head  cauliously,  saw  a magnificent  stag  bathing  and  re- 
freshing himself,  unconscious  of  the  glittering  tube  wrhich 
was  pointed  straight  at  his  heart. 

I never  saw  a more  noble  or  graceful  animal ; he  toss- 
ed his  great  antlers  in  the  air,  then  dipped  his  nose  in 
the  water  and  snorted  aloud;  then  he  stamped  with  his 
feet,  and  splashed  till  the  spray  fell  over  his  sleek  and 
dappled  sides.  Here  a sportsman  would  interrupt  me, 
saying,  “ A truce  to  your  description — did  you  shoot  him 

H* 


90 


LYING  IN  WAIT. 


through  the  brain  or  through  the  heart  ?”  And  a fair 
querist  might  ask-,  “ Had  you  the  heart  to  shoot  so  beau- 
tifirl  a creature  ?”  Alas  ! alas  ! my  answer  would  satisfy 
neither  ! I had  left  my  rifle  at  home,  and  had  only  my 
fowling-piece,  loaded  with  partridge-shot;  I was  sixty 
yards  from  the  stag,  and  could  not  possibly  creep,  undis- 
covered, a step  nearer,  and  I had  not  the  heart  to  wound 
the  poor  animal,  where  there  was  little  or  no  chance  of 
killing  him.  I therefore  saw  him  conclude  his  bath  ; 
and  then  clearing,  at  one  bound,  the  willow  bushes  which 
fringed  the  opposite  bank,  he  disappeared  in  a thicket. 
I marked  well  the  place,  and  resolving  to  take  an  early 
opportunity  of  renewing  my  visit  under  more  favourable 
circumstances,  returned  home. 

On  the  following  day  1 sallied  forth  with  my  trusty 
double  rifle,  carefully  loaded,  each  barrel  carrying  a ball 
weighing  an  ounce.  I chose  the  middle  of  the  day,  be- 
cause the  deer,  after  feeding  all  the  morning,  generally 
go  down  to  the  streams  to  drink  previous  to  their  lying 
down  during  the  warm  hours  of  noon-tide.  I crept  noise- 
lessly to  iny  stump,  gathered  a few  scattered  branches  to 
complete  the  shelter  of  my  hiding-place,  and  lay  down 
with  that  mingled  feeling  (so  well  known  to  eveiy  hun- 
ter) which  unites  the  impatience  of  a lover  with  the  pa- 
tience of  Job  ! I suppose  I had  been  there  nearly  two 
hours,  when  I thought  I heard  a rustling  on  the  opposite 
side  ; it  was  only  a squirrel  hopping  from  bough  to  bough. 
Again  I was  startled  by  a saucy  pheasant,  that  seemed 
conscious  of  the  security  which  he  now  gained  from  his 
insignificance,  and  strutted,  and  scraped,  and  crowed 
within  a few  paces  of  the  muzzle  of  my  rifle.  At  length 
I distinctly  heard  a noise  among  the  willows,  on  which 
my  anxious  look  was  rivetled  ; it  grew  louder  and  louder, 
and  then  I heard  a step  in  the  water,  but  could  not  yet 
see  my  victim,  as  the  bank  made  a small  bend,  and  he 
was  concealed  by  the  projecting  bushes. 

I held  my  breath,  examined  the  copper  caps  ; and,  as 
I saw  the  willows  waving  in  the  very  same  place  in  which 
he  had  crossed  the  day  before,  I cocked  and  pointed  my 
rifle  at  the  spot  where  he  must  emerge : the  willows  on 
the  very  edge  of  the  bank  move, — my  finger  is  on  the 


SEARCH  FOR  DEER. 


95 


trigger,  when,  not  my  noble  stag,  but  an  Indian,  carry- 
ing a hind-quarter  of  venison,  jumps  down  upon  the 
smooth  sand  of  the  beach  ! J was  so  mad  with  anger 
and  disappointment,  that  I could  scarcely  take  the  sight 
of  the  rifle  from  the  fellow’s  breast  ! I remained  motion- 
less, but  watching  all  his  movements.  He  put  down  his 
rifle  and  his  venison;  and  shading  his  eyes  with  his 
hands,  made  a long  and  deliberate  examination  of  the 
bank  on  which  I was  concealed;  but  my  faithful  stump 
was  too  much  even  for  his  practised  eyes,  and  I remained 
unobserved.  He  then  examined,  carefully,  every  deer- 
track  and  foot-print  on  the  sand  whereon  he  stood  ; after 
which,  resuming  his  rifle  and  meat,  he  tried  the  river  at 
several  places,  in  order  to  find  the  shallowest  ford. 

As  it  happened,  he  chose  the  point  exactly  opposite  to 
me  ; so  that  when  he  came  up  the  bank,  he  was  within  a 
few  feet  of  me.  He  passed  close  by  my  stump  without 
noticing  me,  and  I then  gave  a sudden  and  loud  Pawnee 
yell.  He  certainly  did  jump  at  this  unexpected  appari- 
tion of  a man  armed  with  a rifle  ; but  I hastened  to  dis- 
pel any  feelings  of  uneasiness  by  friendly  signs,  because 
I do  not  conceive  such  a trial  to  be  any  fair  test  of  a man’s 
courage,  and  I have  no  doubt  that  if  he  had  given  me  a 
similar  surprise,  I should  have  been  more  startled  than  he 
was.  He  smiled  when  I showed  him  my  hiding-place, 
and  explained  to  him  my  object  in  selecting  it.  I took 
him  home  to  our  wigwam ; and,  as  my  companions  had 
met  with  no  success,  we  bought  his  meat  for  some  bread 
and  a drink  of  whiskey. 

On  the  following  day  I determined  to  get  a deer,  and 
accordingly  started  with  two  soldiers  to  a large  grove  or 
bottom,  where  they  had  seen  several  the  evening  before. 
The  weather  was  dry;  and  as  our  footsteps  on  the  dead 
leaves  were  thus  audible  at  a great  distance,  the  difficulty 
of  approaching  so  watchful  an  enemy  was  much  in- 
creased. As  the  Indians  had  driven  off  the  greater  part 
of  the  game  from  our  immediate  neighbourhood,  we 
walked  ten  or  eleven  miles  up  the  river  before  we  began 
to  hunt;  we  then  followed  its  win  ling  descent,  and  saw 
three  or  four  does,  but  could  not  get  near  enough  to 
shoot;  at  length,  one  started  near  me,  and  gallopped  off 


92 


FIRE  IN  THE  PRAIRIE. 


through  the  thick  brushwood.  I fired,  and  wounded  it 
very  severely  ; it  staggered,  and  turned  round  two  or  three 
limes;  still  it  got  off  through  the  thicket  before  I could 
get  another  sight  of  it.  At  the  same  time  I heard  ano- 
ther shot  fired  by  a soldier  a quarter  of  a mile  on  our 
right.  I looked  in  vain  for  .blood,  by  which  to  track  my 
wounded  deer,  and  gave  it  up  in  despair,  when,  just  as  I 
was  making  towards  the  river,  to  rejoin  my  companion, 
I came  upon  some  fresh  blood-tracks  ; after  following 
them  a hundred  yards,  I found  a doe  quite  dead,  but  still 
warm  ; I thought  it  was  the  one  which  I had  just  shot, 
and  hallooed  to  the  soldier,  who  returned  to  assist  me  in 
skinning  and  hanging  it  up  out  of  reach  of  the  wolves. 
On  examining  the  wound,  the  doe  proved  to  be  the  one 
which  he  had  shot.,  as  the  ball  had  entered  on  the  right 
side,  and  I had  fired  from  the  left ; he  thought  he  had 
missed  her. 

We  found  no  more  game  this  day,  and  returned  to  the 
camp.  The  other  sportsmen  had  met  with  no  success. 
The  Indians  now  set  fire  to  the  prairies  and  woods  all 
around  us,  and  the  chance  of  good  sport  daily  diminished. 
These  malicious  neighbours  were  determined  to  drive  us 
from  the  district;  they  evidently  watched  our  every  mo- 
tion ; and  whenever  we  entered  a wood  or  grove  to  hunt, 
they  were  sure  to  set  the  dry  grass  on  fire.  Half  a mile 
to  the  windward  they  pursued  this  plan  so  effectually,  as 
not  only  to  spoil  our  hunting,  but,  on  two  occasions,  to 
oblige  me  to  provide  hastily  for  my  personal  safety  : on 
the  first  of  these,  they  set  fire  to  a wood  where  I was 
passing,  and  compelled  me  to  cross  a creek  for  fear  of 
being  overtaken  by  the  flames  ; on  the  second,  having 
watched  me  as  I crossed  a large  dry  prairie,  beyond  which 
was  some  timber  that  I wished  to  try  for  deer,  they  set 
fire  to  the  grass  in  two  or  three  places  to  the  windward  ; 
and  as  it  was  blowing  fresh  at  the  time,  I saw  that  I 
should  not  have  time  to  escape  by  flight ; sol  resorted 
to  the  simple  expedient,  in  which  lies  the  only  chance  of 
safety  on  such  occasions  : I set  the  prairie  on  fire  where 
I myself  was  walking,  and  then  placed  myself  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  black  barren  space  which  I thus  created,  and 
which  covered  many  acres  before  the  advancing  flames 


FOREST  CONFLAGRATION. 


93 


reached  its  border  ; when  they  did  so,  they  naturally  ex- 
pired for  want  of  fuel,  but  they  continued  their  leaping, 
smoking,  and  crackling  way  on  each  side  of  me,  to  the 
right  and  to  the  left.  It  was  altogether  a disagreeable 
sensation,  and  I was  half  choked  with  hot  dust  and 
smoke. 

On  the  following  afternoon,  I went  out  again  in  a 
direction  that  we  had  not  tried,  where  the  prairie  was 
not  yet  burnt.  I could  find  no  deer,  and  the  shades  of 
night  began  to  close  round  me,  when,  on  the  opposite 
hills  to  those  on  which  l stood,  I observed  two  or  three 
slender  pillars  of  curling  smoke  arising  out  of  the  wood, 
which  was  evidently  now  fired  on  purpose  by  the  Indians. 
I sat  down  to  watch  the  effect ; for,  although  I had  seen 
many  prairie  fires,  I had  never  enjoyed  so  good  an  op- 
portunity as  the  present ; for  the  ground  rose  in  a kind 
of  amphitheatre,  of  which  I had  a full  and  commanding 
view.  Now  the  flames  crept  slowly  along  the  ground, 
then,  as  the  wind  rose,  they  burst  forth  with  increasing 
might,  fed  by  the  dry  and  decayed  elders  of  the  forest, 
which  crackled,  tottered,  and  fell  beneath  their  burning 
power,  they  now  rose  aloft  in  a thousand  fantastic  and 
picturesque  forms,  lighting  up  the  whole  landscape  to  a 
lurid  hue  ; while  the  dense  clouds  of  smoke  which  rolled 
gloomily  over  the  hills,  mixed  with  the  crash  of  the  fall- 
ing timber,  gave  a dreadful  splendour  to  the  scene.  I 
sat  for  some  time  enjoying  it ; and  when  I rose  to  pur- 
sue my  course  towards  home,  I had  much  difficulty  in 
finding  it.  The  night  relapsed  into  its  natural  dark- 
ness ; the  prairie  at  my  feet  was  black,  burnt,  and  track- 
less, and  I could  see  neither  stream  nor  outline  of  hill  by 
which  to  direct  my  steps. 

I sat  down  again  for  a few  minutes  to  rest  myself, 
and  to  recollect,  as  well  as  I might  be  able,  any  or  all  the 
circumstances  which  should  guide  me  in  the  direction 
which, I ought  to  take.  While  I remained  in  this  posi- 
tion a band  of  prairie  wolves,  on  an  opposite  hill,  began 
their  wild  and  shrill  concert ; and  I was  somewhat  start- 
led at  hearing  it  answered  by  the  long  loud  howl  of  a 
single  wolf,  of  the  large  black  species,  that  stood  and 
grinned  at  me,  only  a few  yards  from  the  spot  where  I 


94 


RETURN  TO  THE  FORT. 


was  seated.  I did  not  approve  of  so  close  a neighbour- 
hood lo  ibis  animal,  and  I called  to  him  to  be  off,  think- 
ing that  the  sound  of  my  voice  would  scare  him  away ; 
but  as  he  still  remained  I thought  it  better  to  prepare  my 
rifle,  in  case  he  should  come  still  nearer,  but  determined 
not  to  fire  unless  the  muzzle  touched  his  body,  as  it  was 
too  dark  to  make  a sure  shot  at  any  distance  beyond  a 
few  feet.  However,  he  soon  slunk  away,  and  left  me 
alone. 

Fortunately  I remembered  the  relative  bearings  of  our 
camp,  and  of  the  point  whence  the  wind  came,  and  after 
scrambling  ihrough  a few  thickets,  and  breaking  my 
shins  over  more  than  one  log  of  fallen  wood,  I reached 
home  without  accident  or  adventure.  The  whole  country 
around  us  was  now  so  completely  burnt  up  and  devasta- 
ted, that  nothing  remained  for  us  but  to  resume  our 
march  toward  the  fort. 

We  returned  by  the  same  dull  and  tiresome  route  by 
which  we  had  arrived.  The  weather  was  raw  and  cold, 
and  our  only  occupation  was  to  shoot  a few  grouse  for 
dinner  and  supper,  by  wandering  off  to  the  right  or  left 
of  the  trail.  We  arrived  safely  at  the  cantonment, 
having  been  absent  nearly  a fortnight.  Those  who  had 
expected  excellent  sport  must  have  been  much  disap- 
pointed; as  for  myself,  I had  been  so  often  “ taken  in” 
since  I came  to  this  country,  that  I was  rather  cautious 
in  giving  credit  to  the  stories  of  the  abundance  of  game 
with  which  settlers  in  the  western  world  amuse  stran- 
gers. It  has  occurred  to  me  lo  be  told,  “ Sir,  the  deer 
in  my  neighbourhood  are  actually  swarming ; they  come 
nightly  into  my  garden  ; we  have  as  much  venison  as 
we  choose  lo  kill  ; if  you  will  qome  and  pay  me  a visit, 
1 will  go  out  with  you,  and  insure  you  a dozen  shots  in 
a day.”  I have  paid  the  visit,  and  have  walked  with  my 
host  from  morning  till  night,  during  which  time  I got 
one,  or  perhaps  two  shots  : my  consolation  has  been  the 
renewed  assurance  that  he  never  went  over  the  same 
ground  without  seeing  fifty  deer.”  In  fact,  this  ampli- 
fication forms  a prominent  feature  of  their  character  ; and 
not  content  with  the  extent  and  fertility  of  their  territory, 
the  magnificence  of  their  rivers  and  forests,  all  of  which 


tribes  near  the  port. 


95 


are  unequalled  in  the  civilized  world,  they  will  claim  for 
themselves  a similar  pre-eminence  in  cases  where  it  is  so 
evidently  undeserved,  that  a traveller  feels  an  inclination 
to  discredit  all  alike.  However,  he  must  not  allow  him- 
self to  be  carried  away  by  this  prejudice  ; although  the 
American  geese  are  not  swrans,  they  are  very  good 
geese. 

During  my  stay  at  the  fort,  I went  frequently  to  visit 
the  lodges  of  Indians  scattered  about  the  neighbourhood  : 
they  consist  mostly  of  Winnebagoes  and  Menomenees 
(or  wild  rice  Indians);  and  I gathered  from  them  as 
much  information  as  possible  regarding  their  customs  and 
languages  (see  Appendix.)  Some  of  the  girls  of  the 
latter  tribe  have  the  prettiest  features  that  I have  seen 
among  the  Indians:  but  they  have  not  escaped  the  de* 
moralization  inseparable  from  intercourse  with  the  whites, 
and  most  of  those  who  are  good-looking  are  mistresses 
to  persons  in  or  about  the  garrison.  Of  course  they  do 
not  consider  such  a connexion  disreputable,  and  generally 
adhere  to  it  with  the  strong  attachment  and  patient 
fidelity  which  distinguish  their  character.  In  this  neigh- 
bourhood I saw  occasionally  also  a few  Sakies,  and  some 
of  the  Outagami  (or  Fox)  tribe  (see  Appendix.) 

Having  remained  for  some  days  enjoying  the  comforts 
and  hospitalities  of  the  cantonment,  I hired  a French  lad 
with  a cart  and  horse,  in  order  that  I might  have  an  op- 
portunity of  seeing  the  country  between  Prairie  du  Chien 
and  Galena,  which  had  been  represented  to  be  as  very 
interesting  and  beautiful. 

I started  on  foot  with  my  gun  in  my  hand ; and  after 
walking  six  or  seven  miles,  came  to  the  Wisconsin  river, 
which  I crossed  by  a ferry ; after  which  I proceeded  by 
a prairie  road  toward  the  house  of  a gentleman  to  whom 
I had  been  introduced  at  the  fort,  and  who  had  invited 
me  to  spend  a day  or  two  with  him.  After  leaving  a 
valley  formed  by  a streamlet  running  into  the  Wiscon- 
sin, the  road  led  tip  a bluff,  which  was  certainly  the 
steepest  that  ever  I saw  attempted  by  a cart  or  carriage, 
not  excepting  the  “ Back-bone  ” of  the  Alleghanies,  in 
Virginia,  which  cost  me  such  anxiety  and  labour  the  pre- 
ceding year.  However,  the  cart  was  light  : I,  my  ser- 


96 


FERTILE  DISTRICT. 


vant,  and  the  Canadian  lad,  worked  the  wheels  and  push* 
ed  behind,  while  the  boy  urged  his  sturdy  little  steed  by 
repeated  cries  of  “ Allons  !”  “ Marche  done  !”  &c.  By 
dint  of  our  joint  efforts,  and  tacking  frequently  in  the 
course  of  the  ascent,  we  reached  the  summit  in  safety, 
although  the  pony’s  exertions  caused  him  to  fall  more 
than  once,  and  it  required  all  our  strength  to  prevent  the 
whole  caravan — .men,  horse,  cart,  and  baggage — from 
rolling  together  to  the  bottom  of  the  hill. 

At  the  corner  of  a maize  field,  about  twenty-five  miles 
from  the  fort,  I had  been  directed  to  bear  off  to  the  right- 
hand.  T accordingly  did  so  ; and  after  losing  my  way 

only  once  among  the  woods,  reached  Mr.  E ’s  house 

just  as  evening  was  closing  in.  Like  many  of  the  emi- 
grants into  this  country,  which  was  so  lately  a wilderness, 
he  lived  in  a small  log-hut,  less  spacious  and  weather 
proof  than  the  cottage  of  the  poorest  English  peasant ; 
but  with  a good  fire,  a warm  welcome,  and  a smoking 
hot  supper,  he  must  be  but  a poor  traveller  who  cannot 
make  himself  comfortable.  My  hostess,  his  lady,  went 
about  her  cabin  “ on  hospitable  thoughts  intent,”  and 
left  me  leisure  to  play  with  a fine  little  child  of  seven  or 
eight  years  old,  who  was  the  youngest  and  of  course  the 
pet  of  the  family.  Just  by  the  door,  suspended  by  the 
neck,  were  three  of  the  finest  wild  geese  that  I ever  saw, 

which  Mr.  E had  killed  on  the  day  before,  at  one 

shot,  and  the  venison  steaks  on  the  supper-table  contri- 
buted to  the  excitement  of  my  sporting  propensities; 
but  the  weather  was  extremely  unpropitious  for  deer- 
hunting, as  the  frost  was  hard,  dry,  and  still,  so  that  a 
hunter’s  foot  might  be  heard  for  several  hundred  yards  ; 
consequently  we  saw  a few,  but  did  not  fire  a shot,  on 
the  morning  after  my  arrival. 

The  district  which  I had  now  reached  is  one  of  the 
most  tempting  to  an  emigrant  of  any  that  I have  seen  : 
it  is  watered  by  the  Grant  river,  one  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful winding  streams  in  America  ; its  banks  are  here  and 
there  clothed  with  the  finest  timber,  abounding  in  deer 
and  other  game  ; in  some  places  it  has  formed  a deposite 
of  alluvium,  on  which  corn,  grass,  and  every  vegetable 
production  can  be  raised  in  the  greatest  abundance. 


FERTILE  DISTRICT. 


97 


The  general  character  of  the  country  is  undulating  (or, 
as  it  is  termed  in  America,  “ rolling  ”),  the  soil  is  of  the 
finest  quality,  and  a ready  market  for  farm  produce  can. 
be  found  at  several  neighbouring  towns,  such  as  Prairie 
du  Chien,  Galena,  Dubuques,  and  other  places,  where 
the  mining  population  already  requires  twenty  times  the 
supply  that  the  country  farmers  can  afford  ; while  the 
unexplored  mines  of  lead  render  the  value  of  land  great 
beyond  calculation  : at  this  time  it  was  in  the  market  at 
one  and  a quarter  dollar  per  acre,  the  fixed  government 
price. 

In  one  respect  I prefer  it  very  much  to  any  situation, 
that  I have  seen  in  the  Great  Mississippi  valley,  namely, 
in  its  healthiness.  Fever  and  ague,  those  dreadful 
scourges  of  Illinois,  Missouri,  and  the  other  states  bor- 
dering on  the  great  western  water,  seem  here  unknown  ; 
and  the  inhabitants  are  also  free  from  the  pulmonary  com- 
plaints so  common  in  the  eastern  sates.  In  the  coo- 
lies,* or  little  valleys,  lying  between  the  ridges  of  hill, 
by  which  the  country  is  intersected,  are  springs  of  the 
purest  and  most  delicious  water  ; while  all  the  vegetables 
most  valuable  for  domestic  use,  are  raised  abundantly 
with  the  least  possible  cultivation.  Ireland  herself  can- 
not boast  of  potatoes  more  mealy  or  farinaceous,  nor  did. 
I ever  see  them  attain  so  great  a size  ; one  of  them  is 
sometimes  put  into  a dish  alone,  and  is  sufficient  for  two 
or  three  persons.  Peas,  beans,  turnips,  and  beet  of 
every  description,  come  to  the  same  perfection  ; and  the 
beef  and  mutton  are  the  best  that  I have  eaten  in  the 
United  States. 

On  the  second  day  of  my  arrival  it  rained  without 
ceasing,  and  there  was  no  wind  ; so  that  there  was  little 
chance  of  sport.  At  night  the  weather  changed  sud- 
denly, and  severe  frost  ensued.  On  the  following  morn- 
ing I went  out  soon  after  dawn  to  enjoy  the  fresh,  air, 
and  the  bright  beams  of  a young  sun.  I never  shall  for- 
get the  beauty  of  that  woodland  scene.  Every  “ herb, 
tree,  fruit,  flower,  glistened  with  dew,  and  not  only  with 
dew,  but  with  the  rain  of  the  previous  day,  frozen  into 

* A western  phrase,  obviously  from  the  French. 

VOL.  II. — I 


98 


WOODLAND  FROST. 


the  most  bright  and  shining  crystals,  reflecting,  according 
to  their  forms,  the  various  prismatic  hues  with  which 
they  were  impregnated  by  the  solar  rays.  Neither  the 
pencil  of  the  painter,  nor  pen  of  the  poet,  could  convey  a 
representation  of  the  resplendent  brilliancy  of  Nature’s 
spangled  mantle  of  ice  on  that  lovely  morning  : the  an- 
cient forest  looked  like  one  of  those  great  crystalline  pa- 
laces, created  by  the  fertile  imagination  of  Ariosto ; and 
a northern  Arrnida  might  have  made  her  bower  among 
the  fantastic  yet  graceful  vines  which  hung  from  the 
spreading  arms  of  the  forest  trees  ; every  curl  of  their 
“ leafy  tresses”  terminating  in  resplendent  icicles.  I 
have  seen,  in  the  court  of  the  sovereign,  and  in  some  of 
the  assemblies  of  British  fashion,  the  brow,  the  neck,  and 
the  waist  of  beauty,  adorned  with  diamonds  of  inestima- 
ble value  ; shining  and  brilliant  they  were  too, — but,  oh  ! 
how  far  less  bright  and  lustrous  than  those  with  which 
the  humblest  bush,  or  shrub,  was  decked  on  this  lovely 
morning  by  the  icy  breath  of  winter  ! 

I could  not  help  calling  to  mind  one  of  those  passages, 
in  which  the  Divine  Moralist  and  Legislator  reproves 
the  vanity  of  man  : — “ Look  at  the  lilies  of  the  field  ; 
they  toil  not,  neither  do  they  spin ; yet  Solomon,  in  all 
his  glory,  was  not  arrayed  like  one  of  these  !” 


ENGLISH  SETTLER. 


99 


CHAPTER  VII. 

An  English  Settler. — Search  for  Deer. — Excursion  to  Dubuques. — • 
River  Platte. — Crossing  the  Ferry. — The  Ferryman’s  Extortion. — ■ 
Ramble  among  the  Mountains — its  Excitement. — “ Awkward  Slue.” 
— Deer  Feeding. — Practice  in  Woodcraft. — Beautiful  Scene. — Din* 
nerin  the  Ferryman’s  House. — A Western  Twilight. — Arrival  at  Du- 
buques.— Company  in  the  Bar-room  of  the  Tavern. — Meeting  with 
Dr.  M.  of  the  United  States  Army. — Our  Dormitory. — Singular  Dia- 
logue.— Theft  rare  in  the  Towns  on  the  Mississippi. — Mines  near 
Dubuques. — Religious  Service  in  the  Town. — A Bully. — Whimsical 
Delusion. — Tomb  of  a Spanish  Miner. — Mr.  F.  the  Geologist. — 
Arrival  at  St.  Louis. — Mean  Extortion. 

I remained  another  day  with  my  host  on  Grant  river, 
and  then  proceeded  to  a farmer’s  house  about  fifteen 
miles  farther  to  the  south.  The  soil  here  was  much  the 
same  in  quality  as  that  which  I had  just  left.  Settlers 
were  rapidly  emigrating  into  this  country ; among  them 
I found  an  English  labourer  and  his  wife,  who  had  just 
finished  the  building  of  a neat  wooden  cottage,  the  inte- 
rior of  which,  with  its  corner  cupboard  of  Staffordshire 
crockery,  gave  sufficient  evidence  of  the  land  whence 
its  occupants  came  : they  had  only  been  settled  in  this 
quarter  two  years,  but  every  thing  around  them  bore  the 
marks  of  comfort  and  prosperity  ; cattle,  pigs,  and  poul- 
try, loitered  round  their  cabin,  a pair  of  stout  horses 
stood  in  the  corner  of  an  enclosure  feasting  on  a heap  of 
maize,  and  the  table  was*  well  supplied  with  milk,  tea, 
butter,  venison,  potatoes,  and  honey.  It  was  impossible 
(in  spite  of  that  love  of  home  which  amounts  in  me  to  a 
prejudice)  not  to  contrast  in  my  imagination  their  present 
situation  with  that  which  they  filled  three  years  ago  as 
day  labourers  in  Staffordshire  ; the  man  earning  with 
difficulty  two  dollars  per  week,  and  either  suffering  all 
the  miseries  of  poverty  and  want,  or  squabbling  with  an 
overseer  for  some  pitiful  allowance  of  two  or  three  shil- 
lings extra,  in  consequence  of  having  encumbered  him- 
self and  the  parish  with  a fine  family  of  children. 


100 


EXCURSION  TO  DUBUQUES. 


I found  at  my  new  halting-place  several  woodsmen 
who  were  out  in  search  of  deer : I accompanied  them, 
and  on  the  first  day  one  of  them  killed  a buck  ; I did  not 
get  a shot.  On  the  second  day  I was  more  successful, 
as  I wounded  one  in  the  morning,  which  we  afterwards 
secured;  and  later  in  the  day  I killed  another  deer,  but 
it  was  young,  and  not  very  fat. 

J then  left  my  servant  and  baggage  to  go  on  to  Galena, 
while  I struck  off  on  foot  to  see  the  country,  with  the 
intention  of  crossing  the  river  to  Dubuques,  which  I have 
before  noted  as  being  remarkable  for  the  rich  mines  of 
lead  in  its  neighbourhood.  As  the  distance  was  about 
forty-five  miles,  and  I wished  to  arrive  by  daylight,  I did 
not  judge  it  prudent  to  decline  my  worthy  host’s  offer  of 
a horse  for  the  first  ten  or  fifteen  miles.  I accordingly 
took  with  me  only  a pedestrian’s  proper  equipage  ; name- 
ly, a tooth-brush  in  my  pocket,  and  a walking-stick  in 
my  hand,  and  started,  accompanied  by  a boy,  who  was  to 
act  as  guide,  and  to  lead  back  my  steed. 

I rode  the  fifteen  miles  through  an  undulating  w’ooded 
country  only  partially  “settled,”  but  possessing  every 
advantage  and  capability  for  agriculture;  namely,  rich 
soil,  fine  timber,  and  excellent  water.  1 then  sent  back 
the  boy  ; and  getting  all  the  information  possible  respect- 
ing the  paths  to  the  right,  to  the  left,  round  one  hill  and 
across  another,  and  receiving  repealed  assurances  that  I 
could  not  miss  my  way,  (for  the  good  reason,  that  my 
informant  knew  it  as  well  as  a cockney  knows  the  road 
to  Highgate,)  I struck  alone  into  the  woods.  All  went 
right  for  the  first  few  miles,  and  I trudged  merrily  along, 
astonishing  the  quiet  old  forest  sometimes  with  the  “ High- 
land Laddie,”  or  “ Bonnie  Prince  Charlie  ;”  sometimes 
attempting  the  Pawnee  yell,  (which  last,  by  the  by,  would 
ten  years  ago  have  transferred  my  scalp  into  the  hands 
of  some  prowling  Saki,*)  wrhen  my  mirth  and  music 
were  suddenly  checked  by  a fork  in  the  little  path  which 
I was  following.  The  two  new  trails  were  equally  dis- 
tinct ; both  seemed  to  lead  toward  ihe  Mississippi,  and 
I had  been  told  to  take  the  first  path  to  the  right : I he- 

* This  territory  belonged  then  to  the  tribe  called  Sdkies  and  Foxes* 


CROSSING  THE  FERRY. 


101 


sitated  a minute  or  two,  during  which  I consulted  my 
compass,  and  had  time  to  observe  faint  traces  of  a horse’s 
hoof  in  that  which  led  to  the  left;  and,  as  I knew  that  I 
had  to  cross  a horse-ferry  over  the  river  Platte,*  I struck 
off  into  the  latter,  in  defiance  of  my  instructions.  My 
“ calculations”  proved  correct,  and  after  an  hour’s  brisk 
walking  I reached  the  said  ferry. 

This  river  Platte  is  a beautiful  winding  stream,  about 
as  large  as  the  Trent,  near  Newark  or  Clifton.  The 
weather  was  extremely  cold  ; a little  snow  had  fallen,, 
and  this  rendered  the  finding  of  a small  path  in  these 
woods  no  easy  task,  as  no  person  or  animal  had  passed 
it  since  the  snow-fall.  I hailed  some  people  who  were 
on  the  opposite  bank  at  work,  to  bring  me  over  a boat, 
or  some  means  of  crossing  : they  hallooed  to  ask  if  I 
could  “ paddle  a skiff t on  my  answering  in  the  affirma- 
tive, I was  told,  that,  if  I looked  down  the  stream,  I should 
find  one  in  the  reeds,  and  I might  paddle  myself  over. 
The  shore  was  marshy,  and  the  frost  just  hard  enough 
to  make  a kind  of  crusted  mud,  which  would  not  bear 
my  weight,  but  would  (and  did)  considerably  annoy  my 
ancles  and  shins ; however,  there  was  no  remedy,  and  I 
scrambled  on  through  the  reeds,  (from  which  the  sun  had 
melted  the  snow  just  enough  to  wet  me  up  to  the  shoul- 
ders,) and,  at  length,  discovered  the  skifft , a huge,  clumsy 
canoe,  hollowed  out  from  the  trunk  of  a sycamore  ; it 
contained  no  bench  to  sit  upon,  and  was  half  full  of  wa- 
ter : altogether,  1 fancy  it  must  have  been  a specimen  of 
naval  architecture  not  unlike  the  old  ship  Argo  ; how- 
ever, my  classical  parallel  must  stop  here,  for  1 claim  no 
resemblance  to  Theseus,  and  was  much  more  disposed 
to  attack  a leg  of  mutton  than  to  go  in  quest  of  a golden 
fleece. 

I seized  the  paddle  and  pushed  off;  and  as  I sat  in 
this  floating  cold  bath,  and  made  it  creep,  sluggishly 
through  the  water,  I muttered  to  myself  (not  for  the  first 
time  in  my  life)  old  Horace’s  “ Illi  robur  et  ces  triplex  /” 
My  craft  was  so  water-logged  that  the  least  lateral  mo- 

* The  rivers  in  America  have  undergone  almost  as  much  reduplica- 
tion of  appellatives  as  her  cities.  In  my  western  tour  I have  already 
met  with  four  rivers  named  “ Platte.” 

1* 


102 


ferryman’s  extortion. 


tion  would  have  filled  and  sunk  her;  and  I began  to  think, 
if  I were  to  be  drowned  there,  what  would  be  my  elegy. 
Should  I,  if  I stuck  between  the  reeds  and  mud,  find  any 
bird  to  sing  over  me  (like  the  swan  in  Maeander)  “ Sic 
ubi  fata  vocant  udis  abjectus  in  herbis  ?”  Should  I,  like 
Palmurus,  immortalize  the  “ unknown  strand”  on  which 
I was  cast?  Was  there  any  Milton  to  make  a Lycidas 
of  me  ? Alas  ! no.  My  elegy  must  have  come  from 
the  pen  of  the'  great  comedian,  “ Que  diable  allait-il 
faire  dans  cette  galere  ?n 

Despite  these  melancholy  musings,  I brought  my 
Argo  safe  into  port,  sprang  up  the  bank,  and  proceeded 
to  question  the  “ gentleman  of  the  ferry,”  (who,  with  his 
hands  thrust  comfortably  into  his  side-pockets,  and  a quid 
in  his  cheek,  had  been  a tranquil  spectator  of  my  naviga- 
tion,) respecting  my  route  toward  the  next  ferry  where 
I was  to  cross  the  Mississippi.  He  told  me  “ that  there 
was  a path  through  the  woods,  that  the  distance  was 
only  eight  or  ten  miles,  but  that  I could  not  go  on  foot 
on  account  of  an  obstacle  in  the  form  of  an  ‘awkward 
slue.’  ”*  Upon  interrogating  him  farther  respecting  this 
“creek,”  to  which  he  applied  the  expressive  epithets  of 
“ugly”  and  “awkward,”!  I learned  that  he  considered  it 
too  wide  to  leap,  too  shallow  to  swim,  and  too  deep  in 
mud  to  wade  ; and  that  I must  go  around  and  head  it, 
which  would  not  take  me  more  than  four  or  five  miles 
out  of  my  way.  All  this  did  sound  somewhat  “ awk- 
ward but  I determined  to  adopt  the  motto  of  a sporting 
member  of  congress,  well-known  through  all  America, 
“ Go-a-head  and  I was  about  to  do  so,  when  the  ferry- 
man reminded  me  that  I had  not  paid,  and  put  forth  his 
hand  for  half  a dollar.  It  did  appear  rather  queer,  that 
after  breaking  my  shins  among  his  half-frozen  marshes, 

* I do  not  know  how  to  spell  this  word  : its  general  acceptation  in 
the  West  is  a channel  made  in  the  great  river  by  an  island  ; the  smaller 
branch,  running  between  that  island  and  the  nearest  shore  is  called  “ a 
slue.”  The  place  that  I was  about  to  cross  was,  properly  speaking, 
“ a creek.” 

t 1 believe  these  two  words  are  perfectly  orthodox  in  the  sporting 
world  in  the  ‘‘  old  country  and  there  is  no  Meltonian  to  whom  the 
terms  “ an  awkward  brook,”  and  an  “ugly  fence,”  are  not  unpleasantly 
iamiliar. 


RAMBLE  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS. 


103 


and  then  exposing  my  life  to  the  attacks  of  rheumatism, 
catarrh,  &c.,  in  bringing  over  to  him  his  half-sunk  canoe, 
I was  to  pay  him  for  ferrying  me  ! 

While  I was  deliberating  upon  the  propriety  of  making 
or  resisting  this  payment,  a drover  came  up  who  wished 
to  have  two  yoke  of  oxen  taken  over.  The  large  flat- 
boat  was  in  still  worse  trim  than  my  Argo,  and  conse- 
quently could  not  go  over  at  all ; and  he  had  no  alterna- 
tive but  to  force  his  oxen  into  the  river,  and  make  them 
swim  over.  When  I found  that  this  fellow  paid  the 
ferriage  for  his  oxen  under  these  circumstances,  I fol- 
lowed his  example  without  murmur  or  hesitation — so 
great  is  the  consolation  which  we  derive  from  seeing  our 
neighbour  worse  cheated  than  ourselves.  Fortunate  in- 
deed is  it  for  the  worthy  ferryman,  that  the  ex-member 
for  Middlesex  does  not  flourish  in  this  district;  for  never 
was  service  non-performed  so  overpaid,  nor  sinecure  so 
complete  as  his  ; no,  not  in  all  the  treasury  records  from 
the  lime  of  the  administration  of  Sir  R.  Walpole  till  that 
of  Lord  Grey. 

► Wishing  him  “good  morning,”  I started  again  at  a 
brisk  pace,  revolving  in  my  mind  the  various  plans  by 
which  1 should  attempt  the  passage  of  the  “awkward 
slue.”  I had  now  got  among  the  high  and  steep  bluffs 
which  extend  along  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Mississippi ;, 
my  foot  was  on  a hill ; I had  walked  just  far  enough  to- 
stretch  my  muscles  and  to  raise  my  spirits,  and  I bounded 
along,  leaving  “ care  the  canker”  far  behind.  Brandish- 
ing my  knotted  cudgel,  I felt  not  quite  like  Ascanius,  as 
if  I “ wished  to  see  a bear  or  tawny  lion  spring  from  the- 
thicket ;”  but  as  if  I could  have  cracked  the  crown  of  the 
clerk  of  Copmanhurst  himself  in  a good-humoured  bout 
at  quarter-staff.  Indeed,  T have  never  known  such  ex- 
citement from  any  exercise,  not  even  from  the  head-long 
gallop  of  a buffalo  chase,  as  I have  experienced  from  a 
solitary  walk  among  mountains;  thoughts  crowd  upon 
thoughts,  which  I can  neither  control,  nor  breathe  in 
words;  I almost  feel  that  I am  a poet,  but  (as  Byron 
beautifully  expresses  it)  I “compress  the  god  within 
me.”  All  the  beloved  dwellers  in  ihe  secret  cells  of  my 
memory  walk  by  my  side — I people  the  height  of  tho* 


104 


CROSSING  THE  SLUE. 


hill,  and  the  shades  of  the  forest,  not  only  with  those 
whom  I have  known,  but  with  all  my  friends  from  fairy 
land ; and,  in  these  illusions  of  my  waking  dream,  I for- 
get time,  fatigue,  and  distance,  and  sometimes  lose  my 
way  ! 

My  head  full  of  these  strange  fantasies,  and  my  feet 
feeling  the  sympathetic  impulse  of  their  excitement,  a 
short  hour  brought  me  to  the  edge  of  the  “ awkward 
slue.”  It  was  indeed  worthy  of  its  appellation,  and  very 
nearly  answered  the  description  of  the  ferryman  : it  was 
a lazy  muddy  stream,  with  soft  marshy  banks,  from 
which  the  boldest  leaper  among  the  Tyrolese  chamois- 
hunters  could  not  have  attempted  to  spring.  I soon 
found  that  my  only  alternative  lay  between  going  round 
or  bridging  it ; of  course,  I resolved  upon  attempting  the 
latter.  Unfortunately,  I had  no  tomahawk  with  me,  and 
was  compelled  to  search  about  till  I could  find  some  fal- 
len tree  which  would  bear  my  weight,  and  yet  not  be  too 
heavy  for  me  to  drag  or  carry.  Propitious  Fate  led  me 
to  a poplar  of  four  or  five  inches  diameter,  which  had 
been  overthrown  by  the  rough  breath  of  Boreas  ; I broke 
off  as  many  branches  as  possible,  and  with  some  difficulty 
“toted”  my  burthen  toward  the  slue  : on  reaching  the 
bank,  I found  that  my  tree  was  scarcely  long  enough  ; 
at  least,  it  tapered  so  much  toward  the  upper  end,  that 
I could  not  discreetly  trust  my  weight  to  the  latter  ex- 
tremity. On  examining  a little  farther  up  the  stream,  I 
saw  an  old  decayed  log  projecting  into  it  from  the  op- 
posite side,  which  appeared  to  have  once  formed  part  of 
a foot-bridge;  thither  I brought  my  poplar,  and  made  it 
fall  so  that  its  top  came  across  this  old  log:  the  only 
problem  now  was,  whether  the  latter  was  rotten,  and 
would  betray  the  confidence  which  I was  about  to  repose 
in  it.  However,  we  are  often  compelled,  in  life,  to  trust 
something  to  a man  whom  we  know  to  be  a rogue  ; and 
having  no  choice  but  to  trust  my  frail  bridge,  or  remain 
where  I was,  (for  what  man,  under  thirty  years  of  age, 
ever  thought  of  going  five  miles  round  a creek  not  thirty 
feet  broad  ?)  I threw  my  cudgel,  shoes,  and  jacket  over 
before  me,  with  the  same  mingled  spirit  of  gallantry  and 
desperation  with  which  Turenne  threw  his  baton  ds 


AUTUMN  SCENERY. 


105 


marechal  into  the  ranks  of  the  enemy,  and,  then,  not  to 
follow  was  impossible.  Arming  myself  with  a long  pole 
that  could  reach  the  bottom  of  the  stream,  and  steadying 
myself  on  the  trembling  poplar,  I came  down  to  the 
“slippery  verge,”  and  made  my  vows  to  the  nvmpb  of 
the  flood,  as  Turnus  did  to  his  watery  goddess-mother; 
I addressed  the  fifty  daughters  of  Nereus,  who  preside 
over  rivers  and  fountains  ;*  in  short,  like  Gray’s  immortal 
Pussie,  I “ mewed  to  every  watery  god  and  with  three 
or  four  steps,  as  firm,  light,  and  rapid  as  I could  make 
them,  reached  the  opposite  bank  in  safety.  Having 
thanked  all  these  propiiious  nymphs  for  their  favour  in 
permitting  me  to  pass  the  “ awkward  slue,”  (which  cost 
me  so  much  trouble  to  bridge,  and  which  has  led  me  into 
the  worse  scfope  of  bringing  Turenne,  Tumus,  an 
Athenian  chorus,  and  a cat,  all  into  one  sentence,)  I left 
my  bridge  and  my  pole  for  the  benefit  of  the  next  way- 
farer. 

To  resume  my  journey,  and  with  it  a pure  Anglo- 
Saxon  style,  from  which  these  classic  images  have  se- 
duced me,  I put  on  my  jacket,  and  with  my  trusty  staff 
in  hand,  pursued  my  way  over  hill  and  valley,  as  proud 
and  self-satisfied  as  Caesar  after  he  had  made  his  famous 
bridge  over  the  Rhine.  The  sun  was  verging  toward 
the  west,  and  I wished  to  reach  Dubuques  before  night, 
lest  I should  lose  my  way.  The  afternoon  was  beauti- 
ful; the  sun  brilliant;  and  the  variety  of  light  and  shade 
occasioned  by  the  high  bluffs  among  which  rav  path 
wound,  added  a living  freshness  to  scenery  which  was 
clothed  in  the  rich  and  sombre  garb  of  autumn. 

What  do  I see  over  yonder  point  ? Is  it  a forked 
piece  of  stick  ? Does  it  not  move  ? — It  does  ; — it  is  the 
antlers  of  a buck  ! Oh  my  rifle  ! my  rifle  ! why,  for  the 
first  time  in  my  western  tour,  have  I parted  from  thee  ? 
Never  did  the  unhorsed  and  desperate  Richard,  call  with 
more  frantic  anxiety  for  a horse,  than  I now  called  for  a 


7T eVTrjKOVTa  KOVpCU 

N?7p£Wf,  al  Kara  tvovtov 
aevvauv  TE  TTOTa/jlLJV 
dcvac;  x°pev6fxEvcu,  k.t.'X. 


EURIP.  ION. 


106 


MU, SINGS. 


rifle.  It  was  all  in  vain.  However,  the  opportunity  for 
practice  in  wood-craft  was  not  to  be  lost ; and  throwing 
myself  on  the  ground,  I began  to  creep,  in  order  to  see 
how  I could  have  managed  him,  had  I been  armed  : get- 
ting well  on  his  lee-side,  and  taking  advantage  of  the 
ground,  I crawled  within  forty  paces  of  him.  There 
was  no  brushwood,  and  he  was  securely  cropping  the 
short  sweet  grass  near  the  summit  of  a high  bluff,  along 
the  side  of  which  were  scattered  a few  fantastic  and 
stunted  blurr  oaks.  Like  the  Shakspearean  Achilles 
(who,  by  the  by,  is  as  mean  and  cowardly  a bully  as 
ever  drew  breath),  I looked  my  forest  Hector  all  over, 
and  selected  the  very  spot  where  I could  give  the  fatal 
wound. 

Peeping  cautiously  over  the  comb  of  the  hill,  I saw  at 
a small  distance  two  does  feeding.  I crept  also  within 
forty  or  fifty  steps  of  them  ; they  seemed  to  trust  them- 
selves altogether  to  the  escort  of  their  beau,  and  to  pay 
exclusive  attention  to  the  delicate  pasture  which  “ Na- 
ture boon”  had  placed  before  them. 

What  a beautiful  scene  it  was  ! below  me  lay  the  vast 
expanse  of  the  Mississippi,  on  whose  unruffled  bosom  the 
rays  of  the  declining  sun  were 

“ In  all  their  crimson  glory  spread.” 

The  back-ground  was  filled  by  th^  dark  wrooded  outline 
of  the  Hack  Hawk  territory,  whilejon  the  chequered  and 
undulating  prairie,  these  three  beautiful  animals  filled  the 
fore-ground  of  my  picture. 

I forgot  my  journey  in  the  contemplation  of  this  pros- 
pect, and  my  musings  took  the  following  direction  : — 
“ What  a creature  of  circumstances  is  man  ! — here  am  I 
enjoying  the  repose  of  this  scene,  the  harmonies  of  ani- 
mate and  vegetable  nature,  and  watching,  almost  with  a 
feeling  of  tenderness,  the  grassy  feast  and  playful  move- 
ments of  these  three  innocent  creatures  ! but,  had  I been 
walking  with  my  rifle  instead  of  my  cudgel,  not  one  of 
these  ideas  would  have  entered  my  brain ; I should  have 
destroyed  without  mercy  certainly  one,  perhaps  two,  of 
these  deer;  and  instead  of  moralizing  as  I now  am,  over 
their  grace  and  beauty,  I should  have  been  employed  in 


DINNER  AT  THE  FERRYMANS. 


107 


playing  the  forest  butcher  with  my  hunting-knife,  and  in 
ascertaining  the  quantity  of  fat  on  the  haunch  and  ribs  !” 

I was  obliged  to  start  up  from  these  meditations,  and  to 
increase  my  speed  in  oyder  to  cross  the  Mississippi  be- 
fore night-fall.  As  it  was  now  a continued  descent  to 
the  ferry,  I ran  most  of  the  way,  although  there  were 
many  points  where  the  beauty  of  the  view  tempted  me 
to  linger.  On  arriving  I found  that  the  ferryman’s  canoe 
was  ready,  and  that  he  wished  me  to  lose  no  time,  as  he 
preferred  returning  before  it  was  quite  dark.  He  farmed 
a considerable  tract  of  land  ; and,  like  every  farmer  in 
the  West,  “kept  entertainment.”  Unfortunately  for  the 
alacrity  of  my  movements,  I saw,  while  passing  the 
house,  a table  covered  with  a clean  white  cloth,  on  which 
were  already  placed  sundry  vessels  containing  hot  corn- 
bread,  fresh  butter,  milk,  honey,  and  smoking  potatoes; 
while  the  figure  of  the  busy  housewife  stooping  over  the 
fire,  accompanied  by  a certain  hissing  frizzing  sound, 
announced  that  a dish  of  steaks  was  in  the  last  stage  of 
preparation.  It  will  readily  be  believed  that,  after  a ride 
of  fifteen,  and  a walk  of  twenty-five  miles  (not  to  mention 
the  construction  of  a bridge  by  the  way),  my  eyes  were 
not  blind,  nor  my  ears  deaf,  to  these  sights  and  sounds  ; 
I hesitated — the  proverb  says  that  he  who  does  so  is 
lost:  whether  I verified  it  or  not,  I know  not,  but  in  two 
minutes  I was  sitting  opposite  the  traveller  for  whom 
this  dinner  had  been  prepared.  He  seemed  to  be  a quiet 
moderate  man,  totally  unequal  to  the  task  of  making  any 
serious  impression  on  the  plentiful  provision  before  him  ; 
but  the  unflinching  appetite  of  his  ally  promised  an  easy 
victory.  The  astonished  dame  stooped  again  to  replen- 
ish the  dish  of  venison  steaks — more  hot  cakes  were  pro- 
duced ; in  short,  I might  venture  to  assert  without  va- 
nity, that  ample  justice  was  done  to  the  excellent  cook- 
ery of  mine  hostess.  I then  embarked  in  ihe  boat  with 
my  ferryman ; and  soon  after  leaving  the  shore,  induced 
him,  by  paying  double  fare,  to  land  me  two  miles  below 
the  usual  landing,  by  which  means  I should  cut  off  four 
of  the  eight  miles  which  yet  remained  of  my  journey. 

The  sun  was  now  throwing  his  parting  glance  on  the 
summits  of  the  eastern  bluffs,  while  those  on  the  west 


108 


WESTERN  TWILIGHT. 


slept  in  gloomy  shade ; the  woods  which  skirt  the  river, 
were  silent  and  black  as  night,  and  the  river  wore  that 
dead  and  leaden  colour  which  is  thrown  upon  it  by  a 
western  twilight  ! I sat  in  the  stern  of  the  little  boat, 
steering  her  with  an  oar,  and  enjoying  that  greatest  of  all 
promoters  of  philosophical  meditation — a cigar.  The 
evening  frost  now  set  in  with  great  severity;  the  stars 
began  to  twinkle ; and  as  1 was  lightly  dressed  and  had 
no  sort  of  cloak  or  over-coat,  I was  not  sorry  when  we 
reached  the  opposite  shore,  and  I w?as  again  enabled  to 
walk  myself  into  warmth  and  comfort. 

I reached  Dubuques  without  accident,  and  proceeded  to 
the  only  tavern  of  which  it  can  boast.  The  landlord, 
whom  1 had  met  in  the  steamer,  on  ascending  the  Mis- 
sissippi, promised  me  a bed  to  myself ; a luxury  that  is 
by  no  means  easily  obtained  by  travellers  in  ihe  West. 
The  bar-room,  which  was  indeed  the  only  public  sitting-  v 
room,  was  crowded  with  a parcel  of  blackguard  noisy 
miners,  from  whom  the  most  experienced  and  notorious 
blasphemers  in  Portsmouth  or  Wapping  might  have 
taken  a lesson ; and  I felt  more  than  ever  annoyed  by 
that  absurd  custom,  so  prevalent  in  America,  of  forcing 
travellers  of  quiet  and  respectable  habits  into  the  society 
of  ruffians,  by  giving  them  no  alternative  but  sitting  in 
the  bar-room  or  walking  the  street. 

It  may  be  said  that  I am  illiberal  in  censuring  the  cus- 
toms of  a country,  by  reference  to  those  of  a small  infant 
village  ; but  the  custom  to  which  I allude  is  not  confined 
to  villages;  it  it  common  to  most  towns  in  the  West, 
and  is  partially  applicable  to  the  hotels  in  the  eastern 
cities.  They  may  have  dining-rooms  of  enormous  extent, 
tables  groaning  under  hundreds  of  dishes  ; but  of  com- 
fort, quiet,  and  privacy,  they  know  but  little.  It  is  doubt- 
less true,  that  the  bar  of  a small  village  tavern  in  Eng-  - 
land  may  be  crowded  with  guests,  little,  if  at  all,  more  re- 
fined or  orderly  ihan  those  Dubuques  miners,  but  I never 
found  a tavern  in  England  so  small  or  mean,  that  I could 
not  have  the  comfort  of  a little  room  to  myself,  where  I , 
might  read,  write,  or  follow  my  own  pursuits  without  an-  J 
noyance. 

1 sat  by  the  fire-side  watching  the  strange  and  rough- 


SINGULAR  DIALOGUE. 


109 


looking  characters  who  successively  entered  to  drink  a 
glass  of  the  nauseous  dilution  of  alcohol,  variously  co- 
loured, according  as  they  asked  for  brandy,  whiskey,  or 
rum,  when  a voice  from  the  door  inquiring  of  the  land- 
lord. whether  accommodations  for  the  night  were  to  be 
had,  struck  my  ear  as  familiar  to  me.  I rose  to  look  at 
the  speaker,  and  our  astonishment  was  mutual,  wnen  I 
recognized  Dr.  M.,  of  the  United  States  army,  who  is  a 
relative  of  its  commander-in-chief.  He  is  a very  plea- 
sant gentlemanly  man,  from  the  state  of  New  York,  whose 
acquaintance  I had  made  in  my  trip  to  Fort  Leaven- 
worth, to  which  place  he  was  now  on  his  return.  After 
an  exchange  of  the  first  expressions  of  pleasure  and  sur- 
prise, I assisted  him  in  getting  up  his  baggage  from  the 
canoe  in  which  he  had  come  down  the  river,  and  in  de- 
spatching a supper  that  was  set  before  him.  We  then 
returned  to  the  bar;  and  after  talking  over  some  of  our 
adventures  since  we  parted,  requested  to  be  shown  to 
our  dormitory.  This  was  a large  room,  occupying 
the  whole  of  the  first  floor,  and  containing  about  eight 
or  nine  beds  ; the  doctor  selected  one  in  the  centre  of 
the  wall,  opposite  the  door ; I chose  one  next  to  him, 
and  the  nearest  to  me  was  given  to  an  officer  who  ac- 
companied the  doctor.  The  other  beds  contained  two  or 
three  persons,  according  to  the  number  of  guests  requir- 
ing accommodation. 

The  doctor,  his  friend,  and  I,  resolutely  refused  to  ad- 
mit any  partner  into  our  beds  ; and,  notwithstanding  the 
noise  and  oaths  still  prevalent  in  the  bar,  we  fell  asleep. 
I was  awakened  by  voices  close  to  my  bed-side,  and 
turned  round  to  listen  to  the  following  dialogue  : — 

Doctor  (to  a drunken  fellow  who  was  taking  off  his 
coat  and  waistcoat  close  to  the  doctor’s  bed). — “ Halloo  ! 
where  the  devil  are  you  coming  to?” 

Drunkard. — “ To  bed,  to  be  sure  !” 

Doctor. — “ Where  ?” 

Drunkard. — “ Why,  with  you.” 

Doctor  (raising  his  voice  angrily). — “ I ’ll  be  d — d if 
you  come  into  this  bed  !” 

Drunkard  (walking  off  with  an  air  of  dignity). — “ Well, 

Vol.  II.— K 


110 


RELIGIOUS  SERVICE. 


you  need  not  be  so  d — d particular ; — I ’m  as  particular 
as  you,  I assure  you  !” 

Three  other  tipsy  fellows  staggered  into  the  room, 
soon  after  midnight,  and  slept  somewhere  ; they  went  off 
again  before  daylight  without  paying  for  their  lodging, 
and  the  landlord  did  not  even  know  that  they  had  entered 
his  house. 

It  certainly  appears  at  first  sight  to  be  a strange  ana- 
moly  in  human  nature,  that  at  Dubuques,  Galena,  and 
other  rising  towns  on  the  Mississippi,  containing,  in  pro- 
portion to  their  size,  as  profligate,  turbulent,  and  aban- 
doned a population  as  any  in  the  world,  theft  is  almost 
unknown  ; and  though  dirks  are  frequently  drawn,  and 
pistols  fired  in  savage  and  drunken  brawls,  ,by  ruffians 
who  regard  neither  the  laws  of  God  nor  man,  I do  not 
believe  that  an  instance  of  larceny  or  house-breaking  has 
occurred.  So  easily  are  money  and  food  here  obtained 
by  labour,  that  it  seems  scarcely  worth  a man’s  while  to 
steal.  Thus,  the  solution  of  the  apparent  anomaly  is  to 
be  found  in  this,  that  theft  is  a naughty  child,  of  which 
idleness  is  the  father  and  want  the  mother. 

I spent  the  following  day  in  examining  the  mines  near 
Dubuques,  which  are  not  generally  so  rich  in  lead  as 
those  hitherto  found  on  the  opposite  shore,  towards  Ga- 
lena. However  the  whole  country  in  the  neighbourhood 
•contains  mineral,  and  I have  no  doubt  that  diggings  at  a 
little  distance  from  the  town  will  be  productive  of  great 
profits  ; at  all  events,  it  will  be,  in  my  opinion,  a greater 
and  more  populous  town  than  Galena  ever  will  become. 

The  next  day  being  Sunday,  I attended  religious  ser- 
vice, which  was  performed  in  a small  low  room,  scarcely 
capable  of  containing  a hundred  persons.  The  minister 
was  a pale,  ascetic,  sallow  looking  man,  and  delivered  a 
lecture  dull  and  sombre  as  his  countenance.  However, 
it  was  pleasant  to  see  even  this  small  assemblage,  who 
thought  of  divine  worship  in  such  a place  as  Dubuques. 
In  the  evening,  there  was  more  drunkenness  and  noise 
than  usual  about  the  bar,  and  one  young  man  was  pointed 
out  to  me  as  “ the  bully”  par  excellence.  He  was  a tall 
stout  fellow,  on  whose  countenance  the  evil  passions  had 
already  set  their  indelible  seal.  He  was  said  to  be  a 


TOMB  OF  DUBUQUES. 


Ill 


great  boxer,  and  had  stabbed  two  or  three  men  with  his 
dirk  during  the  last  ten  days.  He  had  two  companions 
with  him,  who  acted,  I suppose,  as  myrmidons  in  his 
brawls.  When  he  first  entered,  I was  sitting  in  the  bar 
reading ; he  desired  me  in  a harsh  imperative  tone,  to 
move  out  of  the  way,  as  he  wanted  to  get  something  to 
drink.  There  was  plenty  of  room  for  him  to  go  round 
my  chair,  without  disturbing  me  ; so  I told  him  to  go 
round  if  he  wished  a dram.  He  looked  somewhat  sur- 
prised, but  he  went  round,  and  I resumed  my  book. — 
Then  it  was  that  the  landlord  whispered  to  me  the  par- 
ticulars respecting  him  as  given  above.  I confess,  I 
almost  wished  that  he  would  insult  me,  that  I might  try 
to  break  his  head  with  my  good  cudgel,  which  was  at 
hand,  so  incensed  and  disgusted  was  T at  finding  myself 
in  the  company  of  such  a villain.  However,  he  soon 
after  left  the  room,  and  gave  me  no  chance  either  of 
cracking  his  crown,  or,  what  is  much  more  probable,  of 
getting  five  or  six  inches  of  his  dirk  into  my  body. 

I could  not  resist  laughing  at  the  absurdity  of  one  of 
his  companions,  who  was  very  drunk,  and  finding  that 
his  head  was  burning  from  the  quantity  of  whiskey  that 
he  had  swallowed,  an  idea  came  into  it  that  would  never 
have  entered  into  the  head  of  any  man  except  an  Irish- 
man, or  a Kentuckian  : he  fancied  that  his  hat  was  hot, 
and  occasioned  the  sensation  above  mentioned  ; accord- 
ingly, he  would  not  be  satisfied  till  the  landlord  put  it  into 
a tub  of  cold  water,  and  filled  it;  he  then  desired  it 
might  be  soaked  there  till  morning,  and  left  the  house 
contented  and  bare-headed. 

I was  obliged  to  remain  here  yet  another  day,  as  no 
steam-boat  appeared.  At  length  the  Warrior  touched, 
and  took  us  off  to  Galena.  We  stopped  a short  time  at 
a large  smelting  establishment,  a mile  or  two  below  the 
town  : on  a high  bluff  which  overlooks  it  is  the  tomb  of 
Dubuques,  a Spanish  miner,  from  whom  the  place  derives 
its  name.  The  spot  is  marked  by  a cross,  and  I clambered 
up  to  see  it.  With  a disregard  of  sepulchral  sanctity, 
which  I have  before  noticed  as  being  too  prevalent  in 
America,  I found  that  it  had  been  broken  down  in  one 
or  two  places;  I picked  up  the  skull  and  some  other 


112 


MEAN  EXTORTION. 


bones.  The  grave  had  been  built  of  brick,  and  had  ora 
one  side  a stone  slab,  bearing  a simple  Latin  inscription, 
announcing  that  the  tenant  had  come  from  the  Spanish 
mines,  and  giving  the  usual  data  respecting  his  age,  birth, 
death,  &c.  The  view  from  this  bold  high  bluff  is  very 
fine,  but  unfortunately  the  day  on  which  I visited  it  was 
cloudy. 

At  Galena  I was  much  gratified  to  find  that  Mr.  F., 
the  geologist  to  the  United  States,  was  coming  on  board  ; 
and  being  joined  by  my  servant  and  baggage,  we  pro- 
ceeded on  our  descent  of  the  river.  I found  that  Mr. 
F.,  whose  acquaintance  I had  made  the  year  before  in 
Washington,  had  just  returned  from  an  excursion  in  the 
Upper  Mississippi,  and  the  head-waters  of  the  St.  Pe- 
ter’s river,  during  which  he  had  been  some  time  among 
the  Yanctons  (a  band  of  the  great  Sioux  tribe.)  We 
reached  St.  Louis  fortunately,  and  only  bumped  the  keel 
of  our  boat  three  or  four  times  on  the  rocks,  among  the 
rapids  ; but  nothing  worthy  of  notice  occurred,  except 
one  little  ciicumstance  illustrative  of  character,  no  trait 
of  which  should  ever  be  lost  in  traversing  a country. 

It  is  well  known  that  in  America,  especially  in  the 
west  of  it,  a white  servant  is  a being  not  understood  ; 
and  in  travelling  you  will  be  asked,  whether  you  pay  for 
the  gentleman  who  is  with  you  ? or,  whether  you  settle 
your  friend’s  account  ? Consequently,  I have  met  with 
some  difficulty  in  regard  to  the  charges  made  for  my 
servant  in  the  western  steam-boats  ; in  some  I have  been 
obliged  to  pay  the  full,  in  others,  half  price.  Accord- 
ingly, before  bringing  him  on  board,  I explained  to  the 
captain,  that,  though  a white  man,  he  was  my  domestic, 
and  inquired  upon  what  terms  he  would  take  him. — 
After  the  usual  arrangements  about  his  eating  and  sleep- 
ing, the  former  of  which  he  was  to  partake  of  after  the 
cabin  passengers,  he  agreed  (in  the  hearing  of  a friend  of 
mine)  to  take  him  for  half  price.  A few  hours  before 
reaching  St.  Louis,  where  the  fares  were  paid,  he  de- 
manded the  whole  fare  the  same  as  I paid  for  myself. — 
I reminded  him  of  his  own  agreement  ; however,  the 
few  dollars  which  he  was  to  gain,  were  of  higher  value 
in  his  estimation  than  his  word,  and  he  insisted  upon  tho 


MEAN  EXTORTION. 


113 


whole  fare.  Among  other  mean  subterfuges,  he  pre- 
tended that  he  had  not  known  the  man  by  sight.  The 
captain  had  dined,  not  as  usual,  with  the  passengers,  but 
after  them,  with  the  mate,  pilot,  engineers,  &c.,  and  my 
man  had  dined  with  them  as  agreed  upon  between  us; 
but  now  this  liberal  republican  added  “ That  if  he  had 
known  him  to  be  my  servant,  he  would  not  have  sat  at 
the  table  with  him.”  I could  scarcely  help  laughing  in 
his  face  at  the  aristocracy  of  his  steam-boat  captainship. 
However,  I told  him  quietly,  that,  during  my  tour  in  the 
West,  I had  generally  sat  at  the  same  table  as  my  ser- 
vant, and  that  I would  just  as  soon  sit  by  him  as  by  his 
illustrious  self. 

I might,  doubtless,  have  resisted  this  payment ; but  I 
had  no  wish,  for  the  sake  of  four  or  five  dollars,  to  get 
into  a law-suit,  which  might  detain  me  two  or  three 
months  in  St.  Louis ; so  I paid  the  sum  demanded  by 
the  captain,  (who,  by  the  by,  was  a smartly  dressed 
young  gentleman , much  more  fit  to  play  the  part  of  a 
tavern  beau  than  master  of  a vessel,)  and  added  a word 
of  advice,  that  the  next  time  he  made  an  agreement,  he 
had  better  keep  to  it.  I have  little  doubt  but  that  this 
sage  counsel  shared  the  usual  fate  of  admonition,  which, 
however  self-evidently  just  and  wise  it  may  be,  is  gene- 
rally postponed  to  any  agreeable  temptation  from  within 
or  from  without;  the  naivete  of  the  French  girl  in  the 
song  illustrates  it  admirably  : — 

“ Je  croirai  ce  que  dit  Maman, 

Je  ferai  ce  que  dit  Colin.” 


K’ 


114 


SOCIETY  OF  ST.  LOFIS. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


Society  of  St.  Louis. — A Ball. — The  Waltz. — Musical  Accomplish- 
ments of  my  Hostess. — Independent  Hack-driver. — Singular  Charac- 
ter.— Leave  St.  Louis. — Travelling  Party. — Embark  in  “ The  Far 
West.” — Icy  Obstructions  in  the  River. — Visit  to  our  Friends  at  the 
Arsenal. — Irish  in  America. — Mishaps. — Ignorant  Pilot. — Mouth  of 
the  Ohio. — Shores  of  the  Mississippi. — Mouth  of  the  Arkansas. — 
Change  of  Climate. — Vicksburgh. — Big  Black  Creek. — Natchez. — 
Comfortable  Assurance. — Miserable  Road. — The  Upper  Town. — 
Public  Buildings. — The  Theatre. — The  Audience. — The  Perform- 
ance.— Drunken  Indians. — Leave  Natchez. — Mouth  of  Red  River. — 
December  Scenery  and  Temperature. — New  Orleans. 

On  arriving  at  St.  Louis,  which  is,  as  I remarked  be- 
fore, the  worst  town  of  its  size  in  the  world  for  lodging 
accommodations,  I considered  myself  fortunate  in  getting 

a room  with  two  beds  for  Mr.  F and  myself.  By 

great  exertion  on  the  part  of  my  servant,  we  got  a table 
and  some  chairs  into  it,  so  that  we  could  write  or  read  in 
peace  and  quiet.  I must,  however,  add,  injustice  to  the 
landlord  of  the  National  Hotel-,  that  he  did  every  thing 
in  his  power  to  render  his  uncomfortable  house  agreeable 
to  his  guests.  During  my  stay  in  St.  Louis  on  this  oc- 
casion, I saw  more  of  the  society  both  of  the  town  and 
neighbourhood  than  I had  before  seen,  and  I spent  some 
very  pleasant  evenings  in  the  families  of  the  commanders, 
both  of  the  garrison  at  Leavenworth  and  the  arsenal ; 
moreover,  I found  my  friend,  Mr.  Nichollet,  who  joins 
to  his  well-known  acquirements  in  the  higher  branches 
of  mathematical  science,  an  exquisite  taste  for  music,  as 
well  as  a profound  knowledge  of  it.  Two  French  gen- 
tlemen in  the  town,  who  were  also  amateurs,  opened 
their  houses  for  a small  musical  soiree , three  days  in  the 
week.  One  of  these  gentlemen  played  very  well  on  the 
violin,  and  we  had  two  professors  of  the  piano-forte,  one 
Italian,  the  other  German  > so  that  our  evenings  passed 
most  agreeably. 


A BALL. — THE  WALTZ. 


115 


My  friend  V had  declared  his  intention  of  going 

to  New  Orleans,  when  I turned  my  steps  northward  ; 
but  letters  from  Germany  had  altered  his  intention,  and 
I was  delighted  to  meet  again  my  old  Pawnee  compa- 
nion.  He  sang  German  songs  very  well,  especially  those 
Tyrolese  ugling  airs,  which  the  Rainer  family  rendered 
so  popular  in  England  ; and  an  occasional  Scotch  song 
was  extracted  from  me,  which  was  forgiven,  because  I 
was  a Scotchman  ! 

A ball  was  given  at  our  hotel  ; I attended  it,  but  was 
told  that  it  did  not  include  the  “ elite  of  the  town.” 
There  were  some  pretty  girls,  and  they  danced  with 
great  spirit,  but  jumped  too  much  for  a cotillon.  The 
beaux  capered  away  lustily  ; and  although  some  of  them 
indulged  in  strange  contortions  of  the  body,  and  in  move- 
ments both  of  the  foot  and  arm,  which  were  intended  to 
display  both  activity  and  grace,  the  party  was  conducted 
with  propriety  and  decorum,  and  J have  seen  many  gayer 
assemblies  composed  of  much. less  happy  faces. 

It  must,  however,  be  confessed,  that  it  requires  no 
small  fortitude  to  endure  the  sight  of  the  dance,  which  is 
meant  to  represent  the  waltz  in  provincial  towns  in  Ame- 
rica. It  is  bad  enough  throughout  England,  except  the 
best  circles  in  London,  and  not  excepting  Edinburgh  : 
but  here  it  is  even  worse  ; no  imagination  can  conceive 
the  rolling,  the  swinging,  the  strange  undulations  of  the 
rotary  pair;  they  frequently  hold  each  other  only  by 
one  hand,  and  the  lady  places  her  idle  hand  on  her  waist, 
while  the  gentleman  flourishes  his  gracefully  either  above 
his  own  or  his  partner’s  head,  or  assigns  to  it  some  rest- 
ing-place no  less  extraordinary  than  its  movements.  In 
some  circles  in  the  south,  elbow  waltzing  alone  is  per- 
mitted ; the  lady’s  waist  is  forbidden  ground,  and  the 
gentlemen  is  compelled  to  hold  her  by  the  points  of  the 
elbows,  it  having  been  held  indecorous  by  these  Pre- 
cituses  ridicules , 

“ That  Waltz,  that  rake  from  foreign  lands, 

Should  dare,  in  sight  of  all  beholders, 

To  lay  his  rude  licentious  hands 

Un  virtuous  damsels'  backs  and  shoulders.” 


Moore. 


116 


THE  WALTZ. 


What  miserable  nonsense  is  often  talked  and  written 
on  this  subject ! as  if  amorous  or  improper  advances 
cannot  be  made  as  well  by  a pressure  of  the  hand,  or  a 
squeeze  of  the  arm,  as  by  encircling  the  waist,  if  one 
party  dares  to  make,  and  the  other  is  willing  to  receive 
them.  It  is  an  exact  parallel  to  Mad.  de  Stael’s  rebuke 
of  some  female’s  observation  on  the  indecency  of  ex- 
posing a naked  statue  to  view  in  the  Louvre — “ The  in- 
decency is  not  in  the  statue,  but  in  the  remark.”  I can 
understand  a father  or  a brother  objecting  to  a young 
girl’s  waltzing,  though  I differ  from  them  in  opinion  ; 
nay,  I would  respect  a young  lady,  who,  from  a shrink- 
ing delicacy  of  character,  refused  to  waltz  at  all ; but 
when  the  answer  is,  “ You  must  hold  me  by  the  el- 
bows,” or,  “ I only  waltz  with  married  men,” — Heaven 
preserve  us  from  such  humbug  and  prudery  ! 

During  my  stay  in  St.  Louis,  I went  several  times 
down  to  the  arsenal,  where  the  amiable  manners,  unaf- 
fected bonhommie , and  musical  accomplishments  of  the 
fair  hostess,  “ imped  feathers  to  the  wings  of  Time.”  It 
was  delightful,  in  Missouri,  to  hear  the  beautiful  compo- 
sitions of  J.  Cramer,  Herz,  and  Beethoven,  played  with 
a taste,  feeling,  and  execution  that  would  not  have  been 
lightly  esteemed  on  the  banks  of  the  Thames,  the  Seine, 
or  the  Rhine;  and  my  national  prejudices  were  gratified 
that  Mrs.  S n’s  mother  (and  teacher)  had  been  a na- 

tive of  Scotland. 

One  evening  I remained  there  with  one  or  two  friends, 
rather  later  than  it  suited  the  convenience  of  the  hack- 
driver  to  remain  ; and  when  we  inquired  for  our  carriage, 
it  had  been  gone  two  hours.  We  were  obliged  to  tres- 
pass for  the  night  on  the  captain’s  hospitality.  It  snowed 
very  heavily  for  twelve  hours;  and  on  returning  to  St. 
Louis  next  day,  we  learned  that  our  independent  driver 
of  the  preceding  evening  had  overturned  his  carriage,  and 
fractured  his  leg  in  two  or  three  places. 

At  the  little  village  of  Carondelet,  or  Yuides-poches, 

I went  to  visit  a strange  old  man,  of  whom  I had  heard 
frequent  mention.  As  his  name  was  Leichendorfer,  I 
concluded  he  must  be  German  ; but  he  answered  me  in 
such  a strange  patois  of  that  language,  that  I was  soon 


SINGULAR  CHARACTER. 


117 


convinced  of  my  error.  Upon  cross-examining  him,  I 
discovered  that  he  was  from  the  Italian  side  of  the  Tyrol, 
and  that  his  real  name  was  Santuario,  and  the  rest  of 
the  conversation  was  carried  on  in  that  language,  which 
he  spoke  with  tolerable  accuracy  and  fluency.  He  boasts 
of  speaking  German,  French,  Spanish,  Turkish,  Eng- 
lish, &c.,  all  equally  well.  From  the  specimen  I had 
heard  of  the  first,  I have  no  doubt  that  his  claims  are 
well  founded  ! He  was  among  the  sharp-shooters  in  the 
Austrian  army  at  Marengo,  and  still  hates  Bonaparte 
with  laudable  patriotism.  He  was  some  years  at  Con- 
stantinople, then  he  went  to  Egypt,  and  contrived  to  ren- 
der the  Pacha  some  services  in  Arabia  ; after  w’hich  he 
w7as  employed  by  General  Eaton,  to  assist  in  his  expe- 
dition against  the  Bey  of  Tripoli,  and  was  instrumental 
in  restoring  his  brother  the  ex-Bey  ; for  this  he  was 
made  a colonel  in  the  United  States  army,  and  lives  now 
upon  the  proceeds  of  some  land  and  an  orchard,  which  he 
bought  with  the  money  gained  by  his  services.  He  is 
a strangely  prejudiced  old  man,  but  with  a fine  face,  and 
the  remains  of  a very  athletic  frame.  He  has  had,  and 
I believe  has  still,  several  wives  in  the  various  countries 
which  he  has  inhabited,  and  owns  to  twenty-seven  chil- 
dren. He  is  very  busy  writing  his  life,  and  preparing  it 
for  publication  : if  his  brain  is  as  prolific  as  his  person, 
and  his  pen  bears  any  proportion  to  his  tongue,  the  wrorld 
may  expect  soon  to  see  the  work  appear  in  twenty-seven 
volunaes. 

St.  Louis  is  certainly  one  of  the  least  social  and  hos- 
pitable places  that  I have  seen  in  the  United  States;  ne- 
vertheless, there  are  some  exceptions  to  this  (as  to  every 
general)  proposition. 

I now  prepared  to  leave  the  town  with  much  regret. 
The  frost  had  set  in  with  considerable  severity ; and 
large  floating  masses  of  ice  were  scattered  so  thickly  on 
the  bosom  of  the  w'ater,  that  the  navigation  of  the  river 
became  every  day  more  difficult  and  dangerous.  I was 
anxious  to  get  as  soon  as  possible  to  New  Orleans,  be- 
cause I had  desired  all  my  European  and  other  letters 
to  be  sent  thither  to  wait  my  arrival. 

I was  fortunate  enough  to  be  able  to  collect  a very 


118 


RETURN  TO  THE  ARSENAL. 


pleasant  little  party,  and  we  agreed  to  embark  and  keep 

together : it  consisted  of  Captain  S , a cousin  and 

old  acquaintance  of  mine  in  Scotland,  who  had  been 
above  two  years  among  the  Indians,  in  and  beyond  the 

Rocky  Mountains  ; my  friend  V — — , and  a Dr.  W 

also  from  Scotland,  a lively  and  well-informed  compan- 
ion. We  took  our  passage  on  board  of  “ The  Far  West,” 
Captain  Fox;  her  machinery  had  been  newly  put  in, 
and,  although  several  parts  of  it  were  rather  loose  and 
out  of  order,  the  boilers  were  strong,  and  the  cabin-berths, 
&c.,  remarkably  neat  and  cleanly. 

We  embarked  on  the  29th  of  November,  and  were 
obliged  to  cross  the  river  to  the  Illinois  side,  in  order  to 
take  in  some  freight.  On  the  following  day  the  ice  ran 
so  heavy  and  thick,  that  the  captain  dared  not  attempt 
to  descend  the  river,  and  with  much  difficulty  regained 
the  landing  at  St.  Louis,  Here  we  were  obliged  to  lie 
two  days.  The  committee  of  insurance  came  down  and 
warned  the  captain,  that,  if  he  started  while  the  ice  was 
so  dangerous,  he  must  do  it  at  his  own  risk  ; and  we  be- 
gan to  entertain  serious  apprehensions  that  the  river 
w’ould  close  up,  and  we  should  be  shut  in  for  the  season. 
However,  the  weather  changed  ; and  on  the  afternoon 
of  the  2d  of  December,  we  got  off,  and  went  down  as 
far  as  Vuides-poches,  about  six  miles.  It  was  a bright 
moon,  and  a fine  frosty  night,  so  V and  I determin- 

ed to  gallop  off  to  the  arsenal,  and  spend  one  pleasant 

hour  more  with  Captain  8 and  his  agreeable  lady. 

The  landlord  of  the  tavern,  a good-natured  Irishman, 
lent  us  a couple  of  horses,  and  we  set  off  at  full  speed 
over  the  snowy  slippery  road.  As  it  was  only  four  miles, 
we  were  soon  at  our  journey’s  end  ; and  the  astonish- 
ment of  our  friends  at  our  appearance  was  not  small,  as  I 
they  thought  us  half-way  to  New  Orleans.  They  re- 
ceived us  with  their  usual  kind  hospitality  ; my  ears  got 
another  Cramer  feast,  and  our  amiable  hostess  prepared 
a bowl  of  egg-nogg,  which  was  to  serve  as  a “ diachin 
dhorrish and  to  fortify  us  against  the  night  air. 

Bidding  them  another  adieu,  we  returned  to  Vuides- 
poches,  and  went  on  board  about  midnight.  Our  land-  j 
lord  gave  me  a bottle  of  Irish  whiskey,  and  would  not  ) 


MISHAPS. 


119 


accept  of  a farthing  either  for  that  or  for  the  use  of  his 
horses.  How  grieved  I am,  that  the  Irish  people  tar- 
nish the  generous  and  noble  qualities  which  they  really 
do  possess,  by  the  violence  and  lawlessness  of  their 
habits  ! In  explanation  of  this  well-known  fact,  we  are 
always  told  that  it  is  owing  entirely  to  the  oppression 
and  misgovernment  of  the  English.  It  may  b q partly 
so,  but  no  more.  The  Irish  in  America — in  every  state 
from  Maine  to  Louisiana,  where  they  are  certainly  not 
oppressed,  and  are  free  from  tithes,  from  heavy  taxes, 
from  ecclesiastical  burthens,  from  want,  in  short,  from 
every  subject  of  complaint  and  grievance  in  Ireland,  are 
still  the  most  improvident,  quarrelsome,  turbulent  popu- 
lation on  this  continent. 

Nature  has  been  liberal  to  Ireland  in  her  soil  and  cli- 
mate ; she  has  endowed  its  inhabitants  wilh  humour, 
readiness  both  of  conception  and  language,  bravery  and 
generosity ; but  she  seems  to  have  been  less  liberal  in 
providing  them  with  judgment  and  a just  moral  sense,  the 
absence  of  which  qualities,  impairs  or  perverts  the 
above  endowments. 

On  the  following  day,  December  3d,  we  met  with  no 
accident ; but  were  obliged  to  go  very  slowly,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  thick  and  heavy  masses  of  ice  which  co- 
vered the  river.  On  the  4th,  however,  our  misfortunes 
began.  We  ran  on  a sand-bar  at  nine  o’clock,  a.  m.,  but 
got  off  again  in  an  hour;  at  eleven  we  ran  aground 
again  and  stuck  fast  till  three  p.  m.  We  grounded  again 
soon  after  dusk,  and  floated  off  about  nine,  without  hav- 
ing any  wood  on  board  ; and  we  had  to  drop  down  with 
the  stream  at  considerable  risk,  for  two  or  three  miles, 
when  we  reached  a wood-yard. 

5th. — WTe  soon  found  that  the  pilot  either  knew  no- 
thing of  his  business,  or  that  he  ran  us  aground  on  pur- 
pose; or  else  that  the  heavy  descent  of  ice  had  al- 
tered the  channel,  and  created  new  banks  of  mud  or  sand. 
We  ran  on  a bar  at  nine  a.  m.,  and  remained  there  all 
day.  Several  boats  passed  us  : I went  on  board  one 
with  our  captain,  to  request  her  assistance  in  hauling  us 
off ; her  captain,  however,  was  deaf  to  entreaties,  and 
even  to  liberal  offers  of  payment.  To  complete  our  ill- 


120 


IGNORANT  PILOT. 


luck,  the  yawl  in  which  we  had  boarded  this  boat  (“  The 
G.  Clark,”)  was  knocked  under  her  wheel  and  swamped, 
not  half  a minute  after  we  had  jumped  out  of  her.  She 
was  held  on  by  the  painter ; but  we  lost  all  our  oars, 
and  two  or  three  of  the  men’s  jackets.  We  had  to  bail 
her  out  with  buckets,  and  with  much  labour  towed 
her,  half  full  of  water,  behind  “ The  G.  Clark’s  ” yawl, 
back  to  “The  Far  West.”  “The  G.  Clark”  and  her 
obliging  captain  then  went  off,  leaving  us  in  what  might 
be  called  down-east,  a “ particular  considerable  unhand- 
some fix.” 

We  contrived  in  a few  hours  to  rig  a couple  of  clumsy 
sweeps,  baled  out  the  yawl,  and  kedged  our  anchor,  with 
the  aid  of  which  we  hauled  off  the  bar ; and  once  more 
afloat,  went  down  two  or  three  miles  to  a wood-yard, 
where  we  lay-to  for  the  night.  We  now  thought  that 
our  troubles  were  over,  as  we  had  got  through  the  worst 
of  the  ice  ; but,  on  the  following  day  (the  6th),  at  half 
past  eight,  we  ran  on  a bar  near  a place  called  Devil’s 
Island.  Here,  I almost  believed  that  the  gentleman  in 
black  had  possessed  our  pilot ; for  he  ran  our  boat  right 
on  a sand-bank,  which  a schoolboy  might  have  seen  and 
avoided,  inasmuch  as  there  was  a great  log  of  wood  and 
a quantity  of  drifted  ice  lying  upon  it.  We  were  going 
ten  or  twelve  miles  an  hour,  and  the  boat  bounded, 
jumped,  and  made  every  exertion  to  get  over,  but  in  vain  ; 
her  plunging  only  lodged  her  the  deeper,  and  we,  draw- 
ing five  and  a half  feet,  lay  comfortably  imbedded  in  mud 
and  sand,  with  only  three  feet  and  a half  of  water. 

We  remained  here  several  hours;  it  was  impossible 
to  drag  her  off  by  her  anchor,  and  I began  to  fear  that 
her  fate  was  sealed,  and  that  we  (the  passengers)  must 
leave  her  by  the  first  boat  that  passed.  I was  really 
grieved  at  this  ; for  our  captain  was  a most  good-natur- 
ed obliging  man  : it  was  his  first  trip  since  the  complete 
refitting  of  his  boat;  and  if  she  lay  here  long  with  her 
broadside  exposed  to  the  huge  masses  of  ice  that  come 
down  the  river  at  this  season,  she  must  have  gone  to 
pieces  in  a few  weeks. 

After  a few  hours,  a small  steamer,  named  “ The  In- 
dian,” hove  in  sight : we  hailed  her,  and  she  came  along- 


MOUTH  OF  TriE  OHIO* 


121 


side.  Our  captain  agreed  to  give  four  hundred  dollars 
if  she  would  take  some  of  our  freight  and  tow  us  off  the 
bar : after  much  time  and  trouble,  she  did  so ; and  as 
soon  as  we  floated,  she  went  off  down  the  channel,  ex- 
pecting us  to  follow  immediately  : we  endeavoured  to  do 
so,  but  something  went  wrong  in  the  machinery,  and  we 
could  not  make  the  right  course  : consequently  we  drop- 
ped down  again  upon  the  bank  and  became  imbedded  as 
fast  or  faster  than  ever. 

The  little  “ Indian,”  though  out  of  sight,  soon  missed 
us  and  returned  ; and,  in  order  to  obtain  her  farther  as- 
sistance to  get  us  off,  our  poor  captain  was  obliged  to 
give  a thousand  instead  of  four  hundred  dollars.  Not- 
withstanding the  united  efforts  of  the  passengers  and  both 
crews,  we  lay  there  all  the  next  day;  but  about  eight 
o’clock  on  the  8th  instant,  having  put  all  our  freight  on 
board  “ The  Indian,”  which  was  fortunately  empty,  we 
got  off  and  made  good  our  passage  through  this  difficult 
channel.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  found  “ The  In- 
dian ” anchored  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  having  broken 
her  paddles  and  otherwise  injured  her  machinery  : we 
took  her  in  tow  and  brought  her  ashore  ; for  which  I 
trust  our  captain  obtained  some  diminution  of  the  enor- 
mous sum  which  she  had  exacted  from  him.  We  reach- 
ed the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  without  farther  accident  or 
difficulty ; but  the  machinery  was  not  in  perfect  order, 
owing  to  the  illness  of  the  engineer,  who  could  not  leave 
his  bed. 

There  are  several  places  on  the  Mississippi  which  are 
already  increasing  rapidly  in  population  and  wealth,  be- 
tween St.  Louis  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  ; as  for  in- 
stance, Herculaneum,  thirty-five  miles  below  St.  Louis* 
and  St.  Genevieve,  about  sixty-five.  The  view  of  the 
junction  of  these  two  great  rivers  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  specimens  of  fresh-water  scenery  that  ever  I 
beheld  ; so  great  is  the  extent,  and  so  prettily  is  it  in- 
dented with  points  and  promontories  covered  with  noble 
timber.  After  leaving  the  Ohio,  the  first  town  of  any 
importance  that  we  reached  was  Memphis,  in  Tennes- 
see ; but  we  could  see  nothing  of  it,  owing  to  the  high 
banks  which  intercept  it  from  the  river.  1 am  told  it  is 
Vol.  II.— L 


122 


CHANGE  OF  CLIMATE. 


prettily  situated.  The  shores  of  the  Mississippi  are  very 
monotonous  for  several  hundred  miles,  presenting  nothing 
but  a constant  succession  of  dreary  cotton-wood  timber, 
w hich  at  this  season  would  look  miserably  gloomy,  were 
it  not  somewhat  relieved  by  the  green  undergrowth  of 
cane,  and  an  occasional  log-hut  and  corn-field. 

On  the  evening  of  the  flth*  we  passed  the  mouth  of 
the  Arkansas,  the  third  tributary  of  the  Mississippi  in 
point  of  size  : it  rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  probably 
fifteen  hundred  or  two  thousand  miles  from  its  junction 
with  the  great  river,  where,  by  the  by,  it  is  much  nar- 
rower than  I expected  to  see  it,  as  it  does  not  appear  to 
me  more  than  four  hundred  yards  broad  ; but.  it  was 
nearly  .dusk  when  I passed  it,  so  I may  be  mistaken  in 
regard  to  its  width.  1 had  never  seen  its  w aters  before, 
but  I had  been  within  sight  of  the  timber  on  its  banks 
during  my  excursion  among  the  Pawnees. 

On  the  12th  instant,  w*e  began  to  find  a very  percep- 
tible difference,  both  in  the  climate  and  in  the  vegetation  ; 
the  chilling  breath  of  winter  had  not  marred  the  verdure, 
at  least  the  mantle  of  nature  w as  not  rudely  lorn  off  from 
the  forest,  although  its  green  wras  changed  to  varying  au- 
tumnal tints  of  red  and  brownish  hue.  The  white  and 
red  oak,  which  line  the  banks  of  the  Upper  Mississippi, 
had  disappeared,  and  were  replaced  by  the  cotton-wood 
and  other  species  of  poplar,  the  sycamore,  the  several 
kinds  of  gum,  and  the  cypress  ; while  in  places  where 
the  banks  had  obtained  greater  elevation,  the  feathering 
outline  of  the  pine  towered  above  the  rich  and  verdant 
foliage  of  the  magnolia.  Nor  was  the  change  in  the 
plants  of  humble  growth  less  discernible  : the  fertile  al- 
luvium of  the  valley  was  now  laden  with  the  graceful 
cane,  still  fresh  and  green  ; and  where  the  hand  of  man 
had  destroyed  the  natural  produce  of  the  soil,  large  fields 

* I heard  this  day  a west-country  phrase  that  was  perfectly  new  to 
me.  and  from  its  quaintness  seems  worthy  of  record.  The  captain 
went  ashore  at  a wood-yard  ; and,  on  entering  the  log-hut,  the  house- 
wife, a woman  about  thirty-five,  seemed  to  recognize  bis  features  (they 
had  once  lived  in  the  Eame  neighbourhood),  and  she  addressed  him  thus 
— “ Why,  you  ar’nt  Wilson  1”  He  answered,  “ No,  madam  ; my  name 
i*  Fox.”  She  replied  (holding  out  her  hand  to  him  in  the  most  friendly 
manner),  u Why,  Fox,  consam  your  old  skin  ! is  that  you  !” 


BIG  BLACK  CREEK. 


123 


oT  cotton,  now  ripe  for  palling,  seemed  as  if  they  were 
speckled  with  innumerable  snow-flakes. 

Nor  are  the  houses  of  the  settlers  less  distinct  in  their 
character  from  those  of  the  northern  region  ; for  where- 
as the  latter  were  chiefly  composed  of  rough  logs,  those 
of  the  former  are  built  of  neat  frame-work,  frequently 
painted  white,  and  surrounded  by  ten,  fifteen,  or  twenty 
negro  cabins,  according  to  the  size  and  produce  of  the 
plantation.  I am  not  aware  that  I ever  experienced  so 
strange  and  pleasurable  a sensation  through  mere  change 
of  place,  as  in  this  descent  of  the  Mississippi  in  the  month 
of  “ dark  December  it  is  as  if  one  had  been  endowed 
with  the  power,  not  only  of  arresting,  but  of  reversing, 
the  march  of  the  year,  and  of  making  the  soft  and  balmy 
air  of  summer  succeed  the  cold  and  gloom  of  early 
winter — as  if  old  age  had  been  permitted  to  renew  the 
vigour  and  freshness  of  youth,  to 

“ Forget  his  years,  and  act  again  the  boy  !!* 

On  the  night  of  the  12th  we  reached  Vicksburgh,  and 
I regretted  very  much  that  I no  opportunity  of  visiting 
it.  It  is  a young  town,  pleasantly  situated  upon  a gentle 
declivity,  forming  the  base  of  the  Walnut  Hills,  which 
rise  above  it  gradually  to  the  height  of  five  or  six  hun- 
dred feet,  forming  one  of  the  prettiest  prospects  in  the 
course  of  the  Lower  Mississippi.  This  town  possesses 
a neat  little  harbour,  w’hence  a quantity  of  cotton  is 
shipped  to  New  Orleans.  It  obtained  considerable  no- 
toriety last  summer,  by  becoming  the  principal  scene  of 
the  outrages  committed  under  the  name  of  Lynch  law  ; 
of  which  I gave  an  account  in  some  remarks  which  I 
made  at  Dubuques. 

On  dhe  morning  of  the  13th,  we  came  to  the  most 
beautiful  scene  I had  beheld  since  we  left  St.  Louis. 
The  place  is  called  Big  Black  Creek,  or  Grand  Gulf. 
The  river  here  makes  a great  bend,  and  runs  almost  in 
a north-easterly  direction ; after  which,  making  its  way 
under  some  bold  and  wooded  heights,  it  resumes  its 
natural  southerly  course.  Just  at  the  corner  made  by 
this  sweep,  is  situated  a neat  little  village,  on  a gentle 
declivity  toward  the  water’s  edge  ; on  each  side  of  it  are 


124 


NATCHEZ. 


two  smiling  valleys,  and  the  undulating  hills  by  which 
they  are  formed  and  crowned,  were  covered  with  gum 
trees,  pine,  and  magnolia.  The  river  here  hears  the  ap- 
pearance of  a large  inland  lake,  and  reminded  me  strongly 
of  some  of  the  scenes  in  Cumberland. 

In  the  evening  we  reached  Natchez  ; the  view  on  ap- 
proaching it  from  the  north  is  very  fine,  and  the  bold 
bluffs,  on  which  stands  the  upper  town,  were  all  tinged 
with  the  golden  beams  of  a setting  sun.  This  place  has 
been  often  described  ; and,  as  it  was  almost  dusk  before 
I was  able  to  get  ashore,  1 cannot  pretend  to  add  much 
to  what  is  well  known  regarding  it.  There  are  two 
towns,  Upper  and  Lower  Natchez;  of  which  the  former 
is  by  far  the  largest  and  the  most  respectable.  The 
lower  town,  containing  little  more  than  the  buildings 
which  necessarily  grow  up  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a 
harbour  where  much  shipping  business  is  done,  was  con- 
sidered, a few  years  ago,  as  the  most  abandoned  sink  of 
iniquity  in  the  whole  western  country.  It  was  the  re- 
sort of  the  lowest  and  most  profligate  wretches  of  both 
sexes ; and  gambling,  drinking,  robbery,  and  murder, 
were  the  daily  occupations  of  its  population.  But  the 
respectable  inhabitants  of  the  upper  town  assembled  last 
summer  in  considerable  force,  and,  under  the  authority 
of  Judge  Lynch,  and  with  threats  of  his  summary  justice 
(which  they  doubtless  would  have  fulfilled),  compelled 
some  hundreds  of  the  most  notorious  characters  to  leave 
the  place  at  a few  hours’  notice.  Their  memory  is  not 
yet  dead,  nor  has  the  lower  town,  though  much  improved, 
been  able  yet  to  acquire  a very  respectable  name. 

When  I landed  with  my  friend  V , and  inquired 

of  a quiet-looking  citizen  the  way  to  the  upper  town,  he 
concluded  his  directions  wdth  an  assurance  that  we  might 
go  up  without  any  risk  of  having  our  throats  cut  ! With 
this  encouraging  information  we  toiled  our  way  up  the 
most  miserable  muddy  road  that  I ever  beheld,  toward 
the  top  of  the  bluffs.  Numerous  drays  were  ascending 
and  descending,  most  of  which  were  up  to  or  over  the 
axle-tree,  in  the  pure,  unadulterated  clay,  of  which  the 
road  is  composed.  Has  it  never  struck  the  merchants  of 
Natchez,  that  in  one  year  they  would  save  as  much  in 


THE  THEATRE. 


125 


horse-flesh,  as  would  pay  for  the  expense  of  an  excellent 
pavement  ? But  in  these  western  cities  there  is  no 
combination — no  corporate  feeling — the  universal  motto 
is  “ every  man  for  himself.”  And  it  seems  as  if  they 
thought  that  money,  laid  out  in  works  of  improvement, 
of  which  others  might  share  with  them  the  convenience 
or  the  benefit,  was  thrown  away. 

The  upper  town  of  Natchez  is  pleasingly  situated 
upon  an  elevated  platform,  commanding  a fine  view  of 
the  serpentine  course  of  the  river  ; it  contains  several 
handsome  buildings,  and  some  streets  well  laid  out.  The 
inhabitants  have  had  the  good  taste  to  leave  many  rows 
of  trees  standing,  which  afford  an  agreeable  shade,  and 
add  to  the  freshness  and  cheerfulness  of  the  town  pros- 
pect. I saw  two  large  hotels  ; the  one  which  I entered 
to  take  some  refreshment  was  very  clean,  and  seemed  to 
be  in  the  hands  of  civil  obliging  people.  I passed  a 
church,  (I  believe  episcopal,)  which  seemed,  in  the 
doubtful  light  by  which  I viewed  it,  to  be  a neat  well- 
proportioned  specimen  of  the  Ionic  style.  There  is  also 
a very  good  Doric  facade  to  the  Agricultural  Bank.  The 
Masonic  Hall  is  a spacious  building,  but  cannot  pretend 
to  any  architectural  beauty.  Many  other  buildings  may 
be  deserving  of  notice,  which  I did  not  see,  the  night 
closed  in  soon  after  my  arrival,  and  I had  not  even  the 
advantage  of  moonlight.  There  are  many  handsome, 
well-supplied  shops ; but  the  streets  are  in  much  the 
same  condition,  in  regard  to  pavement,  as  those  of  the 
other  western  cities  : that  is  to  say,  if  you  choose  to 
walk  after  dark,  you  must  depend  upon  the  blue  vault 
above,  for  “ Nature’s  starry  lamps,”  and  take  your  chance 
of  spraining  your  ancle,  in  holes  and  broken  places  a 
foot  deep,  or  of  stepping  up  to  your  knees  into  a gutter, 
or  some  equally  agreeable  receptacle  of  mud.  The 
principle,  if  not  the  only,  article  of  trade  in  Natchez,  is 
cotton ; and  many  of  the  wealthier  merchants  reside  at 
villas,  prettily  situated  on  the  undulating  slopes  by  which 
the  town  is  surrounded. 

In  the  course  of  our  evening  ramble,  we  entered  the 
theatre,  not  so  much  as  faithful  disciples  of  Thespis,  as 
for  the  purpose  of  observing  the  dress,  manners,  and  ap- 

L* 


126 


AUDIENCE  AND  PERFORMANCE. 


pearance  of  the  citizens  and  citizenesses.  The  theatre 
is  of  middle  size,  and  not  remarkable  for  elegance  of 
decoration  ; the  same  may  be  said  of  the  stage  and 
scenery.  The  orchestra  was  certainly  very  good,  and 
the  various  interludes  played  between  the  acts  were  se- 
lected with  more  taste  than  is  usually  shown  in  such 
cases;  for,  instead  of  giving  vulgar  jigs  and  “dashing 
white  sergeants,”  or  the  opposite  extreme  of  slow  pieces 
of  music,  wanting  both  introduction  and  meaning,  (and 
generally  interrupted  by  the  bell,)  they  played  some  very 
graceful  and  new  German  waltzes.  The  ladies  in  the 
boxes  were  neatly  dressed,  without  any  pretension  or 
display  of  finery  : as  far  as  I could  judge  from  costume, 
there  were  only  three  or  four  French  women  in  the 
whole  circle.  The  men  were  in  the  usual  stocked  and 
cloaked  attire  of  Americans  in  the  evening  ; the  pit  was 
filled  with  noisy  merry  fellows,  and  the  gallery  was  in 
the  undisputed  possession  of  some  dozen  swarthy  god- 
desses, wearing  upon  their  heads  and  persons  all  the 
several  colours  which  nature  has  denied  as  ingredients 
in  their  complexion.  The  play  was  the  “Fatal  Mar- 
riage ; the  part  of  Isabella  by  a Mrs.  Clarke,  a fine~ 
looking  middle-aged  woman,  with  a pleasant  voice, 
though  not  powerful  enough  for  tragedy  ; she  had  a good 
figure,  and  good  arms,  and  Iter  movements  were  by  na 
means  ungraceful.  She  played  her  dreadful  part  with, 
considerable  energy  and  paihos,  and  though  one  or  twro 
points  might  have  raised  a sneer  from  some  of  the  “ sour 
hyper-critics  of  a King’s  Theatre  stage-box,”  I found 
much  more  in  her  acting  to  approve  than  to  condemn. — 
The  other  characters  were  feebly  supported,  and  the 
death  of  Byron  w7as  one  of  the  most  disgusting  scenes 
of  stage  butchery  that  I ever  beheld.  It  is  indeed  pos- 
sible, that  all  the  writhing,  contortion  of  body,  and  stif- 
fening of  joints  which  w'ere  displayed,  may  be  true  re- 
presentations- of  an  agonizing  death  ; but  in  scenes  over 
which  good  taste  and  decency  always  throw  a veil,  a 
detailed  and  faithful  representation  becomes  a trans- 
gression. 

The  dresses  used  on  the  stage  were  correct,  and  even 
splendid.  Altogether,  there  are  few  country  theatres  in 


DRUNKEN  INDIANS. — LEAVE  NATCHEZ. 


127 


England  which  would  gain  much  by  a comparison  with 
that  in  this  small  town,  which  (it  must  be  remembered) 
was,  a few  years  ago,  a wilderness. 

On  returning  towards  the  steam-boat,  I saw  with  grief 
two  or  three  Indians  completely  drunk,  rolling  in  the 
gutter,  and  affording  a butt  for  the  jokes,  gibes,  and 
even  blows  of  a dozen  vagabond  negro  boys.  I believe 
they  belonged  to  the  Chickasaw  tribe.  I know  not  why 
it  is,  but  there  is  no  human  being  (except  a woman)  that 
affects  me  with  such  inexpressible  pity  and  disgust,  when 
under  the  influence  of  liquor,  as  an  Indian.  I know  this 
is  unphilosophical,  because  it  certainly  is  a greater  dis- 
grace and  debasement  to  a while  man  ; — still,  I then  feel 
my  pity  lost  in  my  disgust ; while,  in  the  case  of  the  In- 
dian, (although  I have  lived  too  long  among  them  to  be- 
lieve any  more  tales  of  their  innocence,  simplicity,  &c.,) 
mv  fancy  fondly  clings  to  the  delusion  of  that  state, 
"When  wild  in  woods  the  noble  savage  ran.”  Thus, 
when  I see  him  grovelling  in  the  dirt,  with  a helpless 
body  and  a reeling  brain,  and  uttering  thick  and  half- 
choked  sounds,  which  no  ear  near  him  can  understand,  I 
cannot  help  thinking  we  have  done  this  ! — we,  who  boast 
of  our  civilization — we,  who  pretend  to  spread  abroad  the 
refinement  of  art  and  science,  and  the  purity  of  the  Gos- 
pel, among  the  nations — we  have  reduced  the  eagle  eye, 
the  active  limb,  the  stalely  form  of  our  red  brother,  to 
the  grovelling,  swinish  animal  which  I now  see  before 
me  ! Of  all  the  plunderers,  thieves,  and  land-sharks  on 
earth,  there  are  none  that  I more  detest,  none  that  will 
hereafter  have  a heavier  charge  against  them,  than  those 
settlers  and  traders  in  the  West  (whether  British  or  Ame- 
rican) who  cheat  the  Indians  of  three  hundred  per  cent, 
in  every  bargain,  by  making  whiskey  the  medium  of  pur- 
chase, knowing,  as  they  well  do,  that  it  leads  to  the  de- 
gradation, the  misery,  and,  ere  long,  the  extirpation  of 
the  ignorant  ar.d  unfortunate  purchasers. 

Leaving  Naichez  at  night,  (with  much  regret  that  I 
had  not  time  to  stay  there  a few  days,)  I went  on  board 
our  steamer,  and  we  ran  before  morning  past  the  mouth 
of  Red  river,  one  of  the  largest  western  tributaries  of  the- 
Mississippi  : it  rises,  I believe,  somewhere  not  far  from 


128 


ARRIVAL  AT  NEW  ORLEANS. 


Santa  Fe,  and  some  parts  of  the  valley  which  it  makes 
in  its  descent  are  very  fertile.  The  principal  town  situ- 
ated on  its  banks  is  Natchitoches,  which  is  two  hundred 
miles  from  its  embouchure.  Steam-boats  ply  thither  from 
New  Orleans. 

This  day,  the  14th,  we  came  into  a summer  country 
and  climate.  While  the  boat  stopped  to  take  in  fuel,  I 
went  ashore,  and,  walking  only  a few  hundred  yards  into 
the  woods,  stood  still  with  delighted  eye  and  ear  : all  was 
fresh  and  green,  the  canes  in  full  bloom  around  me; 
while  a few  birds  were  chirping  on  the  larger  trees,  and 
the  merry  woodpecker  was  knocking  his  sharp  beak 
against  the  bark  of  the  cotton-tree.  Even  while  writing 
these  notes,  the  door  of  my  state-room  was  open,  two  or 
three  flies  were  buzzing  in  it,  and  one  mosquito  paid  me 
a visit.  Before  me,  as  we  glided  smoothly  along,  was  an 
ever-varying  scene  of  forest  beauty,  now  and  then  reliev- 
ed by  gentle  ascents  and  pleasant  valleys,  and  dotted  with 
farm-houses  and  plantations.  The  forest  was  clad  in  all 
the  varied  habiliments  of  summer  and  autumn,  while 
graceful  willows  adorned  the  bank,  and  “ bathed  their 
leafy  tresses  in  the  stream.”  It  occasions  a most  strange 
sensation,  this  renewing  of  the  year,  this  finding,  in  De- 
cember, all  the  warmth  and  verdure  of  the  “ Gioventu 
del  anno”  and  to  me  it  was  productive  of  pleasure  of 
the  sweetest  and  gentlest  kind. 

As  we  approached  New  Orleans,  the  plantations  and 
houses  became  more  thickly  crowded,  and  the  river  re- 
minded me  very  much  of  the  Thames  below  London, 
where  the  shores  of  Kent  and  Essex  are  low  and  flat. 
Our  boat  had  received  a great  addition  in  mirth,  in  the 
shape  of  eighty  or  a hundred  boys  returning  from  Jeffer- 
son College,  which  is  about  a hundred  miles  above  New 
Orleans,  to  spend  the  Christmas  holidays  in  or  near  that 
city.  They  were  most  of  them  Creoles,  and  it  did  me 
.good  to  hear  their  light  and  joyous  laughter,  after  our 
dull  and  tedious  voyage.  We  reached  the  southern  ca- 
pital of  the  United  States  without  further  incident  ar  oc- 
currence worthy  of  record. 


APPEARANCE  OF  THE  CITY. 


129 


CHAPTER  IX. 

First  Appearance  of  New  Orleans. — Lodgings  — Public  Buildings. — 
Society. — Theatres. — Creole  Bali — Creole  Beauty. — Cotton-press- 
ing.— Motley  Population. — The  Battle  Field. — Pont  Chartrain. — 
Suburbs  of  the  City. — Leave  New  Orleans. — Change  of  Climate. — 
A Polish  Jew. — Dangerous  Rocks. — The  New  Year. — Harbour  of 
Havana. — Regulations  on  Landing. — Former  and  Present  State  of 
Havana. — Military  Force  in  Cuba. — The  Town  of  Havana. — Public 
Ball. — Spanish  Boarding-house. — Beautiful  Italian. — An  Excursion. 
— Visit  to  the  Governor. — Performers  at  the  Italian  Opera. — The 
Theatre. — The  Audience. — Effectual  Police  System. — The  Garrotte. 
— Execution  of  Culprits. — Streets  of  Havana. — Idlers. — Manufac- 
ture of  Cigars. 

The  first  appearance  of  New  Orleans  is  not  remark- 
ably striking  ; the  surrounding  country  is  flat  and  unin- 
teresting, and  the  only  object  which  arrests  the  Traveller’s 
eye,  is  the  forest  of  masts,  such  as  may  be  seen  in  a 
large  seaport  in  any  country.  On  landing,  I found  great 
difficulty  in  procuring  anything  like  comfortable  lodg- 
ings ; however,  having  called  upon  the  British  consul, 
I contrived,  through  his  kind  assistance,  to  establish  my- 
self in  the  same  boarding-house  in  which  he  lived,  where 
I got  a clean  bed,  an  airy  room,  (to  myself,)  a good  ta- 
ble, and  a very  pleasant  society,  consisting  of  three  or 
four  Germans,  one  or  two  Creoles,  and  several  English 
or  Americans. 

The  town  is  divided  into  two  “ quartiers,”  or  sections, 
the  French  and  the  American ; the  latter  occupying  its 
north-western,  the  former  its  south-eastern  division. 
There  are  many  buildings  of  considerable  extent,  and 
some  new  banks,  which  are  handsome  specimens  of  Gre- 
cian architecture  ; still  there  is  nothing  worthy  of  pecu- 
liar notice  or  mention.  In  churches,  it  is  poorer  and 
more  deficient  than  any  city  in  America;  and,  in  public 
buildings,  it  is  surpassed  by  many  towns  of  less  extent 
and  wealth.  The  society,  like  the  town,  is  divided  into 
two  distinct  portions,  the  American  and  the  Creole,  and 


130 


THEATRES. CREOLE  BALL. 


they  do  not  mingle  much  together ; the  former,  being 
composed  mostly  of  persons  actively  and  constantly  en- 
gaged in  making  fortunes,  have  little  time  for  gayety ; 
and  although  the  younger  and  fairer  portions  of  their  fa- 
milies may  amuse  themselves  with  parties,  assemblies, 
balls,  &c.,  as  elsewhere,  1 should  judge,  from  what  I 
have  seen,  that  the  gayest  and  merriest  part  of  New  Or- 
leans is  to  be  found  in  the  Creole  society. 

There  are  three  theatres,  two  American  and  one 
French  ; all  respectably  decorated,  although  it  is  scarcely 
fair  yet  to  judge  of  the  new  American  theatre,  as  it  is  not 
quite  finished  ; but  I had  been  told  to  expect  a house 
larger  than  any  in  London,  and  as  capacious  as  those  of 
Naples  and  Milan  : in  this  respect  the  New  Orleanists 
deceive  themselves  and  others  very  much.  I know  not 
what  the  comparative  dimensions  of  the  ground  on  which 
they  stand  may  be,  but,  as  regards  the  interior,  it  appears 
larger  than  the  Haymarket,  and  less  than  either  Covent 
Garden  or  Drury  Lane.  Madame  Celeste,  known  by  the 
Anglo-dumestic  appellation  of  “ Mrs.  Elliot,  of  Balti- 
more,” was  drawing  very  full  houses,  and  astonishing 
the  natives  with  some  Parisian  pirouettes  and  pas  de 
Zephyr  e. 

I soon  became  acquainted  with  several  polite  and 
obliging  persons  of  different  countries,  and  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  observing,  that  the  style  of  living  at  New  Or- 
leans, though  not  so  expensive  as  among  the  wealthier 
merchants  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia,  is  very  hand- 
some and  comfortable.  During  my  stay  here  I received 
an  invitation  to  a Creole  ball,  the  first  of  the  season.  The 
house  was  small,  but  very  neatly  furnished  ; the  music, 
which  consisted  of  a harp,  piano,  flute,  violin,  and  cla- 
rionet, was  performed  by  amateurs,  notwithstanding 
which  it  was  excellent.  On  entering  the  room,  and  cast- 
ing my  eyes  around  me,  I stood  in  admiration  at  the 
number  of  pretty  faces  and  figures,  and  at  the  correct- 
ness of  taste  displayed  in  the  dresses  of  the  ladies. 

The  general  character  of  Creole  beauty  is  a dark,  but 
clear  and  transparent  complexion,  black  eyes  fringed  with 
long  eyelashes,  and  finely  pencilled  eyebrows  ; a nose 
neither  Greek  nor  Roman,  but  delicately  formed,  and  a 


CREOLE  BEAUTY. — COTTON  PRESSING. 


131 


very  fine  “• taille ,”  although  apt  to  run  rather  early  too 
far  into  the  “ aimable  embonpoint .”  In  manners  the 
Creole  ladies  are  gay,  lively,  and  unaffected,  and  altoge- 
ther possess  as  much  personal  attraction  as  has  fallen  to 
the  lot,  even  of  the  fairest  average  of  the  fair  creation. 
They  all  have  fine  dark  hair,  and,  what  is  very  remark- 
able, they  all  dress  it  nearly  in  the  same  manner : this 
coiffure  is  not  a la  Grecque , but  of  that  character,  and 
the  hair  is  brought  rather  forward  on  the  side  of  the 
cheek  ; they  seem  to  pay  very  great  attention  to  this  part 
of  the  toilette,  and  I do  not  remember  to  have  seen  hair 
more  beautifully  clean,  fine,  and  gracefully  disposed  ; 
nevertheless,  I must  confess,  that  I should  admire  the 
taste  of  the  fair  Creoles  more,  if  they  arranged  it  with 
greater  variety,  according  to  the  respective  characters  of 
their  features. 

Of  course,  the  conversation  was  carried  on  in  French, 
and  the  customs  of  the  same  nation  were  observed  during 
the  evening:  according  to  these,  I was  privileged,  to  ad- 
dress and  to  dance  with  any  young  lady  in  company, 
without  going  through  the  ceremonial  ordeal  of  introduc- 
tion ; and  it  is  impossible  to  conceive  an  assembly  con- 
ducted with  more  agrement , and  with  less  restraint,  than 
this  Creole  coterie.  I must  also  acknowledge,  that  I had 
seen  nothing  so  like  a ball  since  I left  Europe  : the  con - 
tre-danses  were  well  danced,  and  there  was  waltzing 
without  swinging,  and  a galloppade  without  a romp. 
The  supper  was  exceedingly  handsome,  and  in  one  re- 
spect superior  to  most  of  those  given  at  ball  suppers  in 
London  : namely,  the  wines  were  of  the  same  descrip- 
tion which  our  host  would  give  to  his  friends  at  dinner  ; 
whereas,  in  the  latter  city,  it  is  but  too  common  a prac- 
tice to  give  inferior  wines  on  such  occasions,  and  to  poi- 
son the  guests  with  Wright’s  champaign,  upon  the  plea, 
that  it  is  good  enough  for  a ball  supper.  On  the  whole, 
I went  away  much  pleased  with  the  mirth  and  agreeable 
manners  of  Creole  society. 

A day  or  two  after  my  arrival,  I went  to  see  the  pro- 
cess of  pressing  the  cotton,  which  is  performed  by  the 
simplest  steam-machinery.  Some  of  the  establishments 
for  this  purpose  are  very  extensive,  and  are  capable  of 


132 


THE  BATTLE  FIELD. 


pressing  from  five  hundred  to  one  thousand  bales  per 
day.  They  receive  seventy-five  cents,  or  about  3s.  6d. 
per  bale,  the  expense  of  which  is  borne  by  the  exporting 
ship.  It  is  obvious  that  the  ship-owners  can  well  afford 
this,  as  they  are  enabled  to  take,  at  least,  a third  more 
cargo  than  they  could  stow  away  if  the  bales  were  un- 
pressed. 

The  population  passing  in  the  streets,  especially  on 
“the  Levee,”  and  others  adjoining  the  river,  is  the  most 
amusing  motley  assemblage  that  can  be  exhibited  by 
any  town  on  earth.  The  prevailing  language  seems  to 
be  that  of  Babel — Spanish,  Portuguese,  French,  Eng- 
lish, mixed  with  a few  wretched  remains  of  Choctaw, 
and  other  Indian  tribes ; and  all  these  are  spoken  in  the 
loudest,  broadest,  and  strangest  dialects,  especially  in 
the  markets. 

As  it  was  my  good  fortune  to  visit  New  Orleans  in 
winter,  I heard  little,  and  saw  nothing  of  yellow  fever  ; 
consequently  that  subject,  equally  new  and  delightful, 
will  find  no  place  in  these  pages  ; and  the  land-crabs 
must  also  submit  to  the  mortification  of  remaining  un- 
noticed by  me  : they  will  probably  receive  their  due 
meed  of  celebrity  at  the  hands  of  any  traveller  who  pays 
a summer  visit  to  New  Orleans. 

Of  course,  I felt  myself  bound  to  go  and  see  the  battle- 
field, which  is  about  five  miles  below  the  town.  Ac- 
cordingly, I hired  a horse  of  a French  liveryman,  and 
begged  him  to  give  me  one  with  some  life  and  spirit. 
He  looked  me  carefully  over  (I  suppose  to  calculate  how 
much  battering  my  bones  would  bear),  and  said,  “ Est - 
ce  que  tu  montes  bien?”  I told  him,  “tolerably  well.” 
He  forthwith  put  me  upon  a half-broken  animal,  which 
had  no  describable  gait,  save  a rough,  high,  slow  gallop. 
The  only  spirit  it  evinced  was,  in  shying  at  every  trifle 
in  the  streets — sometime  turning  round  altogether ; and 
I felt  heartily  glad  when  I got  out  of  the  town,  having 
killed  no  child,  and  only  lamed  one  pig. 

The  field  of  battle,  and  all  around  it,  is  completely 
level ; on  one  side  of  it  is  the  Mississippi,  on  the  other 
swamps  and  woods  : so  that,  with  a simple  narration  in 
his  hand,  the  most  peaceable  citizen  can  understand  at  a 


VONT  CHARTRAIN. 


133 


glance  the  locality,  and  the  nature  of  the  contest.  Upon 
such  a worn-out  subject  it  is  unnecessary  now  to  remark 
anything,  except,  that  it  reflected  the  highest  honour 
upon  the  courage  of  General  Jackson  and  the  few  raw 
levies  under  his  command,  to  wait  steadily  and  face  a 
regular  and  well-disciplined  body  of  troops  more  nu- 
merous than  themselves.  Jn  respect  to  the  English,  I 
have  never  heard  but  one  account,  namely,  that,  with  few 
exceptions,  they  supported  the  murderous  fire  of  their 
secure  enemies,  and  advanced  to  almost  certain  death 
with  a deiermined  and  obstinate  bravery,  worthy  of  them- 
selves and  their  country.  With  regard  to  the  conduct 
of  the  commander  who  placed  them  in  such  a position, 
it  has  been  so  often  and  so  severely  commented  upon  by 
military  critics,  that  it  is  quite  unnecessary  for  one  who 
is  no  soldier  to  cast  another  stone. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  New  Orleans,  there  is  a very 
pleasant  drive  to  the  head  of  a long  arm  of  the  sea, 
called  Pont  Chartrain.  This  road  is  made  entirely  of 
shells,  and  is  as  hard  and  smooth  as  the  best  road  in  Bri- 
tain. It  winds  along  a little  creek;  and  as  you  pass 
along,  with  the  water  on  one  side,  and  a variety  of  rich 
luxuriant  shrubs  on  the  other,  the  scene  may  almost  be 
called  pretty.  Still  all  around  are  the  monotonous  level 
and  the  dismal  swamp  ; and  I sincerely  hope  I may 
never  view  its  summer  beauties.  I passed  three  negro 
hunters,  tramping  through  the  mud  and  bushes  after  ra- 
coons. They  had  killed  three,  of  which  the  gentleman 
who  was  driving  me  bought  one,  and  carried  it  off  in  the 
pony-chair. 

The  suburbs  of  the  city  present  a melancholy  contrast 
to  those  at  New  York,  Baltimore,  and  other  great  Ame- 
rican towns.  Many  houses  are  shut  up,  some  falling 
down,  weeds  choking  the  gardens,  and  stray  pigs  and 
mules  walking  at  pleasure  through  the  broken  palings. 
At  the  American  end  there  is  more  bustle,  activity,  and 
improvement.  It  is  difficult  to  predict  whether  New 
Orleans  will  ever  greatly  extend  its  wealth  and  com- 
merce. It  is  true,  that  the  great  valley  of  the  Missis- 
sippi is  daily  increasing  its  enormous  produce;  still  the 
canals  and  railroads  running  eastward,  will,  doubtless, 
Vol.  II.— M 


134 


CHANGE  OF  CLIMATE. 


become  an  important  and  secure  medium  of  transporta- 
tion. 

1 left  New  Orleans  on  the  29th  of  December,  on  board 
the  brig  “ Rolla,”  a neat  little  craft  of  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  tons.  Having  had  the  good  fortune  to  collect 
a party  of  acquaintances,  consisting  of  six  persons,  we 
took  the  whole  cabin  to  ourselves,  and  had  before  us 
every  prospect  of  a speedy  and  pleasant  voyage.  We 
were  towed  down  to  the  Balize,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Mississippi,  about  one  hundred  miles  below  New  Or- 
leans, where  the  steam-boat  left  us  to  our  fate,  and  to 
the  mercy  of  the  winds.  Although  the  scenery  around 
these  last  hundred  miles  of  the  course  of  the  Father  of 
rivers,  is  low,  swampy,  and  dismal  in  the  extreme,  I 
could  not  leave  him  without  a sigh.  I had  spent  so 
many  days  and  weeks  upon  his  broad  noble  bosom — I 
had  rambled  so  long  upon  his  swelling  and  forest-shaded 
banks — I had  seen  the  youth,  the  manhood,  and  the  ter- 
mination of  his  gigantic  course — his  face  had  been  so 
long  familiar  to  me — that  I could  not  part  with  him  with- 
out many  interesting  recollections,  mingled  with  regret. 
However,  it  is  the  fate  of  the  traveller  to  break  all  the 
gentle  local  chains  that  would  delay  him  in  his  course; 
and  he  must  get  hardened  to  it,  and  bear  it  either  with 
indifference,  or  forced  resignation,  according  to  the  com- 
position of  his  character.  Once  more  I was  on  the  free 
and  boundless  sea  ; old  Ocean  smiled  upon  me  with  the 
reflected  beams  of  a brilliant  sun,  and  seemed  disposed 
to  make  me  some  amends  for  the  rough  and  uncourteous 
manner  in  which  he  had  treated  me  in  1834. 

Oh,  what  a change  of  climate  from  that  which  we  had 
left  at  St.  Louis  and  Prairie  du  Chien  ! We  now  sat 
without  a coat  on  the  deck,  and  were  not  sorry  to  avail 
ourselves  of  the  shade  of  the  main  or  the  try  sail.  We 
whiled  our  time  listlessly  away,  in  reading,  or  in  drink- 
ing some  light  hockheimer,  of  which  we  had  taken  a 
small  stock  on  board.  I provided  myself  with  a Spanish 
grammar,  and  set  resolutely  to  work,  in  order  that  I 
might  understand  something,  and  be  somewhat  under- 
stood in  Havana,  and  lay  the  foundation  for  making  ac- 


A POLISH  JEW. 


135 


quaintance  with  Garcilasso,  Calderone,  and  the  Shak- 
peare  of  the  world  of  prose,  Cervantes. 

We  had  on  board  an  old  man,  whom  Walter  Scott 
must  have  seen  before  he  drew  his  Isaac  of  York.  He 
was  a Polish  Jew  of  about  seventy  years  of  age,  with  a 
beard  as  long,  thick,  and  strong  as  a wild  prairie  horse’s 
mane ; he  wore  a little  round  cap  on  his  head,  and  his 
person  was  enveloped  in  a black  gabardine.  He  spoke 
no  English,  but  tolerably  good  German  ; in  addition  to 
which,  and  to  his  own  Slavonic  mother  tongue,  he  jab- 
bered a little  wretched  French.  When  I first  came  on 
board,  I saw  him  standing  by  the  booby  hatch,  wring- 
ing his  hands,  crying  and  whining  in  all  the  agony  of 
Shylock’s,  “O  my  ducats! — O my  daughter!”  The 
sailors  could  not  understand  his  grief  or  the  cause  of  it, 
and  were  laughing  at  his  strange  appearance  and  ges- 
ticulations. As  I heard  that  he  was  howling  in  German, 
I asked  him  (in  that  language)  what  was  the  matter  ; and 
I shall  not  soon  forget  the  ludicrously  piteous  expres- 
sions which  he  poured  forth.  The  old  man  was  leaning 
over  a wooden  trunk  containing  all  his  goods  and  chat- 
tels, of  which  he  had  accidentally  dropped  the  key  down 
the  hatchway  among  the  packages  in  the  hold,  and  his 
miseries  were  depicted  in  the  following  pathetic  strain  : 
— “ O heavens  !”  said  he,  “ I have  lost  my  key  ! — my 
bread,  my  onions,  my  vinegar — my  all  is  locked  in  this 
trunk,  and  I can  get  at  nothing  ; and  these  d — d rascals 
and  vagabonds,  the  sailors,  keep  laughing  at  me.”  I told 
him  very  gravely  that  we  could  easily  break  the  trunk 
open  ; and  oh  ! the  grin  of  horror  with  which  he  re- 
ceived the  proposition  ! his  beard  vibrated  from  root  to 
point  as  he  told  me  he  would  rather  starve  ! I am  hap- 
py to  say  that  we  found  his  key  on  the  following  morn- 
ing, and  he  revelled  luxuriously  on  his  bread,  onions,  and 
vinegar.  He  was  a complete  old  rogue,  and  afforded 
much  amusement  on  the  voyage,  especially  to  me,  and 
a German  friend  of  mine,  because  we  could  hear  him, 
whenever  he  was  offended,  abusing  the  sailors  in  every 
execrative  term  which  that  rich  language  contains,  while 
the  tars  onl)  grinned  the  more,  in  total  ignorance  of  the 
nature  of  his  harangue. 


136 


DANGEROUS  ROCKS, 


For  two  days  and  a half  the  breeze  continued  fair  but 
light,  and  we  caught  sight  of  the  distant  heights  on  the 
north-west  coast  of  Cuba.  We  had  passed  considerably 
to  the  westward  of  the  well-known  and  dangerous  rocks 
called  the  Tortugas,  where  so  many  hundred  thousand 
dollars  and  so  many  brave  fellows  have  been  lost,  but 
which  are  now  less  disastrous  in  consequence  of  the 
light-house  which  has  been  placed  on  one  of  them. 
They  are,  nevertheless,  still  perilous  to  a navigator  un- 
acquainted with  these  seas,  as  the  currents  among  and 
around  them,  are  so  various,  so  rapid,  and  so  irresistibly 
strong,  that  the  greatest  care  must  be  observed,  in  order 
to  prevent  being  carried  away  by  them.  Our  brig  was 
too  light  in  the  water  by  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  ; so  that, 
when  we  fell  in  with  the  easterly  trade-wind,  we  made 
but  feeble  attempts  to  beat  to  windward.  This  was 
tiresome  : however,  on  the  1st  of  January,  we  determin- 
ed to  be  merry,  and  consequently  we  were  so  ; we  passed 
around  the  “ many  happy  returns,”  according  to  good  old 
custom  ; and  our  dear  absent  friends  were,  “ in  our  flow- 
ing cups,  freshly  remembered.” 

How  strange  it  seems,  that  when  another  year  is  added 
to  the  bygone  portion  of  our  brief  span — when  the 
thoughts  and  the  deeds  of  another  year  swell  the  heavy 
catalogue  of  our  responsibilities — when  the  departed  year 
has  borne  with  it,  perhaps  by  the  mercy  of  Providence, 
not  many  whom  we  loved,  certainly  many  among  whom 
we  have  lived  and  moved — in  short,  when  Nature’s  cur- 
few would  seem  to  toll  the  knell  of  an  important  portion 
of  life — how  strange  it  is  that  we  choose  this  very  sea- 
son for  an  outpouring  of  gayety  and  mirth  ! Still  it  is  a 
blessed  dispensation,  that  we  are  able  thus  to  turn  our 
eyes  with  hope  to  the  new-born  year — to  hail  its  dawn 
— to  gladden  our  spirits  with  its  promises,  and  to  dismiss 
from  our  breast  any  forebodings  of  the  perils  and  the 
sorrows  that  lie  hidden  in  its  dark,  and,  alas  ! too  fruit- 
ful womb. 

But.  to  return  to  Cuba,  or  rather  to  the  head  wind 
which  kept  us  from  reaching  it.  The  brig  was  so  light 
that  she  could  not  beat  to  windward  ; and  had  it  not  been 
for  the  current  which  set  in  strong  toward  the  east,  we 


HARBOUR  OP  HAVANA. 


137 


could  have  made  no  progress.  However,  after  three  or 
four  days  of  tedious  tacking,  we  succeeded  in  making  the 
harbour  of  Havana.  The  navigation  of  this  coast  is  ren- 
dered somewhat  difficult  by  the  extraordinary  variety  of 
opposing  forces  : the  current  runs  from  west  to  east,  the 
trade  wind  blows  from  east  to  west ; and  from  ten  at 
night  till  eight  in  the  morning,  there  seems  to  be  a pretty 
steady  breeze  off  the  island,  which  is  by  no  means  fa- 
vourable to  a ship  approaching  it.  The  harbour  is  deep, 
extensive,  and  extremely  well  protected  from  every  wind 
except  a northern  ; the  entrance  to  it  is  very  narrow,  and 
guarded  by  a strong  fortress  and  battery,  called  the  Mo- 
ro,  and  a ship,  on  entering  the  harbour,  is  obliged  to  pass 
close  under  its  rocky  and  threatening  sides ; as  you  ad- 
vance, you  are  liable  to  be  raked  by  two  or  three  other 
batteries.  Upon  the  whole,  it  appeared  to  me  that  it 
would  be  a matter  of  extreme  difficulty  for  a hostile 
squadron  to  force  an  entrance  ; and,  as  a Spaniard  re- 
marked to  me,  “ of  much  greater  to  effect  an  exit.” 

The  Havana,  originally  founded  by  Diego  Velasquez, 
in  1515,  is  a walled  town,  protected  on  the  land  side  by 
several  fortified  heights,  which  I may  notice  more  par- 
ticularly hereafter.  The  impression  of  a stranger,  on  his 
first  arrival,  certainly  is,  that  it  must  be  a very  strong 
place.  The  regulations  on  landing  are  very  strict  ; pass- 
ports must  be  sent  into  the  governor,  and  no  person  can. 
leave  the  ship  till  his  “ permit”  is  obtained  and  sent  on 
board.  I scarcely  understand  how  a man  arriving  here 
quite  unknown  and  without  a friend,  could  even  disem- 
bark himself  or  his  goods ; as  it  is  necessary,  after  the 
passport  is  sent  in,  for  some  resident  in  the  town  to 
apply  in  person  for  the  permit,  and  give  bail  for  the  con- 
duct of  the  new-comer  during  his  stay.  However,  no 
one  can  find  fault  with  these  apparent  restrictions,  as  they 
form  part  of  the  system  of  discipline  introduced  by  go- 
vernor Tacon,  which  has  wrought  an  extraordinary 
change  in  the  state  of  the  island. 

A few  years  ago,  brawls,  robberies,  and  murders  were 
of  daily  occurrence  in  the  streets  of  Havana  : life  and 
properly  were  insecure,  even  in  broad  daylight,  and  after 
dark  no  peaceable  citizen  would  dare  to  stir  abroad ; 
M* 


138 


MILITARY  FORCE, 


the  town  swarmed  with  gamblers  and  desperadoes, 
while  bands  of  robbers  and  plunderers  infested  the  inte- 
rior of  the  country.  Immediately  on  his  appointment, 
governor  Tacon  determined  to  work  a total  change  in 
this  state  of  things.  He  made  no  distinction  of  rank  or 
station,  but  began  by  dismissing  and  imprisoning  one  of  his 
principal  officers  for  peculation  ; he  then  drove  out  all 
the  gamblers,  and  made  a complete  clearance  of  the  ruf- 
fian bands  in  the  town  and  country.  He  established  a 
very  strict  system  of  police,  civil  and  military  ; forbade 
the  use,  or  even  the  wearing  of  pistols,  swordsticks,  or 
dirks  ; and  every  part  of  Havana  was,  at  the  time  of  my 
s-tay  there,  as  safe  a promenade  at  ten  at  night  as  St. 
James’  street. 

The  military  force  in  Cuba  is  greater  than  I could 
have  imagined,  considering  the  state  of  its  mother 
country  : indeed,  I very  much  doubt  whether  the  Queen 
could  bring  into  the  field  as  large  a body  of  troops  in 
Spain,  as  her  powerful  deputy  commanded  in  Cuba.  As 
far  as  1 am  able  to  collect,  he  had  nearly  twenty-five 
thousand  regular  troops  and  forty  thousand  militia.* 
This  large  military  establishment  is  doubtless  requisite  : 
the  negroes  form,  probably  three-fifths  of  the  population, 
and  are  a much  more  active,  strong,  muscular  race  of 
men  than  are  now  found  in  the  coloured  inhabitants  of 
the  United  States.  There  are  great  and  constant  impor- 
tations from  Africa,  which  Spain  (in  defiance  of  all  pro- 
mises, treaties,  and  the  several  hundred  thousand  ster- 
ling, paid  to  her  by  a well-meaning  but  Quixotic  person- 
age, called  John  Bull)  still  connives  at.f 

The  entrance  into  the  town  from  the  water  is  very 
striking : the  stranger,  after  passing  through  one  small 
street,  comes  upon  the  square  called  ihe  Plaza  de  las 
Armas;  one  side  of  it  is  occupied  by  the  governor’s 

* In  regard  to  the  organization  of  the  militia,  I could  obtain  no  cer- 
tain information  ; by  the  best  accounts,  however,  although  numerous, 
it  is  not  trained  or  exercised.  It  consists  chiefly  of  the  “ monteros,’* 
literally  “ huntsmen  but  the  name  is  here  given  to  all  the  small  coun- 
try proprietors  and  farmers  of  Spanish  blood. 

t By  the  treaty  of  1817,  which  was  to  take  effect  in  1820,  England 
agreed  to  pay  to  Spain  400,000/.  sterling,  as  an  indemnification  for  the 
loss  arising  from  the  abolition  of  the  slave  trade. 


HOUSES. 


139 


house,  the  other  by  the  intendant’s,  or  the  financial  minis- 
ter. Neither  of  these  edifices  possesses  any  claim  to  ad- 
miration on  the  ground  of  architectural  merit;  but  both 
are  handsome  as  to  size,  and  an  appearance  of  age  and 
solidity.  The  interior  of  the  square  is  laid  out  as  a 
shrubbery,  protected  by  iron  railings ; and  the  public 
walks  which  surround  and  intersect  it  are  paved.  In 
the  centre  is  a marble  statue  of  Ferdinand  VII,  brought, 
I believe,  from  Rome.  Three  times  every  week  the  mi- 
litary band  plays  in  the  evening  in  this  square,  and  then 
it  is  the  resort  of  most  of  the  beauty  and  idleness  in  the 
city.  The  ladies  appear  in  their  “ volantes,”*  in  evening 
dress,  and  their  heads  unprotected  by  a hat  or  a kerchief 
(even  on  the  9th  of  January) ; others  sit  in  the  inner  area; 
and  the  men  parade  around,  either  chatting  with  their 
fair  acquaintance,  or  indolently  smoking  their  Dos  Ami- 
gos or  Carbanos.  The  military  band  is  tolerable  good  ; 
and  under  the  influence  of  a cool  evening  breeze  and  a 
bright  moon,  produces  a very  pleasing  effect. 

The  streets  of  Havana  are  regular;  any  house  or 
square  is  easily  found,  although  the  buildings  are  quaint 
and  irregular  in  their  style  of  architecture  ; and  many  of 
them  have  large  balconies  of  carved  wood,  which  are 
handsome  from  their  grotesque  and  massive  character. 
Most  of  the  large  houses  are  built  round  a court,  in  the 
interior  of  which  are  galleries  which  afford  constant 
shelter  from  the  sun,  and  many  families  dine  in  them. 

* This  word  is,  I believe,  peculiar  to  Cuba,  and  is  unknown  in  this 
sense  in  Old  Spain.  For  the  information  of  the  uninstructed,  I should 
explain  that  a volante  is  something  like  a large  cabriolet  (though  a strict 
etymologist  from  Brighton  would  designate  it  a fly.)  It  is  an  easy  kind 
of  carriage,  swung  entirely  before  the  axletree  ; it  has  two  wheels, 
which  are  extremely  high  and  wide,  and  is  generally  drawn  by  one 
horse  in  shafts,  which,  moreover  carries  a negro  (called  a calesero),  and 
his  boots,  which  latter  come  above  his  knees  : I have  sometimes  ex- 
pected to  see  the  little  wearer  subside  into  them  altogether.  These  car- 
riages are  very  safe  and  convenient,  except  for  two  classes — the  horses 
which  draw  them  and  the  foot-passengers.”  In  respect  to  these  latter, 
they  are  considerably  annoyed  when  two  of  these  broad  vehicles  pass 
one  another  in  the  narrow  streets,  and  the  black  postilions  rattle  their 
high  wheels  over  the  foot-pavement  without  scruple  or  mercy.  In  re- 
spect to  the  horses,  I am  completely  puzzled  how  they  contrive  to  draw 
the  machine  at  all:  they  are  but  small  animals,  and  are  harnessed  a$ 
least  two  yards  farther  than  necessary  from  their  ponderous  load. 


140 


SPANISH  BOARDING-HOUSE. 


You  enter  by  a large  archway,  under  which  the  “ volante’* 
is  usually  placed,  the  stable  being  at  the  back  of  the 
court.  What  strikes  a foreigner  most  is,  the  extreme 
publicity  here  of  domestic  life;  windows  are  unknown, 
at  least  the  place  of  glass  is  supplied  by  bars,  through 
which  you  can  distinctly  see  the  inmates,  their  occupa- 
tions, furniture,  &c.,  from  the  street,  especially  after 
night-fall,  when  the  rooms  are  lighted,  and  the  young 
lady  touches  her  piano,  or  wreathes  her  smiles  for  the 
benefit  of  every  passenger.  The  style  of  furniture  is 
generally  showy  and  handsome,  partaking  somewhat  of 
the  character  of  the  French  meubles  made  a century 
ago. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  I had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  a 
public  ball  at  a garden  called  Tivoli,  about  a mile  from 
the  town  : it  is  the  Vauxhall  of  Havana,  of  small  extent, 
but  agreeably  situated  ; it  was  very  numerously  attended 
by  the  families  of  respectable  merchants  and  tradesmen, 
but  not  by  the  aristrocracy.  Everything  was  conducted 
with  the  greatest  propriety  and  decorum.  The  dancing- 
floor  was  shaded  by  a roof  supported  by  pillars,  some  of 
which  were  the  natural  trunks  of  trees,  and  lighted  by 
very  pretty  chandeliers.  The  prevailing  dance  is  a kind 
of  union  of  the  waltz  and  the  English  fcountry-dance  ; 
extremely  dull  and  slow — more  stupid,  if  possible,  than 
a French  quadrille  in  England.  The  only  change  from 
this  dance  was  to  the  common  waltz,  which  was  perform- 
ed with  a deliberation  suitable  to  the  climate,  as  the 
thermometer,  from  the  5th  to  the  9th  of  January,  averaged 
75°  Fahrenheit,  in  the  shade,  and  the  sun  was  intensely 
hot ; but  all  the  people  in  the  town  told  me  it  was  ex- 
tremely cool  and  pleasant  ! Of  course  l was  obliged  to 
perspire,  and  be  silent.  I confess  I was  much  disap- 
pointed not  to  see  one  pretty  girl,  or  handsome  woman, 
in  this  assemblage  ; although  there  were  a few  pleasing 
and  expressive  countenances.  Many  of  the  ladies  dress- 
ed and  moved  with  considerable  grace. 

Being  anxious  to  acquire  the  language,  I left  my 
companions,  and  took  up  my  lodgings  in  a sort  of 
Spanish  boarding  house,  kept  by  one  Don  Juan  Gonza- 
lez. Among  the  lodgers,  already  in  the  house,  I found 


AN  EXCURSION. 


141 


an  English  gentleman,  who  had  been  fifteen  years  in 
Spain  and  Cuba,  and  three  of  the  Italian  Opera  com- 
pany, one  of  whom  was  a very  pretty  pleasing  woman, 
with  a very  delightful  pronunciation  of  her  own  beautiful 
language,  and  a pair  of  large,  dark  gray,  expressive  eyes, 
which  had  within  a year  subdued  her  present  husband, 
and  which  threatened  to  keep  me  awake  at  least  half  an 
hour  after  I retired,  for  the  first  time,  to  my  new  bed- 
chamber. 

Having  now  begun  to  speak  a few  words  of  Spanish, 
my  stock  of  which  I was  very  anxious  to  increase,  I found 
my  brain  altogether  confused  by  the  admixture  of  Italian 
spoken  at  breakfast  arid  dinner  : whenever  I did  not  know 
a Spanish  word  I spoke  an  Italian  one,  two  or  three 
other  guests  did  the  same,  and  the  conversation  was 
carried  on  in  the  most  beautiful  matrimony  of  these  two 
cognate  tongues  that  ever  was  heard.  I wish  any  gram- 
matical purist  of  either  country  could  have  heard  us  ; it 
would  have  driven  him  mad  : e.  g.  “ Segnor,  haga  me, 
v.m.  il  favor  de  dar  me  un  poco  di  questo  plato  ! Mu- 
chacho,  da  me  qualche  cosa  da  bebere  !”  &c. 

On  a succeeding  evening,  I availed  myself  of  an  op- 
portunity, presented  by  the  politeness  of  an  English  gen- 
tleman resident  here,  to  visit  a very  pretty  garden  in  the 
neighbourhood,  which  used  to  belong  to  the  bishop  ; but 
has  been  since  purchased  by  a nobleman,  who  still  per- 
mits strangers  to  walk  in  its  agreeable  shades.  We  set 
off  in  a volante  drawn  by  two  horses  ; our  postilion  was 
a most  frisky  negro-boy,  who  made  the  little  nags  go 
over  the  rough  and  stony  roads  at  a surprising  rate.  We 
went  out  of  the  gales  to  the  westward  ; and  leaving  on 
our  right  one  of  the  fortified  heights  to  which  I before 
alluded,  called  Castello  del  Principe,  immediately  at  the 
back  of  the  governor’s  villa,  we  turned  down  a by-road 
to  the  bishop’s  garden.  Here  I saw  dame  Nature  in  a 
dress  totally  new  to  me,  and  a very  beautiful  costume 
she  wore.  Orange  trees,  limes,  bananas,  &c.,  I had 
already  seen  in  profusion  at  Fayal ; but  the  vast  varieties 
of  pines  and  cypress,  the  palms,  the  cocoa  trees,  the  al 
mond,  and  many  others,  I saw  for  the  first  time.  The 
plantain  is  cultivated  to  a great  extent,  and  is  an  excellent 


142 


VISIT  TO  THE  GOVERNOR. 


vegetable  when  well  cooked  ; there  are  two  or  three  dif- 
ferent ways  of  dressing  it — the  decision  on  their  com- 
parative merils  I leave  to  better-qualified  judges.  The 
garden  is  very  prettily  laid  out;  the  roses  were  in  full 
bloom,  as  I suppose  they  always  are  in  this  climate  ; and 
the  soft  breeze  of  the  evening  bowed  the  feathery  and 
graceful  branches,  and  leaves,  of  the  palm  and  cocoa. 
There  are  several  little  arrangements  indicative  of  the 
taste  of  the  owner  ; accordingly,  we  observed  a small  arti- 
ficial piece  of  water,  an  enclosure  filled  with  tame  rabbits, 
while  a bear  growled  from  one  cage,  and  a bald  eagle 
screamed  from  another;  and  while  looking  at  this  curious 
animal  and  vegetable  medley,  a little  grinning  negro-boy 
came,  and,  dropping  on  one  knee,  presented  me  a nose- 
gay, saying,  with  a whine  of  ludicrous  melancholy,  “Ah  ! 
sehor,  quiere  usted  estas  rosas  ? Ah  ! senor,  da  me  un 
medio.”*  I took  the  bouquet,  gave  the  little  urchin  his 
sixpence,  and  he  went  off,  expressing  a hope  (doubtless, 
more  sincere  than  disinterested)  that  I would  revisit  the 
garden.  It  was  growing  too  late  for  me  to  be  able  to 
distinguish  many  of  the  smaller  varieties  of  flowers ; ac- 
cordingly, I was  obliged  to  defer  that  pleasure  for  another 
day  ; and,  jumping  into  the  volante,  was,  in  half  an  hour, 
safely  deposited  in  the  city. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  I was  presented  to  the  governor 
by  the  British  consul.  The  interior  of  his  residence  cor- 
responds with  what  I have  before  remarked  of  its  ex- 
terior ; it  is  large,  cool,  and  convenient,  without  any  pre- 
tensions to  architectural  beauty  ; but  I was  not  able,  on 
this  visit  of  ceremony,  to  see  more  than  two  or  three  of 
the  apartments.  The  governor  received  me  with  much 
courtesy,  and  the  conversation  was  carried  on  in  Spanish, 
although  he  understood  French  perfectly  well.  He  told 
me  that,  as  I was  learning  the  former  language,  I must 
practise  it  constantly,  and  speak  nothing  else.  Although 
this  arrangement  confined  me  to  the  very  few  phrases 
which  I knew,  and  rendered  me  almost  a mute  upon 
many  topics,  he  did  it  so  good-humouredly,  that  I went 

* Medio , short  for  medio  real,  is  a half-real.  One  real  is  equal  to  a 
bit,  in  the  United  States,  or  nearly  sixpence  sterling. 


ITALIAN  OPERA. 


143 


on  boldly  murdering  her  Catholic  Majesty’s  Spanish 
without  fear  or  hesitation. 

In  person  the  governor  is  below  the  middle  size  ; and 
his  countenance,  though  not  striking,  is  indicative  of  the 
calm  firmness  which  distinguishes  his  character.  He  is 
courteous  without  formality,  and  his  manners  are  digni- 
fied without  haughtiness  or  reserve.  As  brevity  is  the 
essence  of  a ceremonial  visit,  and  his  time  is  extremely 
occupied,  I prepared,  in  five  minutes,  to  take  my  leave  ; 
before  I did  so,  he  very  kindly  offered  me  a seat  in  his 
box  at  the  opera,  which  was  given  for  the  first  time  on  the 
same  evening,  and  desired  me  to  make  use  of  it  at  my 
pleasure,  during  my  stay.  Of  course  I availed  myself 
of  this  invitation,  which  was  the  more  agreeable,  as  the 
house  was  extremely  crowded. 

The  company  of  performers,  which  had  lately  arrived 
from  Iialy,  was  very  numerous,  and  contained  much 
vocal  and  instrumental  talent ; among  the  former  was  a 
sister  of  the  celebrated  Malibran  ; but  owing  to  indispo- 
sition, she  did  not  sing  this  evening.  The  opera  was 
Romeo  e Giulietta  : the  contralto  and  soprano  parts  wrere 
very  well  sustained  by  Signoras  Pantinelli  and  Rossi ; 
the  rest  were  feeble  performers.  The  orchestra  was  good, 
and  was  led  by  one  of  the  best  violins  that  I have  heard 
since  Paganini’s  notes  “ crept  in  my  ears.”  I am  not  very 
partial  to  this  production  of  the  bighly-talented  young 
composer ; one  great  fault  appears  to  me,  that  the  first 
act  is  by  far  the  best. 

The  house  is  spacious  and  extremely  high;  the  decora- 
tions are  neat  and  in  good  taste  ; but  the  exterior  of  the 
building  is  the  most  villainous  ugly  barn  that  ever  was 
seen  or  imagined  ; the  pit  is  all  divided  into  arm-chair 
seats,  called  here  “ lunetas,”  as  in  England  “stalls;”  and 
almost  all  the  boxes  in  the  first  and  second  tiers  are 
private.  The  assemblage  of  fair  spectators  w’as  very 
respectable,  both  in  regard  to  dress  and  beauty;  a few  of 
the  first  families  on  the  island  were  present,  but  a great 
proportion  of  them  were  at  this  season  on  their  country 
estates,  superintending  the  making  of  sugar,  &c. 

From  those  who  were  in  town  I received  many  and 
great  civilities  : horses  and  volantes  were  offered  to  me 


144 


PUBLIC  EXECUTION. 


every  day,  and  invitations  to  the  country  houses  of  their 
relations,  of  which  I proposed  ere  long  to  avail  myself. 
My  first  introduction  to  them  I owed  to  the  kindness  of 
the  gentlemen  resident  here,  on  the  commission  for  carry- 
ing into  effect  the  provisions  of  the  Anglo-Spanish  slave- 
treaty,  and  to  that  of  one  or  two  English  residents. 

At  this  time  the  police  system  of  the  present  governor 
had  been  so  effectual,  that  robberies  in  the  town  were 
almost  unheard  of;  however,  one  had  been  lately  com- 
mitted in  open  day,  by  a negro,  aided  by  a mulatto, 
and  the  culprits  had  been  delected.  The  former  was 
condemned  to  death,  the  latter  to  two  hundred  lashes  and 
ten  years’  labour  in  the  galleys.  The  sentence  was  carried 
into  execution  shortly  after,  in  the  following  manner  : — 
The  negro  was  taken  to  the  scaffold  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  placed  in  a kind  of  arm-chair,  to  the  legs  and 
arms  of  which  his  hands  and  feet  were  firmly  bound  ; a 
priest  attended  to  perform  the  last  offices  of  religion; 
and  as  soon  as  these  were  terminated,  at  a given  signal, 
a kind  of  tourniquet  was  applied  to  an  iron  collar  fasten- 
ed round  the  criminal’s  neck,  and  in  a minute  he  ceased 
lo  exist.  This  machine  is  called  by  the  Spaniards  a 
“garrote,”  (Fr.  garrot),  and  is  possessed  of  immense 
force  and  certainty.  It  appears  to  me  one  of  the  best  con- 
trivances for  capital  punishments  imaginable  ; and  is  free 
from  ihe  sanguinary  accompaniments  of  the  axe,  as  well 
as  from  the  possibility  of  protracted  suffering,  but  too 
well-known  in  executions  by  hanging.  After  death,  the 
body  of  the  criminal  was  left  till  two  or  three  in  the  after- 
noon, in  terrorem , when  it  was  claimed  and  buried  by 
the  monks,  on  whom  that  duty  devolves. 

The  mulatto  culprit  was  paraded  backwards  on  a mule 
through  all  the  streets,  (also  in  terrorem ,)  and  received 
his  two  hundred  lashes  at  different  intervals,  so  many  at 
each  appointed  place.  I saw  him  in  ihe  course  of  his 
progress:  though  a very  dark  man,  his  lips  were  of  pale 
blue,  from  shame  and  fear  ; and  the  guard  which  accom- 
panied him  was  followed  by  avast  concourse  of  negroes, 
idlers,  &c.  I believe  his  punishment,  and  the  method 
of  inflicting  it,  to  be  extremely  well  calculated  to  pro- 
duce its  intended  effect  in  a population  such  as  that  of 
Havana. 


STREETS  OF  HAVANA. — "-IDLERS. 


145 


Although  the  style  of  the  houses  in  Havana  is  irregu- 
lar, that  of  the  streets  is  not  so,  and  a stranger  finds  his 
way  about  the  town  with  the  greatest  ease  : in  fact,  the 
portion  within  the  walls  is  not  more,  if  it  is  so  much,  as 
that  which  may  be  called  suburban.  The  walled  town 
is  in  form  nearly  oval,  of  which  the  point  of  land  pro- 
tected by  the  guns  of  the  Moro,  and  other  batteries, 
forms  the  northern  apex,  the  curve  of  the  bay  and  the 
walls  forming  the  sides.  The  pavement  is  generally  very 
bad,  but  during  my  stay  a great  number  of  vagabonds, 
and  condemned  blacks,  &c.,  were  employed  in  M‘Adam- 
izing  many  of  the  streets  in  the  town. 

There  are  more  idle  people  in  Havana  than  I ever  saw 
in  any  place  of  the  same  size  : there  seem  to  be  hun- 
dreds of  respectably  dressed  persons  who  have  nothing 
else  to  do  than  to  smoke  cigars,  and  play  at  dominoes  or 
billiards.  There  is  a very  large  cafe,  called  the  Longa, 
(or  the  Exchange,)  where  are  half-a-dozen  billiard-ta- 
bles, and  as  many  for  dominoes,  and  these  seem  sur- 
rounded by  players  and  expectants  from  morning  till 
night.  Another  thing  strikes  a British  traveller’s  eye  as 
singular  and  amusing,  namely,  that  most  of  the  shops 
have  a sign,  or  a norn  de  guerre , placed  over  the  door, 
which  has  not  the  least  reference  to  the  character  of  the 
articles  sold  therein  : for  instance,  he  will  see  “ Modesty” 
— “Truth” — “The  Fair  Nymph” — “Patience,”  &c., 
over  a grog-shop  ; “ The  Sportsman,”  the  “ Indian  War- 
rior,” &c  , over  a silk  or  riband  warehouse,  and  many 
similar  incongruities. 

I must  now  come  to  one  of  the  most  important  sub- 
jects which  Havana  presents  to  a philosophical  foreigner  ; 
namely,  the  manufacture  of  cigars.  In  spite  of  the  great 
increase  of  their  consumption  in  England,  it  is  surprising 
how  little  is  known  about  them,  and  what  errors  prevail 
regarding  them.  It  is  generally  believed  that  one  has 
nothing  else  to  do  than  to  go  to  Havana,  and  that  the 
best  cigars  can  be  found  in  every  quarter  : this  is  a great 
mistake,  and  I have  no  hesitation  in  saying,  that  those  of 
the  English  gentry  who  can  afford  to  pay  a good  price 
to  the  best  dealers  in  London  and  Liverpool,  smoke  bel- 
ter cigars  than  the  average  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  city. 
Vol.  II.— N 


346 


MANUFACTURE  OF  CIGARS. PRICES. 


The  reason  is  sufficiently  obvious ; the  demand  is  so 
great,  that  no  manufacturer  can  keep  a stock  by  him  ; 
they  are  sold  as  soon  as  made,  and  are  generally  smoked 
quite  green  and  raw,  whereas,  they  should  be  made  at 
least  two  or  three  months  before  ihey  are  used.  How- 
ever, Ido  not  think  that  the  very  finest  qualities  go  to 
Europe,  and  for  the  very  simple  reason,  that  they  are  not 
fashionable : they  are  generally  dark  coloured,  and  the 
public  in  the  old  world  prefers  a lighter  coloured,  smoothly 
rolled  cigar,  to  the  strong  and  highly  flavoured  rough 
looking  ones,  which  are  most  held  in  estimation  among 
the  Havanese.  Indeed,  some  of  the  best  which  I ever 
tasted  in  my  life,  were  given  me  by  an  English  gentle- 
man, who  had  sent  them  to  a friend  in  Liverpool,  and 
they  were  returned,  as  being  too  coarse  and  ugly  ! The 
voyage  twice  across  the  Atlantic  had  ripened  them,  and 
they  were  the  most  perfect  vade-mecum  imaginable  for 
the  meditative  philosopher. 

The  greatest  manufacturers  are  Cabanos,  Hernandez, 
(known  to  the  smoking  world  under  the  nom  de  guerre 
of  Dos  Amigos,)  Silva,  and  Rencureuil,  who  exports 
chiefly  to  Holland  and  France  : but  besides  these,  there 
are  hundreds  of  manufacturers  who  make  from  ten  to  one 
thousand  per  day.  The  cigar  is  composed  of  two  dis- 
tinct parts,  called  here  the  “ tripas,”  or  “ inside,”  and  the 
“ capa,”  or  “cover;”  for  these,  twro  different  kinds  of 
leaves  are  used,  of  which  the  latter  is  generally  finer  in 
texture,  as  well  as  more  pliant.  Those  leaves  which 
are  to  be  made  upon  Tuesday,*  are  damped  on  Monday 
evening,  and  allowed  to  remain  so  all  night,  and  when 
rolled,  they  are  placed  on  a large  table,  where  they  are 
divided  into  the  various  qualities  of  first,  second,  third, 
&c.,  and  priced  accordingly.  Those  which  are  most 
carefully  and  beautifully  rolled  are  called  “regalias,”  and 
are  sold  at  twenty-two,  twenty-three,  or  twenty-six  dol- 
lars a thousand,  while  the  second  best,  which  are  of  the 
very  same  tobacco,  and  made  by  the  same  man,  (only 
with  a little  less  attention  to  symmetry  of  form,)  are  sold 
at  fourteen  dollars  ; others  again  at  twelve  dollars,  and 
some  as  low  as  six  dollars  ; these  last  do  not  find  their  way 
to  England,  as  the  duty  would  amount  to  more  than  the 


TOUR  IN  THE  COUNTRY. 


147 


prime  cost.  D.  Hernandez  (Dos  Amigos)  employs  about 
fifty  men  in  his  manufactory.  Of  the  best  common  ci- 
gars a good  workman  can  make  a thousand  in  a day  ; of 
the  regalias,  six  hundred  ; so  that  the  daily  issues  from 
this  immense  fabrica  are  about  thirty  thousand  cigars, 
which,  at  fourteen  dollars  per  thousand,  would  give 
nearly  £100  a day.  They  pay  an  export  duty  of  half  a 
dollar  per  thousand,  and  an  import  in  England  of  nine 
shillings.  Allowing  for  freight  and  insurance,  twenty  per 
cent,  profit  to  the  importer,  and  twenty  more  to  the  re- 
tailer, the  best  Havana  cigars  should  be  sold  in  London 
at  £5  per  thousand,  which  is  1 8 s.  per  lb.,  or  about  1 1-4 d. 
a-piece,  instead  of  which  they  are  generally  charged  305. 
to  405.,  and  sometimes  605.  per  lb.,  and  from  3 d.  to  Qd. 
a-piece. 

The  best  tobacco  in  the  island  is  grown  in  the  Vuelta 
Abaja,  or  lower  district,  to  the  west  of  Havana,  between 
that  capital  and  Puerto  del  Principe. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Tour  in  the  Country. — Our  Cortege. — The  Road. — Aspect  of  the  Coun- 
try.— Changes  of  Soil. — Equipment  of  Equestrian  Farmers. — Singu- 
lar Mode  of  Travelling. — Arrival  at  our  Journey’s  End. — Don  Dio- 
nysio  Mantilla’s  House  and  Sugar  Plantation. — Preparation  of  Su- 
gar.— Distillation  of  Brandy  from  Molasses. — Village  of  Marielli. — 
Fine  Prospect. — Friendly  Reception. — Aquatic  Excursion. — District 

of  St.  Marc’s. — Mr.  C ’s  Plantation. — His  Hospitality — Coffee 

Plantation. — Tenure  of  Property  in  Cuba. — Return  to  Havana. — 
Another  Excursion, — Family  of  Montalvo. — Strange  Inconsistencies. 
— A Cuban  Dinner. — The  Dessert. — Rambles  in  the  Neighbourhood 
of  San  Ignacio. — Journey  to  Matanzas. — A pretty  Village. — Speci- 
mens of  Spanish  Beauty. — Rustic  Ball. — Arrival  at  Matanzas. — My 
Host. — Cure  for  Fever. 

On  the  19lh  of  January,  I availed  myself  of  an  oppor- 
tunity offered  by  the  politeness  of  some  of  my  Havana 
friends,  to  make  a short  tour  in  the  country  to  see  some 
coffee  and  sugar  plantations.  I started  at  five  in  the 
morning,  accompanied  by  a Spanish  gentleman,  who 
had  many  acquaintances  in  the  district  which  I proposed 


ASPECT  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 


148 

to  visit.  Our  cortege  is  worthy  of  record  : it  consisted 
of  avolante,  to  which  three  mules  were  attached,  one  in 
the  shafts,  and  two  outriggers,  on  the  left  one  of  which 
sat  our  calesero,  a negro  of  considerable  size,  but  so 
strangely  dressed  that  he  seemed  all  boots  and  hat.  My 
servant  rode  behind  the  carriage  on  a gray  rosinante, 
and  a negro  perched  on  two  huge  packages  placed  across 
a mule  brought  up  the  rear,  and  acted  there  the  some- 
what incongruous  part  of  guide. 

Our  place  of  destination  (which  lay  to  the  west  of 
Havana),  was  a plantation  near  St.  Marc’s,  belonging 
to  a gentleman  named  Don  Dionysio  Mantilla,  who,  ac- 
cording to  the  very  liberal  customs  of  Cuban  hospitality, 
furnished  the  guide,  the  volante,  and  the  mules  or  horses 
requisite  for  bringing  us  to  his  house.  The  road  for  the 
first  two  leagues  was  tolerably  good  ; about  that  distance 
from  Havana  we  passed  the  reservoir,  which,  through 
the  medium  of  an  aqueduct,  supplies  that  city  with  wa- 
ter. We  also  passed  the  line  of  a railroad,  leading  to- 
ward the  interior  ; for  the  consiruction  of  which  the 
labour  is  chiefly  furnished  by  four  or  five  hundred  Irish, 
then  lately  arrived  ; and  the  iron  was  imported,  not  from 
Britain,  but  from  the  United  Slates. 

I soon  began  to  experience  a practical  verification  of 
the  accounts  which  1 had  received  of  the  roads  through 
the  island  ; but  I was  obliged  to  be  much  consoled  by 
the  assurance  that  I was  passing  over  them  at  the  very 
best  season  of  the  year,  and  that  few  were  as  good  as 
the  one  over  which  I was  then  bumping.  Under  these 
circumstances,  of  course,  I viewed  with  proper  indif- 
ference the  stones  of  half-a-yard  high,  and  the  ruts  of 
halfa-yard  deep,  through  which  the  mules  and  the 
wheels  were  scrambling,  and  which  afforded  the  best 
illustration  possible  of  the  old  proverb  of  “ out  of  the 
frying-pan  into  the  fire.” 

The  country  through  which  we  passed  was  extremely 
interesting  to  me  from  its  novelty,  especially  as  I remem- 
bered that  it  was  now  the  very  depth  of  winter.  Fields 
of  maize  and  plantain  were  stretched  all  around,  inter- 
spersed with  palms,  cocoa,  mango,  guayava,  and  a hun- 
dred other  varieties  of  trees,  most  of  them  fructiferous  ; 


EQUESTRIAN  FARMERS. 


149 


tlie  hedges  were  speckled  with  flowers  of  the  most  bril- 
liant hues,  and  even  the  palings  which  fenced  the  fields 
contributed  to  the  beauty  of  the  scene,  as  they  were 
mostly  made  of  living  poles,  bound  together  by  thongs 
of  bark,  and  placed  very  near  each  other:  these  are 
made  of  a wood  called  “ almasigo,”*  and  whenever  it  is 
cut  and  thrust  into  the  earth  it  takes  root  and  sprouts* 
forming  thus  a verdant  fence,  through  which  neither  a 
Scotch  schoolboy  nor  an  Irish-educated  cow  could  gain 
admittance  to  the  fruits  which  it  guarded. 

The  changes  of  soil  were  also  strikingly  numerous. 
On  first  leaving  Havana,  it  was  light  both  in  quality  and 
colour;  after  passing  the  reservoir,  it  became  more  and 
more  red,  till  at  last  it  was  like  a field  of  dark  brick- 
dust;  then  again,  on  the  hills,  it  was  silicions,  and  soon 
after  the  stratification  of  lime  under  the  form  of  coral 
became  evident. 

We  passed  a great  many  huge  unwieldy*  wagons* 
drawn  each  by  three  yoke  of  oxen,  and  about  a dozen 
farmers  mounted  on  the  indefatigable  little  horses  pe- 
culiar to  the  island  : the  riders  were  armed  with  a pair 
of  pistols  in  holsters,  a long  sword,  an  enormous  pair  of 
spurs,  and  a formidable  whip  made  of  twisted  leather 
and  heavily  butted  with  silver  ; moreover,  they  sat  upon 
a sort  of  cushion-saddle,  from  which  depended  two  large 
canvass-bags,  full  of  I know  not  what,  and  from  each 
of  these  again,  about  a score  of  miserable  fowls  were 
hung  by  the  legs,  cackling  their  death-song,  on  the  road 
to  market  !*  At  a tavern  five  leagues  from  the  city,  we 
found  a relay  of  mules,  also  provided  by  our  host ; and 
having  with  some  difficulty  persuaded  them  to  start,  we 
recommenced  our  journey.  I had  here  to  make  a re- 
mark similar  to  that  which  had  occurred  to  me  once  or  - 
twice  in  America,  and  which,  however  strange  it  may 
sound,  is  indubitably  tiue  in  many  parts  of  both  coun- 
tries ; namely,  that  the  farther  you  can  get  from  the  road 

* The  hedges  are  sometimes  of  almasigo,  which  is  a red-looking 
wood,  but  they  are  more  commonly  made  of  pirion,  which  rather  re- 
sembles a young  poplar  than  a willow,  and  is  the  tree  to  which  I al- 
lude above. 

* The  farmers  here  described  are  the  Monteros,  before  alluded  to. 

N* 


150 


MODE  OF  TRAVELLING. 


in  travelling,  the  better  for  you.  I believe  it  is  a local 
law  in  Cuba,  that  a proprietor  must  either  keep  the  pub- 
lic road  running  by  or  through  his  plantation  in  passable 
order  (English,  not  French,  passable),  or  he  must  allow 
the  traveller  to  find  the  best  of  his  way  through  his  fields. 
The  latter  plan  is  almost  invariably  preferred;  so  that 
when  you  find  in  the  road  an  obstacle  too  deep,  or  too 
high  to  be  surmounted  (which  is  of  very  frequent  occur- 
rence), you  desire  your  calesero  to  dismount  and  to  take 
his  observations  ; having  done  which,  he  begins  delibe- 
rately to  pull  down  a wall,  and  as  soon  as  he  has  effect- 
ed a breach  large  enough  to  admit  his  muly  trio  and  the 
volante,  he  drives  coolly  into  the  field,  pursues  his  jour- 
ney, and  of  course  pulls  down  all  the  fences  that  obstruct 
his  subsequent  progress.  It  is  natural  to  suppose  that 
these  proceedings  sometimes  lead  to  an  exchange  of  in- 
civilities between  the  wayfaring  man  and  the  owner  ; but 
the  latter  does  not  put  a rifle  to  his  shoulder  and  shoot 
the  former,  as  he  most  probably  would  do  under  similar 
circumstances  in  the  western  states  of  America.  If  the 
Cuban  farmers  had  the  wit  or  the  industry  to  add  to  their 
fence  a small  ditch,  either  the  roads  in  the  island  must 
be  improved,  or  the  inhabitants  must  give  up  travelling 
otherwise  than  on  horseback. 

After  a pleasant  peristaltic  drive  of  three  or  four  hours, 
we  reached  Don  Dionysio  Mantilla’s  plantation.  The 
house  was  a neat  square  building,  in  the  cottage  style, 
and  on  the  front,  and  at  one  side  was  a small  garden-plot 
of  flowers,  wearing  in  this  delightful  winter  the  holiday 
costume  of  an  European  summer.  The  comforts  and 
decorations  of  the  interior,  bore  witness  to  the  advantage 
derived  by  our  host  from  European  travel.  Opposite  to 
the  front  of  the  house,  and  at  a little  distance  from  it, 
was  an  extensive  range  of  buildings,  containing  all  the 
apparatus  required  in  the  various  processes  of  sugar 
making,  and  now  echoing  to  the  cries  and  shouts  with 
which  the  negro  men  and  boys  accompany  and  cheer 
their  labour. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  I went  all  over  the  establish- 
ment; and  although  the  subject  is  probably  familiar  to* 
many  readers,  I will  give  a short  and  simple  description 


PREPARATION  OF  SUGAR. 


151 


of  it,  because  the  plantation  from  which  I took  it  is  more 
than  usually  neat  and  compendious  in  its  arrangement. 

Under  an  immense  shed,  around  which  are  piled  large 
heaps  of  sugar-cane,  are  two  mills,  each  turned  by  six 
pair  of  oxen  (the  black  urchins  who  sit  upon  the  arms  of 
the  machine  to  drive  them,  keeping  up  an  endless  cla- 
mour.) This  portion  of  the  operation  is  frequently,  and 
more  advantageously  performed  by  steam.  By  each  of 
these  mills  three  large  cylinders  or  rollers  are  made  to 
revolve,  a very  small  space  being  left  between  them ; 
two  or  three  negroes  supply  them  constantly  with  cane, 
which  they  instantly  crush  and  express  all  the  juice, 
while  other  men  or  boys  remove  the  torn  and  broken  re- 
mains of  the  cane.  From  these  rollers  two  pipes  con- 
duct the  saccharine  liquid  into  large  receiving  vats,  where 
it  undergoes  several  processes  of  boiling;  during  which 
the  scum  and  refuse  rising  to  the  top  is  removed  by  ne- 
groes armed  with  large  flat  ladles.  When  sufficiently 
purified  by  this  process,  it  is  filtered  through  bags  of 
woollen  texture,*  and  afterwards  placed  in  large  vases 
formed  like  a flower-pot,  where  it  is  mixed  with  a pecu- 
liar kind  of  clay,  which  contains,  among  other  ingredi- 
ents, some  lime.  These  vases  are  placed  in  holes  ar- 
ranged in  great  numbers  along  the  floor  of  a kind  of  barn, 
below  which  a number  of  inclined  pipes  conduct  the  mo- 
lasses which  drop  through  the  pierced  bottoms  of  the 
vases  into  other  large  vats  ; when  the  molasses  are  thus 
drawn  off  the  vases  are  reversed,  and  the  sugar  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  clay  ; the  brown  sugar-loaf  which  remains 
is  now  divided  into  its  respective  qualities ; the  best  is 
that  which  formed  the  base  of  the  cone,  and  it  gra- 
dually deteriorates  toward  the  apex. 

The  sugar  is  then  spread  for  several  days  to  dry  in  the 
sun  ; after  which  it  is  packed  in  boxes,  containing  each 
eighteen  arrobes,  or  about  four  hundred  weight,  and  is 
ready  for  exportation.  In  the  mean  time  the  molasses 
are  either  submitted  to  another  process,  for  sale  in  that 
condition,  or  are  carried  on  to  the  distillery,  where  they 

* Filtering  is  not  usually  performed  on  the  “ ingenios,”  or  sugar 
plantations,  in  Cuba. 


152 


DISTILLATION  OF  BRANDY. 


are  soon  reduced  to  brandy,  at  the  option  of  the  manu- 
facturer. In  the  course  of  all  these  operations  nothing 
is  lost  or  wasted  ; the  dregs,  &c.,  are  used  to  fatten  or 
feed  the  pigs  and  cattle  ; and  the  bruised  rind  of  the  cane, 
when  withdrawn  from  the  rollers,  is  placed  under  an 
enormous  shed,  where  it  is  allowed  to  dry,  and  becomes 
admirable  fuel  for  supplying  the  furnaces  for  the  boilers 
and  distillation.  The  brandy  made  from  the  sugar  is  by 
no  means  bad  ; indeed,  I tasted  some  from  the  vats  of 
my  host  which  was  much  better  than  the  average  “ real 
French  brandy,”  sold  in  the  taverns  in  England  or  the 
United  States. 

In  order  to  distil  brandy  from  molasses,  the  custom 
is  here  to  mix  the  ingredients  in  the  following  propor- 
tions : — Guarapo  (or  unrefined  syrup),  eight;  molasses, 
three  ; water,  three.  A little  lime  is  of  course  added 
to  these,  under  the  process  of  fermentation.  The  ave- 
rage price  of  the  aguardiente,  or  sugar  brandy,  is  twen- 
ty-five dollars  a pipe  ( i . e.  the  price  given  to  the  manu- 
facturer by  the  merchants);  the  pipe  contains  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  gallons,  which  would  give  a rough 
average  of  one  shilling  sterling  per  gallon  for  this  spirit, 
which  is  very  pure  and  strong.  If  the  price  remained 
for  any  length  of  time  at  the  same  height  as  duiing  my 
visit,  the  sugar  planters  must  accumulate  immense  for- 
tunes ; some  of  them  were  making  annually  four  thou- 
sand boxes,  of  which  the  profits,  after  deducting  one- 
third  for  expenses,  were  calculated  this  year  at  upwards 
of  sixty  thousand  dollars.  One  or  two  on  the  island 
make  annually  from  seven  to  ten  thousand  boxes. 

On  January  20th,  sugar  was  selling  at  twelve  reals  the 
brown,  and  sixteen  reals  the  white,  per  arrobe  (twenty- 
five  pounds) ; a box  contains  about  seventeen  arrobes. 
Be  it  remembered,  that,  whatever  may  be  the  price  of 
sugar,  it  is  the  custom  in  the  Havana  market  to  keep 
the  white  at  four  reals  per  arrobe  above  the  brown. 

After  spending  a day  with  my  host,  I went,  accom- 
panied by  him  and  his  lady,  to  pay  a visit  to  his  brother 
at  a village  called  Marielli.  The  day  was  beautiful,  and 
the  continued  variety  of  the  soil,  and  of  its  productions, 
made  me  indifferent  to  the  jolting  and  shaking  which  I 


FINE  PROSPECT. 


153 


received  on  the  road.  At  length,  we  reached  the  top  of 
a high  hill  which  commands  the  said  village  of  Marielli. 
I have  scarcely  ever  seen  a more  glorious  prospect  than 
that  which  I here  enjoyed.  All  around  me,  in  the  fore- 
ground, were  the  royal  palms,  cocoas,  guayavas,  and 
hundreds  of  other  trees,  some  bearing  fruit,  and  others 
clustered  with  flowers,  even  in  January.*  Below  me  was 
the  noble  bay,  wider  and  longer  than  that  of  Havana, 
and  rendered  more  beautiful  by  the  gentle  curve  wiih 
which  it  sweeps  round  the  wooded  and  fertile  promonto- 
ries forming  its  seaward  opening.  Four  or  five  schoo- 
ners, and  a few  smaller  and  more  picturesque  vessels  were 
lazily  slumbering  on  its  tranquil  bosom,  while  its  inland 
margin  was  enlivened  by  the  passing  and  repassing  of 
many  teams  of  oxen  carrying  boxes  of  sugar,  &c.,  down 
to  the  quay.  The  little  town  itself  is  neat  and  cleanly  ; 
and,  from  the  distance  at  which  I viewed  it,  the  open 
balconies  and  scattered  palms  gave  it  quite  an  Oriental 
appearance.  Behind  it  to  the  westward  and  southward, 
the  hills  rose  with  a gentle  slope,  interspersed  here  and 
there  with  fields  of  maize  or  sugar ; while  the  distant  back- 
ground was  filled  up  with  a wild  and  rugged  mountain 
outline,  without  which,  according  to  my  opinion  (or  rather 
prejudice),  no  landscape  prospect  can  be  perfect. 

After  contemplating  this  scene  for  sometime,  we  de- 
scended the  hill,  and  soon  found  ourselves  in  the  house 
of  my  late  host’s  brother.  We  were  heartily  welcomed 
by  our  new  host,  who  resembled  very  much,  both  in 
plain  hearty  manner,  as  well  as  in  personal  embonpoint, 
an  English  country  gentleman.  1 was  introduced  to 
his  wife,  a very  pretty  little  woman,  apparently  about 
thirty,  but  even  for  that  age  remarkable  in  Cuba  for  her 
clear  complexion,  fine  teeth,  and  general  youthful  ap- 
pearance : my  astonishment  was  extreme  on  learning 
that  she  had  been  the  mother  of  fifteen  or  seventeen 
children  ; of  these  only  five  were  living,  but  (judging 
from  her  appearance)  I thought  it  not  improbable  that 
she  might  have  fifteen  more. 

* It  would  appear  from  the  text,  that  the  climate  of  Cuba  is  very 
similar  to  that  of  Corfu,  as  described  by  the  most  eloquent  and  graphic 
writer  of  old.  ( Vid,e  Horn.  Odyssey,  tj.  115.) 


154 


AQUATIC  EXCURSION. 


After  dinner,  and  just  at  the  close  of  the  day,  we  went 
down  to  the  water-side,  and,  with  a considerable  party, 
both  of  males  and  females,  jumped  into  a boat  and  push- 
ed off  into  the  beautiful  bay.  We  had  dismissed  the 
negro  crew,  and  amateur  rowing  was  the  consequence  ; 
this  may  not  have  increased  our  speed,  but  it  certainly 
tended  much  to  our  comfort.  Sitting  on  a bench  close 
to  a negro  rowing,  would  poison  the  most  spicy  breeze 
that  could  be  wafted  from  the  shores  of  Araby,  and 
would  disturb  the  sweetest  moonlight  reverie  into  which 
a lover  could  fall.  But  I must  not  forget  to  boast  that  my 
rowing  excited  much  admiration  : I could  both  feather  my 
oar  and  bend  my  back,  neither  of  which  performances 
was  comprehensible  to  my  amateur  companions,  although 
one  or  two  of  them  nearly  broke  both  oar  and  back  in  en- 
deavouring to  achieve  them.  The  moon  was  bright,  the 
scene  lovely,  the  party  very  gay,  and  though  my  thoughts 
did  wander  a little  now  and  then  from  them,  they  strayed 
to  subjects  and  to  scenes  sweeter  and  dearer  to  my  con- 
templation than  even  the  beautiful  bay,  through  which 
our  little  bark  now  made  its  rippling  way. 

On  the  following  morning  I went  out  before  breakfast 
to  see  a pottery,  which  was  extensive,  and  apparently 
well  managed.  There  was  little  amusing  or  worthy  of 
record,  excepting  a certain  simple  forcing-pump  lately 
arrived  from  England  : it  was  found  that  the  roof  of  a 
small  temporary  shed  impeded  the  movement  of  the  le- 
ver, and  two  Spaniards,  and  half-a-dozen  negroes,  weru 
employed  in  taking  it  down.  This  operation,  which 
would  have  cost  two  English  labourers  three  minutes, 
occupied  an  hour,  at  the  end  of  which,  the  roof  of  the 
little  shed,  instead  of  being  taken  off  whole,  to  be  re- 
placed at  pleasure,  was  broken  into  a dozen  pieces.  It 
it  is  probable,  judging  by  analogy,  that  this  roof  had  cost 
the  same  number  of  persons  two  day’s  labour  in  its  con- 
struction. 

From  Marielli,  we  proceeded  in  a southerly  direction 
to  the  district  called  St.  Marc’s.  Our  road  led  us  for 
some  miles  over  a rough  and  broken  country  ; we  passed 
a few  sugar  estates,  but  the  scenery  in  general  possessed 
little  interest  or  variety.  After  travelling  about  twelve 


MR.  C *S  PLANTATION.  155 

or  fifteen  miles,  we  came  to  a high  elevated  plain  of  ex- 
tremely red  soil,  and  my  companion  informed  me,  that 
we  were  now  entering  the  district  of  St.  Marc’s.  Our  vo- 
lante  went  smoothly  along  for  many  miles  through  the 
most  beautiful  garden  that  ever  1 beheld  : the  term  may 
appear  strange ; but  it  is  indeed  true,  that  the  whole  dis- 
trict alluded  to  is  one  continuous  garden.  The  sides  of 
the  road  were  lined  with  noble  palms,  and  the  hedges 
were  of  neatly  trimmed  lemon  ; every  quarter  of  an  hour 
we  passed  some  large,  double  iron  gate,  which  formed 
the  entrance  to  a plantation,  called  here  a “ cafetal,”*  and 
the  eye  was  constantly  reposing  on  a variety  of  luxuriant 
verdure,  enlivened  even  at  this  season  by  many  fruits 
and  flowers. 

At  length  we  came  to  the  plantation  of  Mr.  C , the 

gentleman  at  whose  house  we  proposed  to  spend  a day. 
We  found  the  family  at  dinner;  and  after  the  usual  form 
of  introducing  me  had  been  gone  through,  we  were  in- 
vited to  sit  down  at  the  table.  There  was  neither  cere- 
mony nor  ostentation,  but  much  politeness  and  hospita- 
lity. Our  venerable  host  was  one  of  the  most  extraordi- 
nary instances  of  a gay  and  healthy  old  age  that  I ever 
saw.  The  exact  number  of  his  years  was  not  ascertain- 
ed, but  they  were  known  to  exceed  eighty-six.  He  rises 
in  the  morning  at  four  or  five,  goes  all  round  his  estates 
on  foot,  eats  a hearty  breakfast,  and  spends  the  greater 
part  of  the  day  among  his  trees,  fruits,  &c.  1 believe  he 

is  of  French  origin,  and  was  a resident  in  St.  Domingo 
till  the  revolution  in  that  island,  since  which  he  has  been 
in  Cuba.  His  conversation  is  lively,  and  is  the  most 
amusing  mixture  possible  of  French  and  Spanish.  As 
far  as  I could  discover,  his  prejudices  do  not  lean  to  ei- 
ther language,  and  in  every  sentence  he  uses  nearly  an 
equal  number  of  words  belonging  to  each.  The  rest  of 
the  party  consisted  of  his  son  and  daughter-in-law,  a very 
pretty  pleasing  woman,  with  two  or  three  beautiful  chil- 
dren. 

* The  Cuban  estates,  or  country-seats,  are  variously  denominated, 
according  to  the  produce  raised  upon  them  : thus,  a sugar  estate  is 
called  an  “ ingenio  a coffee  plantition,  “cafetal;”  a farm  for  the 
cultivation  of  yucca,  maize,  corn,  t'v.c.,  “ estaneia,”  or  “ sitio  a park 
for  breeding  and  rearing  cattle  and  horses,  “ potrero.” 


156 


Coffee  plantation. 


After  dinner  we  drove  out  to  see  a “ cafetal,”  called 
Ponton,  which  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  island.  A short 
description  of  it  will  serve  to  illustrate  the  general  dispo- 
sition of  these  garden  estates.  Indeed,  one  or  two  par- 
ticulars which  I shall  introduce  do  not  occur  in  this  plan- 
tation, but  as  they  are  usual  in  the  district,  I shall  include 
them,  as  the  object  is  to  give  an  idea  of  the  general  cha- 
racter of  a plantation  in  St.  Marc’s.  You  enter  by  a mag- 
nificent avenue  of  palms,  from  fifty  to  a hundred  yards 
wide,  on  each  side  of  which  are  two  narrower  parallel 
avenues,  like  those  ot  the  long  walk  at  Windsor.  Through 
the  intervals  of  these  palms  you  see  a boundless  range  of 
verdure  : below  are  the  coffee  plants,  not  very  unlike  the 
Portugal  laurel  in  Britain,  only  more  regular  in  form,  as 
well  as  more  delicate  in  appearance  ; above  this,  the 
huge  leaves  of  the  plantain  spread  their  shade,  and  wave 
their  feathery  tops  in  protection  of  the  more  precious 
shrub  from  the  rays  of  the  sun  : numberless  trees  of  va- 
rious kinds,  mostly  fructiferous,  are  scattered  in  every 
direction  ; and  the  eye  experiences  nothing  like  lassitude. 
The  avenues  beforementioned  vary  much  in  length,  some 
being  half  a mile,  others  as  much  as  two  miles. 

On  arriving  at  the  house,  which  is  generally  a low 
comfortable  building  in  the  cottage  style,  you  see  before 
it,  and  divided  by  a lawn,  a large  range  of  buildings  for 
the  reception  and  stowage  of  the  coffee,  for  the  husking 
it,  and  several  large  areas  of  hard-baked  clay,  surrounded 
by  low  walls,  where  it  is  dried  in  the  sun.  A little  from 
this  there  is  generally  a square  or  an  oblong  space,  round 
which  the  negro  huts  are  built : these  have  their  doors 
and  windows  opening  on  the  inside,  and  the  square  is 
fastened  at  night  by  a high  iron  grate.  In  addition  to 
these  securities,  there  are  generally  one  or  twro  watch- 
men, and  some  large  dogs  which  are  only  loosed  at  night, 
and  which  would  pull  down  any  negro  whom  they  could 
come  at.  However,  in  spite  of  these  precautions,  many 
have  escaped  to  the  mountains,  where  they  live  in  bands, 
in  accessible  fastnesses  and  jungles,  existing  miserably 
upon  wild  fruits,  and  upon  the  scanty  gleanings  of  rob- 
bery or  hunting  that  may  now  and  then  fall  in  their 
way. 


COFFEE  PLANTATION. 


157 


To  proceed  with  our  plantation.  Around  the  house  is 
generally  a parterre  of  flowers  ; in  that  of  Ponton  there 
is  a very  neatly  finished  little  labyrinth  of  lemon,  in  the 
centre  of  which  is  a marble  statue,  which,  as  I could  not 
make  out  what  deity  it  was  intended  to  represent,  is  pro- 
bably the  goddess  of  puzzles.  Many  of  these  must  be 
extremely  beautiful  in  spring,  for,  even  at  this  ungenial 
season,  there  were  a great  variety  of  sweet  odours  and 
colours. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  house  from  the  above-de- 
scribed entrance,  is  another  avenue  leading  in  the  con- 
trary direction,  composed  of  mango  trees,  which  form  an 
impenetrable  shade ; and  from  the  wings  of  the  house, 
at  right  angles  to  these  approaches,  are  two  other  ave- 
nues of  almond,  lemon,  and  orange  trees,  all  bending  un- 
der their  load  of  fruit.  You  drive  on  through  these  ave- 
nues till  you  come  to  the  extremity  of  the  garden,  which 
is  at  the  extremity  of  the  estate,  and  you  enter  another 
similarly  beautiful.  Nothing  but  water  and  mountains 
are  wanted  to  make  it  an  Eden. 

Most  of  these  estates  have  pretty  names,  as  it  appears 
to  have  been  a graceful  and  usual  compliment  among  the 
Spanish  nobility  and  gentry,  when  they  married,  to  call 
the  estate  after  the  Christian  name  of  the  bride ; e.  g . 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  my  present  tour  were  several, 
with  “ La  Matilda,”  (the  property  of  the  Marquis  of  Ar- 
cos,)  “ La  Catalina,” — “ La  Seraphina,”  &c.,  written  in 
iron  or  gilt  letters  on  the  entrance.  This  district  of  the 
island  will  soon  be  even  more  beautiful  than  it  is  now ; 
for  it  has  been  lately  discovered  that  the  coffee  can 
scarcely  be  too  much  shaded,  and  I passed  through  one 
plantation  where  it  was  reared  under  the  natural  timber: 
thus,  the  whole  estate  was  a continued  wood  of  every 
variety  of  fruit  and  forest  tree.  Among  these  were  scat- 
tered a great  many  plantains,  and  below  all  a conti- 
nuous dark  green  sea  of  coffee.  In  the  spring  and  sum- 
mer, when  this  last  is  in  flower,  I defy  the  most  aromatic 
imagination  to  conceive  the  effect. 

The  tenure  of  property  in  Cuba  is  not  very  dissimilar 
to  that  in  England.  Most  of  the  estates  in  the  best  fa- 
milies are  *'  vinculados,”  or  entailed.  This  entail  is  even 
Vol.  II.— O 


158 


TENURE  Of*  PROPERS’!?. 


more  strict  than  that  of  Scotland  ; it  can  be  broken  by  no 
family  arrangement,  nor  by  any  court  of  law,  but  only 
by  decree  of  the  king  of  Spain.  Besides  the  tenure  of 
actual  property,  there  are  also  some  rights  of  seignory, 
which  arose  in  the  following  manner  : The  king  form- 
erly made  grants  of  land  in  this  island  ; these  were  al- 
ways measured  by  the  radius  of  a circle  of  certain  di- 
mensions, drawn  from  a certain  spot  mentioned  as  cen- 
tre. These  estates  so  granted  were  usually  of  one  or 
two  leagues  radius,  or,  of  course,  two  or  four  leagues  in 
diameter.  The  former  are  called  “ corrales,”  and  the 
latter  “ haciendas.”*  The  grantees,  either  from  living 
in  Spain,  or  from  other  causes,  being  unable  to  cultivate 
their  large  tracts  of  land,  divided  them  into  smaller  lots 
and  re-granted  them;  at  \Ahich  time  they  were  valued, 
and  upon  this  valuation  the  original  grantees  received  a 
per  centage,  which,  as  established  by  law,  must  be  not 
less  than  five  and  not  more  than  six  per  cent,  per  annum. 

As  long  as  these  fines  are  duly  paid,  all  the  right  or 
interest  of  the  original  grantees  in  the  land  ceases ; but 
upon  non-payment  they  may  bring  a suit  of  ejectment, 
(a  “ pleyto  de  lanzamiento,”)  and  re-enter  upon  them.t 
It  may  be  easily  imagined,  that,  with  the  carelessness 
with  which  royal  grants  of  colonial  land  are  usually  made, 
and  the  imperfect  state  of  maps  and  surveys  in  the  island, 
these  circular  grants  frequently  intersected  each  other, 
and  two  grantees  of  a hacienda  found  themselves,  with 
the  centres  of  their  respective  domains,  only  one  league 
instead  of  two  apart.  These  cases  have  afforded  an  am- 
ple field  of  employment  for  the  lawyers  ; a race  of  wor- 
thies, who,  if  I am  rightly  informed,  yield  to  none  of 
their  brother  land-sharks  in  any  part  of  the  world  in  pet- 
tifogging, and  every  branch  of  licensed  roguery.  The 
centres  of  these  circles  are  called  the  “ asiento,”  or  seat ; 

* The  generic  term  for  all  these  is  Hacienda. 

t I am  not  quite  clear  as  to  the  law  on  this  point,  as  one  proprietor 
assured  me  that  the  grantor  could  not  re-enter,  but  could  force  a sale 
under  warrant  of  the  court ; and  that  his  claims  had  precedence  of  those 
of  all  other  creditors,  even  supposing  the  king  or  government  to  be 
among  them  ; of  course,  the  purchaser  becomes  bound  in  the  same 
terms. 


ANOTHER  EXCURSION. 


159 


and  in  addition  to  those  abovementioned  is  another  es- 
tate called  “ hato,”  which  is  of  a radius  of  three  leagues  ; 
but  these  are  extremely  rare. 

After  spending  a day  and  a half  in  this  delightful  dis- 
trict, we  prepared  to  retire  to  Don  Dionysio  Mantilla’s. 
Accordingly,  we  committed  ourselves  to  the  tender  mer- 
cies of  our  calesero,  who  unfortunately  had  taken  brandy 
enough  to  make  him  insensible  to  the  dangers  and  perils 
of  ruts,  stumps,  stones,  &c.  In  despite  of  our  entrea- 
ties, he  galloped  over  these  most  execrable  roads,  and 
we  were  half  inclined  to  believe,  that  he  had  laid  a vra- 
ger  that  he  would  break  our  volante,  and  a few  of  our 
limbs,  before  he  returned.  There  was  no  alternative  for 
us  but  to  submit,  or  shoot  him  ; we  preferred  the  former 
plan,  and  bore  our  shaking  with  Christian  philosophy. 
Thanks  to  Providence,  and  none  to  the  calesero,  we  did 
arrive  in  safety,  and  on  the  following  morning  returned 
to  Havana. 

I there  found  that  some  of  my  obliging  friends  had 
completed  their  arrangements  for  taking  me  to  see  an- 
other part-of  the  island,  to  the  south-east  of  the  city, 
called  here  the  Vuelta  Arriba,  in  contradistinction  to  the 
Vuelta  Abaja  before  mentioned.  Accordingly,  we  started 
in  two  volantes,  and  reached  before  dinner  the  sugar  es- 
tate of  a gentleman,  whose  acquaintance  I had  made  in 
Havana.  This  was  a large  establishment,  but  different 
in  nothing  from  that  before  mentioned,  excepting  that 
the  cane  was  pressed  by  a steam-engine;  this  last,  how- 
ever, was  not  quite  completed,  and  it  was,  of  course,  the 
constant  theme  and  occupation  of  those  interested  in  the 
“ ingenio.”  Accordingly,  I got  very  tired  of  the  ma- 
chine, and  agreed  willingly  to  the  proposal  of  one  of  my 
friends  to  visit  a Spanish  family  a few  leagues  distant. 

The  scenery  which  we  passed  through  on  this  little 
excursion,  was  as  different  from  that  of  St.  Marc’s  as  the 
highlands  are  from  Kent : but  to  my  taste  it  was  more 
beautiful,  because  it  was  a varied  succession  of  wooded 
hills  and  large  valleys,  dotted  with  palms,  and  rich  with 
endless  fields  of  sugar-cane.  To  say  anything  about 
the  roads  is  useless  ; words  worse  than  “ execrable  ” are 


160 


FAMILY  OF  MONTALVO. 


not  pretty  to  write,  and  even  when  written  might  convey 
but  a feeble  notion  of  the  state  of  the  roads  in  Cuba. 

The  family  of  Montalvo,  which  I was  now  about  to 
visit,  is  one  of  the  first  and  most  wealthy  in  the  island. 
They  received  me  with  the  same  hospitality  which  I have 
universally  experienced  here,  and  I was  glad  to  obtain  so 
good  an  opportunity  of  observing  the  domestic  manners 
and  country  habits  of  the  best  Criollo  society.  There 
were  many  ladies  in  the  family,  two  or  three  married, 
but  most  of  them  young,  and  there  was  no  steam-engine  ; 
so  that  we  had  a chance  of  general  conversation.  One 
of  the  most  striking  features  of  the  domestic  economy  of 
this,  as  of  all  other  large  establishments  in  Cuba,  is  the 
immense  and  apparently  useless  number  of  house  ser- 
vants. I learned  that  between  a hundred  and  a hundred 
and  twenty  mouths  were  daily  fed,  and  yet  the  waiting 
at  table  was  not  near  so  convenient  or  so  efficient  as  that 
of  an  English  country  gentleman's  house  with  a butler 
and  two  footmen.  Black  boys  and  girls  were  hovering 
around  the  room,  yet  they  never  anticipated  a want  on 
the  part  of  the  guests,  scarcely  ever  supplied  it  when 
expressed.  To  get  some  salt  was  often  the  result  of 
five  minutes’  reiterated  entreaty  ; and  after  dinner,  when 
the  coffee  was  served,  the  whole  company,  more  than 
once,  wailed  ten  minutes  before  they  could  procure  either 
sugar  or  milk.  These  mixtures  of  the  magnificent,  and 
the  “ mesquin,”  these  strange  inconsistencies,  are  among 
the  remarkable  features  of  society  in  this  Spanish  island. 
The  doors  are  all  open ; windows,  there  are  none  ; 
the  mastiffs,  curs,  and  puppies,  roam  at  pleasure  through 
the  tile-paved  saloons,  and  when  one  of  the  young  ladies 
sits  down  to  play  or  sing  at  the  piano-forte,  half-a-dozen 
slovenly  dressed  black  girls  loiter  near  the  instrument  to 
listen,  while  two  or  three  others,  belong  to  the  nursery, 
bring  their  squalling  charge  to  disturb  and  drown  the 
music.  The  quadruped  domestics  of  the  family  are  upon 
a similar  scale  to  the  biped  establishment:  e.g.  I need 
only  say  that,  in  a small  enclosure  near  the  house,  were 
ninety  volante  horses  and  mules,  fattening  upon  maize 
and  the  various  parts  of  the  sugar-cane  which  are  allotted 
for  their  use. 


A CUBAN  DINNER. 


161 


The  average  routine  of  a Cuban  dinner  is  as  follows  : 
First,  a soup,  either  of  vermicelli  or  vegetables,  generally 
containing  a good  deal  of  bread ; then  comes  the  pride 
of  Spain,  the  olla,  a kind  of  boulii,  which  is  eaten  with 
a mixed  dish  of  vegetables,  such  as  sweet  potatoes,  cab- 
bage, and  a kind  of  pea,*  which  last  is  apt  to  be  large, 
yellow,  tough,  and  dry  ; then  come  several  dishes  of  hash 
and  “ emince,”t  mostly  dressed  with  eggs,  and  flavoured 
with  garlic  and  onions  : fried  plantains,  yams,  Irish  or 
Guernsey  potatoes,  are  on  the  table  ; two  large  dishes 
of  rice  occupy  an  important  place,  one  plain  boiled, 
another  flavoured  with  the  gravy  of  two  or  three  fowls 
which  are  boiled  in  it,  and  also  seasoned  with  garlic. 
Among  the  favourite  side-dishes,  are  dried  beef,|  grated 
and  served  up  warm  with  a sauce  ; cotelletes  de  mouton  ; 
a dish  of  boiled  and  seasoned  tripe,  or  “ pied  de  veaux 
and  small  croquettes  of  brains,  which  last  are  very  good. 

When  all  these  trifles  have  been  disposed  of,  the  at- 
tention of  the  company  is  called  to  roast  guinea-fowl, 
roast  turkey,  and  sometimes  a dish  of  fish  ; unless  the 
house  be  close  to  the  sea,  this  last  is  rarely  presented, 
as  it  is  impossible,  owing  to  the  climate,  to  keep  it  fresh 
many  hours — of  course,  I need  not  add  that,  in  a Catho- 
lic country,  there  are  also  several  modes  used  of  serving 
it  up  sailed  ; then  (after  all  these  skirmishes  have  been 
disposed  of)  comes  the  tug  of  war,  in  the  shape  of  a joint 
of  beef  at  the  top,  and  another  of  roast  mutton  at  the 
bottom,  and  a large  salad  in  the  middle.  The  beef  is 
generally  but  poor  in  flavour  ; the  mutton  is  excellent, 
although  they  commit  the  error,  common  to  the  whole 
western  world,  of  killing  it  too  young,  and  although  they 
are  generally  obliged  to  eat  it  a few  hours  after  it  is  kill- 
ed ; notwithstanding  these  disadvantages,  it  is  sweet, 
tender,  and  well-flavoured.  If  the  dinner  is  given  after 
the  real  Criollo  fashion,  the  party  here  breaks  up  and  re- 

* Spanish  “garbanzo.” 

t Picadillo. 

t Tasajo,  imported  from  Buenos  Ayres  when  wanted  for  the  con- 
sumption of  the  negroes,  and  brought  from  a place  called  Cayo  Romano, 
on  the  north-eastern  part  of  Cuba,  when  intended  for  the  use  of  iheir 
masters. 


0 


162 


THE  DESSERT. 


tires  for  a quarter  of  an  hour  to  the  garden,  or  to  the 
shaded  wooden  galleries  round  the  house ; the  gentle- 
men light  their  cigars,  and  the  ladies  chat  among  them- 
selves. 

After  this  quarter  of  an  hour’s  rest,  the  black  major- 
domo  again  summons  the  guests  to  table,  when  the  des- 
sert is  served,  generally  accompanied  by  a cheese  from 
Old  or  New  England.  Here  the  richness  and  fertility  of 
the  island  is  fully  displayed  ; the  number  and  variety  of 
the  sweetmeats  is  perfectly  astonishing.  Jt  is  usqjess  to 
record  the  names  of  all  these  fruits,  even  if  I knew  them, 
because  many  of  them  are  totally  unknown  in  Britain, 
and  untranslateable  into  our  language.*  I have  tasted 
them  all,  and  have  found  none  so  pleasant  to  my  palate 
as  the  one  so  familiar  to  sweetmeat  lovers  in  England, 
under  the  name  of  “ Guava  ” jelly.  (We  have  treated 
this  word  with  much  leniency,  considering  our  usual 
habits,  when  we  naturalize  names,  as  we  have  only  lopped 
one  syllable,  its  proper  designation  being  Guayava.) 
Other  dishes  there  are,  however,  the  very  sight  or  de- 
scription of  which  might  make  the  youthful  habitants  of 
a nursery,  or  the  mischievous  tenantry  of  a boarding- 
school,  male  or  female,  lick  their  lips  for  half  an  hour ; 
such  as  “ sweet  cakes  of  maize,  to  be  eaten  with  the 
purest  extract  of  sugar,  resembling  molasses  ” (called 
here  “ miel  ”);  “ grated  cocoa-nut  bathed  in  lemon  or  cit- 
ron syrup,”  a kind  of  marmalade  made  from  a fruit  called 
mamraei ; various  preparations  of  “ ciruelas,”  or  plums 
preserved ; and  many  others  which  1 am  unwilling  to 
note  down,  lest  some  unfortunate  young  master  or  miss 
should  happen  to  cast  his  or  her  eye  on  this  page,  and 

* Some  of  these  fruits  are  as  follows  : — 

Mammei , — about  the  size  and  shape  of  a small  melon. 

Gnanavana — a large  fruit  with  prickly  rind  (chiefly  used  in  making 
ice  or  sherbet). 

Sapote — called  in  Jamaica,  star-apple,  something  like  a brown  Beurre 
(commonly  called  in  English,  “ Bury  ” pear). 

Caimito — a small  fruit  containing  a sweet,  brownish,  purple  pulp,  and 
two  or  three  stones. 

Papaya  (Pawpaw  of  Jamaica) — this  fruit  is  similar  to,  but  ten  times 
as  large  as  that  which  goes  by  the  same  name  in  America. 

Ngranjas  de  China , and  other  varieties  of  oranges,  as  well  as  sweet 
lemons  and  limes. 


RAMBLES  NEAR  SAN  IGNACIO* 


163 


“pine  with  vain  desire”  for  these  transatlantic  sweets. 
The  dessert  being  disposed  of,  coffee  is  served,  gene- 
rally without  milk,  and  the  lords  of  the  creation  again  be- 
take themselves  to  their  philosophy — I mean  their  cigars. 
Such  is  a tolerably  correct  description  of  an  average 
Cuban  dinner-party. 

There  is  one  part  of  the  dietetic  system  in  this  island, 
which,  although  perfectly  new  to  me,  pleased  me  after 
the  first  few  days  very  much  : the  dinner  is  generally 
about  half-past  two  or  three  o’clock,  and  after  it  nothing 
more  is  eaten  till  bed-time,  when  a cup  of  hot  “cafe  au 
lait”  is  offered  to  those  who  choose  it.  This  plan  of  ab- 
stinence during  the  later  hours  of  evening  is  extremely 
conducive  to  health  ; it  renders  sleep  light  and  refresh- 
ing, and  the  sleeper  wakens  early  in  the  morning  with  a 
cool  head  and  a clear  eye.  How  far  preferable  to  the 
late  dinners  in  England,  or  the  heavy  suppers  in  Ame- 
rica ! yet  I must  own  that  I have  never,  even  at  this  cool 
season,  known  in  Cuba,  what  it  is  to  feel  the  keen  healthy 
appetite,  which  has  been  my  almost  constant  companion 
in  other  countries  ; nor  do  I think  that  any  reasonable  in- 
ducement, except  being  in  love  (and  that  is  not  one), 
could  prevail  upon  me  to  spend  a summer  there. 

I took  some  long  rambles  in  the  neighbourhood  of  San 
Ignacio,  (for  so  is  Don  Juan  Montalvo’s  “ingenio” 
named),  and  enjoyed  many  scenes  of  beauty.  All  around 
was  a little  undulating  world  of  woods,  covered  with 
every  variety  of  foliage,  and  sugar-fields  studded  with 
palms;  while  from  the  summit  of  one  commanding  hill, 
I caught  a glimpse  of  that  magnificent  ocean  which  has 
existed  ever  since  old  Time  began  his  course,  and  will 
exist  until  he  ends  it — the  theme  of  every  poet,  and  the 
field  of  meditation  for  every  son  of  earth  who  has  a heart 
to  feel  or  a mind  to  reflect. 

I visited,  in  company  with  my  host,  many  of  the 
neighbouring  sugar  estates,  on  one  of  which  was  a steam- 
engine  ; to  my  great  relief  I found  that  it  required  neither 
repair  nor  amendment ; it  performed  its  duty  perfectly, 
and  squeezed  out  as  much  saccharine  juice,  for  its  satis- 
fied lord,  as  could  have  been  expressed  by  twenty  yokes 
of  oxen.  The  engine,  engineer,  and  all  the  apparatus 


164 


JOURNEY  TO  MATANZAS. 


were  English  ; and  the  owner,  who  had  been  some  years 
in  Britain,  had  made  a very  neat  and  efficient  dam  on  a 
small  stream  near  his  house,  which  supplied  abundance 
of  water.  From  this  we  visited  a “ cafetal  ” belonging 
to  my  hosts,  where  they  reside  a few  months  of  every 
year.  The  house  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  summit 
of  a hill,  on  both  sides  of  which  were  extensive  hanging- 
gardens,  laid  out,  originally,  with  much  taste  : there  were 
also  long  green  sward  walks,  terminating  in  arbours  and 
bowers  of  roses,  even  now  in  full  flower ; but  the  bowers 
wore  a deserted  appearance,  and  the  neglected  roses 
seemed  to  mourn  the  absence  of  the  “Catalina”  or 
“ Conchita”  who  should  attend  and  support  them. 

After  spending  two  or  three  days  very  pleasantly  Rt 
San  Ignacio,  I resolved,  although  my  kind  hosts  pressed 
me  to  stay  longer,  to  proceed  to  Matanzas,  a well-known 
seaport  about  seven  leagues  distant  from  their  “ ingenio.” 
The  roads  were  too  bad  for  a volante  ; I was  accordingly 
furnished  with  a pony,  and  my  guide,  a negro  boy  of 
about  sixteen  years  old,  carried  my  small  portmanteau  on 
a venerable  rocinante,  which  apparently  had  considerable 
advantage  of  his  rider  in  point  of  age.  The  day  was 
fine,  and  I ambled  slowly  along,  for  three  very  good 
reasons: — first,  my  horses  could  go  no  faster;  secondly, 
the  scenery  was  beautiful,  and  induced  its  natural  accom- 
paniments of  alternate  musing  and  admiration;  thirdly, 
I had  contrived  to  pick  up  a kind  of  low  fever,  or  general 
feeling  of  pain  and  oppression,  which,  although  not  alarm- 
ing, was  unfavourable  to  rapid  movements  or  violent  ex- 
ertion. 

Having  given  these  three  excellent  excuses  for  riding 
slowly,  I will  pursue  my  easy  way.  I was  obliged  to 
call  up  my  guide  repeatedly,  for  even  my  moderate  amble 
seemed  to  distress  his  rocinante ; and  the  road  made 
many  turns,  and  often  branched  to  the  right  or  left  to 
avoid  the  abrupt  hills  through  which  we  were  travelling. 
On  these  occasions  the  negro  urchin  generally  contrived 
to  steal  a march  upon  me : he  allowed  me  to  choose  my 
own  road;  I looked  back  to  him  from  the  one  which  I 
pursued,  and  receiving  no  sign  in  answer,  concluded  that 
all  was  right.  When  he  arrived  at  the  place  where  the 


SPANISH  BEAUTIES. 


165 


roads  forked,  I saw  him  coolly  following  a different  one  : 
of  course,  I had  to  return  and  overtake  him  ; and  when  I 
endeavoured  to  expostulate,  and  explain  to  him  that  he 
ought  to  have  directed  me  better,  I received  a satisfactory 
and  voluble  answer  in  some  African  language,  whether 
Congou  or  Mozambique  I am  not  learned  enough  to 
decide. 

At  length  I came  to  a very  pretty  village,  about  half- 
way of  my  day’s  journey.  The  houses  were  neat  and 
newly  whitewashed  ; just  above  them  rose  the  verdant 
side  of  a wrooded  hill,  and  below,  a little  winding  brook 
stole  quietly  along  through  its  sugar-clad  banks.  While 
riding  slowly  down  the  single  street,  I passed  a house 
before  which  stood  two  figures,  which  I shall  not 
easily  forget : they  were  those  of  two  girls,  one  might  be 
sixteen,  the  other  eighteen  ; they  were  dressed  plainly  in 
white,  and  a few  wild  flowers  were  mingled  with  their 
black  and  braided  hair.  I have  never  seen  two  such 
specimens  of  Spanish  beauty.  The  younger  and  smaller 
one  had  an  oval  face  with  pencilled  brows,  eyes  that 
looked  the  very  soul  of  mirth,  and  a dimple  on  each 
cheek,  that  might  have  been  a cradle  for  the  Muse  of 
l’Allegro  to  sleep  in.  Her  taller  companion,  with  hair 
and  brows  as  beautifully  black,  had  a more  expressive 
face  ; her  eyes  were  larger  and  more  lustrous,  their 
lashes  much  longer,  her  nose  more  regularly  formed,  and 
her  rich  full  lips  were  just  parted  enough  to  display  their 
pearly  treasure.  Her  neck  and  bosom  were  in  the  ful- 
lest proportions  of  youthful  beauty,  and  it  seemed  a 
wonder  how  so  glorious  a figure  could  stand  secure  on 
the  taper  little  pedestal  which  peeped  from  beneath  her 
gown.  If  her  companion  was  the  goddess  of  mirth,  she 
seemed  the  goddess  of  pleasure  ; and  though  these  words 
are  often  considered  as  very  similar,  if  not  synonymous, 
he  who  has  passed  the  age  of  boyhood  and  still  considers 
them  so,  is  very  much  to  be  pitied,  or,  as  some  philoso- 
phers might  argue,  very  much  to  be  envied.  The  com- 
plexions of  both  were  of  clear  and  transparent  olive,  to 
which  the  last  crimson  rays  of  a setting  sun  lent  a warm 
and  glowing  tint. 

I involuntarily  reined  up  my  horse,  and  looked,  per- 


166 


RUSTIC  BALL. 


haps,  more  admiringly  than  politely ; my  tongue  seemed 
to  be  under  the  same  spell  as  my  eyes,  for  1 said  in  the 
best  Spanish  of  which  I was  capable,  “ Good  evening, 
Senoritas  !”  and  “ oh  ! how  lovely  !”  Each  looked  at  the 
other,  both  blushed,  and  both  laughed.  I had  no  excuse 
for  longer  stay,  so  I urged  forward  my  steed ; but  I am 
afraid  that  my  spell-bound  eyes  lingered  still  on  the  spot 
where  ihey  stood,  and  that  I rode  out  of  the  village  like  a 
mountebank,  with  my  head  to  my  horse’s  tail.  Strange  is 
the  power,  the  fascination,  the  mystery  of  beauty!  By- 
rot*  is  right,  and  his  much  criticised  line,  “ The  music 
breathing  from  that  face,”  is  sense  as  well  as  poetry. 
Among  the  many  connecting  links  between  beauty  and 
music,  not  the  least  powerful  are  those  of  harmony  and 
association,  which  belong  equally  to  both  ; and  thus  I 
found  myself  musing  for  many  lazy  miles,  not  so  much 
over  the  faces  and  forms  w7hich  I had  just  left,  as  over 
those  far  more  distant  both  in  time  and  space  which  they 
suggested ; the  chord  was  touched,  and  its  vibrations 
trembled  even  to  my  heart’s  core. 

I will  pass  over  my  musings  for  the  next  hour  or  two, 
which  went  on  undisturbed,  under  the  favourable  influence 
of  a bright  moonshine,  a lazy  horse,  bad  roads,  and  beau- 
tiful scenery.  I was  awakened  from  my  reverie  by  the 
sounds  of  music  : these  I could  never  pass  unnoticed  ; 
I found  that  they  proceeded  from  a house  by  the  road- 
side, where  thirty  or  forty  of  the  country  people  were 
dancing  to  a guitar  and  flageolet.  Jumping  off  my  horse, 
I entered  the  ball-room  ; and  have  no  hesitation  in  saying, 
that  my  entrance  occasioned  as  great  a sensation  as  that 
of  the  young  duke  at  the  country  ball  in  Yorkshire.  I 
happened  to  have  on  my  head  a Scottish  bonnet ; the 
rest  of  my  apparel  was  of  the  linen  usually  worn  in 
Cuba.  The  dancing  ceased,  and  I was  immediately 
surrounded  by  the  whole  contents  of  the  room,  male  and 
female.  All  spoke  at  once,  and  inquired  in  macada- 
mized English  ( broken  is  too  feeble  an  expression),  scraps 
of  French,  and  various  dialects  of  nigger  Spanish,  who, 
and  what  I was,  whence  I came,  whither  wras  I go- 
ing, &c. 

I was  baited  by  this  motley  circle  for  about  ten  mi- 


RUSTIC  BALL. 


167 


flutes  ; but  as  I did  not  get  angry  or  vexed  as  they  ex- 
pected, but  puffed  my  cigar  slowly  the  whole  time,  they 
insisted  upon  my  dancing.  1 said  I did  not  understand 
their  dances,  but  that  I would  join  them  in  any  kind  of 
English  dance.  Of  course  I did  not  expect  to  be  taken 
at  my  word,  when  to  my  horror  they  led  up  to  me  a 
young  English  dame  of  forty,  who  expressed  her  wil- 
lingness to  “ take  the  floor”  with  me.  Accordingly,  she 
ordered  the  musicians  to  strike  up,  which  they  did,  and 
produced  a most  outlandish  tune,  to  which  it  seemed  to 
me  impossible  to  adapt  any  dance,  English,  Scotch,  or 
Irish,  that  ever  I had  seen.  My  fair  partner  looked  at 
me  with  a confidential  air  of  triumph,  saying  at  the  same 
time,  “ You  know  that  tune  ?”  I guessed  what  a storm 
my  reply  would  raise ; but  prompted  by  my  love  of 
truth,  I mustered  a due  proportion  of  courage  and  hu- 
mility, and  answered  “ No,  madam.”  She  elevated  her 
nose  and  eyebrows,  in  supreme  contempt,  and  said, 
“ Then  you  know — nothing.”  I replied  in  the  same  tone 
as  before,  “ Madame,  I never  made  any  pretensions  to 
much  knowledge.”  In  spite  of  my  humility,  she  tossed 
her  head  in  disdain  and  left  me. 

Having  thus  lost  my  fair  ally  (who,  by  the  by,  was 
an  American  and  not  an  Englishwoman,)  I was  again 
assailed  by  my  merry  group  of  tormentors,  among  whom 
was  a young  man  whose  vocation  it  was  impossible  to 
mistake,  and  who  pressed  me  very  much  to  dance  a horn- 
pipe, setting  me  the  example  by  capering  about  the 
room  himself.  This  youth  seemed  to  be  a little  superior 
in  rank  to  his  companions  ; he  was  dressed  in  a straight 
cut  sporting-coat  with  gilt  buttons  : his  trousers  of  linen, 
fitted  so  close  to  the  leg  as  to  show  its  form,  which  un- 
fortunately was  none  of  the  straightest;  he  had  a riding- 
whip  in  his  hand  ; and  on  his  head  a low-crowned  broad- 
brimmed  straw  hat,  cocked  a little  on  one  side,  betraying 
thereby  that  the  wearer’s  hair,  though  a Spaniard,  was 
as  fair  as  that  of  a Norwegian.  Who  does  not  recog- 
nize even  this  rough  imperfect  portrait?  Olher  profes- 
sional characters  it  may  be  sometimes  difficult  to  dis- 
tinguish, but  the  spruce  clerk  in  a counting-house  is  the 
same  in  England,  Germany,  America,  and  Cuba. 


168 


MY  HOST. 


After  performing  several  little  evolutions  a la  Taglioni 
to  encourage  me,  the  dandy  happened  to  inquire  where  I 
proposed  to  stay  or  lodge  in  Matanzas.  When  I told 
him  “ en  casa  del  Don  S.  D ,”  astonishment,  not  un- 

mixed with  confusion,  was  deeply  depicted  on  his  droll 
and  good-humoured  visage,  and  I soon  gathered  that  he 

was  a clerk  in  Mr.  D ’s  employment.  He  now  used 

his  influence  to  prevent  his  companions  from  cariying 
their  jokes  to  any  length  that  might  be  unpleasant  to  me. 
I was  invited  to  take  a cup  of  coffee,  and  having  ac- 
cepted this  “ cup  o’  kindness,”  bade  the  assembly  fare- 
well, and  pursued  my  ride  to  Matanzas. 

On  arriving  there  1 presented  my  letter,  and  was  re- 
ceived by  Mr.  D with  great  politeness.  I became 

an  intimate  of  his  comfortable  house,  an  arrangement 
which  was  the  more  desirable,  because  the  taverns  or 
lodging-houses  in  the  town  are  mean  and  scant  in  their 
accommodations.  I found  in  my  new  host  one  of  the 
most  agreeable  and  instructive  companions  whom  I had 
met  on  the  island  ; his  practice  as  a merchant,  as  well  as 
the  management  of  several  sugar  and  coffee  estates  be- 
longing to  his  family,  (which  is  one  of  the  wealthiest  in 
Cuba,)  rendered  him  perfectly  familiar  with  all  practical 
subjects  interesting  to  a stranger,  while  I found  his  mind 
cultivated  and  enlarged  by  travel,  as  he  had  resided  se- 
veral years  in  Germany,  and  nearly  a similar  period  in 
England,  America,  and  Mexico ; moreover,  he  had  a 
very  fine  voice,  and  touched  the  guitar  and  piano-forte 
with  much  taste.  With  such  a companion,  it  may  be 
easily  believed  that  I passed  my  time  very  pleasantly. 
My  enjoyment,  however,  was  much  damped  by  the  con- 
tinuance of  the  fever  which  I had  caught  in  the  country  : 
I felt  still  weak  and  chilly,  and  a sort  of  aching  seemed 
to  have  taken  possession  of  all  my  joints.  Indeed,  the 
weather  was  said  to  be  colder  than  had  been  known  for 
many  years  in  the  island  ; a strong  north  wind  blew,  and 
its  effects  were  by  no  means  diminished  by  the  construc- 
tion of  the  houses,  in  which  you  are  perpetually  obliged 
to  sit  between  four  open  doors,  with  your  feet  on  a cold 
stone  floor.  Whatever  was  the  cause,  I must  say  that  I 
felt  the  cold  much  more  severely  than  ever  I did  in  Ame- 


TOWN  OF  MATANZAS. 


169 


rica  when  the  thermometer  was  from  15°  to  20Q  below 
zero,  though  I do  not  believe  it  could  have  been  here  be- 
low 55°. 

To  cure  myself,  I adopted  a regimen  for  which  the 
London  faculty  would  have  sent  me  to  bedlam  : 1 ate 
very  little,  drank  a pint  of  London  porter  daily,  and  in  a 
few  days  1 recovered. 


CHAPTER  XI. 


Town  of  Matanzas — Excursions  on  Horseback. — Fertile  Valley. 

Day-dreams. — Cock-fight. — Lofty  Mountain — Ascent  to  its  Summit. 
- — Magnificent  Prospect.— Forest  Trees. — Trails  of  Runaway  Ne- 
groes.— Different  Tribes  of  African  Slaves  imported  into  Cuba. 

Congou  Musical  Instruments. — Negro  Suicide. — Return  to  Havana. 
— Mercantile  Excitement  produced  by  a sudden  Kise  in  the  Price  of 

Sugar. — Management  of  a Sugar  Estate  in  Cuba. — The  Carnival. 

Bull-fight  — The  Italian  Opera. — Tertullias. — Gay  Scene  in  the  Plaza 
de  Armas. — Commerce  and  Statistics. — Treaty  for  the  Abolition  of 
Slavery. — Dinner  with  the  Governor. — The  New  Prison. — Masked 
Balls. — Leave  Havana. — Sail  for  Charleston. — A Storm. — Arrival  in 
the  Harbour. — Hospitable  Reception. — Letters  from  Home. 

The  town  of  Matanzas,*  which  lies  about  sixty  miles 
south-east  of  Havana,  is  situated  at  the  extremity  of  a 
bay  six  miles  long,  into  which  fall  two  small  rivers  which 
supply  the  town  with  water,  and  one  of  them  being  navi- 
gable for  some  distance  for  flat-boats,  is  very  useful  as  a 
medium  for  the  introduction  of  timber,  tiles,  vegetables, 
&c.  On  the  north  and  west,  the  town  is  sheltered  by 
high  hills,  and  on  the  east  by  a low  sloping  wooded  emi- 
nence. Few  buildings  of  any  importance,  public  or  pri- 
vate, are  in  Matanzas  ; there  is  only  one  church,  and  ihat 
a small  one ; in  truth,  sugar  seems  to  be  the  god  of  Ma- 
tanzan  idolatry,  and  a great  deal  of  business  is  done,  be- 
cause the  land  in  its  neighbourhood  is  more  fertile  than 
that  near  Havana.  The  sugar  estates  in  that  disirict  have 

* There  are  some  curious  caves,  one  or  two  of  very  large  extent  near 
Matanzas,  and  it  is  more  than  probable  that  this  town  took  its  name 
from  the  “ carnage”  or  '•  slaughter”  of  the  last  unfortunate  remnants 
of  the  aborigines  of  this  island,  who  had  fled  to  these  caves  for  refuge 
and  concealment. 

VOL.  II.— P 


170 


FERTILE  VALLET. 


but  a short  distance  to  send  their  produce  ; consequently, 
sugar  is  frequently  half  a real  lower  than  in  the  city  ; 
moreover,  it  is  a better  port  to  sail  from  for  America,  be- 
cause it  lies  sixty  miles  to  windward  of  the  other. 

Among  the  common  shrubs  in  the  gardens  near  Ma- 
tanzas,  I found  the  arrow-root,  the  caout-chouc,  or  In- 
dian-rubber  tree,  various  kinds  of  pepper,  and  the  Palma 
Christi,  from  which  the  castor-oil  is  extracted. 

I made  several  excursions  on  horseback,  in  some  of 
which  I enjoyed  several  beautiful  views ; one  in  particu- 
lar struck  me  as  most  remarkable.  I went  to  the  top  of 
the  high  ridge,  which  I mentioned  as  rising  on  the  north- 
west of  Matanzas,  whence  I could  see  the  town,  the  bay 
crowded  with  shipping,  and  a broad  expanse  of  ocean, 
its  nearer  margin  easily  tracked  for  a great  distance  by 
the  white  line  of  surf,  and  the  promontories  jutting  into 
its  bosom  ; while  on  the  seaward  horizon  a few  specks, 
with  the  sun  shining  brightly  upon  them,  completed  the 
picture  ; yet  was  each  of  these  specks  a floating  building, 
carrying  with  it  a certain  proportion  of  happiness,  misery, 
and  wealth.  Thus  are  we  all — all  our  schemes,  our 
plans,  our  trifling  misfortunes,  our  still  more  trifling  plea- 
sures,— all  are  mere  specks  on  the  great  ocean  of  Eter- 
nity ; and  yet,  viewed  through  the  microscopic  glass  of 
self-love,  how  important  do  we  seem  ! 

But  to  return  to  my  prospect.  On  the  inland  side  of 
the  high  range  on  which  I stood,  was  a deep  , and  fertile 
valley,  loaded  with  palms  and  sugar-cane,  sheltered  by 
an  amphitheatre  of  hills.  I never  saw  a quieter  or  more 
inviting  spot.  As  I rode  along  I allowed  my  fancy  to 
create  many  scenes  in  this  valley,  and  turn  it  to  all  her 
own  quaint  purposes  : first,  it  was  a kind  of  Eastern 
paradise,  w?ith  mosques,  sloping  gardens,  &c.  ; then  it 
was  the  scene  of  Boccaccio’s  tales,  and  I imagined  my- 
self and  my  companions  in  cap,  plume,  and  slashed  satin, 
hanging  over  a guitar,  lazily  stretched  at  the  feet  of  our 
“ Donne  leggiadre,”  listening  to  the  fate  of  the  parrot  sa- 
crificed at  the  altar  of  love,  or  some  of  the  other  legends  of 
that  immoral  and  exquisitely  written  work.  This  idea  was 
soon  banished  to  make  way  for  one  more  brilliant : the 
valley  was  made  for  a tournament ; already  it  was  wav- 


CASTLES  IN  THE  AIR. 


171 


ing  scarfs  and  feathers  ; it  resounded  with  the  clang  of 
armour  and  the  neighing  of  steeds;  the  sloping  hills 
around  were  alive  with  spectators;  in  a pavilion  at  the 
end  of  the  valley  were  the  lords  and  ladies  of  highest 
degree.  The  jousts  begin,  the  lances  are  shivered,  and 
an  unknown  knight,  in  black  armour  and  bearing  on  his 
shield,  without  device  or  ornament,  the  simple  words 
“ The  Wanderer,”  bears  down  all  before  him  and  is  pro- 
claimed hero  of  the  tournament. 

Under  the  excitement  of  these  dreams,  I put  spurs  to 
my  horse  ; and  giving  a shout,  that  was  a sort  of  medley 
of  the  Norman  war-cry,  the  fox-hunting  view-halloo,  and 
the  Pawnee  yell,  I charged  at  full  speed  along  the  ridge. 
The  road  made  a sudden  turn,  and  I almost  overthrew 
an  unfortunate  peasant  who  was  coming  in  the  opposite 
direction  with  eight  or  ten  loaded  mules.  I ran  against 
one  or  two  of  them  before  I could  pull  up  my  horse ; 
then  came  a thought  of  Don  Quixote,  a hearty  laugh,  and 
an  apology  to  the  paesano  for  disturbing  his  convoy. 
How  much  finer  are  the  castles  in  the  air  built  by  a 
younger  brother,  than  the  proudest  edifices  raised  in  Lon- 
don or  Yorkshire  by  the  wealthiest  peer  or  millionnaire  ! 
Moreover,  they  require  not  the  aid  of  any  fashionable 
architect;  they*are  removable  at  pleasure,  and  can  be 
pulled  dowrn  as  soon  as  built  up  ; an  object  which  some 
proprietors  seem  to  have  considered  as  the  more  impor- 
tant of  the  two. 

On  the  7th  of  February,  I went  with  Mr.  D to 

make  a short  tour  in  the  country.  At  a village,  called 
La  Moche,  I went  into  a tavern  for  a few  minutes  to  see 
a cock-fight.  It  is  well  known  that  this  is  a favourite 
amusement  both  in  Cuba  and  Mexico.  Indeed,  since 
the  governor  of  this  island  has  broken  up  “ monti,”  and 
other  kinds  of  public  gambling,  the  Cubans  have  re- 
served all  their  betting  energies  for  the  cockpit : they 
frequently  wager  one  thousand  dollars  a-side  on  a single 
cock,  besides  the  by-bets  which  may  be  made.  I am 
told  that  the  cocks  here  are  very  good,  and  remarkably 
well  trained.  The  best  breed  come  from  England,  and 
go  by  the  name  of  Lord  Derby’s  breed  ; of  these  every 
planter  boasts  of  the  possession  of  one  or  two ; the  ori- 


172 


COCK-FIGHT. 


ginal  importations  do  not  succeed  in  their  combats,  pro- 
bably owing  to  their  not  thriving  in  this  climate. 

Jn  regard  to  the  cock-fight  itself,  I need  only  say  that 
it  was  the  first  I ever  saw,  and  I sincerely  hope  it 
may  be  the  last.  I could  take  no  interest  in  it,  neither 
could  I observe  any  skill  in  the  combatants.  I have 
seen  many  a quarrel  between  two  black  cocks  in  Scot- 
land over  a few  grains  of  corn,  which  was  much  better 
worth  seeing,  in  respect  to  the  size,  strength  and  beauty 
of  the  feathered  heroes. 

A few  leagues  from  Matanzas  is  a mountain,  well 
known  to  all  mariners  who  approach  the  island  from  the 
north,  under  the  name  of  “ Pan  de  Matanzas  ” (from  its 
supposed  resemblance  to  a loaf.)  It  is  a good  landmark 
from  the  sea,  and  is  not  to  be  mistaken,  on  account  of  its 
height  and  peculiar  form.  This  mountain  is  covered 
with  wood  to  the  very  summit,  and  affords  a retreat  to 
considerable  numbers  of  “cimarrones,”  or  runaway  ne- 
groes. Except  these  worthies,  I understand  that  few  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  island  had  ever  been  on  the  top  of 
it.  Thinking  that  it  must  command  a splendid  prospect, 
we  determined  upon  ascending  it ; and  accordingly  we 
took  with  us  a couple  of  negroes,  two  Spaniards,  one  an 
employe  in  a sugar  estate,  the  other  a cattle-dealer,  who 
often  amused  or  employed  himself  in  hunting  “ cimar- 
rones,” for  each  of  whom,  when  taken,  he  received  four 
or  five  dollars.  As  these  fellows  are  numerous,  and  live 
only  by  robbing,  it  was  not  considered  prudent  to  go  al- 
together unprepared  ; so  they  took  two  or  three  swords, 
and  I had  with  me  a brace  of  small  pocket-pistols. 

The  principal  difficulty  we  had  to  encounter  was  the 
brushwood,  which  was  so  thick  in  some  places  that  we 
were  obliged  to  cut  a path  through  it  with  the  swords. 
When  we  got  about  half-way  to  the  summit,  we  found 
some  very  precipitous  rocks,  and  were  obliged  to  scram- 
ble on  hands  and  knees,  and  to  follow  many  windings  to 
get  above  them.  At  this  elevation  the  whole  stratum  on 
which  we  walked,  was  broken  stone  in  large  loose 
masses.  It  was  difficult  to  conceive  how  the  various 
beautiful  trees  and  plants  which  surrounded  us  could 
find  root  in  such  a bed  of  stones ; and  an  active  imagi- 


FOREST  TREES. 


173 


nation  might  have  found  a parallel  in  the  virtues  and  good 
actions  which  will  sometimes  break  out  in  the  most  har- 
dened and  ungenial  natures.  All  the  stones  and  rocks 
around  seemed  of  the  same  coral  or  lime  formation,  and 
among  them  were  many  sweet  little  miniature  valleys,  of 
thirty  or  fifty  yards  in  length,  carpeted  with  rich  herbage, 
shaded  with  various  trees,  and  protected  from  the  rays  of 
the  sun,  and  from  the  rude  breath  of  the  winds,  by  the 
precipices  which  overhung  and  surrounded  them.  In 
these  we  saw  many  recent  marks  of  the  “ cimarrones 
and  I could  not  deny  that  they  had  shown  some  taste  in 
the  selection  of  their  abode.  What  would  I not  have 
given  for  such  a bedroom,  on  many  occasions,  during  my 
ramble  among  the  unsheltered  barrens  of  the  western 
desert ! 

After  about  an  hour’s  walking  and  clambering  we 
reached  the  top,  without  difficulty  or  fatigue.  As  usual, 
I found  that  the  height,  steepness,  and  other  obstacles 
had  been  greatly  exaggerated,  and  I have  frequently 
crossed  two  or  three  mountains  higher  than  this,  in  the 
course  of  a day’s  deer-shooting  in  the  highlands.  How- 
ever, it  must  be  confessed  that  the  lungs,  the  sinews, 
and  all  the  corporal  functions  are  much  more  feeble  and 
relaxed  in  this  climate,  and  a Scotchman  not  acclimated, 
will  find  that  a walk  of  ten  miles  in  Cuba  is  about  equal 
to,  and  much  more  rare  in  occurrence,  than  one  of  thirty 
miles  at  home. 

In  order  to  get  a clear  view  from  the  summit,  we  were 
obliged  to  climb  a tree,  and  to  cut  all  the  leaves  and 
branches  which  hid  the  landscape  from  us.  It  was,  then, 
indeed,  a magnificent  prospect ! On  one  side,  a waving 
sea  of  sugar-canes  and  palms;  on  the  other,  the  oceaq, 
indented  with  numerous  bays  and  promentories  ; not  the 
least  interesting  object  being  the  town  of  Matanzas,  with 
its  shipping,  and  the  two  winding  rivers  which  fall  into 
the  harbour. 

I look  the  opportunity  of  my  ramble  to  the  top  of  tjie 
“Pan  de  Matanzas,”  to  cut  some  sticks  from  the  most 
curious  and  durable  kinds  of  trees.  I numbered  thetn 
as  follows  : — 


P 


174 


FOREST  TREES. 


1.  “ Caimito,”  or  “ Caimitillo.*7 

2.  “Yaya” — an  elastic  wood,  sometimes  used  as  a 
negro-whip. 

3.  “ Dagalbi” — often  used  for  making  wheel-carts. 

4.  “ Malaju” — a very  hard  wood  ; a kind  of  gum  is 
distilled  from  it,  which  is  extremely  healing  in  cases  of 
cuts  or  wounds  ; it  is  also  used  as  a preventive  against 
spasms,  lock-jaw,  &c. 

On  the  same  day  I also  brought  in  a coffee-stick,  and 
one  of  a singular  wood  called  “ Yaiquage.”  It  has  this 
peculiarity,  that  when  first  cut,  and  the  rind  peeled  off,  it 
is  quite  white,  and  after  being  exposed  to  the  air  a few 
hours  it  becomes  of  a rich  mahogany  colour.  It  is  use- 
less, except  in  pursuance  of  a scientific  object  (to  which 
task  I am  not  competent),  to  attempt  an  enumeration  of 
the  forest  trees  of  this  large  and  fertile  island  ; their  va- 
riety seems  endless  ; but  I will  mention  a few  of  the 
names  of  those  most  esteemed. 

1.  “ Quiebra-hache” — literally,  “break-axe  Anglice , 
Iron-wood. 

2.  “ Yava”— a hard  wood,  with  narrow  leaves. 

3.  “ Jocuma” — of  the  same  character. 

4.  “Frijolillo” — do. 

5.  “ Chicharon.” 

6.  “ Came  di  Donzella” — very  hard  wood. 

7.  “ Cuajalf.” 

8.  “ Roble” — this  word  ought  to  designate  an  oak , 
but  I have  seen  the  tree,  and  it  seems  to  me  to  be  a kind 
of  Ilex. 

9.  “ Caopa” — Anglice,  mahogany. 

10.  “ Cedro” — of  this  kind  of  cedar  most  of  the  doors 
and  roofs  of  the  best  houses  are  built. 

11. “  Majagua” — Anglice,  lance-wood. 

The  above  are  all  hard  woods,  and  those  most  com- 
monly used  by  carpenters  and  joiners.  Among  the  trees 
most  admired  for  the  beauty  of  their  flowers  and  blos- 
soms, are — 

12.  “ Ceiba,”  (Bombax  ceiba.) 

13.  “ Jobo,”  (Spondias  myro-balanus.) 

14.  “ Caimito,”  (Acropia  pellata,)  mentioned  before, 
&c. 


NEGRO  TRIBES. 


175 


With  the  exception  of  Nos.  8,  9,  10,  I am  not  aware 
that  any  of  the  above  names  are  familiar  to  old  Spain. 

In  our  descent  we  found  many  recent  tracks  of  the 
“ cimarrones,”  who  had  been  doubtless  disturbed  and 
alarmed  by  our  voices,  and  by  the  noise  which  we  made 
in  forcing  our  way  through  the  brushwood.  Of  course, 
it  was  much  more  easy  to  trace  them  than  it  was  dur- 
ing the  ascent,  because  a man  in  running  down  a hill 
selects  the  softest  place  for  his  footing;  whereas,  in 
climbing  it,  he  puts  his  foot  upon  the  projections  of 
rocks,  stones,  and  the  hardest  spots  that  he  can  find.  I 
was  astonished  at  the  quickness  and  skill  with  which 
our  negro  attendants  followed  the  trail  of  their  country- 
men ; it  reminded  me  of  my  Indian  companions  in  the 
West,  and  surprised  me  the  more,  from  their  dulness 
and  stupidity  in  every  other  operation  of  mind  or  body. 
It  is  very  natural  that  they  should  be  eager  to  re-capture 
their  runaway  brethren,  because  these  vagabonds  live 
chiefly  by  stealing  their  pigs,  fowls,  and  whatever  other 
fruits  of  their  industry  may  reward  the  employment  of 
their  leisure  hours. 

It  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  some  of  my  readers  if 
I make  a short  digression,  to  give  some  account  of  the 
different  tribes  of  African  slaves  imported  into  Cuba. 
They  may  be  classed  as  follows  : — 

1st.  The  Congou  negroes  from  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  Gold  coast.  Of  these  there  are  several  tribes  known 
among  the  slave  dealers ; e.  g.  the  Congou-reales,  Con- 
gou loaldo,  Congou-mondongo,  &c.  Their  general  cha- 
racter is  lazy,  mischievous,  and  apt  to  run  away;  but 
lively  in  their  amusements,  as  music,  dancing,  &c. ; very 
much  given  to  lying,  thieving,  and  all  roguery. 

2d.  Lucumi — also  from  the  west  coast  of  Africa ; very 
proud  and  haughty  ; they  are  brave,  and  are  often  known 
to  commit  suicide,  under  the  irritation  of  punishment  or 
disgrace. 

3d.  Macua  tribe — from  the  Mozambique  coast ; gene- 
rally quiet,  docile,  and  lazy;  not  very  numerous  in 
Cuba. 

4th.  Caravali  tribe — from  the  western  coast  of  Africa  ; 
very  industrious  and  avaricious  ; also  choleric  and  hasty 


176 


CONGOU  MUSICAL  INSTRUMENTS. 


in  temper.  Most  of  the  free  negroes  in  the  island  who 
are  rich  belong  to  this  tribe. 

5th.  Miri'i  tribe — also  from  the  west;  lazy,  stupid, 
and  of  no  marked  character.* 

6th.  Gangas — also  from  the  west;  very  mild  and 
docile,  but  lazy.  The  greatest  number  of  the  Cuban 
slaves  are  from  this  nation. 

7th.  Avara — also  from  the  west;  of  no  peculiar  char- 
acter. 

8th.  Mandinga — from  the  western  side ; general 
character,  quiet,  obedient,  and  honest. 

The  Congous  have  a singular  method  of  conversing, 
by  means  of  their  simple  and  rough  music,  of  which  they 
are  very  fond  : two  of  them  meet  on  a road,  one  begins 
to  sing,  the  other  catches  up  the  strain  and  answers  in 
it ; and  thus  they  converse  for  a period  of  an  hour  or 
two.  I heard  one  of  litem  play  on  a instrument,  which 
certainly,  in  simplicity  of  contrivance  exceeded  any  that 
I had  ever  seen.  It  is  composed  entirely  of  two  sub- 
stances, the  one  a kind  of  “ guira”  or  gourd ; the  upper 
extremity  of  wrhich  is  hollowed  out  with  a knife,  so  as  to 
answer  the  purpose  of  the  SS  holes  in  a violin.  From 
the  top  to  the  bottom  of  this  fruit  are  stretched  about  a 
dozen  horse  hairs  ; the  bow  is  also  formed  of  horse-hair, 
stretched  on  a bit  of  bent  cane.  On  this  instrument,  our 
black  Paganini  played  several  quaint  and  not  unmusical 
airs ; in  their  style  and  character  they  bore  a wonderful 
resemblance  to  some  of  the  highland  pibrochs,  and  the 
sound  of  the  instrument  was  not  unlike  that  of  our  pipes, 
heard  at  a distance. 

There  is  another  instrument  on  which  they  play,  which 
is  constructed  on  a principle  something  similar  to  a 
Jew’s-harp  : it  is  made  of  a hollow  and  elastic  cane,  to 
which  is  attached,  at  one  extremity,  a small  piece  of  a 
gourd,  to  the  other  a string,  which  they  draw  tight  by 
means  of  the  elastic  stick,  and  placing  it  in  the  mouth, 
and  before  the  teeth,  produce  a sound  by  the  vibration 
of  the  air,  giving  more  or  less  breath,  according  to  the 
effect  which  they  wish  to  produce.  Some  of  these  tribes 


* Of  this  nation,  there  is  a branch  called  Mir.a-po-pe. 


NEGRO  SUICIDE. 


177 


are  tattooed  on  the  arms,  cheeks,  &c.,  like  the  North 
American  Indians,  or  the  savages  of  the  Pacific  Islands. 

While  I was  yet  Mr.  D.’s  guest,  a messenger  arrived 
from  his  “ ingenio”  to  announce  to  him  that  one  of  his 
negroes  had  hanged  himself:  on  inquiry  he  proved  to  be 
a young  man  of  the  Lucumi  tribe,  mentioned  No.  2. 
He  had  not  been  in  the  island  above  nine  or  ten  months, 
and  had  never  been  punished,  nor  had  he  complained  of 
any  ill-treatment.  He  committed  this  suicide  under  the 
circumstances  which  Mr.  D.  informs  me  usually  accom- 
pany such  an  aciion  among  the  negroes  : he  asked  for 
his  new  suit  of  clothes,  which  happened  to  be  due  to  him 
at  this  time,  and  put  them  on  ; he  then  took  his  pig,  his 
“ machete,”  (a  kind  of  bill-hook  with  which  they  cut 
sugar-cane,  wood,  &c.,)  and  whatever  little  moveable 
property  he  possessed,  and  gathering  it  all  into  a heap 
under  a tree,  hung  himself  over  it.  This  is  doubtless 
owing  to  a superstition  prevalent  in  his  tribe,  that  in  the 
world  to  which  he  was  going,  such  articles  would  be 
useful  to  him.  I have  before  noticed  a belief,  very  similar 
to  this,  as  common  among  some  of  the  North  American 
Indians. 

The  following  day  I bade  adieu  with  sincere  regret 
to  my  agreeable  host,  and  putting  myself  on  board  the 
“ General  Tacon”  steamer,  arrived  in  six  hours  at  Havana. 
I found  the  whole  mercantile  population  in  great  excite- 
ment. The  prices  of  sugar  had  advanced  with  unex- 
ampled rapidity,  and  instead  of  ligand  15J  reals  per 
arrobe,  they  had  risen  in  one  week  to  13^  for  brown, 
and  17 J-  for  white.  One  merchant  of  my  acquaint- 
ance sold  fifty  boxes  on  the  12th  of  February  for  19 
reals.  Some  speculators  realized  immense  sums  in 
a few  days;  others  again  were  afraid  that  the  European 
demand  would  not  warrant  such  extravagant  prices,  even 
under  the  favourable  circumstances  of  a small  crop  in 
Jamaica,  and  a still  smaller  in  Louisiana,  Alabama,  and 
other  southern  districts  in  the  United  States. 

It  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  some  of  my  readers  if 
I give  an  account  of  the  management  of  a sugar  estate 
in  Cuba,  with  some  additional  particulars  regarding  the 
expenditure,  produce,  and  profits.  This  information  I 


178  MANAGEMENT  OF  A SUGAR  ESTATE  IN  CUBA. 


am  enabled  to  give  with  accuracy  by  the  kindness  of  a 
proprietor,  who  showed  me  his  books  and  explained  the 
details  to  me  on  the  spot.  I have  before  mentioned  that 
most  of  the  nobility  and  wealthy  proprietors  on  the  island 
have  several  sugar  estates  and  coffee  plantations.  In 
these  cases  the  management  is  intrusted  to  a steward, 
called  an  “ administrator,”  who  makes  a weekly  return 
to  his  employer  of  the  quantity  of  cane  cut,  the  number 
of  carl-loads  brought  in,  the  number  of  pans  or  loaves 
made  and  sold,  the  hogsheads  of  molasses  extracted, 
together  with  a report  of  the  health  of  the  negroes  and 
cattle.  (A  literal  copy  of  one  of  these  weekly  returns 
will  be  found  in  the  Appendix.) 

The  best  season  for  cutting  and  pressing  the  cane  is 
in  March  or  April,  when  it  yields  twenty  per  cent,  more 
sugar  than  if  cut  in  the  winter;  but  generally  ihe  process 
of  grinding  cane  continues  in  different  part  of  the  island, 
from  rhe  beginning  of  December  until  the  end  of  May. 
The  estates  are  divided  into  so  many  “ canaverales,”  or 
cane-fields,  each  of  which  contains  on  an  average,  seven- 
teen acres. 

The  “ ingenio”  which  I am  now  about  to  describe,  is 
worked  by  two  hundred  and  seventy  slaves,  one  hundred 
and  seventy  male,  and  one  hundred  female,  exclusive  of 
children ; it  produces  fifty-nine  thousand  five  hundred 
arrobes,  or  three  thousand  five  hundred  boxes  of  sugar, 
calculating  the  box  at  seventeen  arrobes.  In  183(5  the 
average  price  was  13  reals  per  arrobe  for  brown,  and  17 
for  white  sugar,  which  gives  a mean  of  15  reals  per  ar- 
robe. A real  is  one-eighth  of  a dollar  : thus  the  total 
revenue  arising  from  the  produce  as  above  stated,  will 
be  111,562  dollars.  The  annual  expenditure  on  this 
“ ingenio”  is  24,000  dollars,  including  an  ad  valorem 
calculation  of  two  per  cent,  for  the  loss  of  negroes,  and 
four  for  that  of  cattle  ; deducting  this  sum  from  the  gross 
revenue  abovementioned,  there  remains  87,562  dollars 
as  the  profit  of  the  sugar  on  this  “ ingenio j’  There  are 
also  to  be  added  one  thousand  hogsheads  (bocoyas)  of 
molasses  at  12|  dollars,  and  the  profit  of  two  dollars  oil 
the  boxes  allowed  by  the  merchants  to  the  growers  : 
these  additions  bring  the  clear  revenue  of  this  estate,  in 


THIS  CARNIVAL. 


179 


1836,  to  107,000  dollars,  or  about  21,000/.  sterling.  As 
I have  before  mentioned  that  sorpe  proprietors  in  the 
island  make  seven  or  eight  thousand  boxes  of  sugar,  and 
one  or  two  make  ten  thousand,  the  reader  may  form 
some  opinion  of  the  revenues  accruing  to  them  during 
such  years  as  1836. 

Under  these  circumstances,  the  carnival  was  most 
gaily  kept ; hearts  were  light  and  purses  heavy,  and  as 
the  governor  had  put  a stop  to  the  public  gambling  in 
the  island,  the  overflowing  spirits  and  pockets  of  the 
Cubans  exhausted  themselves  in  balls,  masquerades, 
theatres,  and  every  kind  of  show.  Among  these  last  I 
went  to  see  a bull-fight,  which  was  given  about  a mile 
from  the  town  ; it  was  an  imitation  of  that  so  well  known 
and  so  often  described  in  Spain  ; it  had  its  “ picadores,” 
its  “ matador,”  and  all  the  other  ministers  of  torment 
and  death  to  the  unfortunate  bull ; but  the  imitation  was 
so  bad,  that  nothing  belonging  to  it  is  worthy  of  record  ; 
two  horses  were  killed  and  two  men  nearly  so ; the  bulls 
were  wild  and  alarmed,  but  not  savage,  and  it  required 
all  the  galling  and  provocation  of  barbed  darts  and  fire- 
works to  make  them  attack.  The  spectacle  was  nume- 
rously attended,  as  it  had  not  been  seen  in  Havana  for 
two  or  three  years;  few  women  were  present  and  no 
ladies. 

The  musical  world  were  all  discontented  at  the  ill- 
success  of  the  Italian  Opera,  which  was  partly  owing  to 
accidents  which  could  not  be  foreseen  : two  of  the 
prima-donnas  were  confined  to  their  bedrooms  with  bad 
colds  ; and  there  was  not  one  tenor  or  bass  voice  in  the 
company  qualified  to  take  a first  part.  As  regards  the 
ballet,  the  dancers  could  walk  or  run  if  required,  but 
could  not  dance  ! and  thus  all  went  wrong  at  the  opera. 
I amused  myself,  on  some  of  the  evenings,  in  calling  at 
the  houses  of  my  Spanish  acquaintance,  and  became  a 
frequent  guest  at  one  of  those  little  soirees , called  here 
“ teriullias.”  At  one  of  these,  the  owner  of  the  house 
was  a complete  pianist ; his  daughter  had  a very  fine 
voice,  and  sang  with  much  feeling  and  taste  : she  was 
usually  accompanied  by  a cousin,  who  sang  a good  bass  ; 
and  I passed  many  hours  most  agreeably  in  this  house. 


ISO 


COMMERCE. 


Perhaps  I am  bound  to  add  that  the  Senorita  was  very 
pretty  and  amiable,  as  well  as  musical. 

I now  began  to  accustom  myself  to  the  Spanish  ha- 
bits, and  could  offer  or  request  a light  fora  cigar  without 
being  taken  for  a Boeotian.*  I strolled  lazily  about  the 
promenade  of  fashion,  a kind  of  boulevards  called  the 
“ Alameda;”  and  in  the  evening,  after  sipping  my  sher- 
bet, and  eating  an  ice  in  the  Lonja,  enjoyed  my  cigar  in 
the  Plaza  de  Armas,  observing  the  assemblage  collected 
from  all  parts  of  the  earth,  and  the  gay  volantes  passing 
and  repassing,  charged  with  sundry  mantillas  or  dark 
veils,  from  behind  which  a pair  of  lustrous  eyes  now  and 
then  ventured  to  emerge.  This  scene,  under  the  influ- 
ence of  a mild  air,  and  a crescent  moon,  with  the  ad- 
dition of  a military  band  of  music,  was  certainly  suf- 
ficient to  drive  all  wintry  associations  from  the  mind. — 
During  the  day  I entered  into  conversation  with  all  per- 
sons, whether  native  or  foreign,  from  whom  I could 
glean  any  useful  information  respecting  the  commerce 
and  statistics  of  the  island-:  in  this  manner  I became 
gradually  more  familiar  with  the  language,  and  learnt  to 
express  myself,  if  not  correctly,  at  least  with  sufficient 
fluency  to  be  understood. 

The  commerce  carried  on  between  this  island  and  the 
United  States  has  increased  to  an  extraordinary  extent 
within  twenty  years.  In  1813-14,  the  yearly  exports 
from  the  United  Slates  to  all  the  Spanish  islands  did  not 
amount  to  three  million  dollars  ; and  in  1833,  their  ex- 
ports to  Cuba  alone  exceeded  fifteen  million  dollars. — 
These  consist  chiefly  of  flour,  beef,  pork,  dried  fish,  and 
lard  ; besides  a variety  of  domestic  manufactures,  such 
as  hats,  leather,  soap,  gunpowder,  household  furniture, 
&c.  The  exports  from  Cuba  to  the.  United  States  are 
chiefly  sugar,  coffee,  and  molasses  ; of  these  the  amount 
in  the  same  year  (1833)  was,  of  sugar,  forty-eight  mil- 
lion pounds ; of  coffee,  thirty-nine  million  pounds  ; and 
of  molasses,  ten  and  a half  million  gallons.  I do  not  find, 
in  the  official  returns  of  that  year,  any  statement  of  the 

* In  this  act  of  asking  or  giving  a light  for  a cigar,  a IJavanese  will 
at  once  recognize  a countryman,  a Mexican,  an  American,  or  an  old 
Spaniard. 


STATISTICS. TRAFFIC  IN  SLAVES. 


181 


quantity  of  tobacco  exported  to  the  United  States;  but 
in  the  staistics  of  the  island,  published  in  1830,  the 
amount  exported  from  Cuba  was  606,000  pounds.* 
According  to  the  census  published  in  1827,  the  popu- 
lation amounted  to  704,493;  of  whom  311,051  were 
whites,  106,500  free  (coloured),  and  286,942  slaves; 
but  it  is  probable  that  a considerable  increase  has  taken 
place  since  that  date.  I have  before  mentioned,  that  the 
treaty  made  in  1817,  for  the  abolition  of  slavery,  came 
into  operation  in  1820  ; and  it  is  a singular  circumstance, 
that  the  value  or  price  of  an  able-bodied  negro  is  20  or  25 
per  cent,  lower  than  it  was  before  the  ratification  of  that 
treaty.  Certainly,  all  a 'priori  reasoning  would  lead  to  a 
conclusion  directly  opposite,  as  we  should  be  inclined  to 
suppose  that  in  an  island,  the  cultivation  of  which  has 
been  greatly  extended,  while  the  supply  of  negro  labour 
has  been  limited,  if  not  checked,  by  British  cruisers,  the 
price  of  slaves  would  have  proportionably  increased  : as 
the  reverse  is  the  fact,  it  is  to  be  feared  that  the  exertions 
made  for  the  suppression  of  the  slave-trade,  however 
strenuous  and  praiseworthy,  have  been  hitherto  almost 
ineffectual ; neither  can  it  be  expected  that  they  ever 
will  be  effectual,  until  it  is  considered  and  declared  pi- 
racy by  the  great  naval  powers,  and  a force  of  cruisers 
maintained  on  the  African  coast,  sufficient  to  destroy  all 
the  hopes  and  profits  of  those  concerned  in  this  inhuman 
traffic.  If  it  could  be  thus  checked  for  a few  years  it 
would,  in  a great  measure,  be  destroyed  ; for  the  negro 
chiefs,  who  now  carry  down  to  the  sea-shore  the  unior- 
tunate  wretches  whom  they  have  kidnapped  or  taken  in 
war,  even  from  the  most  remote  inland  districts,  wTould 
soon  abandon  that  practice,  when  they  found  that  there 
was  no  market  for  them  ; and  thus  it  is  probable  that 
ere  long  this  stain  upon  humanity  might  be  finally  ef- 
faced. 

At  present  the  profits  of  this  traffic  are  so  high,  that 
the  speculators  in  it  laugh  at  the  means  employed  for  its 
prevention.  If  they  can  bring  one  cargo  out  of  every 
three  safe  into  port,  they  can  well  afford  to  lose  the  re- 


* Estadistica  de  Espana,  por  M.  de  Joun£s.  Barcelona,  1835. 

Vol.  II.— Q 


^ 82  DINNER  WITH  THE  GOVERNOR, 

maining  two ; and  there  is  reason  to  fear,  that,  in  defL 
ance  of  the  precautions  hitherto  adopted,  at  least  two  out 
of  three  reach  their  destination.  Even  when  captured 
off  the  coast  of  Cuba,  many  abuses  take  place  which  the 
commissioners  are  unable  to  detect  or  prevent ; espe- 
cially in  the  case  of  those  negroes  who  are  intrusted  or 
apprenticed  to  proprietors  on  the  island.  But  this  branch 
of  the  subject  would  lead  me  into  details  loo  minute  for 
a work  of  this  kind,  which  only  pretends  to  narrate 
faithfully  those  particulars  which  came  immediately  un- 
der the  writer’s  personal  observation.  I will  therefore 
conclude  it  with  one  additional  fact,  too  important  to  be 
omitted  : i.  e.  during  my  residence  in  this  part  of  the 
world,  the  value  of  an  able-bodied  negro  in  Louisiana, 
and  the  slave  states  of  the  United  States,  was  about 
double  that  of  the  same  individual  in  Cuba,  being  from 
450  to  500  dollars  in  the  latter,  and  900  or  1,000  dollars 
in  the  former.  Can  any  one  believe  that  the  cupidity  of 
Spanish  slave-dealers  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  specula-* 
tive  enterprise  of  Americans  on  the  other,  will  leave  such 
a lucrative  field  for  smuggling  unimproved? — or  that,  if 
the  authorities  at  New  Orleans  and  Charleston  conscien- 
tiously prevent  the  importation  of  slaves,  the  mouths  of 
the  Rio  del  Norte,  the  Sabine,  the  Brasos,  and  other  rivers 
flowing  through  Texas  and  the  adjoining  regions,  do  not 
afford  ample  opportunities  for  landing  the  human  cargo, 
and  thus  transporting  it  across  the  frontier  into  the 
United  States  ? 

On  the  14th  and  15th  of  February  I dined  wdth  the 
governor.  His  style  of  living  was,  like  his  manner,  plain 
and  unostentatious.  The  conversation  was  carried  on 
exclusively  in  Spanish,  and  my  imperfect  knowledge  of 
that  language  rendered  me  a scanty  contributor  to  it. 
The  topics  canvassed  were  all  on  general  subjects  ; and 
I could  not  help  observing,  that  the  governor’s  aid-de- 
camps and  officers  spoke  as  freely  and  unrestrainedly  as 
if  he  had  not  been  present.  His  character  was  such  as 
to  command  respect,  and  he  had  too  much  real  power  to 
care  about  idle  forms.  After  dinner  he  took  me  in  his 
coach  to  see  the  new  prison,  which  he  was  then  con- 
structing. It  -is  a plain  solid  Grecian  building,  of  the 


MASKED  BALLS. 


r 183 

Doric  order,  and  capable  of  containing  a great  number  of 
prisoners.  It  is  built  of  stone  throughout ; and,  like  the 
roads,  the  street-paving,  and  all  the  other  public  works 
in-  progress,  is  carried  on  at  small  expense  ; because  the 
workmen  employed  consist  of  runawayslaves,  white  ma- 
lefactors, and  some  bands  of  Carlist  prisoners  sent  over 
from  Spain. 

On  the  two  evenings  before  alluded  to,  were  masked 
balls,  which  I attended.  They  were  much  the  same  as 
those  in  New  Orleans,  or  in  London  : they  amuse  a 
stranger  for  half  an  hour,  and  then  become  exceedingly 
tiresome ; but,  to  one  who  knows  a lovely  face  hidden 
behind  an  ugly  mask,  and  a full  fair  figure  beneath  the 
uncouth  bundle  of  clothes  before  him,  there  is,  doubtless, 
much  pleasure  and  excitement  to  be  found,  especially  as 
chaperons  and  duennas  are  exposed  to  constant  am- 
bushes, and  words  may  be  exchanged  which  would  die 
on  the  lips  were  the  mutual  faces  unmasked.  Neverthe- 
less, it  appears  to  me  that  the  reign  of  Comus  oyer  the 
civilized  world  is  nearly  at  an  end. 

I saw  many  handsome  women  in  the  room,  and  an  ex- 
clusive admirer  of  eyes  might  here  have  enjoyed  a feast. 
There  were  also  two  or  three  very  pretty  young  ladies 
from  America,  who  had  come  to  pass  the  winter.  On 
hearing  the  monotony  of  the  Spanish  country  dance  in- 
terrupted by  a French  cotillon,  I asked  one  of  these  to 
dance : we  stood  up,  and  I was  astonished  to  see  the 
formality  of  the  circle  formed  round  our  quadrille  ; but, 
fortunately  for  us,  there  was  a larger  set  at  the  other  end 
of  the  room,  who  occupied  the  attention  of  the  greater 
part  of  the  spectators.  Astonishment  was  turned  into 
horror,  when  I learned  that  the  quadrille  in  Havana  is 
considered  a theatre  for  the  display  of  capering  : the 
spectators  were  ranged  like  infantry  in  line  of  battle,  the 
front  row  kneeling  or  sitting,  the  middle  standing,  and  the 
rear  mounted  on  chairs,  clapping  the  entrechats  with  the 
vehemence  of  a Drury-lane  gallery.  I cared  nothing  for 
myself,  as  I philosophically  resolved  to  wTalk  through  the 
figure  as  quietly  as  if  I were  in  London  ; but  I really  felt 
for  my  partner,  who,  though  a very  pretty  dancer,  was 
too  modest  and  feminine  to  approve  of  this  exhibition.  I 


184 


SAIL  FOR  CHARLESTON. — A STORM. 


saw,  from  the  sudden  changes  of  colour  on  her  counte- 
nance, that  she  was  nervous  and  uncomfortable  ; and  I 
sincerely  regretted  having  been  unconsciously  instru- 
mental in  placing  her  in  such  a predicament.  To  add  to 
the  ogremens  of  our  situation,  we  were  so  far  from  the 
music  that  we  could  not  hear  a note,  nor  a sound,  except 
the  hand-clappings  which  accompanied  the  “ light  fan- 
tastic toe”  performances  in  the  larger  quadrille.  I was 
very  glad  when  it  was  over,  and  made  a resolution  not 
to  be  caught  again  by  a cotillon  in  Havana.  I can  only 
hope  that  my  fair  partner  bears  no  malice  against  me  for 
my  share  in  the  transaction. 

The  following  day  was  my  last  in  Havana,  and  I bade 
adieu  to  many  in  it  with  sincere  regret.  I embarked  on 
board  the  steam-boat  to  Matanzas,  where  the  brig  wras 
lying  which  was  to  convey  me  and  one  or  two  of  my 
friends  to  Charleston.  She  had  not  got  in  all  her  cargo  ; 
so  I found  myself  again  for  a couple  of  days  the  guest  of 
Mr.  S.  D , who  received  me  with  the  same  kind- 

ness and  hospitality  as  before. 

At  length  our  brig’s  lading  was  completed,  and  we  set 
sail  for  Charleston.  I had  to  complain  of  being  griev- 
ously cheated  by  the  Spanish  port  officers,  and  was  made 
to  pay  sixteen  dollars  for  passports  for  myself  and  ser- 
vant. The  two  might  have  been  included  in  one  paper, 
and  the  proper  charge  was  four  dollars.  Our  little  ves- 
sel, though  deep  in  the  water,  was  an  excellent  sea-boat, 
and  she  ran  swiftly  and  safely  through  that  difficult  sea 
between  the  Bahamas  and  Florida,  which,  owing  to 
strong  and  ever-varying  currents,  sudden  storms,  and  hid- 
den reefs  of  rock,  has  caused  the  wreck  of  more  craft 
than  any  other  corner  of  old  Ocean’s  tide. 

We  met  with  neither  trouble,  storm,  nor  accident,  un- 
til we  were  within  fifteen  miles  of  the  bar  off  Charleston, 
when  a kind  of  ominous  fog  came  on,  mixed  with  a cold 
drizzling  sleet.  As  this  cleared  off*,  the  whole  heaven  to 
windwaid  became  covered  with  clouds  as  black  as  night, 
separated  by  long  horizontal  streaks  of  a blood-red  hue. 
I never  remember  to  have  seen  so  wild  a sky;  large  sul- 
len drops  of  rain  descended  at.  irregular  intervals,  and  a 
line  of  foam  came  driving  over  the  vexed  bosom  of  the 


ARRIVAL  IN  HARBOUR. 


3 85 


deep.  So  threatening  was  the  appearance  of  the  coming 
storm,  that  our  captain  took  in  every  stitch  of  canvass, 
leaving  nothing  but  the  ropes  and  masts  to  abide  its  fury. 
It  came  with  a rushing  whirling  sound,  as  if  it  had  only 
just  burst  from  the  cave  of  dEolus,  and  for  a few  minutes 
all  the  rigging  and  spars  seemed  to  creak,  bow,  and  groan 
beneath  its  force;  but  the  stout  brig  'remained  unhurt, 
the  mingled  rain  and  spray  dashed  over  her  low  black 
sides,,  and  a good  ducking  was  the  reward  of  those  whose 
curiosity  prompted  them  to  appear  on  deck.  The  squall 
was  of  short  duration,  and  was  succeeded  by  the  same 
cold  wind  and  sleet  which  had  preceded  it;  the  fog  con- 
tinued brooding  over  the  sea,  and  no  pilot  came  out  to 
take  us  over  the  bar,  which  is  situated  in  one  of  the  most 
sinuous  and  dangerous  channels  of  any  harbour  in  Ame- 
rica. Our  captain  determined  upon  the  bold  measure  of 
piloting  her  in  himself,  very  properly  judging  that,  if  the 
fog  thickened,  or  the  wind  rose  again,  he  might  be  blown 
off  shore,  and,  perhaps,  have  to  remain  two  or  three  days 
more  at  sea.  The  event  justified  this  decision ; he 
brought  us  safe  into  harbour.  The  succeeding  night  was 
very  tempestuous,  during  which  were  several  snorting 
squalls  from  the  north-west,  which  might,  had  we  been 
at  sea,  have  driven  us  almost  to  Nassau. 

I had  been  but  very  few  hours  on  shore  when  I met 
several  old  acquaintances,  made  during  my  tour  in  the 
north  and  east,  and  began  very  early  to  experience  symp- 
toms of  that  warmth  of  hospitality  for  which  Carolina  is 
so  celebrated.  I found  also  a large  packet  of  letters 
from  home,  in  the  charge  of  the  British  consul.  1 had 
received  none  for  two  or  three  months  ; with  what  haste 
did  I shut  myself  into  my  room,  and  devour  the  welcome 
contents  ! The  wax  was  all  ted , — death  and  disease  had 
spared  my  paternal  roof,  and  for  more  than  an  hour  I en- 
joyed the  luxury  of  intercourse  with  those  most  loved  on 
earth,  and  felt  deeply  grateful  to  the  merciful  Being  who 
had  preserved  them  to  me. 


Q 


186 


CHARLESTON. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Charleston. — Hospitality  of  the  Inhabitants. — The  Carolinian  Charac- 
ter.— Change  in  the  Law  of  Primogeniture. — Education. — College 
at  West  Point. — Republicanism  of  Charleston. — Tone  of  Society. — 
Saintly  Newspaper  Editors. — Sail  for  Norfolk. — Arrival  there. — A 
Race. — Passage  from  Norfolk. — American  Seamen. — Night  Scene  on 
board  the  Steamer. — Arrival  at  Washington. — Debates  in  Congress. 
— Diplomatic  Dinners. — General  Jackson. — Mr.  Van  Buren. — Me- 
diation of  Great  Britain  between  the  United  States  and  France. — 
Proceed  to  Baltimore. — Commerce  of  that  City. — Philadelphia — its 
Society  and  Hospitality. — Route  to  New-York. — Indian  Excitement. 
— Threatening  Aspect  of  Indian  Affairs. — American  State  Militia. — 
Streets  of  New  York. — Dinner  given  by  the  St.  George’s  Society. — 
Races  on  Long  Island. — Visit  to  a Friend’s  Country  Seat  on  the 
Banks  of  the  Hudson. — Return  to  New  York. 


I shall  not  attempt  to  give  a description  of  Charles- 
ton, which  is  nearly  as  well  known  to  the  civilized  world 
as  Bristol  or  Liverpool.  Every  one  knows  that  it  is  a 
commercial  city,  situated  on  a point  of  land  made  by  the 
junction  of  the  rivers  Ashley  and  Cooper ; its  longitude 
being  about  80°  west,  and  its  latitude  about  33®  north. 
Its  population  is  probably  about  35,000,  of  which  one 
half  is  coloured.  It  contains  no  remarkable  buildings, 
either  as  regards  size  or  architecture,  although  there  are 
many  well-endowed  public  institutions,  especially  a li- 
brary and  an  orphan  asylum,  which  do  great  credit  to 
the  liberality  and  charitable  disposition  of  the  citizens. 
The  hotels  are  small  and  mean,  the  streets  not  so  hand- 
some as  those  in  other  of  the  Atlantic  cities,  and  the  pri- 
vate houses,  even  of  the  wealthier  planters,  are  smaller 
than  would  appear  consistent  with  the  gayety  and  hospi- 
tality which  reigns  within  their  walls.  In  regard  to  the 
latter,  I can  only  say,  that  during  the  twelve  days  which 
I spent  in  Charleston,  I had  a dinner  invitation  for  every 
day,  and  I believe  the  same  would  have  been  the  case 
had  I remained  another  month. 

A gentleman  must  be  very  difficult  to  please  if  he  does 


THE  CAROLINIAN  CHARACTER. 


187 


not  find  the  Charleston  society  agreeable  ; there  is  some- 
thing warm,  frank,  and  courteous  in  the  manner  of  a real 
Carolinian  ; he  is  not  studiously,  but  naturally,  polite ; 
and,  though  his  character  may  not  be  remarkable  for  that 
persevering  industry  and  close  attention  to  minutiae  in 
business,  which  are  so  remarkable  in  the  New  England 
merchant,  he  is  far  from  deficient  in  sagacity,  courage, 
or  enterprise.  Altogether,  with  due  allowance  for  ex- 
ceptions, I should  say  that  the  Carolinian  character  is 
more  akin  to  that  of  England  ; the  New  England,  to  that 
of  the  lowland  Scotch.  These  affinities  (supposing  that 
I am  justified  in  observing  their  existence)  are  by  no 
means  to  be  wondered  at,  if  we  consider  the  original  ele- 
ments of  which  each  of  the  colonies  was  formed,  and  the 
additions  which  they  subsequently  received  from  the 
mother  country.  Moreover,  the  southern  colonists,  who 
were  mostly  episcopalians,  and  many  of  them  members 
of  the  oldest  and  noblest  families  in  Britain,  retained  till 
very  lately  a predilection  for  institutions  which  were  little 
regarded  by  their  northern  brethren. 

That  which  may  be  cited  as  most  important  and  in- 
fluential in  the  formation  of  their  character,  was  their 
habitual  preference  of  an  English  collegiate  education  for 
their  sons.  Before  the  year  1770,  almost  every  planter 
sent  his  boys  to  Oxford  or  Cambridge,  where  he  had 
been  himself  educated  ; the  necessary  consequence  of 
this  custom,  was  a partial  adoption  of  the  manners,  lastes, 
and  perhaps,  too,  the  faults  of  the  British  youth  of  the 
higher  classes.  Hence,  they  imbibed  a fondness  for 
horses,  and  hunting,  and  other  gay  amusements,  as  well 
as  a share  of  the  light  accomplishments  of  the  day  ; all 
of  which  tended  to  make  them  averse  to  the  drudgery  of 
business.  This  disinclination  was  increased  by  the  na- 
ture of  their  property  in  Carolina,  which,  being  culti- 
vated by  slaves,  under  the  inspection  of  a factor,  left  them 
little  of  the  business  of  a proprietor,  excepting  the  yearly 
or  half  yearly  audit  of  accounts.  As  I before  said,  there 
were  many  exceptions  to  these  remarks  : men  who  waged 
war  in  person  with  the  ancient  forest,  and  with  their  own 
hand,  or  under  their  own  eye,  planted,  in  its  place,  maize, 
rice,  and  cotton  ; men  who  attained  wealth  by  hardship 


188 


EDUCATION. 


and  perseverence : but  these  instances,  though  not  rare, 
formed  the  exception,  not  the  rule,  as  may  be  gathered 
both  from  colonial  history,  and  from  the  internal  and  more 
certain  evidence  of  character  above  described. 

Since  the  declaration  of  independence,  many  causes 
have  been  in  operation  calculated  to  change  the  manners 
and  character  of  the  Carolinian  ; but  they  have  only  par- 
tially effected  this  change,  and  a close  and  attentive  ob- 
server can  very  plainly  recognize  in  the  quality  of  the 
stream  the  fountain  whence  it  flows.  The  most  obvious 
change  is  that  of  education,  for  which  it  is  no  longer  the 
fashion  to  select  Oxford  or  Cambridge.  Connected  with 
this  is  the  change  which  has  taken  place  in  the  laws  of 
succession  to  real  estate ; these  used  to  be  conformed  to 
the  English  law  of  primogeniture  ; whereas  now,  a divi- 
sion of  property  among  all  the  children  takes  place,  and 
the  planter,  with  his  own  portion  of  the  paternal  estate, 
can  no  longer  send  his  sons  to  an  English  university; 
they  are  accordingly  educated  at  some  college  near  home, 
or  more  usually  in  the  eastern  states.  My  opinion  of 
these,  as  compared  with  Oxford  or  Cambridge,  would  not 
be  believed  unprejudiced,  even  if  it  were  entirely  so  ; let 
the  science  and  scholarship  of  the  young  men  whom 
they  respectively  send  forth,  decide  the  merits  of  each.  I 
take  it  for  granted,  that,  in  respect  to  classics  and  pure 
mathematics,  the  Americans  would  not  care  to  contest 
the  point,  because,  from  the  limited  attention  which  they 
bestow  upon  these  studies,  it  cannot  be  expected  that 
they  should  make  the  same  progress  as  students  who  de- 
vote to  them  several  years  of  intense  labour,  in  order  to 
take  a first  class  or  a wrangler’s  degree ; but  whether 
they  do  not,  at  the  different  colleges  in  the  United  States, 
receive  an  education  as  well  suited  to  the  objects  which 
they  are  destined  to  pursue  in  after  life,  is  a different 
question.  The  best  that  I have  seen  is  West  Point ; that 
establishment  has  sent  out  many  young  officers  well- 
grounded  in  the  lower  mathematics,  and  the  other 
branches  of  science  required  in  an  engineer. 

To  return  to  Charleston.  This  city  affords  a very  sin- 
gular spectacle  ; the  planters  are  generally  impoverished 
by  the  division  of  property  ; they  have  lost  many  of  their 


NEWSPAPER  EDITORS. 


189 


patrician  notions,  (call  them,  if  you  will,  prejudices  ;)  the 
increased  commerce  has  raised  10  affluence,  and  conse- 
quently brought  into  fashionable  society,  many  merchants 
with  whom  the  planters  would  not  associate  on  terms  of 
intimacy  fifty  years  ago ; and  thus,  while  the  society  of 
Boston,  Philadelphia,  and  New  York,  is  daily  becoming 
more  exclusive  and  aristocratic,  that  of  the  Carolinian 
capital  is  becoming  more  republican. 

The  tone  of  society  which  here,  as  elsewhere,  is  under 
female  control,  struck  me  as  being  very  agreeable  : there 
is  nothing  in  it  of  that  formality  or  ostentation  which  I 
had  been  led  to  expect.  The  very  noblest  and  wealthiest 
houses  in  London  might  take  example,  in  one  particular, 
from  Charleston  ; namely,  in  the  refreshments  offered  at 
balls,  and  other  evening  parties.  On  these  occasions,  I 
have  known  many  instances  in  the  British  metropolis 
where  the  dancers  and  other  guests  have  been  offered 
gooseberry  champaign,  vin-du-pays  claret,  Marsala  sher- 
ry, and  Cape  madera;  while  the  other  arrangements  of 
the  evening  were  conducted  upon  a scale  of  extravagant 
magnificence.  A Charleston  gentleman  offers  his  guests 
as  good  wine  at  his  supper  as  at  his  dinner-table.  1 know 
the  excuse  is  ready,  that  the  parties  in  London  are  so  nu- 
merously attended,  and  upon  such  an  immense  scale,  that 
similar  arrangements  would  not  be  practicable  there. 
This  is  but  an  excuse,  and  a lame  one.  If  a gentleman 
cannot  afford  to  give  good  champaign,  let  him  give  good 
sherry  ; and  if  not  that,  good  negus  ; but  no  man’s  osten- 
tation should  lead  him  to  poison  his  friends.* 

I spent  ten  days  most  pleasantly  in  Charleston;  and 
though  some  of  the  saintly  newspaper  editors  wrote  fu- 
rious tirades  against  the  waltz,  scarcely  an  evening  pass- 
ed of  which  we  did  not  spend  a part  in  that  charming 
importation  from  Germany.  The  wrath  of  these  con- 
sistent worthies  amused  me  very  much.  To  slander, 
vituperate,  and,  if  possible,  to  ruin  the  character  of  a 
political  opponent,  is  a matter  of  daily  practice  among 
them ; but  a dance,  the  only  impropriety  of  which  is  in 

* I made  a similar  observation  during  my  visit  to  New  Orleans,  but 
it  is  true , and  will  bear  repetition, 


190 


A RACE. 


the  mind  of  an  improper  thinker , is  anathematized  with- 
out mercy.  This  subject  is  worn  threadbare ; but  no- 
where is  it  treated  with  less  candour,  or  with  more  ex- 
aggeration than  by  a writer,  whom  I and  all  the  world 
must  concur  in  admiring  for  his  pure  English  and  amia- 
ble sentiments,  in  the  “ Sketch-book,”  and  for  the  quaint 
description  and  satirical  humour  of  “Knickerbocker.” 

I parted  with  much  reluctance  from  some  of  my  fair 
partners  in  this  condemned  dance ; they  were  pretty, 
agreeable,  and  intelligent,  and  in  one  respect  have  an  ad- 
vantage over  most  of  their  northern  sisters  (if  the  judge 
is  to  be  a person  accustomed  to  English  society), — I 
mean  as  regards  voice  ; they  have  not  that  particular  in- 
tonation and  pronunciation  which  I had  remarked  else- 
where, and  which  must  have  struck  every  stranger  who 
has  visited  the  other  Atlantic  cities. 

There  is  one  subject  connected  with  Charleston  on 
which  I am  afraid  to  venture,  lest  I be  suspected  of  be- 
ing a confirmed  gourmand — I mean  the  madera  ; which 
is  so  soft,  so  delicate,  so  fragrant,  that  one  fancies  it  fit 
only  for  the  fairy  banquet  of  a Calypso,  or  an  Armida, 
and  to  be  poured  forth  by  Hebe,  and  not  by  the  good-hu- 
moured grinning,  black  Ganymede,  in  whose  hands  me- 
thinks  I now  see  it  before  me. 

After  a fortnight  agreeably  spent  in  the  hospitalities 
of  Charleston,  I sailed  for  Norfolk,  on  board  of  the  “ Po- 
cahontas she  was  extremely  crowded,  and  I was  so  for- 
tunate as  to  have  in  the  midst  of  the  confusion  a few 
friends  who  were  bound  like  myself  for  Baltimore  via 
Norfolk.  We  were  almost  constantly  in  sight  of  land, 
but  saw  nothing  of  interest  on  the  coast,  which  is  low, 
flat,  and  sandy  ; while  the  navigation  is  unpleasant  to 
sailing-vessels  from  the  number  of  shoals  and  currents. 
We  arrived  without  accident  at  Norfolk  ; and  as  it  was 
evident  that  the  small  and  scant  hotels  in  that  town  could 
not  afford  lodging  to  half  our  passengers,  we  all  gather- 
ed to  the  side  of  the  steamer,  and  prepared  for  a race  as 
soon  as  we  should  be  near  enough  to  jump  ashore. 

It  happened  that  the  best  tavern  (the  same  at  which  I 
had  stayed  the  previous  year)  was  nearly  a mile  from  the 
■wharf,  and  as  it  was  a sweepstakes  for  all  sizes,  it  pro-- 


Passage  from  norfoLk. 


i9i 


tnised  excellent  sport : some  carried  weight  in  the  form 
of  a great-coat  or  cloak — these  were  soon  “ shut  out 
and  the  other  running-horses  made  play  up  the  main 
street,  to  the  astonishment  of  the  quiet  citizens,  who 
stared  and  cleared  the  course.  The  stout  and  pursy 
competitors  soon  began  to  fall  into  the  rear ; then 
followed  those  who  had  been  the  most  successful  at 
the  late  scramble  for  dinner,  and  had  swallowed  that 
meal  in  unreasonable  quantity,  and  still  more  un- 
reasonable haste  ! Although  I by  no  means  consider 
myself  a good  runner,  it  would  be  very  hard  if  a man 
trained  among  the  hills  in  Scotland,  and  having  passed 
the  last  summer  in  the  western  prairies,  could  not  be 
tolerably  placed  among  such  heavy  cattle  as  I was  now 
opposed  to  : accordingly,  I and  a young  friend  who  ac- 
companied me  arrived  first,  and  secured  sleeping  apart- 
ments, and  then  went  out  to  see  the  remainder  “ come 
in.”  Some  were  distanced,  others  had  “ broken  down,” 
and  some  had  bolted  and  taken  to  smaller  taverns  by  the 
way,  which  offered  a tempting  halt  to  panting  and  per- 
spiring travellers. 

I called  upon  my  old  acquaintance,  the  British  consul* 
and  was  glad  to  find  him  and  his  family  in  good  health. 
The  town  was  little  changed  since  I left  it,  and  as  I 
walked  among  houses  and  shops,  every  one  of  which  l 
remembered,  I could  scarcely  believe  that  I had  been 
more  than  two  or  three  weeks  absent. 

In  the  morning,  before  the  Charleston  boat  started,  I 
paid  a visit  to  a young  lady,  whose  acquaintance  I had 
made  on  my  former  tour,  and  whose  beauty  was  known 
to  every  one  in  the  town  except  herself.  She  had  been 
in  delicate  health  all  the  winter;  and  though  her  friends 
assured  me  it  “ was  only  a cough,  and  that  she  was  now 
better,”  I could  not  help  fearing  that  the  most  wily  and 
insidious  of  fiends,  consumption,  already  lurked  beneath 
the  hectic  flush  on  those  soft  cheeks,  and  the  too  lustrous 
beaming  of  those  deep  blue  eyes.  I know  nothing  more 
painfully  interesting  than  to  witness  this  silent  and  un- 
conscious withering  of  the  fairest  flower  in  the  garden 
of  beauty,  for  it  is  generally  upon  such  that  he  lays  his 
deadly  grasp,  adorning  his  victim  at  the  same  time  with 
graces,  more  delicate  than  are  usually  bestowed  upon  the 


192 


AMERICAN  SEAMENi 


votaries  of  health,  and  strewing  the  cheek  with  roses, 
while  he  is  poisoning  the  secret  springs  of  life  within. 
Most  sincerely  do  I hope  that  I may  have  erred  in  ap- 
plying these  remarks  to  the  amiable  being  who  suggested 
them. 

The  passage  from  Norfolk  to  Baltimore  was  yet  more 
unpleasant  than  that  of  the  preceding  day,  and  the  steam- 
boat more  crowded.  There  were  neither  berths  nor  even 
mattresses  to  be  had,  and  the  dinner-table  was  laid  and 
cleared  twice  before  any  person  could  procure  a meal 
who  did  not  choose  to  risk  a torn  coat  and  bruised  shoul- 
ders. The  only  amusement  wras  on  the  upper  deck, 
where  one  or  two  hundred  seamen,  fresh  from  a man-of- 
war,  lately  paid  off,  were  dancing,  shouting,  drinking, 
and  frolicking  with  all  the  uncouth  merriment  peculiar  to 
these  Tritons,  when  newly  released  from  restraint  and 
discipline.  However,  I must  say  that  the  American 
sailors,  although  they  handle  a ship  and  a thirty-two 
pounder  as  well  as  any  seamen  in  the  world,  do  not  dance 
as  well  as  the  British  tars.  Philosophers  may  inquire 
into  the  cause,  and  possibly  (as  it  does  sometimes  hap- 
pen) before  they  have  ascertained  it,  the  facts  may  be 
reversed. 

When  the  night  set  in  it  was  most  amusing  to  see  the 
various  expedients  for  slumber  to  which  the  passengers 
had  recourse  ; in  the  fore-cabin,  where  I and  my  com- 
panions had  engaged  berths,  we  found  two  or  three 
drunken  sailors  in  each  ; and  the  steward  fairly  told  us 
that  the  ship’s  company  was  much  too  feeble  to  attempt  to 
dislodge  them.  I saw  the  truth  of  this,  and  as  my  mat- 
tress was  an  unattainable  blessing,  I contrived  to  extract 
my  pillow  from  below  two  or  three  drowsy,  shaggy,  and 
growling  heads,  and  marched  off  with  it  in  triumph. 
On  reaching  the  after-cabin  I found  the  berths  there  all 
full,  the  tables  strewed  with  sleepers,  and  the  floor  so 
crowded  that  Cinderella  herself  could  not  have  stepped 
over  its  tenants  without  treading  on  arms,  legs,  and 
noses.  I found  a young  man  with  whom  I was  slightly  ac- 
quainted, roaring  lustily  from  his  berth  for  a pillow,  say- 
ing that  he  could  not  sleep  without  one.  As  I still  held 
my  prize  under  my  arm,  I called  out  to  him  that  I would 


ARRIVAL  AT  WASHINGTON. 


103 


toss  up  with  him  whether  I should  give  him  my  pillow 
or  he  give  me  his  mattress.  He  agreed  : I won  ; so  I 
hauled  the  mattress  upon  deck,  sat  down  upon  it, 
lighted  my  cigar,  and  by  the  smoky  light  of  a lamp,  be- 
gan to  play  ecarte  with  a young  friend  from  New  York. 
The  weather  became  intensely  cold ; and  after  playing 
half  the  night,  I betook  myself  to  my  plaid,  he  to  his 
cloak,  and  we  tried  to  sleep.  In  the  morning  we  found 
that  it  was  a hard  frost,  and  a brisk  north-wester  had 
been  flirting  with  our  ears  and  neck  towards  the  dawn  ; 
this  freak  cost  me  a cold  and  a stiff  neck  for  forty-eight 
hours. 

I proceeded  immediately  to  Washington,  and  with 
great  pleasure  found  myself  once  more  under  the  same 
roof  with  my  old  companions,  friends,  and  countrymen 
in  the  British  legation. 

I remained  here  about  ten  days  enjoying  the  society  of 
many  esteemed  and  valued  acquaintance,  attending  also, 
occasionally,  the  debates  in  congress.  In  these  last, 
there  was  nothing  at  the  time  under  discussion  which 
possessed  much  general  interest,  neither  did  I hear  any 
great  efforts  of  any  of  the  more  eminent  speakers  ; but  I 
was  confirmed  in  my  opinion  of  the  preceding  session, 
namely,  that  the  general  tone  of  manner,  eloquence,  and 
debate,  is  beyond  all  comparison  more  gentlemanly,  as 
well  as  more  business-like,  in  the  Senate  than  in  the 
House  of  Representatives.  In  the  circle  of  my  own 
friends  (for  it  is  gratifying  to  me  to  believe  that  in  Wash- 
ington I had  and  have  friends  whom  I most  highly  re- 
gard), the  hand  of  the  Destroyer  had  been  more  than 
once  lifted  up  during  my  absence  ; the  scenes  of  former 
social  mirth  were  now  houses  of  mourning  ; and,  though 
balls  and  evening  parties  still  went  gaily  on,  and  were 
adorned  by  new  and  attractive  faces,  I missed  some  of 
those  which  had  been  most  familiar  to  me,  and  their  ab- 
sence dulled  my  enjoyment  of  the  passing  festivities. 

As  an  admirer,  however*  of  good  cheer,  I had  arrived 
at  a most  auspicious  period,  for  the  new  British  Minister 
had  just  made  his  first  appearance,  and  I was  invited  to 
the  diplomatic  dinners  .which  were  given  to  him  on  his 
arrival  by  the  President,  the  Vice-President,  the  Secre- 

Vol.  H.— R 


294 


DIPLOMATIC  DINNERS, 


taries  of  State,  &c.  Gen.  Jackson  appeared  to  me 
much  more  infirm  than  when  I had  last  seen  him  ; a ten- 
dency of  blood  to  the  head  which  obliges  him  to  have 
frequent  recourse  to  the  cups  and  the  lancet,  had  doubt- 
less contributed  to  reduce  and  enfeeble  his  system.  The 
Vice-President  I found  as  agreeable  as  ever ; and  what- 
ever opinion  I or  others  may  entertain  of  the  general 
conduct  of  his  supporters  and  the  measures  pursued  by 
his  party,  no  man  who  is  acquainted  with  Mr.  Van 
Buren  can  fail  to  discover  that  he  is  a shrewd  and  able 
statesman,  and  a well-read  and  well-informed  man, 
whose  manner  is  polite,  and  whose  conversation  is  both 
amusing  and  instructive.  I confess  also  that  there  was 
something  gratifying  to  me  in  the  language  which  he  al- 
ways used  when  speaking  of  Britain.  He  seems  to 
have  been  treated  in  London  with  kindness  and  distinc- 
tion, and  to  feel  grateful  for  attentions  which  were  indeed 
due  to  his  accomplishments,  as  well  as  to  the  diplomatic 
station  which  he  held.* 

I was  much  pleased  with  the  light  in  which  all  the 
more  liberal  and  enlightened  Americans  viewed  the  me- 
diation of  Great  Britain  between  the  United  States  and 
France  in  their  late  dispute  and  threatened  war:  the 
manner  in  which  it  was  offered  was  doubtless  honoura- 
ble to  Great  Britain  ; nor  was  the  manner  in  which  it 
was  received  and  acknowledged  less  creditable. to  the 
United  States  government. 

As  to  France,  she  may  explain  and  comment  upon  the 
transaction  as  she  pleases  ; but  to  any  disinterested  spec- 
tator, her  conduct  throughout  appears  weak  and  shuf- 
fling. If  she  was  insulted  by  the  President’s  message 
of  1834,  she  ought  to  have  gone  to  war  at  once  (and 
most  fatal  would  it  have  been  to  the  interest  of  the  Uni- 
ted States  had  she  done  so);  but,  after  withholding  for  a 
year  the  payment  of  money  which  she  had  acknowledged 

* Since  the  text  was  written,  Mr.  Van  Buren  has  become  President 
of  the  United  States.  Many  other  political  changeshave  occurred,  but 
I have  left  my  journal  exactly  as  it  originally  stood.  In  a narrative 
of  this  kind,  I prefer  relating  faithfully  the  impression  produced  on 
my  mind  at  the  time,  to  giving  an  opinion  formed  upon  subsequent  oc- 
currences. 


PROCEED  TO  BALTIMORE. 


195 


to  be  due,  and  demanding  an  apology  for  insulting  or 
threatening  language  used  by  the  President;  after  call- 
ing back  her  own  corps  diplomatique  and  dismissing  that 
of  the  United  States  ; she  gave  up  at  once  all  the  points 
which  touched  either  her  honour  or  her  avarice,  and  agreed 
to  pay  the  required  indemnities  on  receiving  the  Presi- 
dent’s message  of  1835,  which  repeated  the  spirit  and 
tenour  of  his  former  language,  with  the  addition,  “ that 
he  would  not  tarnish  his  own  or  his  country’s  honour  by 
offering  either  explanation  or  apology.” 

Did  the  bigotted  sovereign  who  was  driven  by  force 
from  the  throne  of  France,  ever  dare  so  to  humble  her  in 
the  eyes  of  the  world  ? Nations,  like  individuals,  should 
follow  old  Polonius’s  advice. 

“ Beware  of  entering  into  quarrel,  but,  being  in. 

Bear  it  that  the  opposer  may  beware  of  thee  !” 

From  Washington,  I proceeded  to  Baltimore,  by  the 
railroad,  which  is  as  rough  and  ill-constructed  as  any  I 
ever  travelled  upon ; the  distance  is  about  forty-five 
miles,  and  we  were  considerably  more  than  four  hours 
in  performing  it.  In  this  thriving  and  admirably  situated 
town,  I passed  a few  days  very  agreeably.  I went  to  a 
few  small  parties,  and  saw  some  specimens  of  the  beauty 
for  which  it  is  so  justly  celebrated ; but  the  beautiful 
vision  which  1 had  seen  the  year  before,  at  Tam  o’Shan- 
ter’s  exhibition,  and  which  still  lived  in  my  thoughts, 
never  blessed  my  eyes  again. 

The  mania  of  speculation  which  has  prevailed  to  such 
unparralleled  extent  in  New  York,  Chicago,  &c.,  has 
not  yet  reached  this  city,  and  the  price  of  land  seems  to 
me  as  unaccountably  low  here  as  it  is  absurdly  high  else- 
where. The  commerce  of  Baltimore  is  great ; it  is  the 
most  central  and  the  nearest  of  all  the  Atlantic  cities  to 
the  great  marts  of  western  produce,  and  is  the  nucleus 
of  almost  all  the  railroads  in  the  United  States.  Unless 
I am  much  mistaken,  building  lots  in  Baltimore  will  rise 
nearly  a hundred  per  cent,  in  the  course  of  the  next  five 
years  : there  is  a chance  for  the  speculators — but  they 
must  be  Americans as  the  laws  of  Maryland  prohibit 
aliens  from  holding  and  inheriting  real  estate.  Such  re 


196 


ROUTE  TO  NEW  YORK. 


gulatrons  may  be  wise,  but  I have  yet  to  learn  wherein 
their  wisdom  consists,  when  applied  to  a country  which 
wants  i>o  elements  of  wealth  and  prosperity,  but  popula- 
tion and  capital. 

From  hence  I went  to  Philadelphia,  which  has  always 
been  my  favourite  of  all  the  American  cities  : there  is 
here  more  quiet  and  leisure,  more  symptoms  of  comfort, 
than  elsewhere.  It  contained  many  of  my  friends,  and, 
in  the  beauty  of  its  women,  it  yields  to  no  place  that  it 
has  yet  been  my  lot  to  visit.  With  this  I feasted  my 
eye.  My  ear  was  entranced  by  the  very  sweetest  and 
most  powerful  harpist  whose  fingers  ever  swept  the 
chords.  Madera  poured  forth  for  me  her  thousand 
choicest  vintages,  and  every  culinary  temptation,  from 
the  rich  Pennsylvania  butter  to  the  luscious  terrapin, 
wooed  my  stay.  Moreover,  I had  made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  several  literary  men,  whose  conversation  was 
most  agreeable  ; among  others,  the  venerable  M.  Dupon- 
<?eau,  whose  name  is  well  known  to  Europe’s  literati,  and 
who  is  deeply  versed  in  a subject  to  which  I have  given 
some  little  attention,  namely,  the  dialects,  construction, 
&c.,  of  the  various  Indian  languages.  However,  as  my 
time  pressed,  I determined  to  be  blind  to  beauty,  deaf  to 
the  harp,  and  insensible  to  all  other  temptations.  Ac- 
cordingly, at  the  end  of  a week  I continued  my  route  to 
New  York,  not  without  some  difficulty  and  regret.  Here 
again,  I found  myself  among  old  acquaintances,  many 
of  whom  thought  that  I had  gone  back  to  Europe  a year 
ago,  others  that  I had  been  scalped  by  the  Pawnees.  In- 
deed, it  was  most  fortunate  that  I returned  from  those 
treacherous  Indians  in  the  autumn,  for  they  thought  pro- 
per this  spring  to  join  themselves  to  the  Camanches,  a 
numerous  and  warlike  tribe  in  the  south-west,  in  con- 
junction with  whom,  and  upon  some  slight  provocation, 
they  attacked  a small  trading  station  called  Coffee  Fort 
(garrisoned  by  about  sixty  men),  which  they  took,  and 
killed  all  the  garrison  except  one  \ Had  the  Seminole 
war  and  the  other  causes  of  Indian  excitement,  occurred 
while  I was  in  the  West,  it  is  probable  that  I and  all 
other  whites,  who  were  in  their  power  at  the  time,  would 
have  been  destroyed.  Indeed,  Indian  affairs  in  general 


DINNER  ON  ST.  GEORGE’S  DAY.  197 

began  now  to  wear  a very  threatening  aspect.  The  war- 
belt  has  passed  in  secret  from  the  Seminoles  to  many 
northern  and  western  tribes.  The  American  army  was 
too  feeble  in  number  to  protect  one  quarter  of  the  fron- 
tier; and  although  the  government  proposed  to  increase 
it  to  ten  or  twelve  thousand,  it  would  still  be  totally  in- 
sufficient, unless  some  of  the  state  militias  are  called 
out.  These  bodies  of  men  are  (except  in  defending  their 
own  home)  always  more  troublesome  and  expensive,  and 
less  efficient,  than  regular  troops  ; and  the  raising  such  a 
force  must  be  a very  great  inconvenience  in  the  western 
states,  where  every  man’s  labour  is  required  on  his  farm 
or  settlement. 

The  weather  in  New  York  at  this  season  (the  latter 
end  of  April)  was  extremely  changeable;  and  as  the 
streets  had  not  been  cleaned  since  the  winter,  we  expe- 
rienced the  most  agreeable  alterations  of  dust  and  mud 
that  I ever  remember  to  have  seen.  Indeed  it  would  be 
ne  exaggeration  to  affirm,  that  the  principal  streets  were 
more  filthy  and  more  impassable  from  clouds  of  dust, 
than  the  worst  alleys  and  by-streets  in  Glasgow  or  Man- 
chester. 

On  St.  George’s  day  we  had  a great  dinner,  given  by 
the  St.  George’s  Society,  a benevolent  and  charitable  in- 
stitution which  assists  destitute  Englishmen  who  find 
themselves  without  friends  or  money  in  this  city.  The 
company  at  dinner  consisted  of  a hundred  and  fifty  or  two 
hundred  persons,  including  many  of  the  most  respectable 
gentlemen  in  New  York.  The  dinner,  wines,  and  music,, 
were  good  ; and  the  toasts  were  all  thoroughly  English, 
and  given  with  English  feeling  ; nor  do  I believe  that 
King  William’s  health  was  ever  drunk  at  the  Thatched 
House  or  London  Tavern  with  such  unbounded,  up- 
roarious, and  long-continued  cheers,  as  at  this  trans- 
atlantic meeting.  My  blood  warmed,  and  my  spirit  was 
stirred  at  hearing  the  names,  the  sentiments,  the  songs, 
associated  with  my  youth  and  childhood,  u familiar  in 
men’s  mouths”  so  many  thousand  miles  from  home ; 
and  I felt  pleasure  in  hearing  from  many  sons  of  Britain 
present,  that,  though  their  lot,  with  that  of  their  wives, 
brethren,  and  children,  is  now*  cast  in  this  western  con- 

R* 


198 


RETURN  TO  NEW  YORK. 


tinent,  they  look  back  with  affection  upon  their  parent — 
with  reverence  upon  her  institutions,  and  upon  her  glories 
with  pride.  Long  may  the  feeling  be  cherished — widely 
may  it  be  spread — and  never  may  any  temporary  causes 
of  disagreement  again  make  the  nations  forget  their 
identity  of  language  and  blood  ! 

During  the  first  week  in  May,  I went  down  one  day 
to  the  races  on  Long  Island.  The  running  was  not  re- 
markable in  point  of  time,  but  a trotting  match  between 
three  first-rate  horses  made  ample  amends  ; it  was  ad- 
mirably contested,  and  the  speed  exceeded  anything 
which  I had  ever  seen  : the  winner,  “ Flying  Dutchman,” 
performed  his  first  two  miles  in  five  minutes  eighteen 
seconds  ; his  second,  in  five  minutes  seventeen  seconds, 
in  harness  ! The  second  horse  was  not  more  than  a few 
lengths  behind. 

About  this  time  I went  up  the  Hudson  River  to  pay 
a visit  to  a friend  at  his  country  seat,  called  Danskamer, 
on  the  western  bank  of  the  river.  It  is  a most  beautiful 
situation,  elevated  about  two  hundred  feet  above  the 
water;  the  grounds  are  undulating  and  varied.  A new 
house  was  in  progress  which  promised  to  be  one  of  the 
best  country-houses  in  America,  being  built  of  solid 
stone  ; the  ornamental  parts,  as  the  columns,  pediments, 
&c.,  of  the  portico,  were  of  granite.  The  site  commands 
a beautiful  view  of  the  Hudson,  covered  with  hundreds 
of  boats  and  sloops,  bearing  the  produce  of  the  different 
farms  and  villages  down  to  New  York;  beyond  is  the 
gentle  and  highly  cultivated  slope  of  Duchess  County, 
while  the  back-ground  is  filled  with  the  outline  of  the 
highlands  stretching  eastward  into  Connecticut.  I found 
that  much  attention  was  here  paid  to  agriculture  and  to 
sheep ; of  the  latter  a great  many  were  of  the  Merino 
and  Saxon  breeds,  as  the  sale  of  wool  has  lately  become 
the  object  of  much  lucrative  speculation  in  New  York. 

After  a few  days  spent  in  these  agreeable  country 
quarters,  I returned  to  that  city. 


INSTITUTIONS  OF  AMERICA. 


199 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


Institutions  and  Society  in  the  United  States. — Importance  of  the 
Labouring  Class. — Non-existence  of  Pauperism. — State  of  Crime. — 
Education. — Political  Instit  utions  of  America. — Slavery  in  the  United 
States — Contradiction  in  the  Theory  of  American  Government. — 
Expedient  for  the  gradual  Extinction  of  Slavery. — Its  Non-efficiency. 
— State  of  Religion  in  America. — The  Voluntary  System. — Religious 
Sects. — American  Society. — Education. — Style  of  Oratory  in  Con* 
gress. — Officers  of  the  Army  and  Navy. — American  Ladies. — Intona- 
tion of  Voice. — Academies. — Independent  Manner  and  Opinion  of 
American  Ladies. — Marriage. — National  Vanity. 


During  my  stay  in  New  York,  I occupied  myself  in 
collecting  and  compiling  the  rough  notes  which  I had 
from  lime  to  time  sketched  of  the  leading  features  that 
mark  the  character  of  the  institutions  and  society  in  the 
United  States.  It  is  with  much  diffidence  that  I now 
lay  them  before  the  reader,  being  well  aware  that  in  the 
course  of  my  rambles  I have  devoted  too  much  time  to 
pleasure,  and  have  too  often  culled  the  flowers  of  amuse- 
ment when  I ought  to  have  been  engaged  in  gathering 
the  fruits  of  useful  information.  There  is  one  considera- 
tion, however,  which  materially  diminishes  my  unwilling- 
ness to  enter  upon  a subject  so  full  of  difficulties ; and  it 
is,  that,  after  a serious  and  unsparing  self-examination,  I 
can  conscientiously  affirm,  that  I came  to  the  United 
States  without  prejudice  or  predisposition  of  any  kind, 
and  have  formed  my  judgment  from  what  I have  seen, 
and  not  from  anything  that  I have  read. 

In  examining  the  structure  of  society  in  any  country, 
it  would  seem  natural  to  commence  with  that  class  which 
forms  its  basement  or  foundation.  If  such  be  the  pro- 
per course  in  examining  the  condition  of  other  countries, 
more  especially  must  it  be  so  in  America,  where  the 
operative  or  labouring  class  is  possessed  of  privileges  and 
power  so  great  as  to  render  it,  in  fact,  master  both  of 
the  government  and  of  the  constitution.  I am  well 


200 


THE  LABOURING  CLASS. 


aware  that  the  phrase  “labouring  class”  is  distasteful  in 
the  United  Slates  to  those  to  whom  it  is  applied  ; but 
that  is  of  little  consequence,  so  long  as  the  reader  un- 
derstands that  I use  it  in  reference  to  all  labourers  and 
artizans,  and  to  those  in  general  who  earn  their  daily 
bread  by  the  sweat  of  their  brow.  It  is  this  class,  this 
broad  basis  of  society,  which  strikes  the  traveller  in 
America  with  the  greatest  surprise  and  admiration,  and 
of  which  the  native  American  may  be  justly  proud. — 
Pauperism,  that  gaunt  and  hideous  spectre,  which  has 
extended  its  desolating  march  over  Asia  and  Europe, 
destroying  its  victims  by  thousands,  even  in  the  midst  of 
luxury  and  wealth,  has  never  yet  carried  its  ravages  into 
the  United  States  : this  is  a blessing  of  which  it  is  to  be 
feared  few  appreciate  the  magnitude,  and  which  is,  of 
itself,  a preponderating  weight  in  the  balance  of  national 
happiness. 

Among  the  thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  whom 
the  tide  of  emigration  annually  pours  into  the  Atlantic 
seaports,  and  many  of  whom  arrive  without  money  or 
friends,  or  health,  or  skill  wherewith  to  procure  subsis- 
tence, great  numbers  suffer  the  extremities  of  hardship 
and  want,  especially  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  towns 
where  they  are  set  ashore  ; but  these  cases  can  have  no 
reference  whatever  to  ihe  internal  condition  of  the  Uni- 
ted States  ; and  it  is  a fact  no  less  surprising  than  pleas- 
ing to  record,  that,  during  two  years  spent  in  travelling 
through  every  part  of  the  Union,  I have  only  once  been 
asked  for  alms,  and  that  once  was  by  a female  who  was 
very  unwell,  and  who,  although  decently  dressed,  told 
me  that  she  wanted  a bit  of  money  to  buy  some  food. 

The  labouring  class  are  fully  aware  of  their  own 
power  in  the  state,  and  have,  more  than  once,  formed 
themselves  into  associations,  under  the  expressive  but 
plebeian,  name^of  “ Workies,”  which  have  proved  ex- 
tremely unmanageable  in  endeavouring  to  force  an  in- 
crease of  wages,  and  in  similar  infractions  of  the  pri- 
vileges of  other  classes  in  the  community. 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  foregoing  observations,  that 
crime  ought  to  be  of  comparatively  rare  occurrence  in 
the  United  States,  as  the  two  chief  incentives  to  its  com- 


POLITICAL  INSTITUTIONS. 


201 


mission,  i.  e.  want  of  food,  and  want  of  employment,  are 
almost  unknown.  Nevertheless,  here  as  elsewhere,  hu- 
man nature  displays  its  innate  predisposition  to  vice,  and 
T do  not  find  that  the  proportion  of  the  latter,  if  esti- 
mated upon  the  census  of  population,  is  much  less  than 
in  Great  Britain.  There  is,  however,  another  circum- 
stance which  has  a gradual,  and  I trust,  a certain  tenden- 
cy to  diffuse  an  improved  morality  throughout  the 
Union  ; I refer  to  the  advantages  of  education  enjoyed 
by  the  children  of  the  poorest  class  in  every  inhabited 
part  of  the  country. 

If  a practical  statesman  was  required  to  point  out  two 
principal  a 'priori  tests  of  the  permanent  prosperity  of  a 
nation,  I think  he  could  scarcely  select  any  preferable  to 
those  here  adduced  : — first,  that  every  adult  should  be 
able  to  read  and  write;  secondly,  that  every  able-bodied 
man  wdlling  to  work  should  find  employment,  at  a rate 
of  wages  sufficient  to  insure  him  the  necessaries  and 
conveniences  of  life.  Both  these  propositions,  allowing 
for  the  exceptions  necessarily  incidental  to  any  broad 
political  statement,  may  be  generally  affirmed  in  respect 
to  the  United  States. 

Having  thus  briefly  adverted  to  the  great  advantages 
enjoyed  by  the  labouring  classes  in  the  Union,  it  seems 
proper  to  inquire  how  far  they  are  connected  with  or 
derived  from  the  political  institutions  of  the  country.— 
Here  it  is  that  the  admirers  of  democracy,  Europeans 
as  well  as  Americans,  have  fallen  into  the  error  of  begr 
ging  the  whole  question  at  issue  : they  have  argued  that 
because  America  under  these  institutions  has  advanced 
more  rapidly  than  any  other  country,  in  commerce,  in 
wealth,  in  population,  and  in  every  element  of  national 
prosperity,  that,  therefore,  they  must  be  in  themselves 
the  wisest  and  most  suitable  to  be  adopted  by  other  na- 
tions in  the  civilized  world.  It  would  be  just  as  logical 
reasoning  were  I to  infer,  because  I had  never  found 
my  bodily  health  and  strength  more  complete  than  du- 
ring my  stay  among  (the  Pawnees,  when  I was  overfed 
one  day  with  several  pounds  of  half-dressed  meat,  and 
perhaps  on  the  next,  had  no  food  at  all,  and  scarcely  a 
draught  of  water,  that,  therefore,  such  a diet  would 


202 


POLITICAL  INSTITUTIONS. 


be  advisable  for  a person  residing  in  New  York  or 
London. 

In  this  latter  case  it  is  obvious,  that  the  health  I en- 
joyed was  owing,  not  to  the  diet,  but  to  constant  ex- 
posure in  pure  air,  and  to  the  severe  exercise  and  excite- 
ment which  rendered  the  system  able  to  gain  strength 
under  any  diet  whatever.  Just  as  clear  is  it,  that  the 
prosperity  of  America  is  not  to  be  attributed  solely  to 
her  political  institutions,  but  to  the  circumstances  under 
which  they  have  operated,  which  are  briefly  these  : a 
people,  emigrating  from  the  most  enlightened  and  en- 
terprising nation  in  Europe,  obtained  possession  of  a 
territory  boundless  in  extent,  unequalled  in  variety  and 
fertility  of  soil,  and  watered  by  lakes  and  navigable 
rivers,  such  as  are  known  in  no  other  part  of  the  world. 
Separated  by  an  ocean  from  the  hostilities  and  territorial 
jealousies  of  other  civilized  nations,  they  have  ample 
leisure  and  opportunity  for  the  uninterrupted  develope- 
ment  of  their  immense  natural  resources : under  such 
circumstances,  unexampled  in  the  previous  history  of  the 
world,  population  and  wealth  must  for  a length  of  time 
advance,  without  any  aid  whatever  from  peculiar  insti- 
tutions or  forms  of  government. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  I intend,  from  the  pre- 
ceding observations,  to  draw  any  argument  against  de- 
mocracy ; were  I to  do  so,  I should  fall  into  the  error 
that  I have  been  endeavouring  to  expose.  A republican 
form  of  government  may  be  the  best  and  most  faultless 
that  human  wisdom  can  devise;  my  present  purpose  is 
only  to  show  that  such  a proposition  cannot  be  affirmed 
and  inferred  from  the  general  prosperity  of  the  United 
Stales.* 


* Since  my  journal  was  written,  M.  De  Tocqueville’s  valuable  work 
has  been  published.  That  distinguished  author  has  so  completely  ex- 
hausted the  subject  of  the  political  institutions  of  the  United  States,  in 
respect  of  facts  and  details,  that  they  must  be  familiar  to  every  general 
reader ; I have,  accordingly,  omitted  the  notes  which  I had  prepared 
during  my  travels,  relative  to  the  same  subject-matter;  as  I am  con- 
scious that  they  could  add  nothing  to  the  stock  of  information  already 
before  the  public.  I limit  the  above  observation  to  “ facts  and  details,” 
because  I am  not  prepared  to  say  that  I can  always  assent  to  the  prin- 
ciples upon  which  M.  De  Tocqueville  has  based  his  propositions,  or  to 


SLAVERY. 


203 


While  considering  the  condition  of  tile  labouring  class, 
it  is  impossible  to  omit  all  mention  of  that  extensive 
branch  of  the  productive  industry  of  the  Union,  included 
under  the  head  of  slaves.  It  is  true  that  they  are  de- 
nied the  rights  and  privileges  of  citizens ; nevertheless, 
their  number  (amounting  to  upwards  of  two  millions 
scattered  through  twelve  southern  and  western  states) 
renders  them  too  important  to  be  omitted  in  any  faithful 
sketch,  however  slight,  of  the  moral  and  political  condi- 
tion of  the  United  States.  I wish  I could  pass  it  over, 
for  no  subject  can  be  more  disagreeable  or  more  painful 
to  reflect  and  comment  upon,  than  the  continuance  of 
slavery  in  this  country,  which  boasts  of  being  the  most 
free  and  enlightened  upon  earth. 

The  first  proposition  of  the  celebrated  Declaration  of 
Independence,  the  foundation  of  the  United  Slates  Con- 
stitution, declares  that  “ all  men  are  created  equal,  and 
that  among  their  inalienable  rights  are  life,  liberty , and 
the  pursuit  of  happiness.”  The  first  assertion,  namely, 
the  equality  of  man,  is  true,  in  comparing  mankind  with 
the  Creator ; and  the  second  proposition,  regarding  the 
inalienable  rights  of  persons,  is  also  undeniably  true  ; yet 
both  these  fundamental  axioms  are  directly  contradicted 
by  the  practice  of  half  the  stales  in  the  Union,  whereby 
two  millions  of  their  fellow-creatures  are  debarred  of 
every  right  above  declared  inalienable  ; and  so  far  from 
being  considered  as  equals , are  treated  and  esteemed  as 
domestic  cattle  in  the  slave  states  ; and  if  they  have  by 
any  accident  acquired  their  liberty  and  wandered  into 
New  Yoik,  or  other  of  the  free  states,  the  curse  of  their 
colour  still  clings  to  them  ; and  not  only  are  the  doors  of 
liberal  employment  and  society  closed  against  them,  but 
even  in  the  theatres,  churches,  and  other  places  of  public 
resort,  they  find  ihemselves  separated,  as  if  by  a leprosy, 
from  their  fellow-creatures. 

This  foul  stain  upon  the  honour,  humanity,  and  jus- 
tice of  the  United  Slates  cannot  long  continue ; the  dis- 

the  conclusions  that  he  may  afterward  have  evolved  from  them.  Such 
an  argument  would  be  misplaced  in  a narrative  like  the  present,  even  if 
I felt  equal  (which  I do  not)  to  enter  the  lists  with  so  powerful  an  an- 
tagonist.— 1839. 


204 


SLAVERY. 


ease  is  deeply  rooted,  its  ramifications  extend  even  to 
the  vitals  of  the  body-politic,  and  the  remedies  to  be  ap- 
plied are  proportionally  difficult  and  dangerous;  but 
they  must  be  applied,  and  that  too  at  no  distant  date,  or 
the  gangrene  will  have  spread  beyond  the  reach  of 
medicine. 

I am  well  awrare  of  the  topics  urged  by  the  slave- 
holders in  their  defence  : they  argue,  that  “ slavery  is  a 
system  not  introduced  by  them,  but  handed  down  to 
them  by  their  British  ancestors that  “ the  property 
therein  is  a ‘vested  right;”’  that  “the  crops  of  cotton,  su- 
gar, and  rice,  could  be  raised  by  no  other  kind  of  labour;” 
that  “ the  slaves  are  better  fed  and  taken  care  of  than 
many  of  the  free  labourers  in  Europe ,”  and,  lastly,  that 
“ the  amount  of  capital  invested  in  slaves  is  so  enormous, 
that  a general  act  of  emancipation  would  bring  general 
ruin  upon  the  southern  states.”  All  these  arguments 
are  plausible,  and  some  of  them  difficult  to  gainsay.  It 
is  certain  that,  although  they  cannot  be  allowed  to  out- 
weigh the  obligations  imposed  by  the  laws  of  God  and 
man,  they  are  of  sufficient  force  to  entitle  them  to  serious 
and  patient  investigation. 

Various  are  the  expedients  which  have  been  devised 
for  liberating  the  Union  from  this  depressing  and  demo- 
ralizing infliction,  all  of  them,  of  course,  liable  to  one  or 
other  of  the  above  objections.  The  only  proposal  (of 
which  I am  aware)  that  has  ever  assumed  a definite 
shape  before  the  legislature,  was  that  made  by  Mr.  King 
in  the  senate  (1825),  which  was  honoured  by  the  appro- 
bation of  the  highest  legal  authority  recognized  in  the 
United  States,  namely,  Chief  Justice  Marshall,  who  was 
not  only  the  most  eminent  judge  that  has  sat  on  the 
American  bench,  but  was  himself  a citizen  of  the  slave- 
holding state  of  Virginia,  and  therefore  completely  mas- 
ter of  the  subject. 

The  purport  of  this  proposal,  embodied  in  the  form  of 
a resolution,  was,  that  as  soon  as  that  portion  of  the  fund- 
ed debt  of  the  United  States  for  the  payment  of  which 
the  public  land  was  pledged,  should  be  paid  off,  the 
whole  remaining  public  land,  with  the  moneys  arising 
from  future  sales  thereof,  should  form  a fund  for  the  gra- 


RELIGION  IN  AMERICA. 


205 


(dual  extinction  of  slavery,  by  the  purchase  and  emanci- 
pation of  slaves,  their  removal  to  oilier  regions,  &c. 

This  proposal  was  declared  by  Chief  Justice  Marshall, 
to  be  “ the  most  unexceptionable  and  effective  that  could 
be  devised.”  Without  presuming  to  offer  any  opinion 
on  the  subject,  I think  it  may  be  reasonably  asked,  why 
(since  the  funded  debt  secured  on  the  public  land  has 
been  liquidated)  has  the  above  proposal  never  been  re- 
vived nor  discussed  ? 

The  above  observations  on  the  abolition  of  slavery, 
seem  naturally  to  lead  to  a short  consideration  of  the  state 
of  religion  in  America.  This  is  a subject  on  which  it 
is  ver)  difficult  to  lay  before  the  reader  an  accurate  or 
satisfactory  statement,  because,  in  the  first  place,  it  can- 
not be  embraced  by  fiscal  or  statistic  returns,  and  in  the 
second  place,  it  varies  exceedingly  in  different  parts  of 
the  Union.  I must  confess,  however,  that,  upon  the 
whole,  I have  been  disappointed  in  the  religious  aspect 
of  the  United  States.  There  certainly  never  existed  a 
country  so  favourably  circumstanced  for  the  growth  and 
prosperiiy  of  Christianity  ; the  complete  toleration  of  all 
creeds  : the  general  ease  and  pecuniary  comforts  of  the 
people  ; the  diffusion  of  education  and  knowledge  among 
the  labouring  classes;  the  distribution  of  the  inhabitants 
over  an  ample  extent  of  territory,  in  place  of  their  being 
collected  and  huddled  together  in  myriads  and  millions,  as 
in  the  manufacturing  districts  of  England  ; all  these  ad- 
vantages, great  as  they  must  be  admitted  to  be,  are  neu- 
tralized by  the  pernicious  influence  of  the  “ voluntary” 
system.  There  is  no  part  of  America  where  sufficient 
provision  is  made  for  the  religious  instruction  of  the  peo- 
ple, or  for  the  maintenance  of  a w'ell-educated  clergy; 
some  districts  are  much  better  provided  than  others,  but 
in  all  it  is  changeable  and  uncertain. 

The  fact  is,  that  our  republican  brethren  have  carried 
their  dislike  of  an  alliance  between  church  and  state  to 
such  a height,  that  they  have  hurried  into  the  opposite 
extreme  ; and  while  they  admit  that,  religion,  as  the 
basis  of  all  sound  morality,  is  essential  to  ihe  well-being 
of  a state,  they  have  most  unaccountably  left  it  to  chance 
or  to  the  popular  whim  of  the  day,  whether  it  shall  be 
Vol.  II.— S 


206 


THE  VOLUNTARY  SYSTEM. 


fostered  and  encouraged,  or  neglected  altogether.  I re- 
member to  have  seen  a passage  in  the  Quarterly  Re- 
view, in  which  the  absurdity  of  applying  to  morals  the 
principles  of  free  trade  and  of  the  reciprocity  of  supply 
and  demand,  was  not  badly  illustrated  by  the  following 
question  : — “ It  is  true,  that  the  more  hungry  or  starved 
a man  is,  the  more  he  will  call  for  bread  ; but  does  it 
thence  follow,  lhat  the  more  wicked  and  ungodly  he  is, 
the  louder  will  be  his  cry  for  religious  instruction  ?”* 

The  practical  evils  resulting  from  the  voluntary  sys- 
tem, as  exemplified  in  America,  appear  to  me  to  be  the 
following : — 

1st. — The  dependence  of  the  clergyman  on  the  ca- 
prices of  his  congregation  for  his  subsistence,  so  that  he 
must  either  sacrifice  his  daily  bread,  or  refrain  from  con- 
scientiously preaching  to  them  unpalatable  truths. 

2dly. — And  connected  with  the  former,  is  the  insuffi- 
cient income  usually  accruing  to  Christian  ministers  from 
their  labours : the  average  remuneration  does  not  repay 
the  trouble  and  expense  of  a proper  clerical  education, 
and  (setting  aside  the  enjoyments  and  luxuries  of  life) 
does  not  afford  the  means  of  bringing  up  a family  inde- 
cent independence. 

3dly. — It  has  given  rise  to  a variety  of  sects  without 
end,  some  of  them  the  most  absurd,  others  the  most  extra- 
vagant, lhat  have  hitherto  appeared  in  the  civilized  world ; 
and  as  nothing  is  so  gratifying  to  ignorant  pride  as  this 
right  of  “ choosing  its  own  religion,”  so  is  it  exercised 
with  the  most  thoughtless  indiscretion,  and  those  who 
ought  to  go  to  church  to  learn  the  doctrines  and  rules  of 
faith,  do  actually  go  to  censure  and  criticise  the  preacher. 

Were  I to  pursue  this  subject  fariher,  it  would  lead 
me  into  a discussion  which  ought  not  to  be  introduced 
into  a work  of  this  kind  ; I will  therefore  add  only  one 
other  observation,  namely,  that  if  the  voluntary  system, 
as  exemplified  in  the  United  States,  is  now  insufficient 
for  the  support  of  religion,  its  insufficiency  will  be  more 

* The  above  is  quoted  from  memory,  and  there  may  be  an  alteration 
or  omission  of  a word,  but  I am  confident  of  the  general  accuracy  of 
the  quotation. 


RELIGIOUS  SECTS. 


207 


end  more  evidently  shown  as  population  increases,  and 
with  it  the  number  of  poor,  who,  though  unable  to  con- 
tribute, will  be  entitled  to  expect  its  benefits  and  conso- 
lations ; how  these  are  to  be  accommodated,  when  the 
pew  rents  do  not  even  answer  the  present  demand,  re- 
mains to  be  proved  hereafter. 

Of  the  different  religious  sects,  the  most  numerous  is, 
probably,  that  of  the  Baptists,  subdivided  into  minor  de- 
nominations too  unimportant  to  require  notice.  Next  to 
them  are  the  Wesleyans.  These  two  sects  number  in 
their  ranks  almost  half  the  population  of  the  Union.  Next 
to  these  are  the  Presbyterians  and  Independents,  or 
Congregationalists.  The  Episcopalians  and  Roman  Ca- 
tholics (exclusive  of  the  coloured  population)  are  about 
equal  in  number;  but  the  latter  are  increasing  more  ra- 
pidly, especially  in  the  western  states.  Certainly,  there 
are  two  qualities  which  distinguish  the  Roman  Catholic 
religion  beyond  any  other,  and  those  are,  first,  the  plastic 
readiness  with  which  it  adapts  itself  to  the  circumstances, 
habits,  and  political  opinions  of  mankind ; so  that,  al- 
though it  has  been  for  centuries,  in  Europe,  the  most 
powerful  engine  in  the  hands  of  despotism,  its  tendency 
seems  in  America  to  gather  beneath  its  banner  the  most 
democratic  republicans.  The  second  quality  above  re- 
ferred to,  is  no  less  remarkable  ; namely,  the  zeal  and 
enterprise  with  which  it  inspires  its  priests  to  toil,  travel, 
and  endure  every  kind  of  hardship  in  spreading  its  doc- 
trines and  gaining  converts.  In  this  labour,  especially 
among  the  negroes  and  Indians,  they  put  to  shame  the 
zeal  and  exertions  of  all  other  Christian  sects  ; nor  do 
they  labour  without  effect.  During  my  stay  in  Missouri, 
I observed  that  the  Romish  faith  was  gaining  ground 
with  a rapidity  that  outstripped  all  competition. 

Besides  the  sects  above  mentioned,  there  are  a numer- 
ous body  of  Universalists,  .subdivided  into  Mennonites, 
Tunkers,  and  Shakers;  and  also  the  Mormonites  and 
other  fanatics,  whose  extravagant  tenets  and  disgraceful 
immorality  of  practice  render  them  undeserving  of  the 
name  of  sectarians. 

Having  given  this  imperfect  sketch  of  the  religious 
condition  of  the  United  States,  I proceed  to  make  a few 


208 


AMERICAN  SOCIETY. 


observations  on  the  tone  and  leading  characteristics  of 
American  society.  This  is  a task  much  more  difficult 
for  a hritish  traveller  to  perform  with  accuracy  and  im- 
partiality, than  to  delineate  the  same  subject  in  any  other 
country  in  the  world.  Minute  shades  of  difference  are 
apt  either  to  escape  observation  or  to  offend  some  preju- 
dice, whereas,  manners  altogether  new  and  distinct,  are 
in  some  degree  pleasing  from  their  novelty,  and  are 
easily  represented  to  the  reader. 

As  the  Athenians  used  the  same  expression  to  desig- 
nate “foreigners”  and  “barbarians,”  so  are  the  English 
very  apt  (especially  in  reference  to  America)  to  designate 
as  “vulgar”  all  that  differs  from  the  usage  of  polite  cir- 
cles in  London.  One  instance,  out  of  a thousand  that 
might  be  adduced,  will  suffice  to  illustrate  this  point. 
An  author  who  certainly  has  the  merit  of  ability,  and  who 
claims  that  of  impartiality,  in  commenting  upon  the 
custom  frequently  observed  at  an  American  breakfast- 
table,  of  eating  an  egg  out  of  a glass,  instead  of  eating  it 
out  of  the  shell,  calls  it  “ a nasty  and  disgusting  prac- 
tice.”* I never  ate  an  egg  thus,  neither  is  it  a mode  to 
which  I am  partial  ; but  surely  such  expressions  as  the 
above  are  altogether  misplaced,  in  describing  a custom 
which  is,  indeed,  unusual  in  England,  but  by  no  means 
deserving  of  epithets  so  coarse. 

There  is  another  cause  beside  the  one  above  assigned, 
for  the  difficulty  experienced  by  a traveller  in  faithfully 
depicting  the  manners  of  the  upper  class  of  society  in 
the  United  Stales,  which  is,  that  the  said  society  is  com- 
posed of  individuals  who  meet  indeed  at  Washington, 
and  at  the  watering-places  in  summer,  but  who  come 
from  countries  and  climates  as  distant  and  different  as 
London  from  Rome.  There  are  many  features  of  char- 
acter in  which  a Carolinian  planter  bears  as  much  re- 
semblance to  a Boston  or  Salem  merchant,  as  a Spanish 
grandee  does  to  a Flemish  burgomaster.  I trust,  there- 
fore, that  the  reader  (whether  English  or  American)  will 
bear  in  mind,  that,  although  the  observations  which  I 
hazard  upon  society  in  the  United  States  are  as  generally 


Men  and  Manners  in  America,  vol.  i.  p.  25. 


EDUCATION. 


209 


faithful  as  I can  make  them,  the  number  of  exceptions 
must,  for  the  above  reasons,  be  very  great. 

The  education  of  young  men  in  America  is  not  usually 
such  as  to  give  them  a taste  for  ihe  fine  arts,  or  for  clas- 
sical literature.  The  course  of  study  adopted  is  too  ex- 
tensive, and  embraces  a field  which  it  would  require 
many  years  to  cultivate,  even  to  produce  a moderate  pro- 
ficiency : the  result  is  what  might  be  expected,  that,  al- 
though the  American  colleges  can  now  boast  of  the 
names  of  many  professors  of  deserved  celebrity,  the 
young  men  who  have  been  educaied  at  them  come  forth 
into  the  world  with  a considerable  quantity  of  superficial 
attainment,  but  not  with  that  deep-laid  foundation  of 
knowledge  which  can  resist  the  business  and  dissipation 
of  life.  The  number  of  well-read  scholars  in  America 
is  very  limited.  I know  not  whether  I should  have 
noticed  the  circumstance,  had  not  my  attention  been 
called  to  it  by  the  puerile  vanity,  which  leads  so  many 
of  their  speakers  and  periodical  writers  to  introduce  stale 
quotations  from  the  Latin  authors. 

It  may  be  urged  in  answer,  that  a classical  education, 
such  as  is  given  at  the  English  universities,  is  not  de- 
sirable in  America.  That  may  be  true ; but  it  does  not 
meet  my  objection,  which  is,  that  the  course  pursued  is 
calculated  to  give  a smattering  of  various  branches  of 
knowledge,  rather  than  to  extend  the  range  of  sound  learn- 
ing or  useful  science.  If  Homer  and  Plato  are  not  worthy 
that  so  large  a portion  of  early  life  should  be  devoted 
to  them,  at  least  the  moral  and  political  wisdom  of  Aris- 
totle and  Cicero  deserve  to  be  studied.  Or  even  grant- 
ing that  these,  too,  are  antiquated  and  unenlightened  in 
their  views,  Bacon  arid  Montesquieu,  Newton  and  La 
Place  might  be  made  the  objects  of  careful  and  profound 
study.  Whether  any  of  the  above  authors  are  so  studied 
as  to  exercise  an  influence  upon  the  habits  and  tastes  of 
the  higher  classes  in  America,  beyond  the  walls  of  their 
colleges,  I leave  it  for  themselves  to  determine. 

I think  it  principally  owing  to  the  above  causes  that 
the  young  men  in  the  United  States,  who  are  the  sons  of 
wealthy  parents,  and  in  independent  circumstances,  are 
so  apt  to  seek  their  amusement  in  racing,  billiards,  trot- 
s' 


210 


EDUCATION. 


ting  horses,  &c.  They  are  not  sufficiently  grounded  in 
literature  to  love  it  for  its  own  sake.  There  are  no  gal- 
leries open  to  them,  containing  the  attractive  and  im- 
mortal works  of  the  great  masters  in  statuary  or  in  paint- 
ing. Can  it  excite  wonder,  especially  if  they  have  not 
the  opportunity  and  advantages  of  travel,  (which  it  has 
been  the  absurd  practice  of  some  of  their  authors  and 
critics  of  late  to  deride,)  that  they  shall  seek  for  pleasure 
in  such  pursuits  as  are  within  their  reach. 

It  is  a singular  circumstance  that,  as  the  law  is  the 
gate  through  which  all  must  pass  who  hope  for  high  civil 
employment  or  distinction  in  the  United  States,  it  does 
not  seem  to  be  a fashionable  or  favourite  profession  with 
the  class  of  whom  I have  been  speaking  ; nevertheless, 
I believe  I am  justified  in  asserting  that  of  the  Senate  and 
House  of  Representatives  in  Congress,  as  well  as  in  all 
the  legislative  bodies  in  the  respective  states,  three- 
fourths  are,  or  have  been  lawyers.  This  observation  may 
appear  inaccurate  to  those  who  have  travelled  hastily 
through  the  states,  because  they  may  have  remarked  the 
extraordiary  number  of  majors,  colonels,  and  generals, 
whose  names  appear  in  the  representative  and  senatorial 
lists  throughout  the  Union,  and  they  may  thence  have 
been  led  into  the  error  of  believing  that  those  bodies  con- 
tain a large  proportion  of  military  men  ; but  upon  closer 
inquiry  it  would  have  been  found  that  the  parties  bearing 
the  above  warlike  titles  were,  for  the  most  part,  peace- 
able militia  civilians,  and  limbs  of  the  law.  If  any  Ame- 
rican reader  were  to  take  the  trouble  of  investigating  the 
point,  and  were  to  inform  me  that  I had  much  understated 
the  proportion,  and  that  instead  of  three-fourths,  I should 
have  written  five-sixths,  I should  not  be  surprised  ; at  all 
events,  I have  not  been  guilty  of  wilful  exaggeration  on 
the  subject. 

The  result  is  what  might  naturally  be  expected  ; the 
members  of  the  state  legislatures,  who  are  there  prepar- 
ing themselves,  and  sharpening  their  horns  for  congress, 
are  more  familiar  with  the  details  of  business,  and  much 
more  conversant  with  local  interests  than  the  individual 
members  of  the  British  Parliament ; but  being,  for  the 
most  part,  less  liberally  educated,  and  furnished  with 


STYLE  OF  ORATORY. 


211 


less  general  information,  their  views  are  confined,  al- 
though they  are  most  ingenious  in  carrying  them  into 
effect.  To  this  same  cause  may  be  traced,  in  some 
measuie,  the  declamatory  style  and  interminable  length 
of  the  orations  delivered  in  congress.  It  is  true,  that  no 
reasonable  auditor  would  complain  of  listening,  even  for 
three  or  four  consecutive  hours,  to  Messrs.  Clay,  Web- 
ster, or  Calhoun,  because,  when  these  eminent  men 
speak,  important  facts  are  adduced,  and  important  prin- 
ciples illustrated,  in  a strain  of  eloquence-,  different  in 
Idnd,  but  excellent  in  degree;  yet  there  are  speakers 
(whom  it  might  appear  invidious  to  name)  without  com- 
manding powers  or  attainments,  who  frequently  inflict 
upon  the  house  a speech  of  two  or  three  days’  duration, 
wherein  every  public  question  that  has  been,  or  that  may 
be  brought  forward,  is  vaguely  discussed,  and  wherein  the 
original  subject  of  debate  is  so  completely  submerged  by 
foreign  matter,  that  the  most  attentive  listener  must  be  at 
a loss*  to  know  whether  the  question  under  consideration 
is  a rail-road  bill,  or  the  currency,  the  recognition  of 
Texas,  or  the  Newfoundland  fisheries. 

As  the  greater  part  of  the  practical  business  of  the 
country  is  transacted  in  the  state  legislative  assemblies, 
the  general  congress  continues  (in  deference  to  that  so- 
vereignty of  which  the  several  states  are  so  jealous)  to 
tolerate  these  rambling  and  tedious  orations,  the  chief 
object  of  which  is  to  fill  a certain  number  of  columns  in 
the  newspaper,  to  be  duly  circulated  in  the  neighbour- 
hood whence  the  speaker  is  delegated.  It  seems  to  be 
a kind  of  understanding  or  unwritten  compact  between 
the  orator  and  his  audience,  that  he  be  allowed  to  talk 
without  interruption  as  much  as  he  pleases,  so  long  as 
they  are  not  called  upon  to  listen  to  one  word  that  he  ut- 
ters. Accordingly,  during  the  delivery  of  one  of  these 
triduan  discourses,  the  senate  of  the  United  States  wears 
the  appearance  of  an  orderly,  well-regulated  reading- 
room  ; the  members  being  comfortably  seated  in  their 
arm-chairs,  some  looking  over  and  answering  private  let- 
ters, some  exchanging  a few  words  in  a low  whisper 
with  each  other,  or  with  friends  in  the  strangers’  gallery, 
others  reading  a newspaper,  and  all  evincing  the  most 


212 


ARMY  AND  NAVY  OFFICERS. 


philosophic  indifference  to  the  tedious  harangue  and  ex- 
haustless lungs  of  the  orator.  I have  often  admired  this 
pzitient  endurance  of  an  infliction  which  would,  in  the 
British  House  of  Commons,  have  called  forth  a storm  of 
groans  and  coughs  ; but  I could  not  imitate  it  when  (as 
it  happened  more  than  once)  I had  gone  to  the  senate  on 
purpose  to  hear  Clay  or  Webster,  and  found  such  a 
talker  as  above  described  “ in  possession  of  the  floor:” 
hour  after  hour  did  1 wait,  in  vain,  expecting  him  to 
cease,  and  at  length  left  the  house,  muttering  old  Ho- 
race’s distich : — 

“ Rusticus  expectat  dum  defluat  amnis  ; at  ille 
Labitur,  et  labetur  in  omne  volubilis  tevum  I” 

As  far  as  my  acquaintance  with  American  society  en- 
ables me  to  judge,  I am  inclined  to  believe  that  the  offi- 
cers of  the  army  and  navy  afford  a more  favourable  spe- 
cimen both  in  respect  to  manners  and  attainments,  than 
the  average  of  young  men  who  either  follow  mercantile 
pursuits,  or  those  who,  if  nominally  engaged  in  busi- 
ness, devote  the  greater  proportion  of  their  time  to  amuse- 
ment. The  education  at  West  Point,  although  it  may 
be  faulty  in  some  respects,  is  more  concentrated  in  its 
objects,  and  therefore  more  complete, than  the  course  pur- 
sued at  other  American  academies.  Much  attention  is 
paid  to  the  mathematical  department,  and  the  engineer 
officers  are,  generally  speaking,  thoroughly  conversant 
with  the  science  and  practice  of  their  profession.  On  the 
other  hand,  the  naval  officers  are  justly  proud  of  the  high 
reputation  that  they  have  acquired  even  in  the  youth  of 
their  counlry,  and  are  honourably  desirous  of  maintaining 
it.  I am  sure  that  their  brethren  of  the  sea,  whether 
British  or  French,  will  do  them  the  justice  to  say,  that 
they  are  a body  of  officers  calculated  to  do  honour  to  the 
service  of  any  country. 

The  young  Americans,  especially  those  who  have  not 
travelled,  are  in  general,  very  deficient  in  those  lighter 
accomplishments,  whether  of  mind  or  body,  which  ought 
to  accompany  the  more  essential  studies  in  every  gen- 
tleman’s education.  An  acquaintance  with  the  current 


AMERICAN  LADIES. 


213 


literature  of  the  day,  a taste  for  music  and  poetry,  skill 
in  modern  languages,  are  .attainments  of  secondary  im- 
portance indeed  ; yet  they  lend  an  illusive  charm  to  the 
daily  intercourse  of  society,  and  rescue  the  conversation 
of  the  drawing-room  from  the  insipidity  of  gossip. — 
Even  dress,  and  dancing,  and  the  many  trifling  niceties 
which  tend  to  impart  grace  10  the  motions,  and  polite- 
ness to  the  manners,  are  deserving  of  more  attention 
than  they  have  met  at  the  hands  of  the  American  beaux. 
I have  been  upon  several  occasions  rather  amused  than 
surprised  at  hearing  them  complain  of  the  bad  taste  of 
some  of  the  young  ladies,  who  prefer  the  soc  iety  of 
foreigners  in  the  drawing-room  or  at  the  ball.  The  fact 
is,  that  the  said  belles  possess  the  quick  perceptions  pe- 
culiar to  the  sex;  and  if  they  find  the  foreigner  a belter 
waltzer,  or  more  agreeable  in  conversation,  it  is  not  to 
be  wondered  at,  if  they  lav  aside  their  patriotism  for  the 
amusement  of  the  moment,  and  a pleasant  partner. 

The  American  reader  will  probably  think  that  the  so- 
cial lights  and  shadows  here  introduced  are  illiberal  and 
unjust.  A film  in  the  eye  of  the  observer  will  often  be 
mistaken  by  him  for  a spot  in  the  object  observed  : such 
may  be  my  case  at  present  : meanwhile  I set  down  my 
remarks  as  they  occur  to  me  on  the  spot,  haply  without 
sufficient  deliberation,  certainly  without  intentional  mis- 
representation. 

The  difference  between  the  American  ladies  and  their 
sister  rivals  in  Britain,  is  more  easily  seen  and  felt  than 
expressed  in  words.  All  travellers  have  agreed  in  ex- 
tolling the  beajjty  of  the  former,  their  classic  outline  of 
feature  and  delicate  grace  of  expression,  while  all  have 
lamented  the  fleeting  and  transient  duration  of  those 
charms  which  they  so  much  admired.  Without  pre- 
tending to  decide  upon  so  critical  a subject,  I have  yet 
seen  enough  to  convince  me  of  the  general  accuracy  of 
the  above  remarks.  The  distinguishing  traits  of  Amer- 
ican beauty,  are  a low  pale  forehead  ; a well-pencilled 
eyebrow,  a fine  nose  remarkable  for  the  transparency 
and  expressive  arch  of  the  nostril,  a short  delicate  upper 
lip  ; all  which  features  are  harmoniously  disposed  in  a 
face  remarkable  for  the  classic  grace  of  its  contour. — 


214 


ACADEMIES. 


The  points  in  which  they  usually  fall  short  of  the  beauty 
of  Englishwomen  are  in  whiteness  and  regularity  of 
teeth,  in  brilliancy  of  colour  and  complexion,  as  well  as 
in  the  full  developement  of  bust  and  figure. 

There  is  another  point  which  must  invariably  strike 
the  ear  of  an  Englishman,  namely,  the  intonation  of 
voice  common  to  Americans  of  both  sexes  : it  varies  in 
its  character  in  the  northern,  western,  and  southern 
states  ; but  in  all  it  is  quite  distinct,  and  may  be  called 
a national  peculiarity  : it  has  no  reference  to  pronuncia- 
tion, and  is  observed  by  French  and  German  travellers 
as  well  as  by  the  British,  though  of  course  the  latter  are 
more  sensible  of  it  from  the  language  being  their  own. 
There  are  many  exceptions  to  this,  as  to  every  general 
statement,  and  more  among  the  men  than  among  the 
ladies. 

The  accomplishments  of  the  American  ladies  are  also 
very  different  from  those  of  the  fair  sex  in  England. — 
This  difference  may  be  traced  partly  to  their  education, 
and  partly  to  the  customs  that  prevail  in  society.  The 
great  majority  of  young  ladies  in  the  United  Slates  are 
brought  up  at  schools  ; many  of  these  are  seminaries  for 
the  instruction  both  of  boys  and  girls,  until  they  attain 
the  age  of  ten  or  twelve  years.  I have  more  than  once 
been  told  by  a young  lady  in  reply  to  my  inquiry  whe- 
ther she  were  acquainted  with  some  particular  young 
man  whose  name  had  accidentally  been  mentioned. 
“ Oh  yes  ; I used  to  know  him  very  well  ; we  were 
school-fellows  !”  An  answer  which  surprised  me  very 
much  at  the  time. 

After  leaving  these  early  schools  the  girls  are  sent  to 
academies,  exclusively  devoted  to  French  education  : 
these  academics  so  far  resemble  the  American  colleges, 
that  they  embrace  a very  wide  range  of  acquirement, 
and  therefore  have  a strong  tendency  to  give  a superficial 
knowledge  of  the  variety  of  subjects  presented  at  once 
to  minds,  which  cannot  be  expected  to  be  disposed  for 
laborious  study.  The  result  is  such  as  might  be  ex- 
pected : the  American  ladies  are  more  conversant  with 
metaphysics,  and  polemical  and  speculative  writings 
than  Englishwomen.  In  history  and  geography  their 


INDEPENDENCE  OP  AMERICAN  LADIES. 


215 


acquirements  are  more  upon  a par ; but  in  those  ac- 
complishments which  are  considered  in  Britain  more 
peculiarly  feminine  they  are  less  advanced,  namely, 
dancing,  drawing,  music,  and  needle-work,  as  well  as  in 
the  modern  languages.  Jt  must  be  remembered,  how- 
ever, that  in  these  last,  and  also  in  some  of  the  other 
branches  abovemeniioned,  it  would  not  be  fair  to  institute 
a comparison,  because  they  have  not  the  same  advan- 
tages of  instruction  from  the  best  masters  that  Europe 
can  produce. 

Young  ladies  in  the  United  States  “ come  out,”  or 
u enter  company,”  at  seventeen  or  eighteen  years  of  age  ; 
sometimes  even  before  they  have  leit  school.  This  last 
practice  I cannot  help  considering  extremely  pernicious  ; 
it  distracts  the  young  mind  from  all  study,  and  introduces 
similar  subjects  of  -conversation  among  still  younger 
girls  who  are  not  destined  to  go  out  into  the  world  for 
two  or  three  years  to  come.  A young  lady  whom  I 
knew  in  one  of  the  Atlantic  cities,  the  daughter  of  a gen- 
tleman in  a high  situation,  and  remarkable  herself  for 
naivete  and  quickness,  told  me,  that  when  she  was  at 
school,  some  of  the  elder  scholars  used  to  go  out  fre- 
quently to  evening  parties,  and  when  they  returned,  they 
described  to  the  younger  ones  the  partners  whom  they 
had  danced  with,  and  whatever  had  afforded  them  food  for 
observation  and  amusement.  The  accuracy  of  the  ac- 
count given  to  me  was  indubitable  ; for  my  clever  in- 
formant mentioned  to  me  the  sobriquets  by  which  seve- 
ral of  the  young  men  in  society  were  known  among  her 
school-companions,  and  they  were  droll,  but  faithfully 
descriptive.  This  system  may  be  considered  harmless 
by  some  people  and  dangerous  by  others  : without  inves- 
tigating the  subject  too  minutely,  I think  all  must  agree 
that  it  has  a tendency  to  unsettle  the  mind  for  serious 
study. 

Young  ladies  enjoy  much  greater  liberty  in  America 
than  in  England  or  France  ; they  walk  unattended  by  a 
servant,  and  frequently  receive  the  visits  of  gentlemen 
in  the  drawing-room  during  the  morning  : thus,  either  in 
the  house,  or  in  walking,  or  in  riding,  a young  lady  can 
enjoy  as  much  of  the  society  of  an  agreeable  friend  as 


216 


MARRIAGE. 


their  mutual  inclinations  may  dictate,  without  the  re- 
straints of  the  presence  of  a mother  or  any  olher  third 
party.  This  habit  of  life  gives  an  independence  to  the 
character  which  forms  its  most  striking  feature  in  the 
eye  of  a foreigner.  Neiiher  are  their  opinions  nor  their 
studies  subject  to  very  severe  maternal  scrutiny  : I have, 
upon  several  occasions,  heard  a young  Indy  openly  main- 
tain Unitarian  opinions  with  a Calvinistic  mother  in  the 
room,  and  discuss  some  of  ihe  doctrines  of  Hobbes  or 
Voltaire  with  much  quckness  and  freedom. 

Notwithstanding  the  numerous  exceptions  to  the  above 
remarks,  they  are  generally  applicable ; and  I doubt  not 
that  the  inference  drawn  from  them  by  an  English  mo- 
ther would  be,  that  a woman  so  educated  must  be  lax  in 
her  moral  and  religious  principles.  Such  an  inference 
might  probably  be  correct,  if  one  individual  were  so 
brought  up  in  England,  under  a system  different  from 
that  generally  pursued,  and  therefore  uncontrolled  by  the 
incalculable  power  of  custom  and  public  opinion  ; but  it 
would  be  altogether  inapplicable  to  America,  where  the 
standard  of  female  virtue  is  as  at  least  as  high  as  in  any 
country  in  Europe.  On  the  other  hand,  if  it  be  inferred 
from  these  observations,  that  I prefer  the  system  pursued 
in  America  to  that  observed  in  Britain,  the  inference 
will  be  also  incorrect;  for,  although  exercised  within 
the  bounds  of  propriety,  that  very  independence  of  man- 
ner and  opinion  to  which  I have  before  alluded,  as  form- 
ing a striking  female  characteiistic  in  America,  tends  in 
a certain  degree  to  impair  that  modest  reserve,  that  gen- 
tle bashfulness,  that  “ coy  submission  ” and  “sweet  re- 
luctance,” which  1 have  always  considered  the  most  at- 
tractive and  endearing  attributes  of  woman.  This  is  a 
point  upon  which  J may  be  peculiarly  sensitive  ; but  it 
has  occurred  to  me  more  than  once,  when  enjoying  an 
agreeable  tete-a-tete , either  in  the  drawing-room,  or  in 
the  summer-evening  stroll,  that  the  concession  of  such 
privilege  to  an  ordinary  acquaintance  in  an  infringe- 
ment of  those  rights  which  are  in  England  reserved  for 
the  most  select  friendship,  or  for  the  nearest  kindred. 
This  feeling  would  force  itself  upon  me  ; but  it  must  be 
owned  that  there  is  something  charming,  and  even  flat- 


MARRIAGE. 


21? 


tering,  to  a foreigner  unaccustomed  to  these  habits,  in 
the  innocent  fearlessness  with  which  a young  maiden 
confides  herself  to  his  society  and  protection.  Any  at- 
tempt to  avail  himself  of  that  opportunity  for  doing  or 
saying  anything  that  a mother’s  presence  might  not 
sanction  would,  doubtless,  be  met  with  deserved  resent- 
ment and  scorn. 

As  it  may  be  presumed  that  a happy  marriage  is  the 
“consummation  devoutly  to  be  wished  ” by  most  young 
ladies,  it  would  not  be  uninteresting  to  inquire,  whether 
the  British  maternal  and  governess  watchfulness,  or  the 
American  system  of  liberty  is  more  favourable  to  its  pro- 
motion ; but  I have  not  leisure  to  enter  into  such  specu- 
lations here,  especially  (as  in  Sir  R.  Coverley’s  argu- 
ment) where  so  much  might  be  said  upon  both  sides  ; suf- 
fice it  for  the  present  to  observe,  that  probably  each  sys- 
tem is  suited  to  the  condilion  of  its  respective  couniry. 
In  England,  a marriage  contracted  without  a prudent  re- 
gard to  pecuniary  considerations  and  to  due  provision 
for  a family,  is  generally  productive  of  much  annoyance 
and  unhappiness,  and  consequently  the  advice  and  con- 
trol of  parents  is  highly  desirable.  In  America,  such  is 
the  abundance  of  unoccupied  soil,  so  wide  is  the  field  for 
employment,  and  so  great  is  the  return  obtained  for  capi- 
tal judiciously  invested,  t hat  any  spirited  and  intelligent 
young  man  may,  by  his  own  exertions  and  with  a very 
small  original  patrimony,  maintain  a wife  in  comfort,  and 
ere  long  in  affluence  ; so  that  this  eventful  era  in  life 
does  not  require  so  much  worldly  providence  and  calcu- 
lation as  in  countries  where  the  most  estimable  character, 
and  the  most  devoted  exertion,  may  sometimes  strive  in 
vain  to  win  for  the  wife  the  same  comforts  and  luxuries 
as  those  which  surrounded  the  maiden. 

Another  obvious  remark,  arising  from  the  considera- 
tion of  the  abovementioned  systems,  is  that  the  very 
freedom  of  intercourse,  supposed  to  be  so  favourable  to 
courtship,  and  conducive  to  matrimony,  is  often  produc- 
tive of  effects  directly  opposite.  These  travellers  along 
cupid’s  high  road,  viewing  their  destination  so  plainly, 
and  so  long  before  they  reach  it,  frequently  become 
weary  of  the  journey,  and  either  turn  back,  or  wander 
Vol.  II. — T 


218 


Marriage. 


for  repose  and  refreshment  into  a hotel  kept  by  friend- 
ship; whereas,  in  the  restrictive  sysiem  pursued  in  Bri- 
tain, the  stolen  interview,  and  the  opportunity  snatched 
with  difficulty,  often  lead  the  unconscious  pair  by  abrupt 
and  unknown  paths  to  the  temple  of  hymen.  No  one 
acquainted  with  the  obstinate  peculiarities  of  human  na- 
ture, can  have  failed  to  remark  how  many  an  unhappy 
marriage  has  been  fostered  by  ill-judged  opposition.  The 
flame  of  earthly  love,  like  that  of  religious  zeal,  burns 
most  brightly  when  fanned  by  the  breath  of  persecution. 

The  matrimonial  condition  of  American  women  is  not 
less  different  from  that  of  Engffih  women,  than  are  the 
respective  habits  of  the  unmarried  ladies  as  above  de- 
scribed. In  England,  a young  lady,  by  marrying,  ex- 
tends her  liberty  ; and,  in  fact,  although  it  may  sound 
paradoxical,  increases  her  independence.  She  escapes 
from  the  thraldom  of  a governess,  and  from  the  surveil- 
lance of  a chaperon  ; her  husband’s  name,  and  her  own 
propriety,  are  all  the  protection  that  she  requires;  and 
she  can  receive  at  home,  or  visit  abroad,  whom  and  when 
she  pleases.  This  is  precisely  reversed  in  the  United 
States  ; where  a lady’s  freedom  of  ac  tion  and  indepen- 
dence is  restricted, 'instead  of  being  extended,  by  he  rmar- 
riage.  If  she  were  to  be  seen  walking,  or  riding,  or  dri- 
ving, or  receiving  the  morning  visits  of  the  same  indi- 
vidual who  might  have  been  her  companion  on  such  oc- 
casions before  her  marriage,  the  impropiiety  of  her  con- 
duct would  be  the  talk  and  scandal  of  the  town.  I have 
been  frequently  taken  to  and  from  a ball,  by  one  or  two 
young  ladies  in  their  carriage,  without  comment  or  re- 
mark being  excited  in  any  quarter  ; but  if  a married  lady 
were  to  offer  a place  in  her  carriage  to  a gentleman  on 
such  an  occasion,  her  conduct  would  be  unsparingly  cen- 
sured. It  is  not  my  wish  or  object  at  present  to  deter- 
mine according  to  the  customs  of  any  natron,  what  are 
the  exact*limits  of  propriety  in  respect  to  such  matters; 
but  I certainly  cannot  approve  of  the  line  drawn  as  above 
described  in  the  United  States. 

There  remains  one  more  American  characteristic,  fre- 
quently noticed  by  travellers,  on  which  I wish,  in  con- 
clusion, to  offer  a few  observations.  I allude  to  the  na- 


NATIONAL  VANITY. 


219 


tional  vanity  with  which  the  Americans  are  usually 
charged  by  English  writers.  Its  existence  and  preva- 
lence I admit;  but  I am  very  far  from  viewing  it  as  a 
heinous  offence,  or  as  deserving  the  animadversion  which 
has  been  so  generally  bestowed  upon  it  In  truth,  I 
know  not  any  nalion  that  has  ever  been  distinguished  in 
history,  where  this  has  not  been  a national  characteris- 
tic ; and  certainly  it  never  has  been  carried  to  a greater 
height  than  in  Britain.  There  is  not  a popular  poem,  or 
ballad,  or  proverb,  in  which  our  unequalled  superiority 
over  every  other  people  is  not  set  forth ; neither  is  there 
a sailor  in  our  fleet  who  does  not  believe  that  one  Eng- 
lishman is  equal  to  three  Frenchmen,  as  certainly  as  that 
three  and  one  make  four.  Look  again  at  the  gallant  na- 
tion last  named,  and  see  in  their  drama,  in  their  ballads, 
in  their  proclamations,  whether  it  is  not  assumed  as  an 
indisputable  fact,  that,  of  the  habitable  earth,  France  is 
the  mistress — Paris,  the  capital. 

No  reader  who  is  even  slightly  acquainted  with  the 
literature  of  Germany  and  Spain,  or  of  ancient  Rome 
and  Greece,  can  have  failed  to  observe  the  prevalence 
of  the  same  characteristic  in  all  those  countries,  espe- 
cially in  that  last  mentioned.  The  Athenians,  not  con- 
tent with  asserting  their  superiority  in  arts  and  arms 
over  all  the  nations  which  they  designated  as  “barba- 
rous,” would  not  even  admit  of  competition  with  the  rival 
community  of  Lacedaemon.  The  philosophic  Thucy- 
dides prefaces  an  eloquent  speech,  which  he  records  of 
Brasidas,  the  Spartan  commander,  with  this  parenthesis  : 
“ for  he  was  not  a bad  speaker,  so  far  as  a Lacedemonian 
can  speak”* 

On  the  above  grounds,  I am  disposed  to  view  in  a more 
favourable  light  that  national  vanity  with  which  Ameri- 
cans are  charged  by  most  travellers.  Sometimes  vanity 
will  adopt  the  motto — “ Esse  quam  videri,”  and  then  it 
becomes  one  of  the  noblest  impulses  that,  can  animate 
the  breast.  If  1 were  an  American,  I confess  I should 
be  proud  of  my  country — proud  of  its  commercial  enter- 

* No  English  words  can  give  the  epigrammatic  and  contemptuous, 
force  of  the  original  expression-— ov  yap  udvvarog  rjv , wf  A a/cedai/uoviofr 
eineiv,  &c. 


220 


A DISAPPOINTMENT. 


prise — of  its  gigantic  resources — of  its  magnificent  livers, 
and  forest's,  and  scenery — still  more  proud  should  I be 
of  its  widely  diffused  education  and  independence,  and 
of  the  imperishable  memory  of  its  heroic  father  and 
founder  ! 

I have  already  allowed  this  discussion  to  lead  me  too 
far  astray,  and  I must  forthwith  return  to  my  narrative 
and  to  New  York. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


Vexatious  Disappointment.  — Sail  for  Elizabeth-town.  — Proceed  to 
Plainfields  and  Flemington. — Beauty  of  the  Country. — Addition  to 
our  Party. — Journey  toward  the  Alieghanies. — Nation  of  the  Dela- 
wares.— The  River  Delaware. — Immense  Forest. — A Rattlesnake. — 
ValRy  of  Lackawana. — Anthracite  Coal. — Valley  of  Wyoming — » 
Coal  Mine. — Return  to  Flemington. — Purchase  of  Live  Stock. — 
Embark  for  New  York. — Gambling  Excitement. — The  great  Racing 
Match. — Excursion  to  the  West. — Stay,,  at  Newburgh. — Start  for 
Albany. — Poughkeepsie. — Wedding  Party. — Hyde  Park. — Glorious 
Landscape. — Kinderhook. — A wet  Hide. — Albany. — Dutch  Church, 
— Falls  of  Cohoes  — ThePatroon’s  House  and  Family. — Lake  Otsego. 
— Hyde  Hall. — Cooper’s  Town  — Dinner  with  Mr.  Cooper,  the  cele- 
brated Novelist. — Prosperity  of  the  Towns  between  New  York  and 
Buffalo. — Terms  of  political  Abuse. — Oneida  Indians. — Canandaigua. 
— Journey  resumed. 

On  the  17th  of  May,  I prepared  to  leave  New  York, 
and  to  accompany  a friend  on  an  excursion  into  the 
western  part  of  Pennsylvania.  I agreed  to  meet  him  on 
board  the  steam-boat  which  was  to  convey  us  to  Eliza- 
beth-town,  in  New  Jersey.  I was  very  busy  this  morn- 
ing, and  had  allowed  myself  the  exact  time  requisite  for 
reaching  the  pier  at  the  appointed  hour  : accordingly, 
with  only  five  minules  lo  spare,  I got  into  a hack-car- 
riage, and  in  going  down  Broadway,  found  myself  jam- 
med into  an  apparently  interminable  mass  of  vehicles, 
with  half-a-dozen  drays  before  me,  as  many  huge  carts 
piled  with  cotton  behind,  and  wagons  and  omnibuses  on 
each  side.  Never  did  I view  with  so  evil  an  eye  the 
flourishing  business  and  commerce  of  New  York.  Es- 
cape was  impossible  : I saw  the  cruel  minute-handj  on 


LEAVE  .NEW  YORK. 


a great  clock,  quietly  approaching  the  fatal  hour,  and  I 
knew  1 hat  the  inexorable  steamer  would  not  wait  five 
minutes  for  President  Jackson  and  all  his  cabinet. 

At  length  I contrived  to  leap  from  the  carriage,  and 
running  at  full  speed  to  the  wharf  (on  a very  hot  day) 
had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  boat  go  off  when  I was 
within  a hundred  yards  of  her.  She  carried  off,  too,  my 
companion  and  my  luggage,  which  was  all  on  board.. 
These  are  the  real  occasions  for  exercising  philosophy, 
especially  when  a man  is  hot,  dusty,  vexed,  and  disap- 
pointed; and  I will  appeal  to  any  reasonable  man  whether 
my  conduct  on  this  occasion  was  not  worthy  of  Socrates 
or  Plato  Having  ascertained  that  another  boat  sailed 
in  three  or  four  hours,  J went  and  paid  a morning  visit  to 
some  young  ladies  who  lived  at  no  great  distance,  in 
whose  agreeable  society  and  conversaiion  I soon  forgot 
my  steam-boat  sorrows  and  disappointments. 

In  the  afternoon  I sailed,  and  leaving  on  the  left  the 
neat  villas  and  sloping  gardens  of  Staten  Island,  soon 
found  myself  at  the  port  of  Elizabeth,  about  two  miles 
from  the  town,  which  I reached  before  six  in  the  even- 
ing. Here  I rejoined  my  companion  and  my  portman- 
teau. Elizabeth-town  is  rapidly  increasing  in  popula- 
tion, and  in  the  value  of  real  property,  and  if  the  pro- 
posed internal  improvements  are  carried  through  in  New 
Jersey,  it  will,  at  some  future  period,  be  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal places  of  deposite  of  western  produce  passing  to 
New  York,  with  which  city  it  will  erelong  be  connected 
by  a rail-road. 

Not  finding  any  stage  about  to  start  in  the  direction 
in  which  w?e  wished  to  travel,  we  hired  a carriage  and 
pair,  and  drove  to  a place  called  Plainfields  ; there  we 
slept,  and  proceeded  in  the  morning  to  Flemington,  a 
village  about  fifty  miles  to  the  west-south-west  of  Eliza- 
beth-iown.  The  country  through  which  we  passed  was 
generally  flat,  although  to  ihe  north  we  could  descry  a 
bold  outline  of  wooded  upland.  Nature  wras  in  her  fresh 
spring  attire,  and  although  the  snows  and  rigours  of  win- 
ter had  been  unusually  severe,  the  gentle  May  had  begun 
to  assert  her  vernal  rights  ; the  orchards  were  all  povv- 
T* 


222 


NEW  JERSEY. 


dered  with  blossoms ; the  meadow-lark  hovered  blithely 
over  the  sweet  young  clovei,  in  which 

New-born  flocks  in  rustic  dance, 

Frisking,  plied  their  feeble  feet ; 

the  lilac,  the  sweetbrier,  and  the  sweet  grape  perfumed 
the  air;,  and  harmonizing  with  the  sounds  which  filled 
the  ear,  and  the  landscape  which  pleased  the  eye,  in- 
spired the  heart  with  that  “ vernal  delight”  which  our 
great  poet  has  so  beautifully  described  as  “ able  to  drive 
all  sadness  but  despair.” 

The  village  of  Flemington  is  prettily  situated  on  a 
gentle  slope,  rising  above  the  plains  of  New  Jersey; 
and  to  the  south  of  it  is  an  extensive  amphitheatre  of 
heights,  commanding  a fine  prospect  of  the  fertile  and 
wooded  valley,  watered  by  the  southern  branch  of  the 
Rariton.  Here  we  added  to  our  party  a gentleman  who 
was  to  accompany  us  into  the  west  part  of  Pennsylvania, 
and  who  was  concerned  in  the  management  of  a copper- 
mine  which  has  been  successfully  explored  and  opened 
not  very  far  from  Flemington.  With  a rough  wagon 
and  two  stout  active  ponies,  we  began  our  journey  to- 
ward the  Alleghanies.  The  road  led  us  through  a variety 
of  beautiful  scenery,  the  country  being  generally  well 
cultivated,  with  all  the  advantages  of  wood  and  water, 
and  sprinkled  with  farms,  villages,  and  some  thriving 
towns  ; of  the  latter,  the  most  promising  through  which 
we  passed  were  Somerville  and  Belvidere,  which  last  is 
on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Delaware. 

That  river  now  divides  Pennsylvania  from  New  Jer- 
sey, the  valley  of  which  was  once  the  favourite  resort  of 
the  bravest  and  most  powerful  of  all  the  Indian  nations, 
the  Lenni  Lenape,  commonly  known  under  the  name  of 
the  Delawares.  Alas  ! I have  seen  the  remnant  of  that 
tribe  which  once  numbered  its  warriors  by  thousands. 
The  white  man  has  pressed  and  pushed  them  gradually 
westward,  and  their  small  village  is  now  near  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Kanzas  with  the  Missouri,  some  hundreds  of 
miles  to  the  north-west  of  St.  Louis.  In  dress  and  agri- 
culture they  are  half  civilized,  but  in  heart  and  spirit 
they  are  still  Indians,  still  brave  and  haughty  ; and  being 


NATIONAL  DEGENERACY. 


223 


better  armed  than  the  western  tribes,  and  more  accus- 
tomed to  the  use  of  the  rifle,  a small  party  of  them  go  an- 
nually to  the  Kockv  Mountains  to  hunt,  and  ihey  have 
given  several  signal  defeats  with  unequal  force  to  bands 
of  the  Pawnees,  Rickarees,  and  Blackfeet,  by  whom 
they  have  been  attacked.  I do  not  believe  they  could 
now  muster  two  hundred  warriors.  Human  nature  can- 
not help  giving  a momentary  sigh  at  their  gradual  ap- 
proach to  extinction  ; yet  they  are  but  following  in  the 
track  of  nations  greater  and  mightier,  and  apparently  en- 
dued with  stronger  elements  of  vitality.  Instead  of  me- 
ditating with  too  much  regret  on  their  fate,  which  is  the 
natural  result  of  savage  Tree  opposed  by  science  and  dis- 
cipline, we  should  first  inquire  what  has  become  of  the 
race  who  bled  at  Marathon  and  Thermopylae,  and  who 
immortalized  their  land  by  the  faultless  proportions  of  the 
Parthenon,  the  breathing  marbles  of  Phidias,  and  the  yet 
more  glorious  efforts  of  Homer,  Plato,  and  Aristotie  ? — 
Or,  if  we  do  not  wish  to  recede  so  far  in  the  history  of 
the  world,  let  us  ask  what  has  become  of  the  respective 
tribes  who,  in  the  middle  ages,  ennobled  by  their  cou- 
rage, talent,  and  enterprise,  countries  now  sunk  in  idle- 
ness, cowardice,  and  vice  ? Where  shall  we  look  in 
Portugal  for  spirits  bold  as  those  who  first  opened  the 
spices  and  treasures  of  the  eastern  seas  to  European 
commerce  ? Where,  among  the  intriguing  chiefs  and 
bandits  now7  devastating  Spain  in  civil  war,  shall  we  look 
for  the  heroic  and  chivalrous  patriotism  which,  from  the 
time  of  Roderick  till  that  of  the  great  Gonzales,  rendered 
Castile,  Arragon,  and  Granada,  glorious  in  the  annals  of 
history  ? Where  are  the  descendants  of  the  enterprising 
mariners  who  once  bore  to  the  harbours  of  Genoa  and  of 
Venice  the  wealth  of  Egypt  and  Asia  Minor  ? Can  we 
recognize  their  children  in  the  present  divided,  indolent, 
enslaved  inhabitants  of  their  land  ? Or  can  we  believe, 
when  we  look  upon  the  gaudy  colours  and  exaggerated 
designs  of  the  modern  Italian  school  of  painting,  that 
these  men  indeed  are  of  the  same  nation,  have  seen  the 
same  temples,  vineyards,  and  olive-groves,  and  have 
been  warmed  bv  the  same  sunny  sky  as  shone  upon 
Correggio,  Raphael,  Da  Vinci,  and  Titian  ? If  it  is 


224 


THE  RIVER  DELAWARE. 


the  destiny  of  many  civilized  nations  thus,  in  so  short  a 
time,  to  degenerate,  and  die  a moral  and  political  death, 
can  we  spare  much  either  of  our  surprise  or  regret  when 
w e see  tribes  of  Indians  melting  like  snow  from  the 
earth  ?”* 

To  return  to  the  river  Delaware  : — It  has  forced  its 
way  through  the  Blue  Ridge  at  a point  called  the  Wa- 
tergap:  this  passage  through  the  mountains  appears  to 
have  been  made  by  the  pressure  of  an  enormous  body 
of  water,  and  many  conjectures  may  be  formed  respect- 
ing the  date,  extent,  and  other  properties  of  this  supposed 
lake;  but  being  neither  a speculative  nor  a practical 
geologist,  I shall  not.  venture  to  give  any  opinion  on 
the  subject.  I must  not  forget  to  mention  that  the  sides 
of  the  rocks,  at  several  hundred  feet  above  the  present 
bed  of  the  river,  bear  distinct  marks  of  the  action  of 
water,  and  that  in  the  small  dells  and  inequalities  of 
ground  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  are  numbers  of 
round  stones,  such  as  are  usually  found  in  the  channel 
of  a river,  and  of  a different  formation  from  the  rocks 
near  which  they  now  lie.  At  a prominent  point  in  the 
gorge  called  the  Watergap  is  a neat  comfortable  tavern, 
standing  in  a most  picturesque  situation,  and  command- 
ing a fine  view  of  the  Delaware,  winding  through  a con- 
fused mass  of  precipices  and  mountains  wooded  to  their 
very  summit,  while  the  eye  can  scarcely  follow  the 
track  through  which  this  watery  serpent  steals  into  the 
plains  below. 

Leaving  the  Gap,  we  pursued  our  journey  west-north- 
west through  a rough  country,  the  more  elevated  portion 
of  which  formed  what  are  there  called  “ Pine-barrens,” 
and  where  a few  grouse  are  still  left  to  reward  the 
sportsman’s  toil.  The  whole  lower  range  is  an  immense 
forest  of  oak,  birch,  cherry,  white  pine  and  spruce, 
hickory  and  other  nut  varieties,  and  every  species  of 
maple.  I must  not  omit  to  mention  the  most  frequent, 
as  well  as  the  largest  produce  of  these  woods,  namely, 
the  hemlock.  From  some  of  these,  planks  might  be 
cut  of  sixty  feet  in  length,  and  three  in  breadth  ; the  wood 

* This  expression  is  borrowed  from  a speech  of  an  Indian  warrior, 
in  which  he  applied  it  to  his  own  tribe. 


VALLEY  OF  LACKAWANA. 


225 


is  very  inferior  to  the  white  pine  and  some  other  timber 
trees  ; nevertheless,  it  is  cheap,  and  useful  for  various 
purposes.  On  the  road  we  found  a rattlesnake  ; as  we 
approached,  he  reared  himself  on  his  tail  and  offered 
battle  ; there  being  no  superstitious  Pawnee  to  plead 
for  him,  one  of  my  companions  got  out  of  the  wagon 
and  killed  him  with  a stick  ; but  he  proved  extremely 
tenacious  of  life,  and  it  was  difficult  to  make  what  is 
called  “ a handsome  corpse”  of  him.  On  a 'post  mortem 
examination  we  found  that  he  had  eight  rattles,  and  the 
fatal  and  curved  tooth  with  which  nature  had  armed  him, 
was  as  long  as  the  fang  of  a small  dog.  After  all,  he 
was  a mere  worm  or  adder,  compared  to  some  of  those 
which  1 had  seen  in  the  western  wilds,  especially  on 
the  well-remembered  banks  of  Snake  river. 

We  pursued  our  course  westward,  along  a road 
which  runs  sufficiently  near  a proposed  and  surveyed 
route,  for  a rail-road  to  enable  us  to  judoe  of  its  practi- 
cability. It  certainly  appeared  singularly  adapted  for 
such  a communication.  It  is  almost  incredible  with 
how  small  an  elevation  a road  can  be  carried  through 
this  rugged  country,  and  without  any  material  increase 
of  distance  by  circuition.  Passing  along  the  upper 
edge  of  an  abrupt  and  gloomy  ravine,  formed  by  a 
mountain  stream  most  appropriately  termed  the  “Deep- 
roaring Brook,”  and  following  its  course,  we  opened  at 
length  upon  a valley  which  is  already  well  known  to 
the  speculative  and  manufacturing  public  as  the  valley 
of  the  Lackawana,  in  which  river  our  Roaring  Brook 
(like  a romping  girl  when  married  to  a grave  husband) 
loses  both  its  name  and  nature. 

This  valley,  which  is  about  thirty  miles  long,  and  from 
six  to  ten  broad,  is  very  fertile  and  pleasing  in  its  scenery  : 
the  hills  which  rise  on  either  side  are  clothed  with  wood  ; 
but  that  which  forms  the  permanent  and  incalculable 
wealth  of  the  valley,  is  the  enormous  bed  of  anthracite 
coal’  which  subtends  its  whole  extent.  Of  this  coal  there 
appear  to  be  five  strata,  some  of  which  are  from  fifteen 
to  twenty-five  feet  thick;  and  as  the  formation  extends 
for  some  distance  up  the  hill-side,  and  continues  all  the 
way  down  to  the  bed  of  the  river,  facilities  are  offered  in 


226 


COAL  MINE. 


every  direction  for  laking  out  coal,  by  merely  blasting  it 
with  powder  and  drawing  it  out  on  a horizontal  plane. 
All  the  expense  of  sinking  a shaft  being  thus  avoided,  it 
is  sold  at  the  farms  and  villages  in  the  neighbourhood 
for  five  shillings  a ton,  and  if  worked  by  a company  upon 
a large  scale,  might  be  placed  on  a tumpike  or  rail-road 
for  half-a-crown.  When  it  is  borne  in  mind  that  irf  this 
valley  lies  the  nearest  coal  to  New  York,  which  can  be 
transported  there  without  much  difficulty,  and  thence  to 
the  eastern  Atlaniic  cities,  at  half  the  present  average 
price,  it  is  difficult  to  say  (if  the  communication  were  only 
once  opened)  how  soon  it  might  become  the  Newcastle 
of  the  United  Slates. 

After  spending  a day  in  examining  this  district,  we 
followed  the  course  of  the  Lackawana,  till  its  junclion 
with  the  Susquehannah,  and  here  we  entered  upon  that 
valley  familiar  to  every  British  reader  under  the  name  of 
Wyoming;  we  descended  it  some  eight  or  ten  miles, 
and  admired  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  smooth  and 
stately  course  of  the  river,  and  the  gently  sloping  hills 
which  crown  the  distant  view. 

On  arriving  at  Wilkesbarre,  a flourishing  town  situated 
in  the  centre  of  the  valley,  I strolled  out  to  enjoy  the 
scene  in  quiet,  and  took  in  my  hand  the  sweet  legend  of 
Gertrude  to  refresh  and  impress  my  memory  withal.  It 
is  indeed  a pleasing  rural  prospect,  but — (why  was  that 
odious  monosyllable  ever  invented  ? — how  many  a fair 
character  has  been  tainted  by  a but, — how  many  a fair 
picture  has  it  ruined,— how  often  has  it  been  the  means 
of  <4  damning  with  faint  praise  !”  nevertheless,  truth,  like 
murder,  must  come  out,  and  I continue  fearlessly  to  add) 
but , there  are  scenes  farther  south  on  the  same  river,  on 
the  Delaware,  the  Juniata,  the  Shenandoah,  the  Hudson, 
the  Mississippi,  and  the  monarch  of  all — the  Missouri, 
more  rich,  more  fertile,  more  picturesque,  in  shott,  far 
m'ore  beautiful,  whether  judged  by  an  admirer  of  Claude, 
or  Poiissin,  or  of  Salvator. 

Having  given  vent  to  this  rash  ebullition  of  candour, 
I proceed  to  say,  that  there  aie  few,  if  any,  valleys  in, 
America  which  unite  in  the  same  degree,  beauty  of 
scenery  with  a promise  of  enormous  wealth ; like  the- 


ENTERPRISING  SPECULATOR. 


227 


valley  of  Lackawana,  it  is  one  solid  mass  of  coal.  I 
went  with  a gentleman  from  Wilkesbarre,  whow  as  kind 
enough  to  conduct  me  to  see  a mine  worked  by  a coal 
company.  The  stratum  is  twenty-eight  feet  thick  and 
of  great  extent;  it  is  on  the  side  of  a hill,  and  the  coal 
can  be  drawn  out  on  a plane  very  slightly  inclined  ; but 
they  have  fallen  into  an  unaccountable  blunder,  by 
making  their  adit  on  the  upper  side  of  the  formation, 
and  working  downwards,  the  natural  consequence  of 
‘which  is,  that  all  the  water  from  the  surface,  and  all  the 
springs  which  they  start,  runs  into  the  mine  ; and  they 
are  obliged,  in  self-defence,  to  open  a large  drain  on  the 
other  side  of  the  stratum  and  below  it,  to  draw  off  the 
water.  This  sewer  is  inconvenient  and  only  partially 
effective ; whereas,  had  they  made  their  adit  at  the 
lower  part  of  the  formation,  and  worked  upon  a slightly 
ascending  plane,  they  would  have  got  their  coal  out 
more  easily*  and  the  water  would  have  run  off  naturally. 
I should  imagine  that  the  valleys  of  the  Lackawana  and 
of  the  Susquehannah  contain  enough  coal  to  supply  all 
the  cities  now  existing  on  the  earth,  for  a thousand 
years. 

On  the  following  day  we  returned  to  Flemington 
without  accident  or  adventure,  save  that  one  of  our 
party  lost  his  pocket-book  on  the  road,  containing  a con- 
siderable sum  of  money  and  notes  of  hand  for  a yet  larger 
amount.  He  left  us  and  went  bac  k in  search,  although  it 
rained  heavily  and  incessantly.  Soon  afterwards  I learn- 
ed with  much  pleasure,  that  he  had  recovered  it  safe  and 
untouched.  On  the  way,  we  stopped  a night  at  the 
house  of  an  enterprising  and  intelligent  gentleman,  who 
lives  in  the  middle  of  that  enormous  forest,  of  which  he 
owns  a large  portion,  and  has  cleared  no  small  part; 
he  also  was  the  means  of  making  sixty  miles  of  turn- 
pike-road which  is  called  after  him  ; in  short,  he  is  one 
of  the  most  spirited  improvers  and  speculators  that  I 
have  seen  in  this  country.  We  had  several  conversa- 
tions regarding  the  communications  which  might  be 
opened  between  the  Atlantic  market  and  the  interior  of 
Pennsylvania,  the  substance  of  which  it  is  unnecessary 
here  to  record. 


228 


PURCHASE  OF  LIVE  STOCK. 


On  our  return  to  Flemington  we  astonished  the  land- 
lord, who  had  furnished  our  travelling  wagon  and  team, 
by  purchasing  almost  all  his  live  stock  : my  companion 
bought  a large  four  years’ old  colt,  which  he.  found  in  his 
stable  ; while  I purchased  one  of  the  ponies,  which  we 
had  been  driving,  an  excellent,  active,  indefatigable  crea- 
ture, which  had  as  many  alias-e s as  a London  pick- 
pocket, being  called  Dolly,  alias  Polly,  alias  Pop.  We 
also  carried  off  a fine  puppy  of  the  sheep-dog  breed, 
rough,  shaggy,  and  tail-less,  most  properly  called  Brum  ; 
indeed  I could  not  have  distinguished  it  from  a bear  of 
six  weeks  old.  Tying  Polly  behind  the  stage,  we  let 
her  run  to  Elizabeth-town  (about  fifty  miles),  when  we 
embarked  on  board  a steam-boat,  and  readied  New  York 
in  safely. 

The  whole  town  was  on  the  qui  vive,  owing  to  the 
approach  of  the  races  ; on  the  second  day  of  which  was 
to  be  decided  the  great  match  between  the  North  and 
the  South.  I do  not  remember  ever  to  have  seen  such 
a prevailing  excitement  at  a Derby  or  St.  Leger  : stocks, 
companies,  land  and  house  speculations,  politics,  cotton, 
in  short,  all  the  ordinary  New  York  topics  of  interest 
were  forgotten  in  the  one  absorbing  subject.  The  town 
was  full  of  the  gay  and  sanguine  children  of  the  South, 
who  were  easily  distinguishable  by  their  dark  hair  and 
sun-burnt  cheeks,  their  dashing  and  reckless  air,  and  the 
fearless  readiness  with  which  they  staked  their  fifties  and 
hundreds  on  their  pet  horse,  “ John  Bascomb,”  who  was 
so  called  (doubtless  for  good  reasons,  though  unknown 
to  me)  after  a methodist  preacher  of  that  name  in  the 
South.  1 can  only  say,  that,  if  that  worthy  minister  was 
but  as  rapid,  indefatigable,  and  successful  in  his  vocation 
as  his  quadruped  namesake,  he  need  not  yield  to  any  ex- 
pounder of  doctrine  from  the  time  of  John  Knox  to  the 
present  day. 

The  New  Yorkers  were  all  confident  in  the  success  of 
their  horse  “ Post-boy.”  The  day  arrived,  and  the  dust, 
noise,  oaths,  quarrels,  drunken  drivers,  and  overturned 
vehicles,  were  almost  worthy  of  Epsom  , nay,  so  nearly 
did  they  copy  that  great  original  of  gambling,  vice,  and 
debauchery,  that  booths  for  faro,  roulette,  and  other  j 


EXCURSION  TO  THE  WEST. 


229 


games  were  erected,  and  a few  miserable  scoundrels 
actually  went  about  with  pea  and  thimble  ! But  Jona- 
than is  not  so  good  a subject  for  that  most  palpable  of  all 
cheating  as  John  Bull  ; besides  which,  the  performers 
were  in  every  respect  inferior  in  dexterity,  volubility,  and. 
impudence,  and  were  altogether  deficient  in  that  jargdn, 
at  which,  despite  its  course  vulgarity,  i have  more  than 
once  been  compelled  to  laugh. 

The  result  of  the  race  was,  that  the  southern  horse 
won  the  two  first  heats,  and  of  course  the  match.  It 
was  easy  to  see  that  he  was  belter  ridden,  belter  directed, 
and  belter  trained  than  his  northern  rival,  and  he  won 
without  difficulty.  The  exultation  of  the  South  was 
great,  and  the  money  which  changed  sides  on  the  occa- 
sion was  probably  more  than  was  ever  before  staked  on 
a race  in  America. 

After  remaining  in  New  York  a few  days  longer,  I 
prepared  again  to  turn  my  steps  to  the  westward,  and 
accordingly  embarked  my  baggage  and  Polly  on  a steam- 
boat, which  conveyed  me  as  far  as  Newburgh,  where  I 
was  to  pay  another  short  visit  to  my  friend  on  the  Hud- 
son river.  I also  took  up  with  me  a pair  of  black  ponies 
which  I had  lately  purchased,  and  which  I proposed 
carrying  back  with  me  to  Britain.  I took  this  opportunity 
of  revisiting  West  Point  for  a few  hours,  and  found  that 
my  former  impressions  of  the  extreme  beauty  of  its 
situation  were  fully  confirmed, 

After  spending  a day  or  two  with  Mr.  A , I start- 

ed on  horseback  for  Albany  ; crossing  to  ihe  eastern 
bank  of  the  Hudson,  the  first  town  which  I reached  was 
Poughkeepsie.  This  is  a thriving  handsome  town,  built 
on  a slope  considerably  above  the  river.  The  bales  and 
packages  in  the  streeis,  as  well  as  the  shingles,  and  brick, 
and  mortar  in  ihe  suburbs,  speak  plainly  as  to  the  indus- 
try and  enterprise  of  the  inhabitants.  A little  above  the 
town,  and  commanding  a fine  view  of  the  Hudson  and 
surrounding  country,  is  a large  tavern  or  boarding-house, 
which  struck  me  as  being  the  most  neat,  quiet,  and  com- 
foitable  establishment  of  the  kind  which  I had  ever  seen 
in  America.  The  bar  was  separate  from  the  house;  the 
bedrooms  and  parlours,  though  not  large,  were  decorated 
Vol.  II.— U 


230 


HYDE  PARK. 


and  furnished  with  good  taste  ; and  altogether  the  house 
wore  a most  inviting  appearance  to  a traveller  long  ac- 
customed to  hotels,  which  are  so  full  of  noise,  tobacco, 
and  bustle,  as  are  those  of  Ameiican  cities  in  general. 

From  Poughkeepsie  I continued  my  course  to  the 
northward,  and  was  aware  of  a merry  party  coming  in 
the  opposite  direction  ; 1 reined  in  my  pony  lo  see  them 
pass,  and  soon  found  i hat  they  were  under  the  combined 
influence  of  Corrms,  Hymen,  and  Bacchus  ; and  a more 
mirthful  assemblage  can  hardly  be  imagined.  A mar- 
riage had  apparently  been  solemnized  between  two  (if 
not  more)  of  the  persons  present,  who  seemed  to  be  in 
the  humbler  ranks  of  trades  people.  The  “cortege”  con- 
sisted of  twenty  or  thirty  wagons  and  gigs  ; the  horses 
and  the  ladies’  heads  were  all  adorned  with  flowers,  and 
each  squire  had  his  dulcineaby  his  side.  With  a sple- 
netic sigh  over  my  own  celibate  condition,  I let  them  go 
by,  and  rode  on. 

J soon  came  to  the  lodge  of  a country  seat,  which  has 
been  celebrated  by  almost  every  British  traveller  in 
America,  Hyde  Park,  the  residence  of  the  late  venerable 
and  hospitable  Dr.  Hosack.  1 had  never  found  an  op- 
portunity of  delivering  my  letters  of  introduction  to  him 
during  my  former  stay  in  New  York,  and  I first  heard  of 
his  death,  which  took  place  last  winter,  when  1 arrived  at 
Flew  Orleans.  Of  course  his  widow  received  no  com- 
pany, so  I resolved  to  ride  through  the  grounds  and  see 
the  prospect  from  them,  merely  leaving  mv  card,  ac- 
companied by  an  apology  for  the  liberty  I had  taken. 

The  ground  between  the  road  and  the  house  i3  very 
bold  and  undulating,  and  affords  the  means  of  making  a 
preliy  small  lake,  round  which  the  approach  winds  its 
course.  'I  he  house  is  spacious  and  comfortable,  without 
any  pretensions  to  architectural  beauty.  Dismounting  at 
the  door,  I sent  in  my  card,  requesting  permission  to 
walk  round  (what  is  called  in  Scotland)  “ the  Policy 
and  in  a minute  pr  two  was  agreeably  surprised  at  hear- 
ing my  name  pronounced  by  a gentle  female  voice.  On 
looking  up,  I recognized  the  daughter-in-law  of  Dr.  Ho- 
sack,  to  whom  I had  been  presented  during  an  accidental 
meeting  at  a morning  visit  in  New  York.  She  invited 


GLORIOUS  LANDSCAPE. 


231 


me  into  the  house  and  very  kindly  offered  to  show  me 
the  “ lions  among  the  princ  ipal  of  which,  in  doors,  was 
the  library,  a most  comfortable  apariment,  containing 
some  tolerable  pictures  of  the  Italian  arid  Flemish  schools. 
I soon  followed  my  fair  conductress  to  the  other  side  of 
the  house,  where  might  be  seen  a picture  more  glorious 
than  ever  mortal  pencil  designed.  Below  us  flowed  ihe 
Hudson,  studded  with  white-sailed  sloops  as  far  as  the 
eye  could  reach,  even  until  they  looked  no  larger  than 
the  edge  of  a seagull’s  wing  ; the  opposite  bank,  which 
slopes  gendy  from  the  river,  is  variegated  with  farms, 
villages,  and  woods,  appearing  as  though  they  had  been 
grouped  by  the  hand  of  taste  rather  than  by  that  of  in- 
dustry ; while  on  the  northwest  side  the  prospect  is 
bounded  by  the  dark  and  lofty  outline  of  the  Catskill 
range.  I had  only  intended  to  remain  here  a few  minutes, 
as  I had  a long  ride  before  me,  and  the  shades  of  evening 
were  already  approaching;  but,  alas  ! W.  Spencer  has 
truly  sung,  how  often  it  is  that  “ noiseless  falls  the  foot 
of  time;”*  and  surely  if  there  is  any  situation  in  which 
one  may  be  forgiven,  if  “ unheeded  fly  the  hours,”  it  is 
when  enjoying  the  luxury  of  so  glorious  a landscape,  un- 
der the  guidance  of  a fair  and  amiable  cliapnone,  who  is 
herself  not  the  least  attractive,  feature  in  the  scene.  At 
length,  however,  I jumped  on  my  pony,  and  gently  ad- 
monished it  that  its  activity  must  make  up  for  my  lost 
time,  and  bear  me  before  night  to  some  place  where  we 
might  both  find  bed  and  supper. 

About  eight  o’clock  I found  myself  at  a small  place, 
called,  I believe,  Red-hook,  where  I passed  the  night. 
The  following  morning  1 started  at  half-past  four,  and 
reached  Kinderhook,  a distance  of  between  twenty  and 
thirty  miles,  before  breakfast.  This  place  is  classic 
ground  to  the  Jackson  (or,  as  they  are  sometimes  called, 
the  republican)  party,  as  being  the  birth-place  and  early 
residence  of  their  successful  candidate  for  the  presiden- 
cy, Mr.  Van  Buren.  It  is  a neat,  quiet,  little  town  ; but 
does  not  contain  any  objects  of  interest  to  the  traveller. 

At  noon  I pursued  my  journey  towards  Albany.  Rain 
had  fallen  in  the  morning  sufficient  to  wet  me  through, 
♦See  his  little  poem,  “ Too  late  I stayed,”  &c. 


232 


ALBANY. 


inasmuch  as  I was  dressed  in  a light  linen  jacket  and  other 
summer  et  ceteras,  without  great-coat,  cloak  or  umbrella. 
I had  trusted  to  the  continuance  of  the  heat,  which  was, 
when  I left  Newburgh,  excessive  ; and,  in  order  to  ride 
more  conveniently,  had  sent  my  baggage  with  my  servant 
by  sieam.  It  was  fortunate  that  I was  comfortably  wet 
before  I started  at  noon,  because  I might  otherwise  have 
been  annoyed  at  the  series  of  tremendous  thunder-show- 
ers through  which  I had  to  make  my  way  : one  of  these 
was  as  black  and  terrible  as  any  that  I remember  to  have 
seen,  and  accompanied  by  so  strong  a wind,  that,  in  order 
to  keep  on  my  horse,  I was  obliged  to  get  under  the  lee 
of  a shed.  The  cattle  seemed  all  much  alarmed,  and 
cowered  under  every  shelter  which  they  could  find.  For 
a few  minutes  it  was  so  dark  that  1 do  not  think  f could 
have  read  ordinary  print  in  the  open  air;  the  thunder- 
claps were  awfully  loud  and  frequent,  nor  were  they  very 
distant,  for  I learnt  on  reaching  Albany  that  a house  had 
been  destroyed,  and  several  oxen  killed  by  the  lightning, 
Hot  far  from  the  road  by  which  I approached  the  town. 

My  progress  was  neither  pleasant  nor  fast ; for  the 
mud  in  some  places  reached  nearly  to  Polly’s  knees, 
and  the  small  streamlets,  which  I wTas  obliged  to 
cross,  were  swelled  to  the  size  of  turbid  angry  brooks. 
All  these  trifles  were  forgotten  by  seven  o’clock,  when 
she  had  her  nose  dipped  into  a peck  of  good  oats  in  a 
warm  stable,  and  I found  myself  again  dry-clothed,  with 
a cigar  in  my  mouth  and  a cup  of  hot  coffee  at  my  elbow. 

Albany  is  a very  striking  town,  both  as  regards  its  situ- 
ation and  public  buildings  ; of  the  latter  a great  many 
had  been  erected  since  my  last  visit,  nearly  two  years 
before  ; some  of  t hem  were  still  in  progress,  and  promised 
to  be  very  handsome,  the  material  wherewith  they  are 
built  being  generally  marble,  the  greater  part  of  which  is 
brought  from  Sing-Sing.  The  streets  are  wretchedly 
paved  ; but  this  is  an  evil  which  it  is  not  very  easy  to 
remedy,  as  some  of  them  are  extremely  steep  and  hilly  ; 
and  as  the  quantity  of  rain  which  falls  here  is  very  great, 
the  water  rushes  down  them  with  incredible  force,  and 
carries  away  everything  which  contributes  to  support  or 
bind  the  pavement. 


Palls  of  cohoes. 


233 


The  second  day  of  my  stay  being  Sunday,  I went  in 
the  morning  to  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church.  This  sect 
numbers  in  its  ranks  ihe  Van  Rensselaers,  the  Vander- 
poels,  and  many  others  of  the  best  and  oldest  families  of 
Dutch  origin  residing  in  or  near  Albany.  As  regards 
its  tenets  and  ritual,  1 can  perceive  no  difference  between 
it  and  the  Presbyterian  church.  The  building  is  spacious, 
but  not  remarkable  for  any  decorations, external  or  internal, 
except  the  candelabras,  which  are  the  most  massive  and 
handsome  that  I have  seen  in  this  country.  I am  told 
they  were  presented  by  the  Patroon,  but  forgot  to  inquire 
whether  they  were  of  American  or  foreign  manufaciure. 
The  sermon  was  somewhat  tedious,  and  too  illustrative 
of  the  proverb  that  “ a good  thing  cannot  be  too  often 
repeated  ; at  least  it  appeared  to  me,  on  leaving  the 
church,  that  some  men  could  have  put  into  an  argument 
of  five  minutes  all  that  was  contained  in  a sermon  of 
forty.  In  the  afternoon,  I went  to  the  Episcopal  church, 
which  is  not  remarkable  for  architectural  beauty,  and 
heard  the  beautiful  service  and  a harmless  sermon  tamely 
read. 

On  the  following  day  I received  and  accepted  an  invi- 
tation to  dine  with  General  Van  Rensselaer,  generally 
mentioned  by  American  travellers  as  the  Patroon.  In 
the  morning  1 rode  out  with  Mr.  T.  Van  Buren  (the  son 
of  the  Vice-President,  who  showed  me  every  kind  of  at- 
tention and  civility  during  my  stay  in  Albany),  to  see  the 
Falls  of  Cohoes,  on  the  Mohawk  river,  a few  miles 
above  Troy.  We  < ould  not  have  enjoyed  a more  favour- 
able opportunity  for  seeing  this  celebrated  cascade,  inas- 
much as  it  rained  the  whole  day,  as  it  had  rained  for 
three  weeks  previously.  We  were  thus  spared  the  an- 
noyance of  dust  on  the  road — were  cooled  and  refreshed 
during  our  ride  hy  the  “gentle  dew  from  heaven,”  and 
saw  the  Mohawk  pouring  forth  his  turbid  and  discoloured 
waters,  in  a mass  of  nearly  twice  his  usual  magnitude. 
The  scene  at  the  falls  is  very  grand,  but  it  should  be 
seen  by  one  who  has  not  seen  Niagara.  It  is  well  to  say 
that  comparisons  are  odious — they  are  so;  nevertheless, 
the  “great  wonder  of  waters”  will  recur  to  memory — 
its  wreaths  of  spray  and  boiling  cauldron  will  fill  the  eye, 


234 


THE  PATROON’s  FAMILY. 


and  its  terrible  roar,  the  ear  of  fancy — despite  argument, 
and  propriety,  and  philosophy. 

An  observant  traveller  must  be  struck  by  the  activity 
and  stirring  spirit  that  is  everywhere  discernible  in  this 
neighbourhood  : villages,  mills,  and  factories,  are  spring- 
ing up  on  all  sides,  and  it  is  probable  that  Troy  and  Al- 
bany, now  seven  miles  apart,  will  in  a few  years  be  one 
continuous  town.  Half  way  between  the  latter  place 
and  the  Falls  of  Cohoes,  is  an  arsenal  of  the  United 
States,  the  commander  of  which  politely  pressed  his  hos- 
pitality upon  us;  but  we  were  obliged  to  hurry  forward 
in  order  to  be  in  time  for  dinner.  This  gentleman  was 
of  courteous  agreeable  manners,  and  a brave  and  distin- 
guished officer  ; he  was  severely  wounded  in  the  last 
Anglo-American  war  ; — may  it  remain  the  last  for  cen- 
turies yet  to  come  ! 

The  Patroon’s  house  stood  at  the  north-western  ex- 
tremity of  Albany,  and  is  separated  from  it  only  by  a 
few  fields,  which  he,  very  naturally,  will  not  allow  to  be 
covered  with  buildings.  The  house  is  comfortable,  and 
of  moderate  extent,  but  not  remaikable  for  its  architec- 
ture. The  family  party  consisted  of  the  venerable  head 
of  the  house,  his  lady,  and  four  or  five  sons  and  daugh- 
ters. It  is  difficult  to  believe  that  Mrs.  Van  Rensselaer 
is  really  the  mother  of  the  handsome  young  ladies  be- 
side her,  she  appears  so  youthful,  and  her  conversation 
denotes  a fresh,  lively,  and  highly  cultivated  mind.  Al- 
together I have  been  admitted  to  few  domestic  circles 
more  agreeable  ; and  it  is  gratifying  to  see  the  vast  pos- 
sessions of  the  Van  Rensselaers  in  the  hands  of  a gen- 
tleman so  liberal,  and  so  well  calculated  from  his  char- 
acter and  manners  to  make  a sensible  and  generous  use 
of  them,  as  their  present  possessor. 

From  Albany  I proceeded  on  horseback  to  Lake  Otse- 
go, a distance  of  fifty-four  miles,  which  I easily  per- 
formed on  my  active  nag,  in  less  time  than  the  coach, 
which  started  at  the  same  hour,  although  it  had  ihree  or 
or  four  relays  of  horses,  so  deep  and  muddy  were  the 
roads.  Indeed,  I have  no  hesitation  in  saying,  that  it 
was  far  less  fatiguing  to  ride  those  fifty  miles  than  to 
have  performed  them  in  the  stage. 


HYDE  IIALL. 


235 


Olsego  is  a beautiful  sequestered  lake,  and  all  the 
neighbourhood  is  classic  ground,  being  the  scene  of  one 
of  the  American  novelist’s  best  tales,  and  at  the  same 
lime  that  of  his  own  residence.  At  ihe  upper  end  of  the 
lake  stands  Hyde  Hall,  the  seat  of  the  late  G.  C.  Esq. ; 
an  English  gentleman  who  settled  in  this  country  and 
built  here  a house  more  resembling  the  good  English 
’squire  mansions  than  any  which  I have  seen  elsewhere. 
Here  I remained  several  days,  upon  a visit  to  his  widow 
Mrs.  C.  and  others  of  his  family,  and  must  use  the 
tautology  common  to  every  candid  traveller  in  America, 
when  I say  that  I was  most  hospilably  and  kindly  re- 
ceived. 

The  house,  which  is  a plain,  Grecian,  stone  building 
of  large  dimensions,  contains  some  very  handsome  rooms, 
and  commands  a splendid  view  of  the  lakes  and  the 
surrounding  hills  and  woods  ; while  in  the  distance,  over 
the  water,  the  neat  white  iiouses  and  spires  of  Cooper’s- 
town  emerge  from  the  green  and  gently  sloping  shores. 
Among  the  inmates  of  the  house,  was  a daughter  of  our 
hostess  ; she  had  been  married  two  years,  and  been  a 
mother  one,  yet  she  had  all  the  youthful  animation,  glee, 
and  beauty  of  sixteen.  In  such  company,  fishing,  row- 
ing, walking,  and  riding,  made  the  time  pass  so  quickly, 
that  I was  obliged  also  to  remind  myseif  that  I was  a 
traveller,  and  not  a sojourner.  On  Sunday.  I went  down 
to  Cooper’s-town,  where  I heard  a sensible  discourse,  and 
had  the  pleasure  of  dining  and  spending  the  afternnon  with 
the  Waller  Scott  of  the  Ocean.  His  house,  both  in  size 
and  appearance,  looks  like  ihe  parent  of  the  thriving  vil- 
lage in  the  centre  of  which  it  stands.  Before  it  is  a cir- 
cular lawn,  now  the  scene  of  several  pleasure-garden 
improvements  ; beyond  which  the  lake,  with  its  wood- 
ed and  verdant  promontories,  its  sloping  banks,  and  the 
bold  headlands  which  are  at  its  upper  extremity,  forms 
a most  agreeable  landscape  : it  is,  however,  already  de- 
scribed by  the  highly  gified  possessor  in  his  tale  of  “The 
Pioneers,”  many  of  ihe  characters  of  which  are  family 
portraits.  Its  heroine  was  drawn  from  a very  near  rela- 
tive, the  memory  of  whose  Heautv  and  graces,  both  men- 
tal and  personal,  is  still  fresh  in  the  neighbourhood.  She 


236 


ELECTION  SQUABBLES. 


died  early  in  consequence  of  a fall  from  a spirited 
horse.* 

Leaving  the  beautiful  and  attractive  bank  of  the  Ot- 
sego, I proceeded  westward,  on  horseback,  through  Au- 
burn, Syracuse,  Geneva,  and  the  other  towns  on  the 
great  line  of  road  between  New  York  and  Buffalo.  I 
observed  a great  change  in  all  the  villages,  from  the  con- 
dition in  which  they  had  been  when  I last  visited  them, 
nearly  two  years  before:  everywhere,  the  hand  of  indus- 
try, enterprise,  and  improvement  was  visible  ; new 
buildings  and  streets  were  rising  in  every  direction;  the 
value  of  real  estate  has  risen  rapidly,  though  steadily, 
and  everything  indicated  public  health  and  prosperity. 

Jn  the  village  of  the  Falls,  I was  much  amused  by 
seeing  in  the  streets  and  taverns  a printed  notice,  that, 
on  the  approaching  festival  of  the  4ih  of  July,  the  “real 
democratic  Jefferson  Republicans”  were  to  have  a cele- 
bration of  their  own,  separate  from  that  of  the  “ Aristoc- 
racy” with  whom  they  would  have  nothing  to  do.  The 
strange  and  amusing  feature  of  this  notice  was,  that  the 
“real  Jefferson  Republicans”  here  meant  the  Whigs  ; 
and  the  Van  Burenites  were  styled  the  Aristocracy, 
which  appellations  were  (as  is  well  known)  in  direct  con- 
tradiction to  the  usual  terms  of  odium  used  by  the  re-* 
spective  parties.  It  is  not  worth  while  in  any  country 
to  waste  much  time  in  inquiring  into  the  propriety  of  the 
terms  of  abuse  to  which  election  squabbles  give  rise  ; it 
is  sufficient  to  say,  that  if  they  wish,  in  any  part  of 
America,  to  affix  the  stigma  of  unpopularity  upon  any 
man,  it  is  usual  to  call  him  an  aristocrat. 

At  Syracuse,  I saw  a few  Indians  of  the  Oneida  tribe  ; 
but  oh  ! how  different  from  the  erect  bearing,  clean 
sinewy  limbs,  and  fierce  air  of  the  savages  beyond  the 
Missouri  ! Here  they  were  squalid,  diminutive,  and  de- 
graded, even  in  all  qualities  belonging  to  their  rape. 
About  two  hundred  and  fifty  of  them  remain  in  their 
small  village,  seven  miles  south  of  Syracuse,  and  per- 
haps as  many  more  reside  in  the  vicinity  of  Buffalo  ; 

* Mem. — The  Susquehannah  rises  at  Cooper’s-town,  and  its  infant 
channel  is  fed  by  ♦he  waters  which  escape  from  Otsego  lake.  Otsego 
signifies,  in  the  Mohawk  tongue,  the  “stone”  or  “ place  of  salutation.” 


ONEIDA  INDIANS. 


237 


and  this  is  all  that  remains  of  the  once  powerful  tribe, 
commonly  called  Oneida,  whose  real  name  was  Onieut- 
kah,  or  the  Standing-Stone-People,  who  formed  a part 
of  the  celebrated  live  nations  (before  the  admission  of 
the  Tuscaroras,)  and  who,  from  their  superior  skill  in 
the  construction  of  their  wigwams,  were  generally  known 
among  surrounding  tribes  by  the  appellation  of  the  O-di- 
nach-sho-ni,  or  the  House-builders. 

Proceeding  westward,  I arrived  at  Canandaigua, 
where  I had  the  pleasure  of  again  paying  a visit  to  one 
or  two  valued  acquaintances  from  my  own  father-land, 
and  who  received  me  with  the  same  kind  hospitality 
which  I had  experienced  from  them  two  years  before. 

I remained  two  days  in  this  social  and  beautiful  vil- 
lage; then  borrowing  a car  from  one  of  my  friends,  1 
embarked  myself,  my  servant,  and  luggage  on  it,  and 
placed  the  whole  astern  of  poor  Polly  : the  day  was 
intensely  hot,  and  she  must  have  thought  me  most  un- 
merciful ; however,  there  was  no  other  means  of  con- 
veyance, and  I consoled  myself  with  the  reflection  that 
it  was  only  thirty-two  miles.  Polly  performed  her  part 
with  astonishing  perseverance,  and  I arrived  early  in  the 
afternoon  at  the  place  of  my  destination. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


Falls  of  Genesee. — Commerce  versus  Romance. — Captain  Jones. — Ap- 
proach to  Ithaca — The  Town. — Railroad  to  Owega. — The  Wind- 
Gap — Easton. — Patios  of  the  District. — Episcopal  Church — Ride 
to  Bethlehem. — A German  Emigrant  — Embark  for  New  York. — 
p.-»r^.ations  for  Return  to  England. — Embark  in  “The  Oxford.” 
Party  in  the  Uaom.— ii;u,  tko  Amorican  Comodian. Prnfipp.rotis 

Voyage. — Home. 

Among  the  “ lions”  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  lovely 
and  fertile  valley  of  Genesee,  not  the  least  worthy  of  at- 
tention are  the  falls  of  that  river,  at  a point  called  the 
Portage.  The  banks  are  two  or  three  hundred  feet  in 
precipitous  height,  and  the  scenery  around  is  bold  and 
picturesque.  There  are  three  separate  cataracts  or 


238 


FALLS  OF  GENE3EE. 


cascades  about  half  a mile  apart ; their  height  is  conside- 
rable, and  they  are  as  yet  unmaired  by  the  beautifying 
hand  of  man  ; altogether,  they  are  second  only  to  the 
great  “ wonder  of  waters,”  and  will  bear  comparison  with 
any  other  which  I have  seen  in  America.  Alas,  for  the 
world  of  poetry  and  romance  ! the  hallowed  Niagara, 
the  poet’s  theme,  the  mighty  outlet  of  ocean-lakes,  is 
now  become  a money-speculation  ! Shades  of  Ruysdael 
and  Salvator — of  Homer  and  of  Byron  ! — could  ye  rest 
unappeased  did  ye  but  know  that  those  “ floods  and  foam- 
ing falls”  which  ye  would  have  travelled  thousands  of 
miles  to  see  and  to  hear,  are  now  “calculated”  as  water- 
power  for  driving  mills  and  factories  ? “ Lots”  are  being 

“ laid  out,”  a ship  canal  is  to  be  formed,  and  the  spot  is 
to  be  made  the  seat  of  one  of  the  greatest  commercial 
and  manufacturing  towns  in  the  West.  It  is  useless  to 
complain;  as  the  white  man  presses  back  the  “red  lord 
of  the  woods,”  so  must  wealth,  commerce,  and  enter- 
prise, press  out  and  destroy  the  romantic  beauties  of 
nature. 

During  my  stay  in  this  neighbourhood,  I went  once  or 
twice  to  see  a western  veteran,  named  Captain  Jones. 
He  was,  at  the  time  of  my  visit,  aged  probably  a little 
more  than  seventy  years,  and  was  taken  prisoner  when 
a boy  by  a band  of  the  Seneca  tribe  in  their  attack  upon 
Wyoming,  where  he  and  his  parenis  then  lived.  He 
was  adopted  by  the  tribe,  and  lived  with  them  upwards 
of  twenty  years  ; since  which  time  he  has  been  in  con- 
stant intercourse  with  them,  and  has  acted  in  the  capa- 
city of  interpreter  in  many  treaties  and  “talks.”  Of 
course  he  speaks  their  language  and  knows  all  their  ha- 
bits as  well  as  a native  Seneca,  and  he  can  also  speak  and 
understand  a ^ood  dp-aLnf- th**  M nUwk,  Oneida,  and  other 
“ Six-nation”  languages.  I had  several  long  conversa- 
tions with  him  upon  aboriginal  character,  customs,  &c., 
and  I found  that  the  old  man  was  at  heart  more  than  half 
Indian.  He  spoke  of  many  of  the  red  men  with  an  af- 
fection quite  fraternal,  and  his  general  impression  of  their 
qualities  was  much  more  favourable  than  that  which  I 
received  during  my  residence  among  them  ; but  two 
things  must  be  remembered,  first,  his  own  judgment  was 


ITHACA. 


239 


liable  to  be  prejudiced  by  his  being  so  long  identified 
with  the  Senecas,  that  even  now  the  pride  ot  ihe  tribe 
is  strongly  to  be  remarked  in  his  expressions;  and,  se- 
condly, 1 have  every  reason  to  believe,  from  all  my  later 
inquiries  and  observations,  that,  of  all  the  great  tribes 
uncontaminated  by  civilization  (alias  whiskey),  the  most 
mischievous,  treacherous,  and  savage  are  my  old  friends 
the  Pawnees.  Captain  Jones  told  me  that  they  had  that 
character  among  all  the  Indians  whom  he  had  known.  One 
thing,  at  least,  should  be  borne  in  mind,  that,  although 
some  of  the  general  Indian  characteristics  obtain  through 
all  the  tribes,  there  are  other  important  features  in  which 
they  differ  as  much  as  the  Russian  fiom  the  Spaniard,  or 
the  Britain  from  the  Italian. 

On  my  return  eastward  toward  the  Atlantic  cities,  I 
determined  to  take  a southerly  course  toward  Easton  in 
Pennsylvania,  where  1 had  promised  to  meet  some  gen- 
tlemen whose  acquaintance  I had  made  in  my  former 
tour  through  Pennsylvania.  This  route  took  me  down 
the  western  side  of  Cayuga  lake,  toward  a town  called 
Ithaca,  situated  at  the  southern  extremity  of  that  beau- 
tiful and  picturesque  inland  sea.  1 sent  my  servant  and 
baggage  to  wait  mv  arrival  in  New  York.  . I do  not  know 
the  precise  length  of  this  lake,  but  the  steam-boat  which 
plies  between  its  long  wooden  bridge  and  the  town  of 
Ithaca,  performs  a trip  of  forty  miles  ; how  far  it  extends 
above  the  bridge  I did  not  learn. 

The  approach  to  Ithaca  from  the  noithward  is  very 
beautiful:  the  foreground  is  undulating  and  fertile,  dis- 
playing a fine  alternation  of  wood  and  grain  ; below  is 
the  lake  stretched  between  bold  promontories  in  a gentle 
curve,  and  as  it  is  only  a mile  ora  mile  and  a half  broad, 
it  might  be  easily  imagined  to  be  a bend  of  some  mighty 
river.  Beyond  the  towm  to  the  south  and  east,  is  a fine 
range  of  hills,  whence  descends  a mountain  cataract, 
leaping  and  foaming  over  high  precipices,  looking  as  if  it 
would  disdain  the  efforts  of  man  and  destroy  his  works  ; 
yet,  ere  reaching  the  base  of  the  hill,  it  is  tamed,  impri- 
soned, and  tortured  by  dams,  cuts,  and  races  ; and  its  in- 
dignant waters,  still  frothed  and  yesty  from  their  wild 
mountain  sport,  are  made,  like  the  strong  Israelite  of  old, 


240 


RAILROAD  TO  OWEGO. 


to  turn  mill-wheels,  and  to  give  other  proofs  of  their 
strength  in  slavish  drudgery  for  the  tyrants  into  whose 
hands  they  have  fallen.  The  town  is  very  busy  and  stir- 
ring ; the  railroad  leading  southward,  and  the  steamer 
plying  to  the  north,  give  many  commercial  facilities; 
and  the  number  of  inhabitants  has  already  reached  six 
or  seven  thousand. 

I now  placed  myself  on  the  railroad  which  leads  to 
Owego,  a distance  of  about  thirty  miles.  Horse  power 
is  here  used,  and  the  road  is  none  of  the  best  ; in  some 
places  there  were  only  wooden  rails  for  the  wheel-track, 
in  others  the  horses  had  to  raise  their  feet  at  each  step 
over  the  logs  which  support  the  rails  ; however,  the  gra- 
ding, which  is  the  chief  difficulty,  is  overcome.  The 
route,  although  but  a poor  railroad  at  present,  is  never- 
theless an  evidence  of  incipient  improvement,  and  as 
such  is  commendable.  All  such  intentions  and  begin- 
nings should  be  encouraged  in  the  commercial  as  well  as 
in  the  moral  world  ; nor  do  I know  where  there  exists  a 
more  absurd  fallacy  than  in  the  vulgar  proverb  which 
says,  that  “ Hell  is  paved  with  good  inientions.”  This 
can  be  logically  and  simply  refuted  by  observing,  that  it 
is  a true,  but  only  a particular  proposition  ; that  some 
good  intentions  exist  which  are  not  followed  by  good  re- 
sult's in  conduct;  but  it  is  a true  and  a universal  propo- 
sition, that  all  virtuous  actions  are  the  offspring  of  good 
intentions.  These  sneers  at  good  resolutions  are  not 
confined  to  vulgar  proverbs — they  are  often  found  in 
graver  wiiters ; and  though,  in  consequence  of  human 
frailty,  they  may  be  sometimes  deserved,  the  general  de- 
duction appears  to  me  most  unphilosophical.  1 much 
prefer  the  sentiment  which  I remember  to  have  met  in 
the  works  of  one  of  our  standard  authors,  that  “good  in- 
tentions are  at  least  the  seed  of  good  actions,  and  it  is 
every  man’s  duty  to  sow  them.”* 

From  Owego  to  Easton  the  country  is  undulating, 
wild,  wooded,  and  t he  soil  light  and  poor.  A few  miles 
from  the  latter  town  the  road  passes  through  the  blue 
ridge  of  mountains  at  a point  called  the  Wind-Gap;  and 


Sir  W.  Temple’s  Essays. 


EASTON. 


241 


a most  noble  situation  it  is  for  a Temple  of  JEolus.  I 
know  not  the  exact  elevation,  but  it  is  very  high ; and  being 
the  only  gorge  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  wind  sweeps 
through  it  with  tremendous  violence.  As  a pass,  or 
line  of  communication  between  the  eastern  and  western 
country,  it  is  very  inferior  to  the  Water- Gap,  of  which  I 
made  mention  in  an  earlier  part  of  my  Journal. 

Easton  is  a flourishing  town,  situated  at  the  junction 
of  the  rivers  Lehigh  and  Delaware,  and  is  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal marts  for  coal  and  lumber.  The  former  is  brought 
down  to  it  (from  Maunch-Chunk,  a coal-bed  between 
forty  and  fifty  miles  up  the  river  Lehigh)  by  a canal,  and 
thence  is  conveyed  to  Philadelphia,  or  by  the  Morris  canal, 
to  New  York.  The  country  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
bourhood is  fertile  and  well  cultivated ; the  houses  and 
farm  buildings  are  neat  and  substantial  ; and  the  appear- 
ance of  the  crops,  especially  the  hay  and  the  Indian  corn, 
gave  evidence  of  the  industry  of  the  population,  which 
is  almost,  altogether  German.  I measured  accurately 
three  heads  of  Timothy  grass  ; two  of  which  were  half 
an  inch  less,  and  one  half  an  inch  more,  than  a foot  in 
length. 

It  would  kill  a grammatical  purist  to  spend  a week  in 
that  vicinity;  the  country  dialect  shames  all  the  patois 
of  Switzerland,  Naples,  Yorkshire,  or  Somerset..  I 
will  defy  either  a native  German  or  Englishman  to  un- 
derstand one  word  in  three,  until  his  ear  becomes  habi- 
tuated to  the  uncouth  sounds.  The  nearest  approach 
which  I can  make  to  a description  of  it,  would  be  a mix- 
ture in  the  following  proportions  — “ Take  of  the  Ger- 
man spoken  by  the  labourers  near  Baden,  one  half ; of 
bad  Dutch,  one  quarter;  and  of  Craven  Yorkshire,  one 
quarter:  mix  these  thoroughly  well,  and  let  the  nose 
have  its  due  share  in  the  pronunciation — then  you  have 
the  Easton  dialect.” 

On  Sunday  I attended  the  Episcopal  church.  It  is  a 
small  unpretending  edifice.  The  service  was  well  per- 
formed, and  the  organ  had  a very  sweet  tone ; the  sing- 
ing was  performed  chiefly  by  girls  and  children,  and 
these  were  accompanied  by  one  powerful  bass  voice ; 
the  effect  was  strange,  but  not  unpleasing. 

Vol.  II.— X. 


242 


BETHLEHEM. 


On  Monday  I hired  a horse,  and  cantered  away  into 
the  woods  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  Lehigh.  The 
shade  was  delightful,  and  sometimes  on  roads,  some- 
times on  the  turf,  in  those  large  white  oak  glades,  I gave 
the  rein  to  my  horse,  and  to  my  fancy,  and  went  on 
dreaming  and  galloping  till  I was  roused  by  finding  my- 
self among  houses  and  streets,  and  on  inquiry,  learnt 
that  I was  in  Bethlehem,  a Moravian  settlement  twelve 
miles  from  Easton.  Here  is  a very  good  school,  to 
which  young  people  are  sent  from  all  parts  of  the  Union. 
The  place  is  quiet,  and  the  people  are  remarkably  sober 
and  industrious.  Here  also  they  talk  intelligible  Ger- 
man ; indeed  many  are  from  the  “old  country.”  I met 
two  young  farmers  in  a cart,  and  from  their  answer  to 
my  salutation,  perceived  at  once  that  they  were  from 
Europe.  I asked  one  where  he  came  from,  and  he  told 
me  that  he  was  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Eisenach. 
When  he  learnt  that  I had  been  there,  and  I began  to 
talk  to  him  about  his  native  hills,  and  Fuldau,  and  the 
room  where  Luther  threw  the  inkstand  at  his  Satanic 
majesty’s  head,  the  poor  fellow  laughed  and  cried  with 
pleasure.  Six  years  had  passed  since  either  of  us  had 
been  at  that  spot ; but  they  were  for  the  time  as  six 
hours,  and  we  talked  of  it  with  fresh  and  lively  recollec- 
tions : then  grasping  each  other’s  hands  till  the  knuckles 
cracked,  we  parted,  probably  never  to  meet  again  in  this 
world!  I like  the  Germans;  they  have  more  feeling 
and  less  vanity,  in  their  nationality,  than  any  nation 
upon  earth. 

Leaving  Easton,  I crossed  New  Jersey  to  New 
Brunswick,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Raritan,  and  thence 
embarked  in  a steamer  for  New  York,  where  I arrived 
without  accident  or  adventure.  The  letters  which  await- 
ed me  at  the  post-office,  obliged  me  to  prepare  for  an 
early  departure  ; accordingly,  I secured  a birth  in  “ The 
Oxford,”  a magnificent  packet,  which  was  to  sail  in  a 
few  days  for  Liverpool,  and  I devoted  the  intervening 
time  to  the  necessary  preparations  for  the  voyage,  and  to 
Didding  farewell  to  those  of  my  American  friends  who 
were  in  the  city  and  in  its  neighbourhood.  This  last  w'as 
to  me  a sad,  not  a merely  ceremonious,  occupation ; for, 


CABIN  PARTY. 


243 


during  my  long  residence  in  the  United  States,  I had 
become  sufficiently  intimate  with  some  of  its  citizens, 
to  look  upon  them  with  the  warmest  regard.  I had  been 
treated  with  invariable  kindness,  and  I cannot  too  often 
repeat  my  firm  'conviction,  that  no  traveller  from  what- 
ever country  he  may  come,  will  meet  with  so  hospitable 
and  cordial  a reception  in  America  as  a British  gentleman; 
that  is,  if  he  be  a person  of  courteous  manners,  of 
liberal  mind,  and  disposed  to  appreciate  the  intentions 
of  those  who  offer  him  civility,  instead  of  sneering  at 
national  or  individual  peculiarities. 

It  was  with  many  mingled  feelings,  which  it  is  unne- 
cessary to  present  to  the  reader,  that  I stood  on  the  deck 
of  “The  Oxford,”  and  saw  the  shores  of  New  York 
receding  and  gradually  disappearing  from  my  view. — 
There  is  a kind  of  instinctive  sadness  which  oppresses 
us  when  we  give  a last  look  at  any  object  which  has 
long  been  familiar  to  us.  The  inquiry  forces  itself  upon 
the  mind,  “ Shall  I ever  see  that  object  again  ?”  and 
although  in  some  instances  health  and  hope  will  answer 
it  affirmatively,  and  in  others,  indifference  may  answer  it 
carelessly,  there  is  generally  a feeling,  or  a presentiment, 
more  or  less  connected  with  destiny  and  mortality,  that 
whispers  “ Never !” — that  low  ominous  whisper  sends  a 
sudden  chill  to  the  heart. 

If  such  gloomy  fancies  as  these  are  to  be  dispersed 
by  agreeable  company  and  cheerful  conversation,  they 
ought  not  to  have  hovered  long  over  “ The  Oxford,”  for 
the  party  in  the  cabin  seemed  disposed  to  please  and  to 
be  pleased.  Among  those  whose  gayety  and  abilities 
were  most  calculated  to  enliven  the  tedium  of  a long 
voyage,  were  the  Baron  Krudener,  the  Russian  minister 
to  the  United  States,  and  the  celebrated  comedian,  Hill. 
With  the  former  of  these  I had  long  been  acquainted; 
and,  although  labouring  under  the  disadvantage  of  ex- 
treme deafness,  his  conversation  is  a happy  union  of 
drollery,  sagacity,  and  acute  observation.  The  latter  is 
unequalled  in  the  fun,  mimic  power,  and  fidelity  with 
which  he  delineates  all  the  peculiarities  of  Yankee  man- 
ners and  dialect,  He  was  now  on  his  way  to  Europe, 
with  the  intention  of  representing  these  to  the  British 


244 


PROSPEROUS  VOYAGE. 


public ; and  if  his  talent  is  only  appreciated  by  those 
who  have  never  visited  New  England,  as  it  was  by  those 
gathered  round  the  cabin-table  of  “ The  Oxford,”  he 
will  reap  a rich  and  deserved  harvest  of  success.”* 

The  voyage  was  prosperous,  and  unremarked  by  any 
incident  worthy  of  record.  “ The  Oxford”  proved  her- 
self an  excellent  sailer  ; and  on  the  twenty-first  day  from 
our  embarkation,  we  found  ourselves  far  up  the  Western 
Channel,  the  headlands  of  Anglesea  were  passed,  and 
we  were  already  threading  our  way  between  the  buoys 
that  mark  the  entrance  into  Liverpool  harbour. 

How  many  and  conflicting  are  the  thoughts  which 
crowd  upon  the  returning  traveller,  when  coming  in 
sight  of  his  native  shores,  after  an  absence  of  several 
years  ! — What  a catalogue  of  births,  deaths,  and  mar- 
riages awaits  him  ! In  the  circle  of  society  wherein  he 
was  wont  to  move,  how  many  new  faces  may  he  expect 
to  see  ! — Fortunate  indeed  is  he  if  he  be  not  destined  to 
find  changes  that  must  wring  his  heart.  Nevertheless, 
in  approaching  home,  delightful  remembrances  of  the 
past,  and  sanguine  expectations  of  the  future,  triumph 
over  all  other  feelings.  Before  he  has  seen  the  face  of  a 
friend  or  relative,  he  receives  a kindly  greeting  from  the 
inanimate  but  well  remembered  objects  around,  and  with 
greatful  prescience,  reads  a welcome  in  the  hills,  the 
promontories,  and  smiling  valleys  of  his  father-land.f 

*Mr.  Hill's  reception,  both  in  Paris  and  in  London,  has  realized 
these  expectations. — 1839. 

t The  feelings  excited  by  the  first  view  of  home,  after  a long  absence, 
are  depicted  by  Catullus  with  such  exquisite  tenderness  of  expression, 
that  I cannot  deny  myself  the  pleasure  of  closing  my  Journal  with  his 
address  to  his  Sirinian  villa  : — 

“ Quam  telibenter,  quamque  Isetus  inviso  ! 

Yix  mi  ipse  credens,  Thyniam  et  Bithynos 
Liquisse  campos,  et  videre  me  in  tuto. 

O quid  solutis  est  beatius  curis  1 
Cum  mens  onusreponit,  ac  peregrino 
Lahore  fessi,  venimus  ad  Larem  nostrum, 

Desideratoque  acquiescimus  lecto. 

Hoc  est,  quod  unumest  pro  laboribus  tantis.’* 


245 


CONCLUDING  ADDRESS 

TO  THE  READER. 


Now,  gentle  reader,  after  having  been  favoured  with 
your  company  throughout  so  long  (and  I fear  to  you,  so 
wearisome)  a journey,  methinks  it  would  be  showing  you 
but  small  courtesy,  were  I to  conclude  this  narrative  with- 
out addressing  to  you  a few  words  of  parting  kindness. 
I feel  that  I owe  you  many  apologies  for  frequent  inter- 
ruptions and  digressions  ; but  for  these,  I doubt  not,  I 
shall  obtain  your  pardon.  In  perusing  a narrative,  you 
must  be  content  to  travel  with  its  author,  and  you  must 
not  complain  if  he  sometimes  moves  on  when  you  wish 
to  pause,  or  if  he  dwells  for  some  time  upon  a spot  or  a 
scene  from  which  you  desire  to  escape  : neither  should 
you  be  too  severe  with  him  even  if  he  proves  some- 
times a dull  or  a tedious  companion ; “ aliquando 

bonus  dormitat  Homerus  and  it  is  impossible  that  a 
Journal  can  be  a faithful  transcript  of  a traveller’s  life, 
or  of  the  author’s  mind,  if  it  attempt  either  to  amuse  you 
with  perpetual  sallies  of  wit,  or  to  excite  your  interest 
by  an  uninterrupted  succession  “ of  moving  accidents 
by  flood  and  field.”  If  you,  whose  eye  now  rests  upon 
this  page,  are  a Briton  and  a fellow-countryman,  it  is  not 
improbable  that  you  may  have  missed,  in  these  volumes, 
the  satirical  observations  on  American  peculiarities  of 
manner,  character  and  language,  of  which  you  have  been 
furnished  with  so  abundant  a supply  by  other  writers, 
and  from  which  you  had  expected  to  derive  no  little 
amusement.  If  such  be  the  case,  I regret  your  disap- 
pointment ; but  at  the  same  time,  I entreat  you  to  remem- 
ber, that  the  parable  of  the  mote  and  the  beam  is  of  na- 
tional as  well  as  of  individual  applicability,  and  that  nei- 


246 


CONCLUSION. 


ther  our  own  manners  nor  morals  are  so  faultless  as  to 
justify  our  indulging  in  a tone  of  censure,  sarcasm,  or 
satire,  upon  those  of  the  Americans.  I would  remind 
you  that  many  of  the  peculiar  characteristics  which  we 
sometimes  criticise  so  severely  in  them,  are  the  very  same 
traits  which  French,  German,  and  other  European  wri- 
ters have  observed  as  marking  our  own  national  charac- 
ter. Lastly,  I would  appeal  to  yet  higher  feelings  than 
a mere  sense  of  justice,  and  would  recall  to  your  recol- 
lection, that,  although  separated  by  political  accidents 
and  by  the  Atlantic,  this  people  is  connected  with  us  by 
a thousand  ties  which  ages  cannot  obliterate,  and  which 
it  is  unnatural  to  sever  now  while  they  are  yet  fresh  and 
vigorous.  Whether  we  view  the  commercial  enterprise 
of  America,  or  her  language,  her  love  of  freedom,  or  her 
parochial,  legal,  or  civil  institutions,  she  bears  indelible 
marks  of  her  origin  ; she  is,  and  must  continue,  the 
mighty  daughter  of  a mighty  parent ; and  although  eman- 
cipated from  maternal  control,  the  affinity  of  race  re- 
mains unaltered  : her  disgrace  must  dishonour  their  com- 
mon ancestry,  and  her  greatness  and  renown  should  gra- 
tify the  paternal  pride  of  Britain. 

In  bidding  you,  American  reader,  farewell,  I would 
induce  you  by  every  means  in  my  power  to  cherish  and 
reciprocate  the  sentiments  above  recommended ; to  re- 
member that  your  literature  is  formed  upon  English 
models,  your  jurisprudence  upon  English  law,  and  that 
the  very  love  of  freedom  and  independence  which  moved 
you  to  cast  off  the  dominion  of  England,  was  imbibed 
by  your  first  founders  from  the  breasts  of  English  mo- 
thers. Let  not  sneers,  nor  petty  interests,  nor  petty  jea- 
lousies sever  these  ties  of  ancient  kindred,  but  rather  let 
both  nations  endeavour  with  a noble  emulation  to  show 
to  the  world,  each  under  her  own  institutions,  an  exam- 
ple of  every  public  and  private  virtue.  Would  that  I 
could  flatter  myself  with  having  contributed  my  mite  to- 
wards the  attainment  of  this  desirable  object.  At  least, 
my  American  brethren,  you  will  do  me  the  justice  to 
own,  that  what  I have  written  concerning  your  country 
has  been  written  in  this  spirit.  I may  have  been  mista- 
ken in  many  of  my  views,  and  may  have  fallen  into  nu- 


CONCLUSION. 


247 


merous  errors,  to  which  all  travellers  are  more  or  less 
liable  ; my  pen  may  probably,  in  some  instances,  have 
been  guided  by  prejudice,  of  which  I was  myself  uncon- 
scious. I know  not  whether  I shall  ever  return  to  your 
shores,  where  I have  spent  some  of  the  happiest  hours 
of  my  life  ; but,  if  I am  destined  to  revisit  you,  I shall 
come  in  the  confidence  of  grasping  more  than  one  friendly 
hand,  and  in  the  consciousness  of  having,  in  these  vo- 
lumes, neither  stooped  to  flatter  you,  nor  “set  down  aught 
in  malice.”  Under  the  influence  of  these  sentiments,  I 
bid  you,  gentle  Reader, — Farewell. 


the  END. 


* 


